July 2013

Customer magazine of the year

Discover the best of Dublin city right now

Cool Hunting
Park life
Meet the people behind Irelands best-loved parks Finding rags and riches in Paris Honeymooning in Las Vegas

A fine vintage

Big city bling Mountain retreat

Discovering serenity and charm in Catalonia

domhnall gleeson The actor on fame and fortune

complimentary copy

PlUs

AIB Corporate Banking Ireland is proud to support global investment in Ireland.

As one of the most attractive countries for global Foreign Direct Investment, Ireland is home to many of the best-known and most successful companies from around the world. And at AIB, we provide corporate banking services to more of these global companies than any other bank in Ireland. Talk to us about how we can help you locate and grow your companys presence in Ireland.
Contact Details: Diarmuid ONeill, Head of Corporate Banking Ireland Tel: +353 1 641 4808 Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie Web: www.aibcorporate-fdi.com Mick Murray, Head of Foreign Direct Investment Tel: +353 1 641 4248 Email: mick.j.murray@aib.ie

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Contents
July 2013

60
Paris a fine vintage

Going wild in Catalonia

86

In conversation with Domhnall Gleeson

30

Check in
06 ARRIVALS Bidding a warm welcome to jet-setters in Dublins T2 09 CHECK IN Julys event, hotel, food and shopping highlights 20 WHAtS IN My SuItCASE Makers & Brothers Jonathan Legge reveals his travel kit 22 SMARt tRAVELLER Deirdre Collins of Dees Wholefoods extols Stockholms virtues 24 SHELF LIFE Bridget Hourican on HIP Hotels and the latest travelogues 26 ON My tRAVELS Actress Olwen Fours globetrotting highlights 28 ROLL uP, ROLL uP Kids festivals by Lauren Murphy

Regulars
104 48 HOuRS IN COPENHAGEN Pl Conghailes top picks in a nutshell 107 AN INSIDERS GuIDE tO NEW yORK Aoife Wasser hearts NY 111 AER LINGuS INFLIGHt The latest films, TV, music and flight information

Features
30 tAKING tHE LEAD Domhnall Gleeson tells Tony Clayton-Lea about taking the (romantic) lead 36 tHE GREAt OutDOORS Ben Webb meets Irelands park keepers 48 CAPItAL COOL Michael McDermott & Ciaran Walsh on Dublins hipster hotspots 60 LE CHIC SEEKERS Amanda Cochrane goes vintage shopping in Paris 74 A SuRE BEt Las Vegas for honeymooners by Tony Clayton-Lea 86 CAtALONIA DREAMING Mal Rogers explores Spains north-east 98 5 REASONS tO VISIt WARSAW Polands capital checklist by Kit F Chung

136 tRIP OF A LIFEtIME Theres no place like home for Idaho troubadour Josh Ritter

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Contributors
EDITORIAL Editor Frances Power Acting Editor Eoin Higgins Deputy Editor Lucy White Editorial Assistant Mabh McDonnell Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane, Liz Dwyer Group Editorial Director Laura George ART Art Director Clare Meredith Designer Fiachra McCarthy ADVERTISING Commercial Director Clodagh Edwards +353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie Advertising Manager Nolle OReilly +353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan +353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie Publisher Richard Power ADMINISTRATION Acting Head of PR & Promotions Roisin Finnegan, +353 (0)1 271 9643, roisin.finnegan@image.ie Publishing Assistant Lucy Watts Financial Controller Olga Gordeychuk Credit Controller Lisa Dickenson BOARD OF DIRECTORS Managing Director Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie Chairman Robert Power Directors Ann Reihill, Gina Traynor, Patrick Dillon-Malone, Laura George PRINTING Boylan Print Group ORIGINATION Typeform
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin, Ireland, +353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising sales, +353 (0)1 271 9625; fax +353 (0)1 280 8309; image.ie, email info@image.ie. Company registration number 56663 Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial material and opinions expressed in Cara magazine do not necessarily reflect the views of Aer Lingus or IMAGE Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and IMAGE Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the advertising content. Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited without prior permission from IMAGE Publications Ltd.

Ailbhe ODonnell lives and works in

Dublin. While studying graphic design, she developed a keen interest in photography and says she is intrigued by the small details of everyday living and tries to capture her images in a subtle way, finding beauty in the simplest forms. I was excited by the opportunity of photographing vintage Paris for Cara [see page 60]. Paris is a photographers paradise and the vintage shop scene is wonderfully nostalgic. I will definitely return to browse through the vintage treasures of Paris again!

Ciaran Walsh (@kowalshki) and Michael McDermott (@miguelmyriad )

are the editor and publisher, respectively, of LeCool Dublin (@lecooldublin), a designled culture guide to Irelands capital. As Michael relates, Weve tasked ourselves with chronicling the emergence of DIY culture, pop-ups and collectives in Dublin. Ciaran adds: We want to support the spirit of those who are staying put and making a go of it. Read their illuminating feature on Dublins hippest on page 48.

Josh Ritter is a singer-songwriter with

a long standing connection with Ireland through musician pals like Glen Hansard and Mark Geary. Following in the footsteps of his parents, Ritter originally studied neuroscience but later decided that music was his thing. He has released seven albums to date, including the latest, The Beast In Its Tracks. His novel Brights Passage was published in 2011, and when asked to write a Trip of a Lifetime piece for Cara, see page 136, he said emphatically: I would LOVE to. I read the magazine on the plane over to Dublin. I love it! choosing his home state of Idaho as a favourite destination.

July 2013

cara magazine July 2013

Cara magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland. IMAGE Publications Ltd is a member of the Press Council of Ireland and supports the Office of the Press Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie IMAGE Publications Ltd
PUBLISHING COMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010 TO ADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOLLE OREILLY ON +353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE

PlUs

actor Domhnall Gleeson

Customer magazine of the year

Cool Hunting
Discover the best of Dublin city right now

irish parks Dublin las Vegas paris catalonia copenhagen Warsaw new york Josh ritter

Park life

Meet the people behind Irelands best-loved parks

A fine vintage
Finding rags and riches in Paris Honeymooning in Las Vegas

ON THE COVER
complimentary copy

Big city bling Mountain retreat

Discovering serenity and charm in Catalonia

domhnall gleeson The actor on fame and fortune

Freewheeling Ciara O Donovan photographed by Matthew Thompson

WELCOME
BROWN THOMAS
GRAFTON STREET DUBLIN, PATRICK STREET CORK, OCONNELL STREET LIMERICK, EGLINGTON BUILDINGS GALWAY WWW.BROWNTHOMAS.COM

Celebrating luxury, creativity, service and the very best Irish and international brands since 1849.

TO

who Anne, Ken and Maggie Pedicini Flying From London here For ... The Pedicini Family are in Ireland for a few days to visit their son who is studying Economics at DCU.

who Ernie Kovar and Jeanne Frentz Flying From Dallas via Heathrow here For ... Ernie and Jeanne are on a country-wide adventure. Theyre going to have a pint in Galway, see the Cliffs of Moher and kiss the Blarney Stone.

who Bentomin, Patricia and Maria Sesena Flying From Madrid here For ... Adopted Dubliner Patricia was at T2 to meet her parents Bentomin and Maria before showing them Irelands sights over three days.

Cara magazine was at Dublins T2 this month, meeting Aer Lingus passengers over to make music, see family and have some holiday fun.
who Aaron and Robin Morgan Flying From London here For ... Aaron was waiting at the airport gates to meet Robin and her mum who were in the Philippines for her uncles wedding.

Arrivals

who Alexandra Rojas and Javier Zuago Flying From Madrid here For ... English student Alexandra is back to the books after a few weeks holiday at home in Spain. Her boyfriend, Javier, accompanied her for a short visit before he heads home.

WORDS By MABH MCDOnnELL. PHOTOGRAPHS By AnTHOny WOODS

who Amelia and Ruth OMahonyBrady Flying From London here For ... Amelia was in T2 to meet her sister, Ruth, off the plane. Musician Ruth is back home for a week to visit family, , and get busy in the recording studio.

who Claudia Huber and Brix Schaumberg Flying From Hamburg here For ... Claudia and Brix are in Ireland for a working holiday where singer Brix hopes to play a few gigs around the country. who Roslyn, Hayden and Karen Clusker Flying From Perth here For ... Karen spent the last seven months working and travelling in Australia. Her sister Roslyn was waiting at T2 to welcome her home.

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July 2013

Dublins landmark department store and has been proudly, supporting, promoting and nurturing Irish Design since its opening in 1843. Today you can look, feel and touch the work of over 60 talented Irish designers in fashion, beauty, home and giftware alongside leading International names, all under one elegant roof.

Klickity Yvonne Ryan

Paul Costelloe

LOVE IRISH DESIGN

Jennifer Rothwell

Arnotts, 12 Henry St, Dublin 1 / 01 805 04400

Shop online www.arnotts.ie

Like us on Facebook Arnotts Department Store

Follow us on Twitter @arnottsdublin

Blarney Castle & Gardens

Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains. Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.

Open all year round 5 miles from Cork Open Monday - Sunday 9-6 www.blarneycastle.ie info@blarneycastle.ie
n n n

Check in

Find out whats on, where and when in July

Breaking the waves

Surfs up in the Canaries, when Playa Sotavento consecutively hosts the 28th Fuerteventura Windsurfing and Kiteboarding World Cup. The double-hander kicks off with PWA Windsurfing Freestyle (July 20-26) before turning to PKRA Kiteboarding the Slalom Grand Slam (July 27-30) and Freestyle Grand Slam (July 31 to August 3). Adrenaline junkies are invited to watch from the Ren Egli Center, ooh-ing and aah-ing at the races, tricks and feats from the worlds windsurfing and kiteboarding elite, meanwhile therell be a familyfriendly marquee set up on the sands. (fuerteventura-worldcup.org)
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO FUERTEVENTURA EVERY SAT.

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STAy

4 bee-keeping hotels

Biodiversity is the buzzword, and these hotels are a hive of honeyed activity ...

Fairmont Copley Plaza

138 St James Ave, Boston In 2012, Bostons Fairmont Copley Plaza installed 130,000 bees in three hives not only to help pollinate the parsley, chives, sage, rosemary, thyme, lavender and basil grown in its rooftop herb garden but also to provide fresh honey to its OAK Long Bar + Kitchen. No wonder hungry customers swarm to its menus Rooms from $297. +1 617 267 5300; fairmont.com

116 Piccadilly, Mayfair, London Last year this five-star family-run hotel won the Tea Guild award for Best London Afternoon Tea, thanks in part to its rooftop bees producing nectar of the gods. Cue honey-roast ham sandwiches, honey macaroons, mille-feuille and cheesecake they even use it in some of their spa treatments. Afternoon tea from 29.50, rooms from 262. +44 207 499 3464; athenaeumhotel.com

The Athenaeum

Mandarin Oriental Paris

251 Rue Saint-Honor, Paris The rooftops of Pariss Opra, the Grand Palais and Louis Vuitton HQ have been homes to many a bee for ages, and last year the Mandarin Oriental Paris installed 50,000 tiny guests on to its 20th floor, the results of which have appeared in Bar 8s Honey Kingston cocktail (26) and complimentary honey pots offered to guests. Rooms from 825. +33 17 098 7888; mandarinoriental.com/paris

Park Hyatt Hamburg

Bugenhagenstrasse 8, Hamburg Harvested twice a year and served from mid-August in Apple restaurant Park Hyatt Hamburgs liquid gold is created by 120,000 busy bees producing multi-flower honey for the breakfast buffet. You dont even have to stay the night to enjoy the fruits of the bees labour non-guests can buy honey pots to take away. +49 403 332 1234; hamburg.park.hyatt.com

diARy

Head first in eco tourism

Recently crowned Irelands Best Place to Stay, Co Clares Loop Head is an expert example of eco tourism, finds Lucy White. To see Loop Head Lighthouse, or Carrigaholt Castle. To visit the school of 160 dolphins in the Shannon with Dolphinwatch. The cliff walk in Kilkee, followed by a cool down in the Pollock Holes, the natural swimming pools, or a warm up in the local seaweed baths Mary Redmond is extolling the virtues of her Loop Head hometown, which this summer won the Irish Times title of Best Place to Stay in Ireland. I quoted from the Masons survey of 1814, whose description of the peninsula could have been written last week, so similar and unspoiled is the environment here, she says of

diARy

Manchester united in arts

Once upon a time, Britains Manchester was the worlds first industrial city but in recent years it has earned serious stripes for its Manchester International Festival. Kenneth Branaghs Macbeth has long since sold out ditto Goldfrapp but other highlights this July 4-21 include Maxine Peake in Percy Bysshe Shelleys poem The Masque of Anarchy, Willem Dafoe and Mikhael Baryshnikov in an adaptation of Daniil Kharms novella The Old Woman, above, and a 65-hour-long performance by Indian artist Nikhil Chopra at the Whitworth Gallery; mif.co.uk
AER LiNGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO MANCHESTER DAILY.

her winning entry that fought off 1,400 applications. In 2010 Loop Head won a European Eden award for its sustainability credentials, while an emphasis on supporting the local economy such as local guides welcoming visitors off the big tour buses in nearby Kilkee for a more personal visit helping maintain its unique character. For more info on Irelands Best Place to Stay, visit loophead.ie.

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July 2013

PATEK PHILIPPE
GENEVE

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diaRy

Sand in the city

Pull up a deckchair at some of the worlds best urban beaches, says Nancy Rockett.
Little beats the carefree feeling of sun on skin and sand between toes, and landlubbers can still work that beach vibe. From July 20 to August 18, the banks of the River Seine are pedestrianised to make way for Paris Plages; a jamboree of imported sand, sun loungers, ice cream sellers, beach volleyball, book borrowing, swimming pools and water sports, below. Berlins River Spree, too, is a focal point during summer across its 30-odd waterside bars cue imported sand, deckchairs and some of the best nightlife of Germanys party capital. Landlocked Brussels is also in on the action, hosting Bruxelles les Bains, right, from July 5 to August 11, spreading 3,000 tonnes of sand from the North Sea across a 1 kilometre site, where concerts, sporting events and childrens entertainment abound. And for an urban beach with a view, they dont get much better than at New Jerseys Newport Green Park whose River Hudson location has a vista of the Manhattan skyline. The sandy site welcomes an all-day family-friendly beach party on July 24, with kids entertainment scheduled throughout the month.

Food

Irish-born Roisin and Frenchman Matthias Llorente are chefs at Edinburghs widely lauded Bia Bistrot. Eoin Higgins hears from the duo about eating and drinking in the city this month.
If you want food as fresh as it can be, the Edinburgh Farmers Market (edinburghfarmersmarket. com) takes place under the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle from 9am to 2pm every Saturday. Over 55 producers attend the market, and there are fantastic Slow Food cooking demos on the first Saturday of every month. Natural Selection Brewing (naturalselectionbrewing.com) is an annual project by students at the International Centre for Brewing and Distilling at HeriotWatt University participants have to create and produce a new beer, trying to outdo the previous years students efforts. The resultant beer is launched this month. Time for Tea: Tasting at the National Museum of Scotland (www.nms.ac.uk) is a lovely way to while away a morning or afternoon and learn about the origins of tea. Its also a great chance to taste some lesserknown varieties the next one is on July 17th from 10.30am to 12.30pm. Plus, its free! Th The Gardners Cottage (th thegardenerscottage.co) has just been voted Newcomer ju of the Year 2013 in The List magazine, and its no surprise ma as their dinner menu is a no-choice, six-course, daily no changing meal based around ch truly seasonal and intelligently tr sourced food. This month we also have th hugely popular weekend the beer bash: The Scottish Real ale Festival (camra.org.uk) at the fantastic Corn Exchange. With hundreds of ales to try, youre sure to find the perfect pint for your taste buds. Its on from July 11-14.
aER LiNGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND SHANNON TO EdiNBURGH DAILY.

Whats cooking in Edinburgh?

3 best ...
Protect their peepers with these kids sunglasses, says Sive OBrien.
FLaMiNGo SUNGLaSSES 10 at Bluezoo

aviaToR SUNGLaSSES 7 at Marks & Spencer

REd BaNd SUNGLaSSES 17.95 Babybanz at babytravelshop.ie

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July 2013

 Open 7 days a week, all year round Guided tours Tutored tasting Gift Shop Caf
GLaSSES up To DrInkInG rESponSIBLy

Bury Quay, Tullamore, Co. Offaly, Ireland Tel: +353 (0) 57 93 25015 Email: info@tullamoredew.com www.tullamoredewvisitorcentre.com facebook.com/TullamoreDewVisitorCentre
Visit

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CULtURE

A universal language
From French plays to Mongolian folk music, this years Lincoln Center Festival couldnt be more worldly. Chen Shi-Zheng and Gorillaz cohorts Damon Blur Albarn and Jamie Hewlett revive their Chinese opera Monkey: Journey to the West (July 6-28), which previously played in Manchester, Paris, Charleston and London. Elsewhere, John Malkovich directs Theatre de lAtelier in Les Liaisons Dangereuses, 25 years after making Viscount de Valmont all his own in Stephen Frears film adaptation of the same drama (July 9-14; French language with English surtitles). The inimitable Sinead OConnor will be belting out numbers from the likes of Sam Cooke and the Soul Stirrers at The Gospel Sessions (July 26-27), while the dream-like, wordless Murmurs (July 24-28) and the dark Japanese love story Shun-kin (July 9-13) are destined to enchant; lincolncenterfestival.org
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NEW YORK DAILY AND SHANNON ON TUES, THUR AND SAT.

FOOd

A moveable feast
Food festivals abound around Ireland this summer, but few are as hotly anticipated as this months Kenmare Food Carnival. Eoin Higgins dons his party hat.
Whats it all about? The annual Kerry food festival at fecund grub lovers hotspot, Kenmare; last years shindig was a tasty smorgasbord of tastes, tipples and well-known food personalities from across the land and the Kingdom of Kerry itself. Wheres it on? Famous as much for its stunning scenery as its great food, the picturesque enclave nestles comfortably in the embrace of Kenmare Bay. As a starting point for discovering the rest of the Southwest, there are few places that can compete with Kenmares delightful charm. Highlights? This year, the festival promises even more Hibernian food and fun over the weekend with workshops, masterclasses, cookery demonstrations, celebrity appearances and a fun parade, however, the real stars of the carnival are, of course, the regions top food producers and chefs. Whens it happening? The Kenmare Food Carnival is happening the weekend of July 12-14. Tickets for the entire weekend, or a single days fun, can be purchased by visiting kenmarefoodcarnival.com.

honour rse Ronan is guest of MOVIE MAGIC Saoi 14. m Fleadh this July 9at the 25th Galway Fil s o welcomes Star Trek The all-star event als e th , ss cla an acting master Zachary Quinto for Fionnula es a Breeze, starring world premiere of Lif hn en adaptation of Jo Flanagan, and a scre h.com Sea. galwayfilmflead Banvilles novel The

The liberTy belle Forced to close after Hurricane Sandy in October 2012, the Statue of Liberty will reopen this Independence Day. Its infrastructure destroyed by the freak storm, Liberty Island was submerged by 75 per cent but the 127-year-old monument withstood the battering, and will be regaled with a short opening ceremony on July 4; statuecruises.com

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Consult the big sh this side of the pond.

Think Foreign Direct Investment in Ireland and theres one name you need to know - Danske Bank. Our team of advisors are on hand to provide local insight with international experience. For more information, contact Stephen Mullin on +353 (0)1 484 2841 or stephen.mullin@danskebank.ie www.danskebank.ie

LC6003 Danske Bank A/S (trading as Danske Bank) is authorised by The Danish FSA in Denmark and is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland for conduct of business rules.

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food

Nice is the word

For decorous dining on the gorgeous Cte dAzur, a superabundance of superb seafood restaurants means that choosing just one in Nice can be a bewildering proposition. Eoin Higgins narrows down the choices.

dIARY

Chai goes chi-chi

With a dcor that certainly wont please all comers Lne Rouge (7 Quai des 2 Emmanuel, +33 493 894 963; anerougenice.com) makes up for its interior aesthetics with superior gastronomics. Go for the bouillabaisse, its a little expensive at 75 for two people but certainly worth the indulgence for a pitch perfect example of the hearty Provenal stalwart.

Only the second Japanese chef in France to have been awarded a Michelin star, the eponymously named Keisuke Matsushima (22 Rue de France, +33 493 82 2606; keisukematsushima. com) has a seafood offering that is traditional and framebreaking get to the heart of modern French cooking tempered with a minimalist Japanese hand. Here, the 28 prix fixe is a must.

Start with a well-made pastis to enliven your palate at Caf de Turin (5 Place Garibaldi, Nice, +33 493 622 952; cafedeturin. fr) and then move onto a delicious seafood platter, served chilled: oysters, clams, shrimps, and so forth strikingly fresh and intensely flavourful.
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO NICE DAILY AND FROM CORK ON TUE AND SAT.

Fashion and eating may sound like a misnomer but Londons Berkeley hotel has unveiled this seasons high fashion high tea, Pret-a-Portea. These super-stylish morsels wouldnt look out of place on the catwalk: highlights include Jason Wus chocolate leopard print hat-box cake, Manolo Blahniks fondant biscuit slingbacks and Alexander McQueens honeycomb and marzipan Queen Bees. So pretty are these treats you might be afraid to eat them but youll be doing your taste buds a grave disservice. As for the saying you can never be too rich or too thin sure, elasticated waistbands could be the next big thing, right? Pret-a-Portea costs 39 per person; the-berkeley.co.uk
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK, SHANNON AND BELFAST TO LoNdoN DAILY.

BEAUTY

Emerald style
Jade beauty gems are having a moment this summer. By Liz Dwyer.
Capturing the essence of an Italian bombshell ToM foRd NERoLI PoRTofINo BodY oIL is decadence bottled, 40.30. Taking first prize in the talon contest this season is the limited edition YSL LA LAQUE CoUTURE IN VERT doRIENT, 21. Mediterranean notes mingle with jasmine and lily accords in RoBERTo CAVALLI s zesty new ACQUA EdT, 72.50. Tan fans will love ST TRoPEZ TAN REMoVER for preventing patches and stripping off stripes, 20.30.

lery (Pearse as it seems at the Science Gal TRICKS & TREATS All is not new sciencegallery.com), where its Street, Dublin 2, 01 896 4091; sor appropriately surnamed Profes show Illusion curated by the ery. can chi l the science behind optica Richard Wiseman explores
MUSIC

Veteran soul man Bobby Womacks career has been unequivocally revived by Damon Albarn who, in 2009, coaxed the Ohio singersongwriter out of pseudo hibernation to sing on Gorillazs Plastic Beach LP. Three years later, a reinvigorated Womack returned with the critically acclaimed The Bravest Man in the Universe, his first album of original, self-penned material since 1994s Resurrection (co-produced by NBF Albarn and XLs Richard Russell). Womacks raw, grizzled vocals and sparse electronica create a pleasing frisson, while guest artists Lana del Rey, Fatoumata Diawara and Gil Scott-Heron add scope. This month he plays Vienna (July 3), Dublins Olympia Theatre (July 9), Stockholm (July 17) and at the UKs Latitude Festival (July 21). bobbywomack.com

Soul in the machine

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July 2013

PHOTOGRAPH BY JAMIE-JAMES MEDINA

Hamilton Khaki Pilot 608

Rado HyperChrome Automatic 3,516

Buy before you fly

DUBLI N AIRPOR T T1 & T 2

Tax savings for all passengers

Swatch Scuba Libre 62

Tissot Luxury Automatic 960

e : dublin.hourpassion@ir.swatchgroup.com

t : +353 (0)1 9446463

www.hourpassiondublin.com

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Wish you were here

Thi month, reader This and passenger Philip Joyce, left, presents a Jo long exposure shot of a lo carousel near the Eiffel ca Tower in Paris. Philip is To from Blanchardstown, fr Co Dublin Dublin, and took up photography as a hobby a few years ago. He says, When I was in Paris I really wanted to get a shot of the Eiffel Tower I hadnt seen before. I spotted a little funfair a couple of kilometres from the tower and left the shutter open for about five minutes so I could blur out the people and get the motion of the carousel in the shot.

The technicals Have you a stunning photograph of your trip to an Aer Lingus destination to share? Send it to us at cara.wishyouwerehere@image.ie and well publish our favourite shot in the October/ November issue. Photographs must be a 300-dpi high resolution file and accompanied by a portrait of yourself and 100 words about the story behind the shot. The editors decision is final.

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July 2013

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HeadPHones Bose, 124 at Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 16

rD GIllIGAN

sunglasses Illesteva, 220 at mrporter.com iPad 339 at Arnotts, Henry Street, Dublin 1

PHOTOG rA

PH By rICHA

Whats in my
Pocket square Alexander Olch, 55 at mrporter.com

Jonathan legge is a product designer, design consultant, and one half of Irish sibling duo makers&brothers.com, the online design and craft site. Flitting between design projects in Stockholm; London (where he lives); Dublin, where the business is; and New York for cool pop-up store events (at The Standard High line NYC this autumn), is all in a days work. Sive OBrien peeks in his bag.
cotton Jacket Vetra, 135 at presentlondon.com

suitcase

donkey Print t-sHirt Marni, 146 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2

digital caMera 498 at sony.com

knitted sWeater 130 at norseprojects.com

WatcH Junghans, 794 at skandium.com

Moleskin notebook 10.90 at Eason, nationwide

Pure Pu soaP 4.70 at drbronner.co.uk trainers Nike, 150 at nike.com Wallet Comme des Garons, 65 at doverstreetmarket.com sWiM sHorts 158 at orlebarbrown.co.uk

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No need to travel for world-class care

Whether you are travelling to Ireland or live here, its comforting to know that world-class care is within easy reach. And when emergencies happen, you can trust the specialists at UPMC Beacon Hospitals Emergency Department and expert physicians to provide prompt, urgent treatment when you need it most. Our Emergency Department is open Monday to Saturday, 8am-8pm and if hospitalisation is required, the Hospital accepts Irish private health insurance, BUPA International and many others including some US-based health plans. UPMC Beacon Hospital located in Sandyford, Dublin is a full-service community teaching hospital, part of the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center, an internationally recognised health system. UPMC Beacon Hospital is a leader in orthopaedics, cancer, surgery and surgical specialties, and cardiac services all backed by one of the most trusted names in health care UPMC. World-class care close to home wherever home might be.

UPMC Beacon Hospital. Because you deserve better.

www.beaconhospital.ie www.upmcglobalcare.com

01 29 39 999

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Smart Traveller|

Networking in Stockholm, or business tripping in Chicago? Lisa Hughes investigates the best bases.

LittLe BLack Book STOCKHOLM

As MD and founder of Dees Wholefoods, an Irish vegetarian food company, Deirdre Collins travels the world spreading the word on nutrition. Her favourite city to do business in is Stockholm.
Stockholm is great for business travellers because The transport links are so efficient ... You can get online pretty much everywhere, and Wi-Fi is free at any hotel Ive stayed in. A good place for business meetings Try Nytorget Urban Deli (Nytorget 4, 116 40, +46 859 909 180; urbandeli.org) in the hip Sdermalm district. The food and service are amazing, as is the lively atmosphere. Best business hotel I like to stay at the J Hotel in Nacka Beach (Ellensviksvgen 1, 131 28 Nacka Strand, +46 8601 3000; hotelj. com), which overlooks both the ocean and the city. Its ten minutes outside the city and a peaceful spot. The boathouse Restaurant J serves wonderful food, if slightly on the pricey side. Business lunch The vegetarian buffet in the Ortagarden (Nybrogatan 31, 114 39, +46 8662 1728; ortagarden.com) is excellent value, but nothing in the city can beat Hermans in Sdermalm (Fjllgatan 23B, +46 8643 9480; hermans.se), which has supertasty vegetarian food and a terrace with great views. Best for business drinks The Skybar on top of the Radisson Blu Royal Viking (Vasagatan 1, 101 24 Stockholm, +46 850 654 000; radissonblu.com/ royalvikinghotelstockholm) is pretty spectacular. Tipping Ten per cent is the standard if youre happy with your meal and its common to leave small change as a tip in bars. Saving time on business travel Plan ahead and book online. Pre-book all your train journeys online and book a meal on-board to save time. It is also worth using a company to plan your meetings I used marketlink.se for my first visit to Sweden. Money saver Stockholm has a reputation for being very expensive but I dont find it any more so than Dublin. Buy a travel pass and the metro will take you from the shopping district to the old town, to trendy Sdermalm. On your downtime Pay a visit to Central Badet thermal spa (Drottninggatan 88, 111 36, +46 8545 213 00; centralbadet.se), an Art Nouveau haven in the middle of the city. A visit to the baths costs around 30 but there is no time limit on how long you stay.

Business hotels in Chicago

2 3

Must-have travel gadget Hardshell EO Roller Case

Lightweight enough to use as a carry-on but durable enough to keep your electronics safe, the Hardshell eo Roller case has individual, expandable pockets for your tablet and laptop, and holds enough clothes for a long weekend ($299.95, goincase.com).
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PARK HYATT With an enviable location on the Magnificent Mile, this sophisticated hotel, above, offers views across the city and Lake Michigan as well as having valet parking and free internet. The stylish NoMi Kitchen, with its outdoor terrace, is the perfect spot for morning meetings. (800 North Michigan Avenue, +1 312 335 1234; parkchicago.hyatt.com) FAIRMONT CHICAGO A stones throw from scenic Millennium Park, this luxury hotel boasts spacious rooms with iPod docks and 42-inch flat-screen TVs. The Fairmont Gold Concierge Level is a business travel haven with a private lounge, a free business centre with all amenities and 5,860 square metres of meeting space. (200 North Columbus Drive, +1 312 565 8000; fairmont.com/chicago) SOFITEL CHICAGO WATER TOWER Stay in a chic room decorated in bright colours and featuring plush white beds at this fourstar property. Located two blocks from the Magnificent Mile, the hotel offers excellent meeting and conference facilities, SoFit Recreation Centre and 24/7 business centre and concierge services. 20 East Chestnut Street, Downtown, +1 312 324 4000; sofitelchicago.com) COMFORT SUITES Forget tiny rooms, this hotel offers spacious studios and one or two bedroom suites with home comforts such as full kitchens and laundry services so you can travel light. The internet and breakfast are free, as is access to three meeting spaces and a 24-hour business centre. (320 North Michigan Avenue, +1 312 384 1208; comfortsuiteschicago.com)

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Shelf Life|

Reading the landscape: Bridget Hourican highlights a geographical history of Ireland and some of the best native crime writing.

Whos reading what?

Egyptian novelist Ahdaf Soueif likes to read about her destination when travelling.

THE AUTHENTIC LOOK

Stylishly sophisticated bolthole decorated with traditional Moroccan elements and materials that have been used in a pareddown, bold, and contemporary way thats a description of Hotel Tigmi near Marrakesh, but it could serve for any of the hotels, such as Hotel Raya, above, featured in Amazing Places Cost Nothing: The New Golden Age of Authentic Travel by Herbert Ypma (Thames & Hudson, 24.95). Turn the pages for photo after photo of white-washed walls, stripped floors, exposed beams, crisp sheets and traditional fixtures. The man behind HIP hotels, Ypma

WHAT ARE YOU READING? Iraqi author Sinan Antoons Hail Mary. It was short-listed for the International Prize for Arab Fiction. I hope it will be available in English soon. BEST BOOK TO TAKE ON A JOURNEY? We have some ancient Mills and Boon in our summer house in Egypt. They belonged to my aunt and I always re-read bits when Im there. But really, mostly when Im travelling I read good guide books or local histories. BOOK YOU WISH YOUD NEVER TAKEN? Tolstoys War and Peace. I was so involved with it that I couldnt engage with the journey! FAVOURITE PLACE FOR A HOLIDAY? picks out 30 undiscovered, I really love going to our place on the north affordable places to stay, coast of Egypt. I always check that the sea revealing a penchant really is the amazing turquoise I remember WELL VERSED for France, Italy and the sand is really white. Prose, poetry, video and India and WHAT ARE YOU LOOKING FORWARD and personal histories from basking in the TO SEEING IN IRELAND? storymap.ie collide at the Irish sun. Forget Its my first visit to Ireland but of course Writers Centre on July 5-12 cold, rain, or I have an Ireland of the mind through as part of this years 10 Days wind when he reading Joyce, Synge and Edna OBrien. in Dublin Festival , the series goes to the US, So Im looking forward to a totally new having an expat theme; its Arizona or experience but one where there will be 10daysindublin.ie / Palm Springs. His many moments of recognition. writerscentre.ie literary style ranges

from Wallpaper hipster to Austin Powers groovy but he certainly knows how to seek out places you want to visit.

Ahdaf Soueif is author of The Map of Love. She will appear as part of the West Cork Literary Festival, at the Maritime Hotel, Bantry, on July 7 at 8.30pm.

New travel reads ...

Peking to Paris by Dina Bennett (Skyhorse Di Publishing, 16.38). In Pu 2007, to commemorate 20 the 1907 Peking-Paris th car rally, Bennett, her ca husband, and other hu well-heeled ecce eccentrics undertook the same 16,000- kilometre trip in a 1940 Cadillac LaSalle ... the car breaks down but the marriage survives. 24 |
July 2013

The Longest Road by Philip Caputo (Henry Ph Holt, 18.38, out July Ho 16). In 2011, Pulitzer16 prize author Caputo pr packed his wife and pa two dogs into a truck tw in Florida en ro route to Alaska, 26,000 kilometres away. On the journey he asks everyone he meets what unites such a huge, diverse country.

Canoeing the Congo by Philip Harwood (Summersdale, 9.99). (S The worlds deepest river, the Congo, starts in th Zambia and flows 4,702 Za kilometres to the Atlantic ki Ocean. Ex-mar Ex-marine Harwood spent five months alone on a canoe facing swamps, crocodiles, hippos, snakes, malaria ... and man.

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On my travels
The charismatic Breton/Irish actor Olwen Four divulges her wanderlust to Sive OBrien.
As a performer for Irelands eminent theatre companies, Olwen Four has also trodden the boards of some iconic stages including Pariss Thtre Des Bouffes Du Nord, Brooklyns BAM Harvey Theatre and Tokyos The Globe. From July 18-27, she brings to life the voice of Dublins River Liffey in Riverrun, an adaptation of Finnegans Wake by James Joyce at the Galway Arts Festival ( galwayartsfestival.com) and at the Kilkenny Arts Festival from August 15-17 (kilkennyartsfestival.com).
I grew up in Aughrusbeg, on the very edge of the Atlantic, near Inishbofin and Omey Island in Galway. There is nowhere like it. The most rewarding trip was at the launch of a water project in the middle of nowhere in South Africa an all-day festival celebrating the installation of the only pump with clean water within a 30-minute walk from the village. Three standout holidays through the desert in Western Egypt in 1983, by bus, then hitching a lift on an oil tanker, stopping for days in the oases of Dakhla and Baharia; ten days in the Namib desert in 1997; and travelling by four-wheel drive from Caracas through the

Grand Savanna in Venezuela. The most interesting culture is at the moment, Japanese, especially the very ancient theatre tradition of Noh. And, South American culture for its music. Interesting stories abroad usually involve a potential disaster, like getting lost or stuck in the desert overnight a beautiful experience once you surrender to it or thinking that your travelling companion in Venezuela (an Irish missionary priest) had fallen into a gorge and died. Or, nearly drowning while delivering a letter from my brother to a hermit who lived in Canaima, near Angel Falls! The best performance is one that leaves you disturbed and impassioned in a way that you cant describe.

The funniest thing to happen abroad was getting lost for hours in the Grand Savanna. We sang to pass the time as we drove around in unknown circles. Thank God for the hip flask of whiskey. The most inspiring person I have starred opposite is most recently, Sean Penn. He is a true artist. Another was a seven-year-old girl, Ciara Harrison, who had an uncanny knowledge of what was happening at any given moment, as though it was being beamed down to her from another place. If you could go anywhere in the world, it would be Maybe Iceland for a few days and then travel onwards by sea. Places on my wish list ... Greece Ive never been and also Mongolia, where I would

like to learn throat singing. Im drawn to anywhere with water, yet Im also drawn to the desert. I would love to travel down The Nile, Amazon or Mississippi. My husband David once walked out the door in Ranelagh wearing a knapsack, and followed the Grand Canal until he reached Athlone. I should do that, maybe along the Liffey and follow it literally, as opposed to metaphorically as I do in the production of Riverrun. Id definitely return to Japan. Ive only been to Tokyo, I stayed in a Ryokan on the first night, which introduced me to Matcha tea and a whole new way of living, sleeping and washing. I also had an interesting moment, like a memory of having been there before, in another life.

PHOTOGRAPH By COLM HOGAN

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3 best canal trips

With its 58 locks and 47 bridges, Swedens Blue Ribbon aka the Gta Canal connects a network of lakes as well as Stockholm with Gothenburg. Boat rentals and pleasure cruises are plentiful, as is bike hire along the way perfect for visiting the plethora of villages, museums and churches. ( gotakanal.se)

Irelands River Shannon is 386 kilometres long and spans 11 counties thats a lot of sightseeing opportunities. From Co Fermanagh in Northern Ireland to Co Kerry in the Irish Republic, the waterway offers diversity for both leisurely barge and cruiser holidays and short but sweet three-day jaunts. (shannon-river.com)

New York is best known for its skyline but the State also boasts more than 843 kilometres of canals. Dating back to the early-1800s, the waterway links Erie Canal in the west with Hudson Rivers Chaplain Canal in the east, welcoming every type of vessel from kayaks to pontoons to cruise ships. (nyscanals.gov)

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Doing it for the kids

From acrobatics to astronomy, theres a varied line-up of entertainment for children this summer, reports Lauren Murphy.
ummer holidays, boring? Not this year. The Irish have always placed a strong emphasis on family, but that element is especially pronounced in this summer of The Gathering, with events taking place in every county to keep even the youngest clan members satisfied. Aspiring young jugglers, platespinners and stilt-walkers can tap into their inner Bozos at a fun, circus skills workshop, Roll Up! Roll Up!, which runs at The Ark in Dublins Temple Bar from July 4 to August 31 (1a Eustace Street, Dublin 2, 01 670 7788; ark.ie). The circus remains an extremely popular art form and we are lucky in Ireland to have an incredibly rich circus heritage, says organiser Muireann Sheahan. Everyone will be encouraged to roll up their sleeves and have a go. Performers will guide visitors through four floors of interactive exhibits, after which theres the chance to learn a specific skill to set the Big Top alight. Its up to you whether you want to pursue the circus life afterwards but watch out for that banana skin on the way out. On the other hand, perhaps the little people in your life have their sights set further than the Big Top. Blackrock Castle Observatory, tucked

away on the outskirts of Cork city, is running a Space Camp for wannabe astronauts from July 8-12 and 22-26 (Castle Road, Blackrock, Co Cork, 021 435 7917; bco.ie). Kids, aged eight to twelve, will learn the secrets of the solar system, build and launch their own rockets and stargaze via a remote telescope from Lanzarote. For something the whole family can enjoy, the observatory also runs a free astronomy workshop on the first Friday of every month. For an event that combines history, literature and breathtaking natural beauty, visit Avondale House birthplace of Irish political leader Charles Stewart Parnell on July 6. There, Chapterhouse Theatre Company is staging an open air production of childrens classic The Wind in the Willows (Rathdrum, Co Wicklow, 04 044 6111; chapterhouse.org), Kenneth Grahames classic tale brought to life via music, song and dance. History looms larger over the File Brian Bor from July 4-7, the annual celebration of the OBrien clan founder in Killaloe and Ballina, Co Mayo (086 446 2446; feilebrianboru. com). Hopefully therell be much less blood and a lot more giggles during the Medieval battle re-enactments, sword-fighting, street theatre, music,

Jumping for joy sail through the summer holidays at one of Irelands many childrens festivals this year.

cooking workshops, falconry, and more, culminating in a fireworks finale over the River Shannon. Finally, prepare to be gobsmacked at the Laya Street Performance World Championship in Dublin (July 12-14, Merrion Square) and Cork (July 20-21, St Patricks Street; spwc.ie). This popular event draws huge crowds every year, but theres truly something for everyone, with fire-eaters, magicians, contortionists, breakdancers and tutu-wearing unicyclists vying to be crowned the most entertaining and eccentric in their field. The congenial atmosphere is enhanced by food stalls, buskers and a Ministry of Silly Ideas, wherein custard pies are flung with gusto, and a record-breaking attempt will be made for most water balloons thrown simultaneously at a clown. Best of all, its completely free.

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3 Family Festivals
LOLLIBOP FESTIVAL, LONDON, AUGUST 16-18 Taking place at the Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, Lollibop is essentially the Olympics of childrens entertainment. Cue big-name live turns by Peppa Pig and Transformers, an Enchanted Forest, Science Zone experiments, a Lollibop Kitchen and more. lollibopfestival.co.uk

SUMMERSTAGE GLOBAL FAMILY DAY, NEW YORK, JULY 7 A free, family-friendly version of Central Parks acclaimed SummerStage concert series, this afternoon-long programmes mix of physical theatre, dance and kid-friendly music includes a performance by well-known childrens recording artist Elizabeth Mitchell. cityparksfoundation.org

SPRAOI , WATERFORD, AUGUST 2-4 Its no surprise that spraoi is the Irish word for party, because thats what this long-running family festival is all about. The streets of Waterford come alive with music, street performers, acrobatic and circus displays, culminating in a Flotsam and Jetsam-themed parade and a fireworks extravaganza. spraoi.com

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interview

time to shine
he first thing you notice about 30-yearold, six-feet-plus Irish actor Domhnall Gleeson is the shock of unruly red hair that announces itself without so much as a beg-yourpardon. The second thing you notice is a certain casualness of demeanour that comes with not really noticing that members of the public are looking at you; and the third is just how much of a nice guy he is. He may be wearing Alexander McQueen

Domhnall Gleeson has been a presence on stage and screen for the past decade but it has taken a Richard Curtis film to cast him as a romantic lead. Gleeson talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about following his father into acting and dodging fame. Photographs by Richard Gilligan.

threads (the price of which you really dont want to know) for the photo shoot that accompanies this article, but back in a high-ceilinged room at Dublins five-star Merrion Hotel for our interview, its off with the fancy tops and back on with his red striped T-shirt. For someone so grounded, it will be a measure of his mettle as to how he engages with the response to his forthcoming movie, About Time. Gleeson has been a steady screen presence (as well as a director/

writer of two well-received short films) for the best part of ten years, yet his film roles to date have been character parts, blink-and-you-missit parts or I-know-the-face-but-justcant-place-the-name parts. About Time will change all that. In a career first, Gleeson plays a leading role. Not only that, but its a leading role in a rom-com directed and written by Richard Curtis (he of Four Weddings and a Funeral and Love, Actually fame), and co-starring American actress

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IntervIew

Rachel McAdams. The plot revolves around a suspension of disbelief: the male line of the Lake family can, on reaching the age of 21, travel back in time but only to change events in their own lives. Cue Tim (Gleeson) repeatedly making sure, via his handy time-shifting ability, that Mary (McAdams) will fall in love with him. To observers, About Time isnt just another movie for Gleeson its a game changer. He deflects such a notion in a typically self-deprecating manner: Im sure a bunch of more famous people were cast for it and refused it, so then I was offered it. If youre honest with yourself thats probably the way it happens a lot of the time. True enough, but youd be hard pressed to come up with a shortlist of other actors, Irish or otherwise, that could as Gleeson flawlessly manages to do throughout the movie channel their inner English middle-class attributes without being in any way irritating or false. In some ways its just another movie, he says, initially guardedly, because an actor needs to work, so that they can make a living and express themselves, and do all of those artsy things that actors talk about. Thats why most actors work. If anyone goes into acting in order to make piles of money then theyre probably an idiot. The reason you do it is to make something worthwhile that might stick around for longer than you live. On the other hand, however, Gleeson is cognisant of the fact that About Time is a bigger undertaking than many other movies hes appeared in. He mentions a previous role in a big budget film (2012s highly stylised Anna Karenina, which was directed by Joe Wright and co-starred Keira Knightley) where he played a romantic figure. That was, he admits with a smile, quite different to his usual tortured, killed, under huge physical, life-threatening pressure roles. So I felt that if, as an actor, you could be in danger of your life, then why cant you be in love? I also didnt want to be the guy who was in drama roles all the time I really 32 |
July 2013

Chemistry at work Gleeson shares the romantic lead with Rachel McAdams in About Time.

wanted to see if I could do comedy. Such characteristics go back years. Domhnall is, just in case you didnt know, the son of acclaimed actor Brendan Gleeson, and it could be argued contracted the acting bug from a very early age. He recalls being on various television and movie sets as a child (I remember there were free biscuits on the set of Braveheart !) as well as enjoying his roles in secondary school productions of Grease and King Lear. He regards his Road to Damascus-like experience, however, as not occurring until his late teens, when he read the play The Lieutenant of Inishmore, by playwright (and now also filmmaker) Martin McDonagh. Everything about that play was just amazing, Gleeson enthuses. Up to that point in my life it was the best thing Id ever read, including novels. It was my all-time favourite thing; Id be reading it on my way into college and I just found it so funny it made me laugh many times on every page. In what was either fate or serendipity (or both, come to think of it), around the time that he was reading the play, McDonagh and theatre producers were holding auditions for a substantial part. Gleeson shakes his head dislodging long strands of hair in doing so at what happened next. Amazingly, madly, I got the part,

and so the first real acting job I had, at the age of 19, was in Londons West End. Very quickly from then, I realised that acting was what I wanted to do. Small roles followed, as did college (I was unwilling to work until I got my degree) and, perhaps crucially at that point in his life, calm advice from his parents. When I was in college, they said to me that I should choose a career based around what I was interested in and not what I thought would make me the most money. Of course, several years previously, Gleesons father had done exactly that by quitting his teaching job for a stab at full-time acting. It was a risky move, he admits, but he and my mother realised that it was what he wanted to do, and if he was going to be happy, he had to give it a shot. I imagine that if things hadnt gone as well as they did for him and it wasnt all good at the start, I know then Im sure he would have gone back to teaching; there is a certain amount of reality that impacts on decisions you make. On the subject of his famous father, Gleeson knows only too well that the virtues (and, in some cases but not Gleesons the sins) of the father can be laid at the feet of the son. Its possible some people do this, but Ive never defined myself as son of Brendan. Or the fact of him being my father as something that

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held me back in any way. Everybody has to be known as something, and Im as proud to be the son of my parents as Im proud to be in a film that I hold in high regard. Its never been an issue for me, to be honest. And what about his decision to choose acting as a risky career option did his father ever try to dissuade him from entering the profession? No, is Gleesons succinct, polite answer. My parents always supported what I wanted to do. Every now and again, however, you would be reminded that if youre going to go into acting, then youre going to have periods of time possibly very lengthy where youre not working. That it can be a very difficult lifestyle, even if youre successful at it; and that standing on a red carpet is merely one of approximately three times a year out of a very unglamorous schedule ... But no, they were always really supportive, as I say, and the advice was given because they just wanted me to go into the business knowing the risks.

If you get a sense of the person from the movie roles they choose, then we can safely say that Domhnall Gleeson is in it for the quality of the work, that hes exceptionally good at what he does, and that he has no time for the fame game or the culture of celebrity. That said, About Time has the words massive hit stamped through it. Will it matter if Gleesons commercial profile goes skywards? It matters if it impacts on your

life, he ponders. It matters if it makes it difficult for you to have a pint in a pub with your friends. And it can matter in a way that might make casting directors choose you for a role that they otherwise would have passed you over for. Of course, I dont have any idea as to what will happen when the movie is released and, in a way, theres no point worrying about things that you have no control over. If it happens, then Ill have to reassess. Fame having such an effect on you living your life is not nice, and in terms of it being something to aspire to, then no, I would follow my fathers lead on that, which is to say that its a load of rubbish. Except Gleeson uses a ruder word than rubbish. And with that, he runs his fingers through his mop of hair, laughs, stretches out his long legs, and awaits fame to confront him. Fame, you sense, is going to have a tough fight on its hands.
About Time (Universal Pictures) is released in Ireland, UK and Europe from September.

Domnhall Gleesons favourite ...

MUSIC I just downloaded David Bowies Hunky Dory album, and its very, very good. I havent listened to The Next Day, his new album, yet I only know the single, Where Are We Now?, which is brilliant. I felt I needed to educate myself about Bowie I know I should have heard Hunky Dory by this stage, but Im the kind of person who has certain bands they listen to all of the time. One of these is the Strokes, who came along when I was 19, and they were massive for me. Ditto Sigur rs and the Dandy warhols the bands I loved between the ages of 16 and 20 still matter to me. One album Im really looking to hearing is Absolute Zero by Irish band Little Green Cars. Oh and I love the Delorentos album, Little Sparks. Ive always really loved what theyve done, but this album is a major step up. BOOKS Im really bad recently with books, because I tend to read a lot of scripts. That said I have a book of Philip Larkins collected poetry that I have with me all the time. Ive been reading books by Kazuo Ishiguro Id read Never Let Me Go when I was preparing for my part in the film but thought Id catch up on his other books. And Im also dipping into a biography of raymond Chandler A Mysterious Something in the Light, by Tom Williams. I love Chandler ... I also love Kevin Barrys short story collection, There Are Little Kingdoms. And speaking of him, I really must get my hands on City of Bohane. BArS I like Kehoes, South Anne Street, and Smyths, Haddington Road, both in Dublin. I like sitting in a pub in the daytime, having a coffee, or sometimes a bottle of beer, and reading a newspaper, a book, or a script. As for

food I used d to go to The winding Stair quite a lot near Bachelors Walk; lovely food, lovely people but I havent been for a while. For my 30th birthday, though, my friends got me a voucher for the place, so Ill be back soon! DUBLIn PLACeS I grew up in Malahide, which is north of Dublin on the coast, so thats always a draw for me. I still have friends there, and I love the village and the people. Its very peaceful just walking through the castle grounds and then further on out along the estuary.

Top, Gleeson hanging out in Merrion Square, Dublin. Clockwise from left, Bowies Hunky Dory; Kevin Barrys There Are Little Kingdoms; tasty bites at The Winding Stair; Malahide Castle.

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he only place
in

Grace, Audrey and Marilyn meet

a great cup of tea

Ireland where

On her 1961 visit to Ireland, Princess Grace wore a custom green Givenchy wool suit. This exquisite garment and her evening dress from the movie High Society, when she was still simply Grace Kelly, are on permanent display in the Gallery of Style Icons in our visitors centre in Newbridge, Co. Kildare. Accompanied by the dresses made famous by Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Diana Princess of Wales, Barbra Streisand and Tippi Hedren among a host of famous names it is the only permanent collection of its kind in the world. Admission is free, seven days a week and any trip includes a chance to tour our extensive showroom and spend some time in our restaurant - almost as famous for its quality as our jewellery and homewares. Come for the style. Stay for the cakes. We look forward to seeing you here.

people

the

Great
ucked away in a huge eerie of twigs and small branches, high in the windswept wilds of Killarney National Park in Co Kerry, are two fluffy balls of downy feathers. They are white-tailed eagle chicks and in Irish conservation circles they are both stars. They are the summer highlight in the park, declares a delighted Frank McMahon, the district conservation officer. We hope they will fledge and help increase the eagle population. As the first white-tailed eagles to be born in the wild in Ireland for over a century, theyre the result of six years hard work. More than 100 young birds have been imported from Norway, carefully nurtured in Killarney National Park and encouraged to breed. Irelands national parks, however, are about a lot more than saving birds of prey. Each of the six parks Killarney, Ballycroy in Co Mayo, the Burren in Co Clare, Connemara in Co Galway, Glenveagh in Co Donegal, and Wicklow is a fantastic resource that attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors, both recreational and educational, every year. A pair of hiking boots

Whether youre a fan of wild landscapes or something more manicured, theres an Irish park to suit. Ben Webb talks to the guardians of our green spaces. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

outdoors
and some suitably effective rainwear is all you need to discover Glenveaghs mountains and moors or Ballycroys blend of Atlantic blanket bog and rolling hills. Some of these landscapes are unique to Ireland. The Burren is almost lunar in appearance but bursts into life in summer. Alpine and Arctic plants grow next to Mediterranean plants and acidloving plants grow in lime-rich soil, says Emma Glanville, the conservation ranger. Nowhere else in the world has this unique mix of plants. The parks are also fertile places for the imaginations of the thousands of visiting school children. Clare Bromley, head of the nature education team at Glenveagh, says its not just pupils who learn something either. Teachers often say weve brought the school curriculum alive for them as well as the children, she says. And parents tell us their childs visit triggered conversations back in the family home about wildlife. Irelands rich cultural heritage is also allowed to flourish. Traditional crafts such as horse-shoeing, harness-making, horse ploughing and threshing are still carried out on Killarney National Parks farm and, to help keep other parts of traditional Irish life alive, a replica schoolhouse from the 1950s is soon to open. Outside the national parks is a wide variety of other inspiring green spaces. The Iveagh Gardens in Dublin city, for example, is a hidden gem. It is a unique place, explains Donal Raynor, head gardener of the park that was designed by Ninian Niven in 1865, a quirky blend of English, Italian and French designs. Bring a picnic, take a walk and enjoy the atmosphere. That is what the gardens are all about. From the city centre to Irelands most remote outposts in the west, there is a park for everyone. Every day people enjoy hiking and running, cycling and kayaking, fishing and hunting, driving and climbing, camping and orienteering ... and, of course, birdwatching. It will be exciting to watch the parents try to scoop a fish from the lakes as they hunt to feed the youngsters, Frank says. It will also be exciting to see the newly fledged chicks come to terms with the prevailing winds and take their maiden flight.
For more information on Irelands national parks visit npws.ie.

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Clare Bromley

Education Co-ordinator, Glenveagh National Park, Co Donegal

The park is important for conservation because it tells a story that connects the past, present and future, explains Clare. The formation of the landscape, peoples presence here through the ages, and the changing diversity of flora and fauna all weave a picture that highlights Donegals rich cultural and natural heritage. A sprawling wilderness of 170 square kilometres, Glenveagh National Park is home to several iconic species as diverse as the golden eagle and freshwater pearl mussel, as well as having a key role in helping to develop policy on the sustainable use of Irelands upland. Last year 120,000 visitors flocked there. It sounds like a real clich, says Clare, but there cant be many people whove failed to be touched by this special place. Clare, who studied Youth and Childrens Work at the University of Ulster and Environmental Studies with the Open University, has worked at Glenveagh for six years. With a small team of staff and volunteers, she runs a service teaching school children about nature and wildlife in the park. Im passionate about what I do, says Clare, a mother of two. Teaching and inspiring children to love our landscape and protect our natural world is crucial. Theres a real buzz in the work we do. My advice to visitors would be to come and walk. Bring a good pair of boots, a coat and enjoy the trails and paths, gardens and hills. The best spot is at the top of the View Point Trail. You can see for miles around.
glenveaghnationalpark.ie

people

Donal Raynor

The Gardener, The Iveagh Gardens, Dublin

The head gardener of The Iveagh Gardens, Donal Raynor, is recovering after a long day. Yesterday we had more than 5,000 children in the garden, playing, watching magicians, having picnics and were still cleaning up, he says with a happy smile. A good time was had by all. Horticulturalist Donal, who studied at the National Botanic Gardens, has worked in the gardens for eight years and thoroughly enjoys the walking and talking tours with children. When it comes to planting trees, he adds, Its best to do it when youre a child as youll get the benefit of them! Designed in 1865, and tucked away behind the National Concert Hall, Donals verdant workplace is full of surprises. No two days are ever the same, he says. It never gets boring. As the weather changes, the job changes. There is also a very busy programme of events for which to prepare with both music and theatre events such as, in July, Damien Dempsey and Josh Ritter (see page 136), and from August 8-18, Fortunes Fool Productions performing Free Shakespeare. September is Donals favourite month as the weather is still good, the leaves are changing colour and everyone is winding down for winter, but the spring is also beautiful. The first buds appear on the chestnuts in January and I wait for them to pop into life, he says. I keep an eye on them every day, waiting for them to explode like champagne bottles. Or fireworks.
heritageireland.ie/en/dublin/ theiveaghgardens

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July 2013

VISIT THE WATERFORD CRYSTAL

FACTORY
A magical journey through 200 years of crystal making history. Book your tour online today www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
Guided Factory Tour | Opulent Retail Store | The Worlds largest collection of Waterford Crystal House of Waterford Crystal | The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland P +353 (0)51 317 000 | E houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com | W www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
Join us on

Follow in the footsteps of your heroes by taking a look behind the scenes at Aviva Stadium... A tour of Aviva Stadium is a fantastic way to discover more about the iconic home of Irish rugby and football.
This unmissable tour of Aviva Stadium will lead you into areas that are only accessible to the players and ofcials on match days. This privileged inside view of one of the worlds nest and most technologically advanced stadiums is an experience you will never forget.

Stadium tours are open all year around, 7 days a week, excluding event day. Pre booking is advised.

Book now, email tours@avivastadium.ie or phone +353 (0)1 238 2300.

people

Meda Downey

Craft Gardener, Victorian Walled Kitchen Garden, Phoenix Park, Dublin

Summer is a lovely time to visit the walled kitchen garden, says Meda. All the fruit trees and vegetables are so full. But, she adds seriously, Id recommend you visit six times over the year so you can appreciate all the changes and see how long it takes for everything to grow. The two-and-ahalf acre garden was originally part of the kitchen garden of Ashtown Demesne and it can be seen on maps dating from 1838. In 2006 a restoration process began. Meda, who looks after the herbaceous borders, the orchards and the wide variety of vegetables that often end up in the kitchens of the visitors centre, has spent six years helping to bring it back to its former glory. The glasshouse, which was designed by Jacob Owen in 1854, is next to be restored, Meda says, clearly excited by the prospect. It wont be heated but we will be able to grow vines, peaches, melons The public can meet the gardeners on the second Saturday of each month to find out about soil preparation, plant propagation, crop growing, herbaceous plants and much more. Some of the children who visit the garden dont even realise that Brussels sprouts grow on a stalk, or that carrots grow in the ground, says Meda, who studied at the National Botanic Gardens. So the garden is as much about education as it is about pleasure.
phoenixpark.ie/visitorinformation/ victorianwalledkitchengarden

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July 2013

DUBLIN INSPIRES:
BUSINESS CONFIDENCE
Google, Intel, IBM, Emirates, Microsoft, Accenture, Oracle, PwC and Teradata are some of the most dynamic giants of todays business world. They all share a relentless commitment to innovation, service and excellence. So its not surprising that theyve hosted events somewhere with an identical attitude: The Convention Centre Dublin. The CCD distils all the forward-thinking attitudes that now make Dublin so attractive to world-class businesses like Facebook, Kelloggs, Pfizer plus many others. And in less than three years since we opened our doors, this professionalism has won us no less than 22 industry awards. Located in Dublins rejuvenated docklands home to many of the capitals most progressive companies The CCD has 18,500 hotel rooms nearby, Dublin Airport only 15 minutes away and one of Europes most vibrant cities on its doorstep. So if you want a world-class venue for your next event, visit www.theccd.ie today. Youll soon see why weve inspired such confidence in some very inspiring companies.

Contact our Sales Team on: T: +353 1 856 0000 E: sales@theccd.ie W: www.theccd.ie

people

Frank McMahon

District Conservation Officer National Parks and Wildlife Service, Killarney National Park, Co Kerry
From seals and landowners worried about damage caused by deer, to hen harriers and trying to control the spread of rhododendron, I have to deal with anything, says Frank McMahon. As with all jobs there are days when things dont go your way but the satisfaction of working in the great outdoors with nature outweighs them all. Frank manages nine conservation rangers and advises on a wide variety of conservation issues protecting habitat and species, survey work and enforcing wildlife legislation. The Killarney park is designated under the EU Birds and Habitats Directive as both a Special Area of Conservation (habitats and species) and a Special Protection Area (bird life); it is one of UNESCOs 127 Biosphere Reserves that combine nature conservation and sustainable development. Not only does the park now boast Irelands first native-born white-tailed sea eagles, it has an incredibly diverse countryside wild mountains, lakes teeming with fish and ancient woodland that is a haven for red squirrel, badger, pine marten, stoat, sika deer and the long-eared owl. Visitors also flock to see Muckross House and Gardens (a lakeside Victorian mansion that also has three traditional working farms linked by a free coach service), Torc Waterfall, Ross Castle, Muckross Abbey and Innisfallen. There are challenges managing such large numbers as we have to balance providing top-class facilities while ensuring habitats and species are not negatively impacted upon.
killarneynationalpark.ie

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July 2013

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people

Denis Strong

Deputy Regional Manager, National Parks & Wildlife Service

Denis shakes his head and peers at the spreadsheet on the desk in front of him. Thats the problem with being in management, he jokes. But I can see the real reason I do this job through my office window: Slievemore Mountain is rising over Achill Island. Its a wild and beautiful place. Ballycroy National Park, 11,000 hectares of Atlantic blanket bog and mountainous terrain tucked away in northwest Mayo, was only established in 1998. And Denis, who started as a ranger in 1990 and is now a deputy regional manager, helped with the land acquisition. Denis is clearly proud of Ballycroy a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) and Special Protection Area (SPA) which is a haven for white-fronted geese, golden plover, merlin, otters and many other species. Denis, who is also responsible for Connemara National Park (CNP), has a challenge to attract more people to enjoy the place. CNP is very well known and last year attracted 160,000 people to the visitor centre but Ballycroy is more remote. Last year, 16,400 people came to our new visitor centre, which is a great start. They do pond dipping and coastal walks, which are proving very popular. We have also built paths so families and school children can get an insight into the delicate bog system without causing damage, he adds. Its a balance between encouraging people to discover more about this fascinating place and not interfering with the delicate ecosystems and wildlife.
ballycroynationalpark.ie

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July 2013

DEEPWELL
blackrck cunty dublin IRELAND

people

Emma Glanville

Conservation Ranger, Burren National Park, Co Clare

The Burren National Park is the best example of limestone and karst habitat in Ireland and the best example of a glacio-karst landscape in the world. Shaped by both glaciers and the effects of rainwater erosion, it is often barren Burren coming from the Irish word Boreaan, which means rocky place but, during the summer months it thrives with flora and fauna. I love the summer, when the rich grasslands are full of flowers from all over the world, says Emma, who has worked in the Burren for twelve years, after having studied Agricultural and Environmental Science. She monitors the protected areas, surveys protected species, liaises with farmers to maintain grazing levels and helps to manage visitor access. The Burren is a wonderful place for tourists but its power to educate is also taken very seriously. Its a very important outdoor classroom with environmental, geological, archaeological and cultural importance, Emma says. People travel from all over the world to learn in the Burren landscape. The Burren is a special place to visit all year round, but Emma says the summer is special. The floral outburst is fantastic, she explains. And with the warmer days come the dragonflies, the butterflies, the bumble bees, the brightly coloured moths and the stripy caterpillars; the bats come out of hibernation and feed off the insects. You might catch a glimpse of a stoat or jump out of your skin as a hare dashes from its hiding place..
burrennationalpark.ie

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July 2013

Photographed by Steve Ryan, assisted by Eoin Dunphy. Hertz Car Rental : Cara would like to thank Hertz for their assistance. For best car rental deals, visit aerlingus.com and click on the Hertz icon, or call reservations from Ireland on 01 813 3844.

the castle | the lodge | the old stable mews

A rural retreat in the heart of Ireland...

estled on 1,000 acres of undulating Irish countryside, dotted with ancient woodlands and glittering lakes, Castle Leslie Estate is one of the last great Irish estates still in the hands of its founding family. Steeped in history, full
Castle Leslie Estate offers an idyllic setting for outdoor activity and adventure. Explore the Estate on horseback, enjoy some of Irelands finest coarse fishing, take in a movie at our private cinema, luxuriate in a relaxing massage in the Victorian treatment rooms, exhilarate in a abundance of outdoor adventures, or just borrow a pair of wellies from our boot room and go for a stroll on our 1,000 acres just some of the choices that await you in this hidden corner of Ireland.

of character and charm, it is the ultimate Irish rural escape.

Only 80 minutes from Dublin and 60 minutes from Belfast, Castle Leslie Estate boasts a variety of accommodation and activities to suit all tastes. The Castle, at the heart of the Estate, offers authentic original interiors and old-style hospitality and is a complete respite from the world. The Lodge is the social hub of the Estate, a country house boutique hotel that and brings locals and guests together in an atmosphere of conviviality and comfort. The Old Stable Mews and Village Cottages are the perfect spot for groups that want the convenience of hotel living combined with private self catering.

Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough, Monaghan t: + 353 47 88 100 www.castleleslie.com

City break | dublin

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July 2013 2013 April/MAy

Dublin is closing in on Berlins reputation for Euro-cool. Arbiters of hip, Ciaran Walsh and Michael McDermott, highlight whats happening and best in the city right now. Photographs by Matthew Thompson.

Cool

Capital

This page, the Spire of Dublin pierces the ether; left, style watch, Amber Rowan at Indigo & Cloth.
April/MAy July 2013

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City break | dublin

ublin is perfectly small. Despite its city status, it can feel more like a village at times. This has its advantages: its easy to navigate, theres a distinct chance of stumbling upon something interesting and there is a high density of characters more than willing to barter in banter. Youd imagine that this gene puddle of city life would have few secrets. But youd be wrong. For Dublin is constantly changing, evolving, popping up, getting down and any guidebook that purports to know the best the city has to offer is already out of date as soon as its published. So what is the best of Dublin at this moment in time? Lets start with the basics ... In Ulysses, Leopold Bloom mused that [a] good puzzle would be [to] cross Dublin without passing a pub. But how to separate the wheat

from the chaff, or the hops from the hotspots? When imbibing in Dublin, whether its to quench a sunkissed thirst or just to tarry for a fragrant hour the new, socially energised Dubliners are frequenting The Hacienda, The Black Sheep and Izakaya. The Hacienda on Little Green Street and beside the fruit and vegetable market in Smithfield, currently one of the most interesting parts of town, is proof that every trend will come around again. Hopelessly stuck in the 1980s, this reprieve from identikit flockedwall bars has an undeniable charm that stems from its unexpected set up as a Spanish country house, stuccoed walls and all. To enter you must ring the doorbell and

Clockwise from top, The Fumbally attracts a creative crowd; Shay from The Hacienda; Michael McDermott and Ciaran Walsh from LeCool reveal the best of the city.

hope that it is open for business. Once safely ensconced inside, marvel at the photos you mustnt miss the collection of Matthew McConaughey shots and wonder how did owner Shay create this Aladdins Cave of paraphernalia? From old copper diving helmets to a jukebox that is stuck in 1985, the

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July 2013

gogarty
Temple Bar, DuBlin

oliver st John

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City break | dublin

Hacienda oozes kitsch cool. The trend for craft beers and microbreweries is burgeoning in the capital too. Peoples palates are becoming finely attuned to headier flavours and drink as a genuine point of conversation is being pioneered by the Galway Bay Brewery with its pubs The Black Sheep on Capel Street, Against The

Grain on Camden Street and The Brew Dock on Amiens Street. In April, Ryan Skelton laid the foundations for what has become the club du jour. Together Disco (28 Eden Quay, Dublin 1) is a paean to New York SteP On disco and the unfiltered joys of wanting to Philosopher Ludwig dance all night long. Wittgenstein lived in Dublin for

With a cut-out-and-keep look that could grace the fashion pages of a street-style bible in any world capital, Skeltons imprint is his own image. His face is on the posters, the stickers, the fliers. He and his crew glitterball a non-descript pub called The Pint into a Paradise Garage for these sometimes shivery, sometimes sultry, summer nights. a period in the late 1940s and was I want to create an a frequent visitor to the national atmosphere similar to the botanic Gardens (Glasnevin, Dublin heyday of clubs, for all walks 9), where his favourite stoop in one of of life, from all estates, for the hothouses has been engraved all genders and benders, says with his name. If you are looking Ryan. Its all about the mix for mental inspiration, try of people, style, sexuality, age Wittgensteins step. and dancing. Lets bring the good times back! Meanwhile the good times and Clockwise from top left, on the beats keep spinning with heightened sauce at The Black panache in Izakaya (12/13 South Sheep; Yannick Great Georges Street, Dublin 2, Van Aeken and 01 645 8001; yamamoriizakaya.ie), Louise Bannon at Nede; Avril a late-night haunt in the basement Kirrane of The of Japanese sushi outfit Yamamori. Vintage Kitchen; From the tasteful Oriental allure Brenda Kearney of its decor to its classic cocktail serving up lunch at selection, its seductive entrapment The Fumbally. has resulted in the owners opening Tengu Bar over in their sister restaurant on the quays. The food scene continues to flourish and the hungry visitor has a host of exciting, top-notch eateries to select from. The stars of the scene in the last 12 months; 777, Fade Street Social, Damson Diner, The Fumbally and Las Tapas de Lola have been joined by a more eclectic array of competitors. The Vintage

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July 2013

Stay at ...
CUTTING EDGE Delayed by the economic wibbly-wobblys, The Marker Hotel (Grand Canal Square, Docklands, Dublin 2, 01 687 5100; themarkerhoteldublin.com) is now open for business and boasts spectacular city views from its rooftop. This chequerboard, five-star hotel, designed by Portuguese architect Manuel Aires Mateus, is chic, sophisticated and superbly located. Rooms from 149. BOUTIQUE Smack bang in the centre of the action, the boutique Kellys Hotel (35-37 South Great Georges Street, Dublin 2, 01 648 0010; kellysdublin.com) nails location. With its accompanying No Name Bar and the culinary staple that is lGueuleton, finding reason to take in the air outside might be your biggest challenge. Rooms from 79. OLD SCHOOL In a slightly grittier part of the city, The Townhouse (47-48 Lower Gardiner Street, Dublin 1, 01 878 8808; townhouseofdublin. com) is a strikingly affordable upbeat alternative. In situ since 1978, it has been something of a best-kept secret until recently. Rooms from 68. BUDGET Astutely spotting a gap in the market for a hostel with visual appeal and attitude, The Generator Hostel (Smithfield Square, Dublin 7, 01 901 0222; generatorhostels.com) is adding some much-needed energy to this public square, formerly an open market. There is also the occasional weekend late-nighter when the local club kids come home to play. Beds from 9 per night.

Left, Katie Sanderson from Living Dinners; below, relaxing at Kellys Hotel.

Kitchen (7 Poolbeg Street, Dublin 2, 01 679 8705; thevintagekitchen.ie) is currently unbeatable in the food and value stakes. With two courses for 25 and a no corkage BYOW (Bring Your Own Wine) policy as well as a BYOV (Bring Your Own Vinyl) if youre that way inclined, its little surprise that advance bookings are now needed. The venerable restaurant that was Eden has flipped its name and relaunched as Nede (Meeting House Square, Temple Bar; nede. ie). Partners Louise Bannon and Yannick Van Aeken bring a wealth of experience, most notably gleaned from long stints in Noma in Copenhagen, to this new venture. The menus reflect both seasonal availability and their local foraging instincts. Nedes concept will be using local Irish products and will

reflect the flavours and produce of the countryside, farms and seas of Ireland, explains Louise. The best seaweed we tasted is in the west, in Spiddal, and we will drive out there to get it. Katie Sandersons Living Dinners (087 387 4028; lovelivingdinners. com) is the stone-cold, raw food pop-up to which everyone is trying to get a ticket. Born in Hong Kong and having worked in kitchens in various capacities for a number of years, Katie sharpened her healthy food skills in Oklahoma and Santa Monica last year before returning to Dublin. Having hosted a number of these in the elegantly-dilapidated Georgian splendour of No. 31, Henrietta Street, Katie is intending to go elsewhere in the city with the likes of the National Botanic Gardens on her wish list. For lots of

July 2013

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City break | dublin

Dont miss ...

Who cares about leopard-print pillbox hats when you can go to the tropical Popical nail bar (28 South William Street, Dublin 2, 01 675 3569; tropicalpopical.com) and get a saucy leopard-print manicure? Sip on your Lilt in a hollowed-out pineapple, relax and enjoy your lunch-hour holiday. They said it could never be done. They said that the rains would come. But the people at Open air Cinema did it (086 823 5883; happenings.ie). Somehow, Mother Nature gives the precipitation a rest every now and then, and Fitzwilliam Square becomes an outdoor cinema. What better way to celebrate nature in the city? urban Farm (26 Kings Inns Street, Dublin 1, 086 196 8720; www.urbanfarm. ie) atop The Chocolate Factory is aiming to be the first of its kind in Dublin. Live hens, more than 200 types of potato and a focus on intensive urban growing techniques make this Irelands highest, and strangest, farm. Underneath this horticultural haven, various artists and musicians enjoy studio space.

Clockwise from right; photogenic, ngel Luis Gonzlez Fernndez; Andrea Horan, the dynamo behind Tropical Popical; Grogans Castle Lounge on South William Street, a popular haunt for thirsty creatives.

people its scary having no diary but word of mouth diar has really helped. Its also ha important that weve been im documenting the nights do so people can visualise whats on offer and the wh atmosphere, she says. at When you are sufficiently fed and su watered, its time to wa nourish the soul. Heres nou where Dublins culture wh scene comes in and July serves up three slightly off-radar festivals. As photography fast becomes our favourite form of personal expression, the professionals are allowed to take over during the PhotoIreland Fair ( photoireland. org), which returns for its fourth year. This celebration of life through the lens is run by ngel Luis

Gonzlez Fernndez, a Spaniard who calls Dublin home. The focus here is on both Irish and international photography and it plays off the success of Dublins Gallery of Photography and Photographic Archive (who face each other across Meeting House Square in Temple Bar) while also tapping into the success of the MFA in Photography course in Belfast. Ireland may be positioning itself as Europes tech hub, but it is producing photographic work that can hold its head up worldwide. We are working on a ten-year plan, says ngel. Our goal is to make people see photography in a different way. One highlight of PhotoIreland, which also takes place in Cork and Limerick, will be the return of the Book and Magazine Fair (July 11-14). While

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July 2013

GJJLOUGHBOY
lKe,~'s ~.,tAl~
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THEGJ)\ERRY

Dublin's Must-See Traditional Dinner &Show

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City break | dublin

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July 2013

the Book of Kells, Marshs Library and Chester Beatty Library enjoy (deserved) fame among bibliophiles worldwide, here you can browse over 700, modern, full-colour titles from around the world, without the dustiness of leather-bound, historical volumes. Beyond the zine scene, the 10 Days in Dublin arts festival (July 4-13; 10daysindublin.ie) has a catch-all quality that is both endearing and entertaining. Billed as Irelands only open-format festival, it welcomes an unlimited range of acts; a heady hotch-potch of drama, comedy, fringe and art. Having made the transition to Hanover Quay last year, the Kings of Concrete

festival is back (July 26-28; kingsofconcrete.com) celebrating urban sub cultures like skateboarding, street art and Parkour as well photography, film-making, music and more. Their year-round space, Mabos, is frequently used for exhibitions, workshops, oneoff showcase gigs and parties, they even host a table-tennis club. And its advance monthly membership and BYOB policy allows revellers to push the clocks forward on a weekend night. For those interested in shopping, Dublins offering has strengthened recently. For the men, there really is only one destination Indigo & Cloth (9 Essex Street East, Temple Bar, 01 670 6403; indigoandcloth.com). Recently indigoa relocated from its blink-andreloca youll-miss-it basement on South you William Street, this store, which Will specialises in exclusive menswear, spec has now opened in Temple Bar. In a sign of the new, fearless Dublin, Indigo & Cloth now Du

This page, ab above, music on Coppinger Row; Co left, exclusive lines at Indigo & Cloth; below, Mabos Dave Smith; Opposite page, Op Meeting House Me Square, home to the Gallery of Photography and Nede. restaurant.

among the younger CITY BIKES While fix-gear bikes are de rigueur sport playing cards in Dublin set, watch out for bike messengers who out as champions the spokes of their wheels. This card marks them the city annually. of the underground city races that take place in
July 2013

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City break | dublin

also houses a fully functional creative studio and coffee shop. In their spare time, owner Garrett Pitcher and creative director Keith Nally also have a hand in a fashion free-sheet called Thread magazine; if you are in a place that stocks it, you can be sure that you are no more than three metres away from a local hipster. For women, the rise of the pop-up boutique satisfies the urge for unique clothing that the high street cannot provide. The best examples being The Loft Market (Powerscourt Shopping Centre; theloftmarket.com) and Tamp & Stitch (Scarlet Row, Essex Street West, Temple Bar, 01 515 4705), which also hosts food nights, but for a unique experience, it must be the Ferocious Mingle Marcade (72 Thomas Street, Dublin 8). The brainchild of the Edwardian-

attired Eamonn A Mooney and jewellery designer and artist Rainey J Dillon, the marcade will lock you in its sparkly jaws and not let go. Not that youd want it to. Imagine a Victorian revue with great coffee, and youre halfway to imagining the

Above left, Josie Baggley Companys Rainey J Dillon and Eamonn A Mooney at their weird and wonderful Ferocious Mingle Marcade; below, hip womenswear emporium Tamp & Stitch.

madness that awaits. Im addicted to Victoriana and Edwardian style. Its all about atmosphere in our eclectic bazaar, gushes Eamonn. The stalls bring a flavour of the souk to Dublins heartland, offering everything from vintage threads to pies. There are few other places where you can stock up on vinyl and then get a reading from a psychic. In all, Dublin is closing in on Berlins reputation for Euro-cool. There is a swirling, creative frisson that is inspiring the new cultural agenda and reshaping the landscape. On the surface, Dublin still enjoys a reputation where fun and people drive the experience but scratch under that, even just a little, and live like a local to check the pulse of an alive and amplified place. It may be small but you can still have a capital time.
LeCool is a free weekly magazine featuring a selection of cultural events and activities. It is distributed as a graphic e-mail every Thursday around noon; dublin.lecool.com

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July 2013

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seekers
LE ChiC

Where do Parisians track down their chic little bargains? In vintage boutiques, thats where. Amanda Cochrane goes on a vintage shopping tour and bags some Gallic style for herself. Photographs by Ailbhe ODonnell.

This page, the eclectic interior at Chine Machine; left, sitting pretty the effortlessly cool Parisienne.

Shopping | pariS

Clockwise from far left, iconic Parisian signage; Amanda Cochrane in vintage heaven; By Flowers owner Paul Cohen; window shopping la Franaise.

love Father Ted. I love Im with the very charming Ireland, says Paul fashionista and designer Brune Cohen, the jovial Colnat-Derhy of Localers (localers. owner of By Flowers com), a specialist tour company that in Montmartre, organises bespoke guides of Paris. when he discovers Im in Paris For 69 per person for a group to do some vintage shopping. of four, Brune will give me a on tour You must let me give you three-hour, personal vintage Whatever your passion a dress. Please, have a shopping tour and help food, wine, fashion Localers look around and choose me to discover la vrai offers the inside track to Paris. We something youd like. Montmartre. love the idea of a walking tour led by Its a tiny little shop a photographer. For 79pp for four but stuffed full with (which includes a coffee at the start rail upon rail of floral and a cheeky drink at the end), you vintage dresses each get an alternative view of the city one only 15 and and pics to remember it piles of denim shirts, an by; localers.com assortment of jackets and funky handbags and belts. But, ever the interiors junkie, the first thing I spot is an old, Murano glass, pink and white vase lurking on top of a pile of old leather suitcases. Everything is for sale, Paul says with a grin. You can have it for 10. I examine it closely. Its a real beauty but too heavy to carry home so, reluctantly, I put it back and delve into the racks of floral frocks. I find a green, white and blue 1950s number with that certain je ne sais quoi. I hold it up, give a little twirl, and imagine it cinched at the waist with a big brown leather belt. It looks magnifique, Paul purrs. Its a present from Paris. Vintage shopping in Paris can be a wild goose chase but, after just half an hour, Ive uncovered a gem. Its not down to pure chance.

A true local, Brune lives in Montmartre and loves the area. Until recently she co-owned a boutique with a friend, which today is one of the districts many vintage stores. Its a pity, she says, but we couldnt make it work. Brune, who studied sculpture at Glasgow and later attended the Parisian fashion

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Insiders guide to Paris

Irishwoman Carra Sutherland Olagnon has been living in Paris for more than 20 years. Formerly the head of international press for Ungaro, five years ago she set up CSO Conseil, which looks after a diverse range of clients from Chic Outlet Shopping, ranging from discount shopping outlets La Valle and Kildare Village, to Trudie Styler and Scabal Savile House. She says she inherited her love of fashion from her father, who would only ever wear Savile Row shirts. I am a regular (at least once a week!) at Ma Cocotte restaurant (106 Rue des Rosiers, +33 1 4951 7000; macocotte-lespuces.com) in the St Ouen flea market. Recently opened and designed by Philippe Starck, you feel as if you are in the Meatpacking District in New York. It has a great atmosphere and trendy

with Carra Sutherland Olagnon of CSO Conseil

crowd (Tom Ford was spotted there a few weeks ago) with delicious food, wonderful service and huge terraces so great when the sun is shining. My favourite Parisian shopping area is La Valle Village, just 30 minutes from central Paris. Theyve got over 120 international fashion brands, selling last seasons pieces at amazing prices in a village atmosphere. It is the best place to find timeless pieces, such as a beautiful Burberry trench, a handbag from Celine, the perfect dress at Valentino, killer heels from Jimmy Choo and even fragrances from the famous French parfumeur Annick Goutal (my fave is Eau dHadrien). Theres something for everyone; my husband is hooked, too, as are my stepkids and I buy all my sons clothes there. I am a huge fan of

pachaMara accessories, which are sold in a very cool concept store on rue Bonaparte called The Space. France Maze, the designer of PachaMara, is a personal friend, and her belts are to die for. I often go directly to the PachaMara showroom in Neuilly-sur-Seine as well, to pick up some of the fabulous boho chic bracelets and necklaces. My favourite spot for vintage shopping is Didier Ludot in the Jardin du Palais Royal. Its pretty amazing. Youll find some fabulous vintage couture such as Balmain, and Givenchy pieces and the setting is divine.

school ESMOD, speaks excellent English. She has been working with Localers for nearly a year and clearly enjoys her job. Im usually asked to do more straightforward fashion tours, she says, but I love vintage shopping and this is a real treat for me. Walking around Montmartre with Brune is an eye-opener, as she knows the area and the locals intimately. We bump into TraVEL Tip an old acquaintance, the A carnet of ten tickets charming opera singer and for 13.30, available at metro comedian Fleur Mino, stations and tobacconists, is who is perfectly dressed valid on the metro, RER, bus and head to toe in vintage and tram within central Paris and is a happily poses for a quick simpler and more economical snap. way to get around than Back in By Flowers we buying individual tickets are in the mood for a spree at 1.70 a pop. and start digging through the huge selection of floral dresses. Paul opened his shop seven years ago. I love it, he says with a grin. I travel all over from the US to Austria and Belgium looking for stuff from the 1940s, 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. He has a discerning eye and is quick to spot Brunes outfit, a funky, blue and green number and one of her own designs from unairdebrune.com. Hes interested in stocking her range and asks Above right, flirty frocks at Didier for her card. A dress apiece for Ludot. Left, photographer Ailbhe, Brune and bonnes amies, I, we all leave the shop feeling performing artist pretty chipper. Fleur Mino and The next two hours are spent Localers tour guide, Brune in a whirlwind, from the stinky Colnat-Derhy. basement of La Caverne Frippes,

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where I find myself humming the opening bars to The Thrift Shop song, to the secondhand designer clothes by brands such as APC and Paul & Joe in La Boutique Noire. On to Chine Machine. Brune shakes her head looking doubtful. This shop is pretty touristy, she says. Oh lets have a quick gander, I say, and ten minutes later I see Brune smiling. These would cost 400 new, she says and is soon the happy owner of a pair of red Repetto sandals in mint condition. I stop taking notes and start rifling for bargains in earnest. I try on a black and white dress, which has great hanger appeal but once on looks truly hideous. Unperturbed, I keep poking around and find a green, sleeveless cardigan for 5. Its very pretty and will look fabulous with my new floral dress. For my vintage-loving daughter Florence

Left, a typical Parisian terrace. Right, pretty silk slips at Au Fil d'Elise. Below, nouveau Modernism at Hotel Thrse.

Fashion-friendly places to stay in Paris

BUDgET If youre looking for a stay thats cheap, cheerful and chic, check out La Maisonette in the 10th Arrondissement. A former leather workshop in the courtyard of an old convent, it has been polished into a little jewel of a spot. Plus it's close to the fashion folks haunts a short walk from the ateliers of the big fashion houses, and just round the corner from Cour et Passage des Petites Ecuries where everyone goes for a post-work aperitif. Room from 100 per night, holidaylettings.co.uk. A berets throw from the Louvre and Le Palais Royal, hotel Thrse (5/7, Rue Thrse, +331 4296 1001; hoteltherese.com) couldnt be better located. Its comfortable, high quality interiors throw a nod to Modernism, and theres free Wi-Fi. Rooms from 124 per night. MiD-rangE The latest offering of Htels Paris Rive Gauche, the four-star La Belle Juliette (92 Rue du Cherche Midi, +331 4222 9740; hotelbelle-juliette-paris.com) is just a skip away from Le Bon March and the excellent shopping and eateries of St Germain. Discreet, charming and a fiveminute walk from the Jardin du Luxembourg a great spot for a summer picnic. Rooms from 190 per night and there is even a mini swimming pool and spa in the basement. Often compared to NYCs West Village, the Marais is chock-full of hip bars, restaurants, boutiques and cafs. Le Mareuil (51 Rue de Malte, +331 4700 7876, hotelmareuil.com) is at its heart, a four-star boutique hotel thats contemporary in design and resplendent with a hammam. Rooms from 159 per night. SpLUrgE For excellent views of the Eiffel Tower, and a stroll away from the luxury boutiques of Avenue Montaigne and Avenue George V, head to the five-star Shangri-la (10 Avenue dlna, +331 5367 1998; shangri-la.com). The former home of Napoleon Bonapartes nephew, it combines old-world charm with modern comfort. Make time for a cocktail in the cosy Le Bar or overindulge in the Michelin-starred Shang Palace. From 810 per night for the Summer in Paris offer which includes an amazing breakfast. Palatial hotel Scribe (1 Rue Scribe, +331 4471 2424; hotel-scribe.com) is the former home of the aristocratic jockey club, where the Lumire brothers world-premiered the cinematograph. It now has a Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Lumire. Rooms from 414 per night.

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shopping | paris

I pounce on a pair of electric blue Converse booties almost brand new theyre a snip at just 10. We ask the louche-looking shop assistant, whos sporting the most fabulous pout, if we can take some pictures. Oh sure, take some shots of the shop, but you cant take my photo, says the assistant with a dismissive toss of hair. Whatever, darling. A couple of hours later Brune has to head off albeit reluctantly as shes up for more bargain hunting and would have happily shown

us more places. She suggests a half dozen more shops in the area for us to check out, including Foxden, Pauls second shop, which opened a couple of weeks ago. We wander around this cool area bursting with fantastic stores and unusual boutiques, including Paperdolls, owned by Englishwoman Candy Miller. A really lovely atelier, selling

Vintage shops by arrondissement

1st arrondissement didier Ludot, 24 Galerie Montpensier Jardin du Palais Royal, +33 1 4296 0656; didierludot.fr Wild road, 2 Rue Francisque, Sarcey, +33 7 8551 4239 2nd arrondissement episode, nearest metro Etienne Marcel, 12-16, Rue de Tiquetonne, +331 4261 1465; episode.eu espace Kiliwatch, 64 Rue Tiquetonne, +33 1 4221 1737; espacekiliwatch.fr 3rd arrondissement Losing today, 14 Rue de Bretagne, +33 1 4461 7971 mon amour, nearest metro Filles du Calvaire/Rpublique, 77 Rue Charlot, +33 6 8419 3509; monamourvintage. blogspot.com 4th arrondissement au fil d'lise, closest metro St Paul, 2 Rue de L'Av Maria, 33 1 4804 7561; aufildelise.com Freepstar, nearest metro Saint Paul/ Hotel de Ville, 8 Rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie; +33 1 4276 0372 Fripirium, nearest metro Saint Paul, Rue de la Verrerie, +33 1 4029 9557 hippy market, nearest metro Hotel de Ville, 21 Rue de Temple (they also own Kiliwatch in the 2nd and another Hippy Market in the 1st), + 33 1 6224 6909; hippy-market.fr La Friponne, nearest metro Sully/Morland, 10 Rue de Saint Paul, +33 1 4271 5016; lafriponne.com mamzelle swing, 35 Rue du Roi de Sicile, +33 1 4887 0406; mamzelle-swing.com Vintage desire, nearest metro Saint Paul, 32 Rue de Rosiers, +33 1 4027 0498 9th arrondissement mamie Blue, nearest metro Anvers, 69 Rue Rochechouart, +33 1 4281 1042; mamievintage.com (closed Sundays, Monday morning and lunchtimes) 10th arrondissement thanx god im a Vip, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent, 12 Rue de Lancry, + 331 4203 0209; thanxgod.com Frivoli, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent, 26 Rue Beaurepaire, +33 1 4238 2120 atelier 46, nearest metro Jacques Bonsergent/Chateau dEau, Rue de Chateau dEau, + 33 1 4040 0203 11th arrondissement omaya Vintage, nearest metro Oberkamps, 29 Rue Jean- Pierre Timbaud, +33 1 4201 7731; omaya-vintage.com Come on eileen, nearest metro Breguet/Sabin/Bastille, 216-218 Rue des Taillandiers, +33 1 4338 1211 17th arrondissement guerrisol, nearest Metro Place de Clichy, 19 Avenue de Clichy, +33 1 4008 0300; guerrisol.com 18th arrondissement By Flowers, nearest metro Abbesses/ Anvers, 86 Rue des Martyrs, +33 1 4252 2366 Caverne Fripes, closest metro Pigalle, 25 Rue Houdon, +33 1 4252 6165

Clockwise from top, bygone brights in Thanx God I'm a VIP; Mamie Blue's Elisabeth Valette; Gatsby glamour at Didier Ludot.

Chine machine, nearest metro Abbesses/ Anvers, 100 Rue des Martyrs, +33 1 8050 2766; chinemachinevintage.com Foxden, nearest metro Barbes/Anvers, 5 Rue Pierre Picard, +33 6 5241 1118; foxdenblog.tumblr.com La Billes des gamine, closest metro Abbesses, 60 Rue d'Orsel, +33 6 8320 3775; labillesdelagamine.com La Boutique noire, closest metro Abbesses, 22 Rue la Vieuville, +33 9 5320 4617 paperdolls, closest metro Pigalle, 5 Rue de Houdon, +33 1 4251 2987; paperdolls.fr 19th arrondissement Bric--brac emmas, nearest metro Riquet/Crime, 104 Rue DAubervilliers 20th arrondissement goldymama, nearest metro Pelleport, 14 Rue de Surmelin, +33 1 4030 0800; goldymama.com

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Rest your wheels and legs outside the Louvre, a fantastic spot for street style watching.

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Shopping | pariS

up-and-coming young designers with prices starting at 40 and going up to 300, its affordable and fun and designed to feel like a home from home. Im aiming for a deliberate sense of folie and quirkiness, says Candy, who moved to Paris to do a work placement and never left. Heading back towards Pigalle metro, we discover La Billes de Gamine, a super chic establishment where we find the most gorgeous pair of green pumps by Celine, as well as cool 1950s furniture and stunning clothing by a range of high-end designers including Herms, Dior and Chanel. I dont have a lot, says owner Ccile Mossard in slightly halting English, but what I have is in good condition.

Saturated with the delights of Montmartre, Ailbhe and I decide to head to the Marais in the fourth arrondissement. I have spent a couple of days Googling and have an exhaustive list of shops to check out. Standing in the confusing and narrow streets of the Jewish quarter we consult our Paris guide, wishing we had Brune in tow. After two frustrating hours we discover two shops on my list have closed down, but then spot Mamzelle Swing sporting a beautiful, blush pink prom dress in the window and its a goody. The friendly owner, Brnice, specialises in clothing, shoes and dinky handbags from her favourite eras of the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s. I love swing and rock

Beyond vintage
I stumbled across department store BhV (52 Rue de Rivoli; bhv.fr) a couple of months ago while strolling around the Marais. On first appearances it looks a little scruffy but dont be put off, because once inside youll find the latest designs by leading French brands, including Maje and Claudie Pierlot, and sometimes a great design for a fraction of the price of other department stores. A sucker for French chic and always keen to find a bargain, I often head to the Sandro discount store in the Marais (26 Rue de Svign; sandro-paris.com). Nearby, in the third arrondissement, Im mad about the concept store Merci (111 Boulevard Beaumarchais; merci-merci.com) which is housed in an elaborately reconfigured, 19th-century fabric factory. On three floors, its beautifully designed and youll find gorgeous interiors, including the most amazing range of linens in a rainbow of colours, designer furniture, funky lighting, gorgeous clothing and lots of great gift ideas. However, for me a trip to Paris is not complete without a wander around Le Bon March (24 Rue de Svres; lebonmarche.com) where the exquisite layout ensures that everything feels simply desirable. Theres a huge floor of handbags in all shapes, sizes and budgets bliss and acres of accessories such as glorious hats for doffing or yards of scarves all destined to be flung around the neck with a Gallic shrug.

Left, a blush pink prom dress takes centre stage at Mamz'elle Swing. Right, a handsome vintage car awaiting its suitably fashionable driver in the 11th arrondisement. Below, girl et chien on a motorcycle, Alyx Lottin with Chica.

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promoting traditional and cutting edge design

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Shopping | pariS

ILLUSTRATION BY ANNA SIMMONS

Top, Hippy Market's manager, PiPaul. Middle, Parisian bikes at rest. Bottom, Marie Cazenave at Le Boudoir Marie.

and roll, she says with a swish of her hips. We ask to take her photo but she shakes her head. Mais non. Je suis desole. Not today, I dont look good. Dressed in a natty gingham headscarf, a red, shortsleeve angora sweater, blue A-line skirt and seamed stockings, frankly she looks incroyable and the shop is a gem. Around the corner we arrive at Come On Eileen, which looks scruffy but interesting. It has two floors of rather groovy-looking gear (including lots of fun jewellery and shoes) from what we assume dates back to the 1960s and 1970s but, annoyingly, we cant dig any further because its closed. Hey ho, another day, another bargain, and we move on to the colourful-looking Hippy Market (they also own Espace Kiliwatch in the second arrondissement). Its a stylish and fun shopping environment and the staff is really friendly, but its rammed full of tourists and is priced accordingly. 72 |
July 2013

Our final stop of the day is Vintage Desire, a bit whiffy (a downside of some vintage shops) but if youre feeling brave, it has rock-bottom prices, including dungaree denim shorts for under 10 (similar dungaree shorts cost 39 in Hippy Market). My daughter, who loves to trawl the Portobello Road for pungent vintage bargains (the rule is everything has to go in the wash before it reaches her room), would have a field day. There are more vintage spots in Paris than the most avid shopper can plunder in a day (maybe even a week). I never did make it to Didier Ludot, the famous couture vintage shop in the first arrondissement. But I have my floral frock, I have a pair of Converse for my fashion-mad daughter. And I have a shopping list for my next trip.
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A sure bet

Sin City certainly deserves its ranking as one of the worlds top ten honeymoon destinations, writes Tony Clayton-Lea. But whether youre newly-weds or just there as tourists, youll be royally entertained, day and night.

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xxx

July 2013

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culture | las vegas

y husband always promised to take me to Paris ... and he did, it being a ten-minute walk from the Venetian Hotel, complete with its own Eiffel tower! laughs Colette Cassidy, owner of Dublins Glow make-up and beauty salon, as she fondly remembers the Las Vegas leg of her American honeymoon in February. We also had a lovely dinner in Prime restaurant in the Bellagio, where we had a perfect view of the spectacular water show. And the Cirque du Soleil production, O, was incredible. On the strip the atmosphere was buzzing and just like how I imagined Vegas to be, only bigger and brighter. People either love or hate Vegas but I am glad to say we loved it. Another reassuring aspect of the city for honeymooners, as well as its diversity of entertainment, is the special treatment afforded to

newly-weds, says Colette: Prime gave us a window seat as they knew we were on our honeymoon. Great service, and at the Venetian too. Both points are echoed by Ashli Kimenker, public relations manager at Las Vegass terrifically swish Mandarin Oriental, who reckons that the increase in the number of honeymooners coming to the city is due to hotels tailoring services to suit them. Its partly due to the global recession, she says, but its also partly due to the fact that honeymooners justifiably want more than what Las Vegas, stereotypically, has to offer. Its quite obvious from our own statistics that our guests want more in the line of spa comforts

Clockwise from above, earthly delights on The Strip; the Sphinx guards Luxor Las Vegas; taking a chance with Lady Luck; writer, Tony Clayton-Lea.

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Established 1980

Wedding Venues from the Good to the Odd

Do you promise never to step on your mans blue suede shoes? Do you vow not to leave your woman at Heartbreak Hotel? If the answer to these questions is a heartfelt I do, then a visit to the Graceland Wedding Chapel ( gracelandchapel.com) is a must. Famous as the venue for Elvis Presleys wedding to Priscilla, this wonderful little chapel is owned by American Irishman Brendan Duffy (who is also the chapels resident Elvis impersonator). Another kitsch hitching post is the Viva Las Vegas Wedding Chapel (vivalasvegasweddings.com), a nine times winner of Nevada Magazines Best Wedding Chapel in Southern Nevada award. Here, you can theme your wedding (from pirates and vampires to more than twelve different Elvis themes) in an on-site theatre-style venue, diner or gazebo. If youre searching for something that little bit higher in tone, then exchange your vows in Chapel in the Clouds (chapelintheclouds.com), which is based at the aptly named Stratosphere Hotel that towers over the Strip. Weddings on the hotels Observation Decks (floors 108 and 109) a specialty!

and food. If they want to play the tables, there are enough outside the hotel, on the Strip, to satisfy their curiosity. Honeymooning in Vegas can be segmented into city and rural. Pretty much every hotel in the city offers exclusive honeymoon/bridal suites, justifying its ranking among the top ten honeymoon destinations in the world. And dont think its out of your financial bracket thanks to the masses of money spent by gamblers, the citys room rates and food prices (notably mid-week) are kept relatively low in relation to the high quality accommodation and dining. The real surprise, however, is the discovery of beautiful remoteness from 24 kilometres outside the urban boundaries. One option that most honeymooners take is to divide their days between what the city has to offer (hustle, bustle, noise, parties, casinos and bars) and what the land 78 |
July 2013

beyond it can provide. Certainly, if youre looking for post-wedding diversions, youll find them on the Strip nearly seven kilometres of Las Vegas Boulevard South, which hosts some of the largest casino and resort-hotel properties in the world. Indeed, 15 of the worlds 25 largest hotels by room count are here, so dont be shy to bring some friends along with you. It is on the Strip that you will encounter hotels as impressive (as much in size as style) as the Bellagio, The Venetian/ The Palazzo, The Aria, Mandarin Oriental and Mandalay Bay; it is also on the Strip that you will see mini, yet incredibly accurate, versions of the New York skyline, the Eiffel Tower, the Pyramids and Venice (The Venetian/The Palazzo even has its own canals, gondolas and singing gondoliers). You will also see real-life, freshly minted

Left, it's now or never IrishAmerican owner of Graceland Wedding Chapel, Brendan Duffy; Venice, but not as we know it, at The Venetian.

brides strolling past you, linking arms with their new husbands, and trailed by wedding guests bug-eyed at the sights surrounding them. And there really are sights (surreal, goofy, astonishing) for sore eyes here. Honeymooning in Vegas means that as much as being a loved-up Mr & Mrs couple, youll also be tourists. There is, inevitably, too much to do in too little time, so youll quickly make up your mind

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as to whether the casinos are worth (delete where applicable) spending/ wasting hours/money in. On the one hand, you will never before have seen casinos of such magnitude and scope; on the other, you might also witness people at any amount of gambling tables or gaming machines who really should have gone home days ago. The heart of contemporary Las Vegas lies not only in its exceptionally vibrant nightlife, but also in its food scene, and each is a win-win situation. Every hotel/resort complex has its own theatre and nightlife events, while the range of blend of Las Vegas hipness with restaurants is little short of stunning. New Orleans magic, courtesy Indeed, some of the worlds it's of chef Emeril Lagasse. Blue best chefs have a presence shOwtiMe! Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill here: Gordon Ramsay, One of the most enjoyable at The Cosmopolitan Nobu Matsuhisa, Joel aspects of a stay in Vegas is the Resort Hotel Robuchon, Jean-Georges opportunity to take in a show and (cosmopolitanlasvegas.com) Vongerichten, Pierre experience world class entertainers, is an award-winning and Gagnaire and Emeril musicians, magicians and performers. wonderful sushi/sashimi Lagasse dont so much From jamming with rock group, Yes; castle, overseen by sibling have the food scene to experiencing the inimitable Blue chefs/restaurateurs Eric wrapped up as prepared, Man group, there is something and Bruce Bromberg. cooked, served, eaten, to suit all tastes. For more cleaned and stored away. info, see lasvegas.com Best restaurant tips are dangerously subjective, but we guarantee youll love the following: a perfect choice for a set-you-up breakfast, Citizens Kitchen at Mandalay Bay Resort Dont be scared into thinking you Hotel (mandalaybay.com), is a very Above, night recently remodelled eatery featuring cant afford it as mentioned, midvisions at the chef Brian Massies American week hotel room prices in Las Vegas Mandarin Oriental; comfort food at its best. Table 10 are surprisingly affordable. If youre below, Jean at The Venetian/The Palazzo (www. planning on staying a few nights, Georges Steak venetian.com) delivers a gorgeous take our advice and check out the House.
following, each of which are smackbang in the centre, and are the kind of incredible, stupendous and awe-inspiring properties you thought only existed in the movies. Mandarin Oriental las vegas This sleek, beautifully designed hotel has all bases covered with a range of budgetary options, from lavish to intimate. Rooms from $195. (mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas) the venetian/the Palazzo There is, inevitably, an Italian bias here, which means you can get married by the Palazzo Waterfall, on the Bridge of Love (aka Bridge of

Jean Georges Steak House at Aria Resort Hotel (arialasvegas.com) features a menu overseen/guided by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. There are beautiful interiors here, as well as mouth-watering steaks (served on wobbly plates that resemble molten lava!). A final recommendation is Twist at the Mandarin Oriental Resort Hotel (mandarinoriental.com/ lasvegas), which is overseen by threestar Michelin Chef Pierre Gagnaire.

Best Honeymoon Hotels

Sighs) or have exclusive use of the hotels signature white wedding gondola. Rooms from $149. (www.venetian.com) Mandalay Bay Wedding services here have picked up numerous awards from the likes of Las Vegas Brides magazine, but its also a honeymoon hotspot thanks to an 11-acre man-made beach, private cabanas and beach bungalows for rent, and a luxurious spa. Rooms from $71. (mandalaybay.com) aria resort The Wedding Chapel at this luxurious resort hotel has recently opened, but honeymooners with a penchant for smart design and style can also feel the benefit of its plush pools, spa and hot tubs, and wide variety of restaurants and nightlife. Rooms from $121. (arialasvegas.com)

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I

culture | las vegas

Shopping Guide from Malls to Vintage

Youve come to the right place if you want to shop, shop, shop. The best place on the Strip is Fashion show (thefashionshow.com) a two million (yes, two million!) square foot mall that houses high-end stores (Louis Vuitton, Tiffany & Co, Kenneth Cole), high street brands (Zara, Levis), franchise stores (Macys, Neiman Marcus) and unique boutiques (Free People). Money no problem? Then flex the card at crystals (crystalsatcitycenter. com), which hosts Louis Vuitton (the largest of its stores in the USA), Jimmy Choo, Prada, Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana, to name but several. If youre a fan of bargains from many high street brand names, there are las vegas Premium Outlets North & south (premiumoutlets. com). Each operates a shuttle service from Las Vegas downtown hotels, and each has bargains galore. Lovers of vintage clothing (and of being asked by friends, where did you get that?) are well catered for in las vegas: Fruition las vegas (shop.fruitionlv.com) and Pattys closet (ilovepattyscloset.com) are two stores that cater for out-of-the-ordinary shoppers; Fruition offers vintage and street wear beloved by pop stars Katy Perry and Kanye West, while Pattys Closet has six shops across the Las Vegas valley, each of which receives new clothing shipments every week.

There are, needless to say, many, many more restaurants to choose from. Each one brims with class, style and passion; each highlights a facet of Las Vegas that challenges the perception of the city as a place of vulgar, recession-free excess. Frankly, this is the surprise you never thought youd get here: despite the non-stop parades of bling and neon along the Strip, there is real life and genuine emotion pumping through the veins of Las Vegas. Yet the citys location also makes it the ideal starting point for seeing true wonders of the natural world these include the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park (approx 97 kilometres), Lake Mead (approx 48 kilometres), Valley of Fire State Park (approx 89 kilometres) and Red Rock Canyon (approx 32 kilometres). While the Grand Canyon is the absolute must-see on this 82 |
July 2013

Right, Grand Canyon, a genuinely awesome spectacle. Below, hanging out at Valley of Fire State Park.

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cULtURE | LAS VEGAS

Aer Lingus & Jetblue

From April, all Aer Lingus flights arriving to and departing from New Yorks JFK Airport operate from Terminal 5. While officially referred to as JetBlues T5 (Terminal 5), Aer Lingus has its own dedicated area within the terminal, which allows for smooth check-in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the US and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue flights is reduced to just about one hour. Customers travelling to Ireland will experience JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes. The award-winning T5 offers great features and amenities amid its 5,110 square metres, including 15 security lanes, gates with seats aplenty, free Wi-Fi, a wide variety of great food and shopping outlets, a large childrens play area, and much more.
ILLUSTRATIoN BY ChRIS JUDgE

list, be aware that its about 485 kilometres from the centre. If you have several days pinned down for rest and recreation, then renting a car is a wise option (although if budget is no problem, you can easily get there by chartered helicopter). You might also wish to spend a few nights far away from the bright lights of the Strip. If so, there are all-budget options you can choose via grandcanyonlodges.com. So there you have it: Las Vegas. The Strip. Sin City. One of the worlds top honeymoon destinations. One of the top tourist destinations in the world. Marriage capital of the 84 |
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world. Entertainment capital of the world. Its all these and much, much more. Youd be correct in thinking that gambling at the casinos might be risky, but spending honeymoon time here is a safer than safe bet. I see honeymooning couples at our hotel every day, says Nathaniel Gray, public relations coordinator at The Venetian/The Palazzo, and the one thing they say about Las Vegas is that they wish they had more time to spend here. Well, that and more money ... Final words? Maybe a sign on the Strip says it all: Veni, Vidi, Whoopee!

Above, the impressive Hoover Dam and right, Paris (sort of) by night.

AER LINGUS IN PARTNERShIP WITh JETBLUE FLY FRom DUBLIN To LAS VEGAS , vIA NEW YoRK (JFK) AND BoSToN (LogAN). FARES START FRom 249 e ACh WAY. vISIT AERLINgUS.Com FoR FURThER DETAILS. FoR moRE INFoRmATIoN AND RECommENDATIoNS ABoUT WhAT To Do IN AND ARoUND LAS vEgAS, vISIT LASvEgAS.Com oR CoNTACT ThE Dublin office on 01 631 9640.

et in the heart of Georgian Dublin, on the west side of historic St Stephens Green, award-winning Restaurant FortyOne embodies the best of Modern irish dining. Relish the output from one of the citys most accomplished chefs in smart, comfortable surroundings, while savouring dishes that showcase world-class, gastronomic flair, combined with a desire to let the best of irish produce much of which comes from the restaurants own organic gardens shine. A sumptuous treat for visitors to Dublin looking to experience an unforgettable meal in a highly memorable setting.

RelY On modern saucing techniques to bring a dish together. there are no heavy starch sauces or, for that matter, an over reliance on double cream and fats. Vegetables and fruit juices are produced in our kitchen and grown in our own garden. Using the same principles, i integrate raw vegetables and cooked vegetables in dishes to maximise taste and texture. i want to create an environment which is surprising and inviting, where my food can create dialogue and discussion.

Restaurant FortyOne Head Chef, Graham Neville.

ReSTauRanT FORTyOne iS a Special place DeliveRinG excepTiOnal FOOD in excepTiOnal SuRROunDinGS.

Georgina Campbell, Restaurant of the Year 2012
41 St. Stephens Green, Dublin 2. Open Tuesday to Saturday. For reservations call +353 (0)1 662 0000, www.restaurantfortyone.ie

Catalonia dreaming
Mal Rogers finds he doesnt want to leave the mountains of Catalonia. Photographs by Steve Ryan.

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The Catalan Pyrenees in all their snow-capped, sun-drenched glory.

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t George, patron saint of our nearest neighbours, also showers saintly beneficence on Catalonia, in the north-eastern corner of Spain. From the sculpted ed granite peaks of the Pyrenees to the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean, the third century saint is revered. St Georges Day is duly celebrated, not with the bacchanalian excesses we might associate with many another saint, but in sophisticated, stylish manner. Shops and restaurants are festooned with George-and-Dragons and the day is marked by the buying of books and roses so strong is the custom that 20 per cent of all book sales in the region take place around April 23; presumably the rose trade thrives too. A saintly tradition to be proud of. More serious partying takes place on the feast of Corpus

Top, Berga's theatrical La Patum festival. Above, revellers find characterful methods of celebrating.

Christi in the town of Berga, capital of the spectacular region of Bergued. Most of the year, Berga is a sleepy mountain town, but at Corpus Christi its ancient streets do a passable impersonation of the Rio carnival. During the celebrations, which date back to the 12th century, Bergas population swells many times over, and the fun reaches levels probably well in excess of EU guidelines. La Patum (lapatum.cat), as the festival is called, lasts for five days, and for a celebration based on Corpus Christi, it does seem distinctly pagan. Proceedings begin when the medieval town reverberates with the sound of a huge drum, el tabal, paraded through the tight tangle of alleyways. On successive nights the town square plays host

to parades, pantomime, fireworks, a festival of flares, more fireworks, wine, and people dancing their legs off. The Catalans, you may have gathered, are inveterate party people. Chances are, however, that in heading for this neck of the woods, youre looking for somewhere perhaps a little under the radar of the average tourist. Youre unlikely to be disappointed. Due north from the frolicking and feasting of Berga, lies the town of Bag, traditionally considered the capital of Alt Bergued, a rural area where nature still appears to be in charge. The region once came under the sway, in the 9th century AD, of Wilfred the Hairy hairy in places not normally so in men ... according to contemporaneous annals; make of that what you will. Today there are few reminders of Wilf, unless of course you count the flags. Did

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For enquires email sales@mercantilegroup.ie

Hotel | Bar | Restaurant | Venue

+353 (0)1 670 7100 | www.mercantilehotel.ie

/themercantile @the_mercantile

28 Dame Street, Dublin 2

Located on Dame Street in the heart of historic Dublin stands a building built in 1835 with a rich heritage, which is now home to the welcoming Mercantile Hotel, bar & restaurant.

of Dublin City
beside Temple Bar
One of Ireland's biggest

Located in the heart

Finest Irish food & drink

late night bars Live music daily

Be part of

at The Mercantile

culture | catalonia

Stay at...
SPlurGe One of the finest luxury hotels close to Berga the capital of the region some 40km away is the four star Parador de Vic-Sau, a converted Catalan farmhouse combining rustic charm with an extravagant panorama stretching as far as the snow-capped Pyrenees. Nearby are ancient monasteries, quiet woodland, and villages that, once having lived through tumultuous times, are having a bit of a doze. Double rooms from 164,

although various deals are available. (Paraje el Bac de Sau Ctra. de Tavrnoles, Vic, +34 93 812 2323; parador.es) MiD-ranGe In the heart of the pre-Pyrenean mountain range, can Boix de Peramola Hotel is a

I mention the flags? Forgive me. It seems that the Catalan flags fly from every telegraph pole, government building, henhouse, church everywhere. According to legend, Wilfred had a hand, literally, in their design. Charles the Bald rewarded Wilfreds bravery in battle by giving him a coat of arms. The story goes that the king slid Wilfred's blood-stained fingers over his copper shield, and so was born the distinctive gold and red striped Catalan flag. Wilfred is today buried some 30 kilometres to the west, in the

comfortable rural bolt-hole. Swimming pool, tennis courts and breathtaking views are all part of the deal. The dcor tends towards the rustic, but with style to spare. Double rooms from 99. (Can Boix, +34 97 347 0266; canboix.com)

BuDGet Village-set Hotel casa Duaner takes its eco credentials very seriously. And their claims arent greenwash they really do care about the planet. But the owners are relaxed enough to join you over a bottle of wine (or two) to discuss the best way forward for the earth, or what youd like for dinner, and would you like another glass of wine. Double rooms 43. (Pl. Farga, 10, Guardiola de Bergued, +34 93 822 7672; elrecodelavi.com)

Clockwise from top left, local colour in Bag; the gold and red striped Catalan flag; Catalonia is renowned for its spectacular scenic beauty.

beautiful Benedictine monastery of Santa Maria de Ripoll which remains a perfect little corner of medieval Europe. The flags still fly in Bag, with the town nestling in the shadow of the Pyrenees. Yes, nestling. No other word for it. If towns had to apply for a licence before using the word nestling, Bag would be granted immediate qualification by the inspectors. Arranged around Plaa Porxada, the 13th century central square, the town doesnt look as if much has changed in the 700 years since Wilfred the Hairy and Charles the Bald discussed flags, and possibly hair. Steep, narrow streets lead from the square to dark bars tailor-made for clandestine trysts (and ace tapas). In the near distance, a tolling bell tells you youre nearing the 14th century church of Sant Esteve. Parts of the old wall survive,

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ohnnie Fox's Pub situated in the heart of the Dublin Mountains has it all, a living museum of Irish

History and Tradition where unique pieces 'from old farm implements to Historical aptiquities adorn every wall, nook & cranny. Serving an award winning ala carte menu from 12. 30 until late, with live musicians playing traditional Irish music 7 nights a week, our special kind oflrish welcome is not to be missed.

S
I

ituated only 40 minutes from Dublin City Centre

and 10 minutes from Dundrum or Enniskerry

Villages why not take our private shuttle bus which will collect you from an array of Dublin City or County Hotels operated by ExpressBus.ie \ 01 8221122) for just 10 per person" return''.

Hooley Nights
For a real treat one sho~ld experience the world famous show known as the Johnnie Fox's HOOLEY night which includes the esteemed Johnnie Fox's troop of Irish dancers, live traditional Irish Il}Usic, a full 4 course eyenjng-weal and plenty of great craie ..... at only 49. 95 per person.

A~{\RDWINNING

KITCHEN

~ TRADITIONAL IRISH ENTERTAINMENT

..

CORPORATE EVENTS PRIVATE PARTIES

Johnnie Fox:'"s Pub I Glencullen I Co. Dublin

~ ~ lrelallJ]. IT~t: '(01). 295 564-7.Email: info@jfp.ie

www.jfp.ie

culture | catalonia

1
Above and right, crosses and signs mark the Pyrenean trail. Below, a river rushes through the mountain wilds.

5 Best Things To Do

2 3

Keep your eyes open in the mountains because el Parc natural del cad Moixer (+34 93 824 4151; gen.cat/parcs/cadi) is home to some of the A-listers of the avian and mammalian world. Bearded and Griffon vultures will both check out your health from afar as you walk along, while the likes of eagles, wild cats, wolves and chamois will tend to keep themselves scarce. Wild hog somewhat less so. The Museu de la colonia Vidal de Puig-reig (Carretera C-16, +34 93 829 0458; museucoloniavidal. org) is a fascinating insight into the industrial heritage of the area. The museum is set inside an old mill, with looms, workers flats, company school and company shop still intact. At an altitude of 1,200 metres the llobegrat springs are the spectacular source of one of the

4 5

most important rivers in Catalonia, the Llobregat. In geological terms this is karst spring phenomenon in laymans terms: awesome. Mountain areas have long produced excellent cheese for the simple reason that in days gone by there was no way to get the milk down into the valley during severe weather. This and many other cheesy facts will be imparted to you at the Formatge Bauma cheese factory (La Solano, Borreda, +34 93 823 9064, formatgebauma.com) The Museu del Pastor (Plaa del Castell, Castellar de nHug, +34 93 825 7016, concursgossosgatura.com) will tell you everything youve ever wanted to know about the life of a shepherd and his flock in this corner of Catalonia. Just like wool itself, this place is surprisingy absorbing.

as does the turreted, Romanesque Pont de la Vila (Town Bridge) which crosses the babbling, troutfilled Bastareny River. This is a place that rewards those fond of lingering. Naturally, Bag has its own festival. The Fia-faia is a celebration of the winter solstice dating from pre-Christian times. More fireworks, parades, wine, devilment. But its time to say hasta luego to Bag, although a nonchalant fins desprs! Catalan for missing-youalready! will go down even better. Were headed up the mountains where the air will be thinner and the scenery more vertical. Our destination is the cordillera of the Catalan Pyrenees that poke down into this region specifically El Cad-Moixer Natural Park (+34 93 824 4151, gencat.cat/parcs/cadi), which comes with views guaranteed to give you gooseflesh. The highest peak in the area is the Pedraforca (2,444.8m), and although modest by Pyrenean 92 |
July 2013

standards, thats about two Carrauntuohils on top of each other. Stone Fork in English, it is, apparently, a fairly easy climb but of course these things are relative. Its certainly one of the most photogenic of mountains screensavers ahoy. Several hundred kilometres of hiking trails criss-cross these hills, linking villages with upland meadows. The paths switchback up the valley walls, with pine, fir, maple and beech covering a drop of several hundred feet. Should you slip and fall, have a good look around this is a very interesting habitat, called middle mountain, encompassing Mediterranean and Alpine vegetation. These trails have a poignant historical significance too. The Cathars, a medieval religious group in France, somewhat unwisely decided to label the Catholic Church the Church of Satan. This did little to foster good relations locally, and before long the Cathars were fleeing

The stunning topography of the Catalonian Pyrenees.

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culture | catalonia

Eat at ...
SPlurGe Creative and traditional Catalan cuisine is served up at la cabana restaurant (C-1411z km 79.5, Berga, +34 93 821 0470; lacabanaberga. com, around 60 a head including wine, although there is a set menu for 35). The sommelier will guide you in the direction of some of the best local wines and cava. From the panoramic window at the front of the restaurant with views right across the valley you can just make out the vineyards where your wine came from. MiD-ranGe Mol del cas just outside Bag (Lugar Terradellas, +34 93 824 4076; molidelcaso.es, from 30 a head) doubles, or indeed triples, as restaurant, hotel and cooking school. Hens scratch around outside, cattle can be heard lowing in the field, and fresh produce comes from the organic orchard. Just-hauled out-of-theriver produce is a top feature, with the fish so fresh they still look surprised to be there. BuDGet Berga, like most Catalan towns, is well served by tapas bars. cal Blasi (Pl. Viladomat 21, Berga, +34 93 821 0950; calblasi.com, around 15 a head) is one of the finest, serving the likes of patates braves, morcilla de Len (blood sausage), and local cheeses and wines. Perfect for languid lunches that last till sunset. No place for those with a bird-like appetite. Afterwards, stroll around nearby Plaa Sant Pre Lachaise Cemetery, known as the Burnt Square since the Huguenots attacked it and in the 17th century. Youre never too far from history here.

across the Pyrenees headed for Spain using this route, the Cam dels Bons Homes (+34 938 244 861; camidelsbonshomes. com). Now, you may think that anyone seeking to escape religious persecution in medieval times by taking refuge in Spain was a tad misguided; but, in fact, as soon as the Cathars managed to make it across the high mountain passes and into Catalonia, they were free of the Inquisitors. Always an independently-minded place, the Catalans welcomed the refugees. Today you can follow these trails, climbing high into the hills. The paths are steep youll find this is often the way with religious escape routes and your lungs will wheeze like an old melodeon. But the reward will be views of quite extraordinary clarity across the foothills of the Pyrenees. Cathartic in all senses of the word. Occasionally little stone refuges appear along the way. Some have been refurbished, and its possible to stay overnight most are roomy enough for four people, or six extremely friendly ones. And no thoughts of religious pursuers. Everything is quiet and tranquil. Or 94 |
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fairly tranquil. In the spring youll hear the cuckoo, in summer the woodpecker, and the whole year round youll have the company of howling wolves. The latter, however, arent at the top of the food chain hereabouts thatll be the European bear, Ursus arctos arctos (so cuddly they named it twice). Its not clear if the wolf and bear numbers constitute a settled population or whether these predators are merely tourists passing through. Anyway, mind how you go. On the way back down stop off just below the peak of Pedr de Tubau at the village of Sant Jaume de Frontany (+34 93 823 9280;

From top, the 11th century church in Sant Jaume de Frontany; Seora Maria, hotelier and restaurateur; a hearty broth awaits guests at Cal Marxand.

turismesantjaume.com). This is reputedly the smallest village in all Spain. Its 23 people can refer to themselves as a village because there is a properly constituted city hall with village council and mayor. The 10 per cent of the population who showed us round the local restaurant and hotel Cal Marxand, (+34 93 823 9002; terra.es/personal2/marxando) were friendly and welcoming, and the Cal is a place Id choose anytime to live in religious exile. Maria, the owner, also the Town Councillor

Neills is one of Dublins most famous and historic pubs. Centuries of Dublin history surround the world-renowned ONeills. Just around the corner from Trinity College, Grafton Street and the Molly Malone Statue, trade has ourished uninterrupted for over 300 years. ONeills is conveniently set in the heart of Dublin. When you pay us a visit you will receive a warm and friendly welcome and you can enjoy its ageless character, numerous alcoves, snugs, nooks and crannies. To make your visit as enjoyable as possible we offer you ...

Our fully-refurbished Roof-Top Beer Garden & Smoking Area

Extensive Irish Food Menu and Famous Carvery serving only the nest Irish Meat, Fish and Vegetables. In fact, Lonely Planet rate us as one of the Top 5 Places to nd Real Irish food in Dublin. Traditional Irish Music 7 nights-a-week Roof-Top Beer Garden and Smoking Area Largest selection of local Irish Craft Beers in Ireland Pour Your Own Pint tables Free Wi-Fi to all our Customers HD and 3D Screens for the Sports Fan with major international league games.

Really Good Full Irish Breakfast only

Available Mon-Fri, 8am-11.30am

6.95

M.J. ONeill Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 Tel. 01 679 3656 www.oneillsbar.com

Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm Fri: 8.00am-12.30am Sat: 8.00am-12.30am Sun: 8.00am-11.00pm SatNav 53.343958, -6.260796

Top 5 places to nd Real Irish Food in Dublin

2013 Les Routiers Pub of The Year

CULtURE | CAtALONIA

Barcelona
Cool, classy, vibrant barcelona is a city which not only glories in being a work of art, but also provides an endless supply of sensual pleasures including some of Europes finest restaurants and sizzling clubs. a world-beating blend of natural beauty and human artistry, the main axis of the old town is formed by Las Ramblas, which weaves its way towards the mediterranean passing stalls, restaurants, bars, boutiques and street performers and culminating at a statue of Christopher Columbus. on his return from america, Columbus headed straight for barcelona. and who can blame him? he was presumably desperate for a decent cup of coffee and a tapa. the centrepiece of barcelonas architectural treasures is the templo Expatrio de la Sagrada Famlia, designed by antonio Gaud. aside from Gauds jack-thelad architecture, barcelona is a handsome mix of medieval, art nouveau and gothic buildings, interspersed with modern museums, theatres and art galleries. the Barri Gtic, by Las ramblas, is the beautiful medieval heart of the old city. For shopping, head for La Boqueria, one of the most magnificent food markets in the world. to escape the urban swirl of barcelona chill in Gauds extraordinary Park Gell, with its zany beauty and outlandish fripperies, some fifteen minutes from the centre.

Top, Barcelona viewed from its surrounding hills; above, fresh, rustic Catalan bread.

fo Culture and for Tourism, escorted To us across to the 11th century church. ce The Romanesque church of Sant ch Jaume de Frontany Ja has witnessed many ha anecdotes during the an past 10 centuries, pa says the information leaflet, and you cant leafl help but feel that in this land of turbulent th religious history, anecdote is understating the case just a bit. Anecdote or not, it was time for us to take our leave of the mountains. Sadly, we were headed back to Barcelona and its not often you read those words. Even though we were bound for one of

Europes classiest, most exciting cities, it was a wrench to leave this enchanting corner of the Iberian Peninsula. Here in rural Catalonia the mixture of cosy, friendly villages surrounded by primal, spectacular landscape is truly seductive. They say that if the Swiss had been allowed to design their own mountains they would have come up with something a little lower, a little less outr. No such danger here. The mountains are exuberant, exciting and unpredictable, but can be tranquil and restful pretty much the way life has always been in these parts.
AER LINGUS FLIES From DubLIn to BARCELONA DaILy, anD From CorK, mon, WED, FrI anD Sat.

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ILLuStratIon by annE SmIth

LouIs FItzgerALd HospItALIty

City Centre Heritage Pubs Dublin & Galway
GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1 Tel: 01 8728658

OConnell Bridge Ph: +353 1 804 9100 www.arlington.ie

Temple Bar, Ph: +353 1 670 8777 www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com

Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can still enjoy some of the original features, high dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now complemented with plush leather seats and dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.

Traditional Irish hospitality awaits you in the Arlington Hotels. Boasting 200 Bedrooms in the Heart of the City. Experience the true Dublin and stay with us in these Iconic Locations.

9 South Anne, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6778312

KEHOES

Situated off Dublins premier shopping street, Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not the finest, Victorian pubs in Dublin. Although it is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.

1 Dame Court, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6793687

THE STAGS HEAD

Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to change from gas lighting to electricity. A favourite haunt for those in the literary world including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years. Today it still has the authentic feel of a real Dublin pub.

11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6713922

The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of Temple Bar is one of Dublins liveliest pubs with a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic and with a restaurant on the first floor.

THE QUAYS

THE LOUIS FITZGERALD

HOTEL

THE BAGGOT INN

Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2 Tel: 01 6618758
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and unique Pour your own Pint experience. Located in the hub of Dublins business centre, we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food. First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check out the Baggot Inn FREE APP.

Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel in Ireland 190 bedrooms 21 meetings rooms Amazing Wedding packages available Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300 Email: stay@louisfi f tzgeraldhotel.com www.louisfi f tzgeraldhotel.com

THE QUAYS

Quay Street, Galway Tel: 091 568347

The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city and established in the 1600s, it has kept the charm which gained it an international reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions. Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the 'craic' are the order of the day.

AN POITIN STIL

Rathcoole, Co. Dublin Tel: 01 4589244

JOELS RESTAURANT
Naas Rd, Dublin 22 Tel: 01 4592968
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins liveliest dining venues, with an extensive menu catering for almost every taste.

Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Irelands Most Famous Pubs.

A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group

www.louisfitzgerald.com

Culture break | WarsaW

WarsaW

reasons to visit

Whether youre a culture vulture or a bar fly, the Polish capital covers all bases for visitors, says Kit F Chung.

A birds eye view of Castle Square from the Balon Widokowy, Sigismunds Column on the left and the former royal residence now a museum on the right.

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Music
Known for burritos, quesadillas and tequila, Warsaw Tortilla Factory (46 Wilcza Street, +48 226 218 622; warsawtortillafactory. pl ) has long been moonlighting as a venue for live music. Its Irish owner, Niall Leonard, brings in local and international crooners to serenade expats and travellers. There is no fixed schedule though you can expect acoustic vocals and rock covers so get updates on its Facebook page. Also, on the same street is Warsaws oldest jazz club, Jazzarium (50 Wilcza Street; jazzarium.pl ). Music bars spring up in summer along the left bank of the river Cud Nad Wis (Bulwar Flotylli Wi lanej, +48 224 680 000; cudnadwisla.com) is the toast of the town, showcasing the best of Polish talent, from contemporary jazz and alternative rock to soul and funk. Over on the right bank, Klub Hydrozagadka (11 Listopada Street 22; hydrozagadka.waw.pl ) is also pulling in music lovers to revel until dawn to Polish and international acts.
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Culture break | WarsaW Left, Stalins gift to the city, the Palace of Culture. Below, futuristic mall Zote Tarasy. Bottom, the Museum of the History of the Polish Jews.

Shopping Culture
Warsaw would easily walk off with the Ms Personality accolade in a beauty contest. Its Communism-clashed-with-new-bling-and-regalold-world skyline is brimming with stories if not sporting a pretty face. But its a city thatll win you over. Get an up-close character study of the Polish capital by hitching a ride on a Communism tour by adventure Warsaw (+48 606 225 525; adventurewarsaw.com) not the usual hop-on/hop-off, as the guides bundle you into a curvaceous Nysa van made in Poland during the Cold War. The quirky, three-hour tour takes in Socialist Realism architecture, including the imposing Palace of Culture Stalins gift to the city and the Communist HQ and a mock-up period home thats a treat for fans of vintage propaganda artwork. Stretch it to four hours and youll literally get a taste of postwar Poland at a milk bar, a state-sponsored canteen for the working class. For more cultural history and the influence of the past on the present, visit the newly opened Museum of the History of Polish Jews (6 Anielewicza Street, +48 224 710 300; jewishmuseum.org.pl ), the building design inspired by Moses parting the Red Sea. Situated outside the tourist circuit, the open-air koo bazar (99 Obozowa, +48 228 362 351, weekends from dawn to early afternoon) is part antique market and part salvage yard. Rummaging through the goods on the tables and plastic sheets is like taking a tour of design history, with pre-war tableware such as complete tea services in fine porcelain, sauceboats and silver cutlery. Other vendors specialise in coins and stamps, oil lamps and candelabras, and analogue cameras. Theres also Second World War paraphernalia, clothing, old surgical tools and posters. Prices arent dirt-cheap but its possible to chance upon value deals. Most traders here dont speak English, so be prepared to deploy sign language. International-style shopping, with no Polish required, can be found at Zote tarasy (59 Zota Street, +48 222 222 200; zlotetarasy.pl ), the citys trendiest mall beside Central Station. In addition to big brand clothing, shoes and cosmetics, it also has a sizeable outlet of empik bookstore. For chi-chi boutiques, visit Mokotowska street, where the countrys leading fashion designers have set up camp, including Maciej Zie (No 57) and Ania Kuczy ska (No 61).

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Norbert Dentressangle offers Irish businesses a new dynamic vision of freight forwarding. Red Sky Connect ensures complete visibility, security and control of your goods from origin to final destination. The service is truly global, connecting the major trading regions: Asia, Europe, North and South America. Personal commitment and responsibility are central to everything we do, and the people at the heart of Red Sky Connect make the crucial difference in offering a supply chain partner that you can trust, ensuring your business runs smoothly. Bringing people closer to their dreams

CAMN OVER, FOR FUN & GAMES

GALWAY, 18th-21st sept

a family festival of hurling, irish culture & the craic
aerlingushurling.com

Culture break | WarsaW Left, Warsaws ornate Wilanw Palace. Below, Michelin-starred restaurant Atelier Amaro. Bottom, decorative Hotel Bristol.

Eating
As the only restaurant in Poland anointed with a Michelin star, atelier amaro (1 Agrykola Street, +48 226 285 747; atelieramaro.pl ), above, is Warsaws answer to Noma and elBulli. Minimalist in decor, it looks every bit the temple of haute cuisine but the price tags are, relatively speaking, quite affordable. Diners choose from a tasting menu of three, five or eight moments, and in addition to seasonal and local produce they rope in unusual ingredients such as twigs and mock mud; cue clicking camera phones whenever these edible arts and crafts are served. Even the complimentary amusebouche are amazing and, this being Poland, Atelier Amaro also has a selection of high-end little water, aka vodka. Those not in the mood for immaculately manicured dishes can turn to burgers, for Warsaw is in the grip of artisanal burger mania. Getting a thumbs-up for its in-house protein patties is brooklyn burgers and Wings (36 Nowy wiat Street, +48 222 702 144).

Where to Stay
Mamaison Hotel le regina (Koscielna 12, +48 225 316 000; mamaison.com) is the byword for elegance and attentive service. Restored from an 18th-century palace, this luxurious boutique hotel is well located on a quiet street at the far end of the historical New Town. The rooms are in subdued brown and champagne hues with some opening out to patios or rooftop terraces. It features an indoor pool and sauna but the best spot to spoil yourself is at La Rotisserie, a French-inspired restaurant staffed by top chef Pawel Oszczyk, a runner-up in the 1995 Bocuse dOr competition, while for wine pairing, youre in the safe hands of Polands 2012 and 2013 sommelier champion Andrzej Strzelczyk. Should you demand a hotel with a sweeping, birds-eye view of the city, check into the Marriott Warsaw (65/79 Jerozolimskie Avenue, +48 226 306 306; marriott.com/ wawpl ), whose 40th floor Panorama Bar & Lounge ogles the city at large. Another hotel with an impressive watering hole is Hotel bristol (42/44 Krakowskie Przedmie cie Street, +48 225 511 000; hotelbristolwarsaw. pl/en), right, that dates back to 1901 and whose Art Deco/ Art Nouveau Column Bar is opulent.

aer lINGus FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO WarsaW ON MON, WED, FRI AND SUN.

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LANG SYMPHONY RENEE ORCHESTRA LANG FLEMING

RT NATIONAL

Being there | COPenhAgen

Dont miss ...

Copenhagen
Its not just food thats on fire in Denmarks capital city. From mega museums to microbreweries, Copenhagen has something for all kinds of visitor, finds Pl Conghaile.
Eat at
Noma will push your palate (and price point) to the limit, but a little foraging of your own can uncover some surprisingly affordable alternatives in Copenhagen. nOrDiC If you do want to splash out in Scandinavia, dont miss noma (Strandgade 93, +45 3296 3297; noma.dk). Ren Redzepis restaurant was named the best in the world three years running, and remains the go-to place for creative Nordic cuisine. Set menus offer up to 20 courses from DK1,500/200 (without wine) but must be booked months in advance. MArKet israels Plads has been Copenhagens traditional marketplace since 1889, but it took the glossy halls of torvehallerne (torvehallernekbh.dk) to propel it into the 21st century. Sixty or so speciality stalls selling meat, breads, coffees and snacks, ranging from fish taco to duck rolls with rocket and sweet mustard, are just the ticket for gastro-grazing. MiDDLe grOUnD Eating out in Copenhagen neednt be expensive. A DK275/37 three-course menu at hst (Nrre Farimagsgade 41, +45 8993 8409; cofoco.dk) might start with cod served in oyster cream and kohlrabi, moving on to a riff on pork belly with purple-sprouting broccoli, and finishing with junket mousse and rhubarb sorbet. Slick service and a sleek dining room seal the deal.
Clockwise from left, the colourful Nyhavn harbour; Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is well worth a day trip; market hall treats at Torvehallerne; floral fancies at Noma.

48 hours in

MOSeY Jaegersborgadde ( jaegersborggade.com) is one of the hippest streets in Nrrebro, having traded its street dealers for a string of cutting-edge restaurants, shops and design studios. Pick of the crop includes the Michelin star minimalism of Relae (No 41), fussball and vinyl at Musiksmag (No 43), and street couture at Slam (No 5). MAritiMe As a waterfront city, Copenhagen is famous for its canal tours, quayside eateries and, of course, a certain Little Mermaid. The newest maritime attraction is the national Aquarium (Jacob Fortlingsvej 1, +45 4422 2244; denblaaplanet.dk), boasting more than 20,000 fish and ocean animals, including Europes largest school of piranhas. From DK160/95 (21/13). MUSeUM Picasso, Bacon and Rothko are just some of the artists on display at the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art (Fredensborg, +45 4919 0719; louisiana.dk). Innovative art and a sweet seaside setting easily justify the 35-kilometre trip from Copenhagens centre.

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A mash-up of design hotels, old classics and mid-range outliers offers something for every budget in Copenhagen provided you book ahead. DESIGN Overlooking the waterfront near Nyhaven, Hotel Admiral (Toldbodgade 24-28, +45 3374 1414; admiralhotel.dk) offers doubles in a converted 18th-century warehouse from DK1255/168 or so. Bare brick and huge wooden beams add to the ambiance. BoUTIQUE Seventeen rooms would be small for Carlow, let alone Copenhagen, but size isnt all that matters at Nimb hotel (Bernstorffgade 5, +45 8870 0000; nimb.dk). Private fireplaces, views of Tivoli Gardens and a Michelin star restaurant are all on the menu from 375 per night. BUDGET Copenhagen is one of Europes most expensive city breaks, so why not save money by staying at Generator hostel (Adelgade 5-7, +45 7877 5400; generatorhostels.com)? Private twin rooms start from just DK205/27.50pp.
Above right, the strikingly Moorish Nimb Hotel. Right, a bartender mixes swanky cocktails at Ruby. Below, beer hall with a difference, Mikkeller & Friends.

Sleep at

Dapper Danes give Copenhagen the appearance of one big catwalk ... and the bars are every bit as beautiful as the people. cocKTAILS If Scandinavian swank were a genre, Ruby (Nybrogade 10, +45 3393 1203; rby.dk) would be its flagship. The super-sleek cocktail bar lounges over several elegant rooms with canal views, to a gentlemans-clubstyle basement, with snooty bartenders mixing up the jasmine sours and Ruby daiquiris. Cond Nast Traveller ranked it the number one reason to go to Copenhagen. Our tip? Get there early; it opens at 4pm. DANcE By day, Copenhagens Meatpacking District looks like an abandoned shopping mall. By night, neon signs spark up and a melange of gritty and glamorous bars kicks into life. Best of the bunch are the upmarket, electro-churning Karriere; and Jolenes, where beer is drunk from bottles and grinding punters pack out the tiny dance floor. BEER Carlsberg is a top Copenhagen tourist attraction, but Mikkeller & Friends (Stefansgade 35,+45 3583 1020; mikkeller.dk) offers a brand-free brewery buzz. A choice of 40 craft beers and tasty gourmet snacks makes for an ideal afternoon in trendy Nrrebro.
AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN TO copENhAGEN , MON, TUE, WED, THUR, FRI & SUN.

Drink at...

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CASHMERE STORE
Established 1960

MONAGHANS

Irelands Leading Cashmere Store

Frommers Travel Guide
Welcome to the heart of Killarney National Park and to Molly Darcys Traditional Irish Pub. The home of great Irish food and live Traditional entertainment. Enjoy Dinner, Craft Irish Beers & Ales plus Leading Irish Music Band Onra with The Torc Dancers.

Join us this Summer for a fun Irish Night ... an experience to remember!
June: Every Tuesday & Thursday July Sept: Every Tuesday Saturday inc. Entertainment from 8pm
Group reservations are welcome! FREE Parking FREE WiFi Internet Close to Killarney Town Centre

Molly Darcys Traditional Irish Pub In the heart of Killarney National Park
Tel: +353 (0)64 662 3400 | Muckross | Killarney | Co. Kerry E: info@muckrosspark.com www.mollydarcy.ie

Mr. Tom Monaghan

A trip to Dublin would not be complete without visiting Tom Monaghan in his store in Dublins Royal Hibernian Way. Monaghans is famous for its cashmere and has been in business for over 50 years, selling a wide range of classic cashmere in the latest styles and colours for both men and women. As it is the year of The Gathering, if your family name is Monaghan, Tom would personally love to meet you in-store and offer you an extra 10% discount in addition to your tax free rebate on the horizon tax free card for all non-eu residents. (Terms & Conditions apply)
Monaghans Cashmere, Royal Hibernian Way, Dawson Street, Dublin 2, Phone: +353 (0)1 6794451

DIEP
Royal Thai Cuisine since 1999

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www.monaghanscashmere.ie

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reservations@diep.net 55 Pembroke Lane, Off Lr. Baggot Street, Dublin 2

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THE HIGHLINE (210 10th Avenue, +1 212 206 9922; thehighline.org) has fast become one of my favourite places during the week. Do not go on the weekend though it gets so crowded it becomes uncomfortable. Pick up some lunch and eat on one of the many benches provided. Its such a nice treat in the middle of a very industrial area.

An insiders guide to
Brunch is very NYC. PRUNE (54 East First Street, +1 212 677 6221; prunerestaurant.com), above, has the best one in town the pancakes are incredible but be prepared to wait, no matter how early you go. For delicious pizza, LIL FRANKIES is delicious (19 First Avenue, +1 212 420 4900; lilfrankies.com), as is the coffee at LA COLOMBE , top (different locations; lacolombe.com/cafes).

NewYork

Adopted New Yorker Aoife Wasser reveals her favourite chunks of the Big Apple.

Watching New York City Ballet, right, at the LINCOLN CENTER (10 Lincoln Center Plaza, +1 212 721 6500; lincolncenter.org) is my favourite thing. Tickets are good value, and they do matinees. Off Broadway Ive seen Tom Hanks in Lucky Guy and Sigourney Weaver in Vanya and Sonia and Masha and Spike. I love that about New York. Go to a show and you can bore people for years talking about it at parties. Thats what I do! THE GREENWICH HOTEL (377 Greenwich Stre +1 212 941 8900; thegreenwichhotel. Street, com) is an escape from the frenzy of the city. co It has a beautiful contemporary country feel, and in the summer the courtyard dining area an is just perfect. I feel like Im on holiday every time I visit.

More about Aoife

The METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART (1000 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 535 7710; metmuseum.org) is so vast that sometimes just the thought of going makes you exhausted. But my favourite bits are the Impressionist Paintings, Ancient Egypt, the Costume Institute and Armor and Weapons. And from May until September the Met opens its roof garden and Martini bar. Heavenly on a summers afternoon.

Having lived in the city for more than ten years, Aoife Wasser is practically a New Yorker. She began her career as a design intern for Visionaire magazine and, over the years, has worked her way up to become creative director of Teen Vogue, working alongside the infamous Anna Wintour. In 2011 she moved on to form her own creative studio, and is currently working on several projects for Rizzoli Publishing and also teaches the Creative Team course at Parsons University in New York City.

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If th there was an accessories ori heaven, hea HENRI BENDEL (7 (712 Fifth Avenue, +1 212 247 1100; henribendel.com), above, would be it. The department store has every accessory you can imagine. Its shelves are filled with infinite amounts of products. And prices are insanely good at BARNEYS (660 Madison Avenue, +1 212 826 8900; barneys.com), which has warehouse sales every February and August. As you can imagine the last day of the sale is not for the faint-hearted.

The perfect photo opportunity is of and from BROOKLYN BRIDGE and then over to BROOKYLN HEIGHTS promenade: you will look across at Manhattan in all its glory. Same with BATTERY PARK , which, even on very hot days, always seems to have a soothing breeze.

HIGHLINE PHOTO cOURTESY OF STEVE RYAN / NEW YORK cITY BALLETS SYMPHONY IN THREE MOVEMENTS BY PAUL KOLNIK / TOP OF THE STANDARD BY TODD EBERLE / THE AcE HOTEL BY DOUGLAS LYLE THOMPSON / THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ARTS TEMPLE OF DENDUR IN THE SAcKLER WING BY BROOKS WALKER, 2008

THE ACE HOTEL (20 West 29th Street, +1 212 679 2222; acehotel.com/newyork) marches to the beat of its own drum. The atmosphere is fantastic, very easy-going and extremely down to earth probably because of its Portland, Oregon, roots. The lobby alone is a great place to visit if youre not a guest great food, drinks and music. It gets quite crowded, so arrive early.

I love the Lower East Side for unusual vintage items. There are too many stores to mention but one of my favourites is EDITH THE MACHINEST (104 Rivington Street, +1 212 979 9992; edithmachinist.com), above left, and DOYLE & DOYLE (189 Orchard Street, +1 212 677 9991; doyledoyle.com) has an incredible collection of vintage jewellery, right.

Enjoy great city views, amazing cocktails and beautiful people? THE TOP OF THE STANDARD (Standard Hotel, 848 Washington at 13th Street, +1 212 645 4646; standardhotels.com/high-line) is the place to be. The decor has such a wonderful 1960s feel that you expect to see Don Draper drinking with the boys. Its floor-to-ceiling windows feel a bit weird at first until you realise there are no other buildings high enough for Peeping Toms

New Yorkers wouldnt survive without CENTRAL PARK , left. Ne We Weekends in summer are especially jam-packed with events but its best-kept secret is the roller disco every Saturday and Sunday from 3pm until sundown. Also, BRYANT PARK is a great place to fr rest and people watch, and has open-air movies from sunset. re

AER LINGUS FLIES FROM DUBLIN AND SHANNON TO NEW YORK DAILY.

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 AST! E SE ELF T US IN B M A TION AC R T AT

EXPERIENCE THE STORY OF RMS TITANIC AT THE BIRTHPLACE BELFAST, NORTHERN IRELAND

Located in Titanic Quarter, Belfast, at the ships birthplace and just 5 minutes drive from the city centre, Titanic Belfast is the Worlds Largest Titanic Visitor Experience. Housed in an iconic 6-oor building, this state-of-the-art visitor experience tells the story of the Titanic from her conception in Belfast in the early 1900s; through to her construction and launch; to her famous maiden voyage and her subsequent place in history. For tickets and summer event schedule visit

titanicbelfast.com
Key supporting partner Supported by

a family festival of hurling, irish culture & the craic

aerlingushurling.com

GALWAY, 18th-21st sept

INFLIGHT

Inflight

For your guide to our new and exciting On Demand movies and television programmes, including Girls (pictured), turn to page 116.

inFlight

Welcome Aboard
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the cabin crew demonstrate the use of the safety equipment before take-off. Also, make sure to read the safety instruction card, which is in the seat pocket in front of you. Seat belts must be fastened during take-off and landing, and whenever the Fasten Seat Belts sign is switched on. We recommend that you keep your seat belt loosely fastened throughout the flight. Your seat must be in the upright position during takeoff and landing, but can be reclined by pressing the large button in the armrest. Other buttons (in the armrest or above your head, depending on the aircraft) may be used to operate your reading light and air vent, or to call a cabin attendant.

ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le do shbhilteacht ...

... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann cbin ag ts na heililte agus iad ag taispeint conas an fearas slndla a sid. Iarraimid ort an crta threoraca slndla at i bpca an tsuochin os do chomhair a lamh chomh maith. Caithfear criosanna sbhla bheith ceangailte le linn ir agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon am a bhonn an comhartha Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh. Molaimid duit an crios sbhla bheith leathcheangailte agat i rith an turais. Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n mr do shuochan bheith sa suomh ingearach. Ag am ar bith eile, is fidir an suochn a chur siar ach br ar an gcnaipe mr at ar an taca uillinne. T cnaip eile ann (ar an taca uillinne n os do chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen) chun sid a bhaint as an solas litheoireachta n as an ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar bhall den fhoireann cbin.

Portable electronic equipment

Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular attention to the following: Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched off and stowed safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or receive data during the flight, however devices equipped with flight mode, or the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched off. Devices PermitteD at any time: Devices powered by micro battery cells selected, laptops, PDAs with built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless Off setting selected. Devices ProhibiteD at all times: Devices transmitting radio frequency

and/or by solar cells; hearing aids (including digital devices); pagers (receivers only); heart pacemakers.

Devices PermitteD in Flight but not During taxi/take-oFF/

initial climb/aPProach lanDing: Laptops with CD ROM or DVD drive, palmtop organisers, handheld calculators without printers, portable audio equipment (eg Walkman, CD-player, Mini-disk player, iPod and MP3-player). For the comfort of other passengers, audio devices should be used with a headset. Computer games (eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS). Video cameras/recorders, digital cameras, GPS handheld receivers, electric shavers, electronic toys. Bluetooth devices with mobile phones in Flight mode, devices with Blackberry technology with Flight/Flight Safe mode

intentionally such as walkietalkies, remote controlled toys; wireless computer equipment (eg mouse, keyboard); PC printers, DVD/CD writers and Mini-disk Recorders in the recording mode; digital camcorders when using CD write facility; portable stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/ FM); TV receivers; telemetric equipment; peripheral devices for handheld computer games (eg supplementary power packs connected by cable); wireless LAN (WLAN). Laptops with built-in WLAN (eg Centrino) may be used during flight, provided the WLAN option is turned off and subject to the restrictions associated with the use of laptops detailed above.

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Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat

Food and bar service

A new range of food items including sandwiches, confectionery and a range of snacks is available for sale on all Aer Lingus scheduled services to and from the UK and Europe. A charge applies for all drinks on UK and European flights in Economy class. On long haul flights, there is a charge in Economy class for alcoholic drinks, while soft drinks are complimentary. Details of all items available for purchase are contained in an information leaflet, which is in all seat pockets.

Seirbhs bia agus beir

T raon nua bia ar fil anois ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer Lingus a dhanann freastai ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t ceapair, milseogra agus rogha sneaiceanna agsla. N mr oc as gach deoch sa ghrd barainne ar na heitilt seo. Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t costas ar dheochanna neamh-mheiscila go fill ar fil saor in aisce. T sonra faoi gach rud is fidir a cheannach ar bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais at i bpca an tsuochin os do chomhair.

News, music and movies

On long haul flights, we offer you an extensive programme of viewing and listening options. For full details, turn towards the back of this magazine.

Nuacht, ceol agus scannin

Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t clr leathan fachana agus isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh tuilleadh eolais, fach deireadh na hirise seo.

Fearas iniompartha leictreonach

Is fidir le fearas iniompartha leictreonach cur isteach ar threalamh an eitlein, rud a dfhadfadh bheith contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchram ag Aer Lingus, iarraimid ort aird sa bhreis a thabhairt ar an mr seo a leanas: Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis. GLAsAnnA A bhfuIL ceAdAIthe I GcnA: Glasanna a bhaineann sid as Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar mhaithe le compord na bpaisiniri eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a sid ach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead gaireas forimeallach a sid le cluich limhe romhaire am ar bith (ms paca forlontach cumhachta a cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara agus fstaifeadin, trealamh digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha (seachas bragin chianrialaithe). Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar le guthin phca agus iad i modh eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus md eitilte n slnmhd eitilte roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline; romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite agus an lipad raidi mchta roghnaithe orthu. GLAsAnnA A bhfuIL cosc IomLn orthu: Glasanna a tharchuireann

micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill; cluaisn chnta (glasanna digiteach san ireamh); glaoir (gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLAsAnnA At ceAdAIthe I rIth nA heItILte, Ach nAch

bhfuIL ceAdAIthe Le LInn don eItLen bheIth AG GLuAIseAcht Ar tALAmh/AG Ir de thALAmh/ AG tAbhAIrt fAoIn dreApAdh tosAIGh/ AG drI Ar thuIrLInGt/ AG tuIrLInGt: Romhair gline le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside (DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise. ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri. Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir

minicocht raidi daon turas. Silscalaithe. Bragan chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena le feadin ga-chatadideacha. Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri DVD, CD agus taifeadin Minidisk at sa mhodh taifeadta. Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca. Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse. Trealamh teilimadrach. N cheadatear fearas LAN gan sreang (WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair gline a bhfuil WLAN ionsuite iontu (ms Centrino) a sd le linn na heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta a bhaineann le hsid romhhair gline (thuas luaite).

SmokiNg In line with Irish government regulations, Aer Lingus has a nosmoking policy onboard its flights. Smoking is not permitted in any part of the cabin at any time. tobAc De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann, t polasai i rim ar eitilt Aer Lingus nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh. N cheadatear daon duine tobac a chaitheamh in aon chuid den eitlen ag aon am.

Aer Lingus. nk you for choosing to fly with Tha ht. flig t san plea and able We hope you have a comfort le hAer Lingus. agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal t aga h hac eam taitn h dac por T suil againn go mbonn turas com
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inFLight

Aer Lingus news

Aer ArAnn expAnds Aer lingus regionAl services
Aer Lingus Regional, operated by Aer Arann, recently welcomed the first of eight new ATR aircraft at Dublin Airport. Pictured were Leo Varadkar TD, Minister for Transport, Tourism and Sport; and Sen Brogan, Aer Aranns Interim Chief Executive Officer. The new fleet will further improve Aer Lingus Regional customers experience and will help to develop new routes and increase frequency of services on existing routes. The airline recently moved all flight arrivals and departures to Terminal 2 at Dublin Airport, and now operates from the same terminal as Aer Lingus mainline services.

Aer lingus new Home At t2 london HeAtHrow from summer 2014

In July 2014 Aer Lingus will move its operations from Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 at London Heathrow. The newly refurbished terminal, when complete, will provide Aer Lingus passengers with extra comfort and with a much improved ease of connection for those transferring to their final destination. Passengers will enjoy a quick transition from plane to train in as little as ten minutes. Aer Lingus has interline and codeshare partnerships with many of the airlines who will operate from Terminal 2, offering a choice of connections to over 100 destinations worldwide. Business passengers will enjoy fast track security lanes and state of the art airline lounges. Aer Lingus operates 23 daily flights from Heathrow to Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Belfast airports.

Evening Check-In Service at Dublin Airport stress free travel for families
Aer Lingus has launched an evening check-in service at Dublin Airport, giving passengers the option to check-in their baggage at the airport the evening before a scheduled flight. This new service offers passengers, particularly families, the opportunity to complete their check-in transaction on the evening before their flight between 4pm and 8pm, leaving them virtually hassle free on the morning that they travel. The service is available exclusively to those travelling between 6am and 8am the following morning. g. Early bird travellers can then effortlessly by-pass the busy morning queues at check-in and make their way through security screening and straight on to their respective boarding gates. Flights with early morning departures include many popular European destinations, including Mlaga, Faro, London and Paris. For more information visit aerlingus.com.

Book Car Parking at Cork airPort With EasE on aerlingus.com

aer Lingus has made booking car parking at Cork airport easier and more convenient. Customers can now purchase tickets for the Cork airport car park while booking their flight on aerlingus.com. aer Lingus customers now have three ways to purchase tickets for the car park at Cork airport: while booking their flight on aerlingus.com, via a tab on the aer Lingus homepage called travel Essentials, or after a booking is made via the travel advisory email which each customer receives following a flight booking made on aerlingus.com. For more information, visit aerlingus.com.

Aer lingus mAintAins vitAl london connections At BelfAst city Airport for winter 2013/2014
AER LINGUS has launched its Winter 2013/2014 schedule from George Best Belfast City Airport, which continues to offer the two key routes for business, leisure and transfer traffic, in and out of London Heathrow and London Gatwick. There will be three return flights daily to each airport with 84 weekly departures and arrivals, amounting to over 12,000 seats each week.

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&

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iNFLiGHT

Movies

Flights to the UNiteD stAtes

oZ THe GreAT ANd PoWerFUL
Sci-Fi, Fantasy (PG) 127 minutes Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the origins of the beloved wizard, who debuted in film classic, The Wizard of Oz. Disneys fantastical adventure Oz The Great and Powerful imagines the life of Oscar Diggs, a small-time circus magician with dubious ethics. Oscar is hurled away from dusty Kansas to the vibrant Land of Oz. He thinks hes hit the jackpot until he meets three witches, who are not convinced he is the great wizard everyones been expecting. Putting his magical arts to use through illusion, ingenuity and even a bit of wizardry Oscar transforms himself not only into a great wizard but into a better man as well. STArS James Franco, Mila Kunis, Rachel Weisz, Michelle Williams, Zach Braff direcTor Sam Raimi

A Good dAy To die HArd

Action (R) STArS Bruce Willis, Jai Courtney, Sebastian Koch, Rasha Bukvic, Cole Hauser, Yulia Snigir

ALviN ANd THe cHiPMUNkS: THe SqUeAkqUeL

Family (PG) voiceS oF Zach Levi, David Cross, Jason Lee, Justin Long, Amy Poehler, Anna Faris

ANd NoW A Word FroM oUr SPoNSor

Comedy (NR) STArS Bruce Greenwood, Parker Posey, Callum Blue

beAUTiFUL creATUreS
Fantasy (PG-13) STArS Alice Englert, Emma Thompson, Viola Davis, Jeremy Irons

THe eNd oF Love

Drama (PG) STArS Smyth Campbell, Michael Cera, Jocelin Donahue

eTHeL
Documentary (NR) FeATUriNG Ethel Kennedy, Rory Kennedy, John F. Kennedy

FATHerS cHAir
Drama (R) STArS Wagner Moura, Mariana Lima, Lima Duarte, Bras Moreau Antunes

GrAbberS
Comedy (NR) STArS Richard Coyle, Ruth Bradley, Russell Tovey

THe GUiLT TriP

Comedy (PG-13) STArS Seth Rogen, Barbra Streisand, Colin Hanks, Adam Scott, Yvonne Strahovski, Danny Pudi

Horrid HeNry: THe Movie

Family (PG) STArS Theo Stevenson, Anjelica Huston, Richard E. Grant, Noel Fielding, Parminder Nagra

iNeScAPAbLe
Thriller (R) STArS Alexander Siddig, Marisa Tomei, Joshua Jackson, Oded Fehr

kNiFe FiGHT
Drama (R) STArS Rob Lowe, Eric McCormack, Julie Bowen, Carrie-Anne Moss, Saffron Burrows, Jamie Chung, David Harbour, Richard Schiff To mark THe GATHeriNG ireLANd 2013 Aer Lingus presents Irish comedy Grabbers. Directed by Jon Wright, Grabbers is a monster comedy from Irish screenwriter Kevin Lehane.

THe LAST STANd

Action (R) STArS Arnold Schwarzenegger, Eduardo Noriega, Forest Whitaker, Johnny Knoxville

LeS MiSerAbLeS
Musical (PG-13) STArS Hugh Jackman, Russell Crowe, Anne Hathaway

THe Look oF Love

Biopic (R) STArS Steve Coogan, Anna Friel, Imogen Poots, Tamsin Egerton, David Walliams, Stephen Fry

PAreNTAL GUidANce
Comedy (PG) STArS Billy Crystal, Bette Midler, Marisa Tomei, Tome Everett Scott, Bailee Madison

PeTer PAN
Family (G) voiceS oF Bobby Driscoll, Kathryn Beaumont, Hans Conreid

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Movies

Flights From the UNiteD stAtes

PROMISED LAND
Drama (R) 106 minutes Promised Land is the new contemporary drama directed by Gus Van Sant (My Own Private Idaho, Good Will Hunting, Milk). Matt Damon plays Steve Butler, an ace corporate salesman who is sent along with his partner, Sue Thomason to close a key rural town in his companys expansion plans. With the town having been hit hard by the economic decline of recent years, the two outsiders see the local citizens as likely to accept their companys offer. What seems like an easy job for the duo becomes complicated by the objections of key local people. Written by Matt Damon and John Krasinski, Promised Land explores America at the crossroads where big business and the strength of small-town community converge. StARS Matt Damon, Frances McDormand, John Krasinski, Rosemarie DeWitt, Hal Holbrook DIREctOR Gus Van Sant

DONt StOP BELIEvINg: EvERyMANS JOuRNEy

Documentary (NR) StARS Jonathan Cain, Deen Castronovo, Arnel Pineda

Family (G)

FINDINg NEMO

gANgStER SquAD
Action (R) StARS Sean Penn, Ryan Gosling, Emma Stone, Nick Nolte, Josh Brolin, Frank Grillo, Holt McCallany

vOIcES OF Ericka Beck, Albert Brooks, Willem Dafoe, Ellen DeGeneres, Alexander Gould, Barry Humphries

IcE AgE: cONtINENtAL DRIFt

Family (PG) vOIcES OF Ray Romano, Denis Leary, John Leguizamo,

IDENtIty thIEF
Comedy (R) StARS Jason Bateman, Jon Favreau, John Cho, Robert Patrick, Morris Chestnut, Amanda Peet

JAck thE gIANt SLAyER

Adventure (PG-13) StARS Nicholas Hoult, Eleanor Tomlinson, Stanley Tucci, Ian McShane, Bill Nighy, Ewan McGregor

JuMP
Drama (R) StARS Nichola Burley, Martin McCann, Charlene McKenna, Valene Kane

LIFE OF PI
Adventure (PG) StARS Suraj Sharma, Irrfan Khan, Adil Hussain

MOBIuS
Thriller (NR) StARS Christophe Cervoni, Eric Juhrian, Mathias Rubin

thE ODD LIFE OF tIMOthy gREEN

Family (PG) StARS Dianne Wiest, CJ Adams, Rosemarie DeWitt, Ron Livingston, M. Emmet Walsh

PARkER
Crime (R) StARS Jason Statham, Jennifer Lopez, Nick Nolte, Michael Chiklis, Bobby Cannavale

PILgRIM hILL
Drama (PG-13) StARS Joe Mullins, Muiris Crowley, Corina Gough, Kevin McCormack, Keith Byrne

SIDE EFFEctS
Thriller (R) StARS Jude Law, Channing Tatum, Catherine Zeta-Jones

SNItch
Action (PG-13) StARS Dwayne Johnson, Susan Sarandon, Barry Pepper, Benjamin Bratt

StOkER
Thriller (R) StARS Mia Wasikowska, Matthew Goode, Nicole Kidman, Jacki Weaver, Dermot Mulroney, Phyllis Somerville

vAMPS

WARM BODIES
Comedy (PG-13) StARS Nicholas Hoult, Teresa Palmer, John Malkovich, Rob Corddry, Analeigh Tipton

Comedy (PG-13) StARS Alicia Silverstone, Sigourney Weaver, Krysten Ritter, Wallace Shawn, Malcolm McDowell

To mark thE gAthERINg IRELAND 2013 Aer Lingus presents Jump it follows the lives of four 20-somethings whose lives collide one night. Pilgrim hill focuses on a middle-aged farmer living in rural Ireland.

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INFLIGHT

On Demand TV allows you to select and view your favourite TV shows. Dont miss the most anticipated new shows on TV in this extensive choice of award-winning Comedy, Drama, Documentary, Lifestyle and Kids programmes.

Television

On demand

America: The Story of the US

Mankind: The Story of All of Us Fry. It looks at the story of the human race and uses realistic CGI to bring to life the most critical events in human history. History Channel also presents the Emmy award-winning America: The Story of the US, that looks at how the history of the United States was invented. From National Geographic Channel there are three episodes of the technology series Engineering Connections presented by Richard Hammond, and three episodes of Great Migrations, this series tells the formidable stories of many of the planets species and their movements, while also revealing new scientific discoveries.

The Meaning of Life

Austin and Ally

DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS
In Documentary Highlights enter a world beyond imagination with award-winning and critically acclaimed documentaries Untamed Americas, Beyond The Cosmo, Megastructures, Bird Brain, Harnas Wildlife Rescue Camp and Living The Wildlife. Music documentary Hendrix on Hendrix and Sports documentary Enzo Ferrari Passion for Speed offer an insight into two very different men. Multiple episodes of Premium Factual documentaries are available On Demand. From History Channel enjoy three episodes of Mankind The Story of All of Us, the new mini-series narrated by Josh Brolin and Stephen

LIFESTYLE HIGHLIGHTS

Lifestyle highlights include History Channel favourites Pawn Stars and Shipping Wars. Dont miss Project Runway, Grand Designs, Jamies 15 Minute Meals, Show Me Your Wardrobe, The Jo Whiley Music Show, Who Do You Think You Are?, The Meaning of Life (featuring Noel Gallagher), Race of Champions and HSBC Golfing World. To mark The Gathering 2013 Aer Lingus presents The Gathering: Homeward Bound which sees Trevor Brennan return to his roots, Other Voices: Villagers Special and four fascinating episodes of The Genealogy Roadshow.

Handy Manny

KIDS HIGHLIGHTS
Kids can enjoy Disney favourites Handy Manny and Doc McStuffins and from Monster Entertainment kids will love Funky Fables and Fluffy Gardens. Tweens and Teens can view Glee, Shake It Up and Disneys Austin and Ally.

Ripper Street

The Big Bang Theory

DRAMA HIGHLIGHTS

As we witness a golden age in TV drama, Aer Lingus offers an engaging choice of Drama TV with multiple episodes available of the hottest drama from the US and UK. There are also one-off episodes to select from in The Mentalist, Boardwalk Empire, The Wire and Glee. Three episodes of brand new BBC Drama are available Ripper Street is a compelling, gritty crime drama with high production values and a stellar cast. Set in Victorian London, this drama is fused with rich storylines that meld with the intrigue of a criminal underworld as it follows the battle of the men whose job it is to bring the law to the lawless. According to The Guardian, Ripper Street is beautifully performed, and beautiful to look at stylish, and stylised. Ripper Street is filmed in Dublin.

COMEDY HIGHLIGHTS

Call the Midwife After fabulous ratings and reviews for the first series, the moving, funny and true-to-life look at the colourful stories of midwifery in East London in the 1950s continues in Call The Midwife. Three episodes from the award-winning second series are available On Demand. This is a fascinating portrayal of birth, life, death and a community on the brink of huge social change. Aer Lingus is proud to premiere the first three episodes of Season 3 of Game of Thrones. In Season 3, many critical plot points from the first two seasons come to a head, with several major characters meeting cruel fates. This epic drama is set in a fantasy continent and is a truly thrilling journey through an unforgettable fictional landscape. Production and filming took place in Northern Ireland. Watch out for the first three episodes of brand new HBO Drama Banshee. This exciting new series charts the twists that follow recently paroled master jewel thief Lucas Hood. Described by the Hollywood Reporter as, taut, entertaining and smart hooks you immediately.

Dont miss two episodes of one of the hottest comedies of the moment from HBO in Enlightened starring Golden Globe winner Laura Dern. Also from HBO take a look at Veep and Curb Your Enthusiasm. More brand new comedy includes Modern Family, Its Always Sunny in Philadelphia, Family Guy, New Girl, Louie, The Middle, The Big Bang Theory and Peep Show. As Lena Dunhams awardwinning hit comedy series returns to HBO, Aer Lingus presents the first five episodes of Girls from the brand new Season 2. Girls follows the urban adventures of a group of 20-something NYC women. Season 2 is as addictive as ever and has become the cultural touchstone for a new generation. Take a trip back in time and enjoy Arrested Development and The IT Crowd starring Chris ODowd.

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Radio
Easy Listening

On demand
1970s Indie/Alternative Classical

Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening collection of songs from both sides of the Atlantic, brought to you compliments of The Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With two hotels in downtown Manhattan, Grand Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan, Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in NYC. Visit their website for more information, fitzpatrickhotels.com. Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on Twitter & Facebook.

That 70s Show

Take a trip back to the decade famous for flares and flower power in That 70s Show. Listen out for some seriously memorable gems from The Rolling Stones, Stevie Wonder, Pink Floyd, ABBA to Lou Reed, The Who and The Clash.

Indie Hits
Tune into Indie Hits an alternative selection of tunes from bands that have now gained cult status. Bands to listen out for include grunge gods Nirvana and the inimitable Pixies, as well as other US Indie gods The Shins, The National and The Black Keys. Manchesters finest of course make an appearance in the form of The Stone Roses and Oasis.

John Kelly
On RT lyric fm, Kelly presents The John Kelly Ensemble every weekday afternoon between 2pm and 4pm. From Bach to Brian Eno, The John Kelly Ensemble transforms your afternoons with a sonic adventure like no other. Here, exclusively for Aer Lingus passengers, John provides a carefullychosen selection of classical music. You can find out more about Johns programmes on rte.ie/lyricfm or follow him on Twitter @johnkellytweets
Traditional Irish

Pop

Poetry

Talk Radio

Chart Hits
Chart Hits lifts the lid on the most up-to-the-minute Pop hits from both sides of the Atlantic. Listen out for your favourite artists in this compilation of smash hits. This exciting set of songs features hits from the worlds most successful artists including, Justin Timberlake, Nicole Scherzinger and One Direction. Also listen out for brand new songs from industry stalwarts Depeche Mode and David Bowie.

Irish Poetry Corner

Poetry has been a passion in Ireland for a couple of thousand years. Brian Munn selects and reads verses from renowned Irish Poets W.B. Yeats, Oliver Goldsmith, Percy French, Oscar Wilde and others of note. This unique selection is at times comic, romantic and always nostalgic. Enjoy this ensemble of Irish poetry produced especially for Aer Lingus to celebrate this remarkable Irish tradition.

Best of Moncrieff
Best of Moncrieff is a lively mix of funny, engaging and irreverent features. Its insightful format gives listeners a unique listening experience. Tune into Best of Moncrieff every weekday from 1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm for a lively mix of phone-ins, text messages and stories from around the world and down your street. Text 53106, email afternoon@ newstalk.ie or follow Sean on Twitter @SeanMoncrieff.

Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael is a traditional music programme presented, in Irish, by Sen hanaigh. Sen presents Sruth na Maoile on RT Raidi na Gaeltachta. The station is the national Irish language broadcaster in Ireland, and is celebrating 40 years on air. Ceol traidisinta agus ceol tre den scoth, le Sen hanaigh. For more, visit rte.ie/rnag. Twitter @RTERnaG.

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INFLIGHT

Radio
Opera

On demand
Irish Countdown

Documentary On One
Documentary On One is the multi award winning radio documentary strand from RT Radio 1 (88-90FM) and is currently the most successful documentary unit in the world winning over 70 awards since 2009. The website rte.ie/doconone contains over 1,000 radio documentaries all freely available to listen/podcast. You can also download the all new and free Documentary On One for iPhone and/or Android app. The documentaries featured are Kerry and The Tramp, Fire and Water and Kenmare Street. rte.ie/doconone.

The Big 10
98FMs Big 10 is presented by Claire Solan, the voice of the Dublin airwaves and presenter of many well-known TV shows. In this special programme commissioned for Aer Lingus, Claire uses the theme of The Gathering 2013 and remembers previous events and gatherings that have brought Ireland and Irish people together over the past decades. We hope you enjoy the music, moments and memories. For more on Claire and 98FM, visit 98fm.com
Folk, Roots

Opera Night
In Tales from the Opera RT lyric fm presenter Liz Nolan visits the history of this spectacular art. She presents an opera, a story, a glimpse into the lives of the characters, both real and imaginary, who have shaped the form as we know it today ...Poor Butterfly smirked Noel Coward. But can any of us remain unmoved by a story of such desperate sadness? Tales from the Opera pays homage to Puccinis Madama Butterfly.
Kids

Homecoming
Homecoming is a nostalgic mix of famous Irish songs selected especially for The Gathering 2013. Whether you live in Ireland, are coming home to visit relatives and friends or discover your Irish roots these Irish classics are sure to conjure up memories of days gone by. This show represents the cream of Irish talent from U2, The Pogues, The Cranberrys, Horslips, The Dubliners, The Saw Doctors to Rory Gallagher and many more. Enjoy Coming Home with Homecoming.

Alternative

Jazz

RT Jr
Join Audrey and Ogie in The Cosy Corner to enter a world of sleepy and comforting music thats sure to help little ones drift to the Land of Nod. The Cosy Corner has plenty of sleepy-time stories and meditations from all over the world; including soothing Irish lullabies. All of the lullabies are chosen especially for sleepyheads flying all over the world. So get your pillow and your blanket and get comfortable in the Cosy Corner its going to be a relaxing flight. rte.ie/rtejr/listen

Phantom
Phantom 105.2 is the home of very best music on Irish radio. Phantom is committed to playing new music, Indie Rock and alternative music for Dublin. Claire Beck brings you through a selection of what you will hear on Dublins alternative Radio Station! Claire presents Phantom Drive, daily from 3pm on Phantom 105.2. Turn it on and try something different! Phantom 105.2 phantom.ie!

Jazz Alley
Take a walk down Jazz Alley with Donald Helme, featuring the best in classic and contemporary jazz. Focusing on the curious, quirky, obscure, and neglected Jazz Alley broadcasts on Irelands dedicated classical music station, RT lyric fm, each Wednesday evening at 7pm. Donald Helmes lifelong enthusiasm for jazz began in the 1950s with Count Basie, and blossomed from there to include almost all aspects of this absorbing and important music.

Roots Freeway
Niall Toner presents Roots Freeway on RT Radio 1, Irelands mostlistened-to radio station; Saturday nights at 11pm. Roots Freeway is an eclectic mix of Folk, Bluegrass, Blues and Roots Music. Toner is, first and foremost, a music fan, but he is also a songwriter and a musician in his own right, playing guitar and mandolin with his own band, The Niall Toner Band.

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INFLIGHT

Wellbeing
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your flight: Wear loose-fitting clothes on board, to all your skin to breathe. Stretch your legs by taking a stroll through the cabin. Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-clockwise. Trace the letters of the alphabet with your foot by moving your ankles. Exercising your feet and legs periodically helps to reduce possible effects of long-duration travel. Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same position for too long and gently stretch muscles to improve your circulation. Move your neck and shoulders during long flights to prevent stiffness. Reducing the effects of Jet Lag: Avoid heavy food, alcohol, tea or coffee the day before you travel. When you arrive at your destination, try to adjust your activities to the new time zone. Mild exercise on arrival will help to stimulate your circulation.

Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and measurements, illustrated below.
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS REGIONAL

We wish you an enjoyable experience.

Travel Tips
It is important to take time to reduce your risk of getting sick. Various viruses are thought to spread mainly from person to person through coughing, sneezing, or close contact with the flu. Here are some everyday preventative actions you can take to help slow the spread of germs that cause respiratory illness, like flu: Cover your nose and mouth when you cough and sneeze. This will help to prevent the spread of droplets that contain germs. Wash your hands often with soap and water. If soap and water are not available use an alcoholbased hand rub. Avoid touching your eyes, nose and mouth, this can cause the spread of germs. An important step is to get a flu vaccination, especially for elderly people, people with certain chronic health conditions, and pregnant women.

Passengers with wheelchair requirements

Our priority is to always ensure the safety and comfort of all passengers. We encourage passengers who may need assistance to contact us well in advance of their date of travel to enable us to assess their needs. If you are a wheelchair user or require wheelchair assistance when travelling on Aer Lingus services, please advise us of your requirements at least 48 hours in advance, quoting your booking reference number. Our contact details are as follows: email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com Telephone: (Ireland) 0818 365 011 08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri & 09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun (UK) 0871 718 20 21 (Europe) + 353 1 886 8333 (USA) 516 622 4222

10kg
55cm (22ins) 24cm (9ins) (22 lbs) 40cm (16ins)

Maximum weight

48cm (19ins)

Maximum weight

7kg
(15 lbs)

20cm (8ins)

33cm (13ins)

In addition you may choose to carry on one of the following, which must be placed under the seat in front: Small ladies handbag/gents satchel = 25cm (10) x 33cm (13) x 20cm (8) OR Duty Free shopping bag as well as: Baby-changing/food bag Medical/assistive devices EU security rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.

Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures: Please pay attention to any instructions given to you by the cabin crew. Any behaviour towards a fellow passenger or cabin crew that is deemed to be threatening or abusive (including the use of offensive language) is a serious matter. As our priority is the safety of all passengers, it is important not to interrupt the cabin crew while they carry out their duties, and not to interfere with aircraft equipment. As a service to passengers, alcohol is served in the airport lounges and on board. In the interests of safety, Aer Lingus may refuse to allow you board if it is thought too much alcohol has been consumed. While the majority of passengers are responsible, there have occasionally been incidents where intoxicated passengers have caused serious safety hazards. Passengers are reminded also that during the flight you may not consume any alcohol brought onto the aircraft by you or any other passenger. The consumption inflight of Duty Free alcohol purchased from the Sky Shopping service is also prohibited. This measure is, again, necessary in the interests of flight safety. If incidents of this kind occur during a flight, the cabin crew is obliged to contact police on arrival at your final destination. The Aircraft Captain may also divert the flight enroute in order to remove disruptive passengers. Should this happen, Aer Lingus will not be responsible for getting you home, your ticket money will not be refunded, and in addition to the authorities awaiting you on landing you could be heavily fined and/or be liable to a prison sentence. In many cases, other airlines may subsequently refuse to allow you to fly with them. We emphasise that while on board the aircraft our priority is your safety. As always, we wish you a safe and enjoyable flight, as well as a safe onward journey.

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King Johns Castle

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Irelands only 19th century photography studio, specialising in creating one of a kind portraits on glass and aluminium using a rare victorian photographic technique. This centrally located Dublin studio is run by experienced photographer Alex Sapienza. Providing a professional & unique alternative to the individual or couple portrait.

Irelands only 19th century photography studio, specialising in creating one of a kind portraits on glass and aluminium using a rare photographic technique. This centrally located Dublin studio is run by experienced photographer Alex Sapienza. Providing a professional & unique alternative to the individual, couple or family portrait.
We are now accepting your old Punts as payment for food or Drinks!!

Free Irish Coffee with this Advert, one per person

Visit us

ONLINE

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HERES SOMETHING TO SLEEP ON.

Check-in your bags the night before you travel.
If you are ying between 6 and 8am from Dublin, simply check in your luggage at the airport between 4 and 8pm the evening before you y. Then, relax and get a good nights sleep, knowing you have a stress-free travel day ahead. To nd out more, visit aerlingus.com. Now with Evening Before Check-In from Aer Lingus, you can check in your baggage the day before you travel.

Evening Before Check-In

Great Care. Great Fare.

INFLIGHT

Route maps
Aberdeen Glasgow Edinburgh

EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Helsinki Stockholm

Copenhagen

Kerry

Isle of Man Blackpool DUBLIN Manchester London Birmingham HEATHRoW Cardiff

Hamburg Berlin Warsaw

Amsterdam London Dusseldorf SouTHEND Bristol Bournemouth London GATWICK Brussels Frankfurt Jersey Rennes Paris Stuttgart Zurich Geneva Bordeaux Lyon
LINATE

Prague Vienna Budapest

Munich

Milan

Santiago de Compostela

Bilbao

Toulouse Perpignan Madrid

Marseille MALPENSA Nice

Milan lan

Venice Verona Ve Bologna Dubrovnik Bourgas

Barcelona Palma

Rome Naples Corfu Izmir Catania Athens

Lisbon Faro Malaga

Ibiza Alicante

Agadir Lanzarote Tenerife Fuerteventura Gran Canaria

To & From Dublin

Austria Vienna Belgium Brussels Bulgaria Bourgas Canary Islands Fuerteventura Gran Canaria Lanzarote Tenerife Croatia Dubrovnik Czech Republic Prague Denmark Copenhagen Finland Helsinki France Bordeaux Lyon Marseille Nice Paris Perpignan Toulouse Rennes Germany Berlin Dusseldorf Frankfurt Hamburg Munich Stuttgart Greece Athens Corfu Hungary Budapest Ireland Kerry Italy Bologna Catania Milan (Linate) Milan (Malpensa) Naples Rome Venice Verona The Netherlands Amsterdam Morocco Agadir Poland Warsaw Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Bilbao Ibiza Madrid Malaga Palma Santiago de Compostela Sweden Stockholm Switzerland Geneva Zurich Turkey Izmir United Kingdom Birmingham London (Gatwick) London (Heathrow) Jersey Manchester United Kingdom Aberdeen Birmingham Blackpool Bournemouth Bristol Cardiff Edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man London Southend

Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com

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EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK

Edinburgh BELFAST Dublin SHANNON CORK Bristol London Heathrow Jersey Rennes Manchester Birmingham LONdON GATWICK Amsterdam Brussels

Knock

Paris

Munich

Geneva

Nice

Barcelona Palma Lisbon Faro Malaga Alicante

Tenerife

Lanzarote Las Palmas

To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick

FROM BELFAST
Flights operate from George Best Belfast City Airport

FROM CORK Belgium Brussels Canary Islands Lanzarote Tenerife Las Palmas France Nice Paris Rennes Germany Munich Portugal Faro Lisbon Spain Alicante Barcelona Malaga Palma Switzerland Geneva The Netherlands Amsterdam United Kingdom London Heathrow United Kingdom Birmingham Bristol Edinburgh Glasgow Jersey Manchester

FROM GATWICK Ireland Belfast Cork Dublin Ireland West Airport (Knock)

FROM SHANNON United Kingdom London Heathrow United Kingdom Birmingham Edinburgh Manchester Portugal Faro

FROM KNOCK United Kingdom Birmingham London Gatwick

Portugal Faro Spain Malaga Palma United Kingdom London Heathrow London Gatwick

Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann

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USA ROUTE NETWORK

Chicago New York

Boston

Shannon

Dublin

Orlando

To & From Dublin & Shannon

FROM DUBLIN USA Boston Chicago New York Orlando FROM SHANNON USA Boston New York
(Via New York/Boston with JetBlue)

Chicago Orlando

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inFLight

CONNECTING EUROPE, USA & CANADA

Edmonton

Calgary Winnipeg Vancouver Seattle Portland OR

Minneapolis Milwaukee Omaha ChiCago Grand Rapids Detroit Toronto Buffalo Syracuse Ro Rochester

Burlington

Portland ME

Sacramento San Francisco San Jose Oakland

Boston Pi Pittsburgh Nantucket Philadelphia neW York Des Moines Salt Lake City Indianapolis Columbus Baltimore Cincinnati ncinna Washington Greensboro Wichita Saint Louis Denver DuLLES uis Washington Wa NATIONAL Louisville Lexington Lex Richmond Ri Nashville Tulsa Raleigh - Durham Ra Las Vegas Oklahoma City Charlotte arlo Knoxville Memphis Cleveland Dayton on Phoenix

Burbank Long Beach Orange County

Los Angeles Santa Ana San Diego

Dallas (Fort Worth) Austin San Antonio New Orleans

Atlanta Charleston Jacksonville Orlando Tampa Fort Myers West Palm Beach Fort Lauderdale Miami

Houston

Aguadilla

San Juan Ponce Po

FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEW YORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO new destinations with aer Lingus, in partnership with JetBlue, United airlines and aer arann Getting to the uS from destinations throughout Europe has never been easier. uS, Irish and European based customers can book a single low fare reservation between Ireland, Europe and a wide range of continental uS destinations using JFK New York, Boston and Chicago as stopovers. By choosing to fly to the united States via Dublin and Shannon with Aer Lingus, passengers can avail of united States Customs and Immigration Pre-clearance facilities at Terminal 2, Dublin airport. This facility allows passengers travelling on the majority of uS bound flights to clear uS immigration and customs before departing Dublin and Shannon. Customers arrive in the uS without any further processing requirement allowing for a seamless transfer to their final destination. neW York Connecting with JetBlue at JFk: Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue domestic departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. From april 3 2013, aer Lingus flight operations will move from terminal 4 at John F. kennedy international airport into JetBlues acclaimed terminal 5, at JFk. Boston Connecting with JetBlue at Boston Logan international airport: When you arrive from Dublin or Shannon, proceed directly to Terminal C for your JetBlue domestic departure. Passengers travelling from the uS to Ireland and Europe will be able to check in bags at the JetBlue departure point and then pick them up again in Shannon or Dublin. ChiCago Connecting with United airlines at ohare Chicago international airport: On arrival at Terminal Five from Dublin or Shannon, make your way to the nearby ATS (Airport Transit System), which runs every four minutes to your uA domestic departure point. Passengers from the uS to Ireland and Europe can check in bags at the uA departure point, then exit security in Chicago OHare to take the Airport Transit System to Terminal Five for the onward Aer Lingus flight, and pick up their bags in Shannon or Dublin. DUBLin Connecting with aer Lingus regional (operated by Aer Arann) at Dublin airport: Aer Linguss interline agreement with Aer Arann allows passengers connect to Aer Lingus transatlantic flights via Dublin Airport, where they can through check their luggage directly to their final uS destination.

All routes correct at time of going to press

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stockholm

Glasgow

edinburgh

Isle of Man Dublin Shannon kerry Birmingham cardiff Bristol Manchester london
HeaTHrow

Hamburg amsterdam Dusseldorf Brussels Frankfurt paris Munich Vienna Berlin warsaw

GaTwIck

london souTHenD london

Geneva
Malpensa

Milan

lInaTe

Milan

Venice

santiago De compostela Madrid

Marseille

Barcelona

rome naples

palma alicante Faro Malaga

Via Dublin with aer lingus alicante amsterdam Barcelona Berlin Birmingham Brussels Dusseldorf edinburgh Faro Frankfurt Geneva Hamburg london (Gatwick) london (Heathrow) Madrid Malaga Manchester Marseille Milan linate Milan Malpensa Munich naples palma paris rome santiago de compostela

stockholm Venice Vienna warsaw

Via new YoRk with Jetblue aguadilla austin Baltimore Boston Buffalo Burbank Burlington charlotte chicago Denver Fort lauderdale Fort Myers Houston Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans oakland orlando phoenix pittsburg ponce portland Me portland or raleigh-Durham

Via Dublin with aer lingus Regional Bristol cardiff edinburgh Glasgow Isle of Man london southend kerry

rochester sacramento salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle syracuse Tampa west palm Beach

Via boSton with Jetblue Baltimore Buffalo charleston charlotte chicago Dallas Fort worth Denver Ford lauderdale Fort Myers Jacksonville las Vegas long Beach los angeles nantucket new orleans

Via Shannon with aer lingus london (Heathrow) Via Shannon with aer lingus Regional Manchester Birmingham Bristol edinburgh

oakland orlando philadelphia phoenix pittsburg portland or raleigh-Durham richmond salt lake city san Diego san Francisco san Jose san Juan seattle Tampa washington (Dulles) washington (national) west palm Beach

Via ChiCago with united to uSa atlanta austin charlotte charleston cincinnati chicago cleveland

columbus Dallas (Fort worth) Dayton Denver Des Moines Detroit Fort Myers Grand rapids Greensboro Houston Indianapolis Jacksonville kansas city knoxville las Vegas lexington los angeles louisville Memphis Miami Milwaukee Minneapolis nantucket nashville new orleans oklahoma city omaha orange county phoenix pittsburgh

portland or raleigh-Durham rochester sacramento salt lake city san antonio san Diego san Francisco san Jose santa ana seattle st louis Tampa Tulsa wichita

Via ChiCago with united to Canada calgary edmonton salt lake city Toronto Vancouver winnipeg

Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann July 2013

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INFLIGHT

Middle east and australasia route network

Dublin

Bahrain Abu Dhabi Muscat

Kuala Lumpur Singapore

FROM DUBLIN Abu Dhabi

VIa aBU DHaBI TO: Muscat Kuala Lumpur Singapore Bahrain Sydney Melbourne Sydney Melbourne

Flights are operated by our codeshare partner, Etihad Airways.

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July 2013

Come dine in one of Irelands denitive Italian experiences, brought to you by Eileen Dunne, Stefano Crescenzi & David Izzo

A cosy Italian restaurant & extensive wine bar. 14-16 South Frederick Street, D2. Tel: +353 (1) 6759892 11 Seafort Avenue, Sandymount, D4. Tel: +353 (1) 6673252

www.dunneandcrescenzi.com

U.S. IMMIGRATION LAWYERS

Traditional Italian trattoria restaurant, homemade pasta & delicious healthy pizza 26 Lower Ormond Quay, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 8741000 Mayor Square, IFSC, D1. Tel: +353 (1) 6702887

www.baritalia.ie

Specializing in advising on U.S. immigration law and drafting U.S. visa applications for:
Professionals Executives Investors Intra-company transferees Multi-national managers

Family-based petitions Interns and trainees Artists Outstanding individuals in athletics, business, entertainment and science

Excellent track record representing top Irish companies and individuals. Personal service and fast turnaround assured.

A workshop of cutting edge Italian food, using only the finest ingredients Town Square, Dundrum Town Centre, Dublin 18. Tel: +353 (1) 216 6764 Unit 35, Kildare Village, Co. Kildare. Tel: +353 45 535850

www.ofcina.ie

OFFICES IN NEW YORK CITY AND KILKENNY, IRELAND

Dunne and Crescenzi has changed the way the Irish eat
They brought the real Italian food to Ireland Pioneering & Reigning
TomDoorley,The IrishTimes Food&WineMagazine

New York T: 212 965-1148

Kilkenny T: 056-7767994

MEMBER OF AMERICAN IMMIGRATION LAWYERS ASSOCIATION

The New York Times

www.obrienandassociates.com

InFlIGHt

CONNECTING TO ANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT

FLIGHTS ARRIvING AT TERmINAL 2
FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 401 - 426 Arrivals Route to Baggage Reclaim from Gates 400s FLIGhT ConnECTIonS Connecting flight departs Gates 100s - 300s

Flight Connections

To Gates 100s 300s Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk

Immigration

Immigration

Lifts to Gates 401 - 426 Escalator to Gates 401 - 426

Security Check

Terminal 2 Arrivals

If you already have a boarding card for your connecting flight, and your baggage has been tagged to your final destination, simply follow the sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which you will see on your left hand side as you enter the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you will proceed to Immigration and Security Check. After clearing these points, check the information screens and proceed to your boarding gate.

If your baggage has not been tagged to your final destination you must clear Immigration, enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level. Once you have reached the departures level, check the information screens for your onward flight information, and proceed as directed to the appropriate check-in desk.

If you have any queries, or need further assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which is located in the baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our staff will be glad to help.

Please note: eU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin airport

Connecting at Heathrow Airport

Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes. Please disembark From THe BACK oF THe airCraFT iF: You are an international connecting passenger and all your luggage* is checked through to your final destination *Pushchairs checked to London can be collected from the back of the aircraft Please disembark From THe FRONT oF THe airCraFT iF: london is your final destination Your onward connection is to a domestic Uk airport Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow You would like to leave the airport between flights You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance

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July 2013

Cloghan Castle
20 mins from Dublin

Re-live the adventure of a lifetime

Come experience the Shackleton Endurance Exhibition - the most extraordinary maritime rescue in history.

loghan Castle is an exclusive, self catering venue ideal for that Fairytale Wedding or Party, the self catering option gives the unique opportunity to tailor your day to have it your way! Banquet Hall can seat up to 120 guests with 7 double bedrooms uniquely decorated giving an authentic castle experience in a luxurious way with central heating throughout. Ceremony and Drinks reception can be held on the battlements, in the courtyard, in our landscaped gardens or in our cosy Drawing Room with an Open Fire.

Intl Tel: + 353 91 870102 Email: info@cloghancastle.com Proprietor: Micheal H Burke, Chanelle Group Contact us for our Special Offers: www.cloghancastle.com

Endurance
Triumph against all odds

Sir Ernest Shackleton

R A I LT O U R S

1914-1917

Ferry Terminal Building, Dn Laoghaire

First Class!

IRELAND

T: +353 1 236 0544 www.shackletonexhibition.com

American Restaurant & Bar

A FREE APPETISER
for one with a main course purchased on production of your boarding pass
Terms and conditions apply

BLANCHARDSTOWN CENTRE Dublin 15. Tel: 01 822 5990 ST STEPHENS GREEN Dublin 2. Tel: 01 478 1233 TEMPLE BAR Fleet St, Dublin 2. Tel: 01 672 8975 DUNDRUM TOWN CENTRE Tel: 01 298 7299 SWORDS Airside, Swords, Co Dublin Tel: 01 840 8525 BELFAST Level 2, Victoria Square, Tel: 028 9024 9050 www.fridays.ie

Cliffs of Moher & Bunratty Waterford & Kilkenny Cork & Blarney Castle The Giant's Causeway The Ring of Kerry The Aran Islands Connemara & Galway Bay The Wicklow Mountains ONE DAY TOURS TO Blarney Castle NINE DAY TOURS FROM and Gardens DUBLIN
Cliffs of Moher

Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

TEL:DUBLIN + 353-1-856 0045

e-mail: info@railtoursireland.com
in association with
(Irish Rail)

www.railtoursireland.com

Car Free - Care Free

ACADEMY GRAFTON A CADEMY OF DRESS DESIGNING

tm

CREATIVITY 75 YEARS OF CREA TIVITY

(Establ: 1938)

dublin 2 cork blanchardstown dundrum belfast bel

Michelin Bib Gourmand

PROFESSIONAL P RO FASHION DESIGN DIPLOMA 3yrs

rade For the Irish & International Clothing T Trade attern Drafting & Also Short courses in P Pattern e eekends, throughout Sewing, Evenings, W Weekends, year & Summer day courses. 6 Herbert Place, Dublin 2 Te el:+353 16763653 / 6767940 Email: info@graftonacademy y.com .

with over 135 cafes around the world, theres always something happening at the hard rock.
12 Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2 Tel: 671 7777 hardrock.com

www w.graftonacademy .g y.com .

INFLIGHT

Flight Connections
at New York JohN F keNNedY airport
departures

arrivals

From April 3 2013, Aer Lingus will operate from Terminal 5 at New Yorks JFK Airport. While known as JetBlues T5, Aer Lingus will have its own dedicated area within the terminal, allowing for easy check in, baggage handling and seamless connections to destinations within the United States and Puerto Rico. With the move to T5, the minimum connection time from European arrivals to connecting JetBlue markets will be reduced to just 60 minutes. Customers traveling to Ireland will enjoy JetBlue connections as fast as 40 minutes. The award-winning, stateof-the-art Terminal 5 offers great features and amenities, including: Up to 15 security lanes 26 gates with seats aplenty Free Wi-Fi 55,000 sq. feet of great food and shopping Large childrens play area and much more!

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INFLIGHT

Sekonda Chronograph Mens Dress Watch

This watch has a classic design and the chromed metal case is complemented with a brown and cream dial. The one-second chronograph and 24-hour readout are highlighted with cream sub dials. The watch is finished with a brown padded leather strap and is waterresistant to 50 metres. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Celtic Circles Pendant & Earrings Set

by Trinity & Co.
This exquisite set radiates feminine beauty. The pendants gold-plated shamrocks are carefully placed in Celtic circles. The matching shamrock earrings have a clear crystal for extra sparkle. Wear your good luck wherever you go.

Sekonda Crystalla
Womens Watch with FREE matching pendant
A stone set case with mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced with the crystal ball cord bracelet. This watch fits all wrists and is adjusted by pulling open the bracelet and then pulling the beaded strings to your desired size. A free matching pendant makes this set an ideal evening accessory or a perfect gift. Guaranteed for 2 years.

Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality items onboard during July.

Please check your Sky Shopping brochure for all prices philosophy all stars
by philosophy
The best cosmetic is great looking skin. Our scientifically proven skin care is designed to give you the best skin of your life. In three simple steps you can achieve radiantly clear, beautifully bright, impeccably smooth skin. Always be your best.

Daisy Sunshine

50ml EDT by Marc Jacobs

Daisy Marc Jacobs has a sparkling floral bouquet. A fragrance that transports you to a place where positive meets playful, Daisy brings a smile to your face! Sunny, happy, free.

July 2013

| 135

Trip of a life Time | JoSH riTTer

Singer-songwriter Josh Ritter travels the world but he has never seen a place as magical and raw as the Idaho farmland where he grew up chasing dust devils.
he panhandle of northern Idaho, my home state, sits along the Continental Divide, from where the rivers running down the eastern slopes traversing the continent wash into the Gulf of Mexico, while the rivers running west empty into the Pacific. As a boy I was fascinated by this bit of geographical certainty, and hoped someday to choose a stream and follow it somewhere exotic, be it New Orleans or Seattle. Eventually, as a touring musician, I got the chance to do just that. But creeks and streams arent the only tributaries ruled so mysteriously by birth. In the 15 years that Ive been on the road, my hearts blood has always flowed towards home, to the farmland country we call the Palouse. Ill get it out of the way. Idaho is famous for potatoes. Its on our licence plates. But the Palouse region, with its giant rolling hills that resemble Saharan dunes of rich, coffee-black soil, is known for its

Harvest Home
T

For Josh Ritter, above, right, the feather-soft greens and rolling hills of his home country in the Palouse, Idaho, outshine all other places.

lentils, chickpeas and, most of all, wheat. An early spring drive down state highway 95, from the old lumber town of Potlatch to Viola, will open vistas of billowing white hills, the crest of each carrying an almost imperceptible halo of vibrant green as the new blades of wheat pierce their way into the world. By April, this feather-soft green will seem a memory of almost impossible innocence, so vibrant and violently emerald have the fields become, so charged with oxygen is the air. As the earth rolls over into summer and we roll on south from Viola, the fields, dappled by the shadow of a maverick cloud or a solitary red-tail hawk, seem to catch and keep the newly angled sunlight until, cresting Saddle Ridge Road and looking down on Moscow, we can see that the tops of hills have turned golden. It is as if the green was only thinly laid on new brass. Past Moscow, grain elevators, barns and farmhouses dot the landscape. Genesee, a neat and hardy little town, stands away off and, past that,

the world ends and the farmland is swallowed by Hells Canyon. During July and August, when the temperatures climb as high as a hundred degrees and the air is desert dry, the crops bake. This is the season for dust devils, which whirl up from the ground as if cast out of the earth. Like a city kid chasing pigeons, as a boy I would run to try to catch one, but those tiny cyclones were always two steps too wily. In September, the yearly cycle reaches its climax. The giant combines start up and stay running for the rest of the month as farmers and field hands race the weather. The season is beginning to change and, although it is still hot, there is a new wind on the air, blowing chaff and bits of gravel and dirt. The wheat harvested, the hay baled, the stubble is all that remains, and now the stubble is set on fire. For a week the sky is a flaming orange, and the clouds are gilt. The world is filled with smoke. If it should rain, and often there is one good, torrential burst during this time, what pours from the sky is true farmland. You can stand in the rain in the Moscow, Idaho grocery store parking lot and be covered with the dirt of home, and this is what Ive come to say: I travel the world and I see many beautiful things. There is no place as beautiful, as operatic, magical and raw as the Palouse, at harvest time.
Josh Ritters album The Beast in Its Tracks is out now. Josh Ritter and the Royal City Band play at the Iveagh Gardens, Dublin, on July 19; tickets from ticketmaster.ie

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July 2013

hertz.ie/aerlingus

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