Lopamudra Nayak.

Trade and Skill Development Capacity Building for Orissa Appliqu Crafters.

Introduction: In Orissa handicraft is one of the important sectors after agriculture. They are the major providers of employment in the non-farm sector. Appliqu craft is one of the most popular handicrafts of Orissa and have good market potential in the national and international markets, Providing employment to many families. Appliqu craft units are mainly concentrated in Puri and Khurda districts of Orissa. The main center of production is Pipili ,a small town in Khurda around 20km from Bhubaneswar, the state capital. The style, design and intricate workmanship of this crafts have endowed them with a unique charm, making them stunning in their simplicity and beauty. This art has become one of the most sought after network of Orissa. Appliqu work in Orissa is originated as a temple art, and culturally associated with Lord Jagannath temple of Puri. Coloured cloth, after being cut and shaped into the stylized forms of flora and fauna as well as few mythological figures is stitched on to a cloth piece designed as a wall hanging, garden or beach umbrella, a lamp shade, shopping bags and other utility items and more recently on saris, dress materials and household linens. Tiny mirrors in a whole range of geometrical shapes and designs are then encapsulated by thread embroidery to create a striking work of art. Metal wires and beads are also used for further embellishment. The common motifs used in the art are elephant, parrot, peacock, ducks, creepers, trees, flower like lotus, jasmine, half moon, the sun and rahu (a mythical demon who devours sun). Just as there a few fixed motifs, only a limited number of colors are used in the traditional appliqu craft. These are green, red, blue, ochre and black. Mohanty, A. (2008) stated that the creative urge of the craftsmen however are released in the endlessly various combinations of motifs as well in the mixing of these limited colors while there has been very little change in the use of motifs, there has been a trend towards greater experimentation in color combinations. The making process and motifs adopted by Orissa appliqu is somewhat different from that of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Bihar where this craft is practiced.

Socio-economic background of applique workers: A study conducted by Jena,S.K. and Mahapatra, H. (2009) showed that the majority of the workers employed in this craft are female (70%). Illiteracy and low level of education is a common feature among the craft workers. This craft is traditionally done by a cast of tailors, known as Darjis from both the muslim and hindu community. Most of the workers in the appliqu unit claimed to have learned this craft on a hereditary basis which reflects the rich cultural heritage of the state.Low income and poverty are the perennial features of the craft workers households which are responsible for the low level of

motivation amount the workers. The family need and necessities compel children to join the craft units as a child labourer. Though female artisans are predominated in this craft, the appliqu unit owners are predominantly males. Today the empowerment of women, being one of the central issue in the process of development of countries all over the world, effort is needed to assist the women to think big and to take control of this arena. More women should be inspired to enter the craft trade making them self sufficient.

Problems existed in Applique Craft Units of Orissa: Applique craft units has many problems.Lack of effective organization. Unorganized investment pattern and lack of regular investor. Different enterprises are various in sizes that many enterprises within the cluster are smallscaled which is not favourable for large-scale production and leads to poor market competitiveness and low profitability. There are scarce products with high-tech and high added value because of low level of science and technology. Improper pricing of finished products. No market brand recognition limited the profit pace. Lack of proper marketing channels. Raw materials are procured from suppliers who are outside the craft concentration areas, which lead to financial strain on enterprises. Lack of quality raw materials leads to a large-scale rejection. The governments guidance did not go far enough in terms of service and marketing promotions of the craft; no forming of the overall planning concept of the craft units; a strong lack of scientific guidance mechanisms; under developed infrastructure and so on. Lack of use of information technology.

Institution role in skill development capacity building: The institutions should focus on the possibility of designing for women a basic skill training in this crafts and trade. For effectiveness of the training on skill and design improvements, there is a need for better planning and scheduling the training programs based on technical skills, manufacturing technology, design, product development including quality control and standards, packaging and marketing,

advertising intellectual property rights, awareness about eco-friendly products and processes, knowledge about Govt. policy & legislation. Apart from this training effort should also be given on occupational health and safety, general health, hygiene and nutrition, organizational behavior and financial security. The following outcomes is anticipated.

1. The crafts workers will benefit from outside input of new knowledge, trends and technical advice on production and management of craft enterprise. 2. These will be a change in the mindset of Appliqu Crafts workers and enterprisers who are resistant to change due to the lack of exposure to innovative ideas. 3. Increased demand and increased marketing net work for Orissa Appliqu Craft and increased income. 4. Moving towards higher-value added products. 5. Penetration of traditional and new markets by introducing a more aggressive marketing strategy.

Development and upgradation of skills: A. Design Development: Apart from traditional pattern, efforts should be made to introduce innovative designs with an assortment of colors in to the craft. Institution should take an initiative to provide the following facilities. i. Access to different national and international design, books of historical, traditional,and contemporary origin. ii. Visit to art gallery, craft museum etc. iii. CAD facility-Design development and training will be given to crafters. iv. To foster cultural exchange through exhibitions, conferences, international visits by the craft people for the purpose of study, lectures and workshops. B. Formal and Informal Education Program: Formal training in craft as well as in marketing, quality control, advertising etc. is necessary to become a successful entrepreneur. Apart from this as a low level of education is prevalent amongst craft artisans. Institutions should open informal education centre to impart them education in their free time. C. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT: Institution should i. Encourage and co-ordinated research and study in the field of innovative designs, practices and traditional use of natural fibres and dyes in the craft. The publication of the same should be made through institutions and craft expert bodies.

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Branding: Needs to change image. Business Plan: Restructuring from non-profit to profitable business. Ideas on extra ways of increasing profits. Marketing Awareness: Presentation of product Improve shop displays. Labeling Packaging-added value-An eco-friendly bag with paper, jute, sisal fibre Quality Control: Selection of improved products Strategies, guidelines Pricing: Consistency How to value Tools and Supplies: Access to good quality and modern stitching and cutting machine tools and accessories. Training to learn how to use latest technologies Guidance on applying for loan to purchase start up equipment. Copyright: Ways to discourage copycatting each others ideas and designs. Information on copyright laws and how to enforce them.

Training on how to boost marketing and export: Special attention should be given on the training of craft persons to increase awareness on the market networking. Structures at national level as well as on export-some of the guidelines are as follows. Arrangement of Craft fairs, exhibitions Linking tourism with craft village.

Reorientation of products: Using modern technology improved tools and techniques, more sophisticated packaging materials and techniques are some of the ways to make this orissan appliqu craft more eye catching and popular. Professionalism:

This would include the total quality management, being conversant and updated with the global designs, color trends, environmental concerns, packaging, publicity through the internet, preparation of attractive leveling and catalogues advertisement materials. Conclusion: Appliqu craft constitute an integral part of Orissa. This craft industry have the potential to provide gainful employment and also requires low capital investment and other resources. Moreover, women play an essential role in this craft. Interpersonal training instead of institutional training equips the craft workers with only craft related knowledge whereas, they lack awareness in marketing, advertising, technology, government policy and legislation, quality process etc. Thus, there is an urgent need for a synergy between the craft units and the educational institutions to come together to offer trade and skill development courses in the interest of rapid economic development of the state.

References: 1. Jena, S. K. 2009, Sustainable livelihood for informal workers- a case study of appliqu workers of Orissa, July, Orissa Review. 2. Mohanty, A. 2008, Pipili as a rural tourist destination, January, Orissa Review. 3. Mohapatra, R. C., 2005, The changing patterns in the appliqu craft of Pipili, December, Orissa Review. 4. Report of the concurrent evaluation study of RLTAP in KBK districts- Developments of Handicrafts and KVI, NABCONS, Orissa. 5. Rao, Veena. 2010, Distance Education for the Garment Industry in India, Asian Journal of Distance Education, Vol. 8, no.1, pp.53-62.