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STE1LL1 N G
ESSAYS
ON THE
ART OF WEAVING.
BY JOHN. DUNCAN,
INVENTOR OF THE PATENT TAMBOURING MACHINERY.
ILLUSTRATED BY
GLASGOW:
PRINTED FOR JAMES AND ANDREW DUNCAN % AND LONGMAN, HURST, REES AND ORME, LONDON,
I8O80
hK;
>^
TO THE
MANUFACTURERS OF CLOTH,
AND
OPERATIVE WEAVERS
OF THE
UNITED KINGDOM
OF
bj
ARE
RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED.
2013
http://archive.org/details/practicaldescriOOdunc
CONTENTS.
?ag
Introduction
Motives
Work
Objections considered
to the
Art of Weaving
Political
and Economical
....
...
.
.
ESSAY
I.
.....
.
.
..
2
4?
Winding,
Warping,
...
.
Warping
Mill,
.6
9
Operation of Warping,
Beaming,
.11
.
Drawing,
12
Weaving Loom,
.13
.
16
CONTENTS.
Rods,
Heddles,
...
PAGE.
*
.
18
ib.
....
.
21
24
. .
Dressing,
Weaving,
Treading,
.
...
the "Woof,
ib.
25
.
26
29
30
33
home
ib.
Faults in Cloth,
Calculations and Tables,
36
,
38
Warpers Table,
Ravels,
43
p
.
56
Beaming Table,
Setting of Heddles,
.
'
59
.
72
75
Setting Table,
80
ib.
Checks,
84
CONTENTS.
ESSAY
II.
General Remarks,
.85
,
87
Mounting of Looms
for Tweeling,
.....
.
.
.
.89
92 95 98
Arrangement of Treddles,
Breaking the Tweel,
.
....
. .
.99
.
100
.
Seven Leaves,
Eight Leaves,
Sixteen Leaves,
Stripes,
.
ib.
101
.
Tweeled
_
102
ib.
__
of Five Leaves,
. .
.103
.
Broken Tweeled
Design Paper,
.
Stripe,
. .
104
.105
Of
2 Sets, or 10 Leaves,
Sets,
. .
.
108
3 4 5 6
Sets,
Sets,
...
'
.111
.
113
.117
.
Sets,
.
119
.
122
CONTENTS.
PAGE.
Fancy Flushing,
Remarks,
125 133
Manu137
151
Serge Tweeling,
LIST OF
1st,
THE PLATES.
"Warping Apparatus.
Loom.
Mounting
for Tweeling.
7th,
Do.
illustrated
by colours.
Mounting.
CONTENTS.
ESSAY
III.
Introductory Remarks,
Carpets of two Colours,
.
.153
.
154?
Draw Loom,
Patent
,161
.
164*
.
Draw Loom, Comparison of the Draw Looms, Remarks on Mounting Draw Looms, Carpet Draw Loom,
. .
169 172
.174
.
176
Concluding Remarks,
.....
. .
.179
ib.
ESSAY
IV.
CROSS WEAVING.
Introductory Remarks,
....
.
181
Gauze,
182
.
.
Description of Mounting,
186
187
CONTENTS.
PAGE,
"Whip Net,
Mail Net,
199
200
202
204
Miscellaneous Observations,
205
ib.
Dropped Nets,
Spider Net,
206
.
ib. ib.
Concluding Remarks,
207
ESSAY
V.
SPOT WEAVING.
Common
Spots,
.
....
,
209
212 214
218
Paper Spots,
Allover Spots,
.-.-
Spot
Draw Loom,
.
Lappets,
Wheel
Lappets,
Pressed Spotting,
Conclusion,
220
221
222
ib.
224
225
CONTENTS.
ESSAY
VI.
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
PASS.
Introductory Remarks,
State of the Linen
227
231
Trade
in 1733,
Advance of
this
Trade
until 1784,
250
252
253
256
.
258
....
.
. . .
259
.
261
ib.
Dressing Machine,
Improvement
in
Looms,
262
263 266
267
Remarks on Dressing,
Cylindrical
Brush Machine,
at Barrowfield,
Experiment made
Hints for
its
Improvement,
270
272
Power Looms,
Wiper Loom,
Crank Loom,
Vertical
.....
. .
274
276
Loom,
277
282
283
ib.
Velocity of
Power Looms,
Modes
of inserting Weft,
Compressing of Cops,
....
.
Winding Machines
for Pirns,
284
CONTENTS.
ESSAY
VII.
MANUFACTURING OF CLOTH.
Introductory Remarks,
....
.
PAGE.
285
286
287
296 302
Caaming, or Sleying,
Remarks on
this
Theory,
305
318
319
321
ib.
ib.
322
ib.
Comparative Tables,
323
32^
325 326
Weavers' Glasses,
LIST OF
THE
PLATES.
Draw Looms.
Gauze Mountings.
Net Mountings.
Do.
Looms.
do.
Working Machinery
of
Power
INTRODUCTION.
THE
me
to undertake this
circulated.
The
great extent to
which
an object
of the
first
national
never been
A Variety of publications
chiefly designed
weaving*
But
authors of
all
these
was
fully
known
to their
were wholly, or
partially, ignorant
of Tables
for
purpose
of
facilitating
many
weaver.
Of
not at
all treat.
11
INTRODUCTION.
That these works have been found useful
for
the
most of them
sufficiently evinces.
But
it
seems
for
The
still
becoming
more
the
limited.
To
those
who
may appear
more
still
rash and
unfounded.
is
certainly true,
continue
both
operative
weavers,
may be
and
satisfactorily traced.
fifty
Forty or
years ago,
when
the manufactures,
a
afe
comparato linens
chased their
to fabricate
own
own weavers
it.
either plain or
own household
cloths,
good
This
it
is still
the prac-
many
is
gradually
upon
probability, must, at
no very distant
it
INTRODUCTION.
ployers or customers, to be acquainted with the
Ill
manner of
weaving
modern weavers.
But
this
manner of con-
The
great
and
ment and
no sooner
than
acted
on.
The
work
operative
who
con-
to another, will
who
is
employed
at
the same.
loss
produce
is
much
work
It
will
truth of
which
acknowledged by
all
writers on economy,
all
England
and Scotland.
The former
in
most
in the latter.
The
great majority of
mankind
which appears
at
the
accustomed
to
be
constantly
in-,
same time,
to
knowledge pf
his profession.
many
become nearly
IV
is,
INTRODUCTION.
in general, as ignorant of the
as
he of Paisley or Glasgow-
of a corduroy or velveteen.
is
The
division of labour,
however,
a
now
it
carried
still
further.
The mounting
of
loom
is
working of
many weavers
for years
upon
a loom, of
this
effects of
much
continue
no room to doubt,
it is
produceffect
tive of so
many
practical benefits to
society,
its
may be
of essen-
service in
many
situations,
and will
at least afford to
amusement.
Besides this consideration,
many
other circumstances
of Antiquarians, that
many
practised
by the
records.
ancients, have
want of such
In the orna-
The
kind
lie
ornamental
arts
are so
much
regulated by the
manthe
many
knowledge of
this
then existing.
When
knowledge
INTRODUCTION.
and when that instruction
is
more
Their
active duties
little
expectation can be
attention
is
formed of
naturally
its
general
diffusion.
more directed
is
no longer
in their
power
becomes doubly
it is
Labouring
which
lost,
fail
Of
is
this
the
a striking
Some
had
Paisley.
The
material employed
very beautiful.
was prosperous.
rapid decay.
contained in
itself,
the seeds of
The raw
material
was
costly,
and from
its
known
opera-
The goods
were, of
which
and want of
durability.
About
in conse-
was introduced.
The
muslins possessed
they
totally
were cheaper.-and,
as
the cotton
The
of
silk
and
considerable
laspe
years
VI
INTRODUCTION*
was
silk.
resumed,
branch of
know
and,
it
that the
is
progress of
remained
disuse for a
it
much
tervened,
The
arts of printing
facilities for
mechanical operations,
for the cheapest,
and
to these
we
ought
to look
easiest,
and most
effectual
to,
means of
which naand
which
are
much
increased by the
modern system of
economical arrangement.
Having
which led me
my
weaving,
shall
notice
against
my
first
undertaking.
of these
is,
The
secrets those
That
it
it
is
improper
to
divulge tJw
may
who
This doctrine
so justly,
and
now
little
I shall
occupy very
room upon
at
all
it.
It will
into
the question
absurd to suppose,
]that
a trade
which employs
so
many
for so
many thousand
years, either
or can be secret.
INTRODUCTION.
tween
artificers
Vll
of
all
evil.
Indeed,
it
is
man, where
advantage of
in return.
own
The balance, therefore, must always be in his favour^ With these short remarks, I shall dismiss this objection. The second objection which has been urged, although
it
may
is,
require a
little
more
The
objection
That by communicating
may
be
manufactures
may
become
less
productive.
Whether
which our
a general
arts are
known
abroad; and
whether
I confess
it is
possible to prevent
doubt.
extent,
in its fullest
entirely
little
economical arrangements
The
it
very
little
known, and
its
Enough, however,
it
is
known
to prove that
originated
in Britain.
The
silk
practised in
Vlll
INTRODUCTION.
improvements in them
and
all
we owed,
settled
who
amongst
To
is
the
only
acknowledged
of
silk,
in the cotton
is
still
disputed by other
countries.
We
find
that a
were invited
settled
introducing
" may be
" our
subjects."
into
Many more
were driven
Duke
who
settled in different
parts of the
Again, about
From
we may
in this
kingdom.
I believe,
now
entitled
"
" Treatise concerning the manner of fallowing of ground, raising of grass seeds, and training of lint and hemp " "
for the increase
factories in Scotland."
to
The
first five
chapters of this
agricultural
subjects y
the sixth,
INTRODUCTION.
treats of the
IX
bleaching.
The title of the seventh chapter is as follows Chap. 7. Concerning weaving of Linnen-Cloth
in
*<
1st,
What Looms
The looms
Kingdom.
for
2dly,
of this
3dly,
fit
for Hollands,
Cambricks, &c.
4thly,
for Cloth of
Normandy and
for
Brittany.
"
5thly,
fit
Reeds and
*(
Stuff.
" "
7thly,
The Cloth
as yet
made
in this
Country too
The waft
to
be somewhat
finer
than the
To
added
six coarsely
executed enfirst
is
The
and
is
called
The
side of the
French
The second is a perspective view of the same loom. The third is fi The side of a Loom called Estille." The fourth, a perspective view of the Estille. The fifth and sixth, are the side and perspective of the Dutch Loom. Of these looms, the Dutch is extremely heavy, and is
intended for the stoutest fabric, or holland.
" Loom."
The French
and the Es-
loom
tille,
is
The
construction of
them
X
those days,
or
INTRODUCTION.
to a modern,
weaver
loom wright.
rise
The back
loom,
modern power
These
looms.
we
have no preten-
sions to superior
of weaving.
The
their origin to
be foreign.
Cord du
roi,
Genoa Cord,
many
de-
from which
we
in
names
our
more recent
period.
It is not,
a chain of events,
that
and economical,
we ought
greatness of our manufactures, and their consequent circulation in every quarter of the globe.
liberal policy of
To
we owe
the
first
in-
we are indebted for much of their improvement. To these sources, we may trace the establishment
duced their gradual progress
easily found.
of
our cloth manufactures ; and the causes, which have proto their present state, are
at
zans r
his
whom
own dominions
disturbed.
Two
rebellions,
INTRODUCTION.
the only exceptions.
XI
and
country in Europe.
perty, arising
fidence,
The
tranquillity,
and confidence
produced enterprise
and exertion.
Our
uncommon facilities
we
whose
exertions
we
have been,
or wholly exempted.
little
While we have
have daily had
proceeded with
interruption,
we
The former
latter,
has
as a
The
capital
employed
in
them
is
immense, the
principles
upon which
their prosperity
machinery for
An
Xll
creature of a
INTRODUCTION,
moment.
It is
The
basis
perty.
Even
assume such
a political
Besides
improvement
is
still
most ex-
tensive,
men
of genius
and
link,
the
useful arts,
rapidly
In such a state,
I see
nothing to
whole
world; and,
own,
sanguine hope.
Would
Europe had
as little to
of her manufacturers. so
to
am almost apprehensive, that after employing much time upon this subject, many will be inclined
think, that I have raised a
phantom merely
pose of combating
it.
INTRODUCTION.
persons for whose judgment, on most subjects,
I
Xlll
by
have
much
doubt.
As
the question
is
at
some length.
I
have in view in
I shall
now
is
from another
is
by no means so great
are, properly,
may be
generally imagined.
There
only
two
plain
Besides
all
tweeling,
flushing,
and
the
first.
ornamental
varieties, are
is
Common
gauze
all
the
fanciful nets,
method of
first
but, in a
attempt
regular
arrangement,
think
it
more
particular.
have,
therefore,
allotted
branch which
differs in
and
which
is
The
which
first
is
Essay
is
by
far the
in
which
all
the
The
second, rebates to
tweeling
and flushing.
This
manufactured from
all
XIV
INTRODUCTION.
now work. The
are
It
second part
is
at the press,
in the printing
and en-
January 1808, and will consist of the following Essays: Essay 3d, will treat of the weaving of Double Cloth,
and &c.
its
will
also
Draw
Loom,
of
its
illustrated
by plans,
carpets.
dif-
The
Plates
and sections, necessary to enable a mechanic to compre*liend the nature of the machinery employed.
Plans of
branch of the
art.
which
will be investigated,
and
illustrated
by
plates.
And
manu-
operative weaver.
INTRODUCTION.
From
this abstract of the subjects of the Essays,
it
XV
will
appear that regular arrangement forms an essential part of the plan of the work.
has already been, and
instances, to deviate
tensive,
it is
am
still
it
may
be necessary, in some
from
this.
Upon
a subject so ex-
of facts which
may
be important.
Whenever
this shall
I shall,
without hesitation,
introduce whatever I conceive to be material and important, even out of the regular order ; for I conceive any
which deserve
to
be known.
In general,
am more
give
them
as such,
and
which have
induced
me
to adopt them.
With
much
will not
be expected in a work of
Me-
which they
are intended.
The
attainment
my
sole
aim; but
am
too conscious of
considerable difficulty,
which
attends a person
who
writes
upon the
in
art of
weaving;
difficulty,
all
companies descriptions of
especially those
is
the
to express our
meaning
are
used by weavers,
XVI
INTRODUCTION.
district,
and
in every
branch of the
to the
manufacture.
this part of
the
pany
all
or most of them,
are accus-
tomed
them;
much
diffi-
I attach to
which
have used.
In the course of
my
civility,
and have
liberal
whom
have applied,
and
which
whom I am
indebted
collected
much
The
lection of
is
upon
first
accompany the
therefore,
second.
GLASGOW,
ADVERTISEMENT,
THHIS
Jk
is
submitted to the
in
its
many
is
employed
in
all
those branches.
the insertion of
When
reduced to
its
original principle,
is
the case in
all
arts
The
errors
who
all
the knowledge of
no such advantage
any
upon the
subject.
With
parts
such disadvantages,
of this
it is
some
and others
I
superficial.
first,
XV111
ADVERTISEMENT.
and that
for
every
different
species
which
have
described.
difficulties
novelty, the
whole
Art of Weaving,
a
if
investigated in detail,
size
would occupy
which
work
far
beyond the
this
is
and price 5
those, for
whose use
The
taking
say
much
here
upon these
Part
is
The arrangement
five
of the Second
duction.
The
first
Essays,
comprehending Plain
Cross
Weaving,
Tweeling,
Double
Cloth Weaving,
may be
come
on
weaving department of
manufactory
of cloth.
The
nor, indeed,
known
would
it
satisfactory.
The
object
its
ADVERTISEMENT.
the exchange of
all
XIX
manufactured
state,
application of
human
art
and
industry.
the
of
that
species
of
simr-
materials
used in fabricating cloth from the rude to the manufactured state, tends to reduce the price
goods.
of the finished
where almost
In
this
am aware
that so
much
diversity of
opinion
for the
offer, as
it,
an apology
the importance of
society
which
may
derive
from
its
factures,
which
have introduced
same Essay.
The two
branches of weaving, by
most extensive,
however,
and for
this reason, I
can
in-
taken,
was attributed
to the late
Duncan Forbes
of Culloden,
a
man
uni-
his character.
XX
ADVERTISEMENT.
I
only-
differ in
The remainder of
of in
computation
many former
For
this reason I
My
am
task being
now
perfectly
may be
I
trifling
or errone-
To
must, of course,
attending
its
execution.
1808.
ESSAY
ON THE
I.
manufacture of
These,
and cotton.
which
tigate,
it
is
may be used, either separately, or two or more of them may be combined in the same fabric of cloth. The texture of all plain cloth is produced by the same
operation, and the only variation in the fabric, arises
from
The The
yarn, of
is
composed, consists of
two kinds,
first
which
shall
be noticed
afterwards,
is
wound upon
a cylinder
or
beam, and
By
the operation of
is
thrown
it,
to
form the
texture or cloth.
a representation of
a large
drawn upon
show the
intersections of the
warp and
woofj,
Z
plainly and distinctly,
ESSAY
I.
to be a pat-
microscope or magnifying
glass.
given quantities.
are different,
business.
in
The modes
the
several
of counting, however,
The
number of
also
splits,
or
which the
cloth
is
woven.
These
are differently
generally called
its
cotton yarn,
called
its sett;
is
number
and the
each
other,
As
the
investigation
of these
proportions
is,
more
properly, the business of the manufacturer, than of the operative weaver, a separate Essay shall be appropriated
for that part of the subject.
The
partsr,
of
in
many
it
seems
utterly impossible
by any
description,
however
elaborate,
It
would be equally
make
a perspective
drawing of a warping
PLAIN WEAVING.
without concealing
others.
3
and distorting
many
essential parts,
I
and other
These
are,
is
Istly,
sup-
and
at a
it.
2dly,
appear perpendicularly.
The
supposed
where the
the
first
name
elevations;
profile elevations.
3dly, Sections.These
may
be, either
on
a ground plan^
They are
to
used,
behind, or under
name of
horizontal sections ^
:
They when
by
when
when viewed
all
from the
front, or
and dimensions,
circular, or
which
are farther
is
it,
distinguished,
by having diagonal
lines
drawn upon
which form
ESSAY
I.
are so well
known, by
hope, hownot appear
that
the
introduction of
them
I
will
altogether
unnecessary,
when
state,
that
although
common
single
in
many
instance,
excepting,
may be
it
may be
proper
which
WINBING.
The common
deliver
it
to reel the
state,
to.
raw
At
present,
it
will
be
sufficient, to
material from
which cloth
is
made.
is
The
first
boiling
in the hank.
The
by
the
pot-ash.
To
PLAIN WEAVING.
latter,
its
is
added, to increase
When
been performed,
dried,
to
it
and the
is
is
customary
wind equal
is
This
common bobbin
merely,
wheel, which
so well
known,
that
it.
it
It consists,
is
which
a spindle
is
driven,
is
bobbin
is
The
yarn, to be
wound
WARPING.
The
is
it
wound upon
is,
the bobbins,
His business
again, to
wind
warp required.
The
length
is
a certain
pro-
warping
mill.
it
was the
is
The
he took
all
the
threads
in
his
them
to slip
end, where he passed the yarn over the pins fixed there.
O
and then returned
ESSAY
to the former.
I.
made
up, according to
the
the
in succession,
and
be troublesome and
inefficient^
in the
open
air,
and subject
in a house,
done
This,
probably?
mill: a
gave
to
the
invention of the
ip its construction^
warping
WA&PING MILL.
The
it,
circle, or rather a
is
polygon
wound around
form of
a spiral, or screw,
by which means, a
in a small compass.
may be produced,
Warping
and
circumferences,
the manufacture of
goods,
will
sufficiently
and these
will be
found
1. is a
in Plate 1,
Fig.
2. a profile elevation
of the
to the
a mill
is
common warping
same
is
letters refer
parts, in
both figures.
ells,
The circumference
1
of
If inches, or of an
pll
The
mill
is
built
PLAIN WEAVING.
such as represented
is
7
circular piece
at
A,
Fig. I.
The
in the centre^
The lower
is
fitted in
a socket,
in a
The
motion
communicated
its
to the mill,
by
a crossed
band
passing round
convenient.
The arms
which there
are 20,
L, and
mill,
and which,
The
arms or
radii,
numbered from
in Fig. 1.
distinguished
by
cross cut
wood.
numbered from
to 10,
whereas
as represented in Fig. 1.
It
E
a
the heck, as
it
is
usually called.
consists
of
steel pins,
with a
which
The
from
two frames
distinct
may be
raised at pleasure.
is
By
is
formed.
The
lease is
most
8
depends upon
it.
ESSAY
Fig. 3.
is
I.
more
distinctly, the
way The
of lifting
the
alternate
threads,
when
required.
polished,
for the
sake of smoothness,
and should be
through them.
is
fixed a convenient
direction,
is
number of
pins, in a perpendicular
:
and
at
equal distances
round
upon the
These serve
it
to guide the
into portions
which
are
On
is
which passes
round.
a perpendicular post C,
slides up, or
whole frame D
This
turned
is
effected,
by means of
the pullies
mill.
N, and
and
When
the mill
round the
axis
raises the
frame
D; when
turned the
is
allowed
Four small
inside of the
G,
bank.
Fig. 1.
a horizontal
commonly
called, the
By an
flat,
inadvertency,
it
straight or
but
it
every thread
G,
Fig. 2.
is
a profile
PLAIN WEAVING.
Two
mill, in
9
pass between the
cross frames of
wood
and
which the
pins I
is
Near
to the
upper lease
is
another pin
M, upon which
the warp
turned.
The frame
require.
but that
at
K may-
warp may
is
a mortise, into
fast
driven, to
it
may be
OPERATION OF WARPING.
The number
thread
The
The
I
mill
is
come
is
of the heck
then
left
lifted,
which
He
by
the other.
the
first
passing through
by
his
thumb.
is
thus
crossed,
formed.
He now
divides
ESSAY
form what are
I.
other, to
These are
he arrives
on the frame
at
Turning the
mill gradually
it
and
in a spiral
until
he has com-
number of
length of his
web
and
Upon
by
pin.
This lease
differs
from that
is
As
lease
to
preserve
The lower
where he
opens his heck as before, and places his yarn upon the
his
mill
When
has been
he secures
his leases
by tying
a piece of
twine
pin, cuts
away
threads,
links
it
it
off the
mill,
forms
into a bunch,
and
in this state
it
is
delivered
to the weaver.
In this
is
consists the
whole operation
of warping.
It
may
be broken
in the process,
PLAIN WEAVING.
that the broken threads
others.
leases
11
may
He
ought
sufficiently
warp
is
The
modes of
In the
mean time
is
we
shall
BEAMING.
When
manner.
warp
in the chain y
wind
it
in a proper
wood through
to this shaft
lower pins upon the warping mill, and a small cord tied
first.
This
gives
him
gangs
distinct.
When
this has
made
fast at
by
warp stretched
to its
proper breadth.
is
An instrument
I
then to be used.
partly for
because
it
differs in
much
may be
are
taken
oF,
spective
places.
Ravels,
like
reeds,
of
different
to be placed in an interval
between
two of the
pins.
The upper
part, or cape,
is
then put on
beam commences.
Two
12
ESSAY
r.
regularly
to keep
its
The warp
being regularly
wound upon
it
the
through the
called
DRAWING.
When
the
are in*
lease
pins
tied
is
by which the
lease
its
was secured
proper breadth.
The beam
dicularly.
is
placed behind.
it
The
is
the
its
order,
and deliver
it
to be
The
is easily
by the rods,
that next to
The warp,
after passing
through the
heddles,
is
ment
are applied;
is
the reed
is
by cords
to the cloth
beam.
dresses a portion
PLAIN WEAVING.
But before entering
it
13
may be proper
to devote
some
struction of the
WEAVING LOOM.
The
Fig.
most
essential
working parts of
this
machine are
Plate 2.
is
section of a
common loom
must be
and upper
which
may be
same loom.
as they appear
concealed or cut
away
in Fig.
1.
many
others
which
seen in Fig.
1. are,
hid in Fig. 2.
Fig. 3. Plate 3.
is
a transverse
section of the
same
the
roll,
and
all
must
be taken away, that the mounting and other parts contained in the figure
may be
seen.
The
lay
and reed,
which
are cut
away
in Fig. 4. Plate 3.
In
all
is
constantly
thus,
letter of reference,
and
in
by comparing the
shown
14
the various forms, in
ESSAY
which
it
I.
cross frame
is
not
may be
varied according
The dimensions
intended.
The
be performed; for
it
will
be obvious,
wood
rails
of a carpet, sailcloth, or
would prove
a useless incumbrance,
and
weaving of
It
is
sufficient,
therefore,
of strength
to
work which
is
be per-
formed; that
joints tight
the' parts
fitted to the
working
parts.
expensive plan
of construction, must in
The second
that
it
is,
not impossible, to
many
addi-
many
things
PLAIN WEAVING.
Mention of different parts of the frame.
15
Had
additional
to,
work
practical utility.
We
shall
now
as division of
much
to the extension
and simpli-
be shortly
be of im-
enumerated
It
will then
more
fully
The following are the principal working parts of the common loom: A, the yarn beam or roll, upon which
the
warp
is
wound; B,
the rods
The
rods,
as
was formerly
form the
first
stated,
which
lease ; that
the
alternately.
By
that
tion
from
on
in
is
either side of
it,
and
if
broken,
its
true situa-
the
warp may be
easily
This
much
is
care cannot
lease.
The
warp
into
what
usually called
two
interval
splits
of the reed.
close in-
spection
what
so as
are
drawn
16
to
ESSAY
show
the
1.
the rods.
way in which each thread passes between The third rod is commonly, although impro=
is
perly, called the lease rod, for all the rods are lease rods,
by
raising
warp
weft.
alternately,
D,
or rather
lay, strikes
home
rail
H,
and
KK the
motion to the
shuttle:
LL,
breadth, and
the cloth
to
is
beam
for receiving
when woven.
cords, are
feet to
them by
N, which
are
moved
is
by the weaver's
The
shuttle
is
by
it
to
in succes-
to
wood
perfectly sound*
can be
PLAIN WEAVING.
trusted.
17
beam
But
it is
to
any deviation
from
these, the
loom
will be defective,
cloth to be woven.
It is, therefore,
wood should be dry, and the iron axles into it before the beam is turned, and that
Upon
is
this
besides, of
if
the
the
first
beam bends by
may
cause
many
of them to be broken.
be convinced, that he
shots of
woof
The warp
means of
is
a cord
rolled,
One end
a joint at
of this cord
is
V, moving on
one end.
This
in Fig. 2.
and
parallel to the
it,
so that the
in a
may be
To
fixed a weight
W.
heavier weight
is
V, and
become
is
as this
weight
is
moved nearer
from the
warp
will
or greater as
may be
needful.
This apparatus
Id
called a pace.
essay
i.
In heavy fabrics,
it
is
still
the general
a stout pin,
custom
to tighten the
is
warp by means of
staff.
which
called a bore
The
yarn
beam
of looms
is
merely rounded
a
at
each end.
In the end,
at the right
hand,
number of
which an end of
is
drawn upwards
by
warp
is
sufficiently tight.
RODS.
As mentioned
is
When
them
ne*
When
The
this is
warp
and
loss of
time ensue.
made
or
is
convenient
described.
The
HEDDLES.
To weave
really
two
many
threads
re-
number of heddles
PLAIN WEAVING.
quired would be so great, that they would
together,
strain the
"be
19
crowded
and
friction,
For
universally
except
in
very
coarse
work.
now The
heddles are
made
together by
cords
to
which each
thin
heddle
flat
is
fastened.
shafts of
They are then stretched on two The upper edges of these wood.
at
four
or ends of
them
appear raised, and the back leaves sunk, for opening the
shed through which the shuttle passes.
clasped
these,
heddles
are
chiefly
is
used:
upon
a larger scale,
is
given in Fig.
Plate 3.
how
The
cross line
the heddle.
constructed
Fig. 2.
in
One
of
these
is
shown
in
which
The
represented in Fig.
1.
from above.
In the
although
m that view,
wooden
3.
parts, except
In Fig.
Plate 3.
which
is
seen,
On
levers
From
this
two
are suspended
by cords.
20
From one end
ESSAY
I.
hung
from each end of these jacks pass the cords which connect them with the upper heddle shafts. The cord
connecting one end of each jack with the heddles,
fixed to the first
is
and second
leaf,
Under
the
spring staffs
shafts.
Q, suspended by
These
joints,
cords
and these
is
derived.
The
other
is
When
the
same time
raised,
When
heddles with
eyes
jacks
are
is
may
Fig. 2.
now,
most generally,
lifted
The lower
are
pushed back by
moving the
thread
first
the second, the third through the third, and the fourth
When
it
becomes necessary
in the
rods, their
places
may be
and fourth
leaves,
first
given, and
by
PLAIN WEAVING.
reversing this,
first
21
By
raising the
we
first.
and third
leaves,
we
which are
and
either concealed or
in the plan
profile Figs. 1.
:
and
is
2. Plate 2.
The
parts
is
is
which
also
it is
is
which
kept in
place,
the lay,
which
are suspended
by means of cords
and
4. Plate 3.
When
By
come
a
shorter.
may be
into
proper working
Instead
is
of these
cords,
certainly a steadier,
II are
though
more expensive
plan.
The boxes
con-
fly shuttle,
which
sliding freely
it
then passes
The
drivers are
moved by
the cords
22
light shaft of
ESSAY
wood with
is
I.
groove
is
used,
To
each end
of this shaft
The
swords of the
lay,
and a cord
is
tied
The upper
supported above
it,
but
from
it,
weaver's
left
hand
to
work the
the weft
is
By this
contrivance,
when
These machines
In
still
the
upper
It
is
also
is
common
to use
one of which
The
splits,
warp
The
and
splits
of the reed
reed
split
are derived.
to
use brass,
and
sometimes
ever
What-
may be
have the
splits
The
much upon
the
the latter
is
neglected,
injured.
flat,
warp
splits
will
be frequently
The
but
This
PLAIN WEAVING.
allow any
small
23
much
easier,
The
set
fineness, or, as
is
it
is
called
among weavers,
splits
is
the
of a web,
of the
divided
five parts,
each containing
20
splits,
which
are
called
porters.
was considered
to
be 40 inches
was
probable,
owed
which
cloths.
it
was customary
to
weave these
different kinds of
The 40 and 34
now
very
little
The
this.
much
greater allowance
The
additional quantity of
Warp
therefore, allowed
by the manufacturer,
web, and
this
is
in proportion
to
regulated by
The
37 inches, and
it,
is
mode
of counting their
is
24
in use.
ESSAY
which they
I.
splits
each,
bares >
is
contained in 24 inches,
called the
number of the
reed.,
is
added
may be
brought,
nearly, to agree
TEMPLES.
The
is
kept extended
These
they can
By
this cord,
They
are kept
flat
by
on a centre.
1.
Plate 2.
One end
is
Behind
the temples
is
the
roll,
or
beam M,
for reroll,
when woven.
On
is
a ratchet wheel, in
which
rests a catch
on the yarn
tight.
When
the
warp has
can be done
up a proper quantity of
cloth,
then
shifts
back the
PLAIN WEAVING.
and proceeds with
a
bore.
25
called drawing
This
is
is
beam beam
is
itself is
placed below.
The
cloth passes
cloth
SHUTTLE AND
PIRN.
generally boxwood,
The
flat
shuttle
is
It
in centres.
Within
is
weft
is
wound
in the
form of a cone.
The weft
escaping
the cloth.
The
pirn
is
fixed
upon
may be
a representation of both.
silk,
common
warp
are
The
shuttle,
be incumbrances.
lay and shuttle
is
The
construction
of the
common
so universally
known,
thought
it
26
ESSAY
IV
OPERATIONS OF WEAVING.
When
and
all
in the loorrr>
it
into cloth
substances, require
the loom.
In these
rods, and to
pick
off,
in passing
The
the
clearing of the
is
warp
is
Comb, which
the teeth of
when any
is
obstruction presents
These operations
a
,.
further preparation to
this is called
fit
them
purpose of weaving:
DRESSING.
This
cotton;
operation
is
is
impossible to produce
work of
good
The
use of dressing
is,
to
it
give
to
yarn sufficient
weaving into
cloth.
It^
also,
by laying smoothly
the
PLAIN WEAVING,
ends of the
fibres,
is
27
material,
from
The
substance in
common
vegetable
simply a mucilage
of
These answer
the yarn both the smoothness and tenacity required; but the great objection to
them
is,
When
air,
dressed yarn
is
for
woven
some
This
brittle,
and
comparatively inflexible.
to weave,
.effect is chiefly
weavers of
indispensibly necessary to
To
which have
but
this
has not
probably,,
and because
superabundance of moisture
is
equally
is
so great
appears
difficult,
if
not impossible, to
any general,
stated as a fact,
which
conducted in the
28
open
air,
is
ESSAY
and exposed to
intense.
all
I.
which
We
day.
I
know
work
an
ordinary
summer
certainly,
country,
were
this
satisfactory
manner.
Neither does
it
is
of
much
however, opens a
wide
field
and promises to
who may succeed in supplying the desideratum. may be necessary to resume the consideration of this
by power, and
shall
dressing by machinery.
At
present,
we
proceed
common manual
process.
When
and to
It is
necessary to stop,
when
the dressed
room
may be
first
The
or
beam.
The
is,
executed
their
When
this has
been
done, the two rods nearest to the heddles, are drawn out
PLAIN WEAVING.
.of
29
the
warp
to
one
side,
and the
The
is,
to apply the
He
warp, and
motion by moving
warp which
opera-
It is
proper in
warp
any obstruction,
which might
wet
very
is
sufficiently dried, a
it,
brushed over
side,
its flat
forward to the heddles. The other rods are then put again
into their respective sheds,
is
finished.
WEAVING.
The
The
cloth.
very simple:
1st.
Opening the
sheds
in the
warp, alternately, by
opened.
This
is
30
the
fly
ESSAY
shuttle
is
J.
alternately, in the
common
it
operation.
home
the woof,
This
is
it
is
much
place,
into detail.
to
It
may be
fall,
notice the
are apt to
mistakes, into
mistakes occasion.
TREADING.
In the treading of a web, most beginners are apt to
apply the weight, or force, of the foot
much too
suddenly.
weaving
weak
yarn.
In weaving, as
in every other
reaction,
is
or force,
which
is
necessary to apply.
From
this
it
sustain a stress,
is
thread
is
subjected to
all
and sinking.
as yet,
But the
art of spinning
has not
been
a degree of perfection, as to
of bearing
its
PLAIN WEAVING.
and by practical experience, that when any body
be moved with increased velocity,
greater
it is
SI
is
to
necessary to exert
power
to
move
it;
and
this
in proportion to the
power,
pressure of the foot to the treddle, must cause a proportional increase of the stress
also of
the friction.
Now,
as
it
impossible to
make every
than
much more
to
attention,
more time
is
lost in tying
than would have been sufficient for weaving a very considerable quantity into cloth.
But
if
more threads
worse.
consequence will be
still
When
been broken,
it
no longer
it,
either breaks
:
them
also,
most frequently
does both.
The same
the
common among
This
weavers, especially
is,
that
greater
quantity of
work
is
will
be produced,
in
proportion as
rapidity.
It is
every motion
unquestionably true, that time will be lost by conducting the operations too slowly:
that there
is
but
it
is
equally true^
it
a rate of velocity,
beyond which
is
im-
What
it
believe,
Indeed,
82
ESSAY
fabric,
I,
the
weft
at the rate of
1200:
across the
to
Now
if this is
done 60 times
supposing no time to be
allow one
tying
fifth
lost.
But, as this
is
impossible,
threads,
changing
still
pirns,
and
other
necessary
operations, and
in
50 minutes.
Again, in a 1200 | web [even wefted),
let
the time of
weaving
a yard in lengthy
be computed
at
the rate of
40
this,
of one
in an
will be'
satisfied, that
at
than
is
No
allowance
is
made here
is
employed
in
These
tical
illustrations,
which
by the prac-
sufficient
The
subject will be
more
fully discussed,
when we come
to investigate the
methods
PLAIN WEAVING.
CROSSING
This,
like the
33
THE SHUTTLE.
much
the
But
if
is
It
woof
altogether, or to
if
unwind
it
from the
The woof
woven
cotton goods,
state.
is
generally
wet
fibres of the
effect is similar to
The
person
who winds
it
the
woof upon
be
well built, so as to
those used in the
unwind
freely.
is
The
fly shuttle,
that of a cone;
and the
thread ought to traverse freely, in the form of a spiral or screw, during the operation of winding.
The same
bobbins,
is
also
for
It
only requires
one end,
so con-
is
fixed.
The wheel
is
may be
fabric
is
of the
cloth
may be uniform
In the
in
common
34
ESSAY
I.
motion
is
similar
pendulum.
Now
effect,
in driving
home
For
this reason,
in
weaving
hung
is
would be proper
work.
The
The
wrought shot of
fell.
weft
struck up,
is
called
by weavers the
pivots,
to
be exactly
pendicular to the
two
lines.
But
as the
constantly varying
it
in its
situation,
during the
operation,
is
will
This
be,
when
a bore is half
wrought up.
also
From this, the following conclusion may The bores ought always to be short in be drawn
:
weaving
light
goods
*,
be the
arc, or
The
result of
stated above
is,
that in
But some
PLAIN WEAVING.
The
the closeness of their texture;
35
When
the
latter
of these
is
required,
the
his process,
The extreme
tightness
of the
is,
weft,
to a
is
a principal
certain degree,
Two
The
first is in
the mounting
By
referring
beam, upon
.the
Consequently,
half of the
warp which
rises,
sinks,
from
a straight line,
and be equally
stretched*
When
warp
to
is
caused
if
But
the
beam
is
at rest, will
no longer be
in a
the shed
is
drawn considerably
which
rises.
that
warp spreads
splits
in the cloth,
by the
The former
in thin
practised
work, the
When
36
the fabric the shed
is
ESSAY
Is
I.
is
may be
is
struck
up
as tight as possible.
is
But
in
shed
In consequence of
when
the fabric
is
wanted
It
which
to
in the
is
which
called
by weavers a
scobb.
This may
is
some
from
rising
or sinking regularly,
when
the shed
is
fairly
either over or
not at
all
two
form
a small scobb.
When
broken,
it
more frequent
fly.>
in
PLAIN WEAVING.
37
A
the
is is
name
is
This
and
beam
or cloth
beam
unavoidable.
Or
is
if
be not
hung
parallel to the
If the
loom
correctly
the fault
only to be sur-
mounted by
The
If
other
cloth,
inattention in the
threads
are inaccurately
There
is
more
uniform selvage.
is
The
sometimes,
the custom, to
warp
few
splitfuls at
many
to
kinds
common
practice
draw the
is,
That
to
The
threads,
selvages,
more drawn
splits
of
which they
worn
38
much
ESSAY
sooner than the others.
if
I.
A weaver
is
should carefully
the reed
injured, the
work cannot
the
be good.
When
in
when
webs
it
wrought
is
them
same breadth,
now
It
is
very
common
make
which
v/hich
may occur
weaving of
cloth, for
no
instruct-
skill,
which
As we have
what
is
properly
may be
to
When
the yarn,
which
is
form a warp,
it is
is
delivered
to the warper,
upon bobbins,
its
When
he has received
duty
is
to
calculate
how many
revolutions
of
the
mill
will
is
be
a
This
number
of
ells
in the
ells
Thus,
if
the
is
100
ells,
acquainted
with arithmetic,
that
20 revolutions
will
If an
even number of
PLAIN WEAVING.
revolutions does not produce
difference can be easily counted, each interval
39
between
mill,
the standards,
being | of an
is
as formerly stated;
Thus,
ells,
if
warp
76-| ells,
15 revolutions produce 15
and con-
7 intervals more, 1|
ells
will
making
in
all
76|.
To
is
necessary to add
The
fell
thrum
is
the weaving
finished,
a succeeding
web,
is
if
the
new web
exactly of the
same
set
new warp
drawing
it
afresh through
the
mounting.
This
is
or ornamental work.
The
One and
a half intera
is
common
is
to calculate
how
often he
must
number
of threads
The
quantity of yarn
wound
upon the
mill, in
is
and returning,
or bout.
As
the breadth
two threads,
splitful of
warp,
ESSAY
Hence
it
I.
number of bobbins,
bears to the
number of
porters required.
For every 20
repeated.
Therefore,
20, to reduce
the
if
the
number of
to splits,
by
them
number of bobbins,
bouts.
number
is
of mill gangS) or
for example, a
is
Warp
to
contain 93 porters,
to
be run with
X 20
1
4
Or
100
= 18^
the
Of
bins,
and
mill
if
number of
for,
18-1
20
5 and 93
=
is
In the
second,
first
it is
splitfuls; in the
splits,
porters,
is
who
little
who
are.
is
formerly published.
in
former
appear
in
general
to
have
been
more
where
form
is,
who conduct
small businesses
what
is
to
PLAIN WEAVING.
of consequence, frequently limited in the
41
number of
his
same time,
it
may be rendered
mode
The
will serve
The
20
first
(of
splits
each) from
to 150.
The number
of bobbins,
number
marked
mill
1
is
The column
to
contains the
run a
The
number
run
As an example,
is
to be
first
column,
and 110 from the top, will give 20-80, signifying that
the warper
is
to
may
1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
this
table,
at intervals
The
The
first
column of
bobbins
how
must be turned
bobbin.
to
And
this, in
less
than
3000 times.
It is
But besides
this.,
42
this
ESSAY
I.
splits
contained in
give the
the
number of
two
porters opposite to
splits,
it.
It also will
hand
figures.
Those on the
splits.
then
hundreds
save a calculation.
The second column, being exactly one half the first, may be used to obtain the number of splits one chain, when the warp consists of two, which
2dly,
of
in
is
warper
who
is
number
of his bobbins,
operation.
when he comes nearly to the end of his The small numbers may, therefore, be of
and
if less
useful to those,
scale,
whose operations
are conducted
on an extensive
To
the latter,
seems unne-
cessary to
columns
They
are
warping with
many bobbins
them
as their
bank or heck
will
what
to a merchant,
or banker.
WARPERS' TABLE.
44
ESSAY
I,
WARPERS*
CO
4-J
5-1
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
'
2 10
4
5
10 4
8
15
1-5
30
40
j
20 40
6-2
13-1
2 4
6
8
2
3
20
30
10
15
2-10 4
5-5
1-10
60
80
20
26-2
33-1
12
16
1-20
4
5
40
50 60
70
20
25
2-20 2
3-10 2-20
100
120
140
20
24
28
32 36
10
12
6-10
8
6
7
8
40
46-2
53-1
30
35
14 16
18
9-5
4-20 3-20
5-10 4
6
160
180
80
40
45
50
55
10-10
12 13-5
9
10
11
90
60
66-2
73-1
4-20
40
44
48
52
20 go
24
26 28 30
32 34 36 38
6-20 5
7-10 5-20
8
14-10
16
17-5
12
80
86-2
93-1
60
65
70
75
13
14
15
280 140
56
18-10
60 64
68 72 76 80
20
21-5
7-20
16
17 18 19
80
85
10-20 8
90
95
24
25-5
12
12-20 9-20
40
42
26-10 13-10 10
105
84
88
28
29-5
14
10-20
22
23
44
46 48
14-20 11
92
96
32
33-5
16
12
50
16-20 12-20
PLAIN WEAVING.
45
TABLE.
C/5
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
4~>
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
2
3
.4
1-10
1-30 1-20
1-10 1-30
1-50
1-40
1-20
1-10
6 7
8
2-20 2
1-40
1-60
1-30 1-50
1-70
1-20
1-10
2-40 2=20 2
1-40
1-60
1-30 1-50
1-70 1-90
9
10
11
3-30 3
4
2-40 2-20 2
1-80
1-80
1-100
2
12 13
4-40 4
3-30 3
2-20
14
5-30 4-40 4
6
5
2-40
2-60
2-80
15
16
17
3-10
2-100
3
18
19
3-60
3-30
3-50
3-70 3-90
4
3-20
3-40
20
21
C)C)
6-40 5-50 5
6
4-40 4
8-20 7
3-60
3-80
8-40 7-20 6-20 5-40 4-80 4-40 9-10 7-40 6-40 5-60 5-10 4-60 9-30 8
10
23
4-20
3-100
4
24
25
6-60 6
5-30 4-80
4-40
4-60
4-20
46
ESSAY
I.
WARPERS
BOBBINS, OT RUNNERS.
'
10
15
30
40
26
27
52
34-10 17-10 13
54
56
36
37-5
18
13-20
28 29
18-20 14
58
30
31
150 120
60 40
62 64 66 68
41-5
20
15
620 310 206-2 155 124 640 320 213-1 160 128 660 330 220
165
20-20 15-20
42-10 21-10 16
33 34
132
44
45-5
22
16-20
22-20 17
35
36
37
48
49-5
24
18
74
76 78 80
82
24-20 18-20
38
39
760 380
253r-l
190
195
152
156
50-10 25-10 19
52
53-5
26
19-20
40
41
Tii
26-20 20
210 168
84 86
88
56
57-5
28
21
43
860 430 286-2 215 172 880 440 293-1 220 176
28-20 21-20
44
45 46
47 48
49
58-10 29-10 22
30
22-20
225 180
90 60
92
61-5
30-20 23
94
96
64
65-5
32
24
98
32-20 24-20
\
PLAIN WEAVING,
TABLE.
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
P
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
120
4-40
26
27
28 29
7-50 6-60 6
7
5-40 4-100
4-60
11-10 9-20 8
4-80
4-100
5
30 12
31
5-50
12-20 10-20 8-60 7-60 6-80 6-20 5-70 12-40 10-40 9-10 8
13-10 11
5-20
32
33
5-40
5-60
34 35 36 37
5-80
11-40 10
6-40
5-100
6
14-20 12
10-20 9
7-20 6-60
7-40 6-80
38
39
40 16
41
13-20 11-30 10
8-80 8
7-30
6-100
7
42
43
17-10 14-20 12-20 10-60 9-50 8-60 7-90 17-30 14-40 12-40 11
18 15
7-20
44
9-70 8-80 8
9
7-40
7-60
7-80
7- 100 8
45
46 47 48
12-60 11-20 10
8-20
18-20 15-20 13-10 11-40 10-20 9-20 8-40 18-40 15-40 13-30 11-60 10-40 9-40 8-60 19-10 16
13-50 12
49
19-30 16-20 14
8-20
8-40
50 20
9-10
ES SAY
Yti
WARPERS*
CO
J-l
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS,
1
<V
4-1
5-1
10
15
30
34
40
25-20
68
69-5
34-20 26
106
72
73-5
36
27
36-20 27-20
74-10 37-10 28
76
77-5
38
28-20
58 1160 580 386-2 290 232 59 1180 590 393-1 295 236
38-20 29
118
80
81-5
40
30
40-20 30-20
124
126
82-10 41-10 31
315 252
84
85-5
42
31-20
64 1280 640 426-2 320 256 128 65 1300 650 433-1 325 260 130
42-20 32
88
89-5
44
33
44-20 33-20
90-10 45-10 34
345 276
138
92
93-5
46
34-20
140
142 144
146
46-20 35
360 288
96
97-5
48
36
73 1460 730 486-2 365 292 74 1480 740 493-1 370 296 75 1500 750 500
1
48-20 36-20
148
i
98-10 49-10 37
50
37-20
PLAIN WEAVING*
TABLE.
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
CD
49
50
60
70
80
90
100
110
9-30 9-50
120
8-60
8-80
51
20-20 17
9-70
9-90
10
8-100
9
I* 21-30 18
55 22
15-30 13-40 12
10-80
9-20
9-40
9-60 9-80
58 23-10 19-20 16-40 14-40 12-80 11-60 10-60 59 23-30 19-40 16-60 14-60 13-10 11-80 10-80
9-100
0 24
61
20
17-10 15
13-30 12
10-100 10
10-20 10-40 10-60
63 25-10 21
15-60 14
12-60 11-50
10-80
11-90
10-100
11
66 26-20 22
67 26-40 22-20 19-10 16-60 14-80 13-40 12-20 68 27-10 22-40 19-30 17
69 27-30 23 70 28
71
11-20
11-40
11-60
23-20 20
17-40 15-50 14
12-80
11-80
72 28-40 24
20-40 18
16
14-40 13-10
12
25
13-70
ESSAY
I.
WARPERS"
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
o
Ph
1
2
I
4
3*80
10
15
30
40
76 1520 7601506-2
52
39
54
40-20
82 1640 820 546-2 410 328 83 1660 830 553-i 415 332 84 1680 840 560
58
43-20
60
45
62
46-20
64
48
97 1940 970 646-2 485 388 194 129-5 64-20 48-20 98 1960 980 653-1 490 392 99 1980 990 660
196 130-10 65-10 49
66
49-20
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
CD
S-i
51
BOBBINS,
01*
RUNNERS.
100
1
o
ft
50
60
70
80
90
110
120
12-80
12-100
13
13-20
13-40 13-60
80 32
26-40 22-60 20
17-70 16
14-60
81 32-20 27
23-10 20-20 18
16-20 14-80
13-100
14
84 33-30 28
4
24
21
85 34
15-50
14-20
14-40 14-60
14-80
14-100
15
90 36
30
25-50 22-40 20
18
16-40
91 36-20 30-20 26
15-20
15-40
37-30 31-20 26-60 23-40 20-80 18-80 17-10 31-40 27-10 23-60 21-10 19
17-30
95 38
15-100
16
96 38-20 32
27-30 24
16-20
98 39-10 32-40 28
99 39-30 33
100 40
16-40
16-60
16-80
28-20 24-60 22
33-20 28-40 25
22-20 20
18-20
52
ESSAY
I.
WARPERS'
CO
J-l
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
1
CU
-4-
u O
10
15
30
40
103 2060 1030 686-2 515 412 206 137-5 68-20 51-20
104 2080 1040 693~1 520 416 208 138-10 69-10 52 52-20 70 525 420 210 140 105 2100 1050 700
106 2120 1060 706-2 530 424 212 141-5 70-20 53 107 2140 1070 713-1 535 428 214 142-10 71-10 53-20
72
54
109 2180 1090 726-2 545 436 218 145-5 72-20 54-20 110 2200 1100 733-1 550 440 220 146-10 73-10 55
111 2220 1110 740
74
55-20
112 2240 1120 746-2 560 448 224 149-5 74-20 56 113 2260 1130 753-1 565 452 226 150-10 75-10 56-20
114 2280 1140 760
76
57
115 2300 1150 766-2 575 460 230 153-5 76-20 57-20
78
58-20
119 2380 1190 793-1 595 476 238 158-10 79-10 59-20
80
60
80-20 60-20
162-10 81-10 61
82
61-20
|
124 2480 1240 826-2 620 496 248 165-5 82-20 62 125 2500 1250 833-1 625 500 250 166-10 83-10 62-20]
1
PLAIN WEAVING,
TABLE.
u
<u
+~l
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
50
60
70
90
100
110
120
16-100
17
102 40-40 34
17-20
17-40
30
19 -10
19.
17-60 17-80
30
70
90
60 23- 70 21-40
24
21-60
19 50
19. 19-
17-100
18
108 43-10 36
30-60 27
18-20
18-40
20 20
111 44-20 37
31-50 27.
18-60
28
80 22-40
25- 10
20-
40
18-80
22-60 20- 60
18-100
19
IH
45-30 38
80
20. 1001
115 48
19-20 19-40
19-60 19-80
17 46-40 39
33-30 29- 20 26
23-40
21.-30
19-100
120
40
34-20 30
26 -60 24
21--90
20
20-20 20-40
20-60 20-80
123 49-10 41
24-80 22 60
25
22
20-100
ESSAY
I,
WARPERS
EOBBINS, OT RUNNERS.
5<
10
[
15
30
84
40
63
127 2540 1270 846-2 635 508 254 169-5 84-20 63-20 128 2560 1280 853-1 640 512 256 170.10 85-10 64 129 2580 1290 860
86
64-20
86-20 65
660
264 176
177-5
88
66
88-20 66-20
134 2680 1340 893-1 670 536 268 178-10 89-10 67 135 2700 1350 900
90
67-20
92
69
139 2780 1390 926-2 695 556 278 185-5 92-20 69-20
94
70-20
142 2840 1420 946-2 710 568 284 189-5 94-20 71 143 2860 1430 953-1 715 572 286 144 2880 1440 960
190-10 95-10 71-20
96
72
145 2900 1450 966-2 725 580 290 193-5 96-20 72-2Q
146 2920 1460 973-1 730 584 292 194-10 97-10 73
147 2940 1470 980
98
73-20
100
75
PLAIN WEAVING.
1 ^ABL E,
55
BOBBINS, Or RUNNERS.
5-1
O
Ah
50
60
70
36
80
90
100
110
120
126 50-20 42
31-40 28
25-20 22-100 21
21-20 21-40
21-60 21-80
130 52
23-70
21-100
i32 52-40 44
37-50 33
29-30 26-40 24
22
22-20
22-40
45
38-40 33-60 30
27
24-60
22-60 22-80
138 55-10 46
23 23-20
140 56
46-40 40
35
31-10 28
25-50
23-40
23-60
23-80
141 56-20 47
23-100 24
24-20'
144 57-30 48
145 58
41-10 36
32
146 58-20 48-40 41-50 36-40 32-40 29-20 26-60 147 58-40 49
42
36-60 32-60 29-40 26-80
24-40
24-60
24-100
253
150 60
50
27-30
56
ESSAY
wind
1.
When
and he prepares
it is
necessary,
ravel
is
number of the
which he ought
ascertained by the
to use.
The number
scores
of the ravel
number of
200 pins
of 20 pins each.
is
Thus
in
36 inches,
called a ten
score ravel.
If,
therefore, a
it
contains
But,
if,
web
number of
half
gangs,
is
to
be of a greater breadth,
if
The
difference, is
found by an inverse
proportion: for,
As 16
So
is
the
number of
nails in a
yard
Is to the
number of
number of
half gangs,
nails in the
the
breadth proposed
To
the
number
From
Multiply the
number of
required.
warp by
nails, in the
breadth
The
number of
to
the ravel
sought.
For example,
let
warp which
is
be beamed if
236 X 16
19
198if
pins or 9
The
fraction
counted in 4ths
shorter.
may be made
In the
first
case, multiply
:
by the number of
8ths,
PLAIN WEAVING.
Upon
But
is it
51
is
Beaming Table
calculated.
must be noticed
some allowance
to
number of
pins
which
The
part of a
warp which
is
wound upon
it,
the
for
which cannot
Therefore,
it
will
may be produced. That is to say, the breadth of the warp upon the beam ought to be, as nearly as possible, the same with that at the reed, when
average breadth
the process of beaming
is
half finished.
It is
impossible
more than a
web web
more than
a fine one.
The
Table, therefore,
is
calculated
ances
left to
Some
web,
roll pieces
a certain
When
this is
may be beamed
the end.
This Table
is
same way
as the
"Warpers' Table.
The
column upon
each page.
contain the
number
The
as a fraction of a yard.
58
the
ESSAY
number of
line,
I.
first
same
the
number of the
instructed to have
it
beamed
~|
wide-,
by referring
to
the Table, he will find in the same line with 270, and
is
the exact
will then
number of the
ravel,
He
In the breadths not exceeding J, or yard, the calcula^ tion is only carried on until a 16 score ravel would be
required.
It
is
to
go
farther, for
even
this
much
to
made,
It is
common
practice.
not
common
is
make
ravels nearer in
is it
number
to each
few
pins,
the warp
may be
to
easily
in
the beam.
By
and by
is
BEAMING TABLE.
60
ESSAY
I,
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
I i
o
6
^6
7
8
4 4
50
52 54 56
58
4
4-3
3-12
3-6
3-1
2-17
3-15 3-9
3-18
4-1
3-4
4-6
4-9
3-12 3-6
3-14
3-17
4
3-8
3-4
3-6
3-8
3-11
2-18 2-14
3
60
3-4
2-16
62
64
3-10 3-6
3-13
3-8
3-2
2-18
3
3-4
66
68
3-2
3-4
70
72
4-13 4-6
3-14
3-10 3-5
74 76
4-4
5-10 5-1
5-13
5-4
4-13 4-6
3-11
78 80
82
6-4 6-8
4-3
3-13
5-16 5-6
4-5
3-15
6-11
5-19
5-9
4-13 4-7
3-17
3-19
4
4-2
84
86 88
5-12
4-16 4-9
4-18 4-11
5
4-4
4-6
5-14 5-5
5-17
5-8
6-8
4-13 4-8
90
92
7-4
7-7
6-10 6
6-13 6-2
5-10 5-2
5-13
5-5
94
96 98
5-2
7-16 7-2
6-10 6
5-12 5-4
4-18 4-12
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
61
2-4 2-6
2-8
*'6
4
i
1-16 1-17
1-19
2
3 i d"
6
4-
50
52
2-2
2-3
2
2-1
1-18
1-14
1-16 1-17 1-18
2
2-1
1-13
1-8
1-9
1-19
2-1
54
56 58
2-5 2-7
2-8
2-3
1-10
1-12
2-9
2-4
2-6
2-2 2-4
2-5
2-11
2-2
2-3
1-13
60
62 64
66
68
2-13
2-10 2-8
2
2-1
1-14
1-15
2-7
2-8
2-5
2-6
2-3
2-4
2-2 2-4
2-5
1-16 1-17
1-18
2-5
2-7
2-9
70
72
3-2
3-4 3-5
3-7 3-9
2-6
2
2-1
2-17 2-14 2-12 2-10 2-8 2-19 2-16 2-13 2-11 2-9
3
74
76 78
3-2
2-2
3-4
3-5 3-7
3-9
3-2 3-4
3-5
80
82
84
3-11
3-12
3-2 3-4
3-5
86
88
3-16
3-18
4
4-1
3-12 3-8
3-2 3-4
3-5
2-18 2-10
3 3-1
90 92
94 96
98
3-2
2-11
3-4
3-5 3-6
3-8
2-12 2-13
4-3 4-5
4-7
3-2 3-4
2-14
2-16
3-5
(J2
ESSAY
I.
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
1G0
102 104
106
108
I
i
i 3
i i
4 4
I 7
i
7-5'
6-13 6-3
4-14
8-3 8-6
7-8
6-16 6-5
6-8
5-2
4-16 4-17
7-11 6-18
8-9
7-14 7-1
6-10 6-1
6-13 6-3
4-19
5-1
5-15 5-8
5-17
110
112 114
6-15 6-5
5-10 5-3
5-12
5-5
6-18 6-8
7
5-19
7-12
5-14 5-7
116
118
7-14
5-16 5-9
5-18
6
5-11
9-8
8-11 7-17
120
5-12
122
124 126 128
5-14
5-16
5-18
6
8-5 8-8
6-12 6-4
6-14 6-6
6-16 6-8
10-4
10-8
10-11
130
132
7-8
7-10 7
7-13
7-2 7-5
134 136
138
6-14 6-6
6-16 6-8
9-17 9-1
10 10-3
8-7 8-9
7-15
7-17
9-4 9-6
9-9
7-7
7-9
6-18 6-9
6-11
7-2
140
142
11-4
11-7
10-6
7-11
6-13
144
146
148
11-10 10-9
9-12 8-17
7-13
7-4
6-15
6-17 6-19
PLAIN WEAVING.
63
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
100
102
104'
ii
r
~T5
T
:ui
4-8
l-l
4
4-1
3*16
3-17
3*12
3-9
2-17
4-10
1-5
3-14
3-10 3-8
3-12
3-13 3-15
3-9
2-18
4-12 4-7
4-14 4-9
4-16
1-10
4-3
3-19 3-15
4 4-2
4-3
1-5
2-19
106 108
4-4
4-6
l-s
3-17 3-18
I
3-10
3-12 3-1
3-2
110
112
4-17 4-12
4-1
3-14 3-4
114
4-16 4-11
4-17
1-6
4-2
116
118 120
122
5-3
4-12 4-8
4-4
1-5
3-17
3-6
5-4
5-6
4-2
4-3
3-18 3-7
4
4-1
4-16 4-11
4-7
3-S
3-9
5-8
5-2
4-4
124
126 128
4-2 4-4
4-5
3-10
3-12
3-13
4-16 4-11
4-7
5-2
130
132
5-15 5-9
5-17
5-11
5-4
5-5
3-14
3-15
4-16 4-11
4-17
4-8
134
136
5-2
5-3
4-13 4-9
3-16
5-14 5-8
138 140
142
6-2 6-4
6-6 6-8
5-12 5-6
5-13 5-15
5-8 5-9
5-1
4-17 4-13 4
5-3
144
146 148
5-4
5-6
6-9
6-2 6-4
5-16 5-11
5-18
6-11
5-12 5-7
5-2
ESS JAY
1.
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
150
152 154 156 158
I
o 6
1
4-
i i
s
(5
4 4
12 12-3
10-18 10
11-1
9-4
9-7
8-11
7-10 7-1
7-12 7-3
10-2
8-13
8-2
8-4 8-6
12-6
12-9
11-4 11-6
10-5 10-8
9-9
8-16
8-18
9-12
12-12 11-9
10-10 9-14 9
9-2
8-8
160
162
164
8-10 8
8-12 8-2 8-14 8-4
8-17 8-6
8-19 8-8
9-1
7-10
7-12 7-14 7-16 7-18
9-7
166
10-4
9-9
168
12-4
11-4
10-6
10-9
9-12
170 172
174
13-12 12-7
11-6
9-14
9-16
8-10 8
8-12 8-1 8-14 8-3 8-16 8-5
8-18
8-7
10-11
9-3
176 178
14-4
14-8
180
182
12
11-1
10-5
10-8
9-12 9
8-9
14-11 13-4
12-2
12-5
11-4
11-6
11-8
9-14 9-2
8-11
184
186
188
14-14 13-7
8-13
9-18 9-6
9-8
8-15
8-16
190
192
15-4
15-7
9-10 8-18
9-12 9 9-14 9-2
9-16 9-4
194
196 198
15-10 14-2
15-13 14-5
10-6
10-9
11-4
11-6
15-16 14-8
13-4
12-3
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE,
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
i
65
9
6
2
I
ii
8
23
1
150
152
154
156
158
6-13 6-6
6-15 6-8
6
6-1
5-14 5-9
5-4
5
5-1
4-5
4-6
6-16 6-9
6-3
5-2
4-8
4-9
6-18 6-11
7
7-2
6-4
5-13
5-8
5-4
5-5
6-13 6-6
5-14 5-9
4-10
4-11
160
162 164 166
168
5-16 5-11
5-6
6-3
4-12
4-13
6-4
6-14 6-8
6-16 6-9
170 172
174 176
178
7-11
7-3
7-12 7-4
7-14
7-6
7-8
6-17 6-11
6-5
5-16 4-19
5-17 5
7-16
7-18
8
8-1
6-14 6-8
6-15 6-9
6-2
6-3
7-9
7-2
5-18 5-1
6
6-1
180
182 184 186 188
7-11
7-4
7-5
5-2
7-13
5-4 5-5
5-6
8-3
8-5 8-7
8-8
7-14 7-7
7-16 7-8
6-2
6-4
5-7
5-8 5-9
190
192 194
196
198
7-12 7-4
7-13
7-6
7-15 7-7
7-16
7-9
6-14 6-9
5-10
8-14 8-5
8-16 8-6
7-2
68
ESSAY
I.
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half
Gangs.
I
i
Q
6
I
i
5f
17
i
200
16
14-10 13.6
14-13 13-9
12-6 12-8
11-8
10-13 10
9-8
202
204
206
9-10
9-13
208
210
212
214?
10-8
9-15
12-18 12
13
13-3 13-5
11-4
11-6
10-10 9-17
10-12 9-19 10-14 10-1
12-2
12-4
15-11 14-5
11-8
216 218
15-14 14-8
12-6 12-9
220
222 224 226 228
10-10
10-12 10-14
11-6 11-8
15-4
12-3
230
232
15-6
15-9
14-3 14-5
13-2
12-5
12-7
11-10 10-16
11-12 10-18
13-5
13-7
234 236
238
15-12 14-8
12-9
11-14 11
240
242 244
11-5
11-7 11-9
13-18 13
14-1
12-4
12-6 12-8
246
248
15-2
13-2
13-4
11-11
15-5
14-3
11-13
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
8
i i
67
9 6
5
4-
2
I
2
8
i
200
202
204
8-17
8-8
7-12 7-5
7-13
7-6
7-8
8-19
9-1
8-10 8-1
8-11 8-3
6-14 5-15
6-16 5-16
7-15
206
208
9-3
8-13 8-4
7-3
6-17 5-17
9-4
8-15 8-6
7-4
7-6
6-18 5-18
7
7-1
210
212
9-6 9-8
8-16 8-8
8-18 8-9
8-11
7-12
7-14 7-15 7-17 7-18
8 8-1
6
6-1
7-7 7-8
2H
.216
9-10 9
9-12 9-1
9-13
9-3
8-3
7-2
6-2
6-3
8-12 8-4
7-10 7-4
7-11 7-5
218
8-14 8-6
8-16
8-7
8-9
220
222
9-15
9-17
'
9-5
7-13
7-6
9-6
8-17
224
226
228
9-19 9-8
10
6-8
7-10 6-9
7-12 6-10
7-13 6-11 7-14 6-12
10-2
10-4 10-6
10-8 10-9
230
232 234
236
8-7
8-10
7-16 6-13
7-17 6-14 7-18 6-16
8 8-1
238
10-11 10
8-14
8-16 8-17 8-18
9
6-17
6-18
6-19
7
7-1
9-15 9-5
8-2
10-18 10-7
11
9-16 9-7
9-18 9-8
8-11
8-4
10-8
8-12 8-5
68
ESSAY
r,
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
I
i i i 6
i 3 i 6
7 8
i
J-
4 4
I 7 i 6
250
1 -
15-7
14-5
13-6
13-8
252 254
256
258
15-10 14-8
-
T -
12-4
12-6 12-8
r
-
13-4
13-6
15-4
14-3
12-10
12-12
15-6 15-8
14-5
14-8
13-8
270
13-10 12-14
272
274
276
278
280
14-18 14
15 14-2 14-4 14-6 14-8
13-3
13-5
15-2
15-5 15-7 15-9
13-7
13-9
13-11
L -
290
14-10 13-12
292
294
296
298
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
9
"8 i
i
69
I 0"
I'6
6 4
250
252
-254
11-2 11-4
11-5
9-10 9-1
%7 mm
J. j^j
8-13 8-6
7-2
9-3
7-4 7-5
9-13
9-4
9-6
9-7
256 258
-260
11-7
9-15
9-16 9-18
11-9
9-9
8-13
7-8
262
11-12 11
10-9
8-14 7-9
8-16 7-10
264 266
268
11-14 11-2
11-16 11-4
11-18 11-5
12
12-1
10-11 10-1
10-12 10-2
10-14 10-4 10-16 10-5
10-17 10-7
8-17 7-12
8-18 7-13
9
9-1
9-14 9-6
9-16
9-17
9-7
270
11-7
11-9
7-14
7-15
272
9-9
274
276
-278
12-3
7-16 7-17
7-18
8
12-5
12-7 12-8
10-10 10
10-11 10-2
9-12 9-4
9-13 9-5
280
282
10-13 10-3
9-14 9-6
9-16 9-8
9-17 9-9
8-1
284
286
288
8-2
11-8
9-12 9-13
8-4
8-5
290 292
294
296
298
10-10 10-1
10-12 10-3 10-13 10-4 10-15 10-5 10-16 10-7
12-19 12-5
13-1
9-14 8-6
12-7
13-3
12-9
11-16 11-5
13-4
8-10
ESSAY
I.
BEAMING
BREADTHS OF WARPS AND
Half Gangs.
T
i i I 6
i "6
I 5 i <5
4 4
I 7
i
300
302
'
16
-
15 15-2
14-2
-'
14-4
14-6 14-8
304
306
308
15-4
15-6
15-8
14-9
310
312
J-
314
316
318
320
322
-.
15-1
324
326 328
*
m -
mm
15-8
330 332
334
<ri
15-10
15-12
15-14
15-16 15-18
16
-
336
38
340
342
"
344
346
348
r -
"
1
PLAIN WEAVING.
TABLE.
NUMBERS OF THE RAVELS.
Half Gangs.
2.
2
i I
>r
71
1
i
300
302 304 306
308
13-6
12-12 12
11-8
10-18 10-8
10
1
8-11
13-8
12-14 12-
8-12
8-13
10-11 10- 2
11-13 11-2
10-12 10- 4
8-14
8-16
8-17
11-14 11-4
11-1
10-14 10- 6
10-15 10- 6
10-17 10- 8
310
312
11-5
11-17 11-6
8-18
8-19
314
316
318
12- 11
1212121212-
11-19 11-8
11-9
10-18 10- 9
13-6 13-7
12 12 14 12-2 16 12-3
17 12-5
10-19 10- 10 9
10- 12 9-1
10- 13 10- 14
10- 16 10- 17
10- 1*
14-2
11-11 11-1
320
322 324 326
328
14-4
13-9
13-11
11-12 11-2
11-14 11-4
9-2
14-6
14-8 14-9
9-4
9-5 9-6
9-7
13-12
19 12-6
12-8
11-15 11-5
11-17 11-6 11-18 11-8
11-9
13-14 13
13-
14-11 13-16
2
4
12-9
330
332
14-13 13-17 13
12-11 12
11
11. 1
5
7
12-12 12-1
12-14 12-2
12-4 12-5
12-7 12-8
11-10
11-12 11-13 11-15 11-16
334
336
338
11- c l
-
9-10
9-12
14-18 14-2
15
14-4
14-6
8 12-16 13 10 12-17
13
13
11. -4
11. -5
11.
9-13
9-14 9-15 9-16
340
15-2
12 12-19
13 13-2
S
-8 -9
342
344
346
348
14-7 14-9
13 13 15
11-17 11
12-10 11-19 11
12-11 12
11 -10 9-17
15-9
14-13 13 -1
13-5
12-13 12-2
11 -12 9-1
72
The
weavers,
ESSAY
only other table,
is
IJ
generally used
by
operative-
Few
to
which
they
a
may be employed
set,
weave
to
cloth.
Therefore,
when
any
be woven in
a reed of
particular
and
finer
The supernumerary
may be
a
the same.
weave
is
In
plain, that
200 of
his heddles
must be
apparent,
at
set aside.
little
make
it
that these
set aside
whole
set aside in
breadth
in'
But
it is
For,
if it is
Therefore,
when
is
to
which
and
are divided, as
filled
5
equally as possible,
this is called
among
by weavers
of heddles.
set,
in
to*
number of
and
PLAIN WEAVING.
these
73
must be
are to
are to
be
set aside,
among
is
the 1400
which
with warp.
This, also,
proportion
As
So
the
number of heddles
number
to
to be set
Is to the
is
be
filled,
= =
= =
200
1400
1
one heddle to be
set
To
From
and one
the
number
to be filled
7
filled,
this, it will
As both
all
breadths of warp.
is
And
as
one of the
SubstraCt the
number of
number
of the heddles.
the
The
number
be
filled,
which
is
the same
number
to be set,
and
But
to
to
it
number of heddles
be
be
set,
filled
that
is
When
to set
remainder
is
to be
added to the
be required
For example,
let it
1300 heddles
is
to a
1050 reed.
difference
sum
of the half-
21: therefore,
r5=
filled,
1.
Now,
this
remainder of
every
of heddles to be
are to be filled
to
fifth
and
1 set,
be
filled
and
1 set,
74
It is
ESSAY
not frequent
I.
now
reed
this-
porters,
will then
For example,
1100 heddles
is
the
sum
47
in porters
4<
therefore,
5,
fill
6 heddles
In the above
examples,
the
it
made
necessary to observe,
each leaf
is
to be understood.
appeared in
part of
them
will never
it
may be
set so easily,
may be
by small degrees.
and one of
as great
a reed of 400,
420
splits is
^th; and
make
For
this reason,
the Table
in
SETTING TABLE,
76
Heddles.
ESSAY
Reed.
!
I.
Reed.
Draughts,Time^
H. 5
P.
H.
Z>.
Z>.
T.
1
Z).
T.
H. p.
H. P.
5 5 5 5
1
D.
T.
Z).
T\
1
4 4
4
1
4 5
7
11
6
6
8
1
1
1 1 1 1
4
1
6
7
5
5
5
6 6 6
6
2
3
6 9
14
3
1
1
2
3
2
1 1
2 10
1
4 4
1
12
15
5 o
4
1
24
4
5 7
6 5
5
30
2
3
10
3
4 4 4 4
5
4
2
1
1 1
6 6 6
2 2 2
5
5
1 1 1
1
2
3
6
8
2 2
7
9
10
1
1
10
5
5 5 5 5 5
5
12
6
6 5
2
2
3
6
6
5 5
1
15
25
2
3
31
5
2 2 2
2
4
5 8
3
1
2
3
2
3
1
6
8
3
1
4
4
5 5
6 6
3 3
1 1
6
6
1
10
15
12
1
13
6
6
3
3
1 1
1
16
2
3
3
26 4
6 8
6
5
2
4
32
5
7
5 5 5
5
5
4
4
5 5 5
2
1
6 6
4 4
6
8
4
2
6
6 6 6
5 5 5
1
1
2 2
1
2
1
1
4
4 4
10
16
111
Q
3
3
13
2
3
2 4
27
4 6
6
5
7
33
2 2
3
5
5 5
4 4
4
5 5 5
4
1
7
7 7 7 7 7
5
1
3
3
5
8
3
1
4
4 4
2
1
2
3
5
1 1
5 5 6 6 6
6
2
3
13
1
1
14
5
5
4 4 6
5 5 5 5 5 5
28
5
6
6 6 6
1
10
1
6
9*
2
1 1
1
7
7 7
8
11
2
3
2
3
10
16
1
1
1
2
1
14
17
29
7
i
34
PLAIN WEAVING.
i
77
Draughts >,Times
Heddles.
Reed.
Reed.
H. P.
7
1
1 1
H.
5 5
5
p.
1
D.
r.
Z>.
T.
H. P.
7
7
PL p.
5
D. T. D. T.
2
3 3
4
1
4 4
4
2
3
9
3
7
7
2
3
6 6
1
6
1
4 4
5
4
6
1
4
5
4
1
7 4
3
1
1 1
4
5
7
7
4 4
4 4 4
2
3
4
5
3 3
1 1
7
7
6
6 6 6
1
6
6
7 7 7
7
6
7 9
6
8 11
4
1
1
7 7 7 7 7
6
8
4
3
7
7 7
1
1
2
3
12
18
1 1 1
1
1 1
6
7 5 5
5
17
4
4
2
3
19
7 7 7 7
38
4 4
5
2
3
2
3
3
O 8 3
7
1
8 8 8 8
6 6
2
3
2
2 2
4
4
5
6
7
4
1
2
1
7
7
4
1
5
5
2
1
2
2
6 6 6
5 6 8
11
6
7
8 8
8
8
7
7 7
2
3
12
19
2 13
1 1
7
7 7 7 7
2
3
3 3
2
1
2
2
4 2
3
39
3 3
6
7
7
2 12
1
1
1
1
2
2 2
6 6
8
3
2
6
2
2
3
3 3 3 3
17
1
18
8 8
4
5
36
2
3
6
7 7 7 7 7 7 7
7
4
5
4
1 1
7 7 7 7
2
7
8
8
2 2
2
4
4
2 6
3
6
7 8
3
1
2
2|
3
2
3
4
5 6
8 11
4 4
2
2
1
1
1
8
8
2
2 2
7
7 7 7
7
7
6 6
6
7 7 7
2
3
6
7
2
3
9
13
3
2 10
1
1
3
3
9 12
9 9 9 9
i
I
3
3
3
4 4
5
!
18
7 7
2
-"2
3
1
5
Q
37
ESSAY
Heddles.
I.
Reed.
Reed.
Draughts ,Times
H. P.
H.
7 7
P.
Z>.
T.
D. T.
H.
11
P.
H.
P.
D. T. D. r.
4
3
3 3
1
10 10
17
2 18
1
4
1
11 11
21 21
3
9
9
8 8 8 8
8
10 14
17
3 11
1
10
26
54
3
27
11
10
9
9
9
1
1
9 9
9
%
3
1
1
1
12
21
22
12
3 10
4 3 4
4
5
4
1
44
4
5
12
5
5
4
3
8
1
1
10 10 10
o o
4
6 2 6
12
12
9
9
2\
3
8
8 8 8
2
2|
3
6
5
7
2
1 1
4
5
5
o
o o
6
6
7
11
12 12 12
12
4
1
5
3
4
6
7
6 6 4
10 10
10 10 10 10 10
11
11
10
10
4
1
2
2 2
2
2j
6
7
4
1
9
9
2 12
1 1
1
10
10 10
11 11 11 11
11
15
19
12 12
3
1
9 9 9
8
8 8 8 8
4
3
4
1
24 49
3
12 12
14
19
1
1
12
25 23
3
1
1
3 13
2
4 4
12 12
13 13
29
59
3
11
2
9i r5
3
3 10
11
11
11
11
3 5
2
7
10
2 9
1
4
3
5
1 1
10
10
4
4 4 4
13
5
1 1
2 21
3
9 9
9 9 9 9
1
4
5 5 6
61
13
13 13 13
10 10
4
7
5 5
11
11
8
1
6
6
7
7
5
1
2
21
3
7
1
10
11 11
11
5 10 6
1
4
5
11 11 11
11
2
1
6
1
13
13
6
7
8
7
8
7
2
1
4
1
5
1
9
13
2
21
10
12
13
11
PLAIN WEAVING.
Heddles.
79
Drau ght! Times
,
Reed.
Reed.
H. 13 13 13
P.
H. P.
11
Z>.
T.
D. T.
H.
P.
H.
11
P.
D.
3
T.
D. T.
5
1
9
10
2
5
1
15
15 15
2i
3
2
7 5
11
4
1
11
11
3 10
4
3
12
15
3 16
1 1
1 1
4 11 4
1
13
12
12 12
20
21
15 15
12
12
12 13 13
2'
13 13
13
91 25
3
5 10
5
i i
31
32
15
15
Or
12
64
3
6 2
7
8
14
14 14 14
10
10
10
1
15
9
9
3
1 1
3 13
15 15 16
13 14
11 11
n %
2|
2
2\
3
3 16 3
1
?* 29 2
3
3
10
4
5
1
14
14
14 14 14
14
10
10
11 11 11 11
3 15
3 10
4
4 4
2 6 2
16 16
12
12
13
3
1
1 1
16 16
4 4
4 2
3
3 5
3
1
4
5 5
2
2|
3
5
3
16
16
13
<2\
6
9
2
1
4 4
6
7 7
2
2
4
7
14 15
12 12 13 13
2^ 10
^a 31
3
2
1
14 14
14
11
11
5 10 5 7
16
17
4
1
2
7
3
2 2
12
12 12 12
12
13
6
8 8
2 6 2
1
17
17 17
17
n
2i
2
1
14
14
2
2-1
2
1
4
3
4
5
1
1 1
14 14
14
14 14 15 15 14
2|
2
4
4
1
4
1
10
16
2 11 2 17 2 23
1
4
1 1
17
6
8
5 7
17
17
1
1
14
14
13
13
11
22
10
3
2 11
1
1
2\ 27
3
18
4
4
15
18
18
14
15
<^a
5
5
6
ft
15
11
3 15
80
Having
fesSAY
I.
now becomes
many
descriptions are
woven
in
if
any,
cloths.
is
The
extent to
which
this species of
manufacture
carried,
renders
it
so small,
that
it
may be
weaving, with
violation of arrangement.
As
of the reed;
follows, that
if
yarns
at regular
be
dif-
when the web is finished. Yarns of different colours may also be introduced and when either of these
;
is
STRIPES.
Stripes
are
formed upon
cloth, either
by the warp, or
by the woof.
When
ways
is
prac-
of
the warper:
it
is
In extensive
manufactories,
made,
it
common
to
form the
warping, because in
will be
when
PLAIN WEAVING.
In warp stripes, where the colour
difference
either
is
81
is
may be produced,
by drawing
a given
by using yarns of
different fineness, or
a greater quantity of
warp through
stripes
number of
heddles or
splits,
where the
are to be formed.
more
heddlefuls
may be drawn
be
split
may be
adopted.
way they
called one
are generally
drawn by manufacturers,
this, the
as guides to the
warper.
Of
portion from
to
is
cessively, will
form
web.
care will
is
to occupy,
and
the
two
ticket, or pattern,
receives.
For example,
let
warp dyed
stripes,
between the
of
Blue
splits
11113
3
3
3
Total 10
9 Total 33
White
splits
Thus
43
it
splits,
two
in each split,
With
this
ESSAY
time that the mill
is
I.
run from the upper to the lower pins, and the same
in returning; or every
sets of the pattern.-
many
bobbins, he
preserve
must
set, to
The
inconvenience
is
unavoidable.
Again,
his
if
he has a
and
if
large
enough
to contain the
which
will save
much
is
The arrangement
modes,
Blue Bobbins
2
3
|
2
3
6
6
2 6
White Bobbins 18 6 6
1st \ set.
18
18
6
set.
2d
\ set.
in
3d |
The above
explanation of the
way
which warpers
mental decoration,
effect,
is
often hap-
com-
When
this is the
case, the
his ends,
ment of
his bobbins,
still
or
Patterns
of the
manu-
PLAIN WEAVING.
In warp stripes,
part, to
it
83
is
mounting of
additional
coarse, or
rest.
little
care
also required
in dressing,
that
the
as fully
smoothed
as the
When
of
web by
must have a
woof which
at
is
to
change these
Figs. 5, 6,
and
may be
shifted
lay,
when
with two
sets of boxes,
which
by means of
two
cranks, connected
by
Near
to the
middle of
shifts
this
a small handle,
with his
hand,
when
Fig. 6. is
a front elevation of
one
show how
repre-
To
attached, a part of
which
is
The
fastened to a spring
(generally a piece
Fig. 7.
is
a profile
same boxes.
The
reference
4.
as
usual,
between
method of working
stripes
at
and
woof
proper
84
When
webs
ESSAY
are striped
I.
&c.
also
by the
CHECKS.
The
patterns of checks
in the
may be
either
similar,
is
or
dissimilar,
The former
the
two methods of
and
striping, require
no further description %
a
as they contain
most frequently
mixture of colours,
taste
and fancy of
upon
whose business
merely to make
from
silk,
all
and cotton.
When
bosom of
It is
very
common
left
only, the
bosom being
is
plain.
the check
work
only at the
ESSAY
ON THE
II.
r^HIS
-*-
its
name from
is
the French
word
touaille>
is,
almost
exclusively,
confined to
it
The
application of
in the
It
is
much used
species of ground,
ornamental decoration.
of these properties,
ourselves.
To
first
we
will,
confine
it
has been
alternately.
This
is
Tweeled
many
different descriptions.
is
In the coarsest
fine
tweeled
silks,
88
what
ESSAY
it
II.
may be
proper to explain
flushing.
When
is
or woof,
By
by any
description.
as
Jn Fig.
1.
to
a specimen of
a
plain cloth, as
Fig. 2.
may be
considered as a representation
1.
from
tacked
down by
Now
were
this cloth
That
is
An
inspection
and
at regular intervals.
To
is
produce these
effects, a
number of
leaves of heddles
number
of threads contained in
Thus,
when
is
to
are required;
necessary, and so of
the others.
For
by the num-
&c.
The specimen
in
Fig. 2.
is
TWEELING.
TTweeling
ing of cloths
is,
87
.to
In
many
instances, applied,
the weav-
For instance,
tion of
bed and
table linen,
is
In
it
tweeling
is
very
common.
Sometimes
is
employed
more frequently,
is
is
most com-
may be
will
be
containing
For,
in the
materials.
thread
is
Now,
in the latter
where they
is
are interwoven 5
flushed,
must depend
The
in
woven.
Let the
first
The
But,
if
by
88
strength^
ESSAY
we
II.
most
effectual,
common
web
idea
equally used)
Would be
plain
This
is
the
commonly, although
strength,
word
when
common
its
strength,
and partly
upon
its
flexibility.
It is not, therefore,
operation,
but in the
of combining a greater
we are to look for superior This may be easily illustrated. strength or durability. When the shed of any web is opened, every thread either
mode
of weaving affords, that
sum of all these resistances will be the whole resistance. Now, in plain weaving, every thread is interwoven, and
therefore, opposes
its
four
leafed twee/,
interwoven,
The
ratio of resistance,
number
of leaves in the tweel, compared with unity. In the warp, the friction in the reed will be diminished
in
the
same proportion;
its
for
changing
Consequently,
may-
be crowded
into' the
injury, than
TWEELING.
From
what
less
89
deduce, that the
the
above,
we may
safely
web
will be
someit
and
quality.
is
But,
when
the fabric
very
close,
tweeled cloth
in
is
possesses
durability.
another advantage
over plain,
plain cloth
point
of
When
the
warp of
very
much
crowded
in the reed,
in order to
form, which
in a straight line
whereas,
be
posed of hard,
and comparatively
chiefly
inflexible materials.
This defect
arises
is
from the
inelastic,
and
inflexible
nature of the
But,
when
much less, and the flexibility of the cloth, of consequence, much greater. The same general remarks, which have been given in
is
the
1st.
The
looms.
Our next
consideration, therefore,
the
effected
is
inter-
woven with
mount-
the
90
ESSAY
II.
moving
these*
many number
of leaves
is,
generally, greater \
raised, or
may be sometimes
neces-
It is, therefore,
to the
is
cession of
moving the
leaves,
by means of the
treddles,
may
leaf
its
motion
is
de-
rived,
must be such,
all
may be
raised, or sunk,
independent of
the others.
representation of the
mechanism used
Plate 5.
found
in Fig. I.
upon centres
levers at
B.
of each of these
A,
suspended by the
two
shown
in the figure.
These
cord
cords, meeting
to pass
fast to
below the
through
it.
and
are, then,
made
Below
two
sets of marches,
which
are moveable at
the centres
by the
F and I. The long marches are distinguished Each of the letter E the short marches by G.
*,
is
at
is
connected
it
to give motion.
TWEELING.
Now,
pulled
as each of these
it
yi
connected with one
if
marches
is
follows, that,
a long
march
is
is
down, the
march
pulled
down, the
form
a direct connection
Of
course,
when
one of the
with which
motion,
latter is pulled
it
is
But the
to the
marches
upper
for
when
the end at
is
will
rise,
cords.
These top
levers are
the
name
The arrangement
although very
who
are
it
is
work.
The ends
A,
ought
equal
which
is
may be uniformly
cular.
is
The
B from
the end
D,
B;
generally
made twice
as great as that
from
to
ratio
to
each other,
may be
calculated
by the same
which apply
levers,
com-
municated by means of
92
When the
ESSAY
II.
which
it is
intended to move.
the leaves of
Some
when
the cases,
which they
relate, are to
be investigated.
The
web, which
This kind of
may be tweeled
are
or plain, as
may be
required.
for cloths in
stripes, tweeled
is
ally introduced.
If the figure
may be
easily
by comparing the
lines
which
But, previous to
this,
it
may be
mode
in
moved
These plans
may be
considered as nori?
Although the
treddles, in a
it is
usual to
them
at
one
side,
T.WEELING.
Fig. 2.
is
93
way of drawing and The four leaves of
1
a representation of the
cording a
common
shown
C, numbered from
also
to 4,
and
N,
numbered
them.
it
in the order in
is
to tread
portion
is
of the
warp, as
passes
through the
heddles,
represented at
D, and
through each
interval.
Where
is
warp
cross
which each
it is
particular thread
drawn.
For example,
as
way
for weavers, to
draw
their
inverted.
The
first
leaf,
Where
the treddles
cross the
mode
of apply-
Wherever
a black
mark
is
placed,
it
is
to say, that
the treddle
when
When
all
which
raises only
one
leaf,
must sink
all
the others.
For
example:
Where
is
the treddle
No.
is
1.
a black mark.
A
to
cord,
treddle j
be carleaves,
94
to the
ESSAY
same
treddle.
II.
J.
when
The
treddle
No.
when
properly-
corded, will raise the second leaf, and sink the others:
the third treddle will raise the third leaf; and the fourth
treddle, the fourth, or front leaf.
It will
be evident,
upon
consideration, that
if
down
the
numbered, he
will raise
By comparing
this operation
it
will
become obvious,
be produced.
that the
Whether a
tweeled web
is
wrought with
is
the succession
in the
is
gene-
and
close,
2.
convey
is
which
we
web
is
of white
woven
in a
to the plan
weft
flushed.
Now, were
is
to rise,
and one to
effect
sink,
when each
treddle
upper
side
TWEELING.
side
95
the principle
by the warp.
effected
may be
by additional mounting,
figures
e shall
a plan of
The
only distinction
is,
that the
1.
1,
A, B.
are arranged,
is
pleases,
and
observations
upon
THE ARRANGEMENT
OF TREDDLES.
treddles are necessary to
When
arrange
pressed
a great
number of
produce any
way
to
them
in the succession in
which they
are to be
down by
the weaver,
when
this is practicable.
For,
if
will frequently
and press
down
wrong
one.
no more than
the
as,
sufficient.
In this case,
regular
it is
common
to place
left;
treddles
in
succession^
from right to
6-5-4-3-2-1
But, where the fabric
of one foot
is is
lighter,
it
sufficient,
will be
more convenient
to
96
ESSAY
II.
left
foot
may
be applied
alternately,
without
crossing
each other*
When
one
time to
treddle, without
leads us to
commence our
upon each
5-3-1-2-4-6
In this case, the treddles
1-3-5
-
will
be wrought
by*
by applying the
6, will be
from
to
wrought
numbers.
is
the
first
of these successions
1.
recourse
is
had
to the
The former
are dis-
In
all
it is
to
two
working the
web
by
the letters A, B.
distinguished
by numbers
There
is
no difference between
this figure
and
number of the
leaves,
and the
number of the
treddles.
The drawing
of the
warp
through the heddles, proceeds in the same regular succession from right to left; and the treddles are arranged
in the
same
order.
In this figure,
five
of the lines*
TWEELING.
97
which represent the threads of the warp, are connected byeach cross line: five threads, therefore, are to be drawn
through each interval of the reed.
Fig. 5. Plate 4. represents a kind of ornamental tweel 5
warp
is
The
plan, for
draw-
web
by referring
five leaves,
to Fig. 5. Plate 5.
The
heddles consist of
a plan for
mounting
a loom, so as to
produce
Such
weave
when
it is
requisite to
Two
two
to enable the
necessary.
plain treddles
1, 2,
A,
3,
B
4
may be
omitted.
to
form the
A, B,
that portion
which
to
intervals.
An
examination of
the
mode
when
down
alternately.
The draught
of
stripes
more
close
for, of the
val,
and of the
only two.
But,
if
the whole
is
to
be equally drawn.
if
ever, occurs.
98
Fig. 7.
is
is
ESSAY
II.
way
similar to that
shown
in Fig. 5.
by weavers,
stripe bears
herring bones,
to the back will
cording
appear by inspection,
has been
deemed unnecessary
to multiply the
num^
As
as
may be
it is
presumed
will
answer
every
further
purpose
of
illustration
which may be
necessary.
We
all
more obvious,
with
this
branch of weaving.
leaves, this
a greater
When
is
arrangement
always adopted.
is
But,
when
by
number of
is
leaves
succession
esteemed
preferable:
called,
weavers,
When
vals
a tweel consists of
many
would be
between the
points, at
To
is
obviate
this
by treading
in a different succession.
TWEELING.
before,
99
frequent
mistakes.
so, that
might
be
productive
of
may be
at the
preserved,
is
same time
produced.
first
An
The
is
Plate 5.
The second
is
is
or broken tweel,
each.
FIVE LEAVES.
Regular Tweel.
1 1
1
Broken Tweel.
1
1
2
3
P o
4
5 3
o|
1
|o
1
4
5 [0
o
1 1
1
4
1
o
|
5 2
1 1
R. 5
B.
4
5
3 2
B.
4
5
R. 3
The
cording
dies.
The same
succession of treading,
its
which breaks
regularity in the
between the
denotes a
leaf.
Numbers
are used,
instead of the
marks
in the
mark does
is
in the plates.
effect,
specimen of the
and appear-
on the
side,
is
flushed.
100
The
ESSAY IL
following are examples of each six LEAVES.
Regular.
Broken.
1
1
|oj
j | j
'
j|
jo
| j j j
2
3
|
(
|
2
3
||
j
4
5
||
|
4
5
li
R.6
B.6
5
6
1 1
\6
1
4 2
2 3
1
2
B.
4
2
2 3
R. 6
SEVEN LEAVES.
Regular.
1
i
i
Broken.
i
|
f
|
|o|
|
|
2 3
| |
,|
So|
|
|
4
:
[0.|
|
4
5
'
|
|0
B.
1-0
| i i | i !
|7
1
1
R.7
B.6
4
7
2 3
Ml 7654321
|0|
It is to
11111(6
| | |
|7
R.
6427531
be observed, that
These examples
will
the cording
may be
When
the
number of
leaves will
admit of
it,
For example,
in the
broken
all
you come
but as the
first
treddle
two
all
the rest
There
is
also
an interval of
TWEELING.
two
third
leaves,
between the
intersection,
produced by the
This,
six leaves;
as
an
illustration,
ought
be avoided in practice.
The
five
much
two
leaves
between the
third
When
different,
more
which can
In
all
the
until the
in the
two
has the raising cord applied, as will appear by the following example:
EIGHT LEAVES.
1
MM
1 1
1
|o|
!
i i
|o|
| 1
2
3
4
s e
7 8
Ml
I
Ml
1 1 1 1
II
| |
|
Ml
| |
Broken
Regular
87654321 63852741
|
Ml
It is
seldom, or never,
will
is
treddle suc-
all
the others.
102
The
give,
is
ESSAY
last
II.
specimen of
common
tweels,
is
which we
shall
which
only to be found
silks.
in
fifth,
SIXTEEN LEAVES.
1
1 1
o
1
1 1 I
1
'
I.O.I
1
|o|
1 | |
o
I
o
1 I
4
5
|o|
I 1
1
ll
1 1 1
|o|
1
[o.l
1
I
j
IOI
I 1 1
M
1
10
n
12 13
|0
1
14
15
io
1
|0|
5
16
| I
|
B.16 15 14 13 12 11 10
Having
finished
the
observations,
and
given
such
a sufficient
which
it is
susceptible,
requisite for
is,
to investigate the
to the
weaving
pi"
TWEELED
In the references to Figs.
STRIPES.
3.
and
On
warp
is
flushed;
Most kinds of
TWEEL1NG.
ornamental weaving, upon tweels, are produced by this
quality of
the
fabric.
is,
The
at
application of
it
to
the
forming of stripes
scription.
present,
Stripes,
upon tweeled
cloth, differ
Tweeled
may be
distinction
supernumerary threads to
It is
The
this, are
upon
the scale of a five leaf tweel ; for the same principle will
apply to any
number of
FIVE LEAFED
!
1
TWEEL
i
STRIPE.
|o
I
l.iii
2 2 2 2
3 3 3 3
4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5
llOlOjOjOi
I
1111
2222
3 3 3 3
}
i
4444
5 5 5 5
The above
five
is
specimen of a
stripe
upon ten
leaves,
The
same
produced by two
of five each.
The
exactly the
same, reversed;
for, in the
former, there are five raising cords, which raise one leaf
successively, while all the rest sink
are five sinking cords,
:
leaf successively 3
ESSAY
while
all
II.
By
this
The
stripe is
set
of
and
will
be
when
to left, the
rise, in
succession,
to 5,
will sink, in
an inverted
this
succession, from 5 to
If a broken tweel
exactly as in
sinking.
common tweeling, one set rising, the other The following example will be sufficient:
TWEELED STRIPE BROKEN.
|
| |
| | |
1111
2 2 2 2 3 3 3 3
4 4 4 4
5 5 5 5
Of
f
|
|0|
|
1111 222 2
3 3 3 3
4444
5 5 5 5
|0|0|
5
leaves
may be
adopted, as in
upon
to infinity*
TWEELING.
The next
attention,
is
105
which requires our
It is
species of tweeling,
much used in the manufacture of table-cloths, and is known in But as we are Scotland by the name of Dornock. now entering upon the fanciful part of this branch of weaving, it will be proper to notice the way of sketching
a kind of tweeled check.
upon
DESIGN PAPER.
To
facilitate the
number of parallel
and these
by
others,
number of
to
small squares.
Of
lines, the
weft of a web.
Some
of
line,
number of
lines easy.
Fig.
1.
Plate 6.
is
is
a specimen
known by
the
name
ing,
of design paper.
between two
lines,
may be supposed
either of
to represent any
at discretion.
number
In
all
of threads,
the patterns
warp or woof,
The
pattern Fig.
1.
which
is
one of the
in this kind of
weav-
an imitation of a
common
web,
106
ESSAY
If.
where the weft appears flushed over the warp, upon one
side of the cloth,
left
blank,
is
weft.
The
former, then,
we
But
same appearance
as the
squares of the
accomplish
this,
must have
This
it
in his
power
to reverse the
flushing at pleasure.
is
effected
by an apparatus
and
same
as in the stripes,
ten treddles,
common
The
1.
Every square,
the paper, and
it
upon
Each square,
Therefore,
of five threads
each,
are
drawn
through the
first
five leaves,
the same as in
common
five
is
leaves,
and so on,
whole warp
heddles.
even
and
fully understood, as
founded.
The drawing
of the
warp
differs,
in
no respect, from
that used for the stripes; the five additional treddles are
The
treddles,
from
six to
and sink
TWEELING.
those of the front.
107
from one
to
five,
The
1,
treddles,
The weaver,
therefore,
2, 3, 4, 5, successively, until
he he
The
the
wrought by the
difference
is
same mounting
The whole
is
in
way
of drawing the
In
drawn
as in the
former
examples in the
plates.
threads
drawn
successively in the
is
same way
as Figs. 1,
and
2.
The same
two
and
4*
The
interval,
first
and second
by an
of
sets,
to be
I
are expressed
by the
numbers.
terns on the
same plan,
all
ten
leaves,
two
sets
of
tweel
form tweeled
stripes.
108
ESSAY
II.
SETS,
No.
35 35
||
2.
10
10
40
10
35
35
||
10
40 No.
No.
10 5
3.
4.
10
10
5 10
40
10
||
10 10
40 40
10
10
40
10
5 10
40
10 5
||
40
No.
20 5 20
5.
No.
||
6.
5 5 5 5
40
30
5 5 5 5
20
5 5
20 5 5 5
|J
30 5 5 5
No. 20
'5
7.
20
5 5 5 5 20
5 5
20 5 5 5 5
5 5 5 5
20
5 5
20 5 5 5 5 No.
20 5 20
8.
40 20
5 5 5
20
5 5 5 5
20 5 5 5
10 5 5 5
No.
9.
5510
5 5 10
5 5
5 5
10
5 5
10 5 20 20 5 10
10 5 20 20
No.
10.
555520
'
5 20
5 5 5 5 20
10 10
15
5
20
15
5 5 5 5 20
55
20
555
TWEELING.
No.
15 15
11.
109
15
5 5 5 5 15
30
15 15
15 5 5 5
30
\5 5 5 5 5
55
No.
5
5
12.
15 5
5 15
15 5
5 15
30 10 30
5
5 15
5 15
30 15 30
15 5
15 5
No.
25
15 15
13.
10 10
10
10
10 10
15
15
10
10
10
10
10
10
25
14.
No.
5
30 10
5
10 30
30 10
20
No.
10 30
15.
15 5 15
30 10 15
15 5 5
5 5
15 10 30
5
15
5 5
15 5 15
16.
No.
30 30 30 30 30
10
10
10
10
30
30
30
10
17,
10
10
10
No.
10 10
15
5
15
10 10
15
15
25
25
10 10
25
18.
25
10 10
No.
20 20 20
5
5 5 5
20 20
5
20 5 5 20
20
110
ESSAY
II.
When
additional
Is
mounting,
Fig.
1.
Plate 7.
is
an
sets of
mounting,
sets
where four
This figure
drawn
six-
To
has been coloured, and each set of leaves and treddles are of the same colour, as the spaces in the design paper,
is
treddles are to be used, and the blue leaves give the reverse, while all the other leaves rise
and sink
like a
com-
mon
tweel.
The same
it
is
all
the other
colours;
and
will appear,
upon
formerly explained.
In Fig.
tweel: in
1. all
The
cording
is
regular.
The
following
five,
by
three, four,
and
sets of
tweel mounting: as
whole
is
the same.
TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF THREE
No.
3d. set
1.
Ill
SETS.
6 6
6
6
6 6 2 2 2
6,
2 2 2 2
2d. set
1st. set
6
6
2 2 2
2 2 2 2
No.
3 3
2.
No.
2
|1
3.
3 3
1 1
1
18
~2
2p2
2 3 2
2232
2 3 2
If
41131331311
113 11
4.
|1
No.
11 11
1
16
3
3 3
16
3
111111113 11111
13
No.
1
13
13
1
"
5.
1
i~8
13313113133131
113 11
No.
6.
1
113 11
No.
7.
313
3
3
313
3
1
1
||
221
1
131
13
113
3
113
3
||
3
1
113
||
11
13
No.
3
8.
113
13
~~10
3 3
113
13
112
No.
9.
ESSAY it
No.
3
1
II
10.
13311331 13 31161
No.
3 3
11.
16
113
i|
113
3
3
6
3 3 3 2 3 3 2 3
3 3
113 113
13
1
11
1
13
2 2
No.
6
3 3 3
13.
No.
6
14.
4
3
3 3 3
13
13
No.
15.
13 111 3 3 11
112 11
311311 113113
No.
6
16.
10
313 11 11 11 313
3 3
*_
No.
3
3
17.
1
16
11
12
11
1
33
11
61
123 321
33 11
TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF FOUR
No.
2
1>
11 Q
SETS.
12
2 2
1 1 1 1 1
12
2 2
12
3
1113
No.
2
1
2.
1 1
1
11
11
3 3
1111
3
i~~
No.
3*
1
21211
11
1
11
11
2
11
12
No.
1
113
13
3
11212
11
4.
1 1
1
1
1 1
1
211121121112
1
1 1
1 1
16 11
21121112112
No.
3
3
1
5.
1
1
13
11
1
11
11
3 3
11
1
114
ESSAY
No.
II.
6.
1
14
3
114.
1
113 13
141 3 113
4
113
-
4
1
4
1
4
1
11
10
1
10
No.
1
7.
11
1 1
11
11
1
13
11
3
113
113
3
1
No.
8;
111
1
1 1
111
1
1 1
1111
1111
1
1111
1
3 3
113
13
No.
1 1
9.
1 1
5
1
8
1
11
112
13 113 11
12
2
10.
No.
2
112
13
1
a
2
1
112
3
1
11
,
11111 111111
TWEELING.
No.
11.
115
No.
12.
4 4
3
3
3
1
||
6 6
1
13 113 13
J
||
3 3
II
13 113 13
13
_
No.
2
13.
1
12
2 2
3
12
2 2
11
1
13
113
No.
112 11 11
111 11 11 11
2
13. continued.
2 2 2 2 2
3
2 2
12
1
113
3
13
No.
14.
11
1
1
2 2 2 2
12
2
1 1
12
11
12
12
2 2
12
15.
12
2
No.
Mo.
I
,3
16.
15
3 3
5 3
||
||;
1
1
2
1
11 11
113 111
2
||
13
3
1
1
12
12
||
116
ESSAY
No.
~3
II,
17.
3
3
_
3
_ 11111 _
3~3
3
3
17. continued.
2 2
11112
~
3
No.
3
3 3
3 3
3
3
11111
12
2
~i
11112
18.
No.
11
2
12
2
12
111
No.
12 11 11
1
12
11
1 1
11
1
18. continued.
1
12
22
No.
Ill
12
1
11
11
1
11
11 2 12 11
1 1
19.
No. 20.
(|
3 3
1
3 3
3
1
2
2
112
2
II
11
2
1!
3 3 3
3
12
II
TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF FIVE
No.
5
3
1.
117
SETS.
3 3
3
3
3 3
3 3
3 3 3
3
3
3
3 3
__
3
No.
_
3 3
2.
_
3
3
3
3 3 3
11
2
2 2
13 11
12
3.
No,
"~~
3
3 3
5
2
3 3
2__
1
2 2
2112
222
2112 222
No.
4.
2112
2
2
3
~
113
3
11
11
1
113 13
11
1
11
1
118
ESSAY
No.
5.
II.
11
11
2 2 2
1
11
1
1 1
11
11
1
2 2 2 2 2
1
11
No.
5.
11
11
continued.
11
3~
21
2
1
1 1
2
2 2
No.
6.
No.
1
7.
1 1
114 11
]
"3
i
1
11
1
13 115 11
13
3
||
II
No.
9.
No.
8.
Ill
111
3 3 3 3
||
3333
333
3 3
3
1
||
||
||
9
10.
||
No.
DRAUGHT.
3
No.
10
||
10.
ORDER OF TREADING.
9
33233
3 3 3
3
3
10
II
3
3 3 3 3 3
II
113
113
2
1
993
3 3 3
||
II
TWEELING.
PATTERNS OF
No.
I
119
SIX SETS.
1.
ll 11
1
11
3
1 1
1
11
1
13
1 1 1 1
3
1
11
No.
1.
continued.
1 1
1
3
3 3
1
1
1 1
1 1 1
No.
2
2.
2
1
2
1 1
2
1 1
2
"
iiiiiii
No.
2. continued.
11111111
~T
5 5
112
2
2
2
12
2
2
12
12
112
112
120
ESSAY
No.
4
1 1
II,
3.
4 4
4
1
11
.4
4 4
14 1 14 11
2
2 2
12
2 2
No.
3.
continued,
114
4
4
l i
;
1114
4
4
14 14
2 2 2 2 2 2
4
No.
2
2
2
4.
2 2 2 2
2
2
2 2
2 2 2
2
2 2
2
2 2
2
2 2 2
2
2
2 2
2 2 2 2
2 2
2
2
No.
2
4. continued.
2
2
2
2 2
2
2
2
2 2 2
2
2
2 2
2
2 2
2
2 2 2
2 2
2 2
2 2
2
2 2
2 2
TWEELING.
121
These patterns have not been selected for any particular merit which they may possess, but, merely, as illustrations
of the manner of weaving them, and
all
patterns of equal
compass.
different
succession.
is
One
pattern,
inserted
of the draught.
to attain a thorough
knowledge of
mounting
carefully to
for the
The
pattern.
is
Select any
employed, to
Draw
which occurs,
first
largest draughts
all
the
be complete.
The
patterns
may be
and
7.
much
any
it is
The
may be
carried to
assume
a greater variety,
leaves.
number of
This,
much
practical incon-
when many
move
man can
generally
122
To
is
ESSAY
II.
fifteen,
when an
extensive range
of
pattern
required,
very
ingenious,
although
called, by-
which
is
weavers, a
BACK HARNESS.
The
applied,
superiority of the
no case to which
it is
requisite for
common
tweel of the
ber of leaves,
necessary.
From
leaves
described.
This
The
tin,
five leaves, at
A. Fig.
eye,
1.
which
generally
made of
of the
five threads
The
may
Of
two
sake of lifting
The
D.
by cross
shafts,
each cord
is
a knot,
is
raised, is
The
proper shape of
To
the end of
TWEELING.
each cord
is
123
pulls
attached a handle,
when
necessary, to
a leaf of the
five
The
front mounting, at C,
consists of
leaves, as in a
common
tweel, and
is
worked by
treddles
The
five threads,
which
are
are
drawn
The
To
we
the
warp, or by
the weft,
and reversing
flushing at pleasure.
The
cording
is
leaf rises,
remain stationary,
at every tread.
The
order
may be
This
is
which
In the
is
required,
a cross
is
Now, by
the leaf 5
is
is
1.
it
The
is
mounting
is
stationary.
As
all
five
the harness,
leaf 5.
Four threads
are,
124
ESSAY
by the warp.
II.
flushed
In
all
flushing
may be
reversed at pleasure,
The
ther
which
are
sinks, carries
five
which
raised
which
rises carries
up one
Upon
it
produce no
effect.
The
of five leaves.
The
last
by weavers
the
draw loom.
This apparatus, besides being used for weaving the
in
ornamental tweeling,
is,
also,
We
In the
mean
time,
we
The
TWEELING.
No.
I
125
1.
ll
|
1
J
|
j |
|
j
|
2
| j
32
31
j"
j
If
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j
j j
4
5 6
7
30
29
28
|
| |
jo
|
j
jo
|
27
26
|
j
jo]
j |
8
|
25
j
j
jo
|
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10 24 12 22
IS
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21
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j
j
14 20
15
19
18
j j
16
17
|
17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10
18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32
No.
j j
2.
|
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j J
j |
2
3
30
29 28
27
1 1
1
1 1
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4
5 6
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j j | j
26 25
|
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24
23 22
21
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10
11
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|
12
13 14 15
20
19 18
17
|
j
j
j
j j
|
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j j
j
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16
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
.26
ESSAY
II,
No.
|0|
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5
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23
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16
15
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to lot
1
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1
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9
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8
7
14
14 13 12 11 10
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
No.
fo 1
4.
o|j
1
|o|
|olojji
1
1
II
j
2
1
26
25
4
5
24
23 22
21
8 9
6
7
20
19
18
17
11
|0|0|
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jojOj
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10
(
j
fo jo
1
12
1
|
16
15
j
j
13
14
14 13 12 11 10 9
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
TWEELING.
No.
r
I
127
5.
[01
o
|
1
I
1
2
1
30
29 28 27
4
1
0|
l.o
6
7
o! |o ol |o o| |o
o o o o o o o o
9
8
10
11
26 25 24 23 22
21
12
13
20
19 18
17
14 15 16
7
|o|
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
No.
j
6.
jo|
j
o
|
| |
o|
J
|
o
J
| | j
|i
|
2
3
30
29
28
27
4
5
6 7
o
1
1
o
1 1 1
1
o
1 1
o
1
II
j
j
II!
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26
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j
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j j j
j
10
1 1
25 24 23 22
21
o
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j
12
13
20
19
18
17
14
15 16
jo
j
|
|
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
ESSAY
No.
1 1
II.
7.
PI
j
j
o
|
|0|
| |
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|0|
j
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j
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1
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2
3
30
29
28 27
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j j
4
5
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26 25
|0|
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1
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j
ll
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1 |
8 9
10
11
24 23 22
21
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12
13
20
19
.
| |
14
15
18
17
|0|
1
1
| | |
o
9
| | |
o
|
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16
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
No.
1
8.
o| to
P.J
1.0
o.|
o o
o
o| o o o
o o o
1
1
2 3
30 29
28
4
5
o.l
1
o o
,
lo
9.1
6
7
27 26
o o
OJ
1
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1
L
1
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9
1 1
25 24 23
22
21
1
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io
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10
11
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1
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1
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i
1
12 13
14
20
19
18 17
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j
l
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1
16 15 14 13 12*11 10
987654321
1
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16
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
TWEELING.
No.
]
129
9.
1
lo|o
|
o o
o
|
To "To
|0|0|
1
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1 |
30
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29
28 27
fojo|o ll
1
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5
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J
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6
7 8
26
25
o
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1
1
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j
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j
24
23
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10
11
22
21
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i
1
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o o
o o|
12
13
20
19
18
17
jo
14
15 16
o
1
1 |
ll
|
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|o|
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
$Fo. 10.
'
o o o
o'l
o o o
oj
o o
o o
p
o
I
1
o
,
2
3 4
30
29 28
27
jo |o jo
!
o
o
o
o
o o o o |o
1
o o o o
o
9
J_
o
6
7 8
26
25
o o
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o |o
1
1.0
IP
o
o
o
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o
o
24
23
o
o
IP
i
o o
o
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o o
o o o o
10
11
22
21
1 |o 1
i
o
o
12
13
20
19
18 17 16
o o
o
o
I
PI
1
14
15
o
o
5
o
1
jo
16
1
!
1
14 13 12 11 10 9
2
,30
7 18 19
20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29
30
ESSAY
No.
XX,
11.
o\
!
hi
0|0| 0|0 0|0|
PI
1
p| *J i| PJ
1
o| PI PI o| PI
o
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1
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1
1
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1
30
29 28
27 26
25
24
23
IP
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10
J
22
21
20
19 18 17
16 15 14 13 12 11 10
4.321
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
No.
j
| j
|
12.
J
|
joj
j
|
|
-
jl
j
2 3
4
5
6 7 8
30 29 28
27
26
'
|
||
|
o
1 1 1
p o
25 24
IPI
ll
o
1
1
|
j
| |
23 22
21
10
11
P
1
JOJ joj
|
12
13 14
20
19
18
15 16
17
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9
17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30
TWEELING.
No.
{
131
13.
1
|
o O
| j
|
|
| |
2 3
28
27 26
25
O'j
j j
jo
j
|
j
4
^ 6 7
'
j
j j
24
23
11
JO
|
8 9
22
21
o
j 1
jo jp
jo
j
10
11
20
19
18
li
| |
ll
|
12
13
17
j j
j j
14
16 15
15 14 13 12 11 10 9
16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28
No.
|
| |
14.
o
|
o
J
o
| |
o
| j j j
2
3
2d
25
j
|
JO
|
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| j
J
|
4
5
6
24
23 22
21
7 8 9
jj
jo
| j j
||jo
j
jj
j|
20
19
18 17 16
j |
jo
j
jo
j
10
11
jo
| j |
12
13
15
14
14 13 12 11 10 9
15 16 17 18
19-
2
26*
20 21 22 23 24 25
132
ESSAY
No.
|
II.
15.
o
|
|o|o||
j
| | |
jojoji
|
|
'
j 1
2
8
26
25
4
5
6'
24
23
22
21
jo
j
7
8
|0|0|
j {
j ( j j
20
19
18 17 16
15
9
10
11
'[
JO jojoj
|
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|
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|
jojoj
U
| j |
12
13
JOJOJ
j j
24
14 13 12 11 10 9
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26
No.
1
16. o
||
| |
| |
| 1
1
|
j 1
[|
| j |
2
3
26
25 24
| I
4
5 6 7
8
jojoj
|
|
'
23
22
21
jojoj
| j j j j j j
| |
20
19
18
!7 16 15
0-j
1
j |
l|0|
J
| |
ll
|
!1
|
10
J 1
n
12 13
j0j
j |
| | j
| j
jojOJoj
7
jojoj
3
14
14 13 12 11 10
2
26.
15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25
TWEELING.
Patterns
great variety.
illustrate
133
The specimens
general
principle
;
given
are
sufficient
to
the
and,
afterwards,
the
particular
figures
1.
may be
regulated
by fancy.
The
pattern
No.
and seventeen
treddles.
The
which
it
By
this
is
woven
If
plain,
and
we
suppose,
warp
to be white,
is
warp or weft.
By counting
the
The
plan,
figures,
upon the
hand of the
threads are
are
The numbers
usual
placed from
to
right,
in
the
order
of
draw
their
webs
from
right to
left,
inverted in practice.
but
is
draught
Plate 5.
com-
mon
tweeling.
Each number,
in
all
The
order of treading,
exactly
are placed.
134
If the plan
ESSAY
No.
1.
it
II.
is
which
is
an exact
That
this
if
must be the
case,
in all the
plans, will be
obvious,
we
invert the
two
same
sides
*,
produce the
this,
effect
it
by the weft,
Proper attention to
will
make
easy to
draw a
when
given.
given
and,
on the contrary,
is
draw
plan
of
The
pattern on the
No.
2.
is
and sixteen
treddles.
shows
its
effect
upon the
1.
design paper.
The
description given of
all
No.
applies
the others.
ought to be drawn.
Nos.
5, 6, 7,
and
8.
are
upon
sixteen leaves.
The
appearance of No.
7. is,
by Fig.
These,
it
12.
is
by Fig.
13.
Plate 4.
the others.
two
the
manner formerly
described.
TWEELING.
One example
refers to
185
It
Nos.
3,
and
4.
29
28
"27
13
25_
2
3 11
12
14 15 16
17
24
23
4
5 6 8 7
10
22
21 18
20
19
Continued.
32
31
44
33 34
35
41
43
45 46
47
30
42
36
37 38
40
39
48
49
50
186
The
ESSAY
successive numbers,
II.
from
1
1
to 50, to 7,
contain one
set of this
commence the
same order
second draught.
The
treading
may be
in the
The
chiefly
fancy tweels,
employed
cottons.
Some
is
of these are
the substance
woven of
by
silk,
or
far the
most
The
application of the
Some
is
of these goods*
weaving
finished, to complete
the effect.
But the
many
other
ways of
come within
the plan
of this work.
I
With them
I shall
conclude this
Essay.
the draught in
all
these plans,
number
The
raising cords
are,
as usual,
is
TWEELING.
No.
1,
137
No.
2.
PILLOW FUSTIAN.
|
|
| |
PLAIN VELVERET.
1
||
|
4
3 6
5 2 3
||
5 2
\6
|
2
5
||
14
|0|
| |
|0|0|
| |
||
\6
1
No.
3.
No.
4.
DOUBLE JEAN.
JO |o
1
i
PLAIN THICKSET.
1
II
IP
1
|0|
1
|
|8
6 4
1
l-o
j
11
2
3
II
o |o
1
1
o |0| o |o|
1
II
t,;i
5
1
,
2
3
1
4
1 II 1
o
I1
o
1
i
ji
o
i
2 5
8
No.
5.
No.
6.
BEST THICKSET.
1
STOCKINET.
3
1
II 1 1
o
|
|
|0|0|
1
|o;
1
o
1 |
II
|o
1
1
1
2
3
o o 4
2
|
!
11
|o|o;1.
o
1
1 I
6 4
1
II
1
!
o
|
2 5
No.
7.
No.
8.
STRIPE.
|0
i
VELVET TUFT.
6
7
1
II 1
|o; |o |o fo|
l.o
!
|o|
!
1i
[531
4 2
|
4
||
|0!|o
!
11
1
5
8
2
II
|o
1
1
o |o
i
i
42
5 3
1
3
II
1
1
I
o
1 1
!
2
5
131
ESSAY
No.
9.
II,
No.
prince's cords.
7
10.
3 5
1
"I
1
2
3
9
I
I
O
j
10
8 6
4
2
1
1
|0|4
3
1
No.
1 1
No.
12.
BARLEY CORN.
3
1
If
|0| |0||O.J
i
3
1
!
|0|
7
1
I
5
3
I1
1
t
!I
|0| [Oj
2
W
I
7 5
6 4 2
w
i
8 6
1
|
1
64
jo|
!
4 2*
i 1
II
23
No;
IS.
No. 14v
PLAIN CORD.
f
f I f
BOLTON CORD.
SI
4 2
ff
[of
i
i-
[Of
| |
j f
5314 2
9 7
10 8 6
i'P'i
I
1
fi
|0(0|
| f
If
|0
|
f'
O.j
\6
1
If
|-o
|
[Of
4
2
2
5
No.
15.
No.
16.
THICKSET CORD.
jot
! ! |
j
ROUND TOP.
5 3
1
|j
1*1
1
fo ll
1
6
1
o
o
4 2
f)
lor
1
10 8
i
4
7
1
|0|
1
9 7
10 8 6
ff
|o [o
\
|o|
9
1 I
i
|f
\o\
4 6 2
5 3
TWEELING.
No.
17.
IQ
No.
3
18.
VELVERET CORD.
JEAN.
;
42 1Q| 1AM__LJ-J_A
1
I
~\6
oS
6
f
4
2
"|o"|
i>
1
2 5
0)
2
1
o
!
i
i
JO
o
! i
o
1
o |o
1!
1
J
1
i
1
4 2
5
1
o
I
1
II
10
1
oj
'
4
5 6
1!
jo |o
i
:
i-o
foj
!
II
|o
I-o
o
:1
'
3
6
jo
1 1
li
2 5
No. 21.
RIBS.
]
No,
|o
22,
o
i
I
1
II
jo
1
To
3
1
2
,
1)
1!
19 i
IP]
3
1
2
4
5
4
5
'
||
~r~
-
o|
o
1
o
6
1
II
II
o
i
o| 6
2
16
'No. 23.
No. 24.
r
GENOA THICKSET
i
II
i
o
I
!
o
i
|..o
i
1
I-o
1
1
|o| y
I
ii
|o
i
1
1
2
3
[0 io
1
1
l-a-.ro
1
*
4
jo
II (|
o
o o o
1
1
So |o
3
r
I
|0
|o|
6 8
km
1
o o
5 a
1
"ii
1!
|o
1
!
1
o 4
8
IO 12
3
7
II
2 6
5
11
3
9
12 10
140
No. 25.
ESSAY
II.
No. 26.
queen's cords.
1 1
II
2
3
||
2
I
0|
[
[
|0 [o
j
II
4
5
6
1
||
jo|o|o
1 1
| 1
4
5
||
p|
4 6 8
|0
2
5
7
|o| |o
!
l
3
4
10
2
8
18 15 12 11
16 14
17 13
No. 27.
.No. 28.
queen's velveteens.
i
!!
l<>l
i
II
2
! II i
1
Q-|
I
|o [ol |0
|
2
3
|
1
s
j
|
!l
o
|
q
4
5 6
| | | |
4
5
||
|
ii
1
I
||
|o|o
]
1
|6f
3 7
11
12
2 6
4
8
3
7 9
5
9
6 10
10 12 11
No. 29.
PLAIN VELVETEEN.
f
1
No. 30.
GENOA VELVETEEN.
i|
(0
!
M
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TWEELING.
No. 31,
No.
32.
GENOA VELVERETS.
of
6
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No. 33.
PLAIN BOLTON CORD.
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No. 34.
PLAIN CORD.
3
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No. 35.
KING'S CORD.
No. 36.
CORDED MUSLINET.
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No. 37.
ESSAY
FANCY TWEEL.
II,
No. 38.
RIB AND JEAN.
1
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No. 39.
No. 40.
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No. 41.
No. 42.
HONEY COMB.
1
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-i
RIB.
1
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TWEELING.
No. 43.
148
28
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No. 45.
SATINET FACE.
i
1
GENOA VELVETEEN.
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No. 46.
No. 47.
DUTCH CORD.
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1
MOCK MARSEILLE*
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144
ESSAY
II.
No. 48.
ANOTHER CORD.
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No. 49.
No. 50.
GENOA VELVETEEN.
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No. 51.
SILK CORD.
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TWEELING.
No. 52.
RIB
I
145
AND
26 24
DICE.
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No.
54.
ANOTHER CORD.
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146
ESSAY
II*
No. 55.
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No. 57.
JEAN BACK AND FACE.
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No. 58.
SATIN CORD.
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TWEELING,
No.
59.
147
No. 60. VELVETEEN.
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No. 62.
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148
ESSAY
II,
No, 63,
II
1
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TWEELING.
No. 65. CORD.
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No. 66.
RIB,
30
29
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16
I.
24
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CORDING.
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ESSAY
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DUTCH CORD.
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191
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12
TWEELING.
The
and the great variety of examples of
different species of
sufficient to
151
application to
manufactures,
it is
presumed, will be
who
tweel
is
upon one
the weft.
the same
upon both
The
employed
upon a
the
is
and
In
number
generally used.
in the
the
treading
progressive;
second,
alternate.
No.
1
i
1
1.
*
No.
II
2.
|o|o|
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3
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T
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3
II
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2
10
3
1
4
I
silk
number of
threads
woven with
in rising
and
sufficiently
opened to
To
which
strikes
152
reed, are divided
ESSAY
in passing
II.
By
is
greatly lessened.
of the set and roughness of the threads, only one fourth of the warp
is
second
is
pressed
down
between
the times
Note.
when
thrown
across.
8. the leaves,
drawn upon
size.
ESSAY
ON THE
III.
THE
The
next variety
is
of
weaving
attention,
composed
are
is
interwoven
at intervals.
both
is
below.
is,
manufacture of carpets, in
is
The
texture
generally the
same
as
that
of plain cloth,
The
material
employed
is
generally dyed
all
two webs
are dif-
made
Hence
is
arises, that
the
154
More
colours than
ESSAY
two
III.
we
shall^ in
the
first
in-
CARPETS OF
TWO
COLOURS.
As we have
a carpet
is
we
shall
now
suppose that
shall
be white,
example of
a representation of a checker
board, the squares of which are black and white alternately, as in Fig. 1. Plate 6. already referred to.
web
of this kind
of heddles,
may be wrought with eight leaves moved by eight treddles. The draught of the
which follows:
Black above.
I
1
White above.
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11
White above.
Black above.
DOUBLE CLOTH.
By examining
two warps
of heddles,
will plainly appear, for in each of the
155
two
sets
two
and two
the
black,
is
and one
of each,
containing
is
two
threads,
drawn
alternately.
The web
also wefted,
Now, we
which
is
represented as
warp
is
white warp below j and, that the four back leaves exactly
reverse this operation.
effect
when
the cording
1
is
applied ac-
be pressed down,
The
cording
which connects
white leaves
1
this treddle
with the
and
5,
Thus one
warp
is
At
warp
is
not interwoven at
is
all,
for, in the
back
set
of leaves,
and 8 are
The
This treddle
those
and
7,
and sinks
marked 4 and
is
back
5,
set,
4 and
The
156
essay ni.
which were
raised
by the
So long
as the
when
finished,
stripe.
when one
completed, he
was formerly
it
where
it
was
raised.
all
This
is
the principle
its
upon which
double cloth
is
woven, and
Carpets are
The
materials
room
An
range
described,
is
may be used
for
some
patterns; and
in the
when
the
extensive, carpets
must be woven
draw loom-
Very few
to explain
woven
in this country,
It will
be curious, however,*
a
how
they
may be wrought by
which
subsists
back harness,
and
between tweeling
and double
The mode
of weaving carpets, as
now
To
illustrate
weaving,
we
shall again
by a harness, with
it
the,
with leaves,
DOUBLE CLOTH.
1 st
157
B
Harness l eaf
w
B
w
b
w
b
2d Harness leaf
bwwww
B B
^ 3
13
J
o I I - m ^
.ti
*u
3 ^
CO
13
CM
r
I
1*1
1*
*
I
*l o|
x
1
7 8
5
6
2 3
4
5 3
2
1
8
7 8
6
5
4
3
2
1
White White
Black Black
|o' 4
3
*l 1*1 8
2J
may be wrought by
this
The
and
checker pattern
mounting,
will
difference
In the
sufficient.
The
levers
two back
leaves
are raised
by
as described
and represented
in Fig. 1. Plate 8.
The
two
threads, of white
warp ; the
weaving,
one
splitful
is
of black.
In this kind of
are
when
the harness
used,
two threads
drawn
The
front
mounting
consists of four
moved by four
treddles.
The draught
of both
Of
black warp.
the figures.
The
first
succession of drawing
denoted by
When
the
first
the
is
raised, press
treddle,
across.
down The
158
ESSAY
III.
the harness leaf, according to the range of the pattern, the white will be raised in the one set of checkers, and
the black in the other.
treddle
raises
The
first
This treddle
leaves,
letter
has
which remain
is
used,
splitful
harness
and the
leaf
therefore,
The white
passes.
The
third
first
The
first
When
one
harness
This reverses
two warps, and the operation proeyes of the heddles in the front
ceeds as before.
The
The
eyes of the
made
by weavers.
are
There
leaves,
cloth.
many
is
the best;
for
upon
this,
mechanical powers,
much diversity of
exist.
In general, the
must be ascertained
DOUBLE CLOTH.
159
by means of two
parallel levers,
is
moving upon
centres.
When
it is
there
it
sufficient
room
for an
intended.
in extensive harness
mountings, to raise
over pullies.
the leaves, by
represented
is
Each
and made
fast to a piece of
To
each of these
cords another
is
attached,
When
is
the handle
pulled down,
is
becomes necessary.
will
is
The
parallel
raised, if
made of sound
by
and the
leaves, of course,
This
is
where the
breadth of the
web
is
160
less
ESSAY
III.
room.
when new,
are very
considerably affected by every vicissitude of the atmosphere, and, therefore, less dependence ought to be placed
upon
I
their operation.
when looms
are
mounted
is
for
thick,
and
power required
A wire
from
its
remains
superior
seasons, and,
strength,
would
last
for
many
years.
Cords, on the
by every
which
is
very
common
in weaver's shops.
am
wires, will
form
a serious objection
when
a variety of
work
is
changed.
when
there
is
a rational prospect of a
am
convinced that
will be
When
extensive, and
much
much
If
time
is
lost
much
bend over
The
wires should be
may be
by
The
above, however,
is
given
ment
tried;
but
do not entertain
would
DOUBLE CLOTH.
But
always,
in actual practice,
161
if
not
woven
in the
draw loom.
1 shall,
therefore, before proceeding, endeavour to
dif-
which
Draw
looms, as
weaving,
when
the pattern
is
damask draw
loom, until
my
inquiries
are,
I offer
upon tweeling,
would be
difficult,
if
for the
number of cords
so
are,
it
would only
have
lately
loom
at
carried
I
to great extent
and perfection.
was
162
ESSAY
III.
-
by 1200
leaves,
I
formerly described.
mens of
in the
These plans
found
in Plate 9.
is
The
to
composed of wood,
moving apparatus
That
which
is
and passes
through a
flat
other divisions.
is
re-
at
H.
is
The
figure
is
which
peculiar to the
leaves,
which are
worked by
treddles,
of showing
these
parts.
but
it
is
by
different
means.
Fig. 2.
is
edge of which
seen in Fig.
1.
to
show
the
way
in
which the
DOUBLE CLOTH.
anail,
163
is
which
and each
kept tight by
hung
to the bottom.
Kow,
is
if
we
&e. twines,
after passing
all rise
once, each
being the
first
of a
new
design.
completed.
To
each of these a
cord
is
then
tied,
which
box
fastened,
on one
side of the
The
horizontal
marked B, and
tail.
mounting
is
called the
is
To
another .cord
one side
all
made
fast to a
cross piece of
wood.
These cords
and are
distinis
then
must be taken
that
all
proper height.
The warp
before
lifting the
harness
to be applied.
is
traced,
it
when any
simple
is
either
pulled
down, or strongly
one
it is
connected j and,
when
164
ESSAY
III.
As
the
it
would be impossible,
in a
heavy design, to
pulled,
select those
without a great
unless
employed.
effected
by means of
lashes^
represented at E, and
which the
up and down.
The
applica-
called
This
generally performed
by
two persons.
the same,
The
pattern, being
what simples
It
is
of the harness.
The
receives,
lash
is
pointed
He
F by
a loop
round
other
may
slide freely
upon
it.
The
upon them.
the simples
The lashes must be uniformly tied, that may be pulled equally. A single instance
how
the design
is
taken
DOUBLE CLOTH,
Let Fig. 14. Plate
165
By counting
the spaces
upon the
45 by
gives
design paper,
it
by the length.
in
The former
number of mails
working.
latter,
the
When
the
In
this case,
every square
which
ning
is
Begin-
at the
bottom,
it
simple.
The
who
applies
the lashes
is;
On the
as the stem,
must be
raised,
and by counting
as before
from the
the direction will be; Pass 18, take 3; pass 8 and take 2.
On
the third,
two other
parts
come
take 4.
until the
this flower,
by
and
all
damask
patterns,
however
and take
4.
166
ESSAY
III.
pass 4, take
5-,
pass 6, take 2
2*,
5,
14th, Pass 25, take 2 5 pass 8 and take 9. 15th, Pass 24, take 2; pass 10 and take 9.
take 6.
18th,
take 3.
Pass 7, take 6$
pass 9, take
3-,
pass 16 and
6-,
DOUBLE CLOTH.
take 14.
167
3-,
24th*
Take
,
8,
pass
2-,
take 2, pass
2-,
take 2, pass 8* 3
take 2, pass 3
take 7.
take 13; pass 10, take 2; pass 5, take 4.
25th, Pass
1,
pass 3, take
6*,
pass 5, take 6.
32d, Pass 6, take 5; pass 5, take 5; pass 6, take 8. 33d, Pass 6, take 5; pass 6, take 3; pass 8, take
34th, Pass 6, take 5; pass 19, take 3.
35th, Pass 7, take 3.
7,
From
wrought
this
it
in the
entirely
upon the
mode of connecting
course, the pattern
the simples.
Of
any
may be
altered at pleasure, to
other
connection.
It
left,
or
vice versa,
quently the
sets of lashes
on the cord F,
in like
The
first set is
rest in
regular
succession above
at
The
sets
are connected
168
ESSAY
When
is
III.
com-
the
sets
are pushed
up nearly
to
the top
of the cord F.
persons, one of
The loom
whom
manages the
ing
is
treddles, shuttle,
and
lay.
The
mount-
number of
qualities of
damasks,
five leaves
commonly
many of
with eight.
When
who
raises
is
which
The weaver
The
person
who
draws, then
pulls
down
the second set of lashes and draws the simples as before; the
is
weaver proceeds
to
work
until another
change
is
com-
pleted.
is
to
work once
this
is
and
damask weaving.
is
When the
it is
very extensive,
boxes of
for
pullies
must be extended
to a very
parallel to
each
other, as represented
lines Fig. 1.
and an
It
also
common,
One
and
DOUBLE CLOTH.
the others are loose;
169
and each
when
times,
sity
to
be wrought.
at various
Many
been made,
as well as
work the
treddles.
The
and
lately invented
is
now
very com-
mon.
It is
known
there,
loom, the
tail
upward, and
each cord
roof,
is
is
Upon
The
from the
and
all
they are
made
fast
is
fre-
An
instrument, called
figure,
its
is
hung
in a horizontal position,
and moveable on
of the
as
it
centres.
The
comb
it
will be
found
in Fig. 4.
which represents
or below.
it
appears
In
Fig. 5.
In both these
represented by
170
tail d,
ESSAY
III.
disengaged.
pulls
down any
which
to
which they
are tied
The
as the
in a notch, in the
same way
is
When
a change
is
is let
tail
comb;
another set
the
is
drawn
in
by pulling another
set of lashes,.
comb
is
operation proceeds.
raises
is
The weaver pulls the lashes with the comb with the other, so that
in
time
consumed
The
loom.
patent
tail
much
the
and,
consequently, require
cordage;
loom
is
saved:
so applied, that
much
less
power
is
heavy mounted
very considerable.
is
By
will
reducing the
way
in
applied in
both cases, to the elementary principles, the difference be found to be very great*
In the
first
case, one
end
DOUBLE CLOTH.
^f the
tail
is
171
all
made
fast,
the
The
down
fast
and the
pullies.
Conweight
same
ratio y as a
moving
pully,
made
It
of 2
only
by another of
Hence
power, which
to pull
is
the
sum
harness which
to be raised.
But
in the case
raised perpendicularly
more power
is
sum of
is
fixed,
of
From
these caleula->
we may
But
mechanism, many
deficiencies
to the eye
become
For
this reason, I
was
at pains to collect
from those
who were
daily
em-
two
plans.
1/2
ESSAY
the range of pattern
III.
When
great, I
found
is still
more
It
that
was informed
two looms, of very extensive ranges, had been lately mounted 5 the first, of 120 designs, upon the old plan;
the second, of 125 designs,
plan.
Both
manner, but
it
was
mounting of
was already
much
duced more
Should
was impaired
in
no perceptible degree.
it
this
will
form
new
to the
The mounting
of
is
work
necessarily involving
much
therefore, be
employed for
it
of time, before
it
But
may be
I
possible, admitting
which
two looms,
in point of durability,
The
to that of the
the quality of
Some
part of
little
more
strain
Whether any
of
DOUBLE CLOTH.
these causes did operate in this case, I
178
had no means
of ascertaining
but,
in
much
caution
circumstances which
may
affect
Want
more
injurious to the
practical
mechanism, than
my knowledge upon
sufficient to re-
may be
appears
of durability.
pullies
The
side,
tail,
to
one
rises
much
less
from a
straight
and the decay which must be produced, both by the and the deflection of the cords,
It is,
is,
however, to be allowed,
some
friction will
hemp
or lint,
which
is
In these
occurred to myself.
Probably,
still
be universally
admitted, even by those who, from their practical experience, have the best opportunities of forming an accurate
subject.
174
But, in whatever
ESSAY
way
a
III.
draw loom
is
mounted, too
much
deed,
materials,
is
This, in-
No
plan of economy
its effects,
expence.
The mounting
of an
four
24?
draw loom
will
at least
months.
in
before the
loom
can be
ver
set to
work.
this
Let us then suppose, that the wealoom, besides paying the person
if
who works
who
per
1/.
weaving plain
cloth.
In this
will require
repaid,
It is
loom
for himself,
or employs another to do
for him,
In the
first
instance, labour
is
supposition, the
value
let
is
the same.
But, to
make
loom, which he
tions
afterwards to work.
will
By
the supposi-*
expend 96 working
in
mon wages
These,
DOUBLE CLOTH.
taken together,
175
to
amount
to
which
he
will at the
Now
let
us again
to 10/.
6L
Let us suppose
two mountings
which, in practice,
the best
is
will
last
ten
months
Let us then
last for
two
years,
and the best for three years and four months; the calculation will then
be
For materials
...
RETUE.N.
.14
*
20
Is.
316
be 10/.
18/.
The
weaver
will
excluding interest.
L. 14
10
24
RETURN.
1/.
52
*
Or
28 15
176
In both cases,
it is
ESSAY
III.
random, to
illustrate
and
of
Whether
the price
the same.
good
him; and,
profit,
yield
Simple
more
common
many
than
I
have
known
this
incalculable
deviation,
in
instances,
arise
from
consideration of
it
weaving double
and to explain
Damask, and
much fewer
is
splits,
much
less
exten-
37 inchesj which
split or
1000 threads.
The
DOUBLE CLOTH.
carpet
177
draw loom,
In
two warps
the
is
drawn
alternately.
The
draught, through
harness,
same
is
splits
is,
generally, of steel.
It
carpet
lashes,
therefore,
are attached
down
To
the
of lashes
is
is
tied a cord,
and to the
bob.
Fig. 6.
is
is
the
tail,
the lashes,
bobs.
pass,
H the
The bobs
are suspended in
is
two rows,
as
G,
Of
lifts
that
warp which
to
be uppermost; the
still
other
lifts
is
com-
posed.
The
two being
are exactly
The
rather
draw loom
so that they
may
whole
is
as
a harness,
tail
cords.
Upon
inquiring
178
of persons,
ESSAY
\
III.
was
very
Both
are
found
to
do
well,
manufactories.
Let us
now
is
to
be
wrought
as a carpet,
is
black upon a
is
white ground.
In this case,
when
a white shot
thrown
must be
is
raised,
inserted, the
ground
is
to
be
For the
first,
the instruc-
for damask,
As
must be changed
bobs are placed in
at every shot,
and for
pairs, as represented
by Fig.
The
1st.
White
shot, pass
30 and take
2.
is
effected in this
same
changed
little,
more
Besides this^
DOUBLE CLOTH.
as the
179
he
is
weaver must
sufficiently
harness.
found not
to be sufficiently
A
is
square frame of
wood
is,
therefore,
com-
at certain distances,
over which
similar
warp
stretched
by the warper,
in a
manner
As
the
this prac-
When
are
colours, they
woven
warp.
not
There
is
no other difference
in the process.
It is
and when the webs are too broad for one man to
stretch,
two
are employed,
one
at
Many
cloths,
&c. are
are
woven
Carpets
velvet,
also
is
manufactured
with
flushing
this
is
like
which
afterwards cut.
When
is
the case,
a groove,
and
when
knife
for
it.
The
wire
is
warp
These may
on
be wrought plain,
This manufacture
chiefly carried
at
Kidderminster,
been introduced
at all in Scotland.
From
Very elegant
180
ESSAY
upon the same
III.
The two
chiefly
webs
ture
same
colour.
This manufac-
also derived
carried
on
Those-
made
ESSAY
ON THE
IV.
'"THHE
r*-
That
which we
are
now
to investigate,
is
exclusively adapted
to the slightest
textures.
first
branches of the
cross weaving
we
derived our
knowledge of
species of
this
weaving has certainly been much improved, and a considerable variety of nets added,
in-
The manufacture
carried
of cross
woven goods
is,
chiefly,
on
in
west of Scotland.
Some
made
in
different
parts of England,
introduce this
the success
of these experiments,
it
The
first
all
182
ESSAY
IV.
GAUZE.
In
all
sunk alternately, or
to
at intervals,
each other,
But
in
gauze
and twined
to the right
like a
They
are twined
and
a representation of gauze,
drawn,
like the
and
will,
by
To
produce
this appearance,
really
it
is
warp should
its
The whole
variety
in
every branch
of the
art
of
effected
their
art, consists
arrangement
Fig.
1.
represents
to
warp
is
crossed.
The mounting,
leaves.
common
clasped heddles,
The
by means of top
levers, or coupers,
CROSS WEAVING.
in the
183
same way
as in
of the
gauze
is
the leaves
1
and
2,
The
leaves
necessary
forming
the sheds, the threads do not rise and sink alternately > as
in plain
weaving, nor
at
intervals
as in tweeling.
In
is
sunk;
not crossed,
and
in the
they
are,
By examining
is
these
figures,
the
way
of drawing the
this
will
The
is
it
always
rises,
it is
always sinks,
fourth
leaf.
When
is
is
more
plainly in
which
a horizontal, or
ground plan.
After
it
only remains
Of
the
rises
from
below.
This
Through
the under
is
leaf,
connected with
ESSAY
the standard 2, the thread
IV.
passes.
In Figs.
1.
and
2.
hung between
two standards
and 2 ; but
to place the
in Figs.
and
4.
By means
warp
is
open
shed Fig.
1.
work
in an opposite direction
rise
to the standards,
is
direct,
is
when
the mounting
warp
is
crossed.
and B, in Figs.
1.
and
2.
and
also in Figs. 3.
and
4.
where
are represented
by round
dots.
In Fig.
as in Fig. 1.
and
in Fig. 4. if
mounting
It
will be direct,
as in Fig. 2.
among weavers,
to repre-
upon paper.
But, in
may be
From
the
is
much more
difficult to
warp and
in the heddles,
cannot be
easily
represented,
without
CROSS WEAVING.
among
cross
185
operative weavers, to
is
whom
the knowledge of
weaving
knowledge
tempt
at representation.
paper,
which
warp.
In
my
have
mill wrights,
known among engineers, architects, and many other artificers, for the purpose
to illustrate
many
loom
mode
of mounting a gauze
more de-
The
novelty
my
me from
the
fail
knowledge of the
art so
perspicuous as
or
my own
my
readers' time
wholly misapplied,
if
the practica-
bility
paper,
consists of
two back
These
leaves,
half leaves.
are
moved by two
The
186
ESSAY
IV.
the under
the third,
the
fifth,
the
4.
first
back leaf
may
by connecting
The
and kept
tight
by weights,
in the cross
shed Fig. 2,
therefore, operate
must be
open.
It will
place, and,
way
in
are applied
leaves.
is
The lower
Plate 11
half leaf a,
it
See
Fig.
1.
2d,
The
is
first
first
The
march
below.
march
no connection
below.
The
first
to the
fourth short
march
below.
CROSS WEAVING.
6th,
187
leaf, to
the couper, to the fifth long march-, the leaf, to the fifth
short
march
it
only remains to
The mode
1.
Plate 11.
This figure
is
mounting of
whip
net,
of which
it
will be necessary to
treat afterwards.
In the
mean
common gauze
net,
it
is
whip
mounting.
b,
from
thence,
with
of the weights
short
therefore, as follows
on each
Above
the long
wood
(generally a piece
Another
piece, of the
same kind
is
y, is
suspended.
The same
and passes upon both sides of the third long march, for
the upper half leaf,
The
z.
pieces of
wood
are distinguished
by the
letters
v and
When
pulled
is
made, the
first
standard
is
down.
This
lifts
march, which,
consequently,
188
leaf a, to rise.
raised.
ESSAY
At
IV.
is
and
long march.
sink.
The upper
half leaf b,
thus allowed to
In forming this
shed,
the
standards
and half
leaves merely yield to the warp, for the raising and sink T
ing
is
entirely
leaves.
In the cross
and,
shed,
to perform,
therefore,
which they
pass.
From
The
The
examining Fig.
similar to those
which
is
a horizontal plan,
employed, to
illustrate other
branches of
weaving.
thread
first
A,
which
leaf 3,
back
is is
thread B,
leaf 4,
which
by
a white mark.
half leaf b,
a,
is
also denoted
by
a white,
by
a black mark.
marked
black;
and those
Where no
is
necessary, the
mark
is
used,
CROSS WEAVING.
As
189
no
is
mark
by the treddle
2.
The
when he
finds
it
convenient.
is
The
entirely
shed.
it
is
when
involves a recapitulation,
will not
who
may be
HEDDLES.
Front Mounting,
a, a half leaf; 1, a full leaf;
standard.
2, a full leaf j the second standard. b, a half leaf; the shaft above.
Back Mounting,
3, a full leaf;
4, a full leaf;
190
ESSAY
IV.
first
couper.
Upper
Second back
leaf,
*,
fifth
couper.
Under
half leaf, a;
1
>
first
short march.
First standard,
Second standard, 2;
First back leaf, 3
;
Second back
leaf,
from
first
first
long
march.
third
short march;
over third
CROSS WEAVING,
OPEN SHED TREDDLE
I.
191
Lower
First standard, 1
sunk.
2-,
Second standard,
raised.
Upper
raised.
Second back
leaf,
4 ; sunk.
2.
Lower
First standard, 1
raised.
Upper
half leaf,
b ; sunk and
tight.
Both back
leaves, stationary.
3.
Lower
First standard, 1
sunk.
2*,
Second standard,
raised.
tight.
Upper
Back
half leaf,
b \ raised and
leaves, stationary.
To form these
the marches
and treddles
LONG MARCHES.
Treddle
1
,
Treddle 2 ;
long march.
192
eSsAy
iv.
SHORT MARCHES.
Treddle
1 ;
-,
second and
fifth short
march.
Treddle 2
Treddle 3 ;
From
person,
who
possesses an ordinary
knowledge of common
care and attena
weaving, and
who
will study
them with
mounting
is
gauze loom.
When
thoroughly un-
derstood,
may be
used ;
easily acquired.
Many
varieties of net
work
are
which the
which
it
is
ne-
more par-
The most
simple of these
is
known by
the
name of
the
WHIP NET.
The
may be
term whip
is
In this net,
required.
whip net
is,
in every respect,
same way.
net,
is
a representation of this
upon
In every species
of net weaving,
common
CROSS WEAVING.
of the tweeling and carpet harness.
great friction, occasioned
.
193
arises
This
from the
and
parts
by
alternately slackening
Those
leaves in the
whip
behind
it*
way
in
and used
no other species of
The mounting
in
upon
which the
and bead
The principal difference of the whip net from common gauze, consists in this way of disposing
every shot.
the mounting, and in the
the warp.
way
of drawing, or leading in
cross each
The way
1 1
in
Plate
a horizontal
whole mounting.
The
is
crossings of
two
shown;
a,
front, passing
b,
is
doup
of the standard 2.
in front
The
threads
of warp, or whip,
in Fig. 2.
4,
is
crossed over A,
which
is
leaf 3,
as in
common
gauze.
drawn
in the
The
next crossing
and A, in different
194
lams.
ESSAY
IV.
1
and 2, Fig. 2,
and
let
slack.
The
first
same
split
will then
when
these
tight,
lams will be
direct.
Thus one
crossing
is
effected
by
wrought
alternately as in gauze.
It is
unnecessary
The
is is
apparatus
or
warp
is
slackened,
represented
a ratchet
is
Upon
placed.
round the
roll,
is
The
is
connected
at e.
This
lifted
is
whip
and
direct,
When
the treddle 2
pressed,
slack
tight.
The
range of the
may be
fulcrum
f,
may
re-
by cords gg, Fig. 1. which are called bridles, to keep the bead lams from being more tightened when forming the
CROSS WEAVING.
cross shed than
is
195
of these
if
necessary.
The tempering
cords
is
they
and
too long, the friction of the beads will very soon cut
employed
cordage of looms
Weavers
the
call it a
shown
way
of tying
The
is that
which
is
known by
the
name of
the
MAIL NET.
This
net, a representation of
is
which
is
given in Pig
17. Plate 4.
common
The gauze
the
whip
and so on
gauze, or
rolls;
alternately.
the
whip requires
The mounting
combined; but,
thought
it
is
whip net
as
may be
The
is
sometimes
a single set
this is the
made
to consist of only
two back
leaves,
and
When
open shed
is
effected
by the back
leaves, the
bead lams are sunk, and crossing the under part of the
shed rise again to the upper.
Where
is
196
to
ESSAY
must be sunk
IV,
stationary,
gauze
down
shaft.
raised,
and the
by
lam
This apparatus
is
h and
i,
The
reason of
to give the
The
is
which connects
bead lam shaft
with h
The
effect of this
Fig. 6.
is
bead lam
is
raised,
where
it is
Fig. 5.
ground
plan of
all
lam
shaft.
shaft.
Next
k, 3,
is is
is
which
CROSS WEAVING.
SHEDS OF THE MAIL NET.
Open whip
shed, t reddle 2.
197
Under lam
shaft, a; raised
1
;
and
slack.
First standard,
sunk.
raised.
Second standard, 2;
Upper lam
shaft, b;
Bead lam, k;
First net leaf,
raised.
S-,
raised.
Second net
First
leaf,
4^ sunk.
stationary.
gauze
leaf, 5; leaf,
Second gauze
6j stationary.
it is
to sink the
two gauze
leaves,
gauze
Two
purpose.
It will also,
the
Under lam
shaft,
a*,
raised
and
tight.
Upper lam
shaft, b;
sunk and
slack.
tight.
stationary. stationary.
Second net
First
leaf, 4;
leaf, 5;
leaf,
gauze
sunk.
Second gauze
6; raised,
198
ESSAY
IV.
1.
Under lam
shaft, a;
sunk and
tight*
Second standard, 2;
raised.
Upper lam
shaft, b; raised
and
tight.
slack.
4; stationary.
gauze
leaf, 5; raised.
Second gauze
leaf,
6; sunk,
TREDDLE CONNECTIONS,
Long Marches.
First, or plain treddle; 2, 3,
and
7.
5,
and
8.
Short Marches.
First, or plain treddle;
1, 2, 4,
and
6.
8,
7.
march
is
h, for
motion
case,
is
is
which, in
this
It may be proper
pf nets
is
required to
move
For
this
reason,
the
CROSS WEAVING.
centres of the treddles are placed behind,
199
and the weaver
power
exerted.
When
it
is
is
Upon
upon the
the
first
of
these, the
whip
is
rolled.
One
warp
By
may be
is
slackened independ-
gauze
is
crossed
when
the
whip
open,
that
it is it
found conyield to
little,
may
when
from
friction.
It is also
found
that,
when
slack,
For these
more mounting
is
leaves, or
part,
bead lams,
as in
common
when mounting
it
alternately.
two gauze
to
mountings.
The gauze
part
must be corded
form the
The whole
The whip
1.
Plate 11,
where the
shaded
200
Of
to say
ESSAY
much.
IV.
it
of the
having
in bed, has
it,
PATENT NET.
A representation of this
Its difference
net
is
is,
in, or
is
a combination of
is
and these
same way.
The mail
and, at one
net
is
drawn
alternately
tread, the
whip
splits
The two
halves
The draught
crossing of the bead lams, are represented in the horizontal plan, Fig. 8. Plate
1 1
.
similar to the
common way
whole crossing
is
warp
is laid
weaving.
shaded darker
CROSS WEAVING.
than the gauze, to distinguish
to
201
other,
and
in
which both
bead lams
is
The under
shaft of the
supposed to be raised,
and the upper shaft sunk, so that the lams may be perfectly slack.
The lams
by double
to
make
Those belonging
which
cross
in
are single
black lines.
will
The way
which these
lines are
drawn,
show
that the
in front,
both of the
The
shown
same way
of
this, as in
the mail net, the back gauze leaves must be the gauze bead lams are raised to form the
sunk,
when
gauze mounting
is
used, they
Fig. 9.
is
in the plan.
patent net.
,are
The bead
to
standards,
drawn
show
when viewed
in front.
The
in
The
threads
of warp, being
shown
section,
are represented
by
to
warp
is
drawn.
The
patent net
wrought
either
with
lam without
gauze
standards
part;
if
is
used,
two beams
Cc
202
beam
its
is
ESSAY
necessary.
IV.
As
in the
mail net y
it is
most common
same way
as the others.
1.
Under
First standard, 1;
Upper Gauze
First
whip
Second whip
stationary.
Second gauze
leaf,
6; raised.
2.
Under
Second standard, 2;
raised.
Upper Gauze
First
whip
gauze
raised.
Second whip
First
4j sunk.
leaf,
5 \ sunk.
sunk.
Second gauze
leaf, 6*,
The gauze
leaves, stationary,
with
full
mounting,
CROSS WEAVING.
THIRD SHED, TREDDLE
Under
lams, a; raised and tight.
3
203
Second standard, 2;
raised.
Upper Gauze
First
whip
stationary.
Second whip
First
4; sunk.
gauze
leaf,
5 \ sunk.
6; raised.
Second gauze
leaf,
4.
First standard,
raised.
Upper
lams,
b*,
sunk and
tight.
Gauze
First
whip
3; stationary.
Second whip
leaf,
4; stationary.
Second gauze
leaf,
6; sunk.
The gauze
There
are
leaves, stationary^
with
full
mounting.
many
more upon
To
to render
my
chief object.
Some
pf this Essay.
In the
mean
time,
we
proceed to give a
204
ESSAY
IV.
CATGUT.
To
those
who
The
principle of both
is is
exactly
The
at
crossed
and twined
one treading.
warp always
rise
open
alternately.
The
more
is
The most
simple
way
Plate 11.
when
opened.
The whole
set of
mounting
consists of
two back
leaves,
and a
bead
The open
At the next
shed
is
and
tread, the
Here the
threads,
and B,
rise
and sink
alternately, as
catgut,
it
is
appear by
where
the threads of
warp
are in section,
is
and
effected
is
produced by
when
the lam
is
pulled tight.
CROSS WEAVING.
Having
principles
205
essential
stated
of the
their
this
upon which
application to
common
few
practice,
shall
conclude
Essay, with a
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
In the
net, as in every other species of fancy weaving,
a boundless variety
may be
introduced.
all
As
it
would be
the varieties, I
mon
use.
common, which
are
figured
in particular places,
and
which These
by weavers,
DROPPED NETS.
To
effect this,
it
is-necessary to
mount
warp which
is
a
a
common
the
will
net.
The way
in
so very similar to
way
seems
A
the
much
used, and
is
called
^06
ESSAY
IV.
SPIDER NET.
This
net
has
merely a
The whip
part
usually,
composed
It
passes through a
may be
raised alternately.
is
By
these means,
and
left in a zig
On
is
Another net
known by
the
name
of the
net
is,
in
wrought
entirely
by the
first
There
is
BALLOON NETS.
These
cording
is
are also
mounted
like
The
gauze
so disposed,
may be continued
whip
part
is
twice repeated.
is slackened,
By
these
alternately to the
instead
of being
perfectly
straight.
There
are
many
fcftOSS
It
is
WEAVING.
the
all
207
weaving
knowledge and
dexterity-
can
Much
mounting
depends
nicely
upon having
tempered.
of
all
the
cords
of
the
This may be
knot
easily accomplished,
by means
It
is
the
snitch
formerly
described.
also
not the
when slack, are very apt to be entangled, which produces much inconvenience and trouble. The
lams
way
of treading
It is
is
shed.
is
relieved.
The
moving of
the lay,
which
exists in
is
made
of
silk.
This
is
proper,
friction.
common
to
as in gauze.
When
the bead
wrought
alternately,
When
shed,
leaves,
slack.
is
formerly
described,
The
is
cross
shed,
by
raising
The
latter
motion, that
208
is
<
ESSAY
IV.
#
and sinking both back
In forming the
to say,
by
leaves, the
lams being
kept tight.
from
remain
by
their
own
weight.
If,
secured,
by taking
leaf a,
a cord
ESSAY
ON THE
V.
WEAVING OF AND
SPOTS, BROCADES,
LAPPETS.
AVlNG now
to investigate the
finished
our
descriptions
use,
of
the
grounds, or fabrics, in
common
we
proceed
mode of adding
flowers,
and other
These ornaments
The most
COMMON
SPOTS.
The
and
is,
weaving of spots
is
effected
by additional
leaves
treddles, as in tweeling,
of ornamental work.
The
For the
customary in
this, as in
other branches of
210
ESSAY
V.
The
what
is
called a
common
splits,
between every
spot.
To
weave
this,
two
spot*,
but, as one
row of
A, B,
same
spots
is
thrown
bosom
as
formerly described.
The
it
show
The
black marks
on each
show
Opposite to the
The
left
is
and the
as represented. will
From
this
way of
it
raised,
and
produced.
all
When
the
third leaf,
alone
is
raised,
is
and
row of
spots
by means of a separate
one half of three
splits
splits,
As
only
are sunk,
inter-
woven
SPOT WEAVING.
the interval unto the next spot.
211
weaving
is
When the
when
The back
it
leaf 2,
works exactly
be
and
rows of spots
in the
diamond
form.
The
leaf B,
between the
spots.
The
portion of
is
warp
set
called
one
web
same
is
exactly repeated.
is
The
leaf
A, containing
containing the
intervals,
From
is
will appear,
I,
thus divided
2,
and
3,
form the
7,
left
hand spot;
4, 5,
and
8,
and
9, the right
The
all
show
is
treddles
connected with
the
The
squares
distinguished
by black
is
when
or,
to
be
-in
is
to
be connected
as
marches,
at
formerly
is
Where
treddle
the
square
is
the
crossing
not
made by
the
the
may
sink
leaf.
To work
this
1 is
hand
across;
again,
two
one of spotting;
and so on,
until the
spot
is
212
sufficiently large.
ESSAY
V.
to
form an
interval
after
in the
warp ;
which the
leaf
is
be raised, and
as the former.
way
Another
Upon
may
be
if a sufficient
number of
any
leaves
employed.
limits,
It
would very
far
exceed
moderate
to investigate the
may be
rest
practicable.
all
The
the
may be accomplished
spot described,
is
at the
The
called a
common
and
is
the
half of the
leaf,
half.
on one
and scarcely
cloth
is
at all
upon the
other.
The
texture of the
For
this reason,
recourse has
spots,
which
on both
sides,
superior in
These are
usually called
PAPER SPOTS.
These
spots
not
only
require
nearly
double the
much
more tedious
manufactured
This increases
any
great
extent,
made
at different times.
SPOT WEAVING.
Fig. 2.
is
218
But
it
will also
and of
This
upon ten
splits
twenty
thirty splits.
like
thrown
into the
bosom of
leaves.
and, of
wrought by additional
The mounting
of plain cloth,
and B,
between the
leaves.
spots,
The
to 10, contain
one
Of
course,
when
these
two
produced.
1 1
The
to
1
leaves
from
back
to 5,
on the front
left
set,
and from
5,
on the
to
set,
work the
10, and
is
from 16
hand
spot.
The
cording
at the
represented at the
By examining
upon
it
lower part of
a
if
comparison of
this
with the
hand
leaves
are pressed
down
so
as
to
The second
first,
made by
and
The
right
hand
treddles,
wrought
same
214
ESSAY
V.
bosom
of
represented,
may be reduced
away
to
all
from
to 10,
Twelve
sufficient.
be
spot
is
wanted,
like the
specimen, both of
common and
common
is,
As above mentioned,
leaf,
that
warp
ground
number of
plain,
doubled,
ALLOVER SPOTS.
Fig.
3,
spot, set
upon twenty
splits,
the
the leaf
A,
as,
all
the
bosom of the
web
The
in the design,
splits
from which
it
is
two
splits
SPOT WEAVING.
nineteen and twenty, are added, to
is
215
that the spotting
all
show
to
be continued
same
over the
intervals of plain,
Any
twenty
splits,
and whose
sides
are
similar,
may
be wrought by this
may be
required.
To work
the
from eleven
back to one.
falsing cords,
The
which extend
mond, or
corners,
Those
at the other
careful inspection of
If the last
men-
Or
a spot of any
may be
all.
by adapting the
raising cords to
lift
the leaves
required.
Upon
principles the
same
as the above,
spot patterns
the
two
sides of the
this is
where
not
comes necessary.
Fig.
1.
Plate 13.
is
an example of
it
this.
The
spot
design,
becomes, therefore,
necessary to allow a leaf of heddles for every thread contained in the range of the spot,
which
is
ten
splits.
The
is,
as usual,
The
216
twenty-two leaves;
ESSAY
V."
ally
is
the figure
depend
entirely
connections.
designs, and
beeii
immense
the spot
variety,
is
When
regular, or
when
two
sides of
it
are similar,
drawn through
same time
figure
is
irregular, or
when no two
parts of
correspond, only
leaf,
it
spot extending to ten splits, the fifth and sixth form the
centre; and that the
two
sides,
from
five to one,
and
from
from
the centre.
splits, for
numbers
five
and
six pass
through one
in the
leaf,
same
same
leaves.
In Fig.
different.
The two
ferent.
every thread
must be independent of
the
others*
SPOT WEAVING.
requires ten leaves.
217
spot,
is
The
particular
form of the
To
splits
fix
it
is
only necessary to
number
and treddles;
as, for
example, in
Fig.
1;
Plate 13.
splits
on the design be
at
also
num-
beginning
at the front,
and then
numbered
in the
same way,
First, then,
beginning
One
half of the
whole warp
is
drawn through
a, crosses
the front leaf A, and the other half through the remaining
leaves.
the
leaf
A, the
mark
is
mark
also placed.
leaf
is
when
spot.
is
sunk,
all
Proceed
next to the
hand
The
first
threads to be raised
five,;
in this spot,
are
Two
five.
raising
The
is
number of
may be
these
is
in the design,
once formed,
it is
pressing
down
Ee
218
often as
ESSAY
maybe
required.
lift,
V.
1.
In Fig.
are
all
The
right
hand spot
is
merely
manner of placing
will always
When
is
completed,
it
it
When
2.
the
3.
two
and
3.
When
it
this has
become
familiar,
from study or
practice,
as
it
will be unnecessary to
formed
the
when
besides,
clipped away,
a certain
all
and,
which
is
clipped
is
totally lost.
To remedy
are
called
is
these incon-
veniences, another
mode
and goods of
finger spots.
this
description,
or
that of
of these
very similar to
which
generally interwoven
finger,
into
the fabric
by the hand, or
finger spots.
whence they
receive the
name of
SPOT WEAVING.
In mounting brocade looms,
it
219
is
bosom of
formed by a thread
independent of
all
the others,
may be
which
will exactly
produce the
spot, will be
found in Fig.
2. Plate
13.
The draught
varied to any
may be
is
figure
figure required.
only seventeen
twenty-
three
splits.
The
is
treddles
to be fingered in working.
The
plain
is
by
boy or
girl,
employed
To
reduce
In one, the
spotting
number of
by
small shuttles, in a
way nearly
metal,
loom.
circular
carried .through
brass,
of
generally
which are
circle cut
moved by
out.
a rack,
The number
220
it
ESSAY
difficult,
if
V.
would be
description,
however minute,
be the
perspicuous.
The want
will
brocades have
In the specimen,
is
it
not
woven
somewhat
like tweeling.
This
is
gen-
more
to be
brilliant.
When
had*
as in the
SPOT
DRAW LOOM.
The
little
principle
The
spot
two of which
weaving.
plain,
common
ness,
The
spotting
is
effected
by the har-
and the
by the leaves
in front.
The
heddles,
as in the other
Various
in
mounting.
Of
and saw.
perfection as to save
much
draw loom
is,
The
reading
on of the design,
Only
one,
SPOT WEAVING.
thread passes through
221
The common, or
as in
The
same
mount-
The
from
its
is
the
LAPPET.
The
which
lappet
is
is
web.
In most instances,
together.
It is
whip
consists of
number of
splits
When
either of
was
raised,
But, a
much more
and
been brought
into practice,
lams.
into
which
number
The
is
is
lappet needle
is
is
formed
flattened
it
by
to
hammering.
small hole
The
is
hole
and the needle being polished and pointed, the other end,
after
being sharpened,
This shaft
222
is
ESSAY
V.
being up.
susceptible of
first,
from
right to left,
of the whip
form
the pattern.
The second
it
is
a vertical motion,
by which
whip
may be
This motion
the lay
is
is
is
communicated by the
whenever
when
the lay
is
brought to the
fell,
its
to
strike
home
own
the
weight.
When
called a
wanted,
more frames
fabric
is
are used.
When
two
are employed,
This apparatus
which move
the pattern
in
consists
is
forming;
left,
the
Sometimes,
or to
made
When
the pattern
is
uniform, that
is
to say,
when
the
same number of
splits
is
or pattern motion,
But,
when
it is
vary, to
wheel of
a particular construction
in this
way
are called
SPOT WEAVING.
WHEEL
LAPPETS.
is
223
The
very ingenious,
will not be in
my power
my
descrip-
have thought
it
of
less
which
it
would be necessary
to give
upon
this
and
many
an expence upon
means
The wheels
of the loom.
are
at
one side
The circumference is formed like a ratchet wheel, having as many teeth as there are shots of weft in the pattern, and one tooth is moved between every shot, the wheel revolving in centres. To lay down the pattern,
upon
a
wheel of
this kind,
analogy to the
way
loom.
The
number of squares
two flowers
to
work one
line
flower,
The
side of the
wheel has a
tre, to
number of
number
By
marking these,
breadth, a rule
or diminishes in
in the flat
22'i
ESSAY
V.-
An
iron pin
is
fixed in the
sides
The
mode
is
called
PRESSED SPOTTING.
The
looms of
this description,
which
have seen,
but,
to
it
is*,
equally
applicable
is
to
plain,
as
tweeled
weaving.
The
fabric
of cotton,
The loom
frames, or
a double
Two
are
like
frame lappet.
These
pressers,
is
when
is
up
that portion
spots>
of warp which
to
form the
to
interval
between the
As
increased or
diminished.
treddle,
The
by an additional
six inches
by
down
SPOT WEAVING.
impressed, to form the interval.
225
The same
apparatus
is
One
of the
wrought by each
the wheel, and these sides are cut to form the pattern.
This apparatus
for fabrics
is
when
warp
For,
warp
is
will be better to
work with
leaves.
the pressed
rest*,
and
it
may
may
pass a thread
which ought
much
accuracy
required.
The
was
that
which
at
Spring
Gardens,
is,
in general,
principle as that
lappet.
Some
by power.
When
being
spots are
formed upon
nets,
ought to have
been
wrought
plain.
I think
it
at all,
Indeed,
it is
not
much out
Ff
226
woven
ESSAY
same way.
V.
In
common
spots
is
of this deincluded in
warp of the
selvages
the ground
13.
leaf,
The
case
is
Two
plain leaves,
to each of the
are,
mountings,
shown
in
Plate
11.
They
generally,
placed behind the net leaves, and are corded to the treddles
in other fancy
weaving, namely,
ESSAY
ON TKE
VI.
;CONOMY OF WEAVING, SIMPLIFICATION, OR OMISSION OF PROCESSES, DIVISION OF LABOUR, AND APPLICATION OF POWER.
the preceding Essays, we have endeavoured to INinvestigate the common manual processes, most frefive
much
and
as the plan
limits of this
As
already noticed in
know-
ledge
of weaving
all
many important
The
England;
been
manufactured
in
that country,
in value to the
woollen goods.
The
228
ESSAY
VI.
much more
recently
improvement.
Still,
however, in so far
as the greatest
chiefly the
staple, the
as
its
situation as formerly.
The manufacture
of linens has
many
attempts
its
An anonymous
"
6i
publication
was printed
at
Edinburgh, in
The
its
police,
its
employing the
poor,
its
Agriculture,
its
Trade,
Manufactures, and
Fisheries."
As no name appears in the title, I have not been able to ascertain who was the author of this work. But, it is evidently the production of a man of talent and education. The sentiments contained in it, are liberal and benevolent, and, when a reasonable allowance is made for the, prevalent opinions of the age in
which
merit.
it
was written,
it
ap-
pears a
work of uncommon
Many
of the author's
able
and
Adam
modern economists.
many
some of which
by experience, to be
fallacious.
He
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
is
229
and
liberal
must
article,
foreign
Upon
this
principle,
which seems
number of
injudicious expe-
made
to establish
manufactures
of
silk,
many
other
articles,
articles
He
speculations,
if
all
judiciously applied,
more than
suf-
establish
and promote a
staple
manufacture,
in other
countries.
but seems
most favourable
for
its
culture,
was much
the
artizans.
shall
To remedy
the
first,
flax
colonies,
which have
from
this country,
ever.
miums,
purpose of in-
He
and
280
ESSAY
VI.
to
effect
it
these
Indeed,
seen
so
appears
singular,
person
who had
clearly the
manufac-
He
idle persons
until they
become
to be expedients admirably
He
also
at a
proper age,
may be taught to weave and spin. He considers only way of saving the weavers from idleness and
fall,
them
to the hospital,
when, he
may
He
seven
weave upon
his
own
for his
is
to be
thrown
by collections
at
contributions.
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
The work appeared soon
231
member of
that
all
least,
to have
had access to
As
cannot be
known, and
an account
manu-
means by which
insert
it
their
I shall
entire.
THE PREFACE.
Many
f
<
Poverty,
This
is
Use
* c
Furniture,
are partly
imployed
our Expence.
The manufactured
in
Value
to those
P c
we
to
bring in;
we must
either starve at
home, or go abroad
where
*
it is
to be earned
Many Schemes
entred
:
but in vain.
I
4
Numbers
into
Times,
Resolutions,
use
no foreign
Manufactures
Effect, because
to serve them-,
we had no Manufactures
1
'
own
nor indeed can any Nation, where the Poor are imployed
in
Manufacture, serve
itself
It is
232
*
ESSAY
to
VI.
sells to
enough
Advantage
it
in
in
such
Quantities, as
may be
to hurt
equal in Value to
all
the foreign
this
Goods we consume
Kind would be
too
at
home.
An
Attempt of
Where
them
many
is
must
cool,
Country
for
own
own Country,
if
foreign
Commodity
best and
are as
our
as
own Manufactures
low
in their
good of
and
Goods of other
at
abroad or
home.
but Manufacture
may be
Manuout of
Linen Cloth
is
facture
we
a
now Time
Mind:
in
It is carried
Way
is
which
Commodity of
Use
at
Demand
foreign
at those
we
purchase
Goods of
we make them
it
would
to answer our
Demands
for foreign
Commodities.
But
it
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
<
*
238
discouraged;
it
from
none more,
that
than
the
indiscreet
to
Attempts
have been
made
introduce
Other
all
possible Advantages
by other
to
Aid
of foreign Trade.
*
Had
all
the
Money
that has
lost
by
in the
Improvement
we have so long complained of, had been long ere now cured and prevented-, but our Thoughts were, from Time to Time, turned upon new Projects, which we pusht up
and Extension of the Linen Trade, those Evils
Hill with great Eagerness, until they
for us, while our
carried
We have
Generation
this,
and
the
present
if
we
bent
all
Way.
This
was
our
Condition
when
the
Royal
Boroughs,
who
under their
serious
Consideration the
State
of
our
Con-
Gg
234
6
ESSAY
in
VI.
of their
and
several
subsequent Meetings,
grand
The
<
(
and
Schemes,
for
the
retrieving
our
Manufactures
and
Fisheries, to these
<
Meetings:
The Result
of
all
*
c
mously resolved
and to make a
at London,
*
f
who were
Monies
(settled
by
Law
for
* c
all
Misapplication of them
Number
this
to repair to London, at
Expence, to make
effect
Application effectual.
The
was
to the
Convention
'
by
his Majesty's
Superscribed George R.
We
greet
you
well.
"We
having observed,
that
the
several
Sums
of
Money
by
"
**
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
have
4t
it
235
ft
Manner
in
for the
"
i(
said Purposes.
And
it
u Hindrance,
good
to
as speedily as
may
be,
We
have thought
first
recommend
to you, that, at
your
general
" Meeting in the Month of July next, you do take into your Consideration the State of the said Fisheries and " Manufactures, and of the Monies provided for encour" aging the same, and
(C
that,
mittees of your
Number, you do
iC
"
you
shall
"
*c
of the said
Sums towards
" Improvements
" do return to Us the Propositions in which you shall " have agreed, to the end, that, upon due Consideration
"
thereof, a certain
Method may be
" cation and Management of those Sums for the future. " The Welfare of our loving People of Scot/and, and the
" Prosperity of the Royal Boroughs, is so much concerned " in what We recommend to you, that We doubt not u you will go on in the Execution of what is expected
" from you, with the utmost Diligence, Unanimity, and & Impartiality: And, on Our Part, We assure you of Our
i(
in
what you
shall
" propose for the real Good of your Country, consistent " with the general Interest of Our united Kingdom. " And so We bid you heartily farewel. Given at our
" Court of Kensington the seventh Day of June 1726.
in
236
ESSAY
VI.
the twelfth Year of Our Reign. Counter-signed by " his Majesty's Command. Holies Newcastle."
*
this
Concern
the Hearts of
all
his
and promised^
their
Number,
"
Upon
was
" most effectually answer his Majesty's most gracious " Intention of encouraging the Trade of Fishing, and
Kingdom,
relative
and
impowered them
to
receive
Proposals
" thereto, from any particular Royal Borough, or any " other Society, or private Persons, tefcV
"
On
were
" drawn up for this Committee, who were to sit after " the rising of the Convention, and were appointed to " have their Plan in readiness to be laid before the next
."
Wednesday of November
fol-
" lowing. This Committee was Advice and Assistance of, and
(t
consult with
all
Persons
who had
Skill
" Branches of Trade or Manufacture that might be pro" pos'd to be improven, and were specially directed in
their
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
*<
237
the
the whole
Monies
that
might annually
arise for
l.
"
and secured
it
"
might not
" be charged with the ordinary Expence of Management, " it being the Intention of the Convention, from their
"
earnest
Desire
to
and
" "
"
Manand
" agement."
in,
'
c
them from
Meetings,
different
mitted to them,
and,
in
at
all
those
several
Gentlemen,
skilled
\i
assisted,
'
Law
for the
Improve-
ment of
<
his Majesty,
f
c
Amendments made, was approven of by the Convention. The Sum of this Plan is ingrost in his present
Majesty's Letters Patents, bearing Date at St. James's
July 5. and passed the Seals July 18. 1727. which are
printed.
f
The Convention,
at the
their
<
'
vention,
(i
That the
238
" much depended on
t(
ESSAY
VI.
that
it
was
to
their
Duty
their
to
a Power
make
Number
to repair to
London
of
in
" upon their Expence, and there, in Name and Behalf " the Royal Boroughs, to lay before his Majesty,
" obedience to his most gracious Letter, the general and " particular Plans agreed upon by the Convention, for
" promoting
"
this
the
Fisheries
" and
li
to
might be most
promoting, encouraging,
to the
Heads
which
this
said
Committee."
All which
itself,
Act of Parliament
was
past that
it
were dispersed.
all
the
till
<
severally
larly
Act
itself,
resumed
Crown by
the said
the Act,
therein
are
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
*
239
committed
directed:
And
shall
here beg
Leave
to
refer
the
itself,
to the
in
Meeting
Borough
11*2*1.
Room
at
July
and Methods
to
Gentleman
to
much
His SufE-
ciency. Diligence,
<
4
The
them by
first
Part of their
Work,
form
Funds, upon
This
Reader
we
in Discourse,
and
this contributes
to
its
Success.
Ways
240
JSSSAY
VL
Time and Attendance
The
And
I observe,
from
their
Many
missive Letters,
upon
different Branches,
Management
of
many
and Proposals of Improvements, and of the most frugal and expeditious Methods of carrying on several Branches
to the best
*
*
tary
And
I observe,
from
Minutes, that
all
these
are
always duly
Satisfac-
to the Persons
who
send them.
this
4
The good
Effects of a Correspondence of
Kind
are obvious.
mencement of
that
Time, were
this
it
not
Preface to a
greater
itself \
whole Conduct,
in the Distribution
and Application of
is
summed
pursuant
up
in their annual
Report
to the King-,
and
that,
or true
thirty
Copy
of this Report
is
annually given
in,
within
Days
Committee of
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
e
241
is
by them
where
upon
perused by
all
all
the
Members
in the
Hands of
< *
them; any
may
*
<
any Time,
in the
Hands
Persons of
all
Ranks
express, on
many
Occasions,
<
P.
what
Effects the
the Linen
f c
what new
been introduced
at the publick
Charge
How
far these
still
are
to
far
how
Law
9
s
Many
upon
this
observing
that
ance, to bestow as
own Unfitness for the Performmuch Time (as his necessary Attendprivate Affairs
*
c
own
to
much conversant,
to Writing, to the
end
Hh
242
ESSAY
may be
VI*
more Knowledge
in these
Matters,
same Kind
of this
to better Purpose.
And now,
it is,
that nothing
adventured to send
to every Reader,
abroad, such as
4 it
4
who, he hopes,
in
it,
will consider
with
the same
View he had
f
4
at least of
may be
carried
on
4
4
and Prosperity of
4
this
Country depends,
In the
first
bad Effects of
the whole
a
as
it
it
affects
Body
Theft and
He
of
* *
4
our Grounds,
and of the
great
Advantages of
Method
for the
at first
improven.
In the
this
Country; of the
now
are,
on with Loss; of
liable
several
Trades that
now
and are
to be
overstockt,
*
4
Methods
to
prevent this;
of -the
Improvement and
Way
to
imploy
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
^ all
6
243
tion Trade,
an America to their
Mother Country,
to
raise
especially if they
Materials for
Home-
9
*
Improvement
and
Extension
of
the
Manufacture
England and
of
home-made
Linen Cloth
<
in Scotland,
Ireland,
*
<
Country, as
it is
at this
Time, and of
its
Progress
November 1727.
Upon
Perusal of
this
Part since
it
was
*
.
intended to have
spoke
omitted,
namely,
bad
*
s
This
is
said to
*
f
Method
that
their
tell
of making up
Yarn
so uncertain
and precarious,
no Persons
who
Numbers
of Threads.
No
less
the
'
Yarn
as
Check,
come
for
*
to sort his
to recur
Yarn
for
Use,
it
will then
be too
late
him
upon the
Seller.
The most
is
probable
Way
to
is
Evil,
f"
c
where, and
the
Funds appropriated
it,
for encouraging
it
is
244
*
ESSAY
Wheels
VI.
in the
same
Way
<
And when
any Alteration or
<
Amendment of the Linen Act of Parliament is propos'd, the Use of Hand-reels may be discharg'd, and every
false
<
made with
still
prevails in
Spinners, which
altho' the
is
the
Use
Act
Yarn
shall
be made up by
<
*
* (
Reels,
<
be destroyed, and
confiscated.
be
strictly enjoined to
illegal
make
<
<
than as the
Law
directs.
is
The Use
only sure
<
Way
to prove
Yarn, both
as to its
<
Weaver uses this Method in making up a Parcel of Yarn for every Piece of Cloth, because he discovers, to a Certainty, if all the Yarn intended to
ness; every good
is
precisely of the
same
Number
in
Fineness.
likewise be of .great
Use
to the Dealers in
tell
Yarn ; they
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
all
245
differs
the rest
by Weight with
it,
in
The Parliament
Improvement of
their
Linen-manufacture, no Defect
is
ment, than
at
it
is
done.
The Trustees
in Ireland gave,
all
made,
in different
several
great
Numbers
They
of good
Weavers.
careful to remove,
were
in
Use
Fairs.
to be
paid upon
s
it
at
Immunity with
are a Part
that of Ireland.
of the
Revenue they
them
costs
very near as
much
and the
Reality:
fall
on
Ways
to dispose
246
<
ESSAY
VI.
<
of Provisions in those
Fairs are held.
Towns where
The Town-council
their Consideration
some Years
They
Revenue
<
The Effect of this was, that numbers of Country Weavers, who used to carry their Cloth for Sale to the
Kind.
Towns
still
it
4
levied,
lyes at a
I
now bring their Cloth to Dundee, much greater Distance from them.
do
They
this
chief
And when
Matter
Branch of
a Trifle of
Revenue, scarce
<
worth
collecting,
<
all
either at
weekly Markets, or
Country
The
Weaver
to set
up and carry on
his
Trade
in
any
Town
or Incorporation in the
Kingdom wherever he
pleased,
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
that
247
The Weavers
to the
in this
Use
to admit
Freedom
and
is
Terms
up
his
who
Trade
a
in
any
Town
of
Freeman or
Member
would prove
agement
to
to the
Linen-manufactUre,
work and
they could do
to the best
Advantage, upon
Cloth as the
likewise
offices,
Law
directs:
all
And
if all
Weavers were
exeemed from
it
would be the
better,
increase their
*
Number.
It is
ordinary
Genius,
who
applies
himself
close
to
his
Business, can
work and
finish a Piece of
Cloth very
when he
is
it
found
Cloth by himself,
skilful
Master.
is
It is therefore
proposed,
made
to the
it
Linen
this
Act,
that there
ought to be a Clause in
to
248
ESSAY
VI.
Law
conform themselves to the Observation of the Rules and Regulations contained in the Linen
to
Act of Parliament.
e
last
upon our
Fisheries,
Care to be encouraged.
He
some
Methods
Author
and
in this,
as, it
ifr
Manner
to speak or write
what they
what
Society
The Liberty or Servitude of a Nation, appears as much from their Writings, as from any other Part of
c
their
Conduct
in Life.
liable to
be
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
249
Imployments:
And
< *
<
Indecent
Men
in
Use; they
<
Men,
them on
Guard
<
6
Law, which
is
their
The Conduct
is,
of Princes, Ministers,
by comparing
Truth
is
easily discerned.
Whereas, under
arbitrary
<
6
Every
Man
in
Power
is
a great
and
good Man,
at least
so long as his
the worst
The same
Orange,
who
spent their
<
Law
<
Yoke.
6
When
to
and not
then,
the
f
c
and Truth
is
essay
*
vr.
This
is
*
4
so strong an Impression
make upon
the
Minds of Men,
on
many
Awe
and Dread
uncontroulable Power,
The Author
eral Subjects
he treats
* c
Or
if
if
may
Way
if
'
Supplement to
this
Discourse; or
another Edition
*
6
shall
be wantedj by
Way
to
which they
refer.'
also copy.
<
Of Parliament'
commenced the
first
November
727.
'
Year preceeding
Value.
1,047,254*
L.66850
10
04
Total Quantity,
2,183,973
.103312
09
08
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
<
*
251
first
November 1729.
L. 598 15
14?
South,
1,213,0131
2,0 12,1 42^
09
11
North,
Total,
54568
04
19
*
'
3,225,155|
1,041, 177|
first
.114383
11071
08*
Increas'd 1729.
10
00
November 1730.
South,
1,537,0112,218,651
Z.68777
62485
L, 131262
00
15
'North,
'Total,
'
09J 021
3,755,622-
15
^M
04-|
Increase,
530,506first
16878
}6
m
10-
1,621,679^
-
'North,
'Total,
-
r
-
2,269,93^
3,891,57.3
66178
, 145656
15
14
18
03
/Increase,
135,91Qf
first
14393
03t
November 1732.
'South,
"*
1,751,038-
L.86566
81955
L. 168322
17 17
07
'North,
'Total,
'
-----
2,633,794^ 4,384,832-
0310|
14
Increase,
<
493,259J
22666
00
074
This
is
besides Cloth
made
for private
Use, of which
'
<
been
lately
made
since the
Commencement
of this Act.
at the
'
The Values
'
are taken
up by the Stamp-masters
consequence
lowest Estimate.
Increased
in
five
Years,
in
of the
'
Execution of
this
Encouragements
'In Value,
r
in
-
.65,0 10
252
ESSAY
L. 932,6 17
VI.
of value L. 764,294
6$.
The
years
author,
it
promotion
which he quotes,
Linen
many
proposals of
enumerated.
to
many
which the
have
scarcely,
at
all,
interfered;
grounds
to
manu-
very
trite
observation, that
mankind
will always
it
present case.
The
invention
of the
of spinning-
by the
late Sir
The
in
first
web,
entirely of cotton,
which was
woven
1773.
Scotland,
in this country
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
The
253
much
Little,
the
first
calicoes
were made
in 1772.
was generally
intro-
Some water
twist
From
began gradually
to
came
much
finer muslins,
than any which had been spun upon the water frames.
astonishing rapidity,
to the spinner.
manu-
among manufacturers,
The want
it
of stamp-masters,
and,
consequently,
is
fair
to presume,
that
Some
frauds, indeed,
practised,
where
is
254
ESSAY
VI.
when
in
similar description,
and equally
demand
market.
tions,
It is,
however,
fair to
for the
prevention of frauds,
necessary,
when
with
acquainted
restrictions
of
trade;
but
these
at
become
totally useless,
more advanced
period.
At
ture, a
weekly, making in
all
7200 hanks, or
six millions
and
when
and the
stuff good,
is
What
it is
between
by the
distaff or
common
all
is
to
be
those,
employed
the
preparatory
processes,
which
are
necessary to
Besides the
number quoted,
is
now esteemed
I
very
much
finer than
in this country
in the old
way.
but
shoul4
suppose
it
much more.
It is
The
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
of
255
improvement
all
almost
which has
sixpence per
pound weight.
shillings
and fourpence-halfpenny.
raw material
lings per
has,
shil-
pound.
produced a temporary
of price, and
when
the market
was again
this,
as
in
other
commodities-
On
the
average,
may
of
freight
occasioned by
war premium of
form
money
price.
fit
number of
yarn, during
been two
shillings
first
pound (which
is
and spinner's
profit, will
be thirty-four
shillings.
In the
In the
of manufacturing
raw
will
256
ESSAY
VI.
price of labour has
constantly increased; a very singular proof of the prodigious efficacy of judiciously applied improvement in the
mechanical
arts.
from
flax,
no reduction of labour
has,
found useful
in effecting
some reduction,
raw
The
fibres
of
flax,
from
their length,
and
inelasticity, are
which
is
judi-
may, no doubt,
still
greatly improve
its
ever becoming a
sufficient to
account
The
upon
own
legs,
has constantly
That,
moment
Angus,
is
The
cotton,
it
on the
which
presents,
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
growth of a giant; so
far
257
from requiring
aid or encour-
state, the
raw
some
course
has been,
trade,
markets
The
price,
lyes,
raw
material
Much has
nor does
it
appear to afford
The
great
improvement
in the quality of
still
to
be done.
all
the opera-
of manufacturing,
many
found
it,
employ
their
own
Considerations
some years
weaving,
past, to
particularly
coarse
goods,
by various
Of
now
Kk
258
Cotton yarn
a cone,
is
essay
wound upon
and these are called
vr.
the spindle, in the form of
cops.
The
when
been to
conveniency of
required.
When
made
into
cloth.
first
Essay.
The
first
means
at
upon
the bobbin,
by means of
are
a machine,
at the
by which a
number of bobbins
made.
It
wound
same time.
To
if
prac-
ticable,
in the cop,
before
chief
in
it
The
was found
to arise
rolled together,
which rendered
starch,
and afterwards
To remove
the
first,
an
was conwas
when
Upon
trial, this
was found
to succeed
still
found excessively
the
difficult.
am
effectually
in
the
The
general mode.
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
therefore,
is
259
to
bobbin, to
starch the
warp
in the chain.
Of
different kinds
by the foot
like a turning-lath,
and others
is
The
latter
mode
un-
number of bobbins
person
who
in
attends
the
machine
will
employed
When
it is
power
is
employed,
if
the
may be
the foot,
is
generally
removed.
By
stated, I
am
They
and operation.
The bobbins
are placed
upon
frame of a
drum,
in the
same way.
The
common heart traverse, as it is called, used in water spinning. The most recent and best constructed, which
have seen,
is
at
As
general
wound
rather in the
fectly flat,
wheel
so,
260
that one side of
it
ESSAY
VI.
part of the bobbin, and the other side so that the traverse
and accelerated
yarn
is
at
each end.
By
these means,
more
wound upon
alternate traverse,
small
applied to the
yam
during this
revolving on
It is calculated,
woman, by one of
wind about
common
a considerable saving
is
must take
conducted
place
upon
stantly.
In dyed warps,
it
have seen
general system of
economy
in the manufacture of
of
which
I shall
now
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
This system, in so
cesses,
is
261
not very
much
different
described.
rather
twist,
The
cloths manufactured
were
plain,
and
coarse.
A portion
was
these
spun,
upon
a roller or
beam.
certain
number of
warp.
By
The warp
received no
The
of operations
A machine
that the
was there-
whole web,
subsequent
before
it
was put
Two beams,
warp was
of
the
machine,
the
gradually
wound from
these beams,
During
this
process,
supplied with the stuff for dressing, by means of a horizontal roller, revolving in a trough containing the stuff,
in a
manner
winding machine.
The
dressing
by means
hands in the
effected
common
process;
and
this
by
After
this,
the
rollers,
262
which were attached
from the centre,
ESSAY
VI.
These, by a
air,
warp
being
and brushed,
previous to
its
wound upon
were kept
wet
state,
The
lease
was preserved by
the beam.
a set of heddles,
wound upon
wood,
Upon
the
beam
warp
were
jlanches of
The
only
improvement
in
the
construction of the
it
generally called,
to
draw
bores.
The
moved by
by
upper extremity
Some
many
obstacles
presented themselves
against
it.
The
chief of these
first
it
Essay, that
the
for dressing,
although
increases the
is
not
when
that
may be
easily conceived,
the
early
stages
of
this defect
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
would not
excite
263
much
and are and even
much
attention,
nor produce
inconvenience.
still,
Weavers' shops,
in those days,
floor,
this,
In consequence of
the air in
warp
at once,
little
and
weaving
venience
it
incon-
is
facility
with which
air,
acted on by a current of
seems
motion by
a fan,
moved by
the
economy of
and
this
warp
For
at once.
be necessary, that
this
warp
much
web through
twisting one
web
to the
end of another.
Now,
it
until
means
for
warp
in a
proper state
does
story high,
more
especially if the
I
when
that Essay
was written,
have
who
have resided
264
country; but I
inquiries have
ESSAY
am
VI.
been
from
satisfactory.
None
of those
with
They
agree,
however 3
by
before using
it
for dressing,
it
entirely caused
by the weather,
also the stuff
is
Whether
fermentation, I
am
still
equally ignorant.
flour or potatoe dressing,
it
common
generally considered to
be better after
has been
Yest or
barm
is,
therefore, sometimes
mixed with
it,
to
promote
fermentation.
Butter milk
is
also
are only
made by
operative
is
to be dried
by the
little
fan,
there seems to be
much
art.
any sub-
common
use,
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
would possess
this property,
265
much
must
also require a
sonable time.
But these
much
prac-
all
the dressing
their
much impeded
the threads of
of dressing,
have always
of the
air,
this
tendency.
at intervals,
To
prevent
this, the
yarn
is
slightly
brushed
to co-
while drying.
hesion, occurs in warps dressed by machinery, and presents a very great obstacle to their speed.
The
reeds
wet
state,
and
disadvantages.
broken,
must
left in
wet
When
the
them through
all
Of
course,
when
many
and fan-
more breakage.
Besides this,
when long
exposed,
it
is
LI
266
often too
essay
much
be
vr.
mere
actioit
of the
air, to
weaving.
A
ston,
dressing machine,
since,
somewhat
different in principle,
was invented
Glasgow.
For
as
The warp,
at the
is
in the other,
ends of
lodged
upon
beam
in the middle.
machine
which
on
cylinders,
similar to those
of a carding engine.
The
own
axles*
Upon
air.
cylinders,
agitate the
fan
is
placed, to dry
It
the
after
the
brushing.
is
then
completely dried
by the second
fan,
which
is
of the machine
more
to the
common manual
process, and
may,
it
in that respect,
by the
reeds,
are
more obviated by
this
no provision, whatever,
This
is
dressing.
With
all
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
yarn
is
267
snarls.
entirely free
from
inequalities,
is
lumps, and
at pains to
remove
in the preparatory processes, both to prevent obstructions in his sheds, and to improve the appearance of his cloth,
when woven.
of the mind,
ery.
It
As
this process
by mere machine
of the operation
may be
effected
which
uniform, by ma-
An
experiment of
scale,
this nature
was
lately
made, upon
a small
by Mr. Dunlop,
at Barrowfield,
been
tically
Upon
its
The machine
constructed,
common
already noticed.
common warping mill, and beamed The beam upon which the warp was
beam
of a
way.
rolled,
was then
common
loom.
At
when
same
beam of
loom.
The
common way.
When
the
web was
the receiving
raised a
more
picking
The
rods were
268
combed down, from
ESSAY
VI.
to
the receiving
the
discharging
beam, the warp picked and brushed by manual labour, in the usual way, and the lease rod placed on its edge.
Under
the
warp was
a circular
wooden
fan,
which was
now
set in
The
fan
was
aperture only
circumference.
During the
its
moved upon
centre
by
common
by the
part
being too
much
hardened.
"When
the
yarn was
dressed,
portion of
to
operation,
in the
same manner,
until
the whole
re-
ceiving beam,
machine
to the loom.
To this
some
from
in~
what
saw of the
am
goods,
upon
principles
of
economy superior
if
to
the
shall
shortly state
my
no opportunity of
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
yet in existence.
The
first
defect
which appears
in the
process,
is
Every weaver
a
knows
painful and
uncommon
degree.
It is
has dressed,
when
the body
is
in
employed
to support this.
But
in
in this
than he
may be made for the effects of habit, in accustoming the human body to support exertions, which, when first tried, prove uncommonly fatiguing, I am
"Whatever allowance
inclined to doubt,
man
to
work
number
this, so
productive.
Besides
much
is
is
it
to be
little
by the
power, that
of labour
created,
can be expected.
toil
By moving
will be
after-
in motion,
and
the
first
of these
may engage
in
the
combing
man may
270
exhaustion,
ESSAY
VI.
The
is
when yarn
well
spun, which
cotton,
is
requires
now generally the case, especially in much less time and labour than the
be
sufficiently
much
To
a plan of
wound upon the receiving beam. this kind, it may be objected, that
is
the
Weavers
find
it
necessary
warp nearest
to the yarn
beam
until they
The
reason of this
as
follows.
upon
it
situation,
when
these
Therefore,
is
when
the whole
brushed
at once,
drawn by
or yarn beam.
guch a degree, that they mat the yarn together, and form
very serious obstructions to the operations of weaving,
is
beam adhere
Of
consequence,
any, impediment.
That
it
would be of advantage
by machinery, seems
and almost
to imitate this
motion
in brushing,
But the
great,
may be communicate^
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
by machinery,
in the
271
sufficient
arise here.
if
which
arises
would be considerably
lessened.
In the
first
warp would
from the
would be removed;
This would also
for
this process.
wet
state,
modes.
the brushing,
web was
sufficiently dried,
wound upon
the
which
is
and
if
speedily
wound up when
proper
state,
might
yarn
last
to the action
of the
Lastly, were
it
motion,
am
that person
been
I
tried.
me upon
272
ESSAY
VI.
who
this
improvement of
As
employed
this
in con-
description,
in practice,
may have
escaped
my
notice.
In
all
likely
carefully in-
Even when
this has
now come
lately
which have
been
Many
made
ex-
for a
number of
years past,
The
first
manufactory of
that
was,
believe,
Printfield,
Dumbartonshire, which
for
prosecuted.
These looms,
their
which
a patent
the
name
believe to be
is
the crank
loom.
The
been
by Mr. Robert
granted,
is
which
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
In these looms, different
278
The
is
it
improvements
still
many much
and
my
observations and
moving
the
With
cloth,
rotatory on the
reciprocating.
The
at
of a crank
on
its
own
axis, is
one time,
and retarded
another.
By means
of
may be made
uniform, accelerated,
the effect
produce.
In
many machines,
wiper a very
of considerable service.
as the
loom
is
Mm
274
given
a
profile
ESSAY
am
VI,
it*
froi
WIPER LOOM.
Fig.
1. is
a representation of the
way
of moving the
This
a profile
elevated
section of
the heddles L,
much
in the
same way as
common
loom.
common
loom.
The
motion
is
upon which
shaft,
number of
wipers.
section of this
alternately,
represented at S.
for
any range of
Describe a circle of
wood, or other
substance,
which is
to
Having considered
to the
to
communicate
circle,
draw
a diameter line
through the
and upon
At
second
with the
number of equal
setting
From
a
the
draw
wiper will
be ready for
is
off.
If
uniform
reciprocating motion
tion of the wiper,
it is
many equal
three
number of
radius line,
radii.
on the
first
on
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the third, the
off;
275
when
and so on,
until the
whole are
set off,
or returning side.
traverse.
to
common
heart
show
each of
these
two wipers
each
may
operate alternately on
respective treddle,
when both
the shaft.
As
it is
passing through,
all
the range
must be
centre,
set off
arrives at the
circular to
suspend the
This
is
two wipers
Fig.
2.
at S.
is
profile
elevation
of the
apparatus for
its
moving the
lay.
above, as in the
centres
pulled back
in the figure.
is
After
pulled
pully,
as
represented.
These wipers
are
also
Constructed on semi-circles,
may
operate
Both
treddle, as they
There
an apparatus of
this
The wipers
for this
motion are
In
shaft
There
are different
wavs
276
ESSAY
VI.
as
represented by T, Fig. 3.
This
lever,
being
placed
centre,
the cross
tails
U,
in Fig. 7. and,
by
In
moving the
web.
moved
by wipers on the
shaft,
same
effect.
up
the cloth, of
will be taken
when
mean
vertical loom.
In the
CRANK LOOM.
In
is
this
loom no treddles
directly
communicated
by the cranks.
Fig. 4.
is
The
where
represented in a
transverse direction.
Fig. 6.
is
and
Fig. 7.
is
a transverse
view of the
cranks.
shaft,
to
It will
be obvious, that in
loom two
hori-
effected
lay
two.
These
and
on the same
level, the
As
it is
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the heddle shaft revolves once, the latter takes
its
277
motion
as repre-
a spur
The
number of
fixed
on the heddle
pully,
on the lay
shaft.
The
is
which
lay
also
on the
The swords
in
The
shuttle
motion
effected
by
either of the
to the
described.
We
now come
the
VERTICAL LOOM.
Fig. 14.
is
a profile elevation of
a transverse
elevation of one
The remaining
figures
on the
parts.
'
plate,
9 to IS inclurecipro-
working
The whole
shafts.
by
upon two
is
a balance
is
shaft,
one side
of which
so
much
terpoise the
The swords
steady.
is
and which
also
on the lay
shaft.
is
loom.
&*!
78
ESSAY
is
VI.
shaft, receiving
D
from
motion
lay-
number
of teeth on the
shaft, as in the
crank loom.
E
tally,
is
is
the cloth
beam
when woven.
H
I
the wheels
is
wound
up.
is
machine
K
the
is
a
if
catch,
will be instantly
stopped,
All
which
will be
more
The
figures.
will appear
more
plainly,
At L
by
To
one of these
lever
belts
is
M, moving
is
freely
on
its
centre,
of which
this
The
in
shape of
Fig.
10.
is
shaft
stud P,
operating like
Fig. 11.
is
motion
to the shuttle.
a profile elevation of
is
communitwo
is
a sliding bar
which moves
freely in
Upon
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
slider,
is
279
a rack
which moves
a pinion
which
are attached
two
leather thongs,
The
stud P, the
like
round
in a
hollow
elliptical piece,
it
slider, alternately
moves
rapidly
left alternately,
is
Fig.
cloth.
13,
On
beam
is
fixed a wheel, on
the outside of
axis.
which
is
upon the
is
represented,
moved by
nected with a lever; the other end of this lever nected with the
stiffened
at
con-
lay.
pleasure.
rises,
the
down,
to
move
the ratchet
is
made
sufficiently slack, to
moving the
by the
Conseis
upon the
of the cloth.
quently,
if
produced.
This
is
to go a shot or
wound
fixed
a
up,
it
must
Upon
the
ratchet
is
which moves
upon
a stud.
to
the
beams.
The
relative
280
ESSAY
VI.
on so
all
as to
be easily altered
at pleasure^
In
the
different
it
experiments
upon weaving by
when lodged
from
recoiling.
box by
a slight spring,
which
when
It
is
entering, and by
also
friction, prevents
material to
much damage
are
lay,
be
is
taken
from
these
springs,
which
connected
by
bended
levers,
so that either
will operate.
I,
is
strongly
force
is
out
the
lifted.
To
the
K, moving on a
is
joint
is
attached.
When
spring
this
is
thrown forward,
slide,
but
if
one
will
spring
not pressed,
K not being
thrown forward,
strike the
The
exactly
principle,
little
differently
When
beam
is
is
to
is
re-
beam
small addiroller.
and on
a level
with the
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
so that the part to
as in a
281
be dressed
is
in a horizontal position,
is
common
loom.
generally
is
occasionally set in
motion
Two
pair
upon
of opinion
still
prevails.
The wipers
are,
much
greater degree
sufficiently cor-
The mode
is
weight,
inconvenience.
The
when
the shed closes in this state, the threads are apt to obstruct
loom, to obviate
this disadvantage,
which
This
is
merely a
flat
is
parallel to the
By means
of
two
lay,
bended
this
levers,
when
is
recedes from
when
the shed
opened.
Thus
the
Warp
might
is
The same
contrivance
easily
The
vertical
loom
some
occupies a
much
Nn
282
and
ESSAY
VI.
2dly,
pirn
From may be
a larger
without
any
of injuring the
warp by
Sdly,
in
friction.
When
it is
power weaving,
it
is
loom,
The
same
situation as
when
fore, see in a
when
dressing, behind,
where
it
is
may happen
loom
beyond a proper
rate of velocity.
Practical experience
am
fully convinced,
it
must be
has been
common
to drive
power looms
at the- rate
of
beyond
producing the
proved
in
effect expected.
sufficiently
In
still
more
The
indeed,
may be
is
thrown out of
ECONOMY OF WEAVING.
the box, or
288
much
at
broken.
Suppose, as in Essay
1st, a
yard in 30 minutes, or
if
yards
per day of 12
place.
I
working hours,
by
power looms.
loom,
if
The
average
quantity on
is
the
vertical
about
5 yards, so that,
the
loom works
at the velocity
must be
lost
by stopping.
much weft
as I
Upon
maximum of
terials;
velocity, at
which
it
is
prudent to drive a
maand
weave
finer
must be con^
siderably diminished.
The
last
plans of
economy
in
weaving, which
it
will
be necessary to discuss, are those which relate to the insertion of the weft.
The
upon the
tedious,
pirn,
Two
means of
first
The
of
itself in
saved.
As
ordinary shuttle,
has been
This
is
effected
284
a lever or screw.
ESSAY
VI.
The cop, being between the cones, is thus compressed to a much smaller space than it originally The compression is most effectual when the occupied.
cop has been boiled, but
weft
is
this
when
the
to
be inserted
also
in a
wet
Machines have
a
been
winding
number
The
is
principle is
for
entirely the
winding
shape
the
warp bobbins.
The
only difference
in the
flat
or barrel
Those which
I
hand, which
cannot think
which
I stated before;
namely, that in
these machines,
the person
who
and should be
machine to another,
broken threads.
I
to
much
importance, in point
of economy-
SSAY
ON THE
VII.
MANUFACTURING OF CLOTH.
TJ AVING
.
J- *
processes and
the Art of
Weaving,
tradesman.
The
mo=
manu-
facturers,
more
of the profession.
business
is
Any
would render
rather an Essay
upon com-
Much
who
superintends
preceding Essays ^ for a thorough knowledge of the operative part of the business is essentially necessary, to enable
him
to-
There
two points
to
be investigated.
286
The
first,
is
ESSAY
VII.
fabric required
the salesman.
manu-
facturer
warp which he
This
is
called
CAAMING, OR SLEYINGf.
Little
down
are
For
this reason,
caaming almost
who
upon
this
subject.
That
this is a great
desideratum in
may be reduced
to doubt.
seems
no room
The
its
contained
and
entitled,
"
An
Tables, by a Manufacturer."
An uncommon
has
mathematical knowledge
It
now become
a gentleman of
shall
MANUFACTURING.
the principles
287
upon which
In the
first
would be
as the
He
more twisting
in the
com-
and
diameter of a fine
weight.
He
is
produced,
one thread to
the
same thing,
as the
square multiplied
into
the
diameter.
The
words.
little
tract,
will serve to
"
<{
*c
IS
'A
for disposing
P and insertion of the weft) all the cloths, produced from " those different warps, shall be exactly similar in fabric
ic
or compacture."
c
288
<
ESSAY
The number
which
VII.
1.
<
2.
3.
The fineness of the warp-yarn of said The fineness of the warp, the reed
the
And,
is
for
which
sought.
By
number of
the reed
is
of
splits,
contained
in a given
number of
may
in fact have
been
is
an inch.
The comparative fineness of any two parcels of yarn may be ascertained by the number of threads, of a determinate length, contained in a given weight of the one,
in the spinning.
For,
if
two par-
and altitudes
is
one thread
diminished,
e.
as
it
becomes
i.
finer
it
e.
will
become longer
if
wound up
will be a greater
in the
in proportion as the
one
of the
threads..
MANUFACTURING.
*
289
Thus,
be
a,
if
the
number of convolutions
in the finer
<
be
a ; or,
~ f
:
number of convo-
lutions,
in a given weight,
*
<
*
number
in the
same weight.
little.
How
i
this
comes about
falls to
be explained a
that, in
making yarns,
for
*
* * *
like purposes,
The
reason
this: all
yarns
to
*
g
purposes in manufacture,
how
may be with
i *
which compose
their surfaces,
ought
as the
be twisted to the
Now,
*
6
same materials;
if
both
may become
equally
*
*
*
But
than the periphery of the base of the coarser; the superficial fibres of the finer will
*
*
be less stretched by a
the superficial
given
*
*
number
290
4
ESSAY
VII,
rations
less
number of
cir-
than what
is
num=
In other words,
by
a less force
than
what
is
For
in order to give
them ought
to be in the
same
ratio.
Now,
its
as the
tw
the finer
periphery,
and therefore
its
superficial
Thus
the
two threads
bases;
be
But
their bases
compression,-^
forces
:;
and the
:
V % Vj
-:
and
the
Vf
V\*
MANUFACTURING.
4
291
less
than what
is
applied
to the surface
4
4
of the threads,
their bases,
i.
e.
of
and,
consequently, in the
of their
diameters; the masses of the threads diminish and increase in the ratio of their bases,
i.
e.
*
4
applied to
what
is
* 4
4
it
acts,
than the
which
acts
to the
mass of
sub-
*
* 4 4
the coarser.
The
being
which
be more
strongly compressed
less
'
e.
finer,
by how much
its
mass
is is
more
em-?
ployed against
4
it.
It
two things
are to be regarded
4
4
in the spin-
As
two threads
will, there-
be to each other
of these two,
apart,
in a ratio
compounded of the
bases
Thus
fr\
their
being,
forces
equal or
Vf
:
Vf;
the
^Vf
f;Vf*
292
4
ESSAY
VII.
to be dis-
cussed
a given
simply
this:
If yarn, the
number of which
its
in
weight
is a,
and, consequently,
fineness Vf,
reed,,
a given
dimension
is r;
in
to
be
same
is
b->
fabric,
the
number of
and
its
fineness
fVf*
by one
let
it is
which
sleyed
*
4
f*/f,
is
to be sleyed in
let it
commensurate to
is
by
its
neighbouring
splits,
cylindrical form,
Now,
one
as circles are
vice-
circle will
be
one
circle
is
to the other.
are,
But the
two threads
is
or f %
-jjy'jj
therefore, the
*
c
'
Here
it is
is
splits, in
the
one reed,
the
*
number of
number
The
strictest
regard
due to
this proportion in
making reeds
for the
same
be devised, will, in
many
MANUFACTURING.
293
it
reed sought,
ternate
^^f
a
j,\/*
Or, to express
in the al-
way,
'
'
'
Each
And
if it
commensurate
three, four, or
And
if
an interval of
r,
given
number of
number
sleyed into
one interval
is
same
ratio:
empty space
it.
in the interval c
is
to
what
c
is
contained in
if
In like manner,
c a greater
number
of threads f \/
is
number of
of x\
the
interval
to the other:
and the
same
ratio:
be
c,
is
294
ESSAY
if
VII.
Hence,
<
1
the former be low-sleyed, or thin-set; so will the latuniversally, whatever the fabric of the cloth
ter: and,
<
made from
upon the
the one
be*,
is,
sleying of
warp.
obtains here, in
Scotis
f
*
land, of coming
weight; but by
what amounts
to the
same thing
the
For instance
the highest
denom-
common
it
5760
Now,
if
a spyndle
weighs
a pound*,
to say that
does
same
5760
threads in a pound.
Again,
same thing.
And, no doubt,
is
much
easier in as-
weigh
it
by
the
half, or
different
according
first to
to
their
respective
weights
into
c
than
would be,
sit
its
full tale:
and, indeed,
partly
is little
owing
MANUFACTURING.
295
threads
number of
method
pound.
But then,
this easier
varies the
|f
<
terms themselves, in
of yarns ; and,
jf
f.
same
number of
of the one,
to the
number of threads
same weight,
<
*
*
from
weight of
a given
to the
This
is
jf
now
given: there
it is
f
<
number of
f
4
And,
bases; so,
be in
Now,
as the
two spyndles
masses will be
their
as their weights:
same length,
i.
e.
in
the
same length,
is
as the
Thus,
if
the
pound
is
the
number of which
two
pound
is
b;
the compara-
is
296
t e
ESSAY
is
VII.
to the finer,
d\/d
e/e\ or,
f\/f
f\/fthe
same
whether
when
At
the time
this extract
was written,
all
the yarn or
distaff,
com-
mon
spinning wheel.
For
this reason,
the
ingenious
now
exist,
The
is
its
operation,
is
well cal-
spun
at
which
every
in
number
by compressing the
stuff
more,
al-
lowed
to be
mathematical,
perfectly conclusive.
to
When
The
is,
MANUFACTURING.
that of a spiral or screw;
terials
297
when
before.
drawn out
stuff
is
is
great,
more
perceptible.
From
inference seems to be, that the increase of twine diminishes the length, not the diameter of the thread.
No
the
allowance whatever
is
made
for the
shrinking
in
is
sup-
posed to
case.
which
is
But
it
may be
supposed,
and
and
it
whether
what
ratio these
To
now
made
him
different inquiries,
I shall
calculations,
whether
is satis-
the conclusion
factory or not.
which
It is perfectly impossible,
to
may
the
easily
be measured; and as
it
seemed probable
that
same
first
ratio
might
my
inquiries
were directed
to this
branch of spin-
ning.
^98
when
screw.
twisted,
I,
is
ESSAY
VII.
common
Most
marked
compare the
effect.
spiral is
it
is
upon
a piece of
is
to
be cut.
This piece of
paper
is
when
the
spiral lines.
Upon
mav be
and the
spiral
described by the
Now
as the
become more
acute.
is,
The
laid
that a shroud
Let us,
when
three inches,
When
be three inches.
Now, by
a very
spiral, will
be
33 42
will be
infer,
common
From
run of ropes,
this
case.
we may
that the,
MANUFACTURING.
no diminution.
299
seemed expedient
to inquire
what
ratio the
and how
from that
Upon
found
twine required
for different
numbers was
numbers.
One
me by Mr.
Dunlop of Barrowfield
The number
given, say No.
70 =24.
To
will be
V70
The number
24
V60
22.2
numbers of yarn,
No. 50
60
70
20.2 22.2
24.
80
25.6 27.2
90
100
28.6
From
is
the above,
it
exactly the
same
as the
Author assumed
that of dimin^
which
is,
number.
is
passed through
it
number of
When
300
the twine
ESSAY
VII.
could be
along them.
When
indeed, from the oblique form which the strands had as-
sumed,
fore-,
it
was more
this
difficult
but
appeared to
rise
more from
friction,
than
From
these different
trials,
it
seems to
which
it is
composed changing
their direc-
from
all
Were
yield
would
diameter
the stuff,
compression, must
swell in thickness.
a quantity of twine as
would
yarn,
effect
would be extremely
spun,
that,
may be
The
This
is,
numbers
wrought
are as the
produce similar
is
fabrics.
For
No* 40
of cotton yarn
in a
1200
MANUFACTURING.
reed,
in
301
and
it is
necessary to
work
V40
16
V71.1
re-
The
fraction
mon
same
arithmetic,
effect will
tedious,
The
12
2 12 or 12
=256, therefore,
40
256
71.1
The
quoted,
difference
is,
between
is
this plan
that this
No
per-
way
If
it
we
suppose
in a coarse
fabric,
web, we
a similar fabric.
To
a certain degree,
when we
of the fine
web should be
in
placed as
much
in
contact as
diminished
diameters.
ness,
the
arithmetical
I
ratio of the
respective
thickis
In this case,
the sense in
the distance
jcloth.
which
it
is
Upon
by
far too
little
attention has
302
been paid to reduce
ESSAY
VII.
certainly proper
this every
some
from
manu-
facturer
may
We
this
is
it
come now
will not
be necessary to go
much
This
-&
manufacturer.
upon
it.
may
be useful, which
such remarks as
The
circumference of the
at
90 inches, or 2| yardsa
and the quantities of
Once round
thread
120
= threads =
cut
2 cuts
3 heers
=1
heer
slip
= = =
==
OL yards
41-2.
300
do. do.
do.
600
1800
slips
2 hanks
2 hesps
In
=1 =1 =1
hank
hesp
= =
3600
do.
do.
7200
spyndle= 14400
do.
general, however,
made by
spyndles, heers, cuts, and threads, the intermediate divisions being omitted.
stated, is rated
The
MANUFACTURING.
There
are
303
warp of webs
in porells.
two ways of
calculating the
necessary.
1st,
ters, to find
For
this, the
common
practical rule
is,
multiply the
number
is
the answer.
One example
will be sufficient.
to
warp
web
72 porters broad.
in ells.
288X34 = 10192
Thus
This rule
iind
it
and 10192
is
*r
72
= 141^
ells,
the answer
is
141
ells
and 20 inches.
chiefly useful to
customer weavers,
who
to the quantity of
receive.
in porters, to
and breadth
warp
is
required.
exactly the converse of the former; namely,
This rule
multiply the
ells
by the
porters,
Given 100
ells
56 porters wide.
100x56=5600
and 5600
-r
288= 19444,
1
or
cut.
This
is
chiefly
make
their
webs
The following Table is calculated upon these principles, and may be useful to save calculation in common practice.
On
first
The remaining
304
ESSAY
VII.
columns, contain the quantity required for each of the respective lengths at the top.
as the limits of the
It is
made
as
comprehensive
work
will admit.
number
required.
For instance,
if
Y5
ells
are re-
quired, take 50, and the half of 50; or take 50, 10 twice,
and
5,
and so of others.
It
may,
in
some
cases,
be
shorter, to subtract
ells;
Suppose 95
is
to
be rereel*
any allow-
But
be expected,
it
is
customary to allow
allowance
is
little.
TABLE OF WARPS.
306
ESSAY
VII.
TABLE OF
C/3
1
ELLS.
<D
S-i
].
2
c.
1 1 1 1
1 1
3
C.
4
C.
1 1
s.
H.
1
T.
s.
H.
3
T.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H. C. T.
18
19
1
1 1
20
40 60
80
100
3 3
3
1
40 80
4
5 5
60
6
6
1
80
20
21
40
60
1
1
7 7
22
23
1
1
3 3
1
1
40
80
5
5
80
1
60
40
24
25
2
2
20
40 60
80
100
1
1 1
40
80
1 1
6
6 6
1 1
60
8 8
1
80
26
27
2
2
4
4 4 4
5
40
60
28
29
2
2 2
40
80
80
1
7 7
1 1
60
40
30
31
10
2
2 2
20
40
40
80
1
1
7
8
60
10
10
1
80
32
33
5 5 5
5
40
1
1 1
60
80
100
60 o 11
1 1
34 35
2 2
3 3 3
40
80
8
8
11
80
1
60
11
40
36
37
12
20 40 60
80
100
40
80
1
1
9
9
1 1
60
12 12
1
80
38 39
6
6 6
40
3
3
60
13 13
40
41
40
80
10
80
1
10
60
13
40
MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.
5
S.
307
5_,
o>
in
10
C.
1
1
50
100
H.
T.
C
1
s.
H.
C.
T
8C
S.
H.
C.
T
C
S.
H.
C.
T.
18
15 15
1
C>
>
3 7
11
19
7
8
8
IOC
3
3 3
4C
80
1
1 1
6 14 6 22
7
1
80
20
21
80
1
16
17 18
19
1 1
4C
C
>
40
60
>
15
22
23
9
9
1
40 20
80
3 19
40 7 15
80 7 23
8
8
1
80
40 3 23
4
1 1 1
40
24 25 26
10
10 10
11
1
20
100
4
8
20
21
80 4
40 8 16
80 9
1
1 1
80 40
80
40 4 12
4 16
27
28
60
1
22
23
1 1
1
11
40 20
80 4 20
40 9 17
80 10
1
1
80
29
30
31
12
40 5
5
1
40
80
12
12
13 13
1 1
5 9
10 10
100
80 5
40 10 18
80 11
1
32 33
80
1
1 1
2
3
1
1
40 5 13
5 17
2
11
40
60
11
34 35 36
37
14
14 15 15 15 16
1
40
1
1
1
4
5
80 5 21
1 1
4011 19
80 12
3
1
80
20
40 6
6
1
1
40
6
6 7
8
12 12
100
80 6 10
40 12 20 80 13
1 1 1
80
1
38 39
80
1
1
40 6 14
6 18
4
13
40
60
1
13
40
41
16
17
40 20
1 1
80 6 22
40
13 21
80
1
10
40 7
80 14
40
308
ESSAY
VII.
TABLE OF
Ui
S-i
ELLS.
3
<u
O
P*
s.
H.
C.
1 1 1 1 1 1
T.
s.
H.
C.
T.
s.
H.
C.
1
1
T.
s.
H.
C.
T.
42 43 44
3 3 3 3
3 3
10
14
20 40 60
80
7
7 7 7 7 8
1
1
40
80
10
11
11
60
14
14
1
80
40
45
46 47
4'8
60
1
15 15
40 80
11
80
1
100
11
60
15
16
40
80
4 4 4
4 4
12
49
50
51
20
40 60
80
100
1 1
8
8 8
40
80
12
60
1
'1
16
16
1
12
12 13 13
40
10
1
1
60
17 17
52
53
8
8
40
80
80
1
4 4 4
4 4
60
1
17
18
40
54
13
55
56
20
9
9
40
80
1
1
13
60
18 18
1
80
1
1
40
60
80
100
14
40
57
14
60
1
1
19
58
59
4
4
5 5
5
40 80
14 14 15
19
80
1
9
10
60
19
40
60
61
20
60
1
20
10 10
10
1 1
40
80
15
15
20
20
1
80
62
63
40
60 80
100
40
0'
15
60
21
21
64
5
5
10
10
40
80
16 16
80
1
65
60
21
40
MANUFACTURING.
WARPS,
CO
3~
1
309
ELLS.
5
s.
<u
5-i
10
c.
1
50
T.
s.
100
T.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H.
11
C.
H.
7
c.
H. C. T.
42 43
17 17
0.
0.
7
1
1
14 14
100
1
1
11
80 7 11
40 14 22
80 15
1
80
1
44
18
18
1
80
12
13
40 7 15
7 19
40
45 46
47
60 40
15 15
o 19
19
1
1 1
1
14 15
80 7 23
1
1
40 15 23
80 16
7
1
80
20
40 8
8
1 1 1
3 8
40
48
49
20 20 20
21 21
1
16 16
17
16 16
100
1
1 1
80 8 12
40 17
80 17
1 1
80
8
1
50
51
80
40 8 16
'8
40
60
1
1
18
20
17 17
52
53
40
20
19
80 9
40 18
80 18
80
1
22
22
1
20
21
40 9
9
1
4
9
40
54
55 56 57 58
1
18 18
22 23
23
100
21
80 9 13
40 19
2
1
80
80
1
22
23
40 9 17
9 21
1
80 19 10
19
40
60
19
3
1
40 2
1
1 1
80 10
1
1 1
t)
40 20
80
59
1 1 1
1
20 2
2
40 10
80 20 11
40
60
61
2 2
3
1
1
10 10
20 20
40 21
80 21
4
12
1
100 2
1
80 10 14
80
62 63
80 2
40 10 18
10 22
1 1
1
40
80
1 1 1
2 2
3
1
60 2
40 2
4
5
21
21
5
1
64
65
80 11
2
6
40 22
20 2
40 .11
80 22 13
40
310
ESSAY
VII.
TABLE OF
to
ELLS.
-
O
H.
2
C.
1 1
3
C.
4
C.
1
1
s.
T.
s.
H.
11
T.
s.
H.
T.
S.
H.
C.
T.
66
67 68
5
5
16
22 60 22
22 60 23
23
1
20 40 60
80
100
11
11
40
80
1
16
80
5
5
5
17
17
40
80
69
1 1
1
11
11 11
70
71
1 1
40
80
17
1 1
17 18
60
23
40
80
72
73
6 6
12
10
60
1
1 1 1 1
20
12
40
80
1 1
18
74
75 76
6
6 6
40
60
80
100
1
1
12
12
18 18
40
60
110
1
12 12
13
40
80
19 19 19
1 1
1 1
1
80
77
78
6 6 6 6
60
40
12
60
1 1
79
20
40 60
80
100
13 13 13
1 1 1
40
80
19
2 2
1
80
80
81
20
40
6
6 6
7 7
7
1 1 1
20
40
80
60
1
13
1
82 83
13 13 14
20 20
21
80
1
60
40
84
85
14
60
1
20 40
60 80
0.
14
40
80
1
1
21
21
1
1
4
4
1
80
86
87
14
14
40
21
60
15
1
88 89
7
7
14
14
40
80
22 22
80
1
100
60
40
MANUFACTURING,
311
WARPS,
o5
<D
ELLS.
U o
5
s.
10
c. 1
1
50
s.
100
T.
s.
H.
3 3
T.
s.
H. c. T. 7
H.
11
c.
H.
C.
T.
66
61
1 1 1
1
11
1 1 1
22 22 40 23
6
1
100 2
80 2
7
8
80 11 15
80
68 69 70
71
40 11 19
11
80 23 14
1
1
40
4
5
5
60 2
23
3 7
23 23
1 1
40 2 10
1
80 12
40 24
7
1
80
20 2 11
2 12
40 12
80 24 15
40
72
73
1
1 1
6 6 6 7
7
8 8 8
1 1
12 12
1 1 1
25
100 2 12
1
80 12 16
40 25
8
1
80
40
74
75
80 2 13 60 2 14
40 12 20
13
1
80 25 16 26
1
1
1
1
76
77 78
40 2 15
80 13
4
8
1 1
40 26
9
1
80
20 2 16
2 17
40 13
80 26 17
40
1 1
13 13
1
1
27
79 80
81
100 2 17
80 13 17
40 27 10
80 27 18
1
1
1
80
1 1
1
80 2 18
1
40 13 21
14
1
40
9 10 10
11
11
11
60 2 19
28
82
83
40 2 20
1
80 14
40 28 11 80 28 19 29
4
1
80
1
1
20 2 21
2 22
40 14
40
84
85
14 14
1
1
100 2 22
1
80 14 18
40 29 12
80 29 20
1
1 1
80
1
86
81 88
1
1
1
80 2 23 60 3
40 14 22
15
40
12
1
1
2
6
30
12
13
40 3 20
80 15
40 30 13
80 30 21
1
80
89
40 15 10
40
312
ESSAY
VII.
TABLE OF
5
-
ELLS.
1
&
%-
o
H. 7
2
C.
1 1 1
3
c.
4
C.
1 1
s.
T.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H. C. T.
90
91
15
22
40 80
1
60
6
7
7
7
20
15 15 15
22
23
23
60
1 1
80
1
92
93 94 95 96
97
40
60
80
100
6 7
7
7 8 8 8
40
80
1
1 1
60
1
1 1
7 7
8 8
15
15
1
1
40
80
1
23 23
60
1 1
40
80
16
20
40
60 80
100
1 1
16
40
80
1
1 1
1 1
60
1
1
98
99
100
101
8 8
16
16
40
1 1
1
60
1
1
8
8
8 8
16
1
1
40
80
1
1 1
9 9
1
80
16
17
60
1
1 1
40
80
102
103
1 1
10
20
17 17
17
1
1 1
40
80
1 1
1
60
1
1
10 10
11 11 11
1 1
104
105 106 107
108 109
8 l 8 8 8
1
1
40
60
80
100
2 2 2
2
3 3 3
3
1
40
60
1 1
17
17 18
40
80
1
1 1
80
60
1 1
40
80
9 9
12 12
12
13
1
20
18 18 18
1
40
80
60
1
1
110
111
9
9
40
60
80
1 1
10
1
40
60
1 1
112
113
9 9
18
18
1
1
40
80
1
1
4 4
13
80
1
100
60
13
40
MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.
318
5
S.
10
c.
1 1
50
s.
100
T.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H. C. T.
3 3
1 1 1
Hi
c.
H.
C.
T.
90
91
13
15 15
31
1
1
1
13
100 3
80 15 19
40 31 14
80 31 22
1
1 1
80
92
93
14 14
15
1
80 3
4
5
40 15 23
16
3
7
40
60 3 40 3
32
94 95
1 1 1
6
7 8
8
1 1
80 16
40 32 15
80 32 23
33
8
1
80
15 16
20 3
3
40 16 11
16 16
40
96
97
1
1
16
16
1
100 3
80 16 20
40 33 16
80 34
1
80
98
99
100
80 3
40 17
17
40
1 1
1
17 17
1
60 3 10
4
8
34
40 3 11 20 3 12
80 17
1
1
40 34 17
80 35
1
80
1
101
18 18
18 19
1
1
40 17 12
17 17
1
40
102
103
3 13
35 10
1
1
100 3 13
80 17 21
40 35 18
80 36
1
1 1
80
1
104
105 106 107
108
80 3 14
1
1
1
40 18
18
40
1 1
19
60 3 15 40 3 16
36 11
20
20
21 21 21
1
1
80 18
40 36 19
80 37
3
1
80
1
1
20 3 17
3 18
40 18 13
18 18
1
40
80
37 12
109
1 1
100 3 18
80 18 22
40 37 20
80 38
1
1
110
111
80 3 19
1
1
40 19
19
2
6
40
1
1 1
22
60 3 20
1
38 13
112
113
22
23
4:
3 21
80 19 10
40 38 21
80 39
5
80
20 3 22
40 19 14
40
Rr
814
ESSAY
VII.
TABLE OF
CO
4-1
J-l
ELLS.
1
O
S.
2
C.
3
C.
4
C.
H.
T.
S.
H.
T.
S.
H.
T.
S.
H.
C.
T.
1
1
19
14 10
40
80
1
1 1
14
9
9 9 9 9
20 40
60 80
100
19 19 19
19
60
14
14
15
1
80
1
1
1
15
1
40
60
118
1 1
40
80
1510
1
1
1 1
15
15 16 16
1
80
119
19
60
40
120
121
10
20
20 40
60 80
100
1
1 1
1
16
40
80
1 1
1
10 10
20
1 1
1
60
1
1
1 1
80
1
122 123
124?
20 20 20 20
21
6
6
16
17
17
40
80
10 10
10
60
1 1
40
80
17
1
60
1
1
1
17 18
40
10
17 10
40
80
1
1 1
1
10
10 10 10
10
11 11 11
20
40
21
21
60
18
18
1
80
18
1
40
129
60
80
100
21
21
60
1 1
19
130
131
1
1
40
80
18 10
1
19
19
1
80
21
60
1
1
40
132 133
22
20 40
60
80
19
40
80
1 1 1
20 20 80
1
22 22
22
9
1
60
C
>
1 1
134
135 136
137
19
20
21 21
40
11 11 11
1
1 1
9 10
10
6C
1
1
22
1
4C
8C
c>
80
1
IOC
22
6C
21
40
MANUFACTURING.
WARPS.
ELLS.
5
315
}_4
O)
1-J
10
C.
1 1
50
s.
100
T.
s.
s.
H.
T.
s.
H. c. T.
H.
C.
H.
C.
T.
114
115
116
117
1
1
23 23
3 23
19 19
1 1
39 14
100 3 23 80 4
80 19 23
40 39 22
1
1
80
1
2 2 2 2 2 2
1 1
40 20
3
7
80 40
40
60 4 40 4
20
40 15 40 40 23 80 41
41
7
1
118
119
2
3
80 20 11
1
1
80
20 4
4
40 20 15 20 20
1
1 1
40
120
121
16
2
2
3 3
1 1
100 4
8.0
4
5
80 21
40 42
4
8
1
80
8
1
122
2
2 2 2
40 21
21
80 42
40
123
60 4
40 4 20 4
1
6
7
8
42 17
124
125
80 21 12
1
1
40 43
80 43
80
1
4 4 4
5
5
1
40 21 16
21 21
1
1 1
40
126
2 2
2
9 9
43 18
127
128
100 4
80 22
40 44
2
1
80
80 4 10
40 22
22
80 44 10
1
1
40
129
2 2
2 2
60 4 11
44 19
130
131
6 6
7
1
40 4 12
20 4 13
4 14
80 22 13
40 45
3
1
80
40 22 17 22 22
1
1
80 45 11 45 20
40
132
133 134
2
2
7
7
8
1
100 4 14
80 23
2 6
1
1
1
40 46
4
1
80
80 4 15
40 23
80 46 12
40
80
135
136
137
2
2
60 4 16
1
23 10
80 23 14
46 21
40 4 17
40 47
5
1
20 4 18
40 23 18
80 47 13
40
316
ESSx^Y VII,
TABLE OF
to
U o
ELLS,
1
2
s.
3
C.
4
s. 1
s.
H. C. T.
11
1 1
H.
T.
s.
H. C. T.
H.
C.
T.
138
23
10 10
11
22 22 22
23
1
139 140
141
11
20
40
23 23 23
1
1 1
40
80
1
1
60
1
1
80
11
11 11
11
1 1
1
40
Q
60
80
100
1
11
11
11
1
1
60
1 1
142
143
23
23
40
80
1
1 1
23
23
1
80
60
40
144
145 146
147
12
12 12 12
12 12 12
12
13
1
1
20 40 60
80
100
1 1
1 1
1
1
40
1
1 1
60 2
2
0*0 80
1 1
1 1 1
80
1
1 1
40
80
1 1
60 2
2
148 149
12
40
80
12
12
12
1
1
13 13
13
1
1
60 $
2
40
150
151
1
1 1
1 1 1 1
20
40
80
60 2
2
2
2
3
3
1
80
15% 153
o 12
12 12
40
60
80
100
1 1 1
1
1
1
14 Q
40
14 14
1
60 2
2
154
155
1
1
1 1
40
80
1
1
1
80
1
12
13 13 13
14
15
60 %
2
40
156
157
2 2
2
4 4
4
5
1
20 40
60
80
40
80
1
1
15
15
1 1
60 2
2
80 40
158
159
1 1 1 1
1 1
13
13
2
2 2
15
16 16
60 2
2
160
40
80
1
1
5 5
1
80
\m
13 o Too
60 2
40
MANUFACTURING,
WARPS.
C/5
317
ELLS.
.......
K o
(
10
50
T.
s.
100
T.
s.
So
jj.
C
1
1
T.
s.
H.
C.
H.
c.
H.
C.
T.
138
139
9 9
4 19
23 23
1
47 22
100 4 19
80 24
40 48
6
1
80
140
2 10 2 10 2 11
2 11 2 12
1
1
80 4 20 60 4 21
1 1
40 24
7
1 1
1
80 48 14 48 23
40
HI
242
143
24 11
80 24 15
40 4 22 20 4 23
5
40 49
7
1
80
40 24 19
25
1
80 49 15
50
40
144
145
2 12 2 12 2 13
2 13 2 14 2 14 2 14
1
1
100 D
1
80 25
4
8
1
1
1
40 50
8
1
80
146
147
80 O
40 25
80 50 16
51
1
40
60 5
1
2
3
25 12 80 25 16
148
40 5 20 5
5
40 51
9
1
80
149
4
5
40 25 20 26
1 1
80 51 17
40
150
151
52
2 80
1
100 5
5 6 7
8
80 26
40 52 10
80 52 18
1
152
2 15 2 15 2 16
2 16
1
80 5
1
40 26
40
153
60 5
40 5 20 5
26 13
80 26 17
53
154
}55 156
157
1
1
40 53 11
80 53 19
54
4
1
80
40 26 21 27
1
40
2 17
5 10
2
6
2 17
2 17
1
100 5 10
80 27
40 54 12
80 54 20
1 1
1
80
1
158
159
80 5 11
1
1
40 27 10
27 14
80 27 18
40
2 18
2 18 2 19
1
60 5 12 40 5 13 20 5 14
55
160
161
40 55 13
80 55 21
1
80
4C
40 97 22
318
The
founded
principle
is
ESSAY
upon
very simple, and
of a
ell,
VII.
calculations
are
which these
may be
is
As
the
length
thread
90 inches, or double
in every
the length of an
split,
it
is
make
exactly one
splitful
of warp of one
long.
Of
course,
240
threads,
make 240
splitfuls, or
12 porters of the
same length.
Or, which*
ells
is
make one
of
ells
porter 12
long.
therefore, the
number
is
the
number quoted
The
it
is
common
ells
to shorten
porters.
by multiplying dozens of
then 24 for spyndles.
Therefore,
by the
The
divisor
is
ells is
8| dozens.
X 60 100 X 60
8|
500
-r
24 == 0-20, or
= 6000,
and 6000
288
= 20-20,
is
result.
A
100
very
ells.
common
Another
rule
is,
therefore,
very
it
By
100
long, contain
spyndle
heer of warp.
by
3,
and
in proportion for
>r
is
For
example, 60 porters
20 spyndles,
to
which adding
20
as before.
MANUFACTURING.
Many
other practical rules
319
to
may be
used,
answer
particular lengths,
principle.
When
may
are called
odd
splits,
they
must be calculated as
fractions of porters.
The
length
splits,
The
is
size, or fineness,
of linen yarn
is
ascertained
by
which
The measure
by any
The
universal
and
Scotland,
is
to use reels of
54 inches, or 14 yards, in
is
circumference.
1
The
account
as follows:
thread
80 threads
7 skeins
18 hanks
It will
= = =
1
1 1
skein
hank
spyndle
= = = =
1a 2 yards
120
do. do.
do.
840
15,120
cotton,
is
portion of 21 to 20.
therefore, been
An
made
From
the
almost universally
as
counted by heers,
and threads,
the
linen
-,
3^0
totally different.
ESSAY
By
this
VII.
is
mode, no account
is,
is
made of
therefore, supposed to
also
be wasted.
The
following
way
adopted by some,
which
linen:
is
as
The
same
ratio, is
is,
taken
to be 16 instead of 12.
The
rule, therefore,
Multiply
8,
repeated in
way,
100
X 60
= 6000,
4
6000
18
16
375,
and 375
=20-15
The
result
is still
Here
would stand
:
thus:
21
20
20-15
19-16 .095238 or
counterbalance waste,
the account
entirely out.
is
made by numbers
evidently adapted
:
the cotton,
if
counted to
its full
extent,
is
by no means
is
so.
The
the
size, or fineness,
of cotton yarn
determined by
number of hanks
in
MANUFACTURING.
COMPUTATION OF WOOLLEN YARN.
321
and counted
yarn, spun
same way
is
as the linen.
The woollen
upon
a reel
by machinery,
usually reeled
72 inches, or
2 yards
in circumference,
The
cal-
woollen.
The
is
sized by the
COMPUTATION OF
SILIt.
The
China,
silk,
is
which
is
never
made up
as
ascertained, an estimate
of
its
fineness
it
may be formed,
as in other yarn.
When
received,
is
COMPARISON OF REEDS.
It has been noticed
in the 1st Essay, that the scale of
number of
linen, cotton,
woollen, and
and 40
The 34
322
versal standard.
ESSAY
VII,
ell, is
the uni-
These
or
splits,
The
latter is the
most
prevalent.
in general,
1
What
is
term a porter.
the
At
number of
The
dents,
or splits, in
reed.
two inches
number of the
The two
The
first
English reed
known.
The
The
third, the
number of
the fourth^
And
and
sixth, the
number of
and
COMPARATIVE
TABLES OF REEDS.
324
ESSAY
VII,
MANCHESTER
and
BOLTON
TABLE,
Dents Dents
Reed.
Inch. ;Yard.j
1
P.
s.
Reed.
S.
20|16.49 593 6
54 44.53 1603 16 2
56 46.18 1662 17
22
[18.14?
653 6 3 11
1
24 19.79 712 7 26
[21.44
12
58 47.83 1722 17 3 10
771
7 4 12
60 49.48 1781 18
11
28 23.09 831 8 2 14
30 24.74 8901 9
15
62 51.13 1840 18 4 11
64 52.78 1900 19 2 13
66 54.43 1959 20
13
32 26.39 950j 9 3 16
34 28.04 1009! 10
1
17
36 29.69 1068! 10 4 18
38 31.34 1128jll 2 19
16
72 59.3812137 21 4 16 74 61.03;2197 22 2 18
1
40 32.98 1187112
1 t
42 34.63 124712 4
2 2
4
5 5
23 19 62.68J2256 78 64.32;2315 23 3 19
76
80 65.97:2375 24 2
90 74.222672 27 2 16
100 82.472969 30 2
1
50 41.23 148415
52 42.88 1543j 15 4
MANUFACTURING.
32;3
STOCKPORT
TABLE.
No.
s.
No.
s.
34
38
17 19
612 6
9
3
90
94
96
45 1620 16 3
47
1692 17
1
5 19
40
44 46
50
20
22
23
48
1728 17 3 16
2 70
1
14
TOO 50 1800 18
104
106 52
828 8 2 17
1872 19
4
1
25
27 28
900 9
53
1908 19 3 1980 20
1
54
56
972 9 4 19
1008 10
1
110 114
116
55
15
16 10
51 2052 21 58 2088 21 2
9 6
60
64 66 70
30 1080 11
32 33 35 37
38
1152 11 4
4
1
120
124
126
60 2160 22
1188 12
62 2232 22 4 14
63 2268 23
1
1260 12 4 15
1332 13 3 1368 14
9
11
74
76
130
134
65 2340 24
67 2412 24 3 19
75 2700 27 3 15
83 2988 30 3 11
80
84
40 1440 14 4
42
1512 15 2 14 1548 15 4 11
150
166
86
43
326
To
ESSAY
VII.
in England.
It
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in the
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