Sawdust

ABoLTT THISISsuE.We have tried to make it a tradition to devote one issue of Wood,- especially as DonaldB. Peschke smith to small projects Christmas nears. The challengeis to come TedKralicek up with ideas that make nice gift,s, yet are fun to build too. Douglas L. Hicks The projects I like best are those that Douglas M. Lidster offer a challenge I haven't tried before. KentA. Buckton SinceI'm not a skilled (or foequent)turner, KenMunkel the ornamentsin this issue caught my eye immediately. As soon as Ken (our project DavidKreyling designer)showedme his prototypes, I was CaryChristensen in front ofthe lathe, ready to try my hand Rod Stoakes at them. ChrisGlowacki It was fiustrating at first. My hands did SandyBaum,Mgr. not follow the curves and shapes I saw in JackieStroud my mind's eye. But that changed faster Pat Koob than I thought it would. In short order, I LisaThompson was cranking out oraaments,and having a LeslieAnn Gearhart great time. I didn't stop there. Three of the ornaKenMiner ments have a little car"vingadded. Again, CherylScott with a little practice I was chipping away JeanCarey and thrilled with the senseof instant accomplishment. ArchieKrause In both cases,I can't professto be anywhere close to an expert. But I had fun, The WoodsmithStore and the finished ornaments will make great gift,s. PRoJEcr SLTPPLIES. A year ago, we started a new ser"vice. We offered a kit of parts for the classic roadster shown in Woodsmith No. 51. When that issue came out, I wasn't swe what the reaction would be to this new ser"vice. Up until then, we listed a number of (ISSN0164-41'14) WOODSMITH is pub- mail-order sources for the hardware and (February lished bimonthly April, Au- various parts neededto build the projects June, gust, October, December) by Woodsmith in Woodsmith. (This information is shown Pubfishing Co., 22O0Grand Ave., Des in Sources,pageTl ofevery issue.)But we ran into two problems. Moines,lA50312. First, we couldn't find mail-order WondlsrniUt is a registeredtrademarkof sourcesfor some of the parts needed for Woodsmith Publishing Co. 1988 Publishing some of the projects (like a small piece of @Copyright byWoodsmith Plexiglas neededfor the roadster). Reserved. Co.All Rights Subscriptions: Oneyear(6issues)$12.95, The other problem was more serious.A (12issues) we listed went out of TwoYears Canada and few of the companies $22.95. Foreign: add $2 per year,U.S.fundsonly. businessor stopped carrying the products Single copyprice, we had listed. $3.50. Second Class Postage Paid at Des We thought the best way to solve both problems was to offer the supplies directly Moines, lowa. Postmaster: Send change of addressto through Woodsmith. Woodsmith, Box491,Mt.Monis, lL 61054. Sincethen, we have had thousands ofreSUBSCRIPTION QUESTIONS? Call toll quests for project supplies.To help firlfill (lllinois free800-2135-0715 residents call800- all those requests, Leslie Gearhart has 892-0753). Hours:7:30 AM to 8:30 PM, joined us. Leslie has done a remarkable job of tracking down sourcesand ordering Central Time, weekdays only. BACKISSUES: Fora freebooklet describ- the products we needed. ingaff ofthebackissues, send loV1/oodsmith, In addition to getting the supplies 2200Grand Ave., DesMoines, lA 50312. needed for the projects in the past eight SAMPLECOPY: Wewillsend afreesample issues, she has been working to find the copyof Woodsmith to anyone. Justsendus hardware for a few of the older projects. his/hernameandaddress. We have added hardware kits for three of these older projects. (For more on this. st t. Soutces,page 24, and the Project Supplies listings on the protective cover.) 8m NIJMBER. In the past we have onll' accepted orders by mail for the project sup plies and back issues.Now we have an 8fi) (toll free) phone number to accept Masler Card and Visa orders. Ifyou would like to order any ofthe back issues or project supplies,just give us a call at 8fi)-444-7fi)2.Jackie. Lisa, or Pat will be happy to take your order. However, ordering by phone is only available8:30to 4:30 Central Time, Monday through Friday. FULFTLLMENT sERvrcES. For the past ten years we handled all of the subscription orders here at Woodsmith. But the circulation has grown so much that it was taxing our ability to handle it efficiently. This past summer we begantalking to a subscription fulfillment company, Kable News of Mount Morris, IL. The folks there have a very professionalorganization,yet they also offer personal service and have been delightful to work with. In short, Kable News is now handling all of our subscription and renewal requests.(We still processthe back issueand project supplies orders.) If you have a question about your subscription (or re(In newal),you cancallthem at 800435-0715 Illinois, 800-892-0753). Just tell them you want informafion about Woodsmith, and, they'll get you to the right person. NEw FACES. As we beganthe searchfor another editor to help with the writing choresfor Woodsnith, it becameclear that we were looking for someonewith a particular mix of talents. We neededsomeone who loved woodworking, knew how to do technicalwriting, and could work comfortably on a variety of computers.(AIl of the writing is done on computers.) We found Kent Bucli;ton.In addition to being an avid woodworker, Kent has the writing skills we were looking for. Over the past 10years, Kent has producedrnany technical publicationson subjects ranging foom computer software to diesel engines. Kent adapted quickly to our mix of woodworking and writing. His first morning here, we put him right to work on a project for the next issue. He had a quick introduction to the shop (rvhere he built the project). By the next day he wa^s back in front of a computer, writing the article. It's good to have Kent here. I'm sule it will help speed things along in our quest to get back on schedule and stal'there. NEXTMAILINC.The next issueof Woodsmith will be mailed durins the week of December26. 1988.

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MOTDING CLAMPINGROMAN OGEE I made a wooden chisel rack with "ears" In WoodsmithNo. 57 there were plans for on both ends to hang up on the pegboard a wall mirror that had Roman ogee moldover my bench, but the wood rack was ing around the inside. You mentionedthat shaky and wobbly when it was fit over a the molding profile makes it almost imcouple of pegboard hooks. Whenever I possibleto clamp the moldings in place so pulled out a chisel, the rack ancl all the you held eachpiece with your fingers until other chisels wanted to come with it. I the glue grabbed. knew I could design a sturdier rack. I discoveredthere are a couple things that can be doneto stabilizea rack like this. First, straighten the slight angleout ofthe pegboard hooks so they project out 90' from the walls. This helps the rack hang straighter on the pegboardwall. PEGBOARD TOOI RACKS

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glue bottle nozzle. (In most cases,'%" inside diameter tubing works fine). Cut the tubing to a length of 2". Then stick a short length of matching (%") dowel into the top end of the tubing. To keep the stopper from getting separated from the glue bottle, drill a small hole through the dowel. Then thread nylon fishing line, string, or some light wire through the hole and tie it around the bottle top. Harold I. Stn\d,er State College, Pennsyluanin EDGE STRIP SANDINGBTOCK

The trick that really helpeclwas to cut threads on the end of'4" pegboarclhooks with a 6-32die (To cut threads, go slow and use even turning pressure.) When finished,tighten a &32 nut and washeronto the hook. Now the rack doesn'trock on the wall. (Note: Use 10-32or Vq-20 dies and nuts for %" pegboard hooks.) Since making the chisel rack, I've used the same method for making holders for small tools such as screwdrivers. files. and spade bits.

In the Shnp Notes section of Woodsmith No. 56 you presenteda method for bringing an edge strip flush with a plastic laminate or plywood top. No matter how careful you are, I think there is always some risk of harming the surface from either planing or scraping. Here's what I feel is a safe way to bring I discoveredanother solution to clamping the molding inside the frame. As you the edge strips flush. Aft,er gluing the explained in the same issue (page 23), strips so they're above the surdace a very Roman ogeebits have two radii (a concave slight amount, I make a sanding block to antl a convex)that are the same.So if two slide along the front face ofthe edge strip. pieces of the moldingare reversedand put GIUE OR TAPE SANDPAPER together', thel'"nest" into one another. 81' cutting some short scraps of the mokling and snugging them against the molclingon the inside of the frame, you have a wide clamping sur{aceon the back side of the scrap molding. Then hook your clampsaround to the outside of the frame to hold the molding tight. Benson A. Bowditch Conusau. Massarlrusetts GIUE BOTTIESTOPPER Nail a scrappieceof edgestrip (the same thicknessas the edge you want to sand)to a flat block. Next glue or carpet-tapesandpaper to the L-shapedsandingblock. Then sand the edge strip with the sandingblock riding on the front faceuntil it's flush with the plastic laminate or plywood. Jack C. Thompson Binghamton, New Ymk

It seemsthe stoppersthat comewith most glue bottles either get lost, fall on the floor or get steppedon. I solvedthis problem L. A. Jessevt, by making my own stoppers out of vinyl Ouerland,, Missouri tubing available at most hardware stores Editw's Note: Like all ol'the tips we print, or buildins centers. I wanted to try this one out in our shopbut ute didn't haue a tatpand die set. So I DRII.I.sMAU HOIE %".DIAMETER DOWET I %" LONG THROUGH DOWEI., went to a local hardware store and, wus THREAD WIRE surryised to find" thnt a basic tap and die OR STRING UsE %, INSIDE set isn't thnt enpensi'ue. Sears has a 12 THROUGH HOI.E piece hnmnoumer'sset J'or u,wler $12. I bought onn with quite a .fbw 'more sizes oJ' taps and, dies for uruler $25. Indiuidua| dies cost abm,t $2 to $3. And, then the fun began. In add,ition to threading pegboardhaoks, it's great to be ab\e to arld"m,orethreod,sto a catriage bolt or clean up sortrp dntmagedthread,s.And, u.'e'u)eueTltried tappittg into hardwood, The inside diameter of the tubing has to tt'ilh sontesuccess. be the sameas the outsidediameter of the

lf you'd liketo share a woodworking tipwithother readersot Woodsmith, send your idea to: Tips & Techniques, Woodsmith, 2200 Grand Ave.,DesMoines, lowa50312. Wepaya minimum of $10fortips,and915or morefor special (thatare accepted techniques forpublication). givea complete Please explanation of youridea.lf a sketchis needed, sendit we'lldrawa newone. along;

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Trrned Ornaments
SIXIVAYS TO SPRUCE UPA CHRISTMAS TREE
We couldn't think of a better way to get ready for Christmas than tuming a few ornaments for the tree. We had a lot of fun coming up with a variety of shapes- but tried to keep the basic turning techniques to a minimum. This also kept the number of turning tools to a minimum. (I used a roughing gouge, a Vz"gouge,a Vt" gouge, a %" parttng tool, ancl a %" skew.) As for the wood, you need six tulning squares 21/a"squan:e by 4Vz" long. (See Sources, page 24.) Aft,er a little experimenting, we settled on basswood for these ornaments. Basswoodis light enough so you don't have to hollow out the ornament to keep it from bending the tree branch too much. If there's a problem, it's that basswoodis somewhat soft,, and tends to tear rather than cut cleanly, as harder woods do. STEP-BY-STEP. The specificproceclures I followed to turn the ornamentsare showrr on the next two pages. The techniques shown here are not necessarilythe most commonones used in turning. Rather, we tried to show techniquesrve thought woulcl be the easiest to use even if you're not skilled at turning. This generally rneans that we used scraping techniquesas well as shearing techniques.

lVe choseto stait u'ith Ornament A to shovl' sometechniques common to most of the ornaments:how to turn the sweeping concave curve (usedon OrnamentsA, B, C), tulning the gentleconvexcurve (on A, B, C), cutting the V-glooves(on A, B, C, D, F), and turning the button at the top (on all of the ornaments).

Turning the ornamentsis onlv half the fun. I clecidecl to add a little decorative carving on three of the orn:rnrents, see page 7. When the ornaments wel'e finishecl, I screwecia small sctevr eye in the top button to hang them. Then the ornaments can be painted, or just spr:ryed with clear Deft to protect them.

vi' NOTE:onNemrNTs aRE sHowNHAtF stzE. sEND FoR Fulr.slzE PATTERN, SEE PAGE 24,
TAKE THIS PAGE TO A COPY CENTERAND ENIARGE 2OOOIO TO GET FUI.I.SIZE.

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RoucH AND MARK our. I'.ach orna- at ToP cuRVE.To turn the slleepinu I menl statls out as il b:r.s\t,.,otl blank ^i curve on Olnament A, I userl a '/-" about Zt/i' square by 47:" long. Rough gouge. Hokl it straight in at the light down the blank to a 2" diametei'.Then shouklerof the blank. To get the sweepa pivot point u.ith vour mark the transitionlines, (refer to Fig. 1 ing shape, establish fcrr dimensions). I markerl the transition left thumb. Then glatlually swing the Iines on a piece of carclboarrl and cut hanrlleout fi'om 6:00to 4:00while rollinc notches at eachline to hold the point of the ther ctitting enrl counterclocklvise(to thc pencil.l'inally, part dou'nboth cnds, step- lef't). The cutting en<lshouldroll over to pingthe enrlsbackso thet't"snromto u'ot'k. about a -lir"anpleat thc end of the cut. I 'I ROUGH CURVED BOTTOM. TheTE'sa .J u"t'.y gt'ntlccurveon tht'botlomo[the Although a skew coukl be used r-rtttament. hele, I fbundit easierto usc a parting tool. cut. Then push Start u'ith a whisker-u.ide in, increasing the u-idth of cut while keel> ing the si<le of the tool rubbingagainstthc pull the hanrllearouncl stock.Gra<luallv to the 6:00positionto end the cut. Only a few passes are neededto rough it dou'n.

sMoorH CURVED Bor'r'oM. lt's rliil'i, r.tcult to cut the ('ul've olr lhe bottorrt and get a smooth shape, especially with a parting tool. It can be srnoothed il'ith a Vpoint scraper', however I chose :ln unorthodox approach. Since I was working with the parting tool anyway, I just rollecl it over on its sirle and used thc curve of the tool like a scraper to shape the bottom. (It may help to re-sharpen it to a long point.)

F v-cRoovus. The birnd at the waist ol' 'o v -g11x)ves. J ,n* ornament nas t\ 'fhese glooves are located %" from the shoukler of the sweeping top culve, and %" from the rounded bottom curve. I cut these gtooves with the parting tool. Lay the tool <-rn its sirle and push it straight in. Make the cut slowly. The V-grrxrve only needs to be %,i' witle - it's eas.yto get cari'ied awa;g and make this cut too deep.

Z ToP llurroN. Next, I marked tht: lJ shouklerline for the button at thertop of the omament. Then part a %,"'-rieep shoukler', about %" long. I continuedrvith the parting tool to shape the half-rnunrl button. Starting at the shoulrler,gentlv roll the parting tool to thc light (clockwise) to cut thc button shape. As the cutting etlge reachesthe vertical position,it will shapethc top of the button.

A BEAD.Ornament B uses t/ TURNING techniques to turn the I the samebasic sweeping curve, the rouncled bottom, and the buttons.The only acldition is to cut the curve (bead)at the top that blencls into the button. You coulcluse a skew with shearing action. However, I fbund it easier to hokl the skew flat on the tool rest, and cut the bead with a scrapingaction by moving the handlefrom 6:00to 4:00.

lt WAIST BEAD WITH SKEW. Ornament itl a t. son or an lnvenea vel'sron or tne fir'st two. However, I mountecl it lvith the bottorn encl on the light, because it was easier to tuln the sr,l.ee1-ring curve. Next, I cut in a beacl at the u,aist. Again, I used :i skew rnith a scraping action. Hokl the skew flat on the tooi rest. Then rotate the long point into the u'aist, moving the harulle ft'r-'mti:00 t0 4:00.

This be:rd can be sclaperl rvith a "vaist. skeu', but I used a partinu trxrl. Start n'itli the par'ling tool straight in and rlll it to the left until the cutting crlge is veitical 'fo atrclcuts a crisp u'aist linc. complete this ornament, use a skelv to sclal-ie an ekrngatecl bca<l at the right enrl (Step 7), antl tum the bottom as in Steps ii and -1.

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Ali A BALL, SCRAPING. TURNING | | fill is to use a so'al)er I f,tfl;'it"#1l,1 trffi:.t I I easierapproach O is one of the simplest - a nal. Besides to shapethe ball. Or, you can use a skew you have developing the actualtechnique, to develop an eye for the shape. The fa^stest way to tum a ball is to use a 1" skew with a shearing action. This is more diffrcult than it looks. You have to keep the bevel riding against the stock and rotate the tool so you don't "catcha corner."
I lli TURNING A BAII, PARTTNC TOOL.

| .3 P,otnof the nreviousmethodsare awkwarcl when turning the left end (if in a scraping position. T\rrrr the skew on you're right-hancled).If all else fails, grab its side and hold it flat on the tool rest with a parting tool. (In fact, I find it much easthe long point leading around the encl of ier to use a parting tool on both ends.) the end, Start at the waist, with just a hairline cut. the stock. Slide the skew arouncl while keeping the center of the cutting Then push the parting tool around the edgeon the curve. It's skru',but less-risky curve pressing its side against the stock, anclgradually increasingthe width of cut. than using a shearingcut.

4TI SMOOTH BALL. PARTINC TOOL. It'S

I rl rather qasy to rough out the basit' shapeof the ball with a parting tool. The tool is very forgiving so you don't have to worry too much about technique,and can concentrateon visualizing the shape of a sphere.(Look at the top eclge.)Then to get the final shape, I roll the parting tool on its side and use it as a scrapingtool to smooth the ball to shape.

sMALLcovE. OrnamentsD and l.' | t! ^ l Irave lr smull(1rve irl the uaist that is cut with a small (%") gouge. The motion is the sameas sholvnin Step 2. Stick the gouge straight in the centel of the cove. To cut the Ieft side, roll the cutting (to the lelt) and move end counterclockwise the handlefrom 6:00to about5:00.For the right side, go back to 6:00 and roll clockwise while moving the handleto 7:00.

that will get the job clone.In the caseof the cove, I found it difficult to get such a - there's not much small coves.ymmetrical room to play around and cortect mistakes. So I turned it down to rough shape and finishecl it with a strip of sandpaper wrappecl arouncl a %" dowel. This gave me the exact shapeI wanted.

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covn. Ornament F SHoULDERED | 7 | :ffiH'"*''J.?'?YJ ff#lgf.t at 6 iTl,";1jit-,i"1?:rh;, beginsas a cylinderwith a coveat | 8 LlHo have to get a perfect sphere. As the left, the waist. Then a shouldered coveis cut at ter at both ends (enoughto hold it on the side is turned, stop short to create the angled shoulderat the bottom of the ornament. SinceI used a parting tool, this decoration starts right where the parting tool leaves off. Then two more shouldersare turned at successively steeper angles (about4:30then 3:30positions). the bottom. (Tip: Since I'm right-handed, I founclit easierto turn this cove with the ornamentmounted"upsidedown" - so the cove is on the right.) Complete the ornament by parting off a shoulder below the cove and turning the large button. Then cut V-grooves and a button on top. lathe). Then sand with 150 ancl 240 gr't sandpaper. Remove the ornament foom lathe and sawwasteoff ends. I used a knife to completelyshapethe ends and sancled them smooth. Three ornaments have carving (see next page). Then to protect them, I sprayed on a coat of clear Deft. WoODSMITH

Cawing the Ontaments

I couldn't resist. Although the turriecl ornamentsshown in the previous article can stand on their own without any further decoration,it takes just a few strokes of a knife to add a unique accentto three ofthe ornaments.Even if you've never done any carving before, this is easy. Ornament A has a series of vertical notches extending between the tivo Vgroovesthat were tunted, around the bottom band. On OrnamentE, I addedfour stars around the middle of the ball. And on Ornament F, I cut in a zig-zagpattern on the two waist bands. (Refer to drawings on page4.) CARVING KNIFE.All of these cuts are madewith the sametool - a shapingknife with a sheepfootblade. This tppe of knife hzrs a straight cutting edgewith a backthat curvesto a point at the end of the blarle, see Fig. 2 below. Although you can buy a calving knil'eI'rn' this project (see Sources,page 2-l), this type of bladeis s<lmetimes founrl on pocket knives. It's also the basic shapeof a Stanley or Sears utility knife which coulcl be used if you want. tAY OUT THE PATTERN Aft,er the ornaments are turned ancl sanded,I marked out the carving pattern
USE STRIPOF PAPER TO IAY OUT MARKS

by drawing the stroke iines with a pencil. a. The lavout on Ornament ORNAMET{T A is easy. Just draw a series of vertical lines between the V-grooves on the bottom band of the ornament, see Fig. 1 on page4. To get the spacingright, I wrapped a strip of paper around the ornament and marked a point to inclicatethe circumference,see Fig. 1, below. Unwrap this slrip and mark a series of lines about t/x"apart. The spacingmay not work out perfectly. Adjust the spacingon the last few lines to completethe pattern. ORNAIvIENT r. The zig-zag pattern on Ornament F is also laid out between the V-grooves on the waist bands. Again, r\Tap a strip of paper around the ornament ancl mark the circumference.Then mark off etlual sectionsabout %" u'ide on the lraper. Tlunsfer these marks to the circurnfelence of the olnanrentto indicatethe points of eachzig-zag,r'efel to Fig. -1. ORNAMENT n. The star on OrnamentE is marked by drawing two crosslines1" long on the centerofthe ball. Then sketch the crescent-shaped curves between the ends of the lines. CARVING Aft,er drawing the layout lines, I used the knife to cut V-groovesat the lines. One of

the advantagesof using basswoodis that it's very easy to carve. The cutting stroke is the sameon Ornaments A and F. Just poke the point of the knife in at one of the V-grooves (the grooves that were tum.ed on the band). Then draw the knife toward you cutting a slight crescent (curved) shape to the oppositeV-groove,see Fig. 2. I madethis cut on oneside of all the lines first. Then I turned the ornament end-forend to make the secondcuts, see Fig. 3. The cuts shouldbe made in one continuous cut, slightly less than the depth of the turned V-grooves.Try to make eachcut in one motion. It's very difficult to go back and "cleanup" a cut - it almostalwaysgets worse rather than better. The same type of cut is macleon Ornament F, except the shape of the carved lines can be more of a crescent shape,see Fia. ,1. When carvingthe stars in OrnamentE, rkrn't be shy about the depth of the cut. The knit'e has to go in quite deep. Make the first cuts on the waist of the ornament (horizontalon the omament),see Fie. 5. Then make the secondcuts vertical on the ornament,see Fig. 6. This sequence will help prevent chippingout the corner where the cuts meet.

MARX %" INCREMENTS

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Disphe
A SHADOWBOXFOR TREASURES SMALL
Aft,er turning the Christmas omaments shown on page 4, I decidedto design and build a display casefor them. But as soon as I was done, I had requests for more of these cases(at different sizes) to display everything from thimbles to figurines. The caseshown is made of %"-thickwalnut for the frame and t/q"-thick basswood for the dividers. (See Sources,page 71.) THE FRAME I started by making the outside frame. Each frame piecehas a large rabbet on the inside face (cut almost across its width) which holds the glass front, see Fig. 1. cur THE PIECES. Since it's easier to cut the rabbet on two long pieces than four short pieces,I beganby cutting tr.r'opieces of t/2" stock to a finished widLh of 2"/i' and a rough length of 18". RABBET. To cut the rabbets. set the sau' blade :/s" from the fence and raise it 2%" abovethe table, seeDetail in l'ig. 1. (This will leave a t/," x %" lip at the top.) MITER To LENcrH. Aft,er the rabbets are cut, the two long workpiecesare cut in half and then mitered to finished length to produce two side pieces (A) and the top and bottom pieces(B), see Fig. 2. ShopNote: If you try to miter the pieces with the outside (good surface) up, they won't sit flat on the saw because of the rabbet. To solve this problem, I slipped a scrap of %" Masoniteunder the workpiece and into the rabbet, see Fig. 3. ASSEMBLY. Now the frame can be a^ssembled.To keep the frame square, cut a pieceof plywood to the eract leng;thof the inside miters. Then clamp the frame around the plywood, see Fig. 4. (Put wax paper behind the corner blocks to keep them foom being glued to the frame.) BACK.Aft,er the frame is assembled,I edge-glued a back panel (C) from Va" stock. (You could use %" plywood.) When the blank is dry, plane it flat and then cut it to fit inside the frame, seeFig. 2. (Note: Ifusing solid stock, cut the back about %c" narrower than the openingto allow for expansionwith changesin humidity.) EGGCRATE DIVIDERS The "egg-crate"dividers that partition the frame consist of three center dividers and four outside pieces,refer to Fig. 7. TESTIGRF. Sincethe center dividers (D and E) interlock in saw-cut notches, the thicknessof eachcenter divider must equal a single saw kerf. To determine the width of the kerf made by your blade, cut a test kerf in a piece of scrap.

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WooDSMITH

TO THICKNESS. Now resaw the RESAW stock for the dividers to thicknessto match the kerf. Resaw enough for two vertical dividers (D) (rough stzes 2Vz" x 7") anci one horizontal divider (B) (2/z' x 8"). Shop Note: To allow for planing and sanding, it's best to resaw these pieces slightly thicker than the kerf'. The.vshoulcl fit the test kerf aft,ersanding. RESAW OI.ITSIDE PIECES. The fotu. out. siclepieces(F,G) of the egg-crateai'e rnacle thicker (%') because half of theit'thickness is hiclden behincl the 1/s"rabbet on the frame. (When viewed fi'om the Ii'ont of the ca-se, only %" lhicknesswill a14rear.) cuT To SIZE.To make these 7r'rthick outsidepieces,start by cutting trvo vertical outsidepieces(F) to roughl.v 2t/2"x 7" ancltwo horizontalpieces(G) 2t/:" x 8". To determinethe l'itrul ridlh of o1l the dividers, measurethe depth of the box from the bottomofthe lip to the backerrlge (2%").Then subtract the thiclnerss ol the glass (%") ancl the thicknessol tht' back ('/i'). In mv casethis nrcuntcrrttingthe cliviclers21/i' wirle, sc,e l"is. ir. LENGTH. Now all the pierces can lre cLrt to final lengJlh so they 1it snuglv iri.srrlt, ther frame, refer to Fig. 8. This is 6%" frl' the vertical pieces(D,Ir) ancl7t/2"lirr the horizontalpieces(E,G). ENDNOTCHES. Next. I cut notches in all of the pieces to assemblethem. These notches are cut exactly half wav up the width of each piece. Staft by cutting %"wide enclnotches in all the pieces to match pieces(F,G). the thicknessof the outsicle To cut these end notches,set the t'ence a^s a stop 1/i' fi'om the otrt.side of the blade and the blade height equal to half the width (heisht) of the pieces (1'r'."),see Detail A in Fig. 6. Then rnahe' a pass at \'ou can cut the end of the pieces.(Nr,rte: a number of pieces;rt once.)To finish the notch to t/i' wide, push the enclsagainst the fence and make another pass. NOTCHES. CEI\TTER Next, I cut the cen. ter notches on the opposite edgeofthe end notches. That is, the pieces shoulcl be twned so the end notchesare on the too edgewhen the centernotches are cut. (D,F), cut On the shorter verticalpieces (in my case, a notch centeredon the len6Jth 3t/l" from the encl, see Fig. 5). On the horizontal pieces (E,G), cu| a noteh 21/:" from each end, see Detail B in Fig. 6. FINAI ASSEMBLY Before putting all of the pieces together, I finished them with two coats of tung oil. Then I cut a pieceof glassto fit the frame. Now, slide in the egg-crate pieces. (If the thickness of the stock matches the width of the notches, the pieces should push together without glue, see Fig. 7.) To hold the back panel in place, I screwed two metal turn buttons into the back edge of the frame, see Fig. 8.

FIGURE5

2'/2"

lf

2'ta'

lf

21rt"

@@ ll

"r

@Gl ll

JF", -IF",

ll

,r-l

PIECES VERTICAL (cuTrwo %" rHtcx)(cuT Two vl' tHtcKl

HORIZONTAT PIECES (cuT oNE vs"THtcK) (cuT nivo 1/a" lqtcK\

PTECES D|V|DERS cAN BE?. CUTATONCE'AUxtLlARY MTTER FENCE GAUGE

@nm@

ri#

T-

FIGURE 7

FIRST: ASSEMBTE
7s"THICK CENTER DIVIDERS

THIRD:
ADD %" THICK HORIZONTAI'OUTSIDEPIECES

PIECES SHOUID HOI,D TOGETHER WITHOUTGI.UE

Wooosl,urH

Kid's Sled
BUILT FOR SNOW SHO\VAND GO
A good sled is like a fine sports car. You feel like it's part of you as you slide down hill. Even though our sled doesn't have a fancy steering mechanismor flexible runners, the kids will find it runs like a sports car for fast maneuveringdown the slopes. This subjectof speedbrings me to a topic in the Woodthat receivedsomediscussion smith offices.Given the right hill and the right snow conditions, this sled is fast. Dave's kids (our low-budget test pilots) praisedits speed.Dave, forgetting his own youth as a thrill seeker, got the chills. We don't encourageusing this sled on hills with trees or other immovable obstacles.For young chilclren,this is a pull sled, not a coasting sled. The line between the use and abuse of anythingisn't fine. It's obviouswhat's fun and what's foolhardy. This sled is a lot of fun when it's usedintelligently. Useclrecklessly,it canbe clangerous. But, so cansliding down a hill on a conventional slecl- or even on a piece of cardboard. Oneother thing to keep in mind: all sleds are meant for coasting on snow, not ice. The plastic trim on our sled's runners makes it especiallygood, even in powdery snow. But, unlike the steel runners on commercial sleds, this plastic won't bite into ice. So, steer clear of icy spots before you lose control of your steering. 'UIATERIALS The sled is made of solid ash - the same wood used since the last ice age for clog sleds.snowshoes. and skis. Ash has been popular for winter transportation because it stays flexible even through hourly freezelthawcycles. FASTENERS. Instead of using rawhide thongs to lash the parts together, we used lmock-downfurniture fasteners. On these fasteners the shank is threaded to screw into a steel cross dowel nut. This design lets them be retightened without stripping the holes.Dwing the summerthe sled can be broken down and packedaway. RUNNEREDGING.The runners have strictly modera trimmings. We covered the edgeswith vinyl T-molding- the table edging that's commonly used on inexpensive plywood and particleboard furniture. This trim makes the runners slick and abrasion resistant. And the T-molding is easy to replaceif it's wora or damaged. 'UIAKE RUNNERS The sled consistsof two runners (A) connectedby two crossbraces(B) and six slats (C) that are screwedto the crossbracesto form the seat. I began by cutting the runners fi'om 4l't (''/i' to |r/r,i' actual) blown ash, 6" u'ide by 36" long, see Fig. 1. RUNNERS. The runners (A) fonn the siclesof the sied. To cut them to shape, begin by laying out the profile, see Fig. 1. Sincethe positionofthe 45'angledcuts on the rear of the runners is determined by the arcsofthe circlesthat form the corners, I drew the circles first. CORNERS. The two rear corners, as well as the nose of the r-unner. are made bv
MATERIATS I.IST
Overofl Dim: 4l7h"w x 2lt/i'd x 30t%i'h

drau'ing 1" radius circies. Locate the front circle ancl lower rear circle right at the corners of the workpiece, see Fig. 1. Next, to locate the upper rear corner, measurein 5" from the end and square a line down from the top edge. Place the point of a compass on this line and draw a l" radius circle so it touchesthe top edge ofthe workpiece.Then draw a line tangent to the upper and lower circles. When the waste is cut off, the angle of the rear end of the runner will be about 45'.
CUITING DIAGRA'II
t3/ti'x5V1'x3'

A B C D

Runner (2) Cross Bruces (2) Seor Slors (6)* Dowefs (2)**

tsAo x 6 - 36 r3/t6 x 7r/4 14 Vz x 2 - 2O/q Tq x l4Tq

t3/tt,x7t/i,x48tl

* RESAW rO y2" ** CUT FROiA gNE Y;'x

36" DOWET

10

WOODSMITH

FRol.lT EDcn. The cut've at the fi'ont of the runner is macle by tlrarn'ing an ai'c "l.ith a 171/,i'radius. The center point of this arc is 12" back from the flont erlge of the op from the bottom edge. sled and L77/s" Aft,er clrawing this curve, cut to sliape and sand smooth. Then use it as :r ytattenr to lav out the curve on thc opposite rlttrltei'. MORTISES When both runnel's ale cttt to shape. hlind mortises are made on thc insirle lirci's f'ol T h e t ' e r t le 1 \ t, ' r e l . o f the cross bt'aces. mortises. Those in finnt at'e lortnd holes 'flic rtthet' tnotfbr the two dowel h:rnrlles. bt'aces tises are rectangular foi'the ct.r-rss that support the seat slats, st:e F ig. 2. The |or,tttd tnot'tises ROUND MORTISES. are 'y'i'-dia. tlat-bottonted holes foi' the dowels. To bore these holes. fir'st rnalk their locations centet'erl2" atxl (i" tilrn the fi'ont of the runnel anrl 7"" dori'n fitm the tr4r edge. Then r-tseu 'llr" I"ot'stltt'r' ltit to bore the holes '/:" rlet'1r 'l'o MORTISItS. tltitlit' tltt' RECTANGUI-AR rectangular mottises lirl tht' cl'ttsslri:ttt'. (R), begjn bv using iL conririnrtlilll s(lLtirt t to la.vout theit' positions,st't' l"ill. 2. ()'iott': lhc thiclit,tlttiLls The witlth o1'the nrot'tist, ness of the cross br':tct'. ) Ncxt. t'ellovc most of the waste rvithili thc outlines. I roughed it out with a 7r" stlaight irit in :i router set to cut /*" tleep, see F ig. ;J. After most of the waste is rcmrlvccl, cle:ur up the erlges anrl the cornet's of the mortises with a chisel, see F ig. 4. CENTER CUTOUT Now the centcr of each rultnei'can be cut out to provide a good halid-hold and lighten the sletl's weight. POSITIONCIRCLES.I made the cutottt by cutting away an atta of u':Lstelrt'tu't't'tt t crl oti tlte two 1%"-radius circles certtte width of the runnct's, sce l"ig. 1. lbsitiott tiuttr tl're the center of the re:u' cii'cle !)r,/:" 'I'hcn scribc' the 1il'u'ai'rl rear of the sled. circle 11" in fi'ont of the leal otre. CUT oUT CENTER. Aftei' di'au.ing both cilcles, scribe top and bottom lines to connect them, then cut out the waste with a sabre saw, see Fig. 5. ROI.,ND INSIDE EDGES. NOW thc iNSidC edges can be rouncled to provide a comfbrtable hancl grip. To rlo this, I userl a router with a %" r'ouncl-over bit set to cut %,i' deep, see Cross Section in Fig. 5. RUNNER SLOTS.While I had the router out, I cut the slots for the T-rnolcling that goes arouncl the perimeter of the runners. To clo this I usecl a %'i' slot cuttei' bit. Begin by practicing on a scrap piece the same thickness as the runner stock. Atljust the bit until it cuts a slot ert'aclly centered on the ecige. Then cut the groove all the way arouncl the tunner, see Fig. 6. Shop Note: The pilot on the slot cutter automatically makes a '/:"-deep groove.

PROFIIE SLED RUNNER

MORTISEWIDTH EQUAIS

DRITT A %" sIARTING HOTEATONG ONE EDGE

Wooosl.ttrH

t1

SEATSUPPORTS Aft,er the runners are finished, the cross braces (B) that support the seat slats can be made. These braces also are 4l4" brown ash, 3'wide by 14"long. TENoNs.To join the cross bracesto the runners, simple tenons are formed by cutting %" by %" notcheson the top and bottom edges producing Z%"-wide tenons to fit the mortises in the runners, see Fig. 7. I cut these notehes on the table saw using the miter gauge for support. Since the fence is used as a stop, I fastened a scrap of %" pl;rwood to the side of the fence to protect it foom the blade. KNOCK.DOWNFASTENERS Aft,er cutting the tenons, the cross braces are ready for the knock-down fasteners, see Fig. 8. To do this, three sets of holes have to be drilled. HOLES IN RI,]NNERS. The first set of holes goes through the runners for the body of the bolts, see Fig. 8. To locate these holes, square a line from the center of the mortise. Next, mark the hole positions 17:" anrl 3t/2" down from the top edge of the mnners. Then drill %,i' holes from the outside into the mortise. END HoLES. Now the holes for the shanks of the bolts can be drilled into the endsofthe crossbraces. To do this, I temporarily mounted the mnners to the braces. Then I used the holes in the runners as guides and drilled %ri' holes 2'%" deep into the ends, see Fig. 9. NUT HoIJS. Finally, the holes for the crossdowel nuts can be drilled on the back face of the cross braces.To do this, scribe Iines centered on the end holes and continue them across the inside faces of the braces, see Fig. 10. Then bore the 7/u!'clia. holes centered ll/"" from the ends of the braces.(Theseholes are 1%,i'deep.) PROFILE EDGES. Next, I rounded over the bottom edges of the cross braces, see Detail in Fig. 10. (Leave the top edges square to support the seat slats.) FRAMEASSEMBLY. The sled can be assembled at this point. First cttt Lwo 't/l"dia. dowels l4%" long to fit between the runners and bore a:/a" tow rope hole 1" in from each end. Then tighten the fittings. A PTACE TO SII To mal<ethe seat, begin by ripping six slats (C) from /2" stock (or resaw 4/4 stock to Vz" Lhick) to 2" wide by 20%" long. DADoEs.To help hold the sled square and rigid, the seat slats have dadoes on both ends that fit over the cross braces. You have to make sure these dadoesare spacedto match the distancesbetweenthe two crossbraces.To do this, I cut the dado only on one end of all the piecesfirst. sETDAD0BLADp.To cut the dadoes,set up the dado blade to match the thickness

NOTE:

Tl
1Vz"

USE HOTES THROUGH RUNNERSTO FOSITION BIT

rr i
I
sHANKHOTE

vil

t,

;r

vl

t,,

ASSEMBIf CRO55 BRACES TO RUNNERS

FIGUREI I

3h"

DC'WEI

t7

WooDSMITH

in my case),see of the cross braces (1%0" Detail in Fig. 12. Next, use the fence as a stop by setting it 1" from the dado blade, see Fig. 12. Then cut the dado %" deep acrossthe end of all the pieces. oTHER DArD. To position the dado on the other end of the slats I set the slat on edge over the cross braces with the dado exactly aligned over one brace, see Fig. 13. Then, I marked the position of the other brace on the bottom of the slat. Next, reset the fence and cut the dadoes. ROLJND ENDS. Before fastening the slats to the braces, the ends of the slats are rounded on the router table, see Fig. 14. FASTEN TO BRACES.The s]ats are fastenedto the cross bracesusing No. 8 x l" brass Fh woodscrews.Begin by drilling '%e" countersunk shank holes centered over the dadoeson each of the slats. A-ft,erthe shank holes are drilled. nosition the slats on the braces with %" soace between the slats. (I used scraps of %" Masoniteto maintain the spacingbetween the slats and the outside slats.) Then drill 'hz" ptlot holes into the braces. ScREwS. Brass screws are useclbecause they won't rust or corrode. But, they're weaker than steel screws ancl sometimes break where you're tightening them. To alleviate this problem, I tighten a steel screw into each hole first to cut the threads. Then I back it out and tighten the brass screw in place. Note: The ends of the screws that go through the two outsideseat slats are positioned directly over the knock-down fasteners.To keep them from mnning into the fasteners, I cut off the ends so the overall length of the screwswas about %". RUNNER STRIPS Now all that's left, is putting on the mnners. To do this, start the plastic molding in the groove on the top center of the top of the runner, see Fig. 15. Then stretch it while pressingit in placeuntil you cometo the curve at the nose of the mnner. FRONT To make the tight cuwe CLJRIr'E. at the nose, the "T" part of the strip has to be notchedso it won't buckle.To do this, cut V-shaped notches about Va" wide where they join the bottom edge, see Detail in Fig. 15. Aft,er cutting the notches, press and stretch the T-molding the length of the bottom of the runner.Whenthe bottom rear corner is reached,more notcheswill be necessarry to make this bend. Then bend the T-molding up the angled reax end and cut one more set of notchesto make this bend. nNo. Finally, pressin the strip along the top of the mnner and cut off the end so it butts tightly against the starting end. FINrsH.Since this sled will be used in weather unfit for man or beast,it deserves a tough, flexible finish. I laid on three coats of marine spar varnish.

MARK POSITION CROSS OF OPPOSITE BRACEON SI.AI

NOTE: cUI scREws oN

FIRST AND LASTSI.ATS

(sEE CROSS BELOW) sECTTON

PRE-THREAD HOI.Es WITH STEEISCREWS

Wooosurrn

T3

Seti"g Tiay
A ROUNDED CUTTING CORNERS WAY
Sometimes the best reason for building a project is to test out a new technique.That was my approach as I started to work on this serving tray. The tray didn't seem as important as having the chanceto try out a comer joint I hadn't used before. The techniqueinvolves cutting a radius (or rounded) corner, without bending it. That in itself isn't too difficult. But the challengeis to join this corner pieceto the other frame pieces.That takes some planning ahead on how the corner pieces are laid out and cut. (Note: A detailed article on making the coraer piecesis on page 18.) CORNER PIECES (A) To make the corners for this serving tray, I started by laminatingtwo piecesof 4/4 stock ('t/a"to t't/t(' actual thickness) which will produce a blank l%" to | /*" thick, see Fig. 1. (Or, you can use a piece of 8/4 stock.) Cut this piece to a width of 4?As"and a length of 29". crJTBLocKs. To cut out the four blocks neededfor the corner pieces,begin by cutting offthe end ofthe blank at a 45'angle. Then cut offfour triangular-shapedblocks, see Fig. 1. To make the squareblocks, cut the "ea.rs"off two corners of the triangles to get blocks 3%" square. (I cut off the "ears" on a band saw.) LAY OUTTIIE CORNERS. Now the curved comers can be laid out on the blocks. The easiest way to do this is to tape the four blocks together. Then use a compassto draw two circles, see Fig. 2. The outsidecircle has a radius of3". The inside circle is drawn so the corner pieces have a thickness equal to the stock thicknessyou want to use for the tray sides. (I used stock that was r/r,;" thick so the radius of the inside circle is 23lre".) AND HANDIES SIDES Aft,er drawing these circles, I cut the stock for the tray's sides and handles. The two sides (B) are ll:r/s" Iong, see Fig. 5. These side pieces are cut to width so they equal the thickvress(height) of the corner block (15/i' in my case). The piecesfor the handles(C) are cut to a length of 6", see Fig. 5. Since the handles rise above the Ievel of the corner piecesand the sides, these piecesare cut extra wide (tall), to a height of 3%". AND SPIINE JOINTS OROOVE Now the joints can be cut to connectall the pieces. I used a decorative version of a spline and groove joint. This requires cutting grooves in the mating ends of each l4

/r

ROUGH BIANKCORNER BIOCKS

..***" *" nr.rt * f .-4/4

STOCK T@EIHER 1t/2" lO ls/s" THICX

TRIANGIES

AT 45. ANGI.E

II
3t/i

I l

I I
RADII'IiU5T EETIIYEEN T}IICKNESS EOUAI. Of SIDE

a-,

WooostrnrH

piece, and then cutting splinesto fit the

g'1'00ves. GRoovES. To shou' off the joint, I cut a set of three gl'ooves in each piece - two shalklw grooves with a deeper gloove centered between them. 'lb set the blade cut the shalkrw g'l'ooves, to a height of 7r". Then position thc ttp f'ence so it's '%" titm the insirle of the blarle, see Detail in Fig. a. Shop Note: I used a rip blarlc to cut these grooves. All the teeth on l rip trlade :rre ground flat acnrss the top, uhich p'orluces a flat-bottom gr(r<rve. \\'.hcn Ihe CUT GROOVESIN CORNERS. saw is set up, hokl the colnet'blocli lirrnlv againstthe fence, anrl cut:r shallori'gr'oove in one eclge of each cot'nei' blrcli, scc lrig. :i. (Make sure the gr'(x)veis cut on an edge t'hrrre the ends of' thc curve ale rllarvn.) 'l'hen rotate thc bkrcli ancl r.nakea second cut in the othel erlgt:rvhele therothet'end of the curve is tlrawn. cu't GROOVESIN SIDES. Next. matching grooves are cut in thc enrls o1'tht' side (R). Helt,, I ttst,rla 2rJ bLrclito sulrlrieces p o r t t h e p i e c e u h i l t ' i t ' s p L i s h t . rtlh r r r u q h the blarle,see ["iu. ]. trluliethis cttt ,n lroih cntls of the sidc lrit,cls -- nrirliirrg slll (, th(, same erlge is ag:tiltst thc ti,nct, liri' lroth cuts. Shop Note: Sincc this entin, ploct,rlLur, t'uluires uofkil)g u'ith the s:Lrnt,erlge auainst the f'encc fil' all thrcc cltls itt cacl-r lriece, I markerl the oirlsidr, (tr4r) erlge of :rll pieces with an "X", see |ig. 1-r. Whcn I was ready to make the cut, I chcckerl to tnake sure the "X" w:rs out, (uwa;g litm Lhe fcnce), r'ef'el to l'iqs. il arxl ,1. CUT GROOVESIN HANDI,ES.With tITe saw still in thc sanre set-up, nralie this same cut in both cnrls of the trvo hanrlle pieces (C). Again, I userl a 2x'l bkrcli to support the hanrllc as the grrrovt' is cul. SECOND GROOVE.'focut the otht,r'shalkrw gt'oove, it w'oul<l seenr elrsit,st to simpl.y turn the picces arounrl (so the opposite edge is against the f'ence)zLnrl make the cut. This woukl work fine on tho corner pieces and the sidcs, but not on thc handle since it's wicler. Instead, you have to ad.just the rip fence so the measulement fi'om the otttside of the workuiece to the otttside of the blade is 'y'"", see Detail in F ig. ti. CUT GROOVES.When the I'ence is acljusted, make ther seconcl set of shallorv grooves in the ends ofall the l)ieces(correr blocks, sicles, and hanclles). When you're done, all of thc pieces shoukl have two shallow grooves as shown in F ig. {i. CUT CENTER cRooVE. The last step is tr-rcut the deeper center groove. Raise the blacle to a height of %". Then position the f'ence so the blade is centerecl betrveen the lirst two cuts, see Detail in Fig. 7. Make this cut using the same procedure on all pieces, keeping the "X" eclge out.

oNtY NOTE:cul GRoovEs

ON BOTH ENDS OF CURVE

NOTE:

FIRST CUT

DETAIT

(TOP} MARK AI.t OUTSIDE EDGEsWITH "X"

"+
J
CORNER r-,-,_.x BLOCK (FOUR s' ---::-=_;--.pieces)

CORNER BTOCK
I

HANDIE (TwoPtEcEs)
/a\

] I d |

I I

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th'

-"/ \* \<y_,,/
6,

F *, ll

t I
%'

CORNER BtocK

N.

A ==\>

NOTE:
KEEP"X" EDGEOUI WHEN CUTTING

DETAII.
IP FEI,lcE t

NOTE:
KEEP OUI "X" EDGE WHEN CUTTING
-CENTER GROOVE BETWEEN OUTSIDE CUTS

0 il -L rl n ffi n'/"'l

,1

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WooDSMITH

l-)

HANDIE IAYOUT
ARCMUST MEET TOP

DRII.TBOTH %" CORNERHOIES\ THEN SAW OUT WASTE

THEHANDIEAND CORNERS After the groovesare cut in all the pieces, I cut the handle to final shane.The inside of the handle is defined by 'ilr"-61i2. 1'ro1". at each end, see Fig. 8. Then a 2" -radius arc is drawn to connectthese two holes. DRAw CURVES. The outside of the tray handle is shaped by two intersecting curves. One is a 2'%" raclius drawn f?om the samecenter point as the radius for the inside of the handle. This curve intersects with two l%"-radius curves drawn from eachtop corner of the block, see Fig. 8. CUTOI-IT HANDLES. Aft,er the crrrvesare clrawn, drill the '%"-clia.holes. Then cut out the center of the handlewith a jig saw or sabre saw and sand the edge smooth. Next, round over these inside edgeswith a %" round-overbit, see Fig. 8. Also cut the top outsideedgeofthe handleto shape and sandit smooth. THE CoRNERS. Aft,er the handles are shaped, I cut the inside radius of the corner pieceson a band saw, see Fig. 9. Then sand this edge smooth with a drum sander on a drill press. (However, leave the outside corner square. It's used a-sa clamping surfaceduring assembiy.) ROUND OVEREDGES. Usually I would u'ait until after assemblv to sandand round ovel the edges.Rut in this case,you can't lound the top insideedgesof the trav becausethe hanrlles u.ill be in the wav. I lountlecl ovct'the top edges ofthe sides and handles with a 'y's"r'ound-overbit mountedon the routei'table, see Fig. 10. Also round over the top insirleedgeof the corner pieces,see Detail in Fig. 9. ASSEMBTY In order to join the pieces, you haveto cut three splinesfor eachjoint, see Fig. 11. The splinescan be cut from the samewood to match the tray stock, or from contrasting (darker) wood to highlight the ioint. For gteatest strength, the splines are cut so the grain runs perpendicularto the joint line. I cut the splines by resawing (ripping on edge) %"-thickstrips (to match the width ofthe grooves), seeFig. 11.The width of these strips shoulclbe enough so the splinesextend out from the sidesofthe frame about %" to allow for some shift,ing during glue-up, see Fig. 12. BEGIN GLUINc.After the splinesare cut. assembly can begin.Fist, glue the splines to join two corner piecesand one handle. Then clampthis unit together, see Fig. 12. As the clampis tightened, make sure the endsofthe cornerpiecesdo not twist. Thev must be square so they can be joined to the side pieces. (I placed a straightedge against the ends of the corrrer pieces to checkfor square,see Fig. 12.) ADD SIDES. Aft,er the two end units are glued up, add the sides. This is where it can be tricky to keep the whole frame from

--17/e"R

Ii--Jt
tv;'--4 \ I "4i',
l

ROUND EDGES OVER oF cuTouT wfiH t/a' ROUNDOVER BIT

AFIER CUTTING WASTE,ROUND OVER TOP INNER EDGEWITH %,, ROUNDOVERBIT

%" ROUND-

:\

S\
DETAIL G[uE spgNEs To

Wooosl.rtrH

twisting. The best approachis to placethe clampson a smoothlevel suface, see Fig. 13. Then put the frame in position antl pttsh doun firmly against the clamps. Tighten each clamp a iittle at a time, making sure the fi'ame tloesn't tll.ist. PIECES CORNER COMPI.ETE When the glue is dry, you cancompletethe corner pieces.First, use a band saw to cut off the outsidecorner, see Fig. 14. FILE INSIDE.As these cuts are made. trims off the the band saw automaticall-v spline'sexcess on the outsideof the tt'ay. on the inUse a file to removcthe excess side. Then sand the inside and outside r.dgesof the tra.y frame. All of the tray's ROUND OVERCoRNEns. top edges were rounded over before assembly, except the outside edges of the corner pieces.Roundingover these edges is awkward. I hekl the tray fi'ame vertically on the router table and slicl it in an arc into a '%" round-ovelbit, see Fig. 15. rHE TRAY BOTTOM The last step is to arlrl the bottonr. Here The bottonrcanbc vou havea few choices. to nratch made out of hartlwootlpl1,'"1'ood the tray frame stock. Or, it can be,nttrle that's lamiof a fancyburl or exoticveneet' nated to plywcrod or Masonite.Or', it can be made from plastic laminate (see plage 2'1)laminatedto plywoorlor Masonite. However, before getting RouT RABBET. to the tray's bottom, a rabbet has to be cut on the bottom edge of the frame. To cut this rabbet, I used a rabbeting bit on the ltiuter table, see Fig. 16. Set the bit to a height of Yi' anrl rout the rabbet around the entire insideperimeter.(Seepage2:i, for anotherway to do this.) Shop Note: Thc tlepth of the labbc't (shownas '/r" in I'ig. 1(i) is actualll' l'r,;" deeper than the final trav bottom thicknessto allow room for the colk liarls.
MARK OUTLINE OF BOTTOIVI. Af.tcr. thc

rabbet is routed, the tray bottom can be cut to fit. Placethe trav frame on the trav bottom. Then mark the outline of the rabbet, see Fig. U. Shop Tip for ply'woodbottom: If you're using hardwood ply'woocl,cut it to witlth and length (on the marked lines) on a table saw to get a smooth cut. Then sand the comers round on a disc sancler. ShopTip for laminatedbottom: If you're laminating veneer or plastic laminate, see Shop Notes, page 23, for sometips on cutting the laminate to match the bottom. FINAr STEPS. After the tray bottom is cut to shape, fasten it to the frame with brads. (If plastic laminate is usecl,it helps to drill pilot holesfor the brads.) Then glue the cork pads to the bottom, see Fig. 18. Finally, I sanded the tray with 240 grit sandpaperand applied two coats of polyurethane varnish.

WooDSMITH

1'1 tl

Cutting Round Cornens

BY STEP STEP
The easy way to make the rounded corners for the serving tray and clock is to lay out the radii on a piece ofstock and cut out the corner on the band saw. It may be the easy way and it doesn't use much wood, but I don't think it's the best way to cut corners. PR,OBtE'NS The problems with using this method have to do with the direction of the grain. Since the corner makes a 90o turn, there is an axea where the grain cuts directly across the narrow width, see Fig. 1. If there's stress on the corner. it might crack at this point. A tvEAK JoINT. There's another problem - the joints connectingthe corner piecesto the sidesare weak. On one end of the corner piece, end grain joins end grain. On the oppositeend, side grain joins end grain. Neither of these joints is very strong, and visually the side to end grain joint breaks the project's overall grain flow. 9rcoRNERst. Okay, so why don't you lay out the comers so the grain cuts dingonnLLy along the corner piece, rather than across it? That's just what I did, but there's a problem here too. To form a rectangular or squareproject, the ends ofthe corner piece have to be enad\y 90" to one another. The best way to make clean, smooth cuts at 90o is on a table saw or A WEAKCORNER direction I turned the square blocks 45'and cut them from a larger blank, see Fig. 2. To determine the size blank to cut these blocks from, first you need to know the desired outside radius of the corner. (As an example, we will use the ZVe"outside radius for the clock. The serving tray has a larger 3" outside radius). LAY OUT SQUmn. Draw a squareon paper with eachside of the square being equal to the desired outside radius (2W') plus Va", see Fig. 2. (Tlte Va" gives extra room for cutting.) wrDrrr oF Br,ANK. Aft,er the square is laid out on paper, measure diagonally across the square. This gives the wid,th of the blank that the four corner blocks can be cut from (3'%d' for the clock and 4Trc" for the serving tray). Note: The exact width of the blank can be calculated. Start by adding t/a" to the desired radius (2%" + Ve" : 2/a") and square the sum (2%" x 2Vq" : 5.A6). Then multiply that figure by 2 (5.06 x 2 : 10.12).Now, find the square root of your answer (square root of 10.12 : 3.181 which is equivalent to 3%0"). This figure will equal the width of the blank. IJNGTH oF Br,ANIi To determine the Lengthof the blank, multiply the width dimension times 5 and add 7" to allow room for the kerfs and some extra to hang onto when cutting, see Fig. 2.

radial arm saw, not on a band saw. In short, to make the corner pieces, I used went through a more dfficult process, more wood. but ended up with four attractive, strong comers. MAKING THEBLOCKS I cut the rounded corners out of square blocks, see Fig. 2. The square allows the two ends of the corner piece to be exactly 90'to each other and,there's a flat clamping surface for assembling the tray or clock, refer to Step 7 on the oppositepage. But to get the grain running the conect

.q

WIDTHOF EIANK ABOVE

{.OUTSIDE RADIUS (2Yr'FOR CTOCK)

(3'FC n nAY)

A SIRONGER CORNER

t8

WoODSMITH

CUITINGTHEBTOCKS Once you know the blank's width and length, cut it to size from 8/4 stock, see Fig. 2 on the oppositepage. (Or, laminate two piecesof 4/4 stock.) cur wAsTE.Aft,er the blank was cut to size, I started cutting out squareblocksto produce the corners. (The square blocks start as triangles, then the "ears" are cut off to produce a square, see Fig. 2.) To make the blocks, start by cutting a 45" angle off one end, see Step 1. firsf. oltachan auriliary fenceto the Shop Note: When using the table saw, II tnble sow tttikr gouaeond clamp lhc screw an auxiliary fence to the miter gauge. Then clamp the workpiece to the bLank to the .fenre. With, th,emiter gauge set at /15",cut, thp ettd oJJ'the blank. fenceso it doesn'tcreep,see Step 1. AfTCrthc fITStCUt TRIANGI,E. CUTFIRST is made, flip the blank upside dourr and atign the heel of the cut end u.ith the saw blade, see Step 2. Norv cut off a triangle, see Step 3.
CI]T REMAINING TRIANGLES. USC thc

GlNert, flip thc blank ouer so lht op.j pusiteedgeis agoinst theJerre. Tlwn al,ign th,eb\ank so thn b\ad"e cuts rlgllt tr.t th,eheeLoJ'tlrc waste (Jirst) cu.t.

same procedureto cut off three more triangles.Always line up the cut on the heel of the previous cut as in Step 2. After cutting four CUT THE SQUARES. triangles, I cut the "eat's" off to lltntluce four squareblocks. I found it easl' to make the cuts on the band saw, seeStep -1. tl A l l r r l l t , l i l r t t l t i s l i r t t t l r t 1 t ,t ' r r l u l . l , r To do this, clamp a stop block to the 9 1 , ' 1 n , , r , , , 1 , , r - s l r t r 1 tl ,t 'llt x ' k . ' l ' l r e r t , t ' t , t ' frtm the blarle miter gaugeso the distance (.flip bLank orcr eaclt to the stop block equalsthe desiretl out- ti;tze this pro(ess .fur,r trianol,eshrLuebeen cu.t. side radius plus %", see Step 4. Now, time) u,rtti.L stand the triangle on edge ancl cut the "ea/' off one side. Then cut the "ear" off the other side to make a square block. THE RADII Oncethe blocks are square, tape the four blockstogether and lay out the insicleand outside radii with a compass,see Step 5. The distancebetween the two ladii must equal the stock thicknessyou use ibl the stock side pieces. So, if you use )'Z,i'-thick frlr the sides,make the distancebetu'een the radii t'%ri'. Depenclingon the project, cUT KERFS. there are a few more steps involved with cutting kerfs and splines.To cut the kerfs for the clock, see Figs. 2 to 3 on page 21, and for the serwingtray, see Figs. 3 to 7 on page 15. INSIDE RADIUS. Aft,Cr thE KErfSATC CI,IT cut, then cut out the inside radius of the corner piece, see Step 6. The outside radius is cut after assembly. ASSEMBTY To assemblethe pieces, I started by connecting two corners to a straight piece by gluing splinesinto the grooves,and ciamping the piecestogether. The outsicleradii haven't been cut yet, so it's easy to clamp acrossthe corners, see Step 7. After the glue is dry, assemble the other pieces,then cut off the outside radius of each corter piece and sand smooth.

y,'{' 1",:'; :; 4 T:, :,: #"', o' "iy,w "'';:,:

Cl,arnp st,qt block so earh, sid,e of sqwrre equ,aLs th,e desi,red rudius pl,us '/i'.

I Tape the Jour sqtmre blocks logelher J ulith mnsk[nntane. Thertdran lhe inou,t th,e sid,eand, outsidi rad,ii of' th,econter piece c\ock or senrhry tray ar"ticle),ct.tt, insid,erad"ius on t,h.e band,saw. on the, blocks tuith, a com:Dass.

6 :m:ff;, i:lf ::: ,2",:#:'i,/!,1!' !,i

f Whcn assemblitwthp romer pieceslo f a sid,e piece,clamp ocross two cornprs with a pipe cLamp.Alig'n the clamp heads so eqtnL Wessure is directly in litw with

piece. To check if the two open, thp si.d,e erds of the crymer pieces align, hal"d o, straightedge across th,e end,sor stanl, the assembly up an a flat smfarc.

WooDSMITH

r9

\ hlt Clock
FRAME GREAT AROUND THECLOCK
Building the frame around this wall clock was only half the fun. The other half was seeing the different "personalities" the clock took on when I changedthe color of the face. The face on the first clock I made was red plastic laminate - perfect for a recreation room. White laminate would fit a kitchen, and glossyblack hasa modernlook for an office. (To order these three laminates and the other parts for the clock, see page 24.) But before decidingon the final color of the face, I made the frame with it's rounded comers. (There's a detailed stepby-step article on making the corners on pages18 to 19.) ROUND CORNERS The first step in making the corners is to Iaminate two pieces of 4/4 stock (r/d" to r't/r(' actual thickness) together to make a long blank, see Fig. 1. (Note: You could also use 8/4 stock. Just so the comoleted thicknessis 7t/2"to 1'%"ihick.) cLIT To sIZE. Aft,er the glue dries, cut the blank to a finished width of 3'hti' and length of 23", see Fig. 1. (The blank is this size to get the grain in the right direction and provide clamping surfaces. This is all explained on page 18.) To get the CLITFOURBLOCKS. four blocks for the corners, start by cutting a 45'angle offthe right end of the blank. Then cut offfour triarryular-shaped, blocks, see Fig. 1. Now to make sEmre blocks, I cut the "ears" off two sidesof the triangle with the band saw. DRAWRADII. Next, the round corners can be laid out by drawing radii on each block. To do this, I taped all forrr blockstogether and drew two circles (refer to Step 5 on page 19). First, draw a 2%" outside radius. Then, draw the insideradius so the thicknessofthe corner equalsthe thickness of the stock you plan to use for the frame piecesof the clock. (Sincemy frame stock was r'%c" thick, I marked an inside radius of lsAl', see Fig. 1.) FRAME PICCES Before cutting the corners to their final roundedshape,I cut the four frame pieces. The width of these piecesmust equal the thicknessof the square corner blocks, see Fig. 1. Aft,er cutting them to width, cut all fow pieces to a uniform lenglh of 7%".
)0

t=

Wooostutru

GROOVES Now the joints can be cut to join the flame pieces to the rouncl corners. I used a spline and groclve joint here. This requires cutting grooves in the mating cnds of each piece and gluing a spline in ther grooves. CIJT GROOVES. To cut the slooves in the frame pieces. raise the bladc to a height of 'K", see Detail in l'ig. 2. Then position the rip fence sti tire saw blacle is centerecl on the thickness of the frame 1rit,t't,. Once the blade is centered, cut:r gloove in both entls of all four fi'amc, pieces alu.ays keeping a common face against the fer.rce, see I'ig. 2. (When maliing tliis cut, I backeclup the workpirce u,ith a 2.r.1block, or you could use a tenoning.jig.) 'fhe cROoVE BLOCKS. .qrrroves in the cot'ner blocl<shave to match the grrxrves in 'lo the frame l)ieces. do this, Ilrl<l a frame piece ag:rinstthe errrl of ir eol'lrt'l' piece so it aligrrs with the radii lincs drawn. Then transfer the gttrover location onto tiit' corner block, sec l-ig. ;i. Now, movc the tablc, sari rilr l'cnce so the s:wv bla<le lines up u'ith the grlove lines. Then cut tlx) sl'(x)\'(,s itt t'lrcll cot'ncl' block, sce i)ctail in l.'ig. :i. (Notc: If the g'rfoovesare cut slightl.y ofT ccul.r:r',you can always t'erlraw the colnel radii.) SPTINES Next, I cut splines to fit the grrxrves. -!'or lhe strongest joint, the g'r'ainin the splines shoukl run the same direction as the grain in thc framer pieces. (When niaking the splines, I used the same kind of r,l'oocl, but you coukl use a contras[ing woorl to emphzsize the splines.) CLITSPLINES.To rnake tht' snlines. set the rip fenr:e so ihe rlirtattct,l't',rtn Iht, blarle is equal to the width of the grnove, see Step 1 in l,'ig. 4. Now makc two cuts on both, ends of a 4"-wide blocli. Then, to cut the splines off, set the fence so the distance fi'om the outside of the blade to the u'olkpiece end equals '21r" (that is, the combined depth of the two grooves), see Step 2 in l'ig. 4. I,'inally, tlim the splines to a rough width of l%" u'ith a chisel. ASSEMBTY There's one mol'e step bcfure assembl.y. Band saw the ius[de radius on each corncl block, see Detail A in l'ig. 5. GLUE UP ENDS. Now the ti'anre can be assembled. Stad by gluing and clamping two corner blocks to a frame piece. Tlien glue and clamp the opposite sitle and ct-rnnect these twr-r sections to con4tlete the frame. When the glue is chy, plane the splines off flush with the tolt of the flame. CTJTOUTSIDE RADIUS. To conlnlete the basic framc, cut off the outsirle railii on the foul corner blocks (see Detail B), and then sand the inside and outside radii smooth.
CUT CENTERED GROOVEON

DETAII.
ATIGN SIDE W I T HC O R N E R \ TAYOUTUNE5 )

AIIGN SAW BIADE WIIH LAYOUTMARi(S

coRNER BLOCX
RIP FENCE

,,)

-il
CUTTINGSPLINES

l/ .l '_
f \

l-

5PtINE BLANK (cur rRoM 4i4 srocK)

I
t

- 4,
l

y;'

--

EQI,IA|.S WIDTH oF cRoovr (r,a'J

SPt"tNE CORNER Bt"ocK

il

AFTER ASSEMBI.ING, CUT OUISIDE RADIUSFIUSH WITH FRAME PIECES, sEE DETAII, B

WooDSMITH

zl

%" ROUND OVER BIT - EACK EDGE

NOTE:
ROUND OVER FRONTEDGES ONTY _-

MOVE FRAME FROM TEFT TO RIGHTWHEN ROUTING INSIDEOF TRAME MOVE FRAME FROM RIGHT TO TEFT WHEN ROUTING QUIsLDE OF FRAME

6?

FINISHING UP THEfRAME Before you begin work on the face, there are a couplemore steps on the frame. ROUND OVER FRONT EDGES. FiTSt, round over both front edges of the frame with a %" round-overbit, see Fig. 6. RABBET BACK.Next. rout out a Vx"rabbet 1" deepon the back insideedgeof the frame to acceptthe face.To clothis, I used jig on the router table, see a pin-r'outing Fig. 7. (For more on the jig, seepage2i3.) CTOCKFACE After the rabbet is routed, the clock face can be macleand cut to fit. MAKIIrHE raca. I made one face out of t/r" plywood, then I triecl a couple more with plasticlaminateor burl veneerglued to t/i' Masonite. (Note: Laminate or veneei'can either be gluedto the Masonite beforeor afler the faceis cut to fit the rabbet, see Shop Notes, page2:3.) The <inly thing critical here is that the facematelial must be lesstltutt conrpleted 'y'"" thick. This alkrwsthe stem on the clock movernent to stick out the f'ront, and the %"-thickmovementto fit behind the face.
MARK AND CUT OUT F.ACE. Once the face

ctocK FACE r.AYour

.r*r'{'f ,o.,
FOR STEM

4,/t.r.,

DETAII

-'o'F -T
CTEAT

.-

l-.rt '.[

5h"

HOUR MARKER

material is cut slightly oversize, place the clock Ii'ame on the l)rce an<l mark the outline ol'the labbct, see I,'iq. 8. Now cut the lirce to ri-idth anrl length on a table saw. 'l-hrn slinrl the corrrels rlunrl on a rlisc sanrlt,r' Lrrrtilthev I'it the rablxrt. CF]N'I.F]IT HOLE AND MARKERS. I]efoTe trtoutttittg thc l':rct', I lairl out a ccnter hole anrl the |rcation o1'the houl mat'kers, see F ig. {). (Note: 11'youorrler the clock parts from Wrrorlsrttitlt, a face template is includerl, see page 24.) To lav out the l':rce, start by fincling the center point. Then draw a 4'lr" radius circle with a compass. Next, mark the locations of the 12, 3, (i, and 9 o'ckrckmarkers on the circle, see !'ig. 9. Then, use a protractor to mark out the rest of the malkers at 30" intervals. After the hour markers are laid oui, drill a %,i' center hole for the sterrr. FINISH. Befrrre fastening the face into the rabbet, I finished the frame (ancl the face if it's not plastic) with tung <-ril. ASSEMBI.EFACE TO FRAME When the firrish is dly you can mount the face into the fi'ame lvith cleats, see Fig. 10. GIVE IT THE woRKS. After scre'*'ing the cleats clown to hold the face in. mount thc 'nvorksin the back with the hanging bracket betu'een the movement and the face. MARKERS AND HANDS. The only thing ieft is to add the hour markers and the hancls. On page 24 we've given sources for golci-coloretl markers in both dots and clashes. You coulcl also make hour markels ft'om clowels, plugs, or screw hole buttons. Now, add the hands and the cap nut. Then it's time to hang up your new clock.

o a.1/',

WoODSMITH

SOME TIPS FROM OURSHOP

A DEEP RABBET When I was building the wall clock, I had to rout a %"-wideby l"-deep rabbet in the back of the frame to hold the face. The problem was how to cut a rabbet that size ajler the frame was assembled? Note: Before it's assembled, you can cut the rabbet on the straight pieces with a table saw. But the round corner sections have to be cut with a router, so you might as well wait until the frame is assembled. No RABBETTNG BIT. I usually cut rabbets with a rabbeting bit mounted in the router table (such as on the serving tray, see Fig. 16 on page 17). But most rabbeting bits ctJt a Vr" or %"-wide rabbet, and you need a l/s"-widerabbet cut 1" deep into the back of the clock frame. PIN RourER. For the rabbet in the back of the clock, I added a jig to my router table and turned it into a pin router. It's simply a pin held in a wood block directly abovea straight bit. As the pin follows the curved and straight sectionsaround the insi.d,e of the clock foame,the bit below cuts a uniform rabbet. The width of the rabbet depends on the location (relationship) of the bit to the pin, see drawing on right. To make the pin router attachment, cut a piece of scrap to a width of lYz" and. length of6". Then drill a hole near one end to hold the pin. Since I used a %" x 4" machinebolt with the threads cut off as a pin, I drilled a Ya" diameter hole. The important thing here is the relationship between the pin and the router bit. To cut a rabbet, the cutting edge ofthe bit must stick out from the edge of the pin. (Sincethe pin is attached to the fence, it's easy to move the pin slightly by moving the fence.) CUITING LATYIINATEA/ENEER TO SHAPE There are a coupleofoptions for the materials on the bottom ofthe tray and the face of the clock. You can make thesepiecesout of %" hardwood plywood. Or you can glue plastic laminate or wood veneer to the top of a t/q" Masonite or pllwood substrate. Cutting plywood to fit the rabbet in the tray or clock frame is no problem. But there are a couple of ways to approach a plastic laminate or veneer-laminated piece. You can first glue the plastic laminate or veneer to the substrate, then cut both together to fit the opening. Or you can cut the substrate first to fit the opening, then glue on an oversized top layer and trim it to match. GLUEFIRST. The "glue first, then cut to fit" approachis probably the easiest, but there are two disadvantages. First, sometimes the edge of plastic laminate and veneer will splinter or crack out slightly when it's being cut. this approachonly gives you one Second, chance at cutting the material to fit the opening. If you should cut undersize, you've wasted not only your substrate, but the top layer which may be an expensive veneer or your last piece of laminate. FIRST. Cu"T The approachI took on these projects was to first cut a substrate of inexpensive%" Masonite (or plywood) to fit the opening. If it didn't quite fit, I cut another until I got one that did. (Sincethe openingshave round comers, sometimesit takes a couplepiecesto get a good fit.) Once you get the substrate to fit perfectly, glue an oversize piece of laminate or veneer to the top. Then mount a flush trim bit on the router table and set the ball bearing on the bit to rub against the Masonite, see drawing. The cutter will trim the laminate or veneer per{ectly flush with the Masoniteand leavesa smooth surface.

Ebqe

OUT FROM EDGE OF PIN

ToptNc+t sN f
tN ptAcE

\IILA-/

Jiji |)

cur orr
THREADs

To make the pin height adjustable,don't glue it in permanently,just "pinch" the pin in place in the hole. To do this, first cut a saw kerf in through the hole, and about 1" beyond. Then tighten a screw acrossthe ked, to hold the pin in tight. SETTING up. Aft,er the jig was built, I screwed it to the top of the router table fence, and then set up to make the cut.

To cut the Vs"rubbet in the back of the clock frame, I mounted a %" straight bit in the router table and raised it l" above the table. Then adjust the pin (by moving the fence) so the bit takes a very light (%l') cut. (That is, set the edge of the pin Yrl' in from the cutting edge of the bit.) currING TIIE RABBET.Usually when I cut a rabbet, I make a light scoring pass backward"s first to prevent chipout on the top edge ofthe rabbet. But I wouldn't recommendit here. The bit is taking a deep (1") cut and it tends to grab and pull the wood through. So instead, I just made a couple of light (%e"-wide)cuts in the correct direction to get the %"-wide rabbet. But there's something else to consider here. Typically .you puih the workpiece acrossthe router table from right to left. It's different with the pin router. Sincethe workpiece is behind the bit, you have to pu,ll the clock frame against the pin and then move the frame from lefi, to right (clockwisearound the bit). This keeps the frame moving against the rotation of cut. ANOTHER usn. Shor"tly aft,er I used this jig for the clock frame, I found anotheruse for it. I used the jig to clean out a rabbet on an old picture frame to accept my favorite picture because the existing frame rabbet was too small. When doing this, make su,reall metal objects, nails, screws, Iead points and bits of glass are removed before cleaning out the existing rabbet.

FLUSHTRIM BITS.These router bits are typically used by countertop installers. Most cost between $15 and $20, but you can get a small one foom the Sears catalog (No. 9 Y 25413)for only $9.49.

Wooostrltru

23

Sources
CHRISTMAS ORNA'IiENTS The six basswood turning blocks, screw eyes, and full-size patterns are available as a package that includes two practice blocks. Extra blocks are available. You can also order a carving licrife. Omaments, Order No. 759-110, $15.95. This package includes: o (6) Clear Basswood Blocks, 2%" x ZYn",4Vz" long. o (2) Laminated Practice Blocks, ZVr" x ZVa",4W' long. (Glued up basswood blocks used for practice.) o (6) Screw Eyes, 7s" Iong. o (1) Full-Size Paper Pattern of all six omaments. Clear Basswood Blocks, Order No. 759-111, $2.50 each. Includes one extra screw eye per block. Min. order:3 blocks. Laminated Practice Blocks, Order No. 759-112,$1.50 each. Extra glued-up blocks for practice. Min. order: 3 blocks. Carving Knife, Order No. 759-120, $6.50. This is a shaping knife with a sheepfoot blade. Blade is Zlz"-Iong. Knife overall Iength is 67s". Ornament Pattern, Order No. 759113, $1.00. This is the full-sizepattem for the ornaments,see above. Sled Hardware (Red), Order No. 7594i20, $14.95. This has all the samecomponents as No. 75Y4I0 (mentioned first), except the T-molding is red color. Sled Wood (Brown Ash), Order No. 7594 , W.95. This packageincludesall the wood (Select Brown Ash) needed for the sled. (See the article on the sled for advantages of using ash.) Brown ash has a beautiful grain and is tanner than white ash. This packageincludes: o (2 pcs.) 13/rt:" x 6" - 36" (For the runners of the sled.) o (2 Pcs.) ta/rc"x 3' - 14' (For the cross braces.) o (6 pcs.) l' x 2' - 20:%'(Slats.) . (2) 3/4'x l8"-long birch dowels. Slot Cutter (1/ro"), Order No. 759470, $19.95. This slot cutter includes an arbor (Va" shank), bearing, and %o" cutter with three carbide cutting tips. TRAY SERVING nate tbr the clock face separately. Clock Face, Red, Order No. 759-650, $4.95. This is one piece of Wilsonart brand plastic laminate, 12" x 12", Red color. Clock Face, Vfhite, Order No. 759660, S4.95. See above, White color. Clock Face, Black, Order No. 759670, $4.95. See above, Gloss Black color. ORDERING INFORMAIION To order the project supplies,mail in the order form on the protective cover of this issue, or eall the toll-free number listed below. If ordering by mail, sendyour order and paynent to: Woodsmith Project Supplies P.O. Box 10350 Des Moines, IA 50306 Phone Orders: 90A444-7OA2. Customer serviceis availablefrom 8:30AM to 4:30PM Central Time, weekdaysonly. We acceptMasterCard and VISA credit cards. Allow 4-6 weeks for delivery. Postage and handling free. (Iowa residents arJd 4Vo salestax.) Pricesgoodthrough 12-31-88.

In the article on the serving tray we suggest using either plastic laminate or oak pllwood for the bottom of the tray. ALso includedwith these packages are four cork protector disks for the tray bottom. Serving T[ay Laminate, Red, Order No.759-510,$5.95.This inclucles onepiece of Wilsonart brand plastic laminate (HollyDISPTAYCASE berry, flat red) that measures 12" x 18". Since it's dfficult to find clear walnut and (This is larger than needed so it can be basswood, we are offering all the wood trimmed to fit the baseof your tray.) Also, needed for the display case, planed ar,rd includes tbur %"-dia. cork disks. Tlay Laminate, White, sandedto the thin dimensionsneeded. Serving Display Case Kit, Order No. 759-310, Order No. 759-520, $5.95. This is the $18.95. This kit includes: same package as above, except the lamio (2 pcs.) Vy''Wa)nut, Z't/a" x 18". nate is white (Frosty White). o (2 pcs.) %" Basswood,ZYz"x 16". Serving TYay, Oak Pl5rwood, Order o (1 Pc.) t/g" Basswood, ZVz"x 23". No. 759-550,$5.95. This packageincludes o (1 pc.) Vt" Walnut Plywood, good two one piece of Vq" (norninal) red oak plywood, 12" x 18", and four 7a"-dia. cork sides, 7%" x 73/a". . (2) l' Brass T\rrn Buttons with %" x disks. (The actual thicknessofthe plywood is slightly more than 3/rd'thick.) #3 Fh Brass Woodscrews. SLED The hardware needed for the sled is available as a package. The wood (brown ash) we used to buitd the sled is available as a separatepackage.Also, if you don't have tbe Yrc"slot cutter for the T-molding, be swe to order it separately. Sled Hardware (Brown), Order No. 759410, $f4.95. This packageincludes: o (f4 Ft.) T-Molding, fits in %0" slot, 19lro" wide. Brown color. (See next listing for red color T-Molding.) o (8) Joint Connector Bolts, 2%" long. o (8) Cross Dowels, s/rl,t' long, |g/sy'l diameter, to fit bolts above. o (14) Brass Fh Screws,p[illips Drive, #8 x L" (TVo extra screwsprovided.)

Woodsnith is now offering supplies for some ofthe projects that have appeared in earlier issues. For a eomplete description of what's included (wood is not included unIess specified), see the protective cover on this issue. Ifit's not available.call the tollfree number or write the address above. RECUIATOR CrOCK (#36) Regulator Clock, Quartz Clock Movement, Order No.73&11O $74.55. Regulator Clock, Brass Keywind Clock Movemenf Order No. 73&120, $99.95. GRADIE(#481 The spindles and buttons for the cradle are now available in oak, walnut or cherry. Each package includes maple la.robs. Cradle Parts, Oak, Order No. 74& 110, $49.95. Cradle Parts, Wa}nut, Order No. 74&120,S59.95. Cradle Parts, Cherry, Order No. 748-r3O,$54.95. WoRKBENCH(#5O) Front Vise and l{andle, Order 75&110,$114.95. End Vise and llandle, Order 75Dlm,$44.95. Wooden Bench l)ogs, Order No. 130, $10.95 per pair. Oak Drawer Pulls, Order No. 1-50,$12.95. Set of six pulls. No. No. 750750.

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The components neededfor the wall clock are available as four packages. All packages include one Quartz Movement and a Paper Template (to help locate the how markers). Then choosethe package that has the Hands (brassor black)and the type of Hour Marker (dots or dashes)you want. Wall Clock, Order No. 759-610,$9.95. (Brc,sshands, dnts.) Wall Clock, Order No. 759-620,$9.95. (Brc.sshands, d,ashes.) WaIl Clock, Order No. 7594:f0, $9.95. (Bl,trckhands, dnts.) Wall Clock, Order No. 759-640, $9.95. (Black hands, dashes.) You can also order a piece of plastic lami-

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