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Necktie a part of the formal wear of men and women is increasingly gaining
popularity as a result of which many companies which include big names like
Zodiac, Park Avenue, Pantaloons etc. and also a huge number of unorganized
players are making their necktie brand available for sale. Lets see how necktie
becomes a part of people in South Mumbai. Project includes the overview on
apparel industry and specifically about the market available for neckties in South
Mumbai.
All the above objective are being looked after in the project but the most important
objective of me doing this project is that, I want to get into apparel industry and
this has enhanced my knowledge and it will enormously help me in near future.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
The project enables me to know about various aspects of apparel industry in India
and mainly about neckties and how this piece of cloth is made , marketed and sold.
➢ India is the world’s second largest producer of textiles and garments after
China.
➢ The textile and garment industry in India is one of the oldest manufacturing
sectors in the country and is currently its largest
➢ India accounts for about 12% of the world’s production of textile fiber and
yarns
To know how did the necktie actually became the necktie we wear today, who was
the person who gave recognition to neckties, the types of neckties and the knots
which are most commonly knotted, what are the views of the people in the South
Mumbai about necktie and everything about the necktie would be studied through
this project.
The project gives a domestic as well as international outlook of neckties in India.
The various types of neckties are Bola tie ,Ascot tie ,Clip on tie, Bow tie and
Cravat
The project shows the manufacturing process of necktie.
Also a survey which will help me to make better decision in my business by
understanding what attitude Mumbaikars have towards Necktie.
Introduction to Neckties
As the Italian novelist Alberto Moravia put it: "As useful article of clothing, a vest
for example, is insignificant precisely because of its utility... Modern man is
permitted but one accessory allowing him to reveal his vision of the world, to
signal his presence in it: the tie."
Necktie - The descendent of cravat , a long piece of cloth worn around the neck
which rests under the shirt collar and is knotted at the throat. It is something we see
alot these days as it has increasingly become a fashion trend , a must have thing in
the wardrobe of an office going individual men and women. It is as well a part of
military and school uniforms.
The wide-ranging social and cultural changes of the 1960s and 1970s changed
fashion for good. Ever since, under ordinary circumstances, wearing a tie has been
an option rather than obligation. A tie offers its wearer the luxury of a beautiful
object, as well as sophisticated means of self-expression. Because it serves no
practical purpose, the tie speaks volumes about its wearer.
A fine tie is a work of art from beginning to end. Whether woven or printed, it is
first designed, transformed into a pattern by skilled artisans and technicians,
engineered, and sewn by experts to meet with the maker's approval before a label is
stitched to the necktie by the maker.
For the smart buyer, the necktie is an opportunity to showcase fine taste, but it pays
to know the range on offer – and the prices that matter – because valuing a good
pick in ties is not an easy thing for many.
Zodiac Clothing Company Limited is the pioneering company in neckties and first
got them to India in the early 1970s when ties were largely imported or were
brought in by those who travelled abroad.
In the organized market, players like Genesis Colors, the company that owns the
Satya Paul brand, began making waves in the early 1990s. Then there are labels
like Bentleys, Reid & Taylor, Peter England and Park Avenue amongst others.
Among designer labels we have names like Satya Paul and Study by Janak that
offer special designs.
The most common material used for ties is silk and silk blends. One can get
varieties like woven jacquard silk, printed silk and artificial silk. Designs like
paisleys (droplet-shaped patterns of Persian origin) are also popular.
Overview of Indian Apparel and Textile Industry
The textile and apparels sector in India is a diverse and heterogeneous industry,
which covers a wide variety of products from hi-tech synthetic and wool fibres to
yarns to fabrics to apparels, cotton fibres to yarns to fabrics to home textiles to
high fashion apparels (knitted and woven). This diversity of end products
corresponds to a multitude of industrial processes, enterprises or market structures.
The Indian textile and apparels industry is in a stronger position now than it was in
the last six decades. The industry, which was growing at 3-4 percent during the last
six decades, has now accelerated to an annual growth rate of 9-10 percent. There is
a sense of optimism in the industry and textile and apparels sector has now become
a sunrise sector.
The catalysts, which have placed the industry on this trajectory of exponential
growth are a buoyant domestic economy, a substantial increase in cotton
production, the conducive policy environment provided by the Government, and
the expiration of the Multi Fibre Agreement (MFA) on 31 December, 2004 and
implementation of Agreement on Textiles and Clothing (ATC).
The buoyant Indian economy, growing at the rate of 8 percent, has resulted in
higher disposable income levels. The disposable income of Indian consumers has
increased steadily. The proportion of the major consuming class (population that
has an annual income of more than US$ 2000) has risen from 20 percent in 1995-
96 to 28 percent in 2001-02. This is expected to move up to 35 percent by 2005-06,
and to 48 percent by 2009-10. This translates into a growth of 9.3 percent over the
next 8 years, and will result in higher spending capacity, manifesting itself in the
greater consumption of textiles and apparels.
To provide Indian consumers with world-class quality in textile and apparels and
retail services, the government has recently allowed single-brand overseas retailers
to set up retail shops in India. The multi-brand overseas retailers/super
markets/investors are already in India to conduct wholesale business to feed
existing retailers with quality products.
If we look at the US and EU import statistics for apparels alone, we find that these
major global players are not inclined to source exclusively from China and India is
considered as the second most preferred destination for major global retailers due
to its strength of vertical and horizontal integration.
The Indian government has always and is continuing to consider the role of textiles
and apparels manufacturing units in India as very critical in achieving the
objectives of faster and more inclusive growth, and has laid emphasis on policies
aimed at creating an environment in which entrepreneurship can flourish.
The textiles and apparels industry is targeted to grow at the rate of 16 percent in
value terms to reach the level of US$ 115 billion (exports US$ 55 billion; domestic
market US$ 60 billion) by 2012, while the fabric production is expected to grow at
the rate of 12 percent in volume terms. Apparels alone are expected to grow at the
rate of 16 percent in volume terms and 21 percent in value terms, while exports are
expected to grow at the rate of 22 percent in value terms.
About a necktie
Raw Materials
The most commonly used fibers for the manufacturing of neckties are silk,
polyester, wool and wool blends, acetate, rayon, nylon, cotton, linen, and ramie.
Neckties made from silk represent about 40 percent of the market. Raw silk is
primarily imported from China and, to a far lesser extent, Brazil. Domestic
weavers of tie fabrics buy their silk yarn in its natural state and have it finished and
dyed by specialists. Technological advances have made possible the use of
microfiber polyesters, which produce a rich, soft fabric resembling silk and which
can be combined with natural or other artificial fibers to produce a wide range of
effects.
Design
The design of neckties is an interactive process between weavers and tie
manufacturers. Because small quantities in any given pattern and color are
produced, and because fabrics can be so complex, tie fabric weaving is seen as an
art form by many in the industry.
The main components of a necktie are the outer fabric, or shell, the interlining
(both cut on the bias), and the facing or tipping, which is stitched together by a
resilient slip-stitch so that the finished tie can "give" while being tied and recover
from constant knotting. The quality of the materials and construction determines if
a tie will drape properly and hold its shape without wrinkling.
A well-cut lining is the essence of a good necktie. This interlining determines not
only the shape of the tie but also how well it will wear. Therefore, it must be
properly coordinated in blend, nap, and weight to the shell fabric. Lightweight
outer material may require heavier interlining, while heavier outer fabrics need
lighter interlining to give the necessary hand, drape, and recovery. Most interlining
manufacturers use a marking system to identify the weight and content of their
cloths, usually colored stripes, with one stripe being the lightest and six stripes
being the heaviest. This facilitates inventory control and manufacturing.
Cost price
A branded or a designer tie can set you back by anywhere between Rs 245 to Rs
10,000. Apart from leading names, there is also the unorganised market where
polyester printed ties can be bought for as low as Rs 100. Industry sources say big
brands often outsource work to a local manufacturer and then sell it at a fat price
on their own labels. "The manufacturing cost of a tie varies between Rs 20 to Rs
1,000 and once branded it sells at a much higher cost," Mr. Shripal Rathod, a local
manufacturer of necktie. And so, looking for a direct purchase with an eye for good
design could save you money.
Manufacturing Process
Ties can be made three ways: by hand, by machine with hand finishing, or
primarily by machine.
Handmade tie specialists, for the most part craftspeople working in home studios,
can turn out no more than ten ties an hour. Designers who employ them can count
on impeccable quality for each piece, every time.
Fashion houses that quality ties at higher volume resort to the next category of
production: machine manufacture with hand finishing.
Piece pressing
Quality silk ties are pocket or piece-pressed. This means that the joint at the neck
(the piecing) is pressed flat so the wearer will not be inconvenienced by any
bulkiness.
Interlining
The interlining is slip-stitched to the outer shell with resilient nylon thread, which
runs through the middle of the tie. Most ties are slip-stitched with a Liba machine,
a semi-automated machine that closely duplicates the look and resiliency of hand
stitching. Hand stitching is often used in the manufacture of high-quality neckties
because it offers maximum resiliency and draping qualities.
The technique is characterized by the irregularly spaced stitches on the reverse of
the tie when the seam is spread slightly apart; by the dangling, loose thread with a
tiny knot at the end of the reverse of the front apron; and by the ease with which
the tie can slide up and down this thread.
The third way of making a necktie is by using solely machine to make a necktie,
Currently such machines are not used in India extensively but they are in China
which help them to produce a large quantity of necktie in way less time as
compared to time taken by other two methods.
History of neckties
Many events in the history of mankind eventually fade into oblivion, but others,
leave their indelible marks for the entire world to see. More than 350 years ago, the
Croats initiated one such influential occurrence. Although started in the 17th
century in a small region on the Adriatic coast, the consequences of this event are
still very much evident the world over. 600 million people now wear the ubiquitous
symbol of Croatia around their necks, close to their hearts.
Believe it or not Croatia is the mother country of the modern necktie but
archaeological evidence of the use of neckties goes back to the Chinese and the
Romans almost two millenniums back.
The result is one of the marvels of the ancient world. Unearthed in 1974 near the
ancient capital city of Xian, the tomb contained an astonishing 7,500 life-size
terracotta replicas of Shih Huang Ti's famed fighting force. Legions of officers,
soldiers, archers and horsemen, all carved in meticulous detail, guard the emperor's
sarcophagus. The armor, uniforms, hair, and facial expressions of the soldiers are
reproduced in exquisite detail. Each figure is different - except in one respect: all
wear neck cloths.
An ancient mystery
Historians say other records indicate the Chinese did not wear ties, so why the
emperor's guards wore carefully wrapped silk cloths remains a mystery. Since silk
was a great luxury, the cloths could indicate the ultimate honor Shih Huang Ti
bestowed on his soldiers; they were trusted enough to guard him until the end of
time.
Did Roman Wear Ties
In 113 A.D., one of Rome's greatest Emperors, the military genius Trajan, erected a
marble column to commemorate a triumphant victory over the Dacians, who lived
in what is now Romania.
The 2,500 realistic figures on the column sport no less than three different styles of
neckwear. These include shorter versions of the modern necktie; cloth wound
around the neck and tucked into armor; and knotted kerchiefs reminiscent of
cowboy bandannas.
While Roman orators often wore cloths to keep their throats warm, soldiers did not
cover their necks. In fact, writers such as Horace and Seneca said only effeminate
men covered their necks.
Skilled warriors
Other sources say cravat is derived from the Turkish word kyrabacs, or the
Hungarian, korbacs, both meaning "whip" or "long, slender object." Researchers
have also noted the word cravat appeared in French before the arrival of the
Croatians. They suggest the term is a corruption of rabat, French for a hanging
collar.
One thing is certain: the elegant French courtiers, and the military immediately
began copying the Croatians. Ordinary soldiers began adorning their necks with
lace, while officers sported muslin or silk, possibly trimmed with embroidery. Even
poor people wore cotton cravats, sometimes of pleated black taffeta.
Cravats Go to England
On his return to England from exile in 1660, Charles II reclaimed the throne that
had been lost during the Puritan revolution and brought with him this new word in
fashion "Cravat". Over the next ten years, this fashion novelty spread across
Europe, as well as across the colonies on the American continent..." After nine
years in exile, aristocrats flooded England, bringing with them a passion for the
pleasures of the European courts. Weary of war, and tired of the austerity imposed
by Oliver Cromwell; England wanted to have fun. Gambling, drinking, music,
dancing, parties, theater, elaborate clothes, grand wigs, and yes, the stylish, new
cravat, were suddenly all the rage. Soon no gentleman would have considered
himself well-dressed without sporting some sort of cloth around his neck--the more
decorative, the better. At times, cravats were worn so high that a man could not
move his head without turning his whole body. There were even reports of cravats
worn so thick that they stopped sword thrusts. The various styles knew no bounds,
as cravats of tasseled strings, plaid scarves, tufts and bows of ribbon, lace, and
embroidered linen all had their staunch adherents. Nearly one hundred different
knots were recognized, and as a certain M. Le Blanc, who instructed men in the
fine and sometimes complex art of tying a tie, noted, "The grossest insult that can
be offered to a man comme il faut is to seize him by the cravat; in this place blood
only can wash out the stain upon the honor of either party."
For those who could afford it, no price was too costly. King Charles II is said to
have once spent 20 pounds and 12 shillings on a single cravat. This was as much as
five times an annual middle class salary.
Lace was not the only material used for cravats. Plaid scarves, ribbon, embroidered
linen tasseled strings and ordinary cotton were all pulled into service. Some
neckwear was so thick it was able to stop a sword thrust.
The Steinkirk
The eighteenth century brought unprecedented innovation in neckwear. The
Steinkirk, a loosely wrapped scarf like tie worn with the dangling end chastely
tucked or pinned to the breast, began to take precedence over the lace cravat in the
early part of the century. So popular was the style, that women were soon attracted to
wearing the more demure version of the necktie, only in more lively colours than the
gent's basic white. By the middle of the century, the feminine interlopers, in their
crimson Steinkirks, had prompted tough young bucks to retrench their neckwear
styles in something altogether more virile: the stock.
The Stock
The stock was the most erect neckwear ever developed. It was especially designed
for foot–soldiers in France and Germanyin order to encourage the martial appearance
of turgid necks and thrusting chins. The stock also had the effect of increasing blood
flow to the face, giving soldiers a ruddy, healthful appearance. In fact, the effect of
the stock was anything but healthful, as the officers obliged the men to tighten their
stocks to the point that "caused the eyes almost to start from their spheres, and gave
the wearers a supernatural appearance, often producing vertigo and faintings, or at
least bleedings at the nose." The excess of stiffness made it impossible for the
soldiers to face left or right, never mind to stoop or to fight. And these constraining
effects were rendered even more severe as sparse military budgets ensured that the
stocks came in only one size. However, the stock, unlike the cravat, did not have to
be tied, and its horsehair, whale bone, pig–bristle, card, pasteboard, or wooden frame
could be covered and recovered with satins, linens, cottons, muslins, silks, or calicos
as the latest fads dictated. Not only that, it was a practical military style, since it
showed dirt less than the Steinkirk.
Softening of the Stock
As with the lace ruffs and millstone collars of nearly a century before, the stiff reign
of the stock was gradually softened by changing men's hairstyles. Republican ideas
were spreading as the eighteenth century progressed, and the trends were toward
shorter and shorter hair. The most fashionable men began sporting a simple pigtail
instead of a wig, with the trailing locks often tied or decorated with black ribbons.
The long ribbons came to be fastened around the neck with a knot in front and the
free ends dangling over the chest. This simple expedient led to the inevitable
imitations and innovations, with coloured and multiple ribbons soon taking over from
the basic black solitaire.
The sailor suit began to be worn in the mid 1800s as yachting became popular. This
has had its greatest impact on clothing for women and children. The modern
sailor's suit was introduced for boys around 1860 and became an instant success.
Still worn today, the white and blue outfit also comes with a dress for girls.
1920s-present day
After the First World War, hand-painted ties became an accepted form of
decoration in America. The widths of some of these ties went up to 4.5 inches
(110 mm). These loud, flamboyant ties sold very well all the way through the
1950s.
In Britain, Regimental stripes have been continuously used in tie designs since the
1920s. Traditionally, English stripes ran from the left shoulder down to the right
side; however, when Brooks Brothers introduced the striped ties in the States a
century ago, they had theirs cut in the opposite direction.
The 1960s brought about an influx of pop art influenced designs. The first was
designed by Michael Fish when he worked at Turnbull & Asser. The term kipper
was a pun on his name. The exuberance of the styles of the late 1960s and early
1970s gradually gave way to more restrained designs. Ties became narrower,
returning to their 2-3 inch width with subdued colors and motifs, traditional
designs of the 1930s and 1950s reappeared, particularly Paisley patterns. Ties
began to be sold along with shirts and designers slowly began to experiment with
bolder colors.
This continued in the 1980s, when very narrow ties approximately 1 inch wide
became popular. Into the 1990s, increasingly unusual designs became common,
such as joke ties or deliberately kitsch ties designed to make a statement. These
included ties featuring cartoon characters or made of unusual materials such as
plastic or wood
Types of knots
The neckties that are worn today can be knotted in more than 85 ways. The famous
book 85 Ways to Tie a Tie written by Thomas Yink and Yong Mao has made
knotting a tie a science, a mathematical operation which is very complex. But the
five types of knots that are largely known and which people usually knot and
considerably simple are Four in hand, Windsor, Half-Windsor , Pratt and Small
knot.
Four in hand
The four-in-hand knot is a method of tying a necktie. Also known as a simple knot
or schoolboy knot, the four-in-hand is believed to be the most popular method of
tying ties due to its simplicity. Some reports state that carriage drivers tied their
reins with a four-in-hand knot, while others claim that the carriage drivers wore
their scarves in the manner of a four-in-hand, but the most likely etymology is that
members of the Four-in-Hand Club in London began to wear the neckwear, making
it fashionable. The knot produced by this method is on the narrow side, slightly
asymmetric, and appropriate for all occasions.
Windsor knot
Half-Windsor knot
The half-Windsor knot is a way of tying a necktie which produces a neat, triangular
knot. It is larger than the four-in-hand knot and Pratt knot but smaller than the
Windsor knot. Despite its name, it is not half the size of the Windsor knot, and
there is no evidence that it is derived from that knot. It works well with light- and
medium-weight fabrics.
Pratt knot
The Pratt knot is a method of tying a tie around one's neck and collar. It is also
known as the Shelby knot and the Pratt-Shelby. The knot was invented by Jerry
Pratt, an employee of the US Chamber of Commerce. He had been wearing his tie
in the Pratt knot for some twenty years before it became popular after TV
personality Don Shelby wore it on air. The New York fashion press then promptly
(and mistakenly) attributed the invention of the knot to Shelby.The Pratt knot is
unusual in that its starting position is 'reverse side out', as does the Nicky knot. It
uses less length than the Half Windsor or Windsor knots, and so is well suited to
shorter ties. Unlike the Four in Hand knot, the Pratt method produces a
symmetrical knot. It is of medium thickness.
Small Knot
The Small knot, or Oriental knot, is the simplest method of tying a man's necktie,
though some claim the simple knot is an alternate name for the four-in-hand knot.
The small knot is not very well-known despite its simplicity. One of the reasons
may be the fact that the small knot is not self-releasing, and may annoy people
accustomed to four-in-hand and Windsor knots who pull at the tie to untangle the
knot.
Types of neckties
Necktie a piece of cloth which add colors to the otherwise dull formal wear which
men and women wear. In its initial stage it was largely referred to as a neckwear,
today there are many variants of the age old cravat like the Bolo tie, bow tie, ascot
tie, clip-on tie and stock tie.
The bolo tie was made the official neckwear of Arizona in 1971. New Mexico
passed a non-binding measure to designate the bolo as the state's official neckwear
in 1987. On March 13, 2007, New Mexico Gov. Bill Richardson signed into law
that the bolo tie is now the state's official tie.
In the United Kingdom, bolo ties are known as bootlace ties.
Silversmith Victor Cedarstaff of Wickenburg, Arizona, claims to have invented the
bolo tie in the late 1940s, and later patented his slide design.
Victor Cedarstaff was riding his horse one day when his hat blew off. Wary of
losing the silver-trimmed hatband, he slipped it around his neck. His companion
joked, "That's a nice-looking tie you're wearing, Vic." An idea incubated, and
Cedarstaff soon fashioned the first bola tie
Bow tie
The bow tie is a men's necktie popularly worn with formal attire, such as suits or
dinner jackets. It consists of a ribbon of fabric tied around the collar in a
symmetrical manner such that the two opposite ends form loops. Ready-tied bow
ties are available, in which the distinctive bow is sewn into shape and the band
around the neck incorporates a clip. Some "clip-ons" dispense with the band
altogether, instead clipping to the collar. The traditional bow tie, consisting of a
strip of cloth one must tie, may be known as a "self-tie" bow tie to distinguish it.
Bow ties may be made of silk, polyester, cotton, or a mixture of fabrics.It is
common to wear a bow tie with a dinner jacket than it is to wear a necktie with
one; the latter, in fact, is technically incorrect. A "self-tie" bow tie, has usually two
shapes available: the "bat wing", which is parallel-sided like a cricket bat, and the
"thistle", sometimes known as the "butterfly".
Ascot Tie
An ascot tie, or ascot, is a narrow neckband with wide pointed wings, traditionally
made of pale gray patterned silk. This wide, formal tie is usually patterned, folded
over, and fastened with a stickpin or tie tack. It is usually reserved for wear with
morning dress for formal daytime weddings and worn with a cutaway morning
coat and striped grey trousers. This type of dress cravat is made of a thicker, woven
type of silk similar to a modern tie and is traditionally either grey or black.
The ascot is descended from the earlier type of cravat widespread in the early
nineteenth century,made of heavil
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