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AUGUST 2011 | 1
June 2012
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
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Be our Guest
THE IRISH B&Bs WITH CHARM
KIDS STUFF
How to do Boston
with children
INSIDERS IBIZA
Where to play and stay
COOL STOCKHOLM
A paradise for foodies

SUMMER IN GALWAY
Putting the art into party
AFTER THE OSCARS
Singer Glen Hansard on fame,
fortune and life in NYC
AIB Corporate Banking
AIB - Irelands leading Corporate Bank
to Foreign Direct Investment
Diarmuid ONeill
Head of Corporate Banking Ireland
AIB Corporate Banking
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
Tel: +353 1 641 4808
Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
AIB Corporate Banking Ireland and AIB Corporate Banking are registered business names of Allied
Irish Banks, p.l.c. Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered
Ofce: Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
For International Companies operating in Ireland,
AIB is the Corporate Bank of choice.
Were a corporate bank that thinks globally. We see the big
picture we do everything we can to support visionary ideas.
Were experienced, with dedicated teams working in sectors in
which they have specic expertise. We strive to full all your
banking requirements and overseas companies locating here
have beneted from that for years.
We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment
in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting
up a business in Ireland, getting the nance in place is just
the rst step. Because its not just about supporting business
requirements, its about supporting people, and making the
move as simple as possible.
In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate
Banking still believes in keeping it personal.
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
FEATURES
30 HOME COMFORTS
Theres nothing like
an Irish B&B; Emily
Hourican makes
some house calls
42 MORE THAN
ONCE Oscar-
winning singer/
songwriter Glen
Hansard talks to
Tony Clayton-Lea about his
new solo album, and life in NYC
48 THE BEST OF THE WEST Giant
walking heads and great music?
Galway has it all this summer;
Tony Clayton-Lea reports
60 HAPPY FAMILIES Going to Boston with
the brood in tow? Laura George has the kid-
friendly tour down to an art
70 STOCKHOLMSYNDROME The coolest capital
of the north captured Kate ODowds heart. She
confesses all
Contents June
NEWS
04 ARRIVALS We meet Aer Lingus
passengers at Dublin Airports T2
07 NEWS DIARY This months
must dos
08 NEWS HOTELS Escape
Parisian glamour and quirky
Victorian architecture
10 NEWS RESTAURANTS From
Dublin to NewYork, Eoin Higgins
has the nest in dining
12 NEWS DIARY Festival Fever
Carlynn McCarthy tunes into the
best of this summers oerings
14 NEWS DIARY On the Run
Ben Webb has the update on the
latest tness fad
16 NEWS SHOPPING Sive OBrien
on golf-friendly travel accessories
18 NEWS PEOPLE On my Travels
Best-selling author and creator of
Ross OCarroll-Kelly, Paul Howard,
lets us in on his travelling secrets
20 NEWS PEOPLE Whats in my
Suitcase Frequent yer,
Lulu OSullivans travel essentials
22 NEWS BUSINESS Smart
Traveller Nespresso MD
Brema Drohan on wheres best
for business in Geneva
24 NEWS BEAUTY Bye-bye winter,
hello bare skin, Liz Dwyer reviews
the best DIY tans
26 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life
Bridget Hourican on the latest
in literature
28 NEWS DIARY Book it! Dublin
comes over all literary for June,
Bridget Hourican reports
REGULARS
83 AN INSIDERS GUIDE TO
IBIZA Its party time and Rachel
Montague has all the best
addresses
86 48 HOURS INATHENS If you
have just the one weekend, Jane
Foster knows exactly where to go
89 AERLINGUS INFLIGHT The
latest in onboard news, movies,
music and shopping
112 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Seven-
year-old Amy OGorman
remembers her dream trip to
Disney World, Florida
48
42
Glen Hansard
in NYC
Galway
highlights
86
Greek
splendour
70
Out and about
in Stockholm
Boston
treat
60
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Deputy Editor Eoin Higgins
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Carlynn McCarthy
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Liz Dwyer, Suzie Coen
ART
Art Director Clare Meredith
Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy
ADVERTISING
Account Director Clodagh Edwards
00353 (0)1 271 9634, clodagh.edwards@image.ie
Advertising Manager Noelle OReilly
00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie
Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan
00 353 (0)1 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
Head of PR&Promotions Linda McEvitt
00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie
Oce Manager Tina Koumarianos
Accounts Olga Gordeychuk
Accounts Assistant Lisa Dickenson
BOARDOF DIRECTORS
Managing Director &Publisher
Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie
Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone
Director Ann Reihill
Director Robert Power
PRINTINGBoylan Print Group
ORIGINATIONTypeform
Caramagazine is publishedon behalf of Aer Lingus by Image
Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire, CoDublin,
Ireland, 00353 (0)1 2808415; advertising sales, 00353 (0)1
271 9625; fax 00353 (0)1 2808309; image.ie, email info@
image.ie. Company registration number 56663
Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial
material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine do
not necessarily reect the views of Aer Lingus or Image
Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image Publications Ltd
do not accept responsibility for the advertising content.
Please note that unsolicited manuscripts or submissions
will not be returned. All material is strictly copyright
and all rights are reserved. Production in whole or
part is prohibited without prior permission fromImage
Publications Ltd.
Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.
Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press
Council of Ireland and supports the Oce of the Press
Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit
pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
Image Publications Ltd
PUBLISHINGCOMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010
TOADVERTISE
PLEASE CALL NOELLE OREILLY ON00 353 (0)1 271 9621
OR EMAIL NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Contributors
Johnny Savage is a Dublin based
photographer whose work has been exhibited
both at home and abroad and will feature in
the exhibition, 100 Years of Photography at
Newport in Wales later this year. For Cara, this
month, he went on a jaunt around the country
to capture some of Irelands nest B&Bs, see
page 36, and is pictured here feeding the pigs
at Ballyvolane House in Co Cork, It was great
to meet such a diverse and interesting bunch
of people. The famous Irish welcome is still
alive and as warm as ever.
Ben Webb is a London-based freelance
journalist who has written for the Guardian,
IMAGE Interiors, the Irish Independent and
highbrow mens magazine, GQ. He writes
about interiors, food and sport, a varied
repertoire to say the least. In 1998, he was
awarded the title of Magazine Sports Writer of
the Year in the UK. For Cara, he looked into
the growing obsession with running marathons,
doing triathlons and going to boot camps, see
page 14. I ran my rst marathon in April and
the whole experience was fantastic, he says.
Its nasty but nice and very, very addictive.
Kate ODowd works as assistant editor at IMAGE
magazine, when shes not on an international
assignment for Cara, of course. Kates visit to
Stockholm, see page 70, rolled all her lifestyle
loves fashion, food and gorgeous sights into
one. She went to Arlanda with dreams of a stylish
Scandinavian Utopia and returned home, dreams
intact (she also returned home with a ance,
but thats an entirely dierent story). Being in
Stockholm felt like visiting much-loved friends for
dinner, in their perfect home. I felt instantly happy,
comfortable and welcome and lled with jealous
rage at the thoughts of returning to my hovel at
the end of the trip.
caramagazine.com AUGUST 2011 | 1
June 2012
COMPLIMENTARYCOPY
Be our Guest
THE IRISH B&Bs WITH CHARM
KIDS STUFF
HowtodoBoston
withchildren
INSIDERSIBIZA
Wheretoplayandstay
COOLSTOCKHOLM
Aparadisefor foodies
SUMMERINGALWAY
Puttingtheart intoparty
AFTERTHEOSCARS
Singer GlenHansardonfame,
fortuneandlifeinNYC
ON THE COVER
Photograph of
Saileog Lally of
Inis Mein Restaurant
& Suites by
Matthew Thompson.
4 | JUNE 2012
Arrivals
When family, friends and shermen reunited
at Dublin Airports Terminal 2 recently, Cara
magazine was there to snap all the happy action.
Photographs by Anthony Woods.
First time visitor ANTONIAVOGLER
and her boyfriend GERRIT MATTER
are here to spend their holidays with
his family.
CELINE GARVEY,
right, meets her
boyfriend, stone mason
DANIEL KOPATZ, left,
and his son JARON,
centre and below, before
hitting their favourite
place, Glendalough,
Co Wicklow.
BRIGHIDUNGAR,
left, is reunited
with her daughter
HANNAH, right, who is
just back from studying
in Germany.
German visitor RONJA
KARACHEWSKI is here to spend
some quality time with her boyfriend
who is currently studying in DCU.
Derry native CHRIS KILGORE is
returning to the Emerald Isle after a
six week job search in Australia.
Irishman and NYC pub
owner, KYLE WATSON,
left, is back in Ireland for the
forthcoming wedding of his
brother GEORGE, right.
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The DHC (German Pike Angling) Group
are delighted to be back in Ireland for their
annual fishing trip. Roscommon, they say,
has some of the worlds best fishing.
Washington natives and lifelong
friends, from left to right, SARAH
HOLLANDER, ERIN KAWELL and
SARAH VOISIN keep up a tradition
of reunions in disguise.
Every great city has
an iconic store.
A store which celebrates luxury,
creativity, service and the very best Irish
and International brands
CARA ADVERT:CARA MARVEL 15/05/2012 11:56 Page 1
MT_Cara Mag OL fa.indd 1 17/05/2012 12:00:31
june 2012 | 7
Whats happening dates for your diary
John Ford Ireland Film
Festival Symposium, Dublin
Theres so much more to
lmmaker John Fords work
than The Quiet Man. The
Searchers, Fort Apache and
The Informer for starters.
Check out the great mans
oeuvre at this four-day
tribute to one of the most
inuential lmmakers
of the last century and
a bit of an old cowboy
himself, if this shot of him
on the set of Cheyenne
Autumn is anything to
go by. Book now for the
gala screening of The
Quiet Man with orchestral
accompaniment. Tickets,
80; johnfordireland.org
1
Love Gourmet Week, Limerick
Fifteen of Limerick and the Shannon
regions brightest and best-loved
restaurants cook up a storm as part
of their annual Love Gourmet Week.
Make a beeline for delicious places
like Cornstore in Limerick city and the
Mustard Seed in Ballingarry, where
seasonal menus and local produce top
the bill. Runs June 1-10 with menus
from 35; rai.ie/lovegourmetweek
3
Bavaria City Racing, Dublin
Promising a spectacular
demonstration of the worlds most
exciting motorsports, Bavaria City
Racing, already a roaring success
in other major world cities comes
to Dublin, much to the delight of
petrolheads. Drivers start their
engines on June 3. Tickets, 75.90;
bavariacityracingdublin.ie
5
Shakespeare in the Park, NewYork
Madness, rage and romance descend
upon Central Park from June 5-30.
The Delacorte Theatre runs al fresco
performances of Shakespeares
As You Like It to celebrate 50
years as one of New Yorks most
beloved traditions. Best of all, its
completely free. Pack a picnic;
shakespeareinthepark.org
AeR LINGuS FLieS FRoM DuBLiN To NeW
YoRk DaiLY aND FRoM ShaNNoN To NeW
YoRk MoN, WeD aND FRi.
10
50th International eucharistic
Congress, Dublin
The eucharistic Congress a gathering
to celebrate the eucharist is held
here for the rst time since 1932. The
weeklong Congress will centre on
the RDS with the closing ceremony
on June 17 in Croke Park when a
videolink appearance from Pope
Benedict XVi will be beamed out to
the 80,000-strong attendees. Runs
June 10-17; iec2012.ie
NeWS DIARY
June
17
June in Bloom Floral Festival, Jersey
Its nicknamed The Floral Island and if youre
curious as to why, June, when Jerseys oral
festival runs, is the month to nd out. Take a
tour of the famous Samars manor garden with
expert Tony Russell, visit lavender and rosemary
elds where the herbs are culled and distilled
into essential oils, or discover a secret Victorian
garden. Runs June 18-24; jersey.com
AeR LINGuS FLieS FRoM DuBLiN To JeRSeY oN TueS aND SaT,
aND FRoM CoRk oN WeD aND SaT.
7
8 | june 2012
news hotels
hotel MIssonI, eDInBURGh
Edinburgh has its fair share of classic, old school hotels
but the most dazzling has to be the Missoni. Smack
dab in the centre of sightseeing attractions, shopping
and the university, its the perfect foil to Georgian
splendour. Missoni designs adorn everything from
the stas colourful zigzag kilts to the oral crockery
used at breakfast (and a spectacular afternoon tea), all
leavened with just the right amount of sleek, neutral
furnishings and a hint of irony. The luxe factor doesnt
stop there: in-room Nespresso machines, iPod docks
and a slickly packaged toiletry ensemble give a sense
of extra luxury. Finally, the seasonal oerings at Cucina
downstairs are not only top notch but also available
24/7 through room service. 1 George IV Bridge,
Edinburgh, 0044 131 220 6666; hotelmissoni.com
ClInK 78, lonDon
Clink 78 is a former magistrates court restyled as
a hostel that combines bold 21st century design
with solid Victorian architecture. During your stay,
you can hang out in the TV lounge courtroom
where iconic punk outt, The Clash, went on
trial, or in the internet courtroom where Charles
Dickens devised one of his most famous works,
Oliver Twist. If you want to make a break for it
and see the sights of London, the hostel provides
free London maps and daily walking tours. You
can also head to its travel shop, which oers
discounted rates to some of the citys biggest
attractions. Shared dorms start at 16.50. 78
Kings Cross Road, London, 0044 207 183 9400;
clinkhostels.com
the PoD39, newYoRK
Following the success of their Pod
on 51st Street in New York City,
BD Hotels open a sister Pod on
39th Street this month. The ethos?
Cutting-edge technology and
functional design on the cheap. The
main lobby is a gadget lovers dream;
on one side theres the screening
wall where guests photographs and
videos are shown around the clock,
on the other, an interactive wall of
oversized iPads where you can plan
your next move. If you dont feel like
leaving the hotel boundaries, you can
relax on the beautiful rooftop lounge.
Rooms from $119. 145 East 39th
Street, New York, 001 800 742 5945;
thepodhotel.com/39
If roomservice for one doesnt appeal, then LobbyFriend may be for you. Download the app, create a profle and interact
with fellowguests and staff in participating hotels. Great for getting the lowdown on the best local haunts; lobbyfriend.com
Escape
hotel oRIGInAl, PARIs
Quirky designer Stella Cadentes unconventional style collides
with Parisian glamour in the aptly named Hotel Original Paris.
Set in the heart of historic (and painfully trendy) Paris, just a
stones throwfromthe Bastille metro stop, the hotel is a good
base for exploring the city and accessing Gard du Nord. The
recently revamped rooms boast decorative motifs that range
fromAlice in Wonderland to the nature-inspired interiors of
the forest room. Breakfast can be delivered to your boudoir or
taken in the breakfast lounge. And, of course, in a city where
the pooch is an essential piece of armcandy, pets are welcome
(on request). Single rooms from155. Boulevard Beaumarchais,
Paris, 0033 147 009 150; hoteloriginalparis.com
Parisian luxury and functional NYC design this months hot hotels.
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLIN, SHANNON, CORK AND
BELFAST TOlonDonheAthRowDAILY.
AeR lInGUs FLIES FROM DUBLIN, CORK AND
SHANNON TOeDInBURGh DAILY.
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTO
newYoRKDAILY ANDFROMSHANNON,
MON, WEDANDFRI.
AeRlInGUs FLIES FROMDUBLINTOPARIs DAILY, ANDFROMCORK TO
PARIs, MON, WED, FRI ANDSUN.
Why travel far
for world class care?
To find out more about the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics or the services we
offer, talk to your GP, visit www.orthopaedics.ie or Tel: 01 293 7575.
UPMC Beacon Hospital.
Because you deserve better.
At the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics, our team of Orthopaedic Surgeons,
Rheumatologists and Physiotherapists work together to provide you with rapid access to one
of the most comprehensive orthopaedic programmes in Ireland. All brought to you by the
trusted experts of UPMC Beacon Hospital, a hospital of the University of Pittsburgh Medical
Centre renowned for excellence, innovation and research in orthopaedics.
To access the services of the UPMC Beacon Centre for Orthopaedics, you must have a GP referral.
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all in the convenience of one location.
n Expert physicians n Prompt treatment n World class orthopaedic care
7986_CaraOrthoAdvert_FINAL.indd 1 16/02/2012 13:25
10 | june 2012
KAIKU, BARCELONA
A rmfavourite among locals and ex-pats in-
the-know, Kaiku is renowned for its cool location
(its in the slightly grungy, yet always interesting
Barceloneta) and its laidback lunchtime scene.
Posh tapas fans rave about the freshness of the
seafood, all of which comes fromthe daily sh
auction less than 200mfromKaikus front door,
while others shout about its asparagus fritters:
chunks of fresh asparagus tossed in tempura and
then fried crispy; alone they are delicious, drizzled
in honey and a avour sensation is born one
that keeps Kaikus many fans coming back again
and again. Accompany your meal with another
favourite: Tayaimgut Sauvignon Blanc for a true
taste of Catalunya. Plaa del Mar 1, La Barceloneta,
0034 93 221 9082; restaurantkaiku.cat
AER LINgUs fLieS froM DuBLin ToBARCELONA DAiLy
AnD froM CorK ToBARCELONA, WeD, fri AnD Sun.
Looking for a foodie weekend fing? Food fans, diners and cooks should book now for the seventh annual Taste of
Dublin event, June 14-17, at Iveagh Gardens, Dublin; tasteofdublin.ie
MOMOFUKU, NEWYORK
Currently bleeping loudly on the radar of any
food nut, David Chang has become the worlds
most gushed about pan-Asian advocate bar none.
His creativity is seen as the antidote to what,
for many, has become a staid and predictable
international ne dining scene. Changs rst
Momofuku noodle Bar openend in newyork in
2004; today, he runs a chain of cult restaurants
and cafs and has recently begun to set up shop
globally Toronto and Sydney branches have
opened and whispers abound of a London one
soon to come. if youd like a taste of the original,
a visit to the Momofuku noodle Bar in the east
Village is a must. The signature pork buns have a
reputation for inducing addiction after just one
try ... you have been warned. 171 1st Avenue,
newyork; momofuku.com
YOUNg&FOODIsH, LONDON
Daniel young, the young behind the
young&foodish website and twitter feed, is making
it his business to seek out the best feel-good foods
(ie, spaghetti bolognese, hamburgers, pizza and so
on) and then challenge accomplished chefs to do
even better at his BurgerMonday, PizzaTuesday,
SpagWednesday, WichThursday, fryfriday and
CoeeSaturday pop-up restaurants and events.
Attracting a community of food obsessives, young
is on a constant quest for the next breakthrough
in taste. This month sees roastSunday happening
on June 10 with hot young chef Ben Spalding, right,
who has just nished up with the acclaimed roganic
pop-up in Marylebone. There are three sittings:
noon, 2pm, and 4pm. Book nowas places go quick.
Tune in to youngandfoodish.com, or follow
@youngandfoodish on Twitter for more updates.
NEWs REstAURANts
tHE gREENHOUsE, DUBLIN
Taking charge of a kitchen in a space that has
typically been hurried-by (rather than stopped
at) on the St Stephens Green end of Dawson
Street, finnish chef Mickael Viljanen has
already succeeded in his mission if Dublin
foodie whispers are anything to go by. The
mission? To create a laidback, ne dining
experience using creative combinations of
local ingredients. Viljanen has an elegant
presentational style that is buttressed by a
superb understanding and passion for irish
produce. Creations that stimulate both the
tastebuds and the imagination, such as celeriac
baked in salt and rye, with Skeaghanore
duck hearts are why this restaurant is a
must-visit on the dining lists of Dublins most
peckish. Dawson Street, Dublin 2, 01 676 7015;
thegreenhouserestaurant.ie
Food File
A bite of the Big Apple and a slice of London cool: Eoin Higgins makes his reservations.
AERLINgUs fLieS froMDuBLinToNEWYORKDAiLy
AnDfroMSHAnnon, Mon, WeDAnDfri.
AER LINgUs fLieS froM DuBLin, SHAnnon, CorK AnD
BeLfAST ToLONDON HEAtHROWDAiLy.
Open for Lunch
Mon-Thurs 12.30 to 3pm,
Fri-Sat 12.30 to 5pm,
Dinner Mon-Sat from 5.30pm
& Sunday: 1.00pm to 9.00pm
21 Kildare Street, Dublin 2.
T: (01) 6624800
reservations@townbarandgrill.com
www.townbarandgrill.com
We work with the best
local producers to source
the highest quality fresh
Irish produce. Our aim
is to create the perfect
blend of traditional and
modern cuisine with a
simple elegance.
Cathal Leonard.
Head Chef


12 | june 2012
T
ent, check; lukewarm beers,
check; raincoat, check; festival
tickets, TBC. After the spate of
festival cancellations all over Europe
UK festivals Glastonbury and
Te Big Chill wont be happening
this year and Irish literary and arts
festival Flat Lake has also been
called of its understandable that
festival-goers are wondering what to
do this summer.
Te Irish festival calendar took
a big hit when Oxegen (oxegen.ie)
organisers announced that it wouldnt
be taking place in 2012. An event
with an overall capacity of 85,000
and big names such as Black Eyed
Peas and James Brown strutting
their stuf on stage will be sorely
missed. However, picking up the
baton for big Irish festivals is Electric
Picnic (August 31 to September 2;
electricpicnic.ie), a frm favourite with
families (it has its own festival within
a festival called Soul Kids), who
even have their own campsite. Tis
years line-up has something for even
the most discerning musical palate:
1980s new wave pop icons Te Cure
share the bill with home-grown
trad hero Christy Moore and genius
indie electro outft Hot Chip. It has
all the quintessential large festival
qualities you could ask for: big felds,
huge crowds and world-famous acts
that will have everyone, from your
kid sister to your hipster grandpa,
queuing up to buy tickets.
If the idea of fghting through
crowds and joining the mile-long
queues in front of port-a-loos doesnt
appeal to you, then look at the
smaller picture. Out of the 1,100
festivals taking place in Ireland this
year, 30 or 40 are boutique music
festivals such as Westmeaths music
and arts festival, Body&Soul (June
22-24; bodyandsoul.ie) at Ballinlough
Castle, Clonmellon. Te organiser,
Avril Stanley, believes that smaller
festivals ofer an opportunity for
people to connect. Tere is a sense of
Festival Fever
Big and beautiful
Electric Picnic is a
family favourite.
intimacy and togetherness that gets
lost in big festivals. While boutique
festivals tend to be more niche than
their bigger counterparts, there are
so many out there you are sure to
fnd one that fts. If theatrics are your
thing, Body&Soul is jam-packed
with magical nooks and crannies
for both you and the kids (who
will love bumping into the artists
roaming around the campsite). Tis
years soundtrack includes French
producer M83s saxophone-tinged
electro, St Vincents left-of-centre
pop sound and the ridiculously hard
to pronounce, Django Django.
For extreme sports enthusiasts
with musical leanings there is
Donegals Sea Sessions (June 29
July 1; seasessions.com) in Bundoran,
which ofers BMX and skate shows,
barefoot beach Olympics, and
a bill that boasts the godfather
of modern hip hop, Rev Run (of
Run DMC), Irish group Jape and
recently reformed Manchurians,
Te Happy Mondays.
Festival and event ofcer for
Filte Ireland, Rory McCarthy
believes that smaller festivals are
not only afordable and quirky,
they are also convenient. If you
had to walk from one side of
Glastonbury to the other, it would
take you at least an hour and a very
difcult hour at that.
So whether you prefer the
excitement of the bigger festivals,
want to catch real waves or crowd
surf, theres a festival out there for
you. And remember, dont overlook
boutique festivals in your search for
big experiences they are not small,
they are fun-sized.
1
Castlepalooza, Co Oaly, August 3 5
Great line-ups and art exhibitions in the
grounds of Charleville Castle. If you
need me time there are spas on site and,
if you are more culturally inclined, there
are workshops galore. Weekend pass, 74,
a percentage goes towards the Castle
Restoration Project. Its a bargain with a
social conscience; castlepalooza.com
2
Wilderness, Oxfordshire, UK,
August 10 12 Meshes alternative
music, great food, talks, theatre and
late-night parties. Families arent forgotten
Barefoot Books organise live storytelling,
music and yoga sessions at the Kids Camp.
Set in The Cornbury Estate, its a must
attend for nature and arts lovers. Tickets
from 99.50; wildernessfestival.com
3
Soundwave, Croatia, July 19 23 The
alternative beach party at The Garden,
Tisno, hits all the right notes with this
years line-up, which includes De La Soul
and rising UK wordsmith, Ghostpoet. If you
get bored, you can hop on a party boat and
watch the sun set over Murter Island or take a
day trip to the nearby Kornati islands. Tickets,
105; soundwavecroatia.com
From muddy mayhem to laidback cool, Carlynn McCarthy has the lowdown on
the best Irish festivals this summer.
3ofthebestboutiquefestivals
neWS diAry
14 | june 2012
I
m fying to Hawaii now,
declared Jenson Button, the
former world motor racing
champion, after crashing in the
Malaysian Grand Prix. I have
another race on Sunday a
triathlon called Lavaman. I love it.
Im going to hurt myself because I
deserve the pain after today. I will
make sure I hurt myself extra for
such a bad day.
Its not just glamorous pin-up
heroes like Button who love the
pain of swimming, cycling and
running triathlons or joining the
charity-jogging hordes at marathons
or participating in one of the
fast-growing number of wacky
adventure races and ftness boot
camps. Nowadays, were all at it.
Te demand for boot camps
has gone up dramatically, says
Karl Henry, one of Irelands
leading personal trainers and the
ftness expert on RTEs Operation
Transformation, a TV programme
about putting willing guinea pigs
through the ftness mill. People
want to get healthier and they want
a challenge. Te endorphin rush
is addictive. After a few days they
are buzzing lighter, healthier, less
stressed and more energetic.
With the Olympics approaching,
the vision of fnely tuned athletes
racing against the clock will soon
become a fxture on our TV screens.
Te beauty of joining in anything
from a fun run in the local park to
an all-day, energy-sapping ironman
race is that they are not really races
at all. Yes, the time does matter. A
bit. But for most of us its more
about creating a reason to get ft
and the excitement of taking part
on the day.
At least, thats how it all starts.
Take Daragh Kelly, a 42-year-
old Irishman who three years
ago decided to get ft. He was
overweight, both his parents had
heart conditions and he had not
swam, cycled or run seriously for
20 years. So he signed up to do a
triathlon of a 750m swim, a 40km
cycle and 5km run. I wanted to
be around for my wife and three
children, he says. It was terrible.
Afterwards, I vowed Id never do
another one.
But he did he had caught the
bug and started doing longer and
more challenging triathlons until
he managed to complete his frst
ironman. For the innocent among
you, that is a 3.8km swim, 180km
bike ride, with a marathon of
42km to fnish. It took Daragh 14
hours. I felt fabulous afterwards,
he says. Very proud. It wasnt
about the time. Im no speed
merchant. If I was a car Id be a
spluttering old diesel.
Participating in these events
is very addictive. Im not sure
what it is, but something happens
to you when you start training,
Daragh says. If I dont train for
two days Im a basket case. Tats
why Daragh has signed up to do
another ironman in Austria and
a 650km cycle ride the length of
Ireland from Mizen Head, Co
Cork, to Malin Head, Co Donegal.
Austria should be beautiful, he
says wistfully.
For most of us, an ironman is
frankly a stage too far. More than
OntheRun
Ironman challenges
run all over the
world here,
Sebastian Kienle of
Germany crosses
the nishing line
in Miami, Florida,
to become Rohto
Ironman 2011.
anything, the six-times per week
training plays havoc with family
life. Across Europe, however, there
is a wide range of fascinating and
inspirational challenges to be
entered for adventure fans with
all levels of ftness. Tere are
marathons and half-marathons in
many of Europes major cities.
Dont think too hard. Just do it.
On a lovely, sunny day, I recently
fnished my frst marathon. It was
in Brighton, UK, and I can honestly
say it was one of the most enjoyable
days I can remember. Tiring? Yes.
But worth every minute of pain. All
237 of them
1
The Adventure Race, Gaelforce
West, Co Galway, August 18
The largest one-day adventure
race of its kind is a combination
of cycling, running, hiking and
kayaking. And that means overcoming
obstacles like Killary Harbour, the
famous holy mountain of Croagh
Patrick and leg-sapping bogs;
gaelforceevents.com
2
The Marathon, Berlin,
September 30 The race through
one of Europes most vibrant
capitals is a joy for both runners and
spectators alike. So its popular and
you will have to register a year ahead
unless you get a charity place, which
gives you time to train! As a very at
course its also good for PBs personal
bests; bmw-berlin-marathon.com.
3
The Triathlon, Geneva, July 22
Swimming, cycling and jogging in
the Alps. For rst-timers there
is a short course (500m swim, 20km
cycle, 5km run) but elite athletes in
the ITU Triathlon European Cup face
a tougher challenge a 1,500m swim,
40km cycle and 10km run. In case you
wondered, the water temperature will
be 20-22 C; tig.ch
Tempted to sign up for a marathon?
Ben Webb rounds up the years best events.
3ofthebest...

neWS diARy
Book online at www.guinness-storehouse.com
and get 10% off adult tickets.

, St Jamess Gate,
Dublin 8. Tel. 00353 1 408 4800
T
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TOGO
NEWS SHOPPING
Fairway-bound? Tee o with some golf-friendly
accessories to help your every move.
By Sive OBrien.
16 | JUNE 2012
6
3
4
2
Gadgets
11
7
5
8
1
9
10
1 ELECTRIC TROLLEY Gokart, 294 at gokart.ie
2 GOLF CLUBS Adams Golf, from 96.75 at McGuirks Golf,
Leopardstown Racecourse, Dublin 18 3 ILLUSTRATED GOLF
BAG Mizuno, 135 at progolf.dk 4 SCORECARD HOLDER 12
at bunker-mentality.com5 SUN VISOR Daily Sports, 12.99 at
golf-boutique.co.uk 6 TOUR 360 GOLF SHOE Adidas, 99
at halpennygolf.ie 7 GPS RANGEFINDER Golfbuddy, 349 at
mysatnav.ie 8 GOLF CAP Calloway, 9 at colegolf.ie 9 GOLF
BELT Puma Golf, 29 at amazon.co.uk 10GOLF BALLS
Titleist, 36 (for 12), yespleasegolf.co.uk.
BLARNEY WOOLLEN MI LLS
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bl a r ne y , Co . Co r k , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bunr a t t y , Co . Cl a r e , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Do v e Hi l l , Ca r r i c k o n S ui r , Co . Ti ppe r a r y , I r e l a nd
s ho p o nl i ne a t www. b l a r ne y . c o m
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
STRAP
18 | JUNE 2012
Writer Paul Howard talks to Suzie Coen about his latest
escapades and reveals a strange peccadillo ...
WHERE HAVE YOU
JUST RETURNED FROM?
California. My wife and I
took our summer holidays
early this year and we went
to Sequoia National Park
and then Los Angeles.
MY HEART BEATS
FASTER WHEN I LAND IN
... New York. Its so
exhilarating and such an
assault on the senses. And
it has so many happy
associations for me. My
wife and I got engaged
there. And it was the rst
city I ever visited outside
Ireland and Britain.
LUCKILY, IVE ALWAYS
LIKED PLANES BECAUSE
... I did quite a lot of
travelling when I worked as
a sports writer for the
Sunday Tribune, clocking
up trips to fabulous cities
like New York (eleven
times), Los Angeles (seven
times) and Melbourne (four
times). I managed to see a
huge amount of the world,
which was ironic for
someone who didnt own a
passport until he was 21.
I NEVER LEAVE HOME
WITHOUT ... A notebook
and pen. My best ideas
always come to me during
my downtime and I tend to
come home from holidays
with pages and pages of
scribbled ideas.
CUBA LEFT A MARK
ON MY MEMORY ... And
my arm. While attempting
to snorkel (under pressure
from a tour guide) in Key
Largo, I was stung on my
arm by a medusa sh. It felt
like my arm was being
permanently electrically
shocked. I spent the
afternoon in a tiny eld
hospital on a drip. The
treatment, by the way, was
excellent.
ITS A STRANGE TRAVEL
TIC BUT I ... Never give
back my hotel room key
card. I have hundreds of
the things collected in a
drawer. I dont know why I
do this.
I HAD THE MOST
UNEXPECTED FUN IN ...
The Faroe Islands. Its not
the rst place Id pick for a
holiday but I was sent there
to cover Irelands World
Cup qualier match. It
turned out to be a fabulous
trip. The scenery was
amazing, the weather was
beautiful and everyone
was in good form. Not least
because high winds delayed
our scheduled ight home
and we got to stay and party
for another 24 hours.
OF ALL THE
INTERESTING PEOPLE
IVE MET ON MY
TRAVELS ... Muhammad
Ali was the most
memorable. I also met
Percy Sledge in Jamaica
and he was hilarious.
IN IRELAND MY
HOLIDAY BOLTHOLE
IS ... Dingle in Co Kerry. I
have such fond childhood
memories of the place.
When I was 13, I went to
the Gaeltacht in Muiroch,
just outside Dingle, to
try to learn Irish. I fell
hopelessly in love with the
place. Although my time in
the Gaeltacht didnt last
long after two weeks I
was put on a train home
after I was caught speaking
English Dingle itself has
remained a rm xture in
my holiday life.
While Paul Howard has many literary caps hes an award-winning
journalist, biographer and author of several best-selling, non-fction
books it has been the runaway success of his popular Ross OCarroll-
Kelly series that has made him a household name. Fans will be delighted
to hear that Howard is currently putting the fnishing touches to the
twelfth book, entitled Te Shelbourne Ultimatum, which is due out later
this year. Meanwhile this month sees the launch of Howards latest work,
which introduces us to another potentially cult character. Triggs Te
Autobiography is a spoof autobiography of Roy Keanes much-loved dog,
set during the turmoil-flled post-Saipan days when the worlds press
set up an almost permanent camp on Keanes front lawn. As a former
sports writer who has travelled all over the world, not to mention his own
wanderlust, Howard is uniquely positioned to give us the lowdown on his
favourite places.
3SPORTINGGOALS
1
Derby Festival The Dubai Duty
Free Irish Derby Festival runs
from June 29 to July 1 and is one
of the biggest sporting and social
events in Ireland not to mention
one of the most prestigious horse-
racing events in the world. The Derby
takes place on Saturday, June 30
at the famous Curragh Racecourse
in Co Kildare an unforgettable
experience; curragh.ie
2
Euro 2012 Experience the
excitement of the rst game
of Euro 2012 live in Warsaw
on Friday, June 8, as Greece play
host nation Poland. The match is
followed by the other Group A
opener between Russia and the
Czech Republic; the next day, the
Netherlands face Denmark in Kharkiv
and Germany take on Portugal in Lviv
to begin Group B; uefa.com
3
NBA Finals Check out the
gravity-defying athletic spectacle
that is the opening games of the
championship series of the National
Basketball Association in the US. With
the play-os underway, the team most
favoured to slam-dunk this year is
Miami Heat, whose home stadium is
located in glamorous downtown Miami.
The NBA Finals, as they are known,
begin on June 12; nba.com
On my Travels
NEWS PEOPLE
Turning Darkness into Light
Exhibition & Library Shop
open seven days a week.
Admission times:
Mon-Sat:
9.30am-5pm
Sun (Oct-Apr)
12noon-4.30pm
Sun (May-Sept)
9.30am-4.30pm
Tel: +353 1 896 2320
E: bookofkells@tcd.ie
www.bookofkells.ie
Let Dublin truly capture
your imagination! From
shopping and dining
to visitor attractions,
festivals and events,
Dublin has it all!
Visit Dublins Ofcial
tourist information and
booking ofces
Discover Ireland Centre,
Suffolk Street
14 Upper OConnell
Street, Dublin 1
Also:
Dublin Airport T1 and
Dun Laoghaire Ferry Port
The Book
of Kells
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains.
Spend the day exploring the extensive grounds and gardens.
Open all year round c 5 miles from Cork c Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 c www.blarneycastle.ie c info@blarneycastle.ie
NEWS PEOPLE
20 | JUNE 2012
As a seasoned transatlantic traveller, there isnt
much internet entrepreneur Lulu OSullivan of
giftsdirect.comdoesnt know about clever packing.
She lets Suzie Coen in on her travelling musts.
SILVER PENDANT
Boru, 44.99 at
siopa.com
Whats in my suitcase
PEARL
BRACELET with
heart charm, John
Rocha, 89 at
giftsdirect.com
SEAVITE
ORGANIC
SEAWEED
BODYLOTION
20 at
pharmacies
nationwide
TRAVEL BAGmicro-suede
holdall with leather trim details,
215 at brics.it
VOYAANTI-AGEING
FACESERUM
with organic seaweed
extracts, 55 at voya.ie
MACCROSSWIRES
CREMESHEEN
LIPSTICK 17.50
at The Loop, Dublin
Airport, Co Dublin,
01 814 5735;
theloop.ie
TRAVEL COSMETIC
BAGOrla Kiely, 80 at the
Kilkenny Store, 6-15 Nassau
Street, Dublin 2, 01 677
7066; kilkennyshop.com
DRESS Cos, 99 at BT2,
29 Grafton Street, Dublin 2,
01 296 8400; bt2.ie
SHIRT sleeveless,
sheer and bright,
Simone Rocha,
540 at Havana,
2 Anglesea House,
Donnybrook, Dublin
4, 01 260 2707;
havanaboutique.ie
RETROSUNGLASSES
Prada, 210 at Brown Thomas,
88 Grafton Street, Dublin 2,
01 605 6666; brownthomas.com
SCARF Aisling Duy, 189 at
The Design Centre, Powerscourt
Townhouse Centre, 59 South
William Street, Dublin 2,
01 679 5863; designcentre.ie
NEWBRIDGE SILVERWARE VISItoR cENtRE
Irelands Most Unique Visitor Destination
MUSEUM OF
STYLE
ICONS
WWW.NEWBRIDGESILVERWARE.COM
WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/NEWBRIDGESILVERWARE
Experience the glitz of Hollywood for FREE at the Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre,
Irelands most unique visitor attraction. Home to the legendary Museum of Style Icons, showcasing
memorabilia from icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Princess Diana, Elizabeth Taylor,
Michael Jackson and many more. With great shopping, sumptuous food and the museums
outstanding permanent collection, this is a memorable experience for all visitors.
oPEN 7 DAYS, FREE ENtRY. PARKING FAcILItIES oNSItE.
Directions: Take the M7 from Dublin. Leave M7 at Junction 12 signed
CURRAGH / NEWBRIDGE and follow the signs into town. Turn right at shopping centre.
The Newbridge Silverware Visitor Centre is 600 metres on the right.
220x290 Visitor_Newbridge_ad.indd 1 16/05/2012 16:02:16
22 | JUNE 2012
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
The best locations for doing business in Geneva? Lisa Hughes reports.
Smart TRAVELLER
1
KEEFERS One for the carnivores,
Keefers is regularly voted the best
place in the city for steak. Located in
the heart of downtown Chicago,
the restaurant has three private dining
options so its great for groups.
(20 West Kinzie Street, 001 312 467 9525;
keefersrestaurant.com)
2
ATHENAGREEKRESTAURANT
With its classic Greek feel, Athena
manages to be both cosy (thanks
to the open replace) and spacious, so
youre not on top of your fellowdiners.
Main courses cost as little as $12.99 and
theres a quality vegetarian spread too. (212
South Halsted Street, 001 312 655 0000;
athenarestaurantchicago.com)
3
SEPIA Near the West Loop, Sepia
oers Michelin-star food in an old
print shop from the 1890s. Enjoy
fresh cuisine as you lunch surrounded
by memorabilia of the citys past. Try the
cotechino sausage made in house.
(123 North Jeerson Street,
001 312 441 1920; sepiachicago.com)
4
GT FISH&OYSTER On the citys
north side, GT Fish & Oyster is
the best seafood restaurant in
the midwest. Whether you treat your
colleagues to a round of oysters or play
it safe with a tuna poke, the minimal style
and attentive service of this restaurant is
sure to impress. (531 North Wells Street,
001 312 929 3501; gtoyster.com)
5
PICCOLO SOGNO Piccolo Sogno
(Little Dream) mixes rustic
Italian favourites with aordable
prices and a great atmosphere. Lunch
entres cost from $12-$24 and theres an
impressive line-up of Italian wines. If its a
good day, dine in style on the patio.
(464 North Halsted Street, 001 312 421
0077; piccolosognorestaurant.com)
5
BEST RESTAURANTS
FORBUSINESS LUNCH
INCHICAGO
The Waterford-born managing
director of Nespresso UK &
Ireland, Brema Drohan, travels
weekly on business. Here she
gives tips on doing business in
her favourite city, Geneva.
My favourite city
for business travel
Nespressos HQ is in the
beautiful city of Lausanne in
Switzerland and I y regularly
to Geneva for meetings. I rst
visited Geneva in 1992 when
I joined the Nespresso team
and have been charmed by it
ever since.
Best place for business
meetings I tend to have my
meetings at The Mandarin
Oriental (Quai Turrettini 1;
mandarinoriental.com) which
is a very beautiful hotel with
the most fantastic sta.
Best places to eat
Geneva has more than a
thousand restaurants but Le
Chat-Bott at the Beau-
Rivage hotel (Quai du Mont
Blanc 13; beau-rivage.ch) is
acknowledged as the best
and I have to agree. I love to
dine on the terrace when the
weather is warm and overlook
the Jet dEau, the worlds
tallest water fountain.
Best spot for business
drinks Chez Lucien (Rue
de la Scie 2; chezlucien.
com) is located right next
to the Jardin
Anglais, close to
Lake Geneva.
Its stylish but
relaxed and the
perfect location
for business
drinks as it has
an extensive and
sophisticated
drinks menu.
Best business
hotel The
Hotel President Wilson (47
Quai Wilson; hotelpwilson.
com) is my favourite. It is very
conveniently located with
magnicent views of Mont
Blanc mountains and the lake.
Whats tipping like? Service
charge tends to be included
in the bill, so tipping is not
always required but, like
everywhere, if you have
had a particularly pleasant
experience and feel like
acknowledging it, a little extra
is much appreciated.
Budget business travel
tip I tend not to check in
luggage and have a highly
functional carry-on bag that
fits everything I need.
Getting to
know Geneva Take a day
out and explore the citys
culture. The boat lake or
walking tours are a must if
you like history; take in the
United Nations European
headquarters (Palais des
Nation; unog.ch).
My number one travel tip
Always allow for extra travel
time! You never know where
you may experience delays,
whether it is on the way to
the airport or an unexpected
trac jam in a taxi en route
to a meeting. Online check-in
is a great time saver and I
always use my Aer
Lingus app.
LITTLEBLACKBOOKGENEVA
The latest camera from Nikon is hard to beat with unparalleled
range, the compact Coolpix P510 boasts a 42x zoom, a tiltable
high resolution LCD monitor and full HD (1080p) movie
recording option with stereo sound all the ingredients
you need to preserve your travels as vividly as
possible; in three colours (black, red and dark grey)
approx 471 at all good camera shops.
MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GADGET NIKONCOOLPIX P510
Piccolo Sogno
THE FIRST RULE OF SUCCESS
SURROUND YOURSELF WITH THE BEST
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24 | june 2012
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
If your make-up kit is
taking over your
suitcase, its time
to downsize.
Beauty guru
and jet setter,
Bobbi Brown
shares her tips
for fellow beauty
addicts who are
always in transit.
W
hen youre on the go, there
is nothing worse than being
weighed down by a bulky
make-up bag. Multi-use products are
perfect and I always choose one that
will never break or spill in my luggage.
I love re-sealable plastic bags, like
freezer ones. Theyre inexpensive,
disposable, and you never have to
rummage around looking for a product.
Put your skincare in
one bag; your
face products
(concealer,
foundation,
powder) in a
second bag;
colour (blush, eye
shadow, lipstick)
in a third bag; and
brushes in a fourth.
Keep skincare simple but eective.
Pack a cleanser, moisturiser, and eye
cream; and bring plenty of sunblock and
lip balm if youll be outdoors a lot. I never
travel without my Extra Soothing Balm
and Moisturizing Balm. The Soothing
Balm is truly multi-purpose I use it on
my face, lips, cuticles, even my heels.
I always carry the following bits in
my hand luggage just in case: a creamy,
yellow-based concealer to help brighten
dark under-eye circles; blush, as its the
easiest way to look pretty and radiant
and awake, while bronzing powder/gel
is the perfect antidote when skin looks a
little grey. I always have a stash of elastic
bands for my hair when all
else fails, nothing
beats a ponytail.
And I make
sure to pack
healthy
snacks like
Luna Bars,
rice cakes and
almonds.
nEwS BEAUTY
Treat yourself toafacial at the Spaat Druids GlenResort, ashort drive fromDublin,
where luxurious andever-soeffective Frenchskincare Payot treatments are nowon
the menu. Payot facial withB&Bfor twoadults, 190mid-week; druidsglenresort. com
4
For those
nauseated by the
often pungent
odour of fake tans, Xen
Tan has skirted
the problem
with Scent
Secure Gold,
32, an instant
tinted bronzer,
formulated
with a special
molecule that
surrounds and
blocks the smell
created when the active
ingredient DHA develops.
5
Clarins Instant
Smooth Self-
Tanning, 26.
A multi-tasking
little wonder pot
that smoothes
over lines and
wrinkles, like a superior
primer and then imparts
a soft sun-kissed glow
to the face, which
progressively darkens.
6
St Tropez, the
original cult
tan, has moved
with the times. The
new Naturals range still
delivers the same long-
wear, super-deep tan as
the original formula but
now ticks all the eco- and
chemical-conscious boxes
and has lots of
new, skin-boosting
benets too. naturals
Radiance Self
Tan for Face,
27.95, and
lightweight
Self Tan
Milk, 34.95.
7
If you nd applying
fake tan time
consuming, try
Garnier Ambre Solaire
no Streaks Bronzer
Self-Tanning
Mousse, 21.19,
which soaks into skin
in seconds, without
leaving any creamy
or whiy residue and
instantly gives your
body a sun-kissed
glow, which deepens
with time.
BeautyonThE Go
1
Upgraded to
a light, velvety
mousse formula,
Loral Paris
Sublime Bronze
Self-Tanning
Golden Mousse,
22.49, melts onto
the skin, providing
an instant tan with
a 3D rather than
at brown nish, which
deepens after a few hours.
2
Possibly
the best
facial fake
tan created,
Sisley Super Soin
Autobronzant
hydratant Visage,
91, is quite a
splurge but so
worth it. It adapts
to your natural skin
tone so you never
look too dark or
orange, just perfectly
glowing, and it
doesn t aggravate
sensitivities or clog
pores either.
3
With its
trailblazing
combination
of oil texture
and self-tanning
properties, Dior
Bronze Self Tanning
oil natural Glow,
40, ensures an
unrivalled ease
of application.
The oil adapts
to your skins
pH to mimic
its natural
reaction when
exposed to
the sun for a few
days. A sensory treat and a
burnished glow are yours in
a few hours.
P
H
o
T
o
g
r
A
P
H
B
y
I
M
A
X
T
r
e
e
Six fab fakes that deliver a foolproof kiss of colour.
Liz Dwyer reports.
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26 | JUNE 2012
Te Dream of the
Celt by Mario Vargas
Llosa (Faber & Faber,
18.99) out June 7. It
is the summer of 1916
and Dublin lies in
ruins after the Easter
Rising; the rebel
Roger Casement awaits his death in
Londons Pentonville Prison. A few
years earlier he earned a knighthood
and great fame as a humanitarian
who exposed the barbaric treatment
of indigenous peoples by European
imperialists in the Congo and
Amazonia. Now his petition for
clemency is threatened by the leaking
of his private diary detailing his secret
life as a gay man Latin Americas
Nobel Laureate turns his pen to one
of the most remarkable and enigmatic
of Irish nationalists.
Dublinesque by
Enrique Vila-Matas
(Harvill, 12.99)
out June 16. Samuel
Riba is a successful
Barcelona publisher
approaching 60 and
prone to anxiety
attacks about the digital revolution.
One night he has a vivid dream
that takes place in Dublin, a city he
has never visited. In the dream, a
homage to Joyces Ulysses coincides
with a funeral for the printing
press. Gathering together a group
of friends, Riba travels to Dublin
for Bloomsday to hold his own
funeral for the book Published
three years ago in Spanish, this is
considered the masterpiece of one
of Spains leading writers.
Te Shaman in
Stilettos by Anna
Hunt (Penguin,
8.99) out
June 7. A
travel-love-
spiritual
quest
in the mould of Eat,
Pray, Love. Anna Hunt
was a 29-year-old
Cambridge graduate
and journalist, with
a Marylebone pad and
wealthy boyfriend, when
she took a career break to
live in Peru. After months in
the Amazon rainforest tripping
of her head on hallucinogens,
Shelf LIFE
Stories set in Dublin and tales for the armchair traveller; Bridget Hourican gets reading.
NEWS BOOKS
she meets a charismatic shaman,
who seduces her and invites her to
become his apprentice Today
Hunt writes for the Daily Mail but
also works as a shaman, leading
international retreats.
The Golden
Door: Letters to
America by AA
Gill (Weidenfeld
& Nicolson, 20)
out June 28. Te
worlds most savage
restaurant critics
turns his eye to America but
not to eviscerate. Two of the
happiest times in Gills life
were spent living in the US.
Now he takes another look
at the energetic America
he knew in the 1970s.
Every other small town
in America boasts on its
Welcome sign that it
is home of something
a mountain, a mine,
peaches, barbecues, the
deepest hole ... So thats where
Gill starts in this collection of
linked essays going to fnd the
homes of everything.
Whos reading what?
Dublin novelist Tana French reveals her current literary loves.
What are you reading? Im
rereading Stef Penneys
The Tenderness of Wolves
a beautifully written,
atmospheric murder mystery
thats not quite like any other.
It is set in 1840s Canada,
where a woman made of pure
determination sets o into the
frozen wild to nd her runaway
adopted son, who has been
accused of murder.
Where are you reading it?
Curled up on our sofa in the
evenings, while my husband sits
next to me and keeps me safe by
destroying zombies on his Xbox.
Favourite place to visit?
Crete. Its got amazingly
beautiful beaches, breathtaking
archaeology, lovely people
and good food. Just writing
this makes me want to book a
couple of weeks there
Best book to take on a ight?
Skippy Dies by Paul Murray.
It is dark and lyrical, sad and
funny, with expert plotting, a
vivid sense of the confusion
and intensity of being a
teenager, and razor-sharp
insights into Dublin today.
Youll want to stay on the
plane after your ight lands
so you can keep reading.
Broken Harbour (Hachette,
13.99) by Tana French is
published on July 5.
Stellar line-up of travel writers at Waterfords Immrama Festival of Travel Writing. Get to Lismore, Co Waterford, if you
can, June 7-10, to hear some of the worlds best travel writers speak, including Jan Morris, Colin Thubron, Artemis
Cooper, Paul Clements and Tony Wheeler, co-founder of the Lonely Planet guides; lismoreimmrama.com
FILMTIE-INS
JacktheGiant Killer,
SnowWhiteandtheHuntsman,
Prometheusareall basedonfantastic
reads. LilyBlakesoriginal SnowWhite
ispublishedJune1; Iona&Peter Opies
ClassicFairyTalesshouldappeal to
Giant Killer fans; andfor aliterary
aperitif toPrometheus, tryRobert
Graves TheGreekMyths.
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28 | june 2012
W
hat is it with
June? Bloomsday?
Midsummer? Te
sun? Or at least the
hope of sun Take your pick,
but this is probably Dublins most
literary month and certainly its
most optimistic in terms of outdoor
literary events from the annual
Bloomsday plunge at the Forty Foot
in Sandycove, to an epic Joycean
audio walk from Chapelizod to
Ringsend, to ten days of open-air
Shakespeare in the Iveagh Gardens,
Trinity College and other central
Dublin beauty spots.
Te Dublin Writers Festival
(June 4-10) is bringing a host of top
international literary names to the
capital and inviting you to hear them
in traditional literary venues Irish
Writers Centre, Samuel Beckett
Teatre as well as in more unusual,
maverick places such as Liberty Hall
and the Workmans Club.
Among all the glittering names,
were maybe most excited by Nobel
Laureate Mario Vargas Llosa, wholl
be talking about his latest novel,
Dream of the Celt, in the Gate
Teatre on June 10 (see review on
page 26). Te Celt here is one of
Irish nationalisms most enigmatic
fgures, Roger Casement, who, it
turns out, is as much a hero in Llosas
native Peru. Intrigued? Ten make
sure to book.
Youll also have to book for
the Trinity College Shakespeare
Festivals headline attraction
Indian Tempest performed nightly in
Trinity Colleges Front Square but
most of the other 50 performances
in this outdoor festival are free and
may take you by surprise. If youre
in Temple Bar or St Stephens Green
the week June 6-10, expect to hear
the bard declaimed by professionals
or amateurs. Says festival director,
Paul Testar, there are two main
aims: To bring Shakespeares texts
of the page and out of classrooms
and relocate them into accessible
outdoor spaces, and to bring his
works to audiences that might not
usually have the opportunity to
experience them frst hand.
Taking a classic text and
making it accessible outside the
classroom and to all audiences is
what Bloomsday is about. Not only
Dublin but the world over celebrates
the day, June 16, on which the
action in Joyces masterpiece, Ulysses,
unrolls. Bloomsday has been
celebrated in Dublin for almost
60 years and is now a week-long
festival (June 10-16), involving
swims, picnics, fower shows as
well, of course, as readings, lectures,
and plays. It can be all about the
text, or all about Edwardian food
and costume your choice: get into
Joycean semantics or feathery hats
and cameos.
Tis year is the 90th anniversary
of the publication of Ulysses, but
theres also a special focus on
Dubliners, which was chosen
for 2012s One City, One
Book. Innovative theatre group
Wonderland have put a brilliant
gloss on the traditional Joycean
walking tour theyve turned the
15 short stories in Dubliners into
an audio play, with an ensemble
Book it
Blooming
wonderful on
June 16 the streets
of Dublin come
alive with Joycean
shenanigans.
C
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t
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s
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J
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s
J
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C
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e
/
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o
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r
a
P
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cast, led by Barry McGovern. Put
on a headset and take a map to
retrace the steps of Joyces characters
around the city. Joyce boasted that
if Dublin were destroyed, it could
be reconstructed from his works,
and Wonderland director Alice
Coghlan confrms: Were getting
a lot of locals, as well as tourists,
doing the tour, and theyre telling us
that theyre seeing parts of Dublin
they never knew existed.
And if youd rather sea air with
contemporary writers, then take the
Dart to the former fshing village
of Dalkey, now home to celebs and
jet-setters, for the Dalkey Book
Festival (June 15-17). Te brainchild
of Dalkey local, economist David
McWilliams, this festival is only in
its third year, but since this small
village probably boasts more writers
and journalists per square metre than
anywhere outside Listowel think
Maeve Binchy, Neil Jordan, John
Waters, Vincent Browne and since,
anyway, most Dubliners favourite
outing involves going to Dalkey for
pints and dolphin spotting, then
this is one great way to spend the
Bloomsday weekend.
3BestDuBlinliteraryDos
1
The Dublin Writers Festival, June 4-10nowin
its 14th year and held in twelve venues around
the city centre. readings and discussions with top
international authors, including mario Vargas Llosa,
richard Dawkins, rachel Cusk, Christopher Paolini,
ed Vulliamy, Jeanette Winterson as well as childrens
creative writing workshops. tickets 5 to 20;
dublinwritersfestival.com
2
The Trinity College Dublin Shakespeare
Festival, June 616 both the largest
celebration of shakespeare and the
largest outdoor theatre festival in Ireland.
footsbarn performing Indian Tempest nightly
in trinity Colleges front square is this years
headline performance. tickets 20/22. other
performances are free ; dublinshakespeare.com
3
James Joyces Dubliners, an audio walk
happens daily. the full Days epic (19) from
Chapelizod to ringsend is eight hours long;
the half Days adventure (12) focuses on seven
stories in the city centre, culminating with the
Dead, read in the historic house of the Dead,
where Joyces aunts lived (tea and cakes served);
wonderlandtheatre.com
Bloomsday, Shakespeare, Mario Vargas Llosa?
Looks like June is set fair for literature fans.
Bridget Hourican reports.
neWS Diary
17 South Great Georges Street / 01 707 9596
Find us on Facebook - www.facebook.com/rusticstone.ie.
Follow us on twitter. www.rusticstone.ie
Rustic Stone is innovative, has arguably Irelands most
talented chef in the kitchen, and serves great food.
Paolo Tullio, The Saturday Independent
30 | JUNE 2012
PEOPLE PEOPLE
Ballyvolane House, Co Cork
Justin Green and his wife Jenny moved home to Ballyvolane
in Cork in 2003. Justin was bringing his years at the top of his
profession in Asia, Dubai and as general manager of Babington
House, Somerset, back to the family business. Since then, this
always-elegant and luxurious historic house has increasingly
radiated condence and a sense of well-being.
Ballyvolane is the real deal, he explains. A homely,
authentic country house that appeals to people interested
in historic Ireland. What they nd here is a sense of place
and a connection with the country. They also nd gracious,
spacious drawing rooms, open log res, free-standing antique
baths, gloriously comfortable beds dressed with ne Irish
linen, and all the little extras that elevate the experience. We
have homemade blackcurrant or elderower cordial in the
bedrooms when they arrive; food is all home-grown on the
estate or locally sourced. We keep hens and ducks and can take
guests to collect eggs, which they get a big kick out of.
Dinner is like a scene out of Downton Abbey long, polished
mahogany table, solid silver cutlery, ve courses of excellent
country house cooking. Guests dine together, often nding
common ground in a love of history and culture, against a
backdrop where the wonderful ambience is as carefully-
managed as a theatre production, says Justin. Dimming lights,
setting res, drawing curtains, plumping cushions; there is
constant work going on behind the scenes to produce the right
atmosphere. Irelands magnicent Big Houses were designed
for lavish entertaining, as Justin points out. If we didnt have
people to stay constantly, there wouldnt be the same incentive
to extend and maintain the house and gardens.
Ballyvolane House &Blackwater Salmon Fishery, Castlelyons, Fermoy,
Co Cork, 025 36349; ballyvolanehouse.ie or irelands-blue-book.ie. Rate,
from 95pps.
30 | JUNE 2012
june 2012 | 31
A
sk almost any visitor to
Ireland what they hope to
fnd here, and the answer
will be overwhelmingly
simple. Tey want what
they have been encouraged
to expect a warm welcome; friendly,
charming people; an abundance of
natural beauty, from terrifyingly
windswept to gently pretty. Yes, these
days we do sophisticated Michelin-
starred food, fre-breathing parade
dragons and cutting-edge technology,
but the bedrock of our appeal is exactly
what it has always been.
Even those of us who live in Ireland
want to fnd and experience these
simple things when we travel around
our country. We long for the magic of
a memorable few days away, which are
often as much a step back in time as a
step outside the daily routine.
And yet, simple though this wish
list sounds, it is of course anything but.
Indeed, there was a time, not at all long
ago, when the legend of Irish hospitality
looked like it might fade into an
indiferent past. When being rich
looked like it might make us careless,
and being good at chasing money
suddenly meant we werent so good at
sitting still and chatting any more.
A surge of new hotels many
aspiring to the boutique label,
others appearing under a variety of
international brands momentarily
dislodged the more traditional sources
of Irish hospitality, namely the B&B.
Te appeal of fock wallpaper and Alice-
in-Wonderland furniture, or 24-hour
room service and luxurious spas, cast
the more homely appeal of many B&Bs
into the shade.
Tat moment may just be over. It
seems that homely is just what
Home
Comforts
The Irish B&B experience is as much about the owners the
welcome, the chat, the food, the insider tips as about the place.
Though these days, as Emily Hourican points out, the place can be
something pretty special too. Photographs by Johnny Savage.
32 | june 2012
people
Number 31, Dublin 2
This Sam Stephenson-designed urban gem
lives easily with its contradictions. A classic
Georgian house incorporating 1960s modernist
sensibilities; a city-centre guest house with a
country-warm welcome; a one-time family home
that hosted some of the greatest celebrities
of the era: Charlie Haughey, Henry Kissinger,
Grace Kelly and Ted Kennedy all attended the
architects legendary parties. Its a tradition of
hospitality that lives on.
Number 31 oers super-luxurious Hastens
beds, with linen by Matteo, and a breakfast
deemed the best in Ireland in 2008 by
Georgina Campbell (think a refectory-style
table set with homemade rhubarb and
strawberry compote, homemade granola
and cereal, natural yoghurt, followed by a full
Irish, scrambled egg with smoked salmon,
eggs Benedict, kippers, or maybe a bowl of
porridge). Meanwhile, hosts Deirdre and Noel
Comer take their duties as ambassadors for
Ireland with charming seriousness. We are
meeting people constantly and engaging with
them. We understand what a welcome means,
explains Noel, above, who retired from the
Army in 1996 to run Number 31. Its a very
traditional thing in Ireland you bring someone
into your home and look after them. This
looking after involves tips on where to go and
what to see in Dublin, and a comprehensive
map, showing spots such as Marshs Library
that might be slightly o the beaten track. We
are the rst port of call for many visitors, and I
understand that commitment to send them o
in a positive way. After all, rst impressions last.
Number 31, Leeson Close, Dublin 2, 01 676 5011;
number31.ie. Rate, from 80pps.
many travellers want. A piece of
authenticity, a bit of chat with
their hosts, the beneft of vast local
knowledge, and the opportunity to
sink into a comfortable armchair,
in front of a warm fre after a days
exploring.
At the same time, a quiet
revolution has been taking place
within the B&B sector itself. A
distilling of quantity into quality.
In 2001 there were 3,915 registered
B&Bs in the country, with 16,242
rooms between them. Ten years later,
that number had fallen to 1,907, with
8,059 rooms. Tose that survived
the cull are generally the best and
most dedicated. Occupancy of these
remaining rooms has risen slightly
in the last years, from 27 per cent
in 2010, to 31 per cent in 2011. Its
an upward trend that looks set to
continue, as Filte Ireland throws its
weight behind these B&B owners,
with an initiative called New Vision,
aimed at upping the quality and
visibility of whats on ofer.
However, there are of course a
staunch number of B&Bs that need
no help at all. Where the owners
understand fully the nature of what
they have, and where the creation
of a delightful home from home
for their visitors is second nature.
Tese B&Bs can be anything from
a magnifcent stately home, to a
tiny whitewashed cottage or sleekly-
designed architectural delight, and
Ireland now has many of them. Tere
is no blueprint for their success
each is unique, inspired by its local
area, personal history and geography.
Some are deeply luxurious, others
demonstrate a charming simplicity.
What they have in common is the
level of dedication shown by those
who run them. Tese hosts are so
full of enthusiasm for their house,
gardens and local area that they
naturally go much further than
an extra mile to communicate this
passion to guests.
We cannot count on the weather
in this country, but we can count
on the warmth and generosity of
welcome in the best places to stay.
From an increasingly impressive
selection, we have chosen just six
fantastic and very diferent
examples.
BOOK NOW!
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ENJOY THE BEST VIEWS OF DUBLIN
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34 | june 2012
people
Inis Mein Restaurant & Suites, Co Galway
Everything we do stems from our location. We are 15 miles o the
west coast; remote, isolated and exposed to the elements. The
beauty of the landscape and terrain is what informs us. So says
Marie-Thrse de Blacam, pictured above, with husband Ruair,
and indeed the breathtaking appeal of Inis Mein Restaurants &
Suites is precisely this: it sits eortlessly into its stunning natural
environment. Each suite has 10m-long continuous windows, in
order to connect with the outside, interiors are natural wood and
lime-plastered walls, with soft furnishings made from cashmere
and baby alpaca from the islands own knitwear factory.
Marie-Thrse and Ruair encourage their guests to get out
and explore the rugged terrain and wildlife of the island, providing
light-weight bikes, binoculars and a freshly-cooked hot-pot lunch
for expeditions. The Restaurant, meanwhile, which the couple
runs with the help of Ruairs cousin Saileog Lally (see our cover),
is increasingly being recognised internationally (the Financial
Times lauded it as one of the twelve best in the world last year),
and pursues the same commitment to the natural bounty of Inis
Mein. Local lobster, crabs, scallops and sh are to the fore of
our menus, Marie-Thrse explains. We grow almost all our own
vegetables, and we keep pigs, chickens, even a cow. Wonderful
natural ingredients are presented simply and without fuss, eaten in
a dining room with panoramic views of the island and ocean, where
the sky is often ooded with pink as the sun sets slowly behind the
Connemara mountains. Once there, it is hard to imagine a more
heavenly spot.
Inis Mein Restaurant & Suites, Aran Islands, Co Galway, 086 826 6026;
inismeain.com. Rate, two nights in a suite, from 500, including breakfast,
transfer and orientation.
34 | june 2012
people
Sourced in the Burren.
Farmed only for us.
Aged to perfection.
Pasture to plate.
ely wine bar, 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2
ely bar & brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1
ely gastro pub, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2
book online or call + 353 1 633 9988
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ely ad for Cara May2012.indd 1 10/05/2012 20:24
36 | JUNE 2012
PEOPLE
The Green Gate, Co Donegal
One must love the wind, the storm, the water. Such is Paul
Chatenouds prescription for a happy life in this remote corner
of Donegal, without TV or internet access. He originally came
to The Green Gate to write, having sold his Parisian bookshop.
After ten years, I had no money left; I said what can I do? I will
open a B&B Not necessarily the most promising of starts.
However, Paul soon found an unexpected level of enthusiasm.
People love it. I love it. I meet people from different countries,
of different ages and backgrounds. Clearly, the interaction
satisfies the writer in Paul, who continues to produce work last
year he published an essay, about everything: love, life, death,
politics, smoking, drinking.
The Green Gate, roughly a kilometre and a half outside
Ardara, is a tiny, whitewashed cottage with just four bedrooms,
overlooking the ocean. Rooms have an almost monastic feel
clean and bare and breakfast is a traditional fry, with 20
different types of homemade jam and marmalade. But what
most visitors seek here is the uninterrupted quality of peace.
Many return year after year, searching for what Paul is able
to provide simplicity that is almost Spartan. My very first
customer still comes back every year, he tells me. People
come to rest. We have time to talk, and I learn a lot thanks to
them. It seems Paul is continuing a very Irish tradition of
long talks over turf fires, generous hospitality and an effortless
exchange of cultures.
The Green Gate, Ardara, Co Donegal, 074 954 1546; thegreengate.eu
(no internet/email). Rate, from 45-55pps.
PEOPLE
36 | JUNE 2012
june 2012 | 37 june 2012 | 37
38 | JUNE 2012
PEOPLE
Kilgraney House, Co Carlow
The eclectic inuences of Kilgraney house are immediately
apparent think carved wooden gures from the Far East in
the six spacious bedrooms but they blend into the overall
impression of comfort, space and serenity.
The aesthetic devised by owners Bryan Leech and Martin
Marley is simple items they love, sourced from their many years
abroad, carefully worked into the beauty of this classic Georgian
country house. Its a recipe that delivers an exotic feel that is yet
discernibly Irish.
Recently, Bryan and Martin have restored and extended the
outbuildings and gardens, creating a magnicent aromatherapy
centre around the plants, herbs and owers they grow. There
is a herbal tea walk in the kitchen garden, explains Bryan, a
herbal medicine garden, where we grow herbs to treat anything
from sleep disorders to skin complaints; an oncology garden,
in honour of my mother, where we have plants currently used
or under consideration to use in cancer treatments. A rose
garden, cosmic herb garden and monastic garden each add their
own lustre to this unique and lovely setting, which includes an
outdoor thermal pool and relaxation area.
And of course, the benets make their way into the magnicent
meals cooked and served at Kilgraney. We make our own
vinegars, our own sorbet using various teas, we have our own hives
and make honey. As well as being talented interior designers,
horticulturalists and chefs, Bryan and Martin understand the
need for a sound grasp of psychology. You need to gure out if
someone needs nurturing or to be left alone, says Bryan. There
is a good deal of skill involved in getting the level of interaction just
right. By the end of the season, we are usually exhausted and ready
for some downtime, but truly, the house is dead without people.
Come spring, we cant wait to reopen.
Kilgraney House, Bagenalstown, Co Carlow, 059 977 5283;
kilgraneyhouse.com or irelands-blue-book.ie. Rate, from 85pps.
PEOPLE
38 | JUNE 2012
Whirlpool Galaxy 40 x 40 Spiral of Life 24 x 24 Starburst 40 x 40
Roisins artworks are a great example of contemporary Irish art.
H.E. Michael Collins, Ambassador of Ireland to the U.S.
Mesmerizing, beautifully exquisite art.
Loretta Brennan Glucksman, Chairperson American Ireland Fund
...Inspires us to connect with the light within, creating more peace and joy
in our lives.
Mark Burnett, TV Producer (Emmy Awards, The Voice),
Roma Downey, Actress (Touched by an Angel)
Inspiring! Deepak Chopra, NY Times best-selling author
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PEOPLE
40 | JUNE 2012
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Clients are mainly walkers and cyclists, bent on discovering the
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IntervIew
42 | JUNE 2012
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He hit the limelight with The Commitments, scooped an Oscar for
Once, and now his new solo album is about to launch, but still
singer/songwriter Glen Hansard remains a most reluctant celebrity. He
talks to Tony Clayton-Lea about life in NYC, and
how he hankers after that little bit of land
MOREthan
I
t is no small irony to Oscar-winning
singer/songwriter/performer Glen
Hansard that sometimes major success
comes to those who, quite like himself,
he admits, would rather whittle wood
and talk to themselves in ramshackle
sheds miles away from anywhere. Its
an even bigger irony when the type of
success many might think theyd like visits
them twice. Ones response to success has
to be fuid, reckons Hansard. Te answer
I give now might not be the answer Id give
tonight or in the morning.
Over 20 years ago, Hansard a refective
man now in his early forties, sporting a
beard, fecked with grey, and something of
an icon for the species known as the Irish
singer/songwriter featured in director
Alan Parkers treatment of Roddy Doyles
Te Commitments. His performance (as
Outspan Foster) was notable for being the
least grandstanding of the ensemble cast and
probably the most naturalistic, yet the idea
of a sequel made him uneasy. Tere was, he
avers, frustration where almost overnight
he became a celebrity. Such frustration
came about due to not being recognised
for his songwriting the very thing that he
loved the most was sidelined by the hype
surrounding the movie.
I didnt deal with it well at all with Te
Commitments, he says of his instant rise in
profle. It was only in Dublin, though;
at frst it was great being called Outspan
but then it got very wearing. And so
Hansard disappeared from flms, television
and follow-ups, and instead concentrated
on music.
It was always going to be music for
this most passionate of singer/songwriter/
performers. He left school in the mid-1980s
to fulfl his ambition of being the new
or the next Bob Dylan/Van Morrison/
Leonard Cohen. I wanted everything, he
recalls of his teenage years spent busking
on and around Grafton Street. I wanted
to be huge, famous, to be Bob Dylan, Van
Morrison, Leonard Cohen, or a mixture
of all of those guys, to live like them, tour
like them, into my seventies. Tese were my
childhood goals and they havent changed.
A rooted, world-wise Dublin childhood
spent hanging around Moore Street (his
mother once worked from a stall there) and
its environs toughened up an Artful Dodger-
like Hansard to the point where an old head
started growing on young shoulders. By the
age of 17 he had left home to rent a fat on
the outskirts of the city, giving him an air of
command and ownership.
Busking on Grafton Street eventually
led to forming Te Frames, a band that
gained an intense, ever-growing fan base
predicated on Hansards often electrifying
stage presence and his tendency to hoist
himself up as spokesperson for a generation
(a position that gained him as many media
friends as foes). Hansard and Te Frames,
nonetheless, quickly rose to the top of the
pile, in the process becoming standard
bearers of an attitude that didnt defne
success in terms of record sales and/or
securing a major label record deal. And so
it continued.
Hansard cared (and still cares) little for
the star tag. He is, as we have hinted, a
reluctant celebrity the nature of which he
understands only too well. Te arc of his
music career has travelled from accepting
coins from passersby on Grafton Street, to
groundwork with Te Frames, to receiving
Once
IntervIew
44 | JUNE 2012
an Oscar in Hollywood for the indie
movie, Once, to success with the post-
Once group, Te Swell Season, to a
forthcoming solo album. Trough all
of these career points, he has aimed to
be grounded, earthed, with no airs or
graces from the associated success.
I would say that all of us in our
lives want success in whatever it is we
choose to do, the 42-year-old singer
reasons. Where it gets interesting,
though, is that when you go after
your dream the journey itself is a
natural organism you cant really
control it. You can sabotage it, of
course, at certain moments. And then
there are other moments when youre
going to fre that arrow; and there
are moments where that arrow is
going to go a lot further than you
had ever thought. You have no
control over that, but I have to say
that when we made Once, and we
took it to Sundance, we couldnt
believe our luck.
Were not so certain that luck has
much to do with it Once is a gem,
one of those little flms with a big,
booming heart, bolstered by realistic
performances from Hansard and
co-star (and former real-life partner)
Markta Irglov, and a batch of
tender songs one of which, Falling
Slowly, nabbed the Oscar for Best
Original Song in 2008. Its showing
at the Sundance Film Festival in
2007 swept up all who watched it
in an all-encompassing yet gentle
embrace. In its wake, came the band
Te Swell Season (which featured
Irglov and members of Te Frames),
and on the horizon right now is
Hansards debut solo album, Rhythm
& Repose, and accompanying solo
shows around the world.
Recorded in New York (where
Hansard now lives, in a rented
apartment in the East Village), the
album highlights a maturation
process that is measured and
meditative. It is as honest in song as
Hansard has ever been (and thats
saying something), a collection that,
like its creator, once again refuses
to wear masks or play games. In the
search for something to truly connect
(or reconnect) with, it seems that
Hansard had been yearning for some
years to spend time alone with
himself, his family and write about
the experience.
I had played a show in Iceland
with Te Frames in 2010, and came
to the realisation that as much
as I loved it and them, what was
missing was a re-establishment of
my relationship with my family
my brothers, my mother. My father
had died a couple of years ago, and
I knew I had never really dealt with
that. I realised I just needed not to do
anything for one year.
Describing it as a kind of epiphany
(I just needed to take some time
of and get to do regular things, like
going to the doctor for a check-up!)
Hansard on his return to Ireland
simply pulled down the shutters.
Te nomadic lifestyle is brilliant,
the best ever, but there were loads
of little things that werent getting
done. And in order to fx those,
they required a slow unwinding
that takes months. Usually, when
I take time of, the frst two weeks
are spent in panic because theres no
schedule. A month goes by and Im
still panicking. After two months,
however, you begin to wind down.
You start to see the wood for the
trees, patterns begin to emerge that
are unfamiliar and that are actually
very good for you. I needed to re-
energise, and that meant taking
time away from being on a tour
bus and being in front of, mostly,
strangers every night.
More impactful, perhaps, was that,
around this time, Hansard turned
40. Something clicked, he smiles,
shaking his head with a mixture of
sigh and revelation. I have to admit
that Im still fguring out exactly what
it was that clicked, but I realised that
my time somehow meant more to
me than it had ever before. I wanted
to spend time around people that I
really cared about, and doing things
I really wanted to do. I love music, it
has been my life, but the last thing I
wanted it to become was any kind of
force that pulled me away from being
grounded.
Tere has been, also, he admits
(somewhat sheepishly), a competing
instinct over the past few years about
wanting to be a father, with a bit of
land Te need to engage with
normal living
And so, in bitterly cold January
2011, Hansard found himself
The New York
dreamer Hansard
appreciates the
positivity he nds
in the city.
My father had died a couple of years ago, and
I knew I had never really dealt with that. I just
knew I needed not to do anything for one year.
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46 | JUNE 2012
in Manhattan with a relatively
uncluttered mind and a few songs.
Linking up with musicians that
he hadnt played with before (he
describes them analogously as a
shoal of fsh whose direction can
change in a heartbeat) he suggested
they book a studio in order to record
the songs with the minimum of
instrumental fuss.
Despite not knowing the
musicians, the feeling of playing
songs and getting them right the
very frst time, he recalls, made the
interaction a wonderful experience.
After the second visit to the studio
he realised he was in the middle of
making a solo record. I was living in
a diferent city, in a great apartment,
in a very diferent headspace.
Also, as it transpired, he was
recording and living in the city
at the same time as the rehearsals
for the musical version of Once
(which has been nominated in
eleven categories in this years Tony
Awards). It allowed him the luxury
of being able to stick my head in,
and ask how things were going.
His initial reaction was panic,
he says, when he frst heard that the
highly successful movie was being
transformed into a Broadway musical.
I tried to talk John Carney [director/
writer] out of doing it, but he was
smart about it, suggesting some
Glen Hansards
favourite ...
... BAr the Scratcher (208 East
5th Street at Cooper Square; 001
212 477 0030) is an Irish Bar without
any of the ags or dead writers on
the wall. It has an old Bowery dive
bar feel; its quiet most nights which
I like, and Renata the barmaid will
talk your troubles away.
... reStAUrAnt Ballatto (55 East
Houston Street, between Mulberry
St and Greene Street; 001 212 274
8881) is an Italian restaurant that
has survived the gentrication of its
surroundings, and used to be an old
local for the likes of Jackson Pollack,
Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, David
Bowie, and so on. It serves great
homemade Italian food in a room
that feels timeless, yet haunted.
... new YOrK CItY AttrACtIOn
Cycling the river from one end of
Manhattan to the other, dipping
into Central Park on the way up,
and then on up to the George
Washington Bridge; back through
Harlem and down the East river,
then over the Williamsburg Bridge
into Brooklyn and back. It takes the
day, but you get a sense of all the
changing neighbourhoods, which is
what Manhattan is all about.
... BOOKS Forty Stories by
Anton Chekhov is a wonderful
collection of the Russian writers
shorter observations. I love his
writing he steps out of the way
of his work and lets the plain word
and description take hold in the
readers imagination.
... MUSIC All is Well by Sam
Amidon. This record was released in
2008, and it
still brings me
huge comfort
it speaks
across time
somehow.
Sam has taken
some very old
traditional
folk songs
and reworked them into new and
delicate phrasings. Its the perfect
long-ight album for me Im often
a nervous yer and listening to
this somehow makes the ight go
smoother. I revisit this album over
and over again. All is well, indeed.
No fuss Hansard
has been enjoying
the freedom and
spontaneity hes
found through
recording with
new musicians.
things for it that really assisted in the
transformation. When I frst saw it
in rehearsals, I was amazed. And the
fnished item is, with my hand on
my heart, a beautiful piece of work.
And more importantly, the stage
version now owns its own place
they have taken the flm and brought
it to a whole other place. So theres
a great sense of relief and admiration
about it.
Relief and admiration it is
surely what those who have followed
Hansards career from his early
Frames days now feel about him.
Relief that, despite being thrust into
the public eye not just once (if you get
my drift) but twice, the singer hasnt
gone of the rails. And admiration at
the way in which he has negotiated
the potentially dysfunctional route
from busker to Oscar winner with
integrity and honesty.
He puts some of this down to
the inherent vibrancy of New York.
Tere are a lot of green lights in the
city, in the sense that its all go. Te
Native Americans claim that its very
charged, so Manhattan has this sense
of amplifcation, and whatever energy
I needed when I went there last year it
really gave it to me.
Even if Once hadnt happened,
Im sure the city would have been the
same for me, he reasons, stroking
his beard for full sage-like efect. Its
a city of excellence, because the best
always gravitate towards the centres.
If you want to swim in that pond,
you have to be good. You can wing
it, but only for so long. Its a city of
grafters, too.
Well, it takes one to knowone
Rhythm & Repose is released June 19.
Glen Hansard performs at the following
Aer Lingus destinations in June/July:
Chicago (The Vic, June 26), New York
(The Beacon Theatre, June 29) and
Bologna (Botanique Festival, July 18). Visit
glenhansardmusic.com for further details.
Once continues (on an open run) at
the Bernard B. Jacobs Theatre, 242 West
45th Street, New York, 001 212 239 6200.
Visit shubertorganization.com/theatres/
jacobs.asp for further details. The Tony
Awards ceremony takes place at NYCs
Beacon Theatre, June 10.
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Suffolk Street, Dublin 2
Tel. 01 679 3656
www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm
Fri: 8.00am-12.30am
Sat: 8.00am-12.30am
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Summer in galway
48 | june 2012
Some of the folks
behind the show
stopping Macnas
Parade, left, Sharon
OGrady, producer, and
Noeline Kavanagh, right.
Opposite, the sun never
sets on party town.
june 2012 | 49
of the
If its culture and craic youre after, then Galway is the place to
head for this summer. Tony Clayton-Lea tunes into the City of
Tribes. Photographs by MatthewThompson.
West
the
Best
Summer in galway
50 | june 2012
W
hen it
comes to
clout, the
Galway
Arts
Festival
leaves
most other arts festivals in Ireland
reeling in its wake. One of Europes
most important cultural events,
one of the most signifcant arts
festivals anywhere, provocative,
challenging, diverse and inclusive,
the biggest, most exciting, most
imaginative explosion of arts
activity this country has. And how
about this from the UKs Guardian
newspaper in 2008: Te joy of
Galway Arts Festival is that it covers
the artistic waterfront without,
like its famous Scottish sister
(Edinburgh), ofering us a deluge.
Ive rarely encountered a better
curated festival or one that more
exhilaratingly mixed the local and
the international.
As you can tell from the above
quotes culled from various media
over the years, the festival, founded
in 1978, has become a pivotal
showcase for Irish and international
arts. Although locally it might be
favoured for its remit of defning
the cultural expression of the City
of Tribes (as Galway is known),
internationally it is viewed as a
fagship arts festival that is always
open to initiating, commissioning
and producing new work.
Going back over old ground,
then, is not something the Galway
Arts Festival (GAF) does a point
proven by last years magnifcent
one-man theatre production,
Misterman (featuring actor Cillian
Murphy), which premired at the
festival and moved on to wow
DAYTRIP If the buzz of Galway gets a little bit too much to handle (theres a lot going on, so it might!), then less than
80kmnorth-west of the city is the serene harbour village of Roundstone. Think a picturesque setting, excellent
seafood restaurants, craft shops and a quirky caf or two; roundstone-connemara.com
Clockwise from
top left, the
man behind
the festival,
artistic director
Paul Fahy;
scenes from
Macnas HQ; the
workshop; and
the ideas board.
Summer in galway
june 2012 | 51
Gerry Mulholland,
pianist, shoots
the breeze at Tigh
Neachtain.
Summer in galway
52 | june 2012
audiences in London and New
York, as well as picking up several
prestigious awards.
Our starting point every year is
quality to us thats key, says GAF
artistic director Paul Fahy, who frst
acquainted himself with the festival
as a volunteer in 1987. Subsequently,
Fahy was GAFs publicity manager
for a number of years, before being
appointed artistic director in 2005.
Some festivals around the world
might work around a theme, but I
look for high quality in everything.
Were pitching for that all of the
time, especially high quality work
that people wouldnt necessarily see
in Ireland except at festival time.
Tat, and the fact that we dont
repeat ourselves, keeps us unique.
We also create original
productions, such as last years
Misterman, and DruidMurphy,
which is showing this year. We
do that across the art disciplines,
not just in theatre. Tat sense of
origination makes Galway not just
attractive nationally, but also across
the world. Tats why we have such
a high number of international
visitors to the festival they know
theyll see things in Galway frst.
Fahy is, of course, exceptionally
well placed to comment on such
matters. He has experienced
the festival from most if not all
perspectives when one efectively
steps from the shadows into the
Above, pub
sessions theres
always music
somewhere in
Galway; Peco
McLoughlin on
guitar, and top,
slate craftsman
Daith OGorman.
Splurge Having featured rather
ostentatiously in last years hit
movie, The Guard, the citys
designer-driven g Hotel continues
to thrive almost six years after
opening. Great service, cool design,
but itll cost you. (From 190pps
for two-night B&B/one dinner;
Wellpark, Dublin Road,
091 865 200; theghotel.ie)
midprice If youre looking to
combine a modicum of leisure
with some business (or, indeed,
vice versa), look no further than
radisson Blu galway. Typically
smart design interconnects with all
youll need in a city centre hotel.
(From 135 for a double room with
breakfast; Lough Atalia Road, 091
538 300; radissonhotelgalway.com.)
Budget Nestled on the banks of
the River Corrib, the Herons rest
is an award-winning B&B that fuses
contemporary chic with an eight-
option breakfast sourced from local
organic/artisan food producers.
(From 65pp; 16a The Longwalk,
091 539 574; theheronsrest.com)
GALWAYMUSIC Is there such a thing as Galway music? Best leave that question for the academics to answer, but if
youre looking for a particular type of boisterousness that informs as much as it entertains, look no further than bands
such as The SawDoctors, The Walls and The Kanyu Tree, and venues such as Risn Dubh, which is the undisputed
best live music venue in the city, county and province.
Stay at ...
g Hotel
Summer in galway
The French Language and Cultural Centre in Dublin
www.alliance-francaise.ie info@alliance-francaise.ie
Alliance Franaise, 1 Kildare Street, Dublin 2, Ireland.
Tel. 01 676 1732 Fax. 01 676 4077
French Courses
Summer term: 5 June - 21 September
for adults,
teens, kids
& toddlers
www.simtech.ie
info@simtech.ie
Have you got what it
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OBrienandAssociates_QP_3_Layout 1 11/05/2012 18:02 Page 1
SUMMER IN GALWAY
54 | JUNE 2012
A DAY ON-BOARD
spotlight, the onus of responsibility,
he says, alters radically.
Its a diferent kind of reality.
What was great is that I knew
not only how the festival worked,
but how it was so respected and
afectionately held in the heart
and mind of Galway. Tis is very
important you cant buy that
sense of ownership. Galway people
play such an important part in
what we do.
While over a quarter of the
audience of 150,000 or so each
year, reveals Fahy, constitutes
international visitors, GAF enjoys
such a level of loyal and repeat
national customers that its no
surprise other arts events look on in
envy and attempt to replicate some
of the vibe of the Tribes.
Galway is a lovely, intimate
place where people can get around
on foot very easily, so the city
frames the festival very well,
Fahy says. I mean, if you were for
some reason dropped into the city
from Mars, and landed on Quay
I
n the nine months since I had the privilege of a
one-day sail with the crew of Sanya, one of the
six competing yachts in the Volvo Ocean Race,
both female vessels, Sanya and I, have been on
our own turbulent voyages.
I discovered I was pregnant with my rst child
the morning I was due on-board the 70-foot racing
machine in Alicante just weeks before the race
started and knew little of the erratic hormonal
seas that lay ahead. The Chinese-Irish backed
Sanya and her crew were also in for a nine-month
rollercoaster ride, as she began the gruelling race
across 72,000km of the worlds most treacherous
seas, via Cape Town in South Africa, Abu Dhabi,
China, New Zealand, Brazil, Miami, Lisbon, and
ultimately across the nishing line in Galway Bay.
Despite having sailed since I was little more
than a baby, stepping on-board was intimidating.
Hanging out on the guardrail with the crew, I
learned about what lay ahead from hurricanes
to hallucinations, sleep deprivation to food
shortages, hypothermia to pirate attacks, every
day is a journey into the extreme.
Everything is overseen by Kiwi skipper, Mike
Sanderson, who, at 34 years old, became the
youngest skipper to win a Volvo Ocean Race in
the 2005/2006 outing. Sanderson was just back
on Sanya after being rushed to hospital a week
before for an emergency appendicitis operation in
Spain but, far from playing the martyr card, he was
all about maintaining his crews morale: Keeping
your emotions under control is key tosurvival, he said.
Sandersons burst appendix may have been
an omen for what lay ahead as, since setting sail
from Spain, team Sanya has been jinxed with
equipment failures and encountered many minor
to near-death incidents on every leg of the race.
Sanya is the oldest boat in the race and the cracks
started to show, quite literally, on the leg from
New Zealand to Itaja in March, when the yachts
DRINK AT ...
It isn t an idle boast to state that
youll never be stuck for a drink
in Galway, but two of the best
pubs youll ever walk into are Tigh
Neachtain (at the corner of Cross
Street and Quay Street), which
is, by this stage, one of the best-
known hostelries in Ireland. Expect
to mingle with all manner of people
in close confines. Best night to go?
Impossible to answer, but Sunday
nights feature brilliant impromptu
traditional music sessions. Close
by is The Quays (Quay Street),
which is effortlessly one of the
most beautiful pubs in the country,
let alone the region. Some of the
interior notably stained glass and
gothic arches was imported from
a French medieval chapel.
rudder and hull were so badly battered by the
seas, water burst through and the crew had
to do an emergency patch-up job on the hull.
The yacht retired to New Zealand from this
the crucial fth leg of the race, before being
shipped to Savannah in the US for repairs.
Sanya nally managed to return to the
race in Miami, albeit in last position, and the
Volvo eet is currently racing to Lisbon and
then onto the home stretch from Lorient
in France to Ireland. Galway is always the
best stopover by far, and thats every teams
opinion not just ours, says Richard Mason,
the teams watch captain, It just has that
innate sense of fun and mischief, I dont think
we left The Quays bar the last time and I can
only imagine the madness this year.
Mason is right; madness is certainly on the
cards, as are cultural delights. Between June
30 and July 8 most of the laid-on activity will
centre on the purpose-built Race Village in the
harbour where the Volvo eet will be based.
The six yachts will be out at sea racing against
each other daily to score some nal points. On
dry land there will be food, music and marine
expos, as well as team pavilions and plenty of
entertainment for children. The festival is set
to attract an estimated 700,000 visitors and
the craic, as you can imagine, will be mighty.
Ill be crossing my own nishing line to the
maternity ward by then so, if youre heading
to Galway, be sure to have a Guinness for me
and set yourself up on a bar stool in The Quays
if you want to hear a few war stories from the
Sanya crew.
For details on the sailing, cultural and culinary
events happening in Galway Volvo Race Festival
from June 30 to July 8: letsdoitglobal.com.
Galway faces, clockwise
from top left, French visitor,
Blinda Benbourenane;
Daniel Rosen, the doughnut
man; Agata Lisik, a barmaid
at Tigh Neachtain; and stall
stalwart, John OConnor.
As Galway gears up to welcome the Volvo Ocean Race eet
when they cross the nishing line at the end of June, Liz Dwyer
recalls her experience on board Sanya.
june 2012 | 55
Summer in galway
56 | june 2012
FiVe Key eVentS
1
muSiC lisa Hannigan/James
Vincent mcmorrow
Lisa Hannigan is slowly but
surely branching out dividing
her time between the US and
Europe as she promotes her latest
album, Passenger. James Vincent
McMorrow, meanwhile, is basking in
the glory of his debut album, Early in
the Morning. Festival Big
Top, Thursday, July 26;
galwayartsfestival.com.
2
tHeatre Druidmurphy Plays
by tommurphy
DruidMurphy features three
of playwright Tom Murphys
most acclaimed works: Famine,
Conversations on a Homecoming
and A Whistle in the Dark. You can
experience all three plays over
the course of a day. Tickets for the
evening performances are priced from
18, and for the three plays from 50.
Town Hall Theatre, July 23-28; druid.ie.
3
Cinema Film Fleadh The
Fleadh will host more than
20 world premires of Irish
features/documentaries, the best
of world cinema and more than
150 screenings of new Irish shorts
and animations. Highlights include
director/writer Lenny Abrahamsons
new feature, What Richard Did, and a
tribute to director/writer Terry Gilliam
that will include screenings and a
masterclass. Various venues, July 10-15;
galwaylmeadh.com.
4
ViSual art aBSOlut
Festival gallery At this new
temporary art space, works
featured include two of the most
powerful portfolios from George
Grosz, one of the greatest satirical
artists of the 20th century; a joint
exhibition by Brian Maguire and Joe
Comerford; and new solo exhibitions
from Jennifer Cunningham and Mick
ODea.
5
tHeatre the great goat
Bubble by Julian gough A
comedy about the property
boom. The story is told through the
eyes of an African economist who
meets another character in 1986 in
Ballinasloe train station (both are
waiting to travel to Dublin to attend
the opening of the Irish Financial
Services Centre) ... Druid Theatre,
July 16-29.
Street blindfolded, youd still
get a sense that there was
something signifcantly
cultural going on. Tat
sense gets into the
fabric of the city and
its not just cultural.
Its also social,
economical, each of
which are important
players in Galway.
Of course, anyone
who has visited the
festival at any point in its
illustrious history will know
that it has cleverly (strategically,
perhaps?) placed the word art into
the word party. Galway, then,
is as much about appreciation as
celebration. Factor in the Galway
Film Fleadh (which runs from July
10-15 and dovetails perfectly into
GAF as a companion piece of
arts programming) and the
arrival along the Corrib
shores this summer of the
impressive Volvo Ocean
Yacht Race, and youve
got yourself one helluva
reason to visit.
I love coming to
Galway, says Irish
singer-songwriter Lisa
Hannigan, who is one
of this years GAF Big
Top headliners. There are
such great people and the best
food and fun to be had. The last
few times Ive been at the festival
its been to play in the Risn
Dubh thats a great venue, with
a notoriously good audience.
liSa
HanniganS
galway
I always head for Ard Bia at the
Spanish Arch. In fact, I have been
known to go there twice in one day.
Another favourite place is Kai, around
the corner fromthe music venue, Risn
Dubh. Myself and some of the band
went there for breakfast recently,
and decided it was the best
wed ever had.
LOUIS FITZGERALD HOSPITALITY
Temple Bar,
Ph: +353 1 670 8777
www.arlingtonhoteltemplebar.com
OConnell Bridge
Ph: +353 1 804 9100
www.arlington.ie
Awarded Irelands Best Value Hotel 2010
190 bedrooms
21 meetings rooms
Amazing Wedding packages available
Newlands Cross, Dublin 22. Tel: 01 403 3300
Email: stay@louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
www.louisfitzgeraldhotel.com
JOELS
RESTAURANT
Naas Rd, Dublin 22
Tel: 01 4592968
Modern and bright, Joels is one of Dublins livliest dining venues, with an
extensive menu catering for almost every taste.
AN POITIN
STIL
Rathcoole, Co. Dublin
Tel: 01 4589244
Award winning thatched Restaurant & Bar with its own Stil and quirky
museum. An Poitin Stil is one of Irelands Most Famous Pubs.
GRAND CENTRAL
10/11 OConnell St, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 8728658
KEHOES
9 South Anne, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6778312
THE STAGS HEAD
1 Dame Court, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6793687
THE QUAYS
11-12 Temple Bar, Dublin 1
Tel: 01 6713922
THE BAGGOT INN
Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6618758
THE QUAYS
Quay Street, Galway
Tel: 091 568347
City Centre Heritage Pubs
Dublin & Galway
www.louisfitzgerald.com
A warm welcome awaits you from all the staff at the Louis Fitzgerald Group
Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
destroyed in the 1916 rising. Today you can
still enjoy some of the original features, high
dome ceilings and hand crafted stone, but now
complimented with plush leather seats and
dramatic chandeliers. Superb food served daily.
Situated off Dublins premier shopping street,
Grafton Street. This is one of the finest, if not
the finest, Victorian pub in Dublin. Although it
is unchanged since 19th century, this is not a
museum, it is a buzzing vibrant pub with a
fantastic atmosphere and a special place in the
heart of Dubliners. This is a must see.
Established in the 1700s, it was last renovated
in 1895 and was the first pub in Dublin to
change from gas lighting to electricity. A
favourite haunt for those in the literary world
including Joyce and Kavanagh over the years.
Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
Dublin pub.
The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
Temple Bar is one of Dublins liveliest pubs with
a great mix of locals and tourists. Live Irish
Traditional Music everyday makes the pub a
magnet for those of us looking for a bit of craic
and with a restaurant on the first floor.
The Baggot Inn offer you the original and
unique Pour your own Pint experience.
Located in the hub of Dublins business centre,
we serve a wide variety of hot and tasty food.
First Failte Ireland Approved Dublin Pub check
out the Baggot inn FREE APP.
The Quays, situated in the heart of Galway city
and established in the 1600s, it has kept the
charm which gained it an international
reputation for its traditional Irish music sessions.
Traditional Irish fare, the best of music and the
'craic' are the order of the day.
THE LOUIS FITZGERALD
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Summer in galway
58 | june 2012
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According to the owners, the menu
at aniar is dictated by the seasons.
Such a terroir approach (in essence,
the gathering of natural inuences
that give food a sense of place) has
positioned aniar at the top of the
foodie chain. Starters from 8.50,
mains from 19.50, desserts from
8.50. (53 Lower Dominick Street,
091 535 947; aniarrestaurant.ie)
Just over four years ago, ard Bia at
nimmos used to be two separate
Galway foodie institutions, but in
what seems a very pragmatic business
move the establishments joined
together to oer two quite distinct
services. Result? An airy, arty dining
room overlooking the Corrib River.
Starters from 6, mains from 16,
desserts from 6. (Spanish Arch,
Long Walk, 091 561 114; ardbia.com)
One of the newer kids on the
Galway block, Kai Caf and
restaurant, has an ever-changing
menu that always seems to appeal. If
eclectic food in retro/funky
surroundings is your thing (starters,
from 7, might include brown-sugar-
cured mallard and pomegranate
molasses; with mains, from 17.50,
such as wild pheasant, chestnut
Parmesan and barley risotto;
desserts, from 6.50, eg, whiskey and
manuka aogato, ice cream and ginger
cakes), then step right in. (Sea Road,
091 526 003; kaicaferestaurant.com)
eaT aT ...
Hannigan is on the money with
all she says; for a good two weeks,
Galway is the countrys friendliest
city. Walking along the citys streets
day or night is one of lifes mellow
pleasures, as you never know what
arty-party sight you might come
across, or which of the festivals line-
up guests will present themselves in
front of you in a pub or restaurant.
Each year festival goers come
to see a wide range of shows
that embrace all aspects of the
arts literature, music, theatre,
poetry, comedy, visual art, dance,
childrens events, street art and
it is GAFs all-inclusiveness that
keeps bringing people back again
and again. From the Festival Big
Top to the small side streets, from
the acclaimed Macnas Festival
Parade to the admired side shows,
Galway has it all: a vibrant,
genuine cultural identity, an
expertly curated, non-intimidating
series of arts events, and a spirit
that says anything is possible.
Back about 40 years ago, says
Fahy, Galway wouldnt have been
very well provided for in terms of
arts infrastructure, so the festival
had to think imaginatively, which
meant using what was there
streets, old buildings, warehouses
and so on. So it developed a
reputation for adapting spaces
creatively. We have some great
venues now, but my predecessors
and I have continued that adaptive
process. We also acquired a Big
Top in 2006, and the beauty of
that is its placed in the heart of
the city, right on the banks of the
River Corrib, beside the Catholic
cathedral.
Im really looking forward to the
gig, says Lisa Hannigan of her show
with James Vincent McMorrow,
another of Irelands rising stars. I
love Jamess music, and he and his
band are wonderful in a live setting.
Ill also prepare for a dance of,
because, well, you never know ...
Lisa Hannigan? Te Galway Arts
Festival? A dance of? Dont say you
havent been given plenty of notice.
For more information, see
galwaytourism.ie; galwayartsfestival.com;
galwaylmeadh.com
Aoibheann McNamara of
Ard Bia at Nimmos
Kai Caf
Previous page,
clockwise from
top, spectacular
feats fromles
Philibulistes at last
years GaF; singer
lisa hannigan,
headline act
for 2012; and
the big top.
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: eat@marcopierrewhite.ie
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: eat@marcopierrewhite.ie
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
M A R C O P I E R R E W H I T E
S T E A K H O U S E & G R I L L
D U B L I N
LATE OPENING
FRIDAY & SATURDAY
51A Dawson Street
Dublin 2
Phone: 00 353 1 6771155
Fax: 00 353 1 6706575
Email: eat@marcopierrewhite.ie
Web: www.marcopierrewhite.ie
DUBLINS FINEST STEAKHOUSE
Boston for kids
60 | june 2012
Boston for kids
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A golden oldie Boston Childrens
Museum was the worlds rst for
kids and still challenges and thrills
from the minute you arrive.
Happy
Boston with kids? Mother of four, Laura George knows the importance
of planning a days sightseeing when children are involved. She shares
her survival guide. Photographs by Peter Matthews.
Families
BOSTON FOR KIDS
62 | JUNE 2012
T
here is arguably
no better city on
Earth for children
(and their parents)
than Boston. Its
walkable and
compact some
would even say
small-scale. On any given day, it
seems like everyone in Te Public
Garden downtown is wielding a
state-of-the-art jogging pram or
keeping a schoolchild stoked with
bread to feed the ducks. Te nearest
playground is a park away on Te
Common but who needs a slide
when there are giant swan pedal-
boats to be ridden, brass ducks to
leapfrog and ornamental plantings
to hide amongst?
To make the most of attractions
and minimise hassle, establish a
base camp within striking distance
of Te Public Garden and Te
Common or on the Waterfront.
From any of these central locations
youll be able to jump on the T,
Bostons civilised over/underground
mass transit system, or a sightseeing
trolley and/or walk to everything.
For a quick orientation,
its hard to beat the jolly
Duck Tour (book online
bostonducktours.com) from
three central locations.
Upcycled World War Two
amphibians with comical
conducktors take you on
a loop of all the key sights
and neighbourhoods, from
Back Bay to Beacon Hill,
Harvard to Quincy Market.
BEST
STROLLING
The Southwest Corridor
Park was once earmarked as a
freeway, but Boston residents said
No! and today its one of the best-
loved summer walks in the city. Get
there on the Orange Line T (any
stop between Back Bay
and Forest Hills).
Great quack
the Duck Tour,
top, and fun at The
Public Garden,
above.
c12111_ads placement_small ads.indd 1 16/11/2010 01:01
BOSTON FOR KIDS
64 | JUNE 2012
Beftting a college town,
Boston is packed with educational
attractions that build on the
most playful, hands-on aspects of
learning. In many respects, its the
anti-Disney. But make no mistake,
nor is it like a beautifully crafted
wooden toy thats passed over for
the plastic gizmo every time. Boston
is genuinely great fun for all ages.
Its no small wonder that
the worlds frst Childrens
Museum (308 Congress Street,
bostonchildrensmuseum.org) opened
in this city in 1913 and has gone
from strength to strength since.
Under the guidance of none other
than Dr Benjamin Spocks
son, Michael, it became an
interactive experience and
moved in 1979 to Fort Point
Channel, just a short walk
away from Quincy Market
and Faneuil Hall (kiddie
food paradise) and the New
England Aquarium (1 Central
Wharf, neag.org). Te purpose-
built space here challenges
and thrills from the minute
you walk in. Kids climb up to
the exhibits through a tangled,
three-storey web of ropes, while
adults are relegated to the stairs.
Once inside, there are fabulous
troughs where you can blow bubbles
as big as the average eight-year-
old, a fully stocked art studio, an
authentic Japanese teahouse that is
a surreally calm oasis, outrageous
tracks for racing marbles (and
thereby learning about the physics
of motion), a participatory theatre
and a truly magical gift shop. Be
sure to orchestrate your schedule
so that you pitch up at Flour
Bakery and Caf (12 Farnsworth
Street, fourbakery.com), just behind
the museum, for award-winning
sandwiches and baked goods. Its
Above, interactive
fun and games and,
top, ying through
the solar system
at the Planetarium
in the Museum of
Science. Opposite,
skeletons and
more at the
Harvard Museum
of Natural History.
OUTOF TOWNERS
Sometimes its a good idea to divide
up a city break with a daytrip out
of town. Rave reports come from
those who have braved the 3D
HAUNTED HOUSE (salem13ghosts.
com) and SALEMWITCH MUSEUM
(salemwitchmuseum.com), half
an hour north of the city via the
Rockport train at North Station.
Also popular are the historic villages
of STURBRIDGE (an excellent
stopping-o point halfway on the
drive west to NYC) and PLYMOUTH
PLANTATION (plimoth.org), an
hour south on the way to Cape Cod.
Both feature a lot of interactive
exhibits and actors in period
dress who demonstrate things like
candle-making, basket weaving etc.
But somehow it doesnt feel like
a school trip as much as it might.
For teenagers, the outrageous Blue
Man Group performs nightly at
the CHARLES PLAYHOUSE (74
Warrenton Street, blueman.com).
Expect to become involved in the
wildly creative, interactive theatre
paint, percussion and toilet roll are
just some of the ingredients that
make the show so memorable.
READINGLIST
MAKE WAYFOR DUCKLINGS by
Robert McCloskey. This is the seminal
Boston childrens classic, centered
on a duck family who call The Public
Garden home. Charming illustrations.
JOHNNYTREMAINby Esther Forbes
The perfect introduction to
Revolutionary War History a young
patriots coming of age.
CARRYON, MR BOWDITCHby Jean
Lee Latham. A rollicking yarn in the
vein of Hornblower.
THE WITCHOF BLACKBIRDPOND
by Elizabeth George Speare
The tale of a girls friendship with
an accused witch on the run from
Massachusetts.
Sturbridge
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JUNE 2012 | 65
THE INSIDERS GUIDE
Kildare-born Dawn Morrissey is co-director of the Irish Film Festival in Boston and has
lived in the city for 14 years, where she is constantly surprised by new bars, restaurants
and outdoor spaces.
T
he one piece of advice I give all my many visitors is to hit
the Rose Kennedy Greenway to sample the array of food
trucks that convene in spring, summer and early autumn. My
favourite has to be the Clover truck; I rst experienced its food
in the MIT area in 2008 and I have been hooked on its veggie
oerings ever since. For meat lovers, Silk Road BBQ is
right next to it on the Greenway and the ribs are divine.
For dessert, my two-year-old son loves cupcakes from
Kickass, which also has a truck out there.
The Kickass bakery is in one of our other
favourite haunts, Somervilles Davis Square.
Davis Square, has had an onslaught of hip
new bars and restaurants, including The
Foundry on Elm, a brasserie that oers a great
dinner and array of cocktails, while its sister bar
next door, The Saloon, is a speakeasy with an
impressive array of bourbon.
After lunch on The Greenway, its o for
some culture at the Institute of Contemporary Art
(icaboston.org). Not only is the architecture a sight to be seen
and experienced, its collections are varied, updated frequently
and always in the news.
If you feel like putting your toes in the sand on a sunny
afternoon, hop on one of the
ferries from Long Wharf out to
either Georges or Spectacle
Island. The trip takes all of
25 minutes and you can swim
o the beach of Spectacle or hike the hills of
Georges to get a stunning view of the city.
On a summer evening there is no better place to be than
The Pavilion, an outdoor live music venue also located
on the waterfront. The line-up is pretty impressive from
May to October and you are advised to get tickets in
advance (livenation.com).
If youre more in the mood for the bar scene, then
you could do a lot worse than heading to River Gods in
Cambridges Central Square. The Gods (as it is known)
is an oasis of good tunes, great food, and a hip crowd. It is
also child friendly earlier in the evening so we tend to have
dinner with our little guy, have our sitter pick him up, then
catch some beats while we relax with a mixed drink.
If, after all that, you still have some energy, check out the club
Estate. Located in The Alley on Boylston Street, it oers an array
of hip music in a luxurious setting of baroque accents, over-size
replaces and an expansive dance oor.
BOSTON FOR KIDS
66 | JUNE 2012
Cirque du Soleils Totemtraces the journey of the human species fromits original
amphibian state to its ultimate desire to fy witness the spectacular
transformation at the Boston Marine Industrial Park. Runs June 10 to July 1,
tickets from$48.50 for adults; cirquedusoleil.com
SLEEP AT...
BUDGET The perfect location,
vast historic rooms, and friendly
atmosphere of the College Club
of Boston make it hard to beat.
Local designers renovated each
of the eleven rooms in 2008 to
great effect and rooms are large
enough to accommodate extra
beds ($20 per bed, per night),
which is particularly convenient
for those travelling with
children. Hall bathrooms
are shared between two
rooms. (Rates from $119, 44
Commonwealth Avenue,
Boston, 001 617 536 9510;
thecollegeclubofboston.com)
MID-PRICE The former
headquarters of the Boston
Police Department is bound to
be ideally located downtown
but The Doyle Collections Back
Bay Hotel (formerly Jurys) is
also child-friendly with super
cheerful staff, inter-connecting
rooms and great kids menus.
Jetlagged visitors will appreciate
complimentary coffee and tea
in the lobby from 6.30am if
they don t want the in-room
Nespresso machine to wake
everyone else up. NB: rollaway
beds ($20 per night) can only
be accommodated in Superior
rooms. (Rates from $269, 350
Stuart Street, Boston, 001 617
266 7200; doylecollection.com)
SPLURGE Four Seasons Hotel
has everything to keep the kids,
and their parents, happy an
indoor pool, a dedicated kids
koncierge, a full programme
of complimentary activities
from Saturday cookie baking
classes to outdoor games
and movies. There are even
pint-sized dressing gowns and
slippers. Check out the Kid-
Kation packages which include
50 per cent off a second room,
toys and an in-room visit from
an old-fashioned ice cream cart.
Babysitting available with three
days notice. (Rates from $ 595,
200 Boylston Street, Boston,
001 617 338 4400; fourseasons.
com/boston)
Top, leave a day
aside for the
New England
Aquarium and a
whale watching
expedition. Above,
living history on
the Freedom Trail
where costumed
actors re-enact
the past.
Boston cream pie is a must.
On the way back to town from
the museum, the Boston Tea Party
Ship (Congress Street Bridge,
bostonteapartyship.com) is a history
lesson in miniature. Small enough
to walk around in half an hour, it is
beautifully restored and the events
that led to the start of the American
Revolution are well dramatised
by actors in costume or easy to
explain with plenty of props on
hand (bales of tea are provided for
chucking into the harbour at will).
For younger children, this stop is a
good alternative to stomping Te
Freedom Trail in its entirety. As
well-intentioned as adults might
be, little feet can seldom go the full
distance of 16 signifcant historic
sites marked out by a brick path
through the city.
Having learnt the hard way, I
can advise that
rationing sightseeing is always a
good strategy for family holidays.
Te most ground gets covered with
a steady approach that focuses on
one anchor event per day. Te boxes
will all be ticked eventually but
no one will lose their sanity. With
that in mind, leave a day aside for
the New England Aquarium, its
IMAX theatre and its performing
seals, with a side trip Whale
Watching (departs from Long
Wharf, bostonharborcruises.com),
and another for Te Museum
of Science (1 Science Park, mos.
org), which is one of the best
Il Posto
Italian Food & Wine
10 St. Stephens Green. Dublin 2 : Tel 6794769 01
www.ilpostorestuarant.com
2 Course Lunch 16 / 2 Course Pre Theatre 20
Open Monday-Saturday
After dinner ask Susannah for your
complimentary liqueur coffee!
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CAFE_MEXICANA_CARA_QP.ai 1 02/05/2012 11:52
BOSTON FOR KIDS
68 | JUNE 2012
in the world. Groups of ten or
more can spend a night in the
museum under the watchful
gaze of a T Rex. Reserve at least
two months in advance for the
chance to participate in special
activities, watch an IMAX movie
and explore exhibits in the dark
for just $50 per person, including
breakfast. Alternatively, if you opt
for a daytime visit and bribery
is one of your more efective
parenting tools, the museum gift
shop is incredible and its a short
walk from here to Abercrombie
& Fitch at the CambridgeSide
Galleria mall (100 CambridgeSide
Place, cambridgesidegalleria.com),
which also has an Old Navy and
American Eagle.
Across the Charles River from
Boston, in Cambridge, the quirky
Peabody Museum of Archaeology
and Ethnology (11 Divinity
Avenue) and the Harvard
Museum of Natural History
(26 Oxford Street) are also
worth a trip together theyre
like being inside a bumper issue
of National Geographic. Double
up with a walk through Harvard
Yard, a sandwich in Harvard Square
and an ice cream at JP Licks (1312
Massachusetts Ave) or Ben &
Jerrys (36 JFK Street). Te fact that
the former embeds Oreos in organic
chocolate rather than vanilla usually
wins out.
If you arent brave enough to bite
of a city-only holiday en famille,
be sure to consider using Boston
as a bookend for a vacation on Te
Cape or elsewhere in New England.
It seems everyone who dips a toe
in the proverbial water comes back
looking for more no matter what
their age.
EAT AT ...
Remember portions everywhere
are huge either order a childrens
portion or share. Most places will
accommodate children cheerfully
but the following are some of our
family favourites.
Flour Bakery (12 Farnsworth
Street, Fort Point Channel and 1595
Washington Street, South End and
190 Massachusetts Avenue, Central
Square, Cambridge, ourbakery.com)
Figs (42 Charles Street)
Get a taste of Beacon Hill and
gourmet pizza (dont miss
the signature g chutney,
blue cheese and
prosciutto number)
at a neighbourhood
stalwart.
No Name (15
Fish Pier Lane,
nonamerestaurant.com)
Basics such as Maine
lobster, New England clam
chowder and calamari in no-
nonsense simplicity. Back in
the day, you had to BYOB but
now you can get a Sam Adams
on tap, plonk, and cocktails.
Quincy Market (Quincy Market
Colonnade) Fried dough.
Chocolate chip mini cookies.
Foot-long hot dogs.
Souvlaki. Clam chowder.
Ribs. Fried oysters.
Sushi. Bagels. Pizza.
Gelati If they are old
enough, give everyone
an allowance and free
rein to mix and match
cuisines, then meet up
in the central hall for a
feeding frenzy. Avoid peak
times if possible.
Aer Lingus ies from Dublin to
Boston daily.
I
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B
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/
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C
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Flour Bakery
For show & shuttle bus from city centre.
Now booking for 2012 & 2013
One of Dublins
Top 10
Get the free App
STOCKHOLM
70 | june 2012 70 | February/March 2012
STOCKHOLM
This page, a guard
at the Royal Palace,
Stockholm, opposite,
a tranquil viewover
the River Norrstrm.
70 | june 2012
june 2012 | 71
The Swedish capital captured Kate ODowds heart and
mind (and wallet). She found food, fashion and the best hot
chocolate in town. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
Syndrome
Stockholm
june 2012 | 71
STOCKHOLM
72 | JUNE 2012
I
had never been to Stockholm
before. Tough, Ive always been,
shall we say, interested in (read:
obsessed by) its inhabitants
an Acne store on every corner
and No. 42 chairs around every
familys dining table. Tose were
my imaginings. Oh, and perfect
humans. Like most, design is what
I frst connected with Stockholm;
certainly not food. Id had IKEAs
meatballs ... a stinky fermented
fsh sprang to mind; reindeer balls;
lingonberries. But, apart from this
(and Jamie Olivers doing of some
typical Swedish dishes in Jamie
does... Spain, Italy, Sweden,
Morocco, Greece, France)
it wasnt really on my
dining radar.
But the food
scene in Sweden,
Stockholm in
particular, is
having a major
coming-of-age and
suddenly things
like pickled herring
are curiously trendy.
Stars of the Stockholm
restaurant scene, such
as Mathias Dahlgren
(Matsalen and Matbaren), Niklas
Ekstedt (Ekstedt), Pontus Frithiof
(Pontus!) and Fredrik Andersson
(Mistral) are local celebrities,
respected internationally and
swimming in Michelin stars.
Time, I thought, for an education
beyond the surstrmming (that
stinky fsh) though there was
some of that, too. With Himself
along for a second opinion, we
set about hopping Stockholms
islands the city is made up of
many: Gamla Stan, Norrmalm,
stermalm, Sdermalm
and Kungsholmen being
the most central though
train-hopping was about
as labourious as our
transport got.
Very high on the list
of the citys most talked
about restaurants is
Frantzn/Lindeberg (Lilla
Nygatan 21, 0046 820 8580;
frantzen-lindeberg.com), on a
historic, cobbled street in Gamla
Stan, so here was our frst port of
call. Open since 2008, it already
has two Michelin stars and was
ranked 57 in the 2011 Worlds Best
Restaurant Awards, as well as taking
the One to Watch spot. Te fare is
extremely inventive, with nods to
molecular gastronomy, but executed
in a manner that aims to demystify
food rather than serving up magic
tricks. Its young owners, Bjrn
Frantzn and Daniel Lindeberg,
are passionate about where their
ingredients come from, so when the
dough for the bread we were about
to eat with dinner was brought
to our table to prove, it wasnt
down to showing of, I think our
customers appreciate the honesty,
says Lindeberg. We have nothing
to hide we want them to see how
fresh everything is. Dishes such as
raw halibut with cream of duchess
crab, horseradish, lemon zest and
lump roe; and deep-fried potatoes,
with sour cream and bleak roe, quite
simply, blew our minds.
Another food revolutionary
we wanted to experience was
Henrik Norstrm, owner of Lux
(Primusgatan 116, 0046 8619 0190;
luxstockholm.com), a chic eatery
(with the obligatory Michelin star)
located in the canteen of an old
Electrolux factory. Fifteen minutes
from the centre of town (on the leafy
residential island of Lilla Essingen),
Lux buzzes with suits on lengthy
business lunches and chic couples
who sip cocktails after their dinner
is done. Te food is fresh and bold
our starter of smoked reindeer with
morels, shitake mushrooms and
watercress cream and a celery and
asparagus roll, is fairly indicative of
Clockwise from left,
fresh, bold dishes at
Lux; inventive fare
at the kitchens of
Frantzn/Lindeberg;
Kate ODowd on
the foodie trail.
GETTING
AROUND
The StockholmCardis a must.
For 190SEK(approx 21.50) per
day (basedon a ve-day card), youll
get unlimitedpublic transport use, free
admission to museums andattractions;
free sightseeing tours; anddiscounted
prices on bus tours andboat trips. Buy
online for a 10per cent discount;
visitstockholm.com/en/
stockholmcard
STOCKHOLM
27-28 Dawson Street, Dublin 2
(01) 675 9744
www.celticwhiskeyshop.com
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TAX
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SHOPPING
Tel: +353 (0)1 475 4621
Fax: +353 (0)1 475 4621
E-mail: info@donegalshop.ie
www.donegalshop.ie
We accept
Specialists in Irish tweed, Irish linen and knitted products
Mention this ad for a discount!!
The Donegal Shop
Top Floor,
St. Stephens Green
Centre
Dublin 2
Ireland
STOCKHOLM
74 | JUNE 2012
how the rest of the menu goes,
and these favours were meltingly
tender, gently smoky and tasting of
the earth.
As well as Lux, another of
Norstrms oferings (which
he runs with Peter Johansson)
is B.A.R. (Blasieholmsgatan
4A, 0046 861 15 335;
restaurangbar.se), a lower-key
option serving mostly fsh
and seafood, with added cool
and located in Norrmalms
business district. Simple and
atmospheric, this was actually one
of our favourite meals in Stockholm
super fresh grilled fsh (a local
variety whose name I could neither
pronounce nor remember), served
with the most comforting risotto
and roasted broccoli with Parmesan.
Even slap-bang in the middle of
the lunchtime rush, the service was
warm and efcient, and required a
cosy snuggling together at the bar
(thankfully, just the two of us).
Of a similar vibe to B.A.R.,
but hitting that achingly cool key
much harder, is Restaurang AG
(Kronobergsgatan 37, 0046 841 068
100; restaurangag.se), in the
up-and-coming (in that still-raw
East London way) Kungsholmen.
Almost hidden, AG is a few foors
up a winding, vertiginous staircase
that wouldnt feel out of place in a
Tube station. Once you get there,
youre greeted by a wall of dry-
ageing meat (its specialty) and then
led on to a very large dining room,
industrial in feel. Te place is wall-
to-wall coolsters, sipping cocktails
at the bar or eating in lively groups,
especially at weekends. We became
trendy overnight, Im not sure why,
says co-owner Klas Ljungqvist. But
then its never untrendy to cook
THE DISTRICTS
S
tockholm is made up of 14
islands, connected by 57 bridges,
each island (generally) forming
a natural district. GAMLA STAN is
the Old Town, the tourist hub and
the chocolate-box-pretty image of
Stockholm that graces postcards all
winding cobbled streets, Renaissance
churches and romantic squares.
Wander its streets early in the
morning (before the throngs arrive).
To the east is SKEPPSHOLMEN
home to the museums of modern art
(modernamuseet.se) and architecture
(arkitekturmuseet.se), the gallery
of photography (fotogranshus.se)
and the Svensk Form design centre
(svenskform.se), its virtually all your
Stockholm museum-going in one neat
package. DJURGRDEN, the citys
favourite green space, can be accessed
by vintage tram via the beautiful
Strandvgan, or on a ferry from
Slussen. While ambling along its pretty
paths, through woods and gardens, is
enough to warrant the trip, both the
Vasa museum (vasamuseet.se), which
holds an awe-inspiring 17th century
warship, and the Skansen outdoor folk
museum (skansen.se) are well worth
donating time to.
South to SDERMALMand you enter
what was once the citys poorest district,
but is now one of its most desirable
residential areas. Sit in one of the cool
cafs and watch beautiful young families
and trendy twenty-somethings out and
about, or hit Hornstull Strands famous
market, Street (streetinstockholm.se).
STERMALM and NORRMALM share
an island, the former being the most
up-market area in town all A-list
hangouts, international fashion agships
and majestic homes while the latter
is the business district, housing the
mammoth culture centre, Kulturhuset
(kulturhuset.stockholm.se), in the
midst of mainstream shopping streets.
KUNGSHOLMEN is little shouted
about but is becoming increasingly
popular with artists and loft-living
urbanites escaping the rocketing rents
of stermalm and Sdermalm the
vibe is under-the-radar cool, with little
galleries and trendy restaurants tucked
away where youd least expect.
Above, the
sought-after
Sdermalm
area, once the
citys poorest
district, and right,
Restaurang AG,
where wall-to-
wall coolsters
sip cocktails
at weekends.
Opposite, the
chocolate-box
prettiness of
Gamla Stan.
june 2012 | 75
STOCKHOLM
76 | june 2012
After a stroll
in Djurgrden,
a tea-break at
Rosendals Kaf is
recommended.
good food. Himself and I lingered
after our food, feeling hipper just by
being there and possibly afraid to
move, after the hefty steaks we had
just devoured.
But, of course, food is not the
only reason that Stockholm is
fabulous. Its a city built for its
people not for the economy or for
the political system, which in turn
makes it good for the economy and
the political system. Its laid out to
make life better you want a day
of culture? Go to Skeppsholmen.
You want to escape to nature?
Go to Ekoparken. Te old
story that Swedes are
so into interior design
because they never
leave their houses is
codswallop. Teyre
all out and about,
all the time. In fact,
they are the second
biggest consumers
of cofee in the world
(the Finnish are the
biggest; who knew!) and
fka (taking a cofee break)
is a major social pastime. So
cafs are many and mostly very
good, ranging from the elegantly
French in style to more rustically
Swedish, all sourdough buns and
sugary spices. Sdermalm is full
of trendy joints with tables outside
where the hipsters can smoke their
rollies. And the best of these is
PARK LIFE The European Green
Capital for 2010, Stockholm is two-
thirds greenbelt and waterway. So
its not surprising that once the snow
thaws, Stockholmers young and old
leap from their egg chairs to enjoy
the privilege of living in a modern
city with such easy access to natural
beauty. To boot, EKOPARKEN is
the worlds only urban national park,
stretching 14km from Ulriksdals Slottet
in the north, to DJURGRDEN and
FJDERHOLMARNA in the south. Its
a haven for rare birds and other wildlife
and its network of cycling paths, walking
tracks (see stockholmtown.se for routes)
and kayak and pedal-boat rentals, make
it ever popular in summer months. Cafs
move outdoors (MLARPAVILJONGEN
on Norr Mlarstrand is a particular
favourite) and both the bigger parks,
and smaller residential squares come to
life. Rent a bicycle from one of the SVD
STOCKHOLMCITYBIKE stands to see
the city, with the freedom to leave it in the
part of town that suits (a three-day pass is
165SEK, approx 18.50; citybikes.se).
WATERWORKS The cleanliness
of the water around Stockholm is a
topic of much pride. Due to stringent
environmental laws (and lax shing ones),
shing for trout and salmon in the city
centre is a common sight. Swimming, too,
is popular in summer the best places to
go for a dip are NORR MLARSTRAND
(the southern edge of Kungsholmen);
the sandy beach on LANGHOLMEN
(the small park island to the north-
west of Sdermalm); and, if youre
feeling adventurous, just in front of
STADHUSET (City Hall). If youd rather
enjoy the water from a drier position,
you can rent a dinghy, canoe or pedal-
boat at DJURGRDSBRON BRIDGE.
Or, to look less like a tourist, choose a
kayak Stockholms kayak club get best
reviews (kafekajak.se) perfect for
those interested in heading east to the
archipelago, home to a diverse selection
of migratory birds and ... moose.
AL FRESCO
undoubtedly the Nytorget Urban
Deli (Nytorget 4, 0046 859 909
180; urbandeli.org), a bar, caf,
deli and food market in one. Tis
place has cool seeping from the
sugar bowls it makes Fallon &
Byrne (Dublins closest counterpart
and actually pretty great) look like
a regional Tesco. Go for weekend
brunch for the best people-watching
but be prepared to down a few
cocktails before your food arrives
oh, how I despaired.
In Gamla Stan, hot chocolate is
big, year round. Lots of places do it
well but the best we found (and
our test group was sizeable)
was at Chokladkoppen
(Stortorget, 0046 820 3170;
chokladkoppen.se), a cosy
little place on the most
picturesque of squares.
Bowls of the stuf are
served here, creamy and
chocolaty in the right
balance, with syrup on
top for extra naughtiness.
While no trip to
Djurgrden would be
complete without a tea-
break in Rosendals Trdgrd
(Rosendalsterrassen 12, 0046 854
581 270; rosendalstradgard.se),
a gorgeous public garden beside
Rosendals Palace where plants and
vegetables are grown to practise
and educate on biodynamic
agriculture it has an adorable
trusty
transfer
The Arlanda Express fromthe
airport may seempricey, at 325SEK
(approx 37) for a weekendreturn (when
bookedonline; if you buy once you get
there, its more like 490SEK/55), but its
cheaper than a taxi andquicker; getting
you to T Centralen in 20minutes, in
cool comfort. Totally worth it, in my
book; arlandaexpress.com
STOCKHOLM
JUNE 2012 | 77
Diic wi1u S1vii
Brasserie Sixty6 is a must-visit restaurant on South Great Georges Street, one of
Dublins coolest streets, mixing a great atmosphere with great food. We nd out more.
ADVERTORIAL PROMOTION
A
t Brasserie Sixty6, the
atmosphere may be light
and buzzy, but they take
their food seriously. Very
seriously. A team of expert
chefs use only the fnest ingredients,
sourced locally from the most reputable
butchers, fshmongers, green grocers,
artisan bakers, and internationally from
carefully sourced specialist food suppliers,
to create an Irish/European menu thats
bursting with favour, and of the highest
possible quality. Everything is cooked
to order, making for a fresh, delicious
experience every time.
Brunch at Brasserie Sixty6 is almost
an institution now among the style savvy
on Saturdays and Sundays, with perennial
favourites like Eggs Benedict and Eggs
Florentine, alongside mouth-watering
dishes like lemon ricotta pancake served
with crme fraiche, strawberries and
maple syrup drizzle divine. On Sundays,
you can even enjoy live classical jazz until
3.30pm, making for a fabulous fnish to
your weekend.
Lunch can be either lazy or swif,
depending on your schedule, and is
served Monday Friday from 12pm -
3pm, at very reasonable prices, while a
kids menu is sure to keep the little ones
happy too. At dinner time, choose from a
great value set menu, a pre-theatre menu
or go la carte. Tink pan-fried scallops
with the Sixy6 Surf & Turf; or the more
adventurous might opt for a suckling pig
platter, a must-try for large groups (one
weeks notice required). Alternatively,
the rotisserie chicken is the restaurants
signature dish. Brasserie Sixty6 also
caters well for vegetarians, with dishes
like baby vegetable tagine served with
spicy cous cous and spinach and ricotta
tortellini.
Youre sure to love the buzz of this busy
restaurant, but why not get even more
into the swing of things with a fabulous
cocktail, designed by Brasserie Sixty6s
in-house mixologist. Our favourites a Gin
Garden, or you could try an old-school
Mojito, or even their take on one of the
classics with a twist of course.
If youre shopping or sight-seeing in
Dublin city centre, Brasserie Sixty6 is the
perfect pit-stop for delicious food and a
great atmosphere book your table now.
Bv.ssivii Six1vo, oo-o, So01u Gvi.1 Giovcis S1vii1, D0nii i,
01 400 3878, bookingsbrasseriesixty6.com.
www.brasseriesixty6.com
-------------------------------------------------
----
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Prosecco
on arrival when you mention Cara!
EXCLUSIVE
oer for Cara readers!
Enjoy a
complimentary
glass of Prosecco
on arrival when you
mention Cara!
STOCKHOLM
78 | june 2012
STAY AT ...
PARTYCENTRAL Scandic Grand Central
opened late last year, arguably the coolest in
the Scandic portfolio. Located in Norrmalm, a
few minutes walk fromT Centralen (the central
station for buses, trains, subways and the Arlanda
Airport Express), its the perfect vantage point
for rst-timers eager to venture all over the city.
The interior is grown-up, but playful. At night, the
bar and restaurant buzz with hip revellers (guests
and locals), there to catch performances by top
DJs and musicians most weekend nights; rooms
from 100 per night. (Kungsgatan 70, 0046 851
252 000; scandichotels.com)
HOME FROMHOME Ett Hem, Swedish for
at home, is due to open around about now
and looks like the kind of hotel you might never
want to leave, regardless of what exploration
beckons. A beautiful private home in chic
stermalm, it has just been renovated to
take guests and oers rental by the room, the
oor or the whole house. The feel is of luxury,
but its not a luxury hotel, and given that you
can borrow the car, help yourself from the
fridge or take the dog for a walk, thats for
all the right reasons; rooms from 450 per
night. (Skldungagatan 2, 0046 820 0590;
etthemstockholm.se)
THOUGHTFUL SOLITUDE On the citys
museum island, Hotel Skeppsholmen is
perfectly located for culture vultures and just
a stroll (or ferry ride) from Gamla Stan, but
nds itself in quiet peace come nighttime. In an
18th century naval building, the historic facade
belies a light and airy, contemporary interior
(its a Design Hotel, so you know what to
expect), lively restaurant and bar; rooms from
246 per night. (Grna gngen 1, 0046 840 72
350; hotelskeppsholmen.com)
plant shop, wholesome vegetable
shop and (best of all) bakery/caf,
with the most gorgeously fresh
cakes that we tasted on the trip.
Next order of business (after
the cake wise): those perfect
humans. Teres certainly a Swedish
stereotype, dressed faultlessly in
minimalist threads; naturally tan,
richly blonde, athletically slim. At
frst, I was glad to discover that this
was just that a stereotype but
as the days passed and I ventured
into ever trendier parts of town, I
realised that yes, the majority of
Stockholmers are just average folk,
but that the percentage of Super
Stylish is signifcantly higher than
in other cities and that the level
of Super Stylishness is virtually
unrivalled. One must be able to
purchase this aesthetic, I thought.
And though my funds were much
depleted (because my stomach was
much expanded), I thought Id
better look, at least. For research
purposes, you understand I left
Himself to the Vasa museum, for
this part.
First up Acne, of course.
Swedens fashion export of
the moment, Acne started as
a denim brand and has since
expanded into a full fashion label
thats somewhere between high
street and ready-to-wear (price
and otherwise). Its fagship is
in the former Kreditbanken
building (Norrmalmstorg 2,
0046 861 16 411; acnestudios.
com), where the term Stockholm
syndrome was coined, on the
lovely Norrmalmstorg Square
the famous vaults now house an
impressive denim section. It was
all I expected it would be; the best
and brightest from their spring
collection all the key pieces in
more colours than I thought existed.
Pity my daydream that prices would
be halved on home turf was so pie in
the sky. However, around the corner
at Cos (Biblioteksgatan 3, 0046 854
501 050; cosstores.com) another
fagship of a successful Swedish
export (resolutely high street, but
with an expensive-seeming aesthetic)
I found respite. A diehard fan,
this is the best Cos store I have
been to, bar none. I got a little
An eortlessly chic
Stockholmnative - but
they do have the pick of
fashion stores.
Scandic Grand Central
Come dine in one of Irelands denitive
Italian experiences, brought to you by
Eileen Dunne, Stefano
Crescenzi & David Izzo
A cosy Italian restaurant &
extensive wine bar.
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
+353 (1) 6759892
Traditional Italian
trattoria restaurant.
www.baritalia.ie
+353 (1) 8741000

Elegant ne dining with
authentic Italian avours.
www.nonnavalentina.ie
+353 (1) 4549866
A workshop of
cutting edge Italian food.
www.ofcina.ie
+353 (45) 535850
Dunne and Crescenzi has changed
the way the Irish eat
Tom Doorley, THE IRISH TIMES.
.... pioneering and reigning...
The New York Times
One of the most famous Italian wine bars...
La Repubblica
They brought the real Italian food to Dublin
FOOD & WINE
Running the show with famous air, Robert Doggett,
will always ensure you have rip roaring night.
Just make sure you make no plans to go on aerwards
you will nd it very hard to leave
Food and Wine Magazine: e Hot 100
No 4, St. Andrew Street, Dublin 2
Tel: (01) 6775545 trocaderoireland@gmail.com
www.trocadero.ie
THE TROCADERO
Celebrating its 55th Birthday...
Trocadero, is the sort of place that improves with time,
both as the years go by and the evening wears on.
Irish Times Magazine
STOCKHOLM
80 | JUNE 2012
carried away; and yes, I did feel a
little closer to the Super Stylish, but
not much they didnt sell genes.
Perhaps its bottled? I thought. If
so, it would be at Byredo (Mster
Samuelsgatan 6, 0046 852 502 610;
byredo.com), a cult Swedish fragrance
company with just 16 unisex scents
at 1,400SEK (140) per 100ml; each
starkly diferent from the other with
the intention that everyone will love
at least one (and probably hate most
of the others). I fell for Pulp, a fggy,
bergamotty freshness; so unlike my
usual rosy safety, yet somehow felt
like me or perhaps a new and
improved Swedish version.
All in all, the shopping in
Stockholm is pretty wonderful.
Teres an H&M on every
corner (which is a little weird)
and of course the usual tatty
malls, around Norrmalm
though, the new shopping
centre Mood (Norrlandsgatan
13; moodstockholm.se) is proving
very popular with hip locals, for
stores like Stockholm Market
and Rodebjer but the high-
end is particularly well covered.
NK (Hamngatan 18-20, 0046
8762 8000; nk.se) is Stockholms
Selfridges; the epitome of what
a department store should be.
Six levels and 100 departments
house all the international luxury
stars as well as Swedens brightest.
Nathalie Schuterman (Birger
Jarlsgatan 5, 0046 861 16 201;
nathalieschuterman.se) is a mini
department store (or large boutique)
with a faultless selection of womens,
mens and childrens wear, in brands
such as Chloe, Giambattista Valli and
3.1 Phillip Lim. Or simply saunter
down chi-chi stermalms Birger
Jarlsgatan (Knightsbridge, without
the hordes of tourists looking for
Harrods), pressing your face up
to the windows of Louis Vuitton,
Bottega Veneta, Mulberry (and the
rest), like a Dickensian orphan at a
bakery shopfront or me.
So, at the end of this exploration,
did Stockholm give more than I
expected? Heck, yes. I ate like Queen
Silvia, fell in love with her subjects
(and its not just a looks thing, theyre
helpful and kind to a fault), and
marvelled at how dreamlike city life
can be. I didnt come home with
the wardrobe of my dreams stupid
empty bank account but what did
I care, I had something sparkly on
my fnger that hadnt been there on
the way over. Te details are sacred
but I will divulge that I said, Yes!
and that Stockholm is an incredibly
romantic city (and that we promised,
while gazing out on the waterfront
of Gamla Stan, that wed return on
our fve-year anniversary). If all else
fails and youve spent your savings in
Nathalie Schuterman, but still dont
look like super-blogger Elin Kling,
you can always eat yourself Swedish
I think Ive just about managed it.
Sdra
Blasieholmskajen,
where the classical
architecture of the
museumquarter
meets the bustle
of Stockholms
business district.
FAVOURITE MUSEUM
Stockholm has a wealth of
good museums, such as the
Museum of Modern Art and
the National Museum, but I
like Skansen (skansen.se), the
worlds rst open-air museum,
which is like a Sweden in
miniature. When the industrial
revolution came to Sweden,
the ethnologue Artur Hazelius
decided to buy a typical
building from each area of the country and
move them to Stockholm. This could sound
like Disneyland, but the museum was created
at the turn of the last century so it feels
authentic.
BUILDINGThis would have to be, morbidly
enough, The Woodland Cemetery
(skogskyrkogarden.se), designed by the
master architects Gunnar Asplund and
Sigurd Lewerentz and built over a long
period, from 1915 to 1940. It is, as the name
suggests, set in the most beautiful wood
in the southern part of
Stockholm. Oh, and its the
last resting place of Greta
Garbo.
ARCHITECT The best
contemporary architect is
Gert Wingrdh really from
Gothenburg, but he has a main
oce in Stockholm, so is a
sort of honorary Stockholmer.
Youll be greeted by one of his
landmark buildings soon after
arrival he designed the ight control tower at
Arlanda airport.
RESTAURANT My own favourite restaurant
is not a design hangout, but is unpretentious,
great for food and perfect for people
watching the bistro P.A. & Co. (Riddargatan
8, 0046 861 10 845; paco.se) near my store.
STROLL The best, by far, is around the island
of Djurgrden, where the museum Skansen is.
It is, of course, surrounded by water, peaceful
and leafy, with a host of good museums and
beautiful private villas to occupy the interest.
THE INSIDERS GUIDE
Scottish-born Andrew Duncanson is co-owner of 20th-century design store
Modernity (Sibyllegatan 6, 0046 820 8025; modernity.se) and has lived in
Stockholm for 14 years. Here are some of his favourite things to do in the city.
Aer Lingus ies from Dublin to
Stockholm on Mon, Wed, Fri
and Sat.
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JUNE 2012 | 83
It's still something of a clubbers' paradise, but Ibiza also
has a lot to oer the less danceoor-inclined.
Rachel Montague shows us around the island.
IBIZA
An Insiders Guide to
For a great view of the Ibizan sunset,
CALACONTA beach on the western side
of the island is perfect. I tend to visit at the
beginning and end of the season, when it is
mostly empty and at its most calm.
I love everything about BAMBUDDHAGROVE.
East meets West under a canopy of bamboo and
among carved stone statues. It is a temple of fun, to
which the in crowd is drawn, to sip cocktails and
party. (Santa Eulalia, 0034 971 197 510;
bambuddha.com)
In the village of SANTAGERTRUDIS
I found the heart of the island the red
earth, the mist in the morning, and horse
riding late at night through moonlit fields of
fig trees and oranges. It is an inspiring place.
Santa Gertrudis is also home to my favourite
international bookshop, Libro Azul.
(libro-azul-ibiza.com)
IBIZAAAH.COMsupplies
more than just beautiful villa
rentals, for me the places are
some of the most serene I have
ever stayed in, not least because
of their unforgettable views.
ibizaaah.com
PASSIONCAF is my
number one healthy port
of call when on the move
around the island. I love
their use of premium,
quality ingredients and
imaginative avour
combinations the
ultimate soul food.
(Playa d'en Bossa,
0034 971 305 130;
passion-ibiza.com)
The original PACHA ...
has to be seen and heard.
One of the islands longest-
running club stalwarts, the
club still attracts the worlds
most lauded DJs. Even if
youve long since hung up
your clubbing clobber,
Pacha should feature
on your Ibiza itinerary.
(Avinguda del Vuit d'Agost,
0034 971 313 600;
pacha.com)
INSIDERS GUIDE
84 | JUNE 2012
REVOLVER boutique has built a
loyal, cult following and its easy to
see why its owners edgy, eclectic
taste shines through a collection
that attracts the fashion-forward
like moths to a (deliciously tailored)
ame. (Calle Bisbe Azara 1,
0034 971 318 939; revolveribiza.com)
IBIZAROCKS If guitars are more your thing onanisland where
almost all youhear is electronic music thenthe Ibiza Rocks
festival may be right upyour alley. The most-streamed artist of 2012,
Ed Sheeran, opens the seasononJune 6; ibizarocks.com
Wednesdays in Es Can, or
Saturdays in San Carlos, the HIPPY
MARKETs are the most exciting
treasure hunts on the island. If, like
me, you love rummaging around
market stalls, this is a truly unmissable
experience.
BLUE MARLIN is a stylish beach club
in captivating Cala Jondal bay. During the
day, this is a great place to chill with family
swimming, eating Asian food and enjoying the
fresh sea air. By night, get your dancing shoes
on as well-known DJs from around the globe
spin hot tunes until the early hours. (Playa es
Jondal, 0034 971 410 117; bluemarlinibiza.com)
I feel I should share one of the islands best mobile
hair and beauty secrets (since I'm in the business of
fashion). I have the professional folks at SMACK IBIZA to
thank for painting my face, tackling my mane, and waking
my tired eyes recently after running from work to do a
full-day photo shoot ... If I could squeeze them in, these
guys would live in my handbag. It pays to let them do the
hard work before a special night out. (0034 634 148 429;
smackibiza.com)
The sandy beach at
AGUAS BLANCAS is
perfect for a swim and some
tender loving care for your
skin. I love to come here for
the soft mud it is famous
for its cleansing properties
and it really works, leaving
your skin feeling soft as a
baby's bottom!
I get excited whenever I think of
PLAYADE SESTANYOL. The tiny
cove, with its small, picturesque,
shermens huts and crystal blue waters,
never disappoints. I love wading in the
waters here.
MORE ABOUT RACHEL
Rachel Montague, originally
from London, rst visited Ibiza
in 2009 after a four-year stint in
Dublin. As she remembers, The
moment I stepped o the plane
in Ibiza I felt like I was home.
The island has an energy like no
other place Ive been. There is
such a sense of fun and freedom
on the island, a sense of getting
away from your troubles and
leaving the bad weather behind!
The full-time model and dancer
now spends most of her time on
the island, the rest of which she
spends travelling to further-
ung locations.
P
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Aer Lingus ies
from Dublin to Ibiza
on Wed and Sat.
30 Nassau Street, Dublin 2 (Directly opposite Trinity College)
www.thesweatershop.ie | T. +353 1 671 2292
Best selection, quality & value
Beautiful classics at
reasonable prices
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Explore the magical miniature world of Taras Palace Museum of Child-
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All profits
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BEING THERE
86 | JUNE 2012
Ancient yet modern, Athens is as refreshingly
contemporary as it is comfortably traditional.
Jane Foster takes us on an odyssey through
its lively streets.
Athens
4
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rotest marches, riot police and tear gas might be the most recent
images youve seen from Athens but, despite Greeces current
economic turmoil, the capital remains a vibrant, scholarly and
glamorous destination. Summer sees restaurants ofer open-air
dining on terraces lined with potted geraniums and draped with
bougainvillea, while cocktail bars serve zingy mojitos to suntanned locals.
Meanwhile, the Greek Festival (June 8 to July 20; greekfestival.gr) stages world-
class concerts, theatre and ballet beneath the stars this years line-up includes
the Berliner Ensemble and the Perm Tchaikovsky Opera & Ballet Teatre. So,
although many visitors whiz straight through the city and jump on a ferry to
the glorious Greek islands, it more than warrants a couple of days stop-over.
SLEEP AT .
More than just a modern
city with a fabled history,
Athens extends along a
blissful stretch of coast.
Overlooking the glistening
blue Aegean Sea, the
ve-star Arion Resort &
Spa (0030 210 890 2000;
arionresortathens.com)
encompasses a sandy
beach, luxurious spa,
minimalist rooms, suites
and bungalows (some with
private innity pools), and
several gourmet restaurants, including
Matsuhisa Athens, managed by famed
Japanese chef Nobu Marsuhisa. Its in
Vouliagmeni, and runs a free daily
shuttle service to the city centre
(25km). Rooms from 260.
For a more urban vibe, New Hotel
(0030 210 327 3200; yeshotels.gr),
close to the Greek Parliament and
Syntagma Square, opened in July
2011. The Brazilian Campana brothers
were responsible for its design;
renovating a 1950s building to
produce this funky 79-room hotel
with recycled furnishing, slick modern
bathrooms and hi-tech lighting. A
member of Design Hotels, it has a
wellness centre and does a much-
Above,
traditional
Greek soldiers
guarding the
tomb of the
unknown
soldier; left, hip
and discreet,
the terrace at
EP16; below,
the sleek
interior at AVA
Hotel
& Suites.
Psirri, home to a lively nightlife
scene, try EP16 (0030 698 508
3556; ep16.com). Occupying a 1930s
building, it has ve light and airy
apartments, which sleep two to three
people, each with wooden oors,
contemporary designer furniture and
a fully equipped kitchen. Theres a
shared Acropolis-view roof terrace
with potted plants and a fridge
stocked with complimentary drinks.
Upon arrival, you get an orientation
tour of the neighborhood, plus a
Greek mobile phone with some
credit so you can avoid roaming
charges. Apartments from 100.
lauded Sunday brunch. Rooms from
175 (bookings made at least 30 days
in advance get a 15 per cent discount).
A ve-minute walk from the
Acropolis museum, in pretty Plaka,
the smart AVA Hotel & Suites (0030
210 325 9000; avahotel.gr) oers 16
spacious suites, which sleep two to
four people. A ne choice for
families, each suite has a bedroom,
bathroom, living room with sofa bed
and kitchenette, plus a furnished
balcony or veranda. Suites at the
front have Acropolis views (the
higher up, the better), while those at
the back face a peaceful courtyard.
Suites from 160.
For a hip hideaway in downtown
JUNE 2012 | 87
FEEL ANCIENT ANDMODERNAT
However many times youve seen the
Acropolis, it remains a magnicent
sight, especially at night when its
bathed in golden oodlighting. A rocky
mound rising 156m above the urban
chaos that is modern Athens, each
year it attracts some three million
visitors, who come to see its three
ancient temples, the largest and best
known being the monumental
fth-century BC white marble
Parthenon. The lovely car-free
Archaeological Promenade skirts the
foot of the Acropolis, linking it to other
ancient sites including the Ancient
Agora, Kerameikos and the Temple of
Olympian Zeus your Acropolis
entrance ticket is valid for these
attractions too.
On a more contemporary note, you
have the impressive glass-and-
concrete Acropolis Museum
(theacropolismuseum.gr). Purpose built
to exhibit a hoard of fascinating nds, it
was designed by Swiss architect
Bernard Tschumi and opened in 2009.
Besides proud marble statues,
ceramics and jewellery, it displays a
life-size reconstruction of the
beautifully carved frieze that once ran
around the top of the Parthenon. The
EAT AND DRINK AT ...
For top-notch,
contemporary Greek cuisine
head for Trapezaria (0030
210 921 3500; trapezaria.gr)
in a former warehouse in
Makrigianni, a ve-minute
walk from Acropolis metro
station. Proprietor-chef
Dimitris Panagiotopoulos
creates exquisite dishes based
on fresh seasonal produce
spring moussaka made from
corn-fed chicken, artichokes
and Pecorino cheese was a
recent favourite. Depending
on the time of year, expect
delicacies such as wild asparagus,
mushrooms, trues or fresh tuna.
Great wine list too.
Magnicent views of the Acropolis,
oodlit at night, are the main reason to
dine at Stro (0030 210 921 4130;
stro.gr), also in Makrigianni. Visitors
and locals alike have been ocking to
this romantic roof terrace since 1975
Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nuruyev
once ate here after performing at the
Greek Festival. Given a chic new,
all-white minimalist look in 2010, its
known for classic Greek taverna fare
such as taramasalata, courgette
fritters and roast lamb.
For lunch in the city centre, close to
busy Syntagma Square, locals favour
Melilotos (0030 210 322 2458;
melilotos.gr). Look out for tasty,
freshly cooked, daily specials, as well
as the chefs favourite salmon
baked in parchment paper with
celery, leek and fennel,
served with spinach and
mastiha sauce.
On a small square near
Monastiraki, bohemian Cafe Avissinia
(0030 210 321 7047; avissinia.gr) is
especially fun on Sunday afternoons,
when it hosts live accordion music.
Theres also a lovely Acropolis-view
roof terrace for open-air dining.
Expect Greek dishes with fragrant
herbs and spices from Anatolia try
the lamb and bulgur wheat stew, or
pork with prunes and leeks.
Aer Lingus ies fromDublin to
Athens, on Tues, Thurs and Sat.
Interested in checking out contemporary Greek architecture, as well as
ancient? Or just a spot of bargain hunting before fying out? Then a visit to
Factory Outlet, by the airport, should sate both desires; factory.gr
chunks that are missing are the
controversial Elgin Marbles, now in the
British Museum in London Greeks
hope these pieces will eventually be
returned to their homeland.
Before leaving, see all of Athens
and the surrounding sea and
mountains in one swoop, from the
top of the citys highest peak, Mount
Lycavittos (295m). Rising behind the
smart residential neighbourhood of
Kolonaki, its covered with fragrant
pinewoods and lush Mediterranean
vegetation. A footpath zigzags to the
summit, capped by a whitewashed
Orthodox church and a caf, which
can also be reached by cable car (from
Ploutarchou Street in Kolonaki). On
the northern slope, the Lycavittos
Theatre stages open-air concerts the
2012 programme promises Dead can
Dance in September, while 2011 saw
Cesaria Evora, Buena Vista Social Club
and Thievery Corporation play here.
Left, the perfect
hub to take o
to the islands;
echoes of
Byzantium in the
architecture.
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For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including Boardwalk
Empire (pictured), turn to page 94.
InFlight
JUNE 2012 | 89
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-o. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-o and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the ight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
o and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a
potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular
attention to the following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched o and stowed
safely as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to
transmit or receive data during the ight, however devices equipped with ight mode, or
the equivalent, may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is
switched o.

DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.

DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
90 | JUNE 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.

GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.

GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
JUNE 2012 | 91
News
Aer Lingus launches its new
look website
Its FashIonForwardFor BallynahInch
PrImaryschool
AerLingus ioLArtAkes pArt inCeLebrAtionof fLight, 19122012
On Sunday, April 22, Aer Lingus rst aircraft
named Iolar, meaning Eagle, took to the skies
over Enniscorthy, Co Wexford, as part of a
celebration on the 100th anniversary of the
rst-ever ight from the UK to Ireland.
On that same date in 1912, Denys
Corbett Wilson crash-landed his Blriot
XI in a field at Crane a few miles outside
Enniscorthy. Wilson had flown from
Goodwick in Wales and was planning to
land in Kilkenny but poor weather and
technical problems forced him to cut his
historic flight short.
On the weekend of April 21-22 this
year, the town of Enniscorthy in Co
Wexford held a series of events under the
title Celebration of Flight, 19122012 to
commemorate this important milestone
in Irish aviation history, including yovers
from a number of vintage aircrafts.
The Aer Lingus Iolar was the undisputed
star of the show. Captain Brendan Bruton,
a member of the Aer Lingus volunteer team
who restored the aircraft last year, piloted
EI-ABI from Dublin to Enniscorthy and ew
over the town and nearby Vinegar Hill to the
delight of onlookers.
AerLingus
Aer Lingus has recently
unveiled its revamped
corporate website at
aerlingus.com. The new
and improved website
aims to provide visitors
with a resource where up-
to-date information can be
easily accessed through
ease of navigation.
The website contains information on the companys
historical background, descriptions of the airlines
entire eet, details of the route network and a
comprehensive investor relations section. The new
media centre contains interesting facts and a collection
of downloadable images from throughout the years.
The newly designed website is part of Aer Lingus
commitment to improving its service oering, providing
customers with the most up to date information at
their ngertips. The website enables the airline to
communicate with its customers more eectively. Check
it out at aerlingus.com
The results of the Aer Lingus Art for
Schools Competition 2012 are nally in!
The winning school was Ballynahinch
Primary School and the winning design
was submitted by nine-year-old Zara
Campbell, whose design for a new cabin
crew uniform was chosen by the judging
panel as their favourite.
Aer Lingus has sponsored the Schools
Art Competition in Northern Ireland for
the past ve years, together with local
schools newspaper NI4Kids. The response
was incredible with talented primary
ve and six children from schools across
Northern Ireland submitting their designs
for a new uniform for Aer Lingus cabin crew.
Choosing the eventual winner was not an
easy job but the judges decided unanimously
that Zaras design was exceptional.
92 | june 2012
News AerLingus
AerArAnnoperAte All
services underAerlingus
regionAl BrAnd
Aer Arann recently announced the
expansion of its franchise relationship with
Aer Lingus. Under the new agreement, all
Aer Arann services will now operate under
the Aer Lingus Regional brand.
In addition to the exisiting 21 Aer Lingus
Regional routes currently available from
Dublin, Cork and Shannon, the expansion
will provide customers with greater
connectivity between Ireland and the UK,
including Dublin to London Southend,
Isle of Man and Kerry and Waterford to
Southend, Manchester and London Luton,
to name but a few.
Citybreaks from199 per person
sunholidays from299 per person
luxury5-star holidays from499 per person
Family holidays from 1,299
all-in holiday packages with great local
guides from 439 per person
Did you know you can now book your entire
holiday on aerlingus.com? Book ights, good
quality accommodation and transfers from
one website!
Customers can now book sun holidays,
city Breaks and sightseeing holidays to
all Aer Lingus destinations from Dublin and
Cork. With great ight prices and high quality
accommodation, you know you are getting the
best from Holidays with Aer Lingus.
Design your perfect holiday online with ease;
any date, any duration and any destination! Plus
weve a great price comparison tool to help
save you even more money. All the holidays are
bonded, giving you extra piece of mind. Whether
you are looking for a family holiday, a romantic
getaway for two, a luxury break or a great value
city break, its all here on Holidays with Aer
Lingus. Great holidays at amazing prices and all
on one site Holidays with Aer Lingus is the easy
way to holiday!
Bookingyour holiday just
got easier introducing
holidays with aer lingus!
Aer Lingus is proud to support the Irish Olympic Team. We wish
all those involved a happy and successful Olympic Games and we look
forward to welcoming the Irish Olympic Teamon board.
Check out these great holidays by visiting holidayswithaerlingus.com or go
to aerlingus.com and click on Holidays.
june 2012 | 93
ACTOF VALOR
Action / Adventure / Thriller (R)
110 minutes
An unprecedented blend of real-life
heroismand original lmmaking, Act of Valor
stars a group of active-duty US Navy SEALs
in a lmlike no other in Hollywoods history.
Act of Valor features a gripping story that
takes audiences on an adrenaline-fuelled,
edge-of-their-seat journey. A mission to
recover a kidnapped CIA operative results
in the discovery of a terrifying global threat,
as a result an elite teamof highly trained
Navy SEALs must immediately embark on
a heart-stopping secret operation. This
ultimate action adventure movie showcases
the training and tenacity of the greatest
action heroes of themall: real Navy SEALs.
STARS Alex Veadov, Roselyn Sanchez,
Nestor Serrano
DiReCTOR Mike McCoy, Scott Waugh
More Movies On Demand
GONe
Amanda Seyfried
W.e.
Abbie Cornish
MAN ON A LeDGe
Elizabeth Banks
YOUNGADULT
Charlize Theron
GOOD DeeDS
Tyler Perry
GAMe CHANGe
Julianne Moore
STARBUCK
Patrick Huard
THe GReY
Liam Neeson
DARK TiDe
Halle Berry
JOURNeY 2:
MYSTeRiOUS iSLAND
Dwayne The Rock Johnson
A WARRiORS HeART
Kellan Lutz
LADY AND
THe TRAMP
Peggy Lee
TOOTHFAiRY 2
Larry The Cable Guy
DUMBO
Verna Felton
TANGLeD
Mandy Moore
JOHN CARTeR
Action / Family/ Fantasy (PG 13)
132 minutes
Directed by Academy Awardwinning
lmmaker AndrewStanton, this inventive
science-ction lmis based on the novel
series by Edgar Rice Burroughs. Former
military captain John Carter is inexplicably
transported to Mars, known as Barsoom.
Stranded on this lush, wildly diverse planet
whose main residents are twelve-foot
tall green barbarians, Carter becomes
a prisoner of these creatures. When he
escapes, he reluctantly becomes embroiled
in a conict of epic proportions. Carter
rediscovers his humanity when he realises
that the survival of Barsoomand its people
rests in his hands.
STARSTaylor Kitsch, Lynn Collins,
Samantha Morton, Ciaran Hinds, Dominic
West, Thomas Haden Church, Willem
Dafoe, Emily Mortimer
DiReCTOR Andrew Stanton
This Means War
John Carter
Act of Valor
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
THiS MeANS WAR
Action/ Romance/ Comedy (PG 13)
97 minutes
Chris Pine and TomHardy portray the
worlds deadliest CIAoperatives who are
also inseparable partners and best friends
until they fall for the same woman. Having
once helped bring down entire enemy
nations, they are nowemploying their
incomparable skills and an endless array of
high-tech gadgetry against their greatest
nemesis ever each other. The woman they
fall for is Lauren. Lauren cant believe her
luck as she has gone frombeing single to
dating two very handsome and perfect men.
As the guys realise they are attracted to the
same woman, their competitive instincts kick
in. This means trouble This Means War!
STARSReese Witherspoon, Chris Pine,
Tom Hardy, Chelsea Handler
DiReCTOR McG
94 | june 2012
iNFLiGHT ENTERTAINMENT
ALBERT NOBBS
Drama (R)
113 minutes
Five-time Academy Award nominee
Glenn Close stars as Albert Nobbs in
this emotional and thought-provoking
tale of a woman forced to live as a man
in 19th century Ireland. After 30 years of
keeping up the charade and passing as a
man in order to work and survive, a new
love threatens to destroy everything shes
worked so hard to build. Some 30 years
after donning mens clothing, she nds
herself trapped in a prison of her own
making. She hopes one day she might live a
normal life as we catch a glimpse of a free-
spirited woman caught in the wrong time.
STARSGlenn Close, Mia Wasikowska,
Brendan Gleeson, Brenda Fricker,
Janet McTeer
DiREcTOR Rodrigo Garca
More Movies On Demand
cONTRABAND
Mark Wahlberg
THiS MUST BE THE
PLAcE
Sean Penn
cHRONicLE
Alex Russell
WUTHERiNGHEiGHTS
James Howson
ONE FOR THE MONEY
Katherine Heigl
GHOST RiDER: SPiRiT OF
VENGEANcE
Nicolas Cage
HAYWiRE
Michael Fassbender
LA DELicATESSE
Audrey Tautou
JEFF WHOLiVES AT HOME
Jason Segel
JOYFUL NOiSE
Dolly Parton
THE VOW
Rachel McAdams
ScOOBY DOO! MUSic OF
THE VAMPiRE
Frank Welker
TOY STORY 3
Tom Hanks
THE PRiNcESS
AND THE FROG
Anika Noni Rose
BENEATH THE DARkNESS
Dennis Quaid
BiGMiRAcLE
Comedy / Drama / / Family (PG)
107 minutes
Set in Cold War-era 1988, Big Miracle tells
the true story of a small-town news reporter
and Greenpeace volunteer (Barrymore)
who enlists the help of rival superpowers
to save three majestic grey whales trapped
under the ice of the Arctic circle. The media
uproar captivates viewers around the world,
unifying the globe in a single cause of hope.
Inspired by the true story that captured
the hearts of people across the world, this
is a truly amazing tale of those who joined
forces with those of diering beliefs to save
a family of majestic grey whales in small
town Alaska.
STARSDrewBarrymore, Dermot Mulroney,
TedDanson, JohnKrasinski, KristenBell
DiREcTOR Ken Kwapis
21 Jump Street
Albert Nobbs
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
Big Miracle
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
21 JUMP STREET
Action / Comedy (R)
109 minutes
In the action-comedy 21 Jump Street,
Schmidt and Jenko are more than ready to
leave their adolescent problems behind.
Joining the police force and the secret
Jump Street unit, they use their youthful
appearances to go undercover in a local
high school. As they trade in their guns
and badges for backpacks, Schmidt and
Jenko risk their lives to investigate a drug
ring. They soon discover that high school is
nothing like they left it a few years earlier
and neither expects the terror and anxiety
of being a teenager again and all the issues
they thought they had left behind.
STARSJonah Hill, Channing Tatum,ska.
Brie Larson, Rob Riggle, Dave Franco,
DeRay Davis
DiREcTOR Chris Miller
june 2012 | 95
On Demand TV gives you the opportunity
to select and view your favourite TV
shows at your leisure. Look out for the
most anticipated new shows on TV in this
extensive choice of comedy and drama as
well as a variety of exciting genres. Brand
New COMEDYHIGHLIGHTS take in New
Girl, Raising Hope, Modern Family, The Big
Bang Theory, Family Guy, Mike and Molly
and from HBO dont miss Enlightened, How
to Make It in America, Bored to Death and
Curb your Enthusiasm. Classic comedy
features the brilliant Gavin and Stacey and
two episodes and a treat for the ladies in
Sex and the City.
As we witness a golden age in TV drama,
Aer Lingus brings you a captivating choice
of DRAMA TV with the availability of both
one-o and multiple episodes. Watch out
for an episode of Homeland, an intriguing
drama with an immensely talented cast,
this gripping thriller stars Clare Danes,
Showtimes edgy, edge-of-your-seat series,
is, bar none, the best thriller on American
TV. (New York Post) Also featuring is Boss
starring Kelsey Grammer, as well as Ringer
starring Sarah Michelle Gellar, The show
is great fun, and clearly the star herself is
having fun in the lead roles. (San Francisco
Chronicle) The always popular CSI NY
ON DEMAND
enhances this choice of popular Drama
programming.
Exclusively available On-Demand are
six episodes of Season 2 from the HBO
triumph Boardwalk Empire, Steve Buscemi
stars in this award-winning and hit drama
series that charts the continued rise of
organised crime at the dawn of Prohibition.
According to the Hollywood Reporter,
Its essential viewing. All of the promise
of last season looks to be realised with
impressively deft storytelling, beautiful
cinematography and impeccable acting.
Premium HBO drama continues
in Treme with the rst six episodes of
Season 2. This Emmy-nominated drama
series takes place during the rebuilding of
post-Katrina New Orleans, and charts the
interconnected stories of several struggling
musicians and locals as they attempt to
rebuild their lives through the music and
cultural traditions that make them, and the
city, unique.
One of TVs distinctive series is Mad
Men, set in a 1960s advertising agency in
New York; this complex, intelligent and
entertaining slick drama imagines mid-
century Americana as a dreamily, if painfully,
transformative era. Available On-Demand
are six episodes from Season 4.
Six episodes of
Season 2 of Blue
Bloods starring Tom
Selleck is one to
watch. Blue Bloods
is a solid, character-
driven, multi-story
serial drama. Sellecks
character serves as
the anchor for four
generations of police
ocers.
Award-winning
drama continues
with The Good Wife
a drama about a
politicians wife who pursues her own career
as a defense attorney after her husband
is charged with political corruption. Julia
Margulies has been widely recognised for
her portrayal of Alicia Florrick, winning an
Emmy in 2011, Screen Actors Guild Awards
in 2010 and 2011, a Golden Globe in 2009.
Available On-Demand are six episodes from
Season 3.
TEENS onboard can view Glee, Shake it
Up and 90210 and kids can enjoy Angelina
Ballerina, Bob the Builder, Fireman Sam
and Pingu.
LIFESTYLE, SPORT ANDMUSIC
HIGHLIGHTS include Other Voices,
The Brit Awards 2012, Glastonbury 2011,
Destination London, UEFA2012 Magazine
Show, HSBCGolng World, Masterchef
Ireland, Jamie Cooks Summer, Project
Runway, Biography Channel (retrospective
on Whitney Houston), Movie Talk and Inside
the Actors Studio (Brad Pitt).
DOCUMENTARYHIGHLIGHTS take
in Megafactories (Jack Daniels), National
Geographics Most Amazing Photos, David
Attenboroughs First Life, The Making
of Human Planet, Destination Extreme,
Waterways (The Royal Canal), Extreme
Frontiers (with Charlie Boorman), Horizons,
and the feature documentary Rise and
Shine: The Jay Demerit Story.
Treme
Mad Men
Modern Family
Television
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
96 | june 2012
Radio
ON DEMAND
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lets you
discover the latest
chart hits as well
as keeping tabs
on your favourite
artists. This up-
to-the-minute Pop show unveils the
biggest smash hits from the worlds
biggest artists. Featuring newcomers
to the scene Nicki Minaj and Emeli
Sand as well as established artists
Katy Perry, Usher, Coldplay, Adele
and the queen of pop Madonna -
do not miss the exciting sounds of
Chart Hits.
Othe Ball/Sport
Saturday
To coincide with the UEFA Euro 2012,
Newstalk presents O the Ball and
Sport Saturday highlights include
interviews with Paul McGrath and
Niall Quinn. The PPI award-winning
O the Ball is innovative and engaging
and manages to combine serious
discussion with an ability to make you
laugh. Catch the lads every night from
7pm. Sport Saturday presenter Ger
Gilroy follows the action as it happens
with his teamof reporters. Tune into
Ger Gilroy every Saturday from2pm.
newstalk.ie
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-listening
collection of songs from both sides
of the Atlantic, brought to you
compliments of The Fitzpatrick
Hotel Group USA. With two hotels
in downtown Manhattan, Grand
Central and Fitzpatrick Manhattan,
Fitzpatricks is the place to stay in
NYC. Visit their website for more
information tzpatrickhotels.com.
Fitzpatrick Hotels USA are also on
Twitter & Facebook.
Classical Daytime
Niall Carroll presents a selection
of great music from the heart
of the core classical repertoire.
Classical Daytime features some
of the worlds most loved relaxing
classics including Mozarts Clarinet
Concerto, Rodrigos Guitar
masterpiece Concierto de Aranjuez
and Saint-Saens Symphony No.3,
Organ. This show is the ideal
accompaniment to your ight and
Classical Daytime can also be
enjoyed on RT lyric fm Monday-
Friday from 10am-2pm.
My Tunes
In this edition of My Tunes Aedn
Gormley invites lm director John
Boorman to select, listen to and
discuss music from his lms. The
renowned lm director has made
Ireland his home and here he
discusses a lifetime of making lms
with a particular emphasis on the role
of music in his lms from the duelling
banjos of Deliverance to Richie
Buckleys snazzy saxophone tunes
in The General. My Tunes is on RT
lyric fm on Mondays from 7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm.
Jazz Alley
Donald Helme devotes Jazz Alley to
the most popular instrument in the
western world, the guitar, in both 6
and 7-string form. Helme focuses on
the guitar which only came late to
jazz, once the amplier was invented
in the 1930s. Featured artists include
Anthony Wilson, Chuck Wayne,
Howard Alden and the inventor
of the 7-string, George Van Eps.
Jazz Alley is on RT lyric fmon
Wednesday evenings from7pm-8pm.
Twitter @RTlyricfm.
Documentary On One
Documentary On
One is the multi-
award winning radio
documentary strand
fromRT Radio 1
(88-90FM). Currently
the most successful documentary
unit in the world; the documentary
featured here is On a Cape Clear
Day and focuses on an American
couple who retired to Cape Clear
Island o the coast of Ireland. The
website rte.ie/doconone contains over
900 radio documentaries all freely
available to listen to/podcast. You can
also download the free Documentary
on One iPhone and/or Android app.
Twitter @RTEDocOnOne.
Best of Moncrie
Best of Moncrie is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrie every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street.
Text 53106, email afternoon@
newstalk.ie or follow Sean on
Twitter @SeanMoncrie.
june 2012 | 97
Radio
ON DEMAND
Ceol na nGael
Ceol na nGael is a
traditional and folk
music programme
presented by
Sen hanaigh.
Sen presents the
weekly Irish and Scottish folk and
music programme Sruth na Maoile on
RT Raidi na Gaeltachta where you
can hear more music like this. RT
Raidi na Gaeltachta is the national
Irish language broadcaster in Ireland,
and celebrates 40 years on air in
2012. For more visit: rte.ie/rnag. RT
Raidi na Gaeltachta is on Facebook
and Twitter @RTERnaG.
RT Jr
Join Colm Flynn
and all his friends
from The Club on
RTjr Radio for a
fun packed show
to enjoy during
your ight! Theres music, a Disney
quiz, fun facts about ying, books,
and special guests Jedward! RTjr
Radio is Irelands only radio station
thats just for children. You can tune
in on your digital radio, online rte.
ie/digitalradio/rtejr Saorview and
on the RT Radio Player on your
mobile device to hear more.
Ronan Collins
RT Radio 1
presenter Ronan
Collins easygoing
personality is a
welcome interlude
from the busy
world around us. With a cheeky
grin, Ronan enjoys the challenge of
lling his programme with the kind
of music that will make you smile,
relax and reminisce. Tune in to hear
old favourites, new hits and hidden
gems. Twitter @RTERadio1.
Copeland Classics
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to you courtesy
of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world
renowned master tailor and provider
of mens designer suits for over 100
years. Louis Copeland and Sons
can be found in Dublin on Capel St,
Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin
Airport and in Galway on Merchants
Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo
Boss and Paul Smith all leading
labels are available at their stores.
louiscopeland.com.
Tubridy
Ryan Tubridys
unique
showmanship,
intelligence and
wit is broadcast to
the nation every
weekday morning. Spontaneous,
unpredictable, entertaining and
intelligent, Tubridy takes in everything
from the days news to huge
competitions, from big interviews to
human-interest stories. Ryan Tubridy
is one of Irelands most prolic
broadcasters and his RT 2fm show
raises the bar for morning radio.
Twitter @Tubridy2fm.
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2
is quite simply
the home of
the very best
music played on
any Irish radio
station. Phantom is committed to
playing brand new music, Indie Rock
but really we will play all genres of
music if its a great track, we will
play it. Oh, we also like having a bit
of craic along the way so why not
try something dierent and tune
into Phantom 105.2 we promise
you wont be disappointed! We are
Phantom music that rocks!
C
Cleared for Take-O
Youre
cleared for
take-o
every weekday morning from 6am
until 10am with Pat Courtenay on
Radio Nova. Also tune in to Nova
for Breakfast Reheated every
Saturday from 8am until 10am.
Courtenays show is a perfect
combination of entertainment
and of course the worlds greatest
guitar-based songs. You can call
Nova Breakfast on (01) 440 4 100.
Were online at nova.ie and you can
download our app to listen to us
wherever you are in the world.
The Big 10
The Big 10 on
98FM features
ten songs with
a connection.
Tune into the
countdown every Sunday morning at
10am as we countdown The Big 10,
each week a dierent set of songs
are featured each with a dierent
connection. Presented by Darragh
ODea of Dublins 98 FM, this special
edition of the show focuses on the
acts that will be playing concerts in
Ireland this year.
98 | JUne 2012
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resources, designed to help you work
more productively wherever you are.
Whether a Business Lounge in Dublin,
a Meeting Room in Cork or a
ready-to-go Offce in New York, your
Corporate Account card will open doors
in over 1200 locations across the globe.
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
oensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
ight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
inight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of ight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a ight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your nal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the ight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily ned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to y with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
ight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your ight:
Wear loose-tting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible eects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long ights to
prevent stiness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the eects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the eects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your ight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, oering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the ight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or coee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
measurements, illustrated below.
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your ight:
Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos,
overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security
rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage
apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA
security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency
exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS
REGIONAL
43cm
(17ins)
28cm
(11ins)
20cm
(8ins)
40cm
(16ins)
55cm
(22ins)
20cm
(8ins)
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
100 | JUNE 2012
Great Care. Great Fare.
GREAT CARE FROM THE GROUND UP
At Aer Lingus, we take great care in everything we do - from baggage handling, to catering, to customer
care. The people you see, and the people you dont, are all dedicated to making you feel welcome, every
step of your journey. Great care on every level - its one of the many ways Aer Lingus takes care of you.
153071 Aer Lingus Welcome Mat CARA FP.indd 1 04/05/2012 10:41
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ENROLMENT NOW TAKING PLACE
An exceptional opportunity to indulge in
the world of the Fine & Decorative Arts.
Enjoy lectures & tours to galleries,
museums & stately homes with Irelands
foremost Fine Art Specialists
Diploma Course (3 days per week)
Certificate Course( 1 Evening per week)
COMMENCING OCTOBER 2012
FOR ONE ACADEMIC YEAR
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Tel: (01) 678 5685
l
Fax: (01) 676 2890
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Web: www.ipav.ie
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I

V
To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Belgium
Brussels
Bulgaria
Bourgas
Canary Islands
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Republic
Prague
Finland
Helsinki
France
Bordeaux
Lyon
Marseille
Nice
Paris
Perpignan
Rennes
Toulouse
Germany
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Greece
Athens
Hungary
Budapest
Ireland
Kerry
Italy
Bologna
Catania
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Verona (new route)
Lithuania
Vilnius
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao
Ibiza
Madrid
Malaga
Palma
Santiago de
Compostela
Sweden
Stockholm (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Turkey
Izmir
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Edinburgh
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Jersey
Manchester
United Kingdom
Aberdeen
Birmingham
Blackpool
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
Southend
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Santiago de Compostela
Athens
Ibiza
For more information on schedules, please visit www.aerlingus.com
Bologna
Venice
Verona
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
Stuttgart Munich
Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
Brussels
Amsterdam
Hamburg
Berlin
Prague
Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
Vienna
Budapest
Nice
Rome
Milan
LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
Madrid
Alicante
Malaga
Faro
Lisbon
Fuerteventura
Lanzarote
Gran
Canaria
Tenerife
Barcelona
Bordeaux
Perpignan
Helsinki
Naples
Catania
Bilbao
Palma
Izmir
Stockholm
Toulouse
Dubrovnik
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Kerry
Edinburgh
Blackpool
Manchester
Isleof Man
Cardi
Bristol
London
HEATHROW
Birmingham
Bournemouth
London
GATWICK
Jersey
Southend
Bourgas
Rennes
Marseille
JUNE 2012 | 103
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon, Waterford & Gatwick
FROMBELFAST
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Las Palmas
Tenerife
Portugal
Faro
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
FROMCORK
Belgium
Brussels (newroute)
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice
Paris
Rennes
Germany
Munich
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Malaga
Palma
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
United Kingdom
London Gatwick
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey
Manchester
FROMGATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
FROMSHANNON
France
Rennes
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
FROMWATERFORD
United Kingdom
Luton
Manchester
Southend
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Jersey
Luton
Southend
Rennes
Nice
Las Palmas
SHANNON
CORK
WATERFORD
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Alicante
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Rome
Malaga
Paris
LONDON
GATWICK
London
Heathrow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
Palma
104 | JUNE 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & FromDublin, Shannon & Madrid
FROM DUBLIN
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
FROM SHANNON
USA
Boston
New York
(Via NewYork/Boston
with JetBlue)
Chicago
Orlando
FROM MADRID
USA
Washington DC
Chicago
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Washington
Orlando
JUNE 2012 | 105
Vancouver
Edmonton
Calgary
Winnipeg
Long Beach
Salt Lake City
Burbank
San Jose
Minneapolis
CHICAGO
Kansas City
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Aguadilla
Ponce
WASHINGTON
DULLES
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
Fort Myers
NEWYORK
BOSTON
Toronto
Bualo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Lexington
Burlington
Syracuse
PortlandME
Nantucket
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
San Diego
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Pittsburgh
Louisville
Richmond
Raleigh- Durham
Washington
NATIONAL
Baltimore
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
New destinations with
Aer Lingus, in partnership
with JetBlue, United Airlines
and Aer Arann
Getting to the US from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now US, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental US
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
By choosing to y to the
United States via Dublin and
Shannon with Aer Lingus,
passengers can avail of United
States Customs and Immigration
Pre-clearance facilities at
Terminal 2, Dublin airport.
This facility allows passengers
travelling on the majority of
US bound ights to clear US
immigration and customs before
departing Dublin and Shannon.
Customers arrive in the US
without any further processing
requirement allowing for a
seamless transfer to their nal
destination.
NEW YORK
Connecting with
JetBlue at JFK:
When you arrive from Dublin or
Shannon, simply hop on the Air
Train to JetBlues Terminal 5 for
your domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
BOSTON
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan International
Airport:
When you arrive from Dublin
or Shannon, proceed directly
to Terminal C for your JetBlue
domestic departure.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
CHICAGO
Connecting with United
Airlines at OHare Chicago
International Airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin or Shannon, make your
way to the nearby ATS (Airport
Transit System), which runs
every four minutes to your UA
domestic departure point.
Passengers from the US to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the UA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
ight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Connecting with Aer Lingus
Regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin Airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic ights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their nal US
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
106 | JUNE 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
Milan
LINATE
London
HEATHROW
London
GATWICK
Dublin
Shannon
Kerry
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Palma
Madrid
Geneva
Krakow
Naples
Rome
Venice
Dubrovnik
Warsaw
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
Southend
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Isle of Man
Birmingham
Frankfurt
Berlin
Hamburg
Stockholm
Helsinki
Munich Vienna
Cardi
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dubrovnik
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Hamburg
Helsinki
Krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Munich
Palma
Paris
Rome
Stockholm
Venice
Vienna
Warsaw
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus Regional
Aberdeen
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Isle of Man
London Southend
Kerry
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus
London (Heathrow)
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus Regional
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
VIA NEWYORK
with JetBlue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bualo
Burbank
Burlington
Charlotte
Chicago
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
West Palm Beach
VIA BOSTON
with JetBlue
Baltimore
Bualo
Chicago
Dallas Fort Worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
Nantucket
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Richmond
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
Washington (Dulles)
Washington
(National)
West Palm Beach
VIA CHICAGO
with United to USA
Atlanta
Austin
Charlotte
Cincinnati
Chicago
Cleveland
Columbus
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
Kansas City
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nantucket
Nashville
New Orleans
Omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Jose
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
VIA CHICAGO
with United to Canada
Calgary
Edmonton
Salt Lake City
Toronto
Vancouver
Winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
JUNE 2012 | 107
108 | JUNE 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
London is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIVINGAT TERMINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting ight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your nal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
(Irish Rail)
in association with
Fi rst Cl ass!
Book Today - Travel Tomorrow

ONE DAY TOURS TO


NINE DAY TOURS FROM
DUBLIN
Car Free - Care Free
www.railtoursireland.com
+ 353-1-856 0045
e-mail:
info@railtoursireland.com
Blarney Castle
and Gardens
kl:IA AIll lllAl lllk :WAVAllAlll
lunch menu 9.95
take out menu available
wagamama ireland
south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast
lunch menu 9.95
take out menu available
wagamama ireland
south king st | blanchardstown | dundrum | cork | belfast
with over 135 cafes around the world, theres always
something happening at the hard rock.
12 Fleet Street Temple Bar Dublin 2 Tel: 671 7777 hardrock.com
tm
City Centre
Dundrum
Dun Laoghaire
ASIAN
CUISINE
www.mymao.ie
Michelin Bib Gourmand
Classifieds JUNE_Layout 1 17/05/2012 11:31 Page 1
Miss Dior Eau Frache
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Enjoy the elegant chypre fragrance of Miss Dior in this new
fresh and luminous version with its blend of bergamot and
gardenia against base notes of patchouli.
Naked2 by Urban Decay
A taupe-centric palette of twelve neutral shadows (ve brand new)
in shades ranging from pale to deep, matt to sparkly. More beige
in overall tone than their rst Naked palette, this collection still
delivers subtle, neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes and everything
in between.
Spicebombby Viktor & Rolf
Eau de Toilette - 50ml
Spicebomb is the new masculine fragrance
from Viktor & Rolf. Electrifying, captivating
and fearless. He doesnt just explode he
goes boom. Spicebomb oers a highly
addictive explosion of spices, tamed by an
invigorating freshness. This new fragrance
is the weapon of mass seduction!
hope in a jar
60ml by philosophy
A unique sou texture originally created for the
medical profession and recommended by plastic
surgeons and dermatologists. It will improve the
look of multiple skincare concerns including ne
lines, rough texture and dehydration. A drink of
water for your skin.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and ashing
lights. It comes complete with batteries for hours of fun. Also
included is a FREE gift of a miniature plane key-ring.
110 | JUNE 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Storm Husky Puppy
Stormis a super-soft Husky that will
always be ready for a cuddle! A
beautiful puppy that will bring
a smile to his newowner.
Scents of Ireland Luxury Candles
by Tipperary Crystal
These luxury scented candles are made in Ireland using luxury fragrances
that evoke memories of Ireland. This charming gift box contains two
wonderfully natural scented candles. The Mourne Memories candle
has a fresh, clean mountain air scent while the Sligo
Shores candle will bring back memories of the
wild Atlantic shore to your mind. Also
contains two picture postcards.
Skagen Silver Mesh
Strap Womens
Watch
Stainless steel appeal. Signature
Skagen silver mesh bands connect
to a slim stainless steel IP gold
case with gold border. The vertically
brushed chrome dial features twelve
indicators made with CRYSTALLIZED
Swarovski elements.
Shamballa Bracelet with Crystals
and Natural Stones byAeon
This high-quality Aeon unisex crystal and natural stone
beaded bracelet is part of a growing trend in jewellery that
incorporates the healing properties of natural stones into
fashion jewellery design. The crystals have always been a
renowned symbol of peace, tranquillity and happiness. The
fully adjustable 18cm to 23cm bracelet comes
presented in an Aeon organza pouch.
Pleasecheckyour
SkyShopping
brochurefor
all prices
Tempting treats and great savings
Skagen Black Leather
Strap Mens Watch
Genuine style. This mens watch with a black
leather strap connects to a brushed stainless
steel case. The shiny black dial features twelve
chrome and white luminous numbered indicators,
a 24-hour dial and date function.
Sky Shopping
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing
quality items at reduced prices onboard during June.
JUNE 2012 | 111
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
112 | JUNE 2012
I thought the best ride at Disney
World was Splash Mountain. You
have to get into a cart to go up
this mountain, and there are little
animals that speak to you! Anyway,
when it gets to the top, it goes
down to the bottom really, really
fast. It went so fast that I lost
my hat! ... We all got wet even
Mammy and Daddy. But we werent
soaking wet. Tere was a camera
that automatically took a picture
of us all as we were coming down
the mountain. We had really funny
faces in the picture my face looked
scared (I wasnt, though).
We went to the Animal Kingdom
(on the second day). I really loved the
animals there. Tere were elephants
and one of the baby elephants was
wandering around by itself. My
favourite animal to see, though, was
the girafe but it was blocking the
road so we had to wait for it to pass!
It took a very long time. We also
saw crocodiles on the safari. I wasnt
scared of them ...
I saw some 3D shows. We got
special glasses so we could watch
them. Te Muppet 3D show was
cool there were bubbles in the
cinema! My brother was scared
of one of the Muppets and I
wasnt scared
of any ... But at
the end of the
movie there were
things popping up
everywhere and I
screamed! I dont
know why. Oh, and
in one of the 3D
shows, the mermaid
swished her tail and
everyone got splashed
with real water! Tat
was so funny.
We would love to go back to
Disney World sometime. We liked
playing with Graeme [McDowell]
he was so nice to all the children
there and the people from Aer
Lingus. Some of the nurses came
with us too.
When I came home I had a full
suitcase of cuddly toys. Our bags
were really packed but they werent
heavy because it was only cuddly
toys. I took hundreds of photographs
so I could remember it.
A
my was a normal, happy
six-year-old girl when,
completely out the blue,
in March 2011, she
picked up a virus that
attacked her heart. Te condition,
known as acute viral myocarditis,
was extremely serious and Amy
required a huge amount of help from
the staf at Our Ladys Childrens
Hospital, Crumlin involving a
three-month stay, the majority of
which was in the intensive care
units to pull through. Amy is still
receiving treatment but is getting
better every day and doing normal
stuf again. Amy and her family were
selected by Te Childrens Medical
and Research Fondation, at Crumlin
Hospital, amongst other sick
children to travel with Aer Lingus as
a guest of golfer Graeme McDowells
GMAC Foundation. Here, she tells
us, in her own words, about her visit.
It was my frst time in America. It
was a great trip and went even better
than I had expected. I watched
movies on the fight over: Dolphin
Tale and Alvin and the
Chipmunks. Tat was fun.
Also, the food was nice I
loved the pasta! It had a nice
sauce on it. And I was so
excited I didnt sleep at
all on the plane. Well ...
maybe I had fve minutes ...
but that was all.
When we got to Disney
World we saw Mickey,
Minnie, and Ariel the
Mermaid ... she was in a dress that
day. And there were other princesses
there too. Its not that Im into
princesses, I just like Ariel.
We were there for four days and
it was brilliant. Te people were very
kind and they were always singing
and dancing. Tere were parades
every day. I liked that a lot, but it
was the best when the princesses
were singing and we all had to say
Dreams come true, dreams come
true and then all of these little
sparkles appeared around the castle
[it was freworks]. Tat was on my
last day in the Magic Kingdom.
Top, Jack, Amy,
and Grace
OGorman in front
of Cinderella
Castle. Above,
the OGorman
family with, from
left, Captain Keith
Reid, Graeme
McDowell and
cabin manager
Geraldine
Thompson.
True
Dreamscome
Seven-year-old Amy OGorman remembers a wonderful
visit to Disney World in Orlando, Florida, earlier this year.
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
Yes you can...
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010512 CARA_HTZ.indd 1 16/05/2012 10:57
O2-6956A-26 O2 Money Cara Mag.indd 1 3/9/12 4:24 PM

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