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J u n e - J u l y 2 00 9

Our Bi-Monthly Cheese Newsletter


MY 2009 USA CHEESE COMPETITION
A DV E N T U R E
When I discovered that the The judges are set-up at ta-
USA Cheese competition was bles. There are two judges at
being held at Lambeau Field each table and a couple of
• JUNE IS DAIRY this year, and that it was open volunteers who assist with
MONTH to the public, I knew that I keeping the judging process
had to go. So I invited my moving. What was very unique
dear friend Magee, an awe- was that we were able to be
Be sure to visit your some personal chef, to join right there with the judges as
nearest Balistreri me on the adventure. She they were judging the cheeses.
and I jumped into the car and We were able to watch, take
Sendik’s. Each away we went. pictures, ask questions and I and their assistants. One of
location will be Not being from Wisconsin even got to taste a cheese the tables of judges even let
sample with two judges whom me try the cheese that they
celebrating, watch for nor (I’m sorry to say) a foot-
were judging “seasoned were currently judging and give
ball fan, I had never visited
special events and the shrine before. This place cheeses” . my two cents!! Wow!! Not that
they took my opinion seri-
demo’s! is huge and, on a Tuesday Each cheesemaker sent his
ously….I’m sure...but it cer-
afternoon, not very busy. We or her cheese to Lambeau
did, however, find a small Field along with paperwork (of tainly was fun.
….NEWS FLASH…. cluster of parked cars and course!) Each sample of Overall, it was a great day and
made our way up to the grand cheese was then assigned a if you ever have the opportu-
….NEWS FLASH…. entrance. number and a category (i.e.
parmesan). This was to keep
nity to attend a Cheese Judg-
Now this is where expecta- ing….go for it.
Good news for those tions met with reality! I ex- the judges from knowing one
who enjoy a nice piece pected to walk into a busy cheesemaker from another.
cheese show of sorts, with Also the judges are not allowed
of affordable Roquefort. to discus the cheese that they
the cheesemakers all there
The USA government talking cheese and business. are judging with each other.
has removed the man- I expected to be able to try all Maggie and I arrived just as
datory 300% Tax that of their amazing cheeses and the Satori Sarvecheeo was
be able to smooze with the being judged. We had no clue
President Bush placed best of the cheese world. that it was going to be named
on Roquefort before Then I met reality! This is a the 2009 USA Winner! We
also got to talk to the judges
leaving office. very quiet and serious event.

CUSTOMER RECIPE:
“JANE’S DANGEROUSLY DELICIOUS
BRIE”
Be sure to visit Wisconsin’s
Milk Marketing Board at 1 Wheel Brie; remove rind ( I used 6 Cloves of Garlic seeded crackers.
www.eatwisconsincheese.com Crave Brothers Petit Frere) Minced and Mashed
for amazing recipes and 2 TBL Fresh Chopped Parsley 1 tsp Dried Basil We did a demo with
information about Wisconsin 2 TBL Fresh Grated Parmesan, or this recipe over Memo-
Cheeses. They have amazing other type of grated Italian Trim rind from Brie. Mix rial Day at German-
ideas, events and stories 4 Sundried Tomatoes packed in remaining ingredients town and it was a big
about our Artisanal oil, drained and minced (Jane said and slather on brie. hit!
Cheesemakers! she added more….so did I) ( or...As Jane
1 TBL Oil from the Tomatoes (I says…”Slather directly on Thanks Jane!
added more here too) thighs”) Serve with fancy,
the Curd Page 2

SUMMER ENTERTAINING
BRINGING CHEESE AND WINE TOGETHER
Cheese and Wine go together as naturally as
second to Riesling as an overall cheese match. vors: The idea of opposites attracting is
soap and water! When matching them together
Creamy cheeses, such as double or triple- not a far-flung idea when applied to
the number one rule is …...have fun! However
crèmes linger in the mouth long after the bulk of cheese and wine pairing. Much of the
the socialites of our world have created 10 Ba-
the cheese has made it’s way down. The cream way we put food and wine together is
sic Guidelines and I find they are helpful. So
gives real definition to the term “mouthfeel.” based on this idea. Enjoying sweet and
here it goes and I hope that you find it helpful
So… what could be better than taking advantage salty or sweet and savory flavors to-
also. gether is a fun-damental physiological
of those tiny bubbles to freshen up the mouth?
#1: Pair Texture of Cheese with Wine. The tex- Not only is the combination refreshing, the earthy pleasure, which is why cheese and wine
ture of the cheese is the most important charac- flavors in the wine are favorably accentuated by make a great pair.
teristic when choosing a wine to serve it with. By
the sweet, fruity cheese. #9: Pair Dessert Wines with Cheese:
noting the texture you will be able to also have
Dessert wines are different than sparkling The term “dessert wine” always means
an idea of the cheese flavor. You will want to
wines. Some have similar agreeable efferves- sweet, but how sweet varies. One way
choose a wine with a similar “weight” to the
cence, however. They are sweet and dry but the to gauge the sweetness of a dessert
cheese. wine is to look at the percentage of
effervescence works the same way with blues or
#2: Pair light cheeses with white wines. Again residual sugar in the wine. The higher
brie’s.
matching the texture of the cheese with the the percentage of residual sugar the
wine. A light cheese is usually one that is fresh, #6: Pair Red Wines with (Almost) Anything. White
sweeter the wine.
or semi-soft. These are cheeses that are not wines do pair with cheese easier than red wines.
But red wine will often seem bitter when sipped As a guide, the primary flavor char-
aged for very long, if at all, and do not have the
with many cheeses, because the tannins in Red acteristics of various dessert wines
complex flavor as older, heavier cheeses. include: dried fruit ( raisin, apricot, fig,
wine are exacerbated by salt. Many cheeses
#3: Pair White Wines With Cheese. Many be- have a good amount of salt, which brings out the prune), chocolate, coffee, honey, min-
lieve that only red wines should be served with eral, caramel, orange, toffee and nuts.
tannins in the wine.
cheese. However, white wines are less com-
Generally, the lighter and fruitier the red wine, 10: Pair Aged, Mild Cheeses with Older,
plex in nature, and simply more “cheese
the easier it will be to pair with the right cheese. Milder Wines: The idea of an “aged
friendly.” Many white wines have more pro-
Fruity & light-bodied wines, Sangiovese for exam- mild cheese” may not seem possible,
nounced acidity. This quality makes them more
ple, are very nice with mozzarella. The flip side is since we think cheese becomes
compatible with high-acid cheeses, including
that a wine that is too light may simply get lost stronger with age. Brie for example
fresh and slightly aged goat cheese. In addition,
with a cheese that is substantially more flavorful becomes stronger with age. However
white wines are often characterized by butteri-
than the wine. Gruyere, on the other hand, might be
ness and fruit. A buttery quality in wine makes aged a year or more, yet it will never
a natural affinity with many cheeses, especially Hard cheeses, such as an aged Gouda, with
become particularly strong as it ages.
soft-ripened cheeses. their salty yet sweet flavors go surprisingly well
with many red wines. Remembering that big As cheese and wine mellow, they as-
#4: Pair Fruitier-Style Wines with Cheese. This
tannins will be exacerbated by excess salt, we sume identities different from those
goes for both red and white wines. The best
would suggest an older vintage they had when they were younger.
example lies in one grape alone: Riesling. Ries-
Their vibrant youth is replaced by tran-
ling is a fruity grape and is high in acid. Few #7: Pair Cheese and Wines with Comparable quility, forward fruit retreats in the
grapes posses this balance. Flavors. This is common advice about food and background, and a once astringent
#5 Pair Sparkling Wines with Blue, Creamy, and wine pairing, and it works for cheese and wine wine is now suave. With certain
Salty Cheeses. Sparkling wine goes well with too. Identify the dominant flavors in the cheese cheeses extended time allows them to
blue cheese because of the compatibility of you’re eating and seek out a wine or wines that become sweet, mellow, and sometimes
flavors. The bubbles also make sparkling wines share a similar flavor profile. a little grainy. Together, older cheeses
equally good companions with creamy and salty #8 Pair Cheeses and Wines with “Opposite” Fla- and wines find companionship because
cheeses. Sparkling wine is, in fact, probably neither is competing with the other.

WATERMELON-FETA SALAD In a small bowl, whisk together the oil, vinegar


and mint. Set aside.
2 Tbl Olive Oil
With a sharp knife cut the wedge of Water-
1 Tbl plus 1tsp of Champagne Vine-
melon in half lengthwise. Cut the fruit away
gar (or White Vinegar) from the rind. Then cut the fruit into 3/4 inch
2 Tbl julienned fresh Mint cubes.
One 3lb Wedge Watermelon, seed-
less In a large bowl, toss watermelon together with
1 cup Red and Green Grapes, halved grapes and cheese. When ready to serve, toss
3/4 Cup Feta, Crumbled with the dressing and nuts.
1/4 cup Pine Nuts, lightly toasted
the Curd 400 degree oven.
Cut crust off each slice of bread.
Then cut slices in half, then
each half in half; creating trian-
I S AY F O N T I N A , YO U S AY F O N T I N E L L A . . . W H AT gles. Place slices on baking
IS THE DIFFERENCE? sheet and brush both sides with
olive oil, using approx. one half
The names are so simi- or even sometimes called cooking cheese. This is a of the oil. Bake in oven 4-5 min
lar and they are both Fontal is produced in North- cheese that you can serve as a until golden brown.
white, but that is pretty ern Italy. This cheese is desert cheese with fruit at the To build 16 mini Tramezzini’s:
much where their simi- described as mildly fruity end of the meal or melted in a Start with 1 triangle, top with a
larities end. and nutty in flavor and wide variety of Italian dishes or slice of cheese, slice of tomato
Danish Fontina (fawn- aroma. fondues. and a leaf of basil; top with a
TEE-nah) is a semi-soft, Steven Jenkins, author of “TRAMEZZINI” second piece of bread and re-
smooth textured, par- “The Cheese Primer” (the The Elegant Italian Sandwich peat cheese, tomato, basil then
tially skimmed cow’s cheesemonger’s bible) de- top with a 3rd piece of bread.
12 slices of good quality white
milk cheese with a scribes this cheese as Place sandwiches on baking
“pleasant but bland fla- “another of the perfect any- bread sheet. Drizzle with remaining
vor”. It does melt nicely time cheeses.” This is one 3 TBL Extra Virgin Olive Oil olive oil on top. Bake for 10-15
and I do use it in many of his favorites. He recom- 1/2lb Fontinella, Fontina or min until cheese begins to melt.
casseroles or fondue's. mends it for lunch with ham, Mozzarella, Swiss, Gueryur, etc.
Because of it’s texture it salami (dry Italian I’m sure), Your choice.
is used as a cooking or pate, some bread, fruit TEN BASIC
Cherry or Grape Tomatoes,
cheese. and a glass of wine. thinly sliced. GUIDELINES
Fontinella or Fontella, Fontinella is also a great 1/2 cup fresh Basil
1. Pair textures of cheese
2 TBL Fresh Parmesan (opt.)
with wine.

APRICOT COINS 2. Pair light cheeses with


4 ounces Fresh Goat white wines.
Cheese
2 tsp Milk, more if needed 3. Pair white wine with
BLUE CHEESE– STUFFED DATES
40 Dried Apricots, prefera- cheese
2 ounces Creamy Blue Cheese at Room Temp
bly Turkish
24 Dried Dates, pitted and cut in half lengthwise
2 tsp Honey 4. Pair fruitier-style wines
24 Blanched Almonds
1 Tbl finely chopped Fresh with cheese.
Cayenne Pepper
Thyme (or 1 1/2 tsp dried)
Cream cheese in a bowl with a hand mixer or wooden spoon. You
40 Candied Walnut Halves may add a touch of milk of cheese is crumbly. Set aside 5. Pair sparkling wines
Place the dates on a platter. Using a knife, spread approx 1 tsp of with blue, creamy, and
Using a mixer: Combine cheese on the cut side of the date. Top with 1 Almond. Sprinkle salty cheese.
Cheese and milk. Using with a dash of Cayenne pepper and serve.
the Paddle attachment, 6. Pair red wines with
whip the cheese for at MASCARPONE CREAMS (almost) anything
least 5 min, or until it is Serves 4
very smooth and creamy. 4 oz Amaretto Cookies, crushed 7. Pair cheeses and wines
If the cheese is still crum- 4 Tbl Amaretto or Maraschino
bly, add more Milk 1/2 tsp with comparable flavors
4 Eggs, separated
at a time.
1/4 cup Superfine Sugar 8. Pair cheeses and wines
1cup Mascarpone with “opposite” flavors
Assembly: Spread 1/8 tsp
Toasted Slivered Almonds, to decorate
of cheese on each Apricot.
Put the Amaretto crumbs in a bowl. Add amaretto and set aside to 9. Pair dessert wines with
Drizzle a little Honey over
soak. Beat egg yolks with the sugar in a separate bowl until pale and
the cheese and top with a cheese
thick. Fold in the mascarpone and soaked amaretto crumbs.
light sprinkling of thyme.
Whisk the egg whites in a separate bowl until stiff peaks form, then
Place a walnut on top. Ar- 10. Pair aged, mild cheeses
gently fold into the cheese mixture. Divide into 4 serving dishes and
range on a platter and
chill in frig for 1-2 hours. Sprinkle with slivered Almonds. with older, milder
serve.
wines.
BAKED POTATO SALAD WITH handle, quarter or cut into large
chunks and place in a large mix-
WISCONSIN AGED CHEDDAR ing bowl. Add bacon (reserving
1/3 cup ) sour cream, green
Chef Kent Rathbun onions and cheddar cheese.
Season with remaining salt and
pepper. Fold all ingredients care-
2 lb Red Potatoes, washed fully, being careful to leave the
2 Tbl Canola Oil potatoes chunky. Scatter with
reserved bacon on top. Best
4 tsp Sea Salt, divided
served warm.
8oz (1/2lb) Smoked Bacon, diced and cooked
crisp Preheat oven to 375°F. Sauté onion in oil
WISCONSIN FONTINA-STUFFED
1 cup Sour Cream until soft, 3 to 4 min. In medium bowl, toss
PRETZEL BREAD
4 Green Onions, thinly sliced sautéed onions with peppers, parsley,
thyme, Fontina cheese and ham. Season
2 cups (8oz) Wisconsin Aged Cheddar, shred- with salt and pepper.
1/2 cup yellow Onion, julienned
ded To hollow pretzel rolls, cut off one end
1 tsp Olive Oil
1 tsp freshly ground pepper. and set aside. Using a thin bladed knife,
1/3 cup Roasted Red Bell Pep- gently cut the center out of each bread,
pers, cut into 1/2 inch slices leaving 3/8 inch around the edge. Use a
Preheat oven 350: toss potatoes with oil and small spoon to scrape out inside bread and
2 tsp of salt. Place on baking sheet and bake 2 tsp Fresh Parsley
discard (I save for crotons) Stuff 1/4 filling
until tender, about 20 to 30 min. Meanwhile, 2 tsp fresh thyme, chopped mixture into the pretzel breads by using the
fry bacon until crisp. Drain on paper towel. Set 2 cups Fontina Shredded end of a wooden spoon to gently push fill-
aside. 1 cup smoked Baked Ham, ing into bread. Replace cut-off end, and
wrap each bread with foil, leaving open on
When potatoes are baked and cool enough to diced top. Placed stuffed breads on baking
Salt and Pepper to taste sheet. Bake 10-15 min, until bread is crisp
4-6inch Pretzel Rolls And filling is warm. Slice and Serve.
Serves 4

T H E H I S T O RY O F A P R O N S , AUTHOR UNKNOWN

I don’t think our kids know what an Chips and kindling wood were (this is my part…) includ-
apron is! The principle use of brought into the kitchen in that ing wrapping it around
Grandma’s/Nana’s apron was to protect apron. me with lots of kisses
the dress underneath, because she only From the garden, it carried all and hugs! Nobody was
had a few, it was easier to wash aprons sorts of vegetables. After the peas better than Grandma
than dresses and they used less mate- had been shelled, it carried out the and I loved her aprons.
rial. But along with that, it served as a hulls.
pot holder for removing hot pans from
In the Autumn...the apron was
the oven. used to bring in apples that had
It was wonderful for drying children’s fallen off the trees.
tears...and occasionally was even used
When unexpected company drove
for cleaning dirty ears. up the road… it was surprising how
From the chicken coop, the apron was much furniture that old apron could
used for carrying the eggs, fussy chicks dust in a matter of seconds.
and sometimes half hatched eggs to be
When dinner was ready, Grandma
finished in the warming oven. walked out onto the porch, waved
When company came those aprons her apron….and the men knew it
were ideal hiding places for shy kids. was time to come in from the pad-
And when the weather was cold, docks to dinner.
Grandma wrapped it around her arms. It will be a long time before some-
Those big old aprons wiped many a per- one invents something that
spiring brow…. Bent over the wood stove. will….replace that ‘old time apron’
that served so many purposes….

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