caramagazine.

com
AUGUST 2011 | 1
April/May 2012
HOLLYWOOD ROYALTY
Actress Glenn Close visits Dublin
GOING COASTAL
How to weekend in the Hamptons
THE KINGDOM OF KERRY
By bike, car or on foot
PLUS Colm Tibn on
Listowel Writers Week

BOHEMIAN BERLIN
Writer John Butler on
the hipsters city
INSIDERS VERONA
Where to shop, sleep and sightsee
48 HOURS IN STOCKHOLM
Explore the coolest city in
Northern Europe
COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Cup
Fever
Meet rugby star
Jonny Sexton
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AIB Corporate Banking
AIB - Irelands leading Corporate Bank
to Foreign Direct Investment
Diarmuid ONeill
Head of International Corporate Banking
AIB Corporate Banking
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
Tel: +353 1 641 4808
Email: diarmuid.e.oneill@aib.ie
www.aibcorporate-fdi.com
AIB Corporate Banking is a registered business name of Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c.
Allied Irish Banks, p.l.c. is regulated by the Central Bank of Ireland. Registered Offce:
Bankcentre, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4, Ireland. Registered in Ireland, No. 24173
For International Companies operating in Ireland,
AIB is the Corporate Bank of choice.
Sharing Your
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Were a corporate bank that thinks globally. We see the big
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banking requirements and overseas companies locating here
have benefted from that for years.
We have a dedicated unit focused on Foreign Direct Investment
in Ireland. But we also remember that, for a company setting
up a business in Ireland, getting the fnance in place is just
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In an increasingly complex business world, AIB Corporate
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FEATURES
28 ITS A KNOCKOUT! Its
rugby season, Dave Robbins
interviews some of the men
(and women) behind the
Heineken Cup
40 A CLOSE CALL Multi-award-
winning actress Glenn Close
tells Tony Clayton-Lea about
breaking the mould and Irish-
ising Albert Nobbs
46 THE KERRY WAY Pl
Conghaile gets into his
stride in County Kerry
56 SUMMER LIVING New
Yorker Julie Schwietert
Collazo on how to village
hop and people-watch in The
Hamptons
64 THE BEAUTY OF BERLIN Irish
writer John Butler visits one of his
favourite cities
85 AIRSPACE The nal extract of writer
Joseph OConnors poem celebrating
Aer Linguss 75th anniversary
Contents April/May
NEWS
04 ARRIVALS We meet Aer Lingus
passengers in Dublin Airports T2
07 NEWS DIARY Must sees: Dates
to note in April and May
08 NEWS HAPPENINGS
Its 100 years since the Titanic
went down: Victoria White
on commemorative events around
the country
10 NEWS HOTEL Get ve star
treatment at our selection of
luxury hotels
12 NEWS RESTAURANTS
Serving up the latest in foodie
news
14 NEWS PLACES Aoife ORiordan
hunts out Dublins foodie hotspots
16 NEWS SHOPPING Gadgets to
Go: Sive OBrien spills the beans
on kiddie-friendly must-haves
18 NEWS PEOPLE My Travel Tips
celebrated Irish composer Gerald
Barry on his favourite places
20 NEWS PEOPLE Whats in my
Suitcase lmdirector Dearbhla
Walsh on her travel necessities;
plus Easter events in Europe
22 NEWS BUSINESS O to the Big
Apple? Architect Maxim Laroussi
has advice for the business
traveller; and the ve best spots
in Brussels
24 NEWS BEAUTY TOGO
Summers coming! Liz Dwyer goes
light on foundation
26 NEWS BOOKS Shelf Life:
Bridget Hourican gives us the low
down on the latest reads
REGULARS
77 AN INSIDERS GUIDE TO
VERONA Mark Weston tells us
where to go in Romeo and Juliets
fair city
82 48 HOURS: INSTOCKHOLM
Discover Stockholms gems with
Philip OConnor
89 AERLINGUS INFLIGHT Movies,
music and more inight information
to keep you entertained
112 TRIP OF A LIFETIME Aer Lingus
cabin crew Lynsey Glasgow
on her trip to Zambia to see
UNICEFs life-changing work
64
46
The view
from Kerry
Berlins
best
40
Glenn Close in
Albert Nobbs
56
Weekend in
the Hamptons
16
Its childs
play
EDITORIAL
Editor Frances Power
Editorial Consultant Laura George
Editorial Assistant Cassie Delaney
Contributors Sive OBrien, Amanda Cochrane,
Liz Dwyer, Suzie Coen, Carlynn McCarthy
ART
Art Director Clare Meredith
Acting Art Director Joanne Murphy
ADVERTISING
Account Director Clodagh Edwards,
00 353 (0)1 271 9634
clodagh.edwards@image.ie
Advertising Manager Noelle OReilly,
00 353 (0)1 271 9621, noelle.oreilly@image.ie
Advertising Copy Contact Derek Skehan,
01 855 3855, dereks@typeform.ie
ADMINISTRATION
Head of PR&Promotions Linda McEvitt
00 353 (0)1 271 9643, linda.mcevitt@image.ie
Ofce Manager Tina Koumarianos
Accounts Olga Gordeychuk
BOARDOF DIRECTORS
Managing Director &Publisher
Richard Power, richard.power@image.ie
Chairman Patrick Dillon-Malone
Director Ann Reihill
Director Robert Power
PRINTINGBoylan Print Group
ORIGINATIONTypeform
Cara magazine is published on behalf of Aer Lingus by
Image Publications, 22 Crofton Road, Dun Laoghaire,
Co Dublin, Ireland, 00 353 (0)1 280 8415; advertising
sales, 00 353 (0)1 271 9625; fax 01 280 8309; image.ie,
email info@image.ie. Company registration number
56663
Image Publications Ltd. All rights reserved. Editorial
material and opinions expressed in Cara Magazine
do not necessarily refect the views of Aer Lingus
or Image Publications Ltd. Aer Lingus and Image
Publications Ltd do not accept responsibility for the
advertising content. Please note that unsolicited
manuscripts or submissions will not be returned.
All material is strictly copyright and all rights are
reserved. Production in whole or part is prohibited
without prior permission fromImage Publications Ltd.
Cara Magazine is a member of Magazines Ireland.
Image Publications Ltd is a member of the Press
Council of Ireland and supports the Ofce of the Press
Ombudsman. To contact the Press Ombudsman, visit
pressombudsman.ie or presscouncil.ie
Image Publications Ltd
PUBLISHINGCOMPANY OF THE YEAR 2010
TOADVERTISE PLEASE CALL NOELLE OREILLY
ON00 353 (0)1 271 9621 OR EMAIL
NOELLE.OREILLY@IMAGE.IE
Contributors
John Butler is a fan of short-term
sublets in large cities and hes not
entirely sure where he lives, apart
from Seat 6a on various Aer Lingus
fights. As a writer, Im unhealthily
obsessed with the idea of city-as-
character. My frst novel is set in San
Francisco, and I fnd the personality
of Berlin even more complex and
beguiling. My piece [see page 64] is a
primer, but heres a thought: if youre
looking to fnd a city, more often than
not, the best thing to do is get lost.
After a long stint as an editor with the Irish
Independent, David Robbins left to embark
on what he describes as a portfolio career.
Nowadays, he writes a weekly column for the
Independent, teaches journalism at Dublin
City University and looks after his six-year-old
daughter. As a former rugby player for Bective
Rangers RFC and a Leinster fan of long-standing,
interviewing rugby people for Caras feature on
the Heineken Cup, see page 28, was a dream
assignment. I even got to run out of the tunnel at
the Aviva Stadium, he says.
Julie Schwietert Collazo is a New York-based travel, culture, and
food writer whose work has been featured inNational Geographic
Traveler, Budget Travel andScientifc American. She has also
written for BBC/Lonely Planet and Fodors guide books. For her
feature on weekending on Long Island for Cara, see page 56, she
packed up her husband, photographer Francisco Collazo, and
their 2.5 year-old-daughter for a road trip. Most of my work tends
to be far from home, she says, so it was nice to work closer for a
change, and I discovered just as much of interest in Long Island as I
do on my regular beat in Latin America.
ON THE COVER
Jonny Sexton photographed by
Trevor Hart at the Aviva Stadium.
Make-up by Jane Gribbin.
Arrivals
4 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Au pairs, backpackers, weekenders and long stay
visitors, Cara magazine met them all at Dublin
Airports T2. Photographs by Anthony Woods.
Student FERENC FOLDESI arrives
in Dublin for the rst time. He plans to
stay for the weekend before heading
back to college in Berlin.
MARKGRUNTGES, left, and
CLESMAR LAYSER, right, are in Dublin for
the rst time for a guys weekend.
Thrillseeker JOE WYNN
is in Dublin to rendezvous
with his girlfriend before
embarking on a snow
boarding trip.
CHARLIE
ELLINGTON is in
Dublin for a week to
visit his girlfriends
family. The couple
met in Greece but
currently live in
France.
Londoner SAM
UNDERWOOD is
making a quick stop
in Dublin before
heading to the Big
Apple where he
works as an actor.
Friends HELIA
NEMATOLLAHI, left,
and MERLE REMY,
right, fromGermany
plan to spend three
months au pairing
in Ireland before
continuing their travels.
Student LINH NGUYEN from
Barcelona has come to Ireland to
study at UCD.
JOHANNA
RIVIRE has
own in from
Paris and is on
her way to Cork
to visit family
and friends.
W
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CARA ADVERT BT:CARA 31/08/2011 16:17 Page 1
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april/may 2012 | 7
Whats happening dates for your diary
3
Festival of Fools, Belfast
If you need a laugh, make
a beeline for Belast in
May where the Festival of
Fools hits the streets with
guaranteed thigh-slapping
tomfoolery and play-acting.
Street theatre performances
(see Mooky Cornish, right)
take place all over Belfast
city centre and Cathedral
quarter. Free to attend but
donations welcomed. Runs
May 3-7, around Belfast;
foolsfestival.com
20
Franco Irish Literary Festival,
Dublin
Catch some of our biggest literary
names at this cultural feast. Whether
its Nobel prizewinner Seamus Heaney
you want to hear, new generation
novelists Belinda McKeon, Claire
Keegan or Kevin Barry, or cross
cultural debates with renowned French
writers, its all here. For free! Runs
April 20-22, Dublin Castle, Dublin 2;
francoirishliteraryfestival.com
4
Dublin International Piano
Competition
A chance to hear some of the worlds
best young pianists play as the
25th year of this highly regarded
competition kicks of. The frst two
rounds are held in the RDS, with 60
talented performers whittled down to
twelve semi-fnalists. The grand fnale
is May 13, National Concert Hall. For
details see rds.ie and nch.ie.
16
Cannes FilmFestival, France
If youre not in the movie business,
you can still soak up the atmosphere
of the red carpet, the Promenade des
Anglais, the A-listers and catch some
of the glamour with nightly Cinema
de la Plage screenings on the beach
across from the Majestic. Pack a
picnic. From May 16-27 See festival-
cannes.fr for listings.
Aer LIngus FlIeS FRoM DuBlIN To nICe
DAIly, FRoM CoRK, Tue AND SAT, AND FRoM
BelFAST, Tue, THuRS AND SAT.
22
rHs Chelsea Flower show, London
Whet your appetite for Bloom in the
Phoenix Park, Dublin, with a visit to the
Chelsea Flower Show, the place to bag
inspiration and seedlings. Tickets from
16. Runs May 22-26, rhs.org.uk
Aer LIngus FlIeS FRoM DuBlIN, CoRK,
SHANNoN AND BelFAST To LonDon
HeAtHrow DAILy
news DIAry
April/May
21
All Humans Do, Sligo
Fresh from its New York showing, All Humans Do, a
cutting-edge show of contemporary Irish artists, comes
to The Model, in Sligo. For an update on the thriving
Irish art scene Rhona Byrne (see Its all up in the air,
left), Fergus Feehily and others this is well worth a
visit. Runs April 21 to June 28. themodel.ie.
8 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Centenary commemorations of the
sinking of the Titanic remember the
dreams behind the tragedy,
reports Victoria White.
Robin Ballard, who discovered the
wreck of the Titanic, her mighty
stacks pointing upwards, in 1985.
Te saddest connection we
have with Titanic is that 78 Irish
emigrants died, their chances
of survival greatly reduced by
travelling in steerage. Te parish
of Addergoole in Co Mayo has the
doubtful honour of having lost
eleven of its residents on the liner.
New stained-glass windows
will be dedicated to them in St
Patricks Church, Lahardane, on
April 15. One shows sisters Mary
and Catherine Bourke refusing to
leave husband and brother and get
into a lifeboat, a scene that was
remembered by survivor Annie
Kate Kelly. After Mass, Taoiseach
Enda Kenny will ofcially open
the Mayo Memorial Titanic Park
in Addergoole.
The emigrants made their way
to Cobh, a beautiful town tinged
with the sadness of emigration,
including the Titanic disaster.
But the other half of Cobhs
story is its past greatness as one
of the most important ports of
the mighty British Empire, and
a year-long events programme,
Titanic 100, is set to bring back
the towns glory days.
S
he was the biggest,
brightest liner ever to
cut the ocean wave and
she sank on her maiden
voyage drowning 1,500
people. Te story of the Titanic
has all the qualities of myth. It
seems to tell so many stories, to
herald the First World War, to
expose class divisions, to question
the rampant capitalism that had
launched it.
Te ship was born in Belfast
and her last port of call was
Queenstown, now Cobh, in
Co Cork. Te centenary of the
Titanic disaster on April 15 this
year ofers an opportunity to
revisit these stories that has been
enthusiastically grasped all over the
country.
In Belfast, the centenary is a
chance to rework a difcult chapter.
We were proud of this ship, says
Belfast journalist Susie Millar,
whose great-grandfather worked at
Harland and Wolf and went down
with the ship. Tere was a sense
that our pride was being punished
in some way.
Millar, who runs her own
personalised Titanic tours
(titanictours-belfast.co.uk) says the
sense of shame was intensifed by
instilled Presbyterianism at the
Protestant shipyard. But it wasnt
there that the mistakes which
caused the disaster were made. It
is clear that corporate greed was
behind it.
Te loss of three years of world-
class Belfast craftsmanship has
been left out of the story until
now. But a new Titanic rises above
Belfast in two great curves that
echo the hull of the mighty ship.
It is clad with 3,000 aluminium
panels, 2,000 of them unique, like
crystals on an iceberg.
Te iconic building houses
an audacious efort to recreate
the world of the Titanic. Te
visitor will be able to face the
massive gantry that was built for
the construction of the Titanic
and her sister ship, the Olympic.
Painstaking reconstructions of the
ships interior, from the frst-class
cabins to the engine rooms to the
fabulous, sweeping staircase have
been made.
Perhaps the most interesting
part of the Titanic Belfast
experience will be the Ocean
Exploration Centre, which will
use technology to explore beneath
the sea. It features live links with
the exploration vessel used by Dr
Adatewith
Destiny
Titanic
achievement the
launch of the
iconic Titanic
Building in Belfast
marks the start
of countrywide
commemorations
of the loss
of the liner.
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3topTiTanicplaces
1
titanic belfast makes a dramatic
entrance. the history and stories of
the boat and the city are explored
theatrically at the venue with:
Dan gordons The BoaT FacTory
(April 2-5), Jimmy Mc Aleaveys TiTans
(April 8-11) and an outdoor spectacle
fromgermany, TheaTerTiTanick
(April 15). belfasts grand opera house
hosts TiTanTic- The Musical, left,
a unique re-enactment of the ships
sinking. (April 10-14; goh.co.uk)
2
the parish of Addergoole, Co
Mayo, was home to 11 of the 70
irish people who died on the
Titanic. Fourteen set out from
Addergoole but three survived. Mayo
TiTanicculTural Week (April
8-15) includes the re-enactment of the
emigrants journey to Castlebar and
the tolling of the bell of st Patricks
Church, Lahardane, exactly 100 years
from the moment the iceberg struck
the ship. (mayo-titanic.com)
3
Cobh, Co Cork, Titanics last
port of call, is hosting special
events all year, including an
escape from spike island
triathlon challenge in August and a
titanic rowing Challenge, a charity
fundraiser that runs over four days.
TiTanic cenTenary Week runs
from April 9 -15 and includes four
Titanic-themed outdoor concerts,
with artists including Riverdance
composer bill Whelan. (titanic100.ie)
neWs diary
Barry John OConnor, actor
wears Brooks Brothers
D3746 ARNOTTS FASHION Advert CARA March 2012 FINAL.indd 1 14/03/2012 17:07
10 | april/may 2012
news hotel
Mondriansoho, newYork
The Mondrian Soho is as design-led as youd
expect partly inspired by Jean Cocteaus 1946
flm La Belle et la Bte, and partly by the hotels
chic urban surrounds. The result? A resting
place with all the grandeur and eccentricities of
romantic French design plus the joys of modern
metropolitan life. Chef Sam Talbots Imperial No.
9 restaurant draws the smart crowd for cocktails
and a plate of sustainable seafood, while the fact
that the shopping is superb means this a great
stay for guests on a weekend bargain spree.
iPads await guests in every room, as do iPod
docking stations and HD fatscreens. Rooms from
$431. 9 Crosby Street, New York; 00 800 496 917
70; mondriansoho.com.
therasia resort, italY
Just north of Sicily, the tiny volcanic island of
Vulcano is the southernmost of the Aeolian
Islands. At a neat 21sq kilometres, the island is
unspoiled and completely idyllic. Sitting right on
the coast, the Therasia Resort, which reopens in
May, boasts views of all the islands. In homage
to its surroundings, only local materials have
been used to restore the hotel molten rock
from Mount Etna, Sicilian terracotta and cedar
and olive wood. The hotel itself is minimally
decorated each room is basic but comfortable
and in the Mediterranean style with majolica
or wrought-iron beds. But the highlight is two
infnity pools with superb views of Sicily and
plenty of loungers for guests to soak up the sun.
Rooms from 221. Vulcano; 0039 098 525 55;
therasiaresort.it.
aerlingus FlIES FRoMDuBlINTosicilY, WEDANDSuN.
lougherne resort,
FerManagh
Part water, part grassy drumlin,
this part of Fermanagh is more lake
than land and lough Erne Resort
takes full advantage of its watery
surroundings with lakeside walks
and two championship golf courses
(World Number 1 golfer Rory McIlroy
is lough Ernes touring professional).
The Resort itself is a modern-built,
baronial style complex, with lodges
on the grounds. But for all that, its a
beautifully-designed spot, with deep
carpets and soft sofas, blazing fres
and comfortable armchairs. The sort
of place to sprawl with the papers
on a Sunday afternoon, enjoying
the umpteen varieties of tea and
cakes on ofer. Rooms from 110
B&B for two sharing. Enniskillen,
Fermanagh, 048 6632 3230;
lougherneresort.com.
Nomads will love the secluded haven of Teapot Lane in Co Leitrim. Nowin its third season, the glamping hotspot is about
to build its frst treehouse. Cant wait? Then, check out its glamorous yurts; glampingireland.ie
Escape
New York chic, a London restoration and Sicilian charm hotels to book now.
st Pancras renaissance, london
Perhaps it is its proximity to Platform9R, but for whimsical high
Victorian ambience (with a modern twist), it would be hard to fnd
a better place to stay than the newfve-star Marriott hotel at St
Pancras. A 250 million, seven-year restoration programme has
transformed Sir Gilbert Scotts once-condemned neo-Gothic
masterpiece into a luxury hotel. Fromthe grand double staircase
to the trendy Booking ofce bar where you can swig draft beers
and Dickensian punches frompewter tankards, every last detail
is picture perfect. Rooms in the chamber suites have triple-height
ceilings and views through the back of the gigantic olympic
logo out over the train platforms. And yet, they are somehow
incredibly quiet. An ideal hub for anyone with children to visit at
lSE or university of london, research to do at the British library
or business in North london. Dont miss the in-house Marcus
Wareing brasserie either. Euston Road, london, 0044 207 841
3540; toll free 1 800 409 929; marriott.co.uk.
aerlingus FlIES FRoMDuBlIN, SHANNoN, CoRk ANDBElFAST Tolondon
heathrowDAIlY.
aer lingus FlIES TonewYork FRoM DuBlIN DAIlY, FRoM
BElFAST, TuES, THuRS AND SAT, AND FRoM SHANNoN, MoN,
WED AND FRI.
18821-AirportClub-Cara-FP.indd 2 12/03/2012 17:00:23
12 | APRIL/MAY 2012
KOYA, LONDON
In deepest Soho, Koya specialises in the
understated. Achalk board discloses daily-
changing specials such as tofu dumplings in
turnip broth and deep-fried wild garlic. Pale
wooden tables and benches give an uncrowded
elegance until the lunchtime and evening service
bring noise and colour. This is, after all, still
one of Londons most bohemian and eclectic
quarters. The menu is unapologetically simple.
Noodles: cold udon in hot broth; hot udon in
hot broth. Favourite combos include mushroom
and walnut miso, and heartier pork miso, all in
deep, steaming ceramic bowls. Theres beauty
in simplicity and Koya is winning admirers. But
be warned, they dont take bookings. 49 Frith
Street, London, 0044 207 434 4463; koya.co.uk.
AerLiNgus FLIeS FromDuBLIN, ShANNoN, CorK AND
BeLFAST ToLONDONHeAtHrOwDAILy.
STAYING IN? Home cooks will love the new APPetiser app frommulti-starred chef Derry Clarke with 60 easy-to-follow
recipes fromLEcrivains menu, rewritten with the home cook in mind. At the app store for a tasty 4.99.
JACKs wiFe FreDA, NewYOrK
Into the perpetually cool Soho neighborhood
comes Jacks Wife Freda, an exciting new
watering hole from husband and wife team Dean
and maya Jankelowitz. The couple met and
worked under the tutelage of Keith mcNally in
the renowned Balthazar. Now, their hospitable
hangout serves culinary expertise alongside
their winning personalities and the under-stated
results have proved to be something of a hit.
Dont expect architectural food, this is low-key,
kitchen supper stuf like pasta with garlic and
fresh chilli or the signature Jacks burger with
grilled tomato and fried onions. Its the kind
of dining thats easy, to the point and wholly
satisfying. When the sweltering New york
summer starts, opt for the thirst-quenching
cantaloup juice with crushed ice. 224 Lafayette
Street, 001 212 510 8550; jackswifefreda.com.
AerLiNgus FLIeS FromDuBLINToNewYOrK DAILy.
isABeLs wiNe BAr, DuBLiN
Bijou and perfectly formed, Ian Keegans intimate
new wine bar Isabels on Baggot Street is tucked
away in the former basement home of Lecrivain.
The simple pared-back design of exposed brick,
old stone and wine crates means the focus is on
the food and wine, which are excellent. owner
of winesdirect.ie, Keegan ofers an interesting
selection of wines by the glass. When we visited,
we found service haphazard but head chef Niall
oSullivans confdent cooking more than made up
for it. my starter of vegetable salad with organic
carrot, quinoa, harissa and carrot yoghurt, was
delicious. We tucked into a main of pan-fried
scallops with sweetcorn pure, black olive polenta
and crispy double smoked bacon and proclaimed
the dish very good indeed and headed of into
the night happy and replete. 112 Baggot Street
Lower, Dublin 2, 01 661 9000; facebook.com/
isabelsdublin.
News restAurANt
eigHt BAr AND restAurANt, gALwAY
eight Bar and restaurant in Galway is steadily
proving popular with both locals and out-
of-towners and come the summer, with the
arrival of the Volvo ocean yacht race, this
dockside spot will be teeming. From the
outside the restaurant is unassuming a chalk
board and beer sign are the only indicators
that inside some of the tastiest grub in the
country is being served up. The interior is
equally unfussy with an unsophisticated
painted concrete floor and a mismatch of
wooden furniture. The beauty of Bar eight (as
its known to the locals) is its seasonal menu,
much of which is organic, most of it local and
all of it at recession-friendly prices. Try the
roast pumpkin stuffed with organic lentils and
Bluebell Falls goats cheese (from ennis). Dock
road, Galway City, 091 565 111; eight.ie.
Food File
Fresh places to eat in Dublin, Galway, New York and London.
14 | APRIL/MAY 2012
D
espite the doom and
gloom of Irelands
more straitened times,
Dublins restaurateurs
have been busy giving
the capitals dining scene a new
lease of life, which is arguably more
interesting than during the years of
plenty. Te defning characteristics
of the eateries bucking the trend are
good food, individuality and value
for money.
Te fast-talking Joe Macken
is currently one of the citys most
prolifc restaurateurs, proving himself
a master at capturing the zeitgeist.
His pop up-to-permanent restaurant
Crackbird (crackbird.joburger.ie) was
an instant hit, serving a gourmet
version of the fast-food favourite,
fried chicken. Te aptly named
Skinfint (skinfint.joeburger.ie) in
Temple Bar followed late last year,
with its refned versions of grilled
pizzas with toppings like pulled pork,
fennel and mascarpone cheese.
Mackens newest buzzworthy
venture is Bear (bear.joeburger.ie),
which he opened in partnership
with Irish rugby star Jamie Heaslip.
Less fashionable cuts of meat are
championed in this quirky, sparsely
decorated space with bare light
fttings dangling above diners heads.
Macken believes that before the crash,
sky-high rents meant most would-be
restaurateurs found it hard to realise
their vision.
Tis is echoed by John Farrell,
proprietor of what is currently one
of the citys hottest new tables, 777
(777.ie). Farrell opened his frst solo
venture, Dillingers (dillingers.ie), in
Ranelagh, in 2009 in a site vacated
by a Michelin-starred restaurant. I
would never have been able to do
that before the recession, it would
have cost too much, Farrell says.
Tere were lots of people working in
other restaurants during the boom
DiningwithaDifference
Maisha Lenehan of
Bibis in Portabello,
right, with Claire
Geraghty, former
shop assistant
from the adjoining
boutique, Dolls.
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times with ideas myself included
who just could not aford to go
out on their own, he says. Tese
days restaurants are visually more
interesting and people can aford to
do diferent things.
Doing things diferently is just
what has breathed new life into L
Mulligan Grocer (lmulligangrocer.
com), a characterful old-style Dublin
pub that has been in existence since
the 1780s. It was about to go the
same way as an increasing number
of boarded-up public houses, until
Australian-born Seaneen Sullivan
and her two partners, Colin Hession
and Michael Foggarty, reopened its
doors in July 2010.
Mulligans new proprietors
kept all its olde worlde charm and
complemented it with a carefully
conceived menu and a vast range of
craft beers and whiskies. Te three
of us have travelled a good bit and
wanted to own somewhere we would
like to go, with good food and drink,
she says. With Mulligans doing a
brisk trade most nights, the trio has
just reopened another historic pub, J
Kavanagh on Dorset Street.
Ronan Ryan had a ringside seat
during the height of the countrys
spendathon, running several
fashionable restaurants before it all
came crashing down. Its the old
case of necessity being the mother of
invention, he says of his new venture,
Bite, a pop-up restaurant opening
later this spring on South Frederick
Street, with a bar and music late into
the night. Its cheap and cheerful
and the opposite of what we did
before, he says. So for diners at least,
the lingering economic storm clouds
have a palatable silver lining.
3ofthebest...
1
Best for authenticity an ofshoot of the frst Juniors
caf set up by brothers Paul and barry mcnerney
around the corner, Paulies Pizza is always packed
out. It serves authentic neapolitan-style pizzas, using
slow, proved dough, DoP mozzarella and san marzano
tomatoes cooked in a wood-fred pizza oven. 58 Upper
grand Canal street, Dublin 4, 01 664 3658; juniors.ie.
2
Best for Buzz at 777, yellow fn tuna tostadas,
taquitos, ceviche and braised beef short ribs are
just a few of the sophisticated interpretations
of mexican street food served up with style and
accompanied by an explosive array of mexican-
inspired cocktails. 7 Castle house, south great
georges street, Dublin 2, 01 425 4052; 777.ie.
3
Best for Lunch getting a table can be tricky
at Bibis, a tiny boutique-cum-caf, owned by
sisters Petria and maisha Lenehan, set in a red-
brick house on a quiet street in Portobello. those who
do can enjoy the likes of toasted hamand gubbeen
cheese sandwiches and to-die-for peanut brownies.
emorville avenue, Dublin 8, 01 454 7421; bibis.ie.
Inventive restaurateurs are putting value for money and fun back on the table in Dublin.
Aoife ORiordan picks out eateries creating a buzz.
news diary
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the Village is an idyllic setting to shop designer outlet
boutiques, which include Anya Hindmarch, Brooks
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Wolford and many more.
Enjoy the latest exhibition MINIHAN, showcasing the
award-winning flm photography of John Minihan, one of
Irelands most celebrated photographers, which includes
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NEWS SHOPPING
Packing up for the family? Panic not. Check out
our pick of the best child-friendly accessories to
keep little ones busy. By Sive OBrien.
16 | APRIL/MAY 2012
1
6
7
10
4
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Gadgets
11
8
5
9
2
1 KIDS SUNGLASSES Carrera Junior, 48 at sunglasses-shop.
co.uk 2 BEE SUITCASE Samsonite, 49 at babytravelshop.ie
3 THE TRAVEL BOOK Lonely Planet, 14.99 at Dubray Books,
36 Grafton Street, Dublin 2 4 IPAD COVERS iGuy by Speck,
39 at amazon.co.uk 5 DRINKINGBOTTLES Lego, 10.99 at
giftgenies.com6 DIGITAL KIDIZOOMCAMERA Vtech, 62
at littlewoodsireland.ie 7 DEN KIT Real Adventure, 37.99 at
thepresentnder.co.uk 8 BINOCULARS Early Learning Centre,
10 at Mothercare.com9 NOUGHTS & CROSSES GAME
4,50 at kiddaroo.co.uk 10BACKPACK Skip Hop, 15.20 at
cleverclogs.ie 11 PASSPORT COVER Yukari Sweeney, 12 at
Debenhams, Henry Street, Dublin 1.
Why travel far
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STRAP
18 | APRIL/MAY 2012
The composer talks to Suzie Coen about the places he
is drawn to for music and travel.
IN EUROPE, MY
FAVOURITE MUSIC
FESTIVAL IS The
Aldeburgh Festival in
England. Expect to enjoy
great concerts in a classic
British seaside town, made
all the more special by the
hypnotic sound of the sea
and the beautiful rolling
fenland.
MY FAVOURITE US
MUSIC FESTIVAL IS ...
The Ojai Music Festival in
northern California. Its a
haunting valley north of
Los Angeles. It served as
Shangri-La in Frank Capras
lm, Lost Horizon. Greta
Garbo used to visit
there a lot, so Im in
good company.
FOR MUSIC AT
HOME I LIKE TO
GO TO The
Willie Clancy
Summer School in Co
Clare. Its wonderful to
hear and see passionate
musicians in every pub who
are addicted to their craft.
WHEN I TRAVEL
I love to watch movies,
read magazines or
preferably snooze behind
a comfy eye mask. I like to
pretend to myself that Im
sleeping in my own bed.
I LIKE TO HOLIDAY IN
... Venice. I even lived
there for a winter season,
amidst extreme ooding
and snow storms.
Nowadays, I usually stay
with a friend on the
Giudecca opposite the
main island. One of the
outer islands, Torcello,
reminds me of the slob
lands in the River Fergus in
Clare where I grew up. I
nd that, often, theres a
dark mood in Venice, but it
ts into the dream state Im
in when Im there.
WHEN IN EUROPE I
LIKE TO STOP IN ... Paris.
A friend of mine has a room
in the Rue Forge Royale
near the Bastille so I
sometimes go there. You
should only have friends
who have places!
MYFAVOURITE
AIRPORT IS Key West,
Florida. Its like Casablanca
and Sunset Boulevard in one
Time for my close-up
Gloria Swanson territory.
Everything thrills me there
from the dusty streets and
the heat and the cool bars
to the fact that Tennessee
Williams lived there.
INTHE US, I LOVE ... Los
Angeles. Ive had two operas
performed there and always
stay in West Hollywood, a
neighbourhood I love. LA is
a place where many of the
leading European artists
ed to during World War
Two: people like Stravinsky,
Thomas Mann and others.
My great friend, Betty
Freeman, lived there. Shes
the Beverly Hills Housewife
in David Hockneys painting
of that name.
MY FAVOURITE PLACE
IN IRELAND I love
where I live in Dublin. Its
on Arbour Hill, which is
handy for everywhere Im
ve minutes by bicycle
from OConnell Bridge. I
also have a house in Fanore
across from the Aran
Islands in Clare and go
there quite a bit. Time
expands there. You can
be there for one night and
it seems like three in a
good way!
Clare-born Gerald Barry, one of the most innovative of contemporary
composers, has an impressive roll-call of creations in a career spanning three
decades. Firmly established on the world circuit, his music has been performed
by orchestras ranging from the Los Angeles Philharmonic to Irelands RTE
NSO and the New World Symphony in Miami to the Kirov in St Petersburg.
And his operas have been staged in Paris, Amsterdam, London, New York, Los
Angeles, Miami, Dublin and Berlin. Barrys current focus is the European
premire of his ffth opera, Te Importance of Being Earnest, which will be
performed at the Barbican Hall in London on April 26 and at the Symphony
Hall in Birmingham on April 28. Ten its on to a new piano concerto for the
Musica Viva Festival in Munich in 2013, and a new production of his opera,
Te Triumph of Beauty and Deceit, in Karlsruhe, Germany, in 2013, as part of its
renowned Handel Festival. What better man, then, to share his favourite places
at home and abroad.
3MUSICFESTIVALSTOMARKTIMEFOR
1
Le Printemps de Bourges Paris
April 24-29 Each spring, thousands
ock to Bourges to Europes most
eclectic music festival. Set over ve days,
more than 200 artists performon 13
stages throughout the city. Check out
the velvety sounds of Greys Anatomy
favourite, Charlie Winston, left, on
April 26 at Le Phnix. Tickets from32;
Le Phnix, Rives de lAuron, Bourges;
printemps-bourges.com
2
West Cork Chamber Festival
Bantry House, Cork June
29 to July 7 Pin back your ears
for nine days of music, with over a
hundred concerts including Aaron
Coplands song-cycle, 12 Poems of
Emily Dickinson, Faurs Piano Quartet
in C minor, Schuberts Death and
the Maiden and Mozarts quintet for
piano and winds. Contact 027 52788;
westcorkmusic.ie
3
Dublin City Soul Festival
Merrion Square May 24-27
The folks behind this city festival
know the way to our hearts. This low-
key annual fest is where good music
meets good food and is a wonderfully
mellow family day out. International
stars and national treasures provide
entertainment while you picnic from
foodie vans stued with gourmet
takeaways. dublincitysoulfestival.ie
Gerald Barry
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BLARNEY WOOLLEN MI LLS
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bl a r ne y , Co . Co r k , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Bunr a t t y , Co . Cl a r e , I r e l a nd
Bl a r ne y Wo o l l e n Mi l l s , Do v e Hi l l , Ca r r i c k o n S ui r , Co . Ti ppe r a r y , I r e l a nd
s ho p o nl i ne a t www. b l a r ne y . c o m
THE LARGEST IRISH SHOP IN THE WORLD
NEWS PEOPLE
20 | APRIL/MAY 2012
1 BAGVivienne Westwood, 545 at Arnotts, Dublin 1 2 PYTHONPUMPS Christian Louboutin, 775 at
netaporter.com3 DARPHINPREDERMINE CREAM98 at Harvey Nichols, DundrumTown Centre, Dublin 16
4 IPAD Apple, from479 at Arnotts 5 PINK CASHMERE SOCKS 40at Monaghan; monaghanscashmere.ie
6 GALAXY RINGMarion Woodburn, 125 at the Kilkenny Store, Nassau Street, Dublin 2 7 CHANEL
ROUGE ALLURE LAQUE LIPSTICK 32.50 at Harvey Nichols 8 KEEP CALMJOURNAL 7.99 at
peterpauper.com 9 NIKE AIR PEGASUS 45 at champion.ie 10 PENHALIGONS TRAVEL CANDLE
41 at Brown Thomas, Grafton Street, Dublin 2 11 JEANS 109.90 at Tommy Hilger Denim
12 SUNGLASSES Tiany, 363 at Brown Thomas
1
Easter Story Telling, London April
8 Kew Gardens is a magical spot at
the best of times, but this Easter,
a small Chinese folly, aptly named
The Temple of Imagination, above,
is the unusual setting for a group of
storytellers. Easter Sunday sees a
host of local story spinners share
tales of everything from the history
of chocolate to old Mayan myths. The
drop-in groups are free to all park
visitors. Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew,
Richmond, Surrey; kew.org
2
Handels Messiah London,
April 6 The Royal Choral
Societys performance of
Handels Messiah has been an integral
part of the UKs choral tradition for
over a century. Now in its 134th year,
the performance is conducted by
Richard Cooke and features soprano
Mary Bevan and mezzo soprano
Wendy Dawn Thompson. Expect
the roof to be raised. Tickets from
13. Royal Albert Hall, Kensington
Gore, London, 0044 207 589 82 12;
royalchoralsociety.co.uk
3
1916 Rising walking tour,
Dublin If you feel like taking
a walk on the rebellious side,
the 1916 Rebellion Walking Tour is
the choice for you. History mixes
with humour in this passionate and
mentally nourishing tour of the fair
city all hosted by award-winning tour
guide and author, Lorcan Collins.
Expect blood, sweat and tears of
laughter. Tickets 12. Tours start at
The International Bar on Wicklow
Street, Dublin at 11.30am, Monday to
Saturday, and 1pm on Sundays; 086
858 3847; 1916rising.com
4
Easter Event Rome, April 6
Just outside Rome in the region
of Abruzzo, the small town of
Chieti is home to Italys oldest Good
Friday procession. Local men and
children dressed in the colours of
the parish, complete the Stations of
the Cross. The torch-lit procession is
accompanied by a choir. The highlight
is a rendition of Miserere performed by
some 150 violinists; italy-tourism.info.
4
BEST EASTER
EVENTS
Dearbhla Walsh
To say that director Dearbhla Walsh is a frequent fier
is an understatement. Based in Dublin, the Sligo-born
directors work takes her all over Britain, Europe and
North America. Her list of credits include critically
acclaimed TV dramas such as Channel 4s Shameless
and BBCs Public Enemies and the BBCs mini-series
Little Dorrit (for which she received an Emmy). Tis
month, shes packing her streamlined suitcase to
head of to Prague and Rome to shoot the second
series of the European production of Borgia. All that
commuting hasnt dimmed her love of travel. She is
planning an eco safari in Kenya this year, followed
by a week in Zanzibar, while any spare time in Ireland will be
spent with friends in her much-loved mobile home in Brittas, Co Wicklow. Suzie Coen
1
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Whats in my suitcase
Our Team
is Your Team
At our launch in 2010, we said that without people, a venue is just a building.

Since then, we have hosted over 450 events, welcoming an impressive list of
Irish and International corporate and association conferences and meetings.
Our clients, from Google to Alcatel Lucent, from TM Forum to the International
Statistical Institute, have consistently praised, above all else, the warmth, calibre,
fexibility and can-do attitude of our team.

When you book an event at The CCD, not only will you beneft from an iconic,
world-class venue in the heart of Dublin, you will also be safe in the hands of
our award-winning team, whose goal is to deliver truly amazing events on
every occasion.

Since opening, we have won 11 industry awards, achieved ISO 9001 and 14001
accreditation, and a customer satisfaction rating of 96%. In 2012, our mission
is to keep improving and innovating, to become the best conference venue in
Europe.

We would love to talk to you about your next event, so call us today and
fnd out how our team can become your team.
Contact our Sales Team on: +353 1 856 0000
Email: sales@theccd.ie or visit: www.theccd.ie
C
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ospitality
22 | APRIL/MAY 2012
NEWS BUSINESS TRAVEL
Where to eat, sleep and do business in NewYork and Brussels? Lisa Hughes reports.
SmartTRAVELLER
1
HILTON BRUSSELS Just ve minutes
walk from the World Trade Centre,
the Hilton Brussels oers four sunlit
meeting rooms, has wi throughout
and oers two business centres with
everything from photocopiers to a courier
service. (Place Rogier 20, 0032 2203 3125,
hilton.co.uk/brusselscity)
2
ALOFT BRUSSELS SHUMAN In the
heart of the European quarter, Aloft
Shuman is across the street from
the Council and a ve-minute walk from
Parliament, making it the top choice for
doing business in the EU. The hotel mixes
work and play by having DJs, happy hours
and signature cocktails at its trendy W xyz
bar. (Place Jean Rey, 0032 2800 0888,
aloftbrussels.com)
3
BEMANOS Frequently voted
the trendiest hotel in Brussels ,
BeManos is only a ten-minute walk
from the Gare Midi station (the hotel
oers a free shuttle bus back and forth)
and manages to combine arty design with
home comforts. (23 Square de laviation,
0032 2520 6565, bemanos.com)
4
GRESHAMBELSONHOTEL
Comes recommended as
somewhere aordable and close to
the airport. Just a few minutes away from
the NATO headquarters, the hotel oers
complimentary transport to and from the
airport and to the nearby business parks.
(Hotel Brussels, Avenue des Anciens
Combattants - Oudstrijderslaan 1, 0032
2708 3100, gresham-hotels-brussels.com)
5
PROGRESSHOTEL This four-star
hotel, below, is close to business and
nancial districts and oers a modern
business centre where guests can hold
meetings or conferences. (9 Rue du Progress,
0032 2205 17 00, progresshotel.be)
5
BESTBUSINESS
HOTELSINBRUSSELS
MAXIMLAROUSSI
The Irish-based director of
Architecture Republic travels
to New York every three
weeks, where the company
has just finished designing
Orla Kielys first flagship
store in SoHo.
Best memory
Arriving in
Manhattan in the early
morning, during what
photographers call the
golden hour and the whole
city skyline is wrapped in
a magical gown of orange,
red, purple and yellow.
Best spot for business
meetings Bryant Park
(bryantpark.org), behind the
New York Public Library.
Very easy to nd and it has
a great cafe, restaurant, a
library and a fabulous park
all in one.
Business lunches
Balthazar on Spring
Street (balthazarny.com)
for traditional bistro,
Cafe Gitane, Mott Street
(cafegitanenyc.com) for
superb coee and the
Grand Central Oyster Bar,
Grand Central Station, 42nd
Street (oysterbarny.com).
Business drinks Take
your client for a stroll on
the High Line Park, before
crossing through the hotel
and having drinks at The
Standard (848 Washington
Street, Greenwich Village,
NY 10014; standardhotels.
com). The Mercer (147
Mercer Street, SoHo, NY
10012; mercerhotel.com) or
King Cole Bar & Lounge
(St Regis Hotel, 2 East
55th Street; stregisnewyork.
com) are also good bars for
getting down to business.
Best hotels
Accommodation tends
to be expensive in New
York but affordable hotels
include the Soho Grand
Hotel (310 West Broadway;
sohogrand.com) and
Hotel on Rivington (107
Rivington Street;
hotelonrivington.com).
Getting around Buy an
unlimited weekly ticket
and use public transport
you can even get to
the airport with it. If you
want to see more of the
city, hire a bike or a scooter
preferably a Vespa for
a bit of La Dolce Vita! (or
bikerentalcentralpark.com)
Doing business in NYC for
the rst time New York
is a shoppers paradise but
don t overload yourself by
buying things unless you
have to make it up to your
partner!
Budget business travel tip
Buy a temporary mobile
number if you will be making
a lot of local phone calls.
There are plenty of wireless
connections throughout
town so combine work and
pleasure and do your work
in the city.
Always Stay somewhere
new each time you visit and
youll get to know New York
much quicker. Finally, be
friendly, put on a great smile
and a lot of doors will
open to you.
LITTLEBLACKBOOKNEWYORKCITY
Make your own 3D movies on your travels
and play them back with the LG Optimus 3D
Smartphone. Compact and business-like, the
Optimus 3D is partnered with YouTube 3D, so you
can share your films straight from your handset to
the site. 449.95 at carphonewarehouse.com.
MUST-HAVE TRAVEL GADGET LG OPTIMUS 3D SMARTPHONE
P
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ely bar & brasserie, IFSC, Dublin 1
ely wine bar, 22 Ely Place, Dublin 2
ely gastro pub, Grand Canal Square, Dublin 2
book online or call + 353 1 633 9988
www.elywinebar.com
wonderfully smart,
clean food with ingredients
that are sourced as carefully
as they source their
benchmark wines.
The Bridgestone
100 Best Restaurants
in Ireland 2012.
ely ad for Cara April2012.indd 1 06/03/2012 16:33
24 | FEBRUARY/MARCH 2012
Beauty on the go
As summer appears on the horizon, its time to shed the heavy
layers and that includes your foundation. Liz Dwyer takes a
look at the BB cream phenomenon.
MY BEAUTY MUSTS
Nicky Kinnaird, the
founder of Space
NK, lives half her
life in the air and
claims to have
mastered the
travel thing. She
shares her in-transit
beauty tricks and tips.
Whats the one constant in your travel
toiletries? I always have Eve Lom
cleanser in there. Its
a cleanser, toner, eye
make-up remover
and mild exfoliant all
in one. And I pack
retexturising pads,
which are pre-soaked
in a mild glycolic peel
formula, to keep my skin clear.
Top tip for space saving? I normally
take sample sachets of shampoo and
conditioner instead of bottles. Also the
mini size Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray
is great for travel, after the gym, or if
you dont have a lot of time, and it helps
extend the life of a blow-dry by about
four days.
If you could only bring one product?
By Terry Touche Veloutee, its a multi-
perfection concealer, and Japanese wash
cloths you can use them on the face or
as a dry body brush before you get into
the shower and then with any shower gel
it becomes a great body scrub, resulting
in the softest skin possible. They are
also dirt cheap at around 4.
Your pre-beach holiday regime?
I get my fake tan on with Hampton
Sun Sunless Tanning Gel. What I
love about this bronzing gel is that its
klutz-proof, streak-free and imparts
a believable honey glowrather than
looking like youve just come back
fromthe Caribbean, plus it doesnt
take a lot of time to do.
Your skin heroes right now?
I do a lot of outdoor exercise and need
a good SPF so that I dont turn into one
big freckle, so I use NIA24 Sun Damage
Prevention SPF 30, then put By Terry
Hyaluronic Face Glow over that its
like an alternative to foundation and a
skin cream in one and gives the illusion
of perfectly bare skin.
LIGHTEN UP
Since they hit Europe last year, BB creams
have already earned cult status with busy
beauties. Short for blemish balm or beauty
balms, theyre a unique cocktail of smart
foundation pigments, skin optics, moisturiser,
primer and sun protection in one. Slather
on without any skill and skin still appears
fresh, glowing and radiant as if at the end
of a two-week holiday. Yet BBs are virtually
texture-less and blur over imperfections
and lines in their tracks. Better still, theyre
packed with SPF, hydrating and skin-
boosting ingredients, and almost eclipse
the need for moisturiser and foundation
altogether. Tree of our favourites include:
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Bring up the Bodies
by Hilary Mantel
(Fourth Estate, 20)
out May 10. Tis
sequel to the Man
Booker-winning Wolf
Hall covers just a
few months in Tudor England the
devastating period of Anne Boleyns
destruction. Tomas Cromwell, chief
minister to Henry VIII, is once again
the shrewd observer who watches the
king rage against his lack of male heir
and fall in love with the silent, plain
Jane Seymour, opposite in every way
to the vivacious Anne, around whom
the net tightens Its publication in
May coincides with the anniversary
month of Boleyns beheading in
Tower Hill in 1536.
Te Apartment by
Greg Baxter (Penguin
Ireland, 12.99) out
April 5. A nameless
American, ex-naval,
ex-contract worker in
Iraq, washes up alone
in an unnamed Eastern European
city. Over the course of a snowy
winters day he seeks, and fnds, an
apartment with the help of a local girl
he has known just a few weeks. Tis
terse and subtle tour-de-force segues,
without chapters, from the present
of these two people tracking the
city to their troubled pasts. Highly
anticipated frst novel and follow-up
to Baxters acclaimed Dublin-based
memoir, A Preparation for Death.
Just Send Me Word:
A True Story of Love
and Survival in the
Gulag by Orlando
Figes (Penguin, Allen
Lane, 20) out May
31. Lev and Svetlana
Mishchenko met as students in the
1930s, only to be separated by the
war of 1941-45, and Levs subsequent
imprisonment in the Gulag. From
1946 to 1954 they wrote to each
other twice a week. Extraordinarily,
they managed to smuggle their
uncensored letters in and out of the
Gulag. It is a remarkable testimony to
love and possibly the only major real-
time record of daily life in the Gulag
that will ever come to light. Leading
Shelf LIFE
A long-awaited sequel and books to travel with; Bridget Hourican previews new titles.
NEWS BOOKS
Russian historian Orlando Figes uses
the letters, KGB archives and recent
interviews to tell a story as gripping
as a novel.
ARMCHAIR TRAVEL READ
Running with
the Kenyans by
Adharanand Finn
(Faber, 14.99) out
April 5. In January
2011, Adharanand
Finn, freelance
journalist, packed his wife, three
children, and running shoes and left
Devon for Iten, a small town of the
Rift Valley in Kenya. His purpose?
To discover the secrets of the fastest
people on earth. A sports journalist
and former junior cross-country
runner he wants to know how
Kenyans manage to win all the big
races efortlessly, from city marathons
to the Olympics. He blogged his
six-month stay in Iten running and
training with top athletes and going
on safari to wind down on the
Guardian website. One for sports and
travel afcionados.
Whos reading what
Irish author Kevin Barry on what is keeping him entertained.
What are you reading? Zona
by Geo Dyer, a frame-by-frame
reconstruction of Tarkovskys
legendary (and some would say
legendarily dreary) lm Stalker
fromthe late 1970s. Its a measure
of Dyers talent as an essayist
that he makes of this unpromising
material a funny, captivating
and very smart book. Hes an
unclassiable writer and his stu
is never without interest.
Where are you reading it?
Im in Malaga city. I take
my summer holidays very,
very early, as the heat of true
summer in Spain would have me
in the back of an ambulance.
Malaga is a very nice 18 C
around now and, weirdly, its a
kind of hidden gem. Countless
thousands y into its airport
every day but they head straight
for the resorts of the Costa del
Sol. Theyre missing a buzzy,
cool, forward-looking but yet
very mellow city. And it has the
best fried sh in creation.
Favouriteplacetovisit? I live
in south Co Sligo, which means
that I can very easily zoomout on
cycling trips to the wild reaches
of Mayo and Galway. I love the
western seaboard and will never
tire of pedalling through its endless
drizzle and skinning winds.
Best book to take on a ight?
Im evangelical on behalf of the
great English short story writer,
VS Pritchett. His star has dimmed
a little since his death in 1997 but I
think hes a true great of the form.
His Collected Stories contains
work thats mad, tender, hilarious,
tense and heartbreaking, and
often all at once. Mind you, it is a
bit of a doorstopper to be lugging
onto a plane.
Kevin Barrys story collection, Dark
Lies the Island (Cape, 12.99), is out
April 24. His novel, City of Bohane, is
now out in paperback.
This Is HowIt Ends (Little, Brown) hits the shelves on May 24. Its author, RTE producer Kathleen MacMahon, made headlines
when her debut novel bucked the recession trend and scooped a 600,000 advance. The premise? Melancholic Dublin girl
meets ex-Lehman Brothers banker, who has sworn not to return to the States if John McCain wins the presidential election ...
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28 | APRIL/MAY 2012
PEOPLE
T
raditionally it was around
this time of the year that
rugby players put away the
boots and the wintergreen,
and fans hung up their
scarves. Another season,
with all its pain and glory,
had come to an end. Perhaps
there was silverware to show for all that
efort, or maybe just memories and
bruises. But, in recent years, the season has
not faded with the end of the Six Nations
Championship in March. Tese days,
April means the knockout stages of the
Heineken Cup; May brings the semi-fnals
and fnal. Teres life in the old season yet.
It used to be that when the Six Nations
fnished, the season was winding down.
Now, its almost just ramping up for
what is a fantastic end to a season, says
David Humphreys, director of rugby at
Irish province Ulster (and former Ireland
international out-half ). For over a century,
the pinnacle of the sport in Europe has
been the Five Nations Championship, an
intense, nerve-shredding competition
between the Irish, French, Scots, English
and Welsh. (Te Italians joined in 2000,
making it the Six Nations Championship.)
Unfortunately (at least for those of
us whose sanity and marital harmony
depended on such things), Ireland were
not very good at the Five or, indeed, the
Six Nations Championship. Only twice
have Ireland won all their matches (known
as a Grand Slam), compared to Englands
twelve, Waless ten, Frances nine and
Scotlands three. Ten, the stars aligned,
various forces combined and Irish rugby
was given a new stage on which to display
its abilities. In 1995, the game went
open (ie, professional) and the four Irish
provinces (Munster, Leinster, Ulster and
Connacht) became professional teams. In
the same year, the European Rugby Cup
was established, providing a competition
(the Heineken Cup) for the best club
sides in Europe to contest. It was not an
immediate success, but like a plane that
trundles along and then suddenly takes of,
it is now regarded by many as the premier
club competition in the world.
Tat frst tournament was won
by Toulouse, the aristocrats of the
competition. Tey have won the Heineken
Cup four times, a record likely to stand
for some time. But the Irish took to
the Heineken Cup in style. Ulster won
in 1999 on an unforgettable day in
Lansdowne Road (David Humphreys
dropped a goal), and then Munster took
up the gauntlet. Munsters exploits in the
Heineken Cup have become the stuf of
legend. Tey have won twice and been
losing fnalists twice, but their pool stage
games have provided some of the sports
most enduring memories. Te men in
red specialised in getting themselves into
impossible situations, and then getting out
of them. Typical was their 2003 match
against Gloucester. Tey needed to win by
27 points and score four tries against the
top team in England at the time. Te last
kick of the game secured the win by 27
points and four tries, of course. It is now
known to rugby fans everywhere as the
Miracle Match.
In recent years, the Irish baton has
been taken up by Leinster, holders of
the cup and winners in 2009. Tey had
their own Miracle Match in the 2006
competition when they beat Toulouse
35-41 in Toulouses Stadium Municipal
at the quarter-fnal stage. Overall, Ireland
As Heineken Cup rugby reaches its climax, David Robbins
examines its unique appeal and talks to some of the key players.
Photographs by Trevor Hart.
Knockout!
Its a
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 29
The player Jonathan Sexton
Its no wonder that Jonny Sexton loves the Heineken Cup. At just
26, he already has two winners medals and has become a kind of
cup legend. In 2009, he came on as a substitute in the semi-nal
between Leinster and their old rivals Munster. The match was
played in Dublins Croke Park and was attended by more than
80,000 people. No one who was there will ever forget it.
To kick at goal with my rst touch of the ball in front of
80,000 people was a pretty tough thing to do, he recalls. Your
career can go one of two ways with a moment like that. Luckily
the ball went over, and we won the match and got to the nal and
won that too. As if that wasnt enough, the Leinster and Ireland
out-half scored 28 of Leinsters 33 points in their famous win over
Northampton in last years nal.
Last year was an amazing campaign, says Sexton. The group
that we were in, we had a new coach and we felt we were up
against it from the start. To get out of that pool was like gold. And
then when we got out, we had a tough quarter-nal, semi-nal
and nal draw, so to win it like that was denitely really special.
The appeal of the competition for Sexton is playing on a big
stage. Its such a big competition, he says. We know that we
have to be on top of our game to get a win. Often in a league
situation, you might have in the back of your mind that if you lose
a game, then you can make up for it. But if you lose a game in
the HC, then youre struggling straight away. The group stage is
almost like a knockout stage in a way.
The atmosphere in the Leinster camp ratchets up a notch in
the week of a Heineken Cup match, he says. Its a tense place to
be, but its great to be a part of it.
30 | april/may 2012
people
Una Downey, 39, remembers going to her frst
Munster match (a pool game against Saracens
in 2000 which Munster won 31-30) as if it were
yesterday. Then my frst away match was the
semi-fnal against Toulouse in Bordeaux that
year. It was the kind of match where youd nearly
sell a kidney for a ticket. It was very special. We
even few home with the team, she says.
Downey, who works as a researcher at the
Innovation Value Institute, NUI Maynooth, and
lives in Drumcondra on Dublins northside,
has two special claims to Munster fame. She
was one of the original 500 supporters club
members in 2000 (It cost IR50 [63. 49] for
two years and you got two tickets to every
match) and she is probably the only fan to
have had a freplace removed for her team.
One year, Id got tickets for a Heineken
Cup quarter or semi-fnal and put them on
my mantelpiece at home, she recalls. They
slipped down the back of it, behind the wall. I
had to ring the builders and have it taken out.
You should have seen their faces theyd only
just fnished putting it in.
The fan Una Downey
have provided the Heineken Cups
biggest attendances (average of over
20,000 last year). And this season,
for the frst time, all four provinces
qualifed for the competition, with
three competing in the knockout
stages over the coming weeks.
Former Ireland international
Derek McGrath, who is chief
executive of the company that runs
the Heineken Cup (ERC Ltd),
smiles now at the rather shaky
early days when club rows and
negotiations over television rights
were hot and heavy. I took the
role [in 2000] at a time when the
English clubs had been out of the
competition the previous year, when
there were always questions as to
whether the competitions would
survive, he says. He identifes the
2001 fnal as a turning point. It
was between Stade Franais and
Leicester. Tere was a magnifcent
try to win the game for Leicester
as the away team. Tat, more than
anything, confrmed that this
Heineken Cup was special and
could produce special occasions and
that, yeah, were on the right track.
Fans from every country will
have their own memories. Some 60
clubs have played in the competition
at 98 venues in nine countries, and
attendance at the pool stages of the
2012 event was close to a million
people. Staging a big Heineken
Cup match brings in about 10
million to the local economy and
not all of it is spent on alcohol. Te
competitions (the ERC also runs the
Amlin Challenge Cup) had a record
turnover of 50 million last year,
and are planning a weekend rugby
extravaganza in London on the
weekend of May 18-19, when the
fnals of both competitions will take
place. Ireland will host next years
Heineken Cup fnal at the Aviva
Stadium and the city is also likely to
host the Amlin fnal too.
As rugby fans get set for another
dramatic fnale to the season with
the prospect of one (or even two)
Irish teams in the fnal players and
fans alike agree that the Heineken
Cup is no small beer.
For more information, see ercrugby.com.
Lounge.
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32 | APRIL/MAY 2012
PEOPLE
The boss Derek McGrath
Derek McGrath took a roundabout route to his current job
as CEO of the company that runs the Heineken Cup. Rugby
fans will remember him as a rangy wing-forward who won five
caps for Ireland in the 1980s. Then he worked for a veterinary
pharmaceutical company before joining ERC Ltd. Back then
[in 2000] we would have had a staff of four or five. Now, its
developed to the stage where we run two competitions, the HC
and the Amlin Challenge Cup, we had a record turnover last
year of 50 million and we have a staff of 15 here in Dublin,
says 51-year-old McGrath.
The Heineken Cup was not a guaranteed success there were rows
with the club owners in England and in France. But from about 2007-
2008, the tournament began to gain pace and we had some of the
great days, he says. I think of the days when Biarritz started playing
matches in San Sebastian and creating some great occasions, or some
great days with Stade Franais. It really began to come to life.
When asked about the quintessential Heineken Cup team,
McGrath doesnt hesitate: Munster. I think you have to look at
Munster and what they have set as a benchmark. Munster, Toulouse,
Leicester theyre similar. Theyre not big city teams. Theyve been
able to develop a close proximity to the fans and together build a
very close association that gives them an extra strength and builds a
sense of us against the world.
McGrath, who will be travelling to as many of the matches in the
knockout stages as possible, sums up the Heineken Cup nicely: At
every level, whether youre a fan, a player, a coach or a club, there
is a return on your investment and its a fantastic experience to be
involved with.
PEOPLE
32 | APRIL/MAY 2012
34 | april/may 2012
The ref George Clancy
Like many of the games best referees, George Clancy, 35, was a
player before he took up the refs whistle. He learned the game at
St Munchins College in Limerick city and then played at out-half for
the Bruf club, which also produced the Munster legend, John The
Bull Hayes. He served his refereeing apprenticeship at under-age,
schools and club games before being given his frst match between
professional teams in 2004.
It was in Galashiels (a town on the Scottish Borders) between
Borders and Dragons. I suppose they sent me there because if
you made a mistake, it wouldnt be noticed. When you start of,
everything is new to you what fight to get, where to stay, the
grounds, the players, says Clancy of his early days. The biggest
change for me is in dealing with the players they accept you more
the more games you ref and theres greater respect.
Now he is a regular on the international scene, and refereed
the opening match of the 2011 Rugby World Cup. The pitch is his
workplace. I like to keep it as formal as possible with the players,
he says, adding that he tries not to get caught up in the occasion
or the passion of the moment. Its funny, but it happens a lot in
refereeing that you only appreciate the game afterwards. When
its going on, youre concentrating so hard; you can t take your eye
of the ball for a second. If you do, youre in trouble.
people
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Theres an excellent shuttle bus service running the short distance out to the pub and
back to the city centre after the show. Bus stops are at convenient locations.
The pub has won numerous awards including Best Traditional Dinner & Show
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We are totally passionate about Irish song and dance says owner and band
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This terric two hour show runs nightly
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nights subject to bookings. The show
features fast paced song, music and
Irish dancing and is preceded by an
excellent four course meal.
36 | APRIL/MAY 2012
PEOPLE
APRIL/MAY 2011 | 37
The manager David Humphreys
David Humphreys was a key player in the Ulster team that won the
Heineken Cup in 1999, dropping a goal in the course of Ulsters 21-6
win over Colomiers. Now director of rugby at Ulster, and in charge
of o-eld activities, Humphreys, 40, reckons that win was a little
premature for the Irish province. We were a team that shouldnt
have won the cup. We didnt compare with a lot of the opposition
we played against. But it was one of those things that occasionally
happens in sport we got a lot of luck and everything went in
our favour. For me, that will always be the highlight of my playing
career, he recalls. In some ways, people might say, looking back,
that it happened too soon for us, because it almost meant that,
instead of trying to build on that, we felt we had achieved enough.
So we had nine or ten years when we didnt qualify. Thats a bad
outcome from what was a wonderful occasion.
This season, Ulster have qualied for the knockout stages
of the Cup and are facing Irish rivals Munster at their fortress
in Thomond Park. Its the acid test for us, says Humphreys.
Youve got to go to the hardest places and win. Ulster have
turned their Ravenhill ground into something of a fortress too.
Friday nights in the Heineken Cup in Ravenhill have been a big
part of it, he says. A lot of big teams have come there its a
wonderful place to play.
38 | APRIL/MAY 2012
PEOPLE
38 | APRIL/MAY 2012
The girlfriend Mary Scott
Mary Scott, 24, grew up down the road from her boyfriend, Devin
Toner, near Batterstown, Dunboyne, Co Meath, but they did not
meet until they were at university. He came along to my sisters
birthday party and when he walked in, I was quite the smitten kitten!
Weve been together for ve years and living together for two, says
Mary, who works for radio station 98FM and runs a bakery business
at cakechick.ie.
Toner, the Leinster second-row player, is hard to miss. At 2.08m
(6 10), hes one of the tallest players in world rugby. But, according
to his girlfriend, Hes the most relaxed guy in the world, even
coming up to a big match.
I go to all the home games and some of the away ones with
a couple of the other girls, says Scott, who lives in Sandymount,
just down the road from the Aviva Stadium. At the home matches,
theres an absolute gang of us. Leinster have made a huge eort
to make us all feel part of it. Theres even a family room for kids
there. On match day, well all be in the Leinster box at the Aviva
Stadium and then afterwards theres another room for the team and
partners. Then we might go back to someones house and see how it
goes from there. They warn people about going out with me because
it can turn into a late one!
She does not come from a rugby family but shes learned on the
job. I come from a family of girls and we knew nothing about the
game, she says. My dad bought Rugby for Dummies and hes now
an authority. Now Im like who are you and what have you done to
my real dad?
Watching Toner on the pitch takes some getting used to, she
says. I cant stand watching Dev play. Against Racing Metro, I
was watching Sebastien Chabal tearing up the pitch and he milled
straight into Dev. And sometimes when theyre lifting him in the
lineout, its like they lift him up and throw him away! Im like: Put him
back down carefully; I need him.
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PEOPLE

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IntervIew
40 | APRIL/MAY 2012
IntervIew
40 | APRIL/MAY 2012
She is best known for playing strong, scheming women (remember Fatal
Attraction?). Perhaps thats why, in her latest movie, Glenn Close cast
herself as a woman posing as a man in Victorian Dublin. She tells
Tony Clayton-Lea about her friend Meryl Streep, movies and the
making of the Oscar-nominated Albert Nobbs.
T
here is no doubting
that Glenn Close is
Hollywood royalty.
Along with her good
friend Meryl Streep,
she holds an enviable
number of award
nominations for this
movie, that stage play and something
else on television. Close has said
she and Streep often get mistaken
for each other although never on
Oscar night.
But the fact that Close was
short-listed for best actress at this
years Academy Awards for her
portrayal of the titular character of
the movie, Albert Nobbs wherein
a woman disguises herself as a
man in order to blend into male-
dominated, Victorian society was
good enough for her to feel validated
as a performer. As we know, Streep
scooped the Oscar for a third time.
Te thing is, I love what I do
and the craft of it, says 64-year-
old Close, who is talking to Cara
magazine two weeks before the
Academy Awards ceremony. She is
in Dublin to present Albert Nobbs to
a packed cinema as part of the line-
up for the Jameson Dublin Irish
Film Festival and, as the city-centre
hotel Te Merrion is efectively Film
Festival Central, it is here we meet
up. She is, inevitably, the centre of
attention (autograph hunters wait
patiently outside the hotel, ready to
pounce as she makes her way in and
out), but its clear that, while polite
and attentive to her public, she has
no truck with the nonsense that is
celebrity-hood.
Te way I look at it, she says,
is that there are several hundred
thousand actors in our unions, and
90 per cent are usually out of work.
How many movies are made each
year? In the Oscar nominations youre
one of fve up for it, so who can be a
loser out of that? I honestly believe
that no one is a loser in that sense,
but Im aware that the world likes to
have winners and losers. I understand
the entertainment value in that, of
course, but as it applies to my craft it
kind of doesnt make sense.
Nonetheless Oscar win or
not Albert Nobbs has been rightly
recognised and rewarded for its
quality. With a clever, ambiguous
tagline of A man with a secret.
A woman with a dream, the flm
charts the brief course of middle-
aged, hard-working waiter Albert
Nobbs (played with accomplished
serenity by Close), who wishes above
all else to strike out independently
as a shop owner and, in the course
AClose
C
a
l
l
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 41
IntervIew
42 | APRIL/MAY 2012
of doing so, to discover love and
forge family ties.
Te flm is based on the short
story, Te Singular Life of Albert
Nobbs, by Irish writer George
Moore. Close is no stranger to
the character, having performed
the role on an of-Broadway stage
in 1982 (for which she won a
prestigious Obie award). Its a safe
bet to say that getting the movie
made has been, if not something of
an obsession for her, then certainly
a cause.
I was just fascinated by the
story, she begins. For me, the
character of Albert Nobbs is
intriguing and highly sympathetic
she has very interesting psychology
in that she is more complex than
even she herself thinks. Im drawn,
actually, to characters that dream
against the odds and have no
self-pity thats a compelling
combination. Added to all of this
is Alberts navet, which was not
necessarily of the era, but you
have to note that Nobbs went
underground due to a major trauma,
and that trauma locks you up to
a large degree. She seems fne just
surviving. I found it very believable
because in a world where she has
no name, no family, no means of
making money, she is surviving and
doing pretty well.
As well as co-producing the flm,
Close co-wrote it with the help
of acclaimed Irish novelist John
Banville. He was, Close admits,
brought on board to localise (or,
perhaps, colloquialise) the flm.
I had a frst version of the script
completed by Gabriella Prekop,
about twelve years ago, and after I
read it I realised it had to be Irish-
ised. So I called up the director,
Stephen Frears, a good friend of
mine, and asked him to recommend
someone who would be great to
work with. Stephen suggested that
I contact John Banville. I have to
admit that I had never heard of him
at the time he just wasnt on my
radar
Banville, says Close, brought
a great sense of language to the
fnished/revised screenplay. It was
such a long process that I cant recall
whether there are certain scenes that
John had written that have stayed
in the movie, but his huge, on-
going and wonderful collaboration
was the language. Even when we
were shooting the movie in Dublin
in the winter of 2010, hed be
there virtually every day on call to
provide a word or a line to make it
as authentic as possible.
Te road to getting the flm
made began when Close branched
out beyond her acting duties into
production in the 1990s. She took
out a frst option on the story in
1998, and realised fairly quickly
that it was going to be difcult to
raise money for an independent flm
with such an unlikely theme.
Its even harder now, of course,
but for me to have walked into
numerous ofces in Hollywood,
looking like I look, and tell them
that Im going to be playing a
waiter in Dublin, in the early
1900s Well, people get nervous.
Tey cant make that leap, and so
I knew it was going to be a hard
sell. Tat was something I never
resented, by the way.
Hard sell rarely equals easy
money, however, and so it was the
wearying task of raising funds that
took up most of the time. Close put
up signifcant money of her own,
she reveals. I have two wonderful
producers, one of whom is from
Texas. We ended up getting our frst
signifcant tranche of money from
a very, very successful guy there
who works in real estate, and we
convinced him to come on board.
He had never, ever thought about
investing in a movie, but I think
now hes very happy!
A member of a prominent New
England family (her father was
once personal physician to Zaires
President Mobuto), Close had
an apparently idyllic childhood
growing up in Greenwich,
Connecticut. She studied theatre
at William and Mary College in
Virginia, and then forged an acting
career on (and of) Broadway from
1973 onwards until movie sets
usurped the stages. During those
early years of her professional life,
did she have any sense of where she
was going or what she wanted to do?
No, I just wanted to act, she
replies. At that time in the 1970s, I
The waiting game
Glenn Close plays
Albert Nobbs, a
waiter in Victorian
Dublin, in the
Oscar-nominated
flm of the same
name, alongside
Brendan Gleeson,
aka Dr Holloran,
and a raft of Irish
actors including
Antonia Campbell-
Hughes, Maria
Doyle-Kennedy
and Jonathan
Rhys Meyers.
In the Oscar nominations youre one of fve up for
it, so who can be a loser out of that? ... But Im aware
that the world likes to have winners and losers.
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Dating back to the 19th century, it was partly
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Situated off Dublins premier shopping street,
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Today it still has the authentic feel of a real
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The Quays, Temple Bar situated in the heart of
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INTERVIEW
44 | APRIL/MAY 2012
was very much thinking of theatre,
not of movies. I was New York-
oriented, and thats as much a theatre
town as a movie town. It was an
exciting time to start acting back
then for my generation of actors,
and I always had a very strong sense
of what I was attracted to. It goes
without saying, that the work starts
on the page not necessarily just the
character Im playing, but the overall
story arc, how its written, and so on.
For her frst three movies, Te
World According to Garp (1982), Te
Big Chill (1983) and Te Natural
(1984), Close was Oscar-nominated
consecutively for best supporting
actress. She modestly says she was
lucky to get good choices early
on in her flm career rather than, as
she so succinctly puts it, have to do
a piece of crap that I hate but need
to do. Along the way, she allows,
I think I havent compromised
too much. Plus, the things that I
thought were good at the time, but
which for various reasons didnt
work out, ended up being great
learning experiences.
A fnger-tap lands on my
shoulder. As is the case with
Hollywood royalty engaged in
promotional duties at a flm
festival, time is at a premium, and
so we have about two minutes left
to wrap things up. I cant waste the
opportunity, however, to ask Close
albeit briefy about two of her
flm roles for which she was Oscar-
nominated for best actress: that
of Alex Forrest in Fatal Attraction
(1987), and Marquise Isabelle de
Merteuil in Dangerous Liaisons
(1988). Have these roles somehow
defned her in the public eye?
Im not sure, really, she avers,
but what they might have done is
to make casting people or directors a
little bit more infexible in how they
would think of me in a role. I mean,
nobody would ever have cast me in
Albert Nobbs, which is why I had to
cast myself. In relation to certain
roles, that can be limiting because
with flms, in particular, so much of
it is about image.
You have me as Marquise de
Merteuil in Dangerous Liaisons, you
have me as Cruella de Vil in the
101 Dalmatians movies, Alex in
Fatal Attraction, and you have me as
Patty Hewes in the television show
Damages. Many casting people would
look at those and never dream of
me as somebody as fragile as Albert
Nobbs. Tat can be detrimental, but
only if you allow it to be.
Could she have gone the
marquee-movie way, perhaps, and
signed up for blockbuster after
blockbuster? Close shakes her
head. Im not sure that I ft the
marquee-movie mode, to be honest.
Essentially, youre talking about
movies that make a lot of money,
and there arent too many women in
my profession that make that kind
of money. Julia Roberts did at one
point, and Demi Moore at another
time. Tose women are usually in
their thirties when that happens, but
that wasnt my career path.
Do I mind? Not at all
sometimes its down to no more than
the right parts being in the right place
at the right point, and that doesnt
happen all the time.
Albert Nobbs is released in Ireland on
April 27, 2012.
9 LITTLE-KNOWN
FACTS ABOUT
GLENN CLOSE
1
When she was 13, her father, Dr
William Close, opened a clinic
in the Belgian Congo (later Zaire
and now Democratic Republic of
the Congo) and ran it for 16 years.
During most of that time, the
Close children lived alternately in
Africa and at boarding schools in
Switzerland.
2
Dr William Close was the
personal physician and close
friend of African dictator Mobutu
Sese Seko. Besides being Mobutus
private physician, he was appointed
chief doctor of the national army
and helped control the spread of the
deadly Ebola epidemic that aected
Zaire in 1976.
3
She likes to keep all her costumes
after the completion of a movie.
4
She was hired to dub all of Andie
MacDowells dialogue in the
1984 movie, Greystoke: The Legend
of Tarzan, Lord of the Apes, because
former model MacDowell had such a
heavy US southern accent.
5
In 1984, she became the third
actor to receive an Oscar, Emmy
and Tony nomination in the same
calendar year (for, respectively, The
Big Chill, Something About Amelia
and The Real Thing).
6
Her performance as Alex
Forrest in 1987s Fatal Attraction
was ranked Number Seven on the
American Film Institutes list of The
Greatest Screen Heroes and Villains.
7
She was the fourth choice to
play the role of Alex in Fatal
Attraction. Those chosen ahead of
her were: Debra Winger, Barbara
Hershey and Miranda Richardson.
Sharon Stone also auditioned for
the role.
8
She is a fervent dog lover,
and writes a blog called Lively
Licks for fetchdog.com, where
she occasionally interviews other
celebrities about their canine
friends.
9
She lives in Manhattans glitzy
Beresford Apartment building
(northwest corner of 81st Street and
Central Park West), which is also the
residence of Jerry Seinfeld, Diana
Ross, and several other celebrities.
Hollywood royalty
Glenn Close on
the red carpet at
the 2012 Oscars,
above, and in
Dublin at the lm
festivals screening
of Albert Nobbs,
above right.
M.J. ONeill
Suffolk Street, Dublin 2
Tel. 01 679 3656
www.oneillsbar.com
Mon-Thurs: 8.00am-11.30pm
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kerry
46 | april/may 2012
kerry
46 | april/may 2012
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 47
From rugged reeks to dramatic coastline, Kerry oers
some of Irelands best walking and cycling
opportunities. Pl Conghaile gets his boots on. And
author ColmTibn writes about the joys of Listowels
literary festival. Photographs by Peter Matthews.
The
Kerry
Way
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 47
KERRY
48 | APRIL/MAY 2012
A
cove cut straight from
the Caribbean. When
I pull into the wind-
whipped resort of
Ballybunion, parking
the car before one of
my shortest ever walks in Kerry, this
is the last thing I expect to fnd. Yet
20 minutes later, there it is. And Im
standing above it, gob-smacked.
Te cove is Nuns Beach, taking
its name from a former convent
fronting onto the clifs. Te coastal
walk from Ballybunion meets it
by veering north from the towns
promontory fort and curving with
the clifs for a kilometre or so. All of a
sudden, theres a wooden fence. And
looking down from that fence, I can
see gulls teeming around sea stacks,
stratifed shards of rock topped by
carpets of green grass, and waves
sweeping into nooks and crannies like
fresh sheets foating onto a bed.
All the more tantalising is the
fact that it seems accessible only by
boat. You had to be fairly nimble to
get down there, Padraig Hanrahan,
director of the local Ballybunion
Development Company and
himself a keen walker, tells me.
But somehow the nuns managed it,
shimmying through a cave in the
subsiding clifs, apparently, before
re-emerging on the brown-sugar
sands below.
All of this, without walking for
as much as half-an-hour. But should
I really be that surprised? Tis is
Kerry, after all self-proclaimed
Kingdom, home to Irelands highest
mountains, to its craggiest coast and
oldest oak woodlands. Most visitors
experience its scenery from the cosy
insulation of a car or tour bus and
its a fne way to do it. But walking
or cycling is fner.
Take the North Kerry Way, a
48-kilometre linear route heading
northwest along Tralee Bay to
Spa, before cutting cross-country
to Banna and Ballyheigue (great
surfng beaches, both). You can
quit here, or continue on a loop of
Kerry Head back to Ballyheigue.
Te terrain turns from bog roads
to sandy beaches, from feld paths
to bashful bohareens, and is hardly
touched by tourism.
If north Kerry is the hidden
gem, Killarney National Park
is the crown jewel. It measures
approximately 15 miles by 15
miles, Jerry OGrady tells me.
Hes an active member of the local
hiking group, Walk Killarney.
Previous pages,
going coastal
the view from
Valentia Island,
furthermost tip of
Kerry. This page,
top, the dark bulk
of the mountains
around the Gap
of Dunloe and,
above, the path
down onto Nuns
Beach is for the
sure-footed only.
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Its camping, but not as we know
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Portmagee is as close as it gets to
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Perched above Dingle, Pax Guest
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KERRY

Something for everyone to see, to do, to enjoy!

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KERRY
50 | APRIL/MAY 2012
But every kind of terrain you
could possibly want is within that
small area. From here, you can go
back as far as Carrauntoohil, over
as far as the Paps [the twin hills
near the Cork border] and down
as far as the southernmost part of
the Kerry Way.
OGrady is a self-confessed
passionate, dyed-in-the-wool
Killarney man, but even so, its hard
to challenge his assertion. Killarney
National Park is straight out of Lord
of the Rings. From gentle rambles
around Ross Castle to the four-
hour circuit of Muckross Lake, not
to mention Irelands longest way-
marked route the 215-kilometre
Kerry Way theres enough walking
here to last a lifetime.
Tis year will see a brace of new
lake walks, too. One is Killarney
in a nutshell starting walkers
of at the 19th century Muckross
House, taking them by boat across
the lake and through the Meeting
of the Waters, before pausing for
sustenance at Lord Brandons
Cottage. From there you can
follow the Kerry Way back through
the Derrycunnihy woods and
along the Old Kenmare Road,
descending on the Torc Waterfall
Trail back towards Muckross. Its
doable within four or fve hours.
Te best thing about walking
here whether following a toddler
through the woodland paths of
Ross Island, or working your
lungs like a bellows on the Devils
Ladder is the absence of trafc.
Freed from passing cars and buses,
you can touch trees, stoop down
to feel Lough Leanes lapping
waves, gulp down gallons of fresh
Kerry air. Killarney Valley, too,
is where you stand the best chance
of seeing one of the parks white-
tailed eagles, fourishing since their
Top left, Muckross
House is the
starting point for
a stunning circular
route, taking in
the woods and
Torc Waterfall,
top, right, and
encapsulates
Killarney in a
nutshell. Above,
Jerry OGrady, a
hiker and Killarney
man through and
through.
4 OF THEBESTKERRYGEMS
1
BEST PINT Despite having some
of the best pubs on the planet,
visitors are often surprised by the
paucity of local and artisan beers in
Ireland. Thats changing, however,
thanks to passionate operators like
The Dingle Brewing Company. Tom
Creans lager, named for Annascauls
Antarctic hero, tastes clean and
crisp, with a sweet infusion of Cara
Malt, and the best place to sample
it is the brewery itself an old
creamery on the outskirts of town.
(dinglebrewingcompany.com)
2
BEST FOR KIDS Jaw-dropping
chambers and dramatic calcite
formations are just the start of
the entertainment at Crag Cave
in Castleisland. The complex also
includes an adventure play centre with
a separate area for under ves, an
outdoor playground, an Avoca-style
shop and light lunches in the Garden
Caf. Good for a rainy day. (cragcave.
com; admission 12/5 or 30 for 2+2)
3
BEST VIEWBeing asked to rank
views in Kerry is like being asked
to rank pubs in Dublin. How do you
rate Molls Gap, say, over the Blasket
Islands? For sheer awesomeness,
however, you cant beat Skellig
Michael. The beehive huts, stony
steps and rainbow-beaked puns on
this shard of rock are extra special
because so many visits are thwarted by
weather. Its Irelands Machu Picchu.
4
BEST WALK Hiking isnt just the
preserve of modern visitors, you
know. More than 350 million years ago,
a tetrapod creature emerged from the
ocean to stroll along the shoreline of
what is now Valentia Island, leaving its
footprints ensconced in the mud. The
fossilised trackway remains in place
today, preserved as if in wet concrete
near Dohilla. (visitvalentiaisland.ie)
c12111_ads placement_small ads.indd 1 16/11/2010 01:01
KERRY
52 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Above, the view
back to the
mainland from
Valentia Island,
above, right,
shing boats line
the harbour in
Portmagee. Right,
Kerry perennials
sheep on a boreen.
reintroduction fve years ago.
Te sight is absolutely
incredible, OGrady says. Even as
chicks, youre talking about a bird
bigger than your average Christmas
turkey. Te last sighting I had was
two of them on the thermals, soaring
up and up and up, without so much
as a feather-fap, defying gravity.
Ten you have Macgillycuddys
Reeks, incorporating Carrauntoohil
Irelands highest mountain
at 1,038 metres (3,406 feet). If
Muckross House is all manicured
detail, this is pure wilderness, a
landscape of barren ridges and birds
eye views. Te Reeks should not
be undertaken lightly certainly
not without a map and compass,
and preferably in the company of
a guide. Te weather is notoriously
unreliable in these parts, and wind
and low cloud can quickly turn
narrow ridges treacherous.
Hardy hikers will know
Macgillycuddys Reeks as an early
feature of the Kerry Way a lengthy
route that few visitors are ft enough
T
he literary heritage of north
Kerry is rich and vibrant. The
town of Listowel alone has
produced two of Irelands best-
known writers of the 20th century
the playwright John B Keane and the
short-story writer Bryan MacMahon.
Listowel Writers Week happens,
then, in a place where the written
word is treasured. For writers or
students or visitors who come each
year, the town has a welcoming
air; the towns people respond to
newwriting with appreciation and
knowledge. The festival is intimate
and easy-going; thus in years past
Nobel prize-winners such as Seamus
Heaney and JMCoetzee could walk
the streets of Listowel and be left in
peace to savour the atmosphere and
enjoy themselves. But when they
did readings or gave workshops, the
venues were packed to hear them.
Listowel has a record also of inviting
not only such famous writers, but
also young writers at the start of
their careers and introducing them
to a wide audience.
This is where you hear new work
before it is published. I have a vivid
memory of hearing Neil Jordan
read from his novel Dream of a
Beast in Listowel when it was still
in his handwriting. The book is
now recognised as a masterpiece.
I also have a memory of reading
dicult new work of my own that
I was unsure about, and nding a
response in Listowel that gave me
encouragement to continue.
THE MAIN EVENT
Every year, readers, writers
and those in love with words
head to Listowel for the annual
literary fest. Author Colm
Tobn is a regular he extols
the pleasures of Listowel
Writers Week.
In Ireland now we need inspiration,
and this has come not only from
individual writers, poets, painters
and musicians; it has also come
from organisations such as Writers
Week. The festival has maintained
standards and made sure that
expansions and improvements
have not undermined the warmth
of the welcome and the sense of
community involvement. Listowel is
a place for people who love reading
or who want to write themselves.
The workshops and the literary
events in Listowel are food for the
soul and the brain. The great thing,
the special thing, is that while all
this is serious and important, it is
not ever solemn. And this can be
proved by the atmosphere when
the readings are over, the lovely
early summer night has come down,
and the pubs are full of talk and
laughter. That too is part of the
charm of the festival, part of the
reason why people come back to
Listowel Writers Week year after
year and why it is an essential part
of our literary calendar.
Writers Week takes place from May
30 to June 3, 2012 and will feature such
authors as Patrick DeWitt, Germaine
Greer, Jeremy Strong, Anne Enright,
Carol Birch, Simon Armitage, Julian
Gough, John Lanchester, Peter Taylor,
Belinda McKeon and many more and
also includes art, music, launches,
theatre and a full childrens festival.
Full details on writersweek.ie
WHERE TO STAY INLISTOWEL? If you fancy
picking up writing tips, book a roomat The Listowel
Arms Hotel where you may fnd the literati relaxing
over a pint in a frelit bar, listowelarms.com.
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APRIL/MAY 2012 | 53
to tackle. Like the Dingle Way, a
179-kilometre circuit of the Dingle
Peninsula, the Kerry Way loops
around the Iveragh Peninsula,
taking eight or more days to
complete. But even if you cant walk
these epic trails, there is a way to
experience their highlights without
succumbing to the anaesthetic
atmosphere of a car. Tat way
involves not four wheels, but two.
Cycling in Kerry makes me feel
like Im ofoading stress and tension
with every turn of the pedal. Tats
how Donnacha Cliford, who runs
the cycling website KerryCycling.
com, puts it. Ive been cycling
some of these routes for 15 years,
but every turn in the road is still a
wonderment for me. Te sound of a
light breeze in your ears, beautifully
fresh, clean Atlantic air in your
lungs, and not a care in the world
its a very hard feeling to match.
Some 143 kilometres of the
Ring of Kerry Cycle Route follows
quiet country roads, with the
remaining 74 kilometres running
alongside trafc on the N70. Its
recommended that you allow a
week to appreciate fully all the
towns, villages and atmosphere
along the way, cycling in a clockwise
direction. Moving at this pace
allows the landscape to unfold
like the pages of a novel, not like
feeting swipes on an iPad. You
appreciate the smaller details.
Men fxing baskets to donkeys in
anticipation of tourist photos, a
couple reading newspapers in a car
as rain pours down on Rossbeigh
EAT AT ...
Value and atmosphere don t always go
together in Kerry, but Packies is an
exception. Main courses range from local
lamb to wild salmon in this bustling
Kenmare institution, and starters such as
citrus lobster salad with homemade
mayonnaise are a cut above regular bistro
fare. Prices may be high by national
standards, but they include sides like fries,
roast vegetables and mixed leaves. (Henry
Street, Kenmare, 064 664 1508)
Pay As You Please in Killarney does
exactly what it says on the tin, by asking
diners to pay what you believe your
experience was worth. Pizzas, falafels and
zingy salads are typical dishes in the Market
Lane pop-up, with soup served in a
bread-bowl, something of a signature dish.
Funky projections enliven the space and,
when youre done, you simply pop a
payment into the box marked Pay Here.
(086 306 8253, facebook.com/
payasyouplease)
Quality seafood options abound in the
happening harbour town of Dingle, but even
in exalted company, Out of the Blue stands
out. Maybe its the location, in an old
herring smoking house. Maybe its the tiny
room. Or maybe its the blow-your-mind
Blasket Island scallops. Everything fresh or
alive, nothing frozen, no chips, says a
message on the chalkboard outside. Its a
statement of intent. (066 915 0811,
outoftheblue.ie)
With its name emblazoned in bold
lettering on the roof, The Oyster Tavern in
Tralee doesnt announce itself very subtly
but, step inside, and the seduction begins.
Dishes such as Dingle Bay prawns or roast
monksh in Parma ham complement wild
views outside, or you can budget with a
more basic bar menu. A classy little place,
but not so classy as to preclude an aul fella
with a cap at the end of the bar. (066 713
6102, facebook.com/oystertavern)
kerry
54 | april/may 2012
beach, the lifeboat bobbing of the
coast of Valentia, the clear waters
of OCarrolls Cove, or Daniel
OConnells duelling pistols at
Derrynane House. Te Great
Liberator once shot a man in a duel,
I learned on a visit to his former
home, after which he always wore a
black glove to Communion.
Whatever about Caribbean
coves, however, it should be said
that tropical weather is rarely on
the itinerary in Kerry. Sure, you
can throw a pair of shades into the
panniers. It may even be sunny.
But you may also end up drinking
pints of rain, getting blown
backwards by wind, or discovering
just how bad a shower of hailstones
can sting. In the summer months,
its advisable to take full raingear.
In winter, you might as well bring
sunscreen. Ive given up trying to
second-guess the weather last
time I visited Dingle, in July, it
rained so hard a mudslide mulched
halfway across the clif road.
Weather aside, there are rich
pickings on the Dingle Peninsula for
both walkers and cyclists (theres
no such thing as bad weather, just
bad preparation, as Cliford says).
Poking 50 kilometres out into the
Atlantic, and just 21 kilometres
wide at its broadest point, Kerrys
northernmost peninsula is home
to awesome beaches, hulking
mountains, colourful seaside
villages and big coastal plains.
Te Dingle Way walking
loop sets out from
Tralee, but I reckon
the best sections are
the westernmost
stretches, taking in
the saddle below
Mount Brandon.
Accommodation is
also plentiful along
the way.
Likewise, the
peninsulas best cycle
is the 46-kilometre
loop from Dingle through
Ventry, Dunquin and
Ballyferriter. Rounding the bends
here to spot the Blasket Islands
ofshore, or surfers catching breaks
at Coumeenoole as their dogs wait
patiently on a driftwood strewn
Hertz car rental Cara would like
to thank Hertz for their assistance.
For best car rental deals, visit
aerlingus.com and click on the
Hertz icon. Or call reservations
from Ireland, 01 813 3844.
gettingaround...
When walking or cycling in Kerry, always wear
appropriate clothing and footwear. Be prepared
for rain, and carry enough fuids, snacks and a
fully-charged mobile phone for your trip. Maps
and a compass are essential on mountain treks
and, even on easy loops, its sensible to tell
someone where youre going and when you
expect to be back. The Kerry Way features
some long stretches between overnight
accommodation possibilities, so walkers need
to plan carefully around these.
For tHe WaLker
Walk killarney (killarney.ie/walkkillarney) runs
a wide range of walks and mountain treks on
request, ranging from 2.5-hour low-level walks
(5pp) to difcult, 6.5-8.5-hour mountain treks
(30pp). Book at least 48 hours in advance,
1850 566 466 or email walk@killarney.ie.
For more information on walking in Kerry, see
discoverireland.ie/Kerry.
For tHe CyCLiSt
killarney OSullivan Cycles, 064 663 1282,
killarneyrentabike.com
ring of kerry Casey Cycles, New Street,
Caherciveen, 066 947 2474
dingle Foxy John Moriartys, Main Street, 066
915 1316
tralee Tralee Gas Supplies, High Street, 066
712 2018.
For more on cycling in Kerry, see kerrycycling.com.
strand - is the kind of sensation
cyclists never tire of. It was here
that much of Ryans Daughter
was flmed in 1969.
Of course, Kerry isnt
just about National
Geographic-style
views. Cairns,
standing stones
and crumbling
churches litter the
mountainsides.
Manys the tourist
who has seen lunch
last the afternoon at
Pidi Ss pub in
Ventry, or trekked through
an Endurance Burger at
Annascauls South Pole Inn. Te
latter was where Tom Crean retired
after his Antarctic exploits with Scott
and Shackleton, to be permitted the
odd Guinness by his wife, Nell.
Crean is famous for walking 56
kilometres in freezing temperatures
with only a couple of biscuits and
a stick of chocolate for sustenance
thankfully, hikers and cyclists in
modern-day Kerry do not have to
match those feats of stamina. In
Killarney, the gates to the national
park are a stones throw from the
town centre. Like the surprisingly
short distance to Nuns Beach in
Ballybunion, you could be ambling
its wood and lakeside pathways
within minutes.
gogreen
The 4.5 million Tralee Bay
Wetlands Centre is the newest
addition to Kerrys great outdoors. Visitors
can learn about the surrounding ecosystem,
as well as take a safari boat ride and enjoy
panoramas over the 3,240-hectare Tralee Bay
Nature Reserve from a 20-metre viewing tower.
Situated where the River Lee enters Tralee
Bay, admission costs 6/4 or you can
walk or cycle pathways for free in
the activity zone. (066 719-1355,
traleebaywetlands.org)
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Visit www.enjoyleitrim.comor call 071 9620 170
www.facebook.com/leitrimtourism
@leitrimtourism
explore...
Hikers and walkers can explore a myriad of majestical beauty spots across the county
whether they accept the challenge of Sliabh an Iariann (the Iron Mountain) with its
slopes and steep upper reaches, the sweeping Glens of North Leitrim or opt for the
more leisurely role of roving rambler.
experience...
This historic county which came into being in 1583. The magnificent Cavan Leitrim
gauge railway offers history buffs a chance to experience the age of steam transport.
Or gaze upon the labour of love that is the Costello Memorial Chapel, Europes
smallest chapel which was built by a local man in memory of his wife.
enjoy...
Europes longest inland waterway, the Shannon Erne and river Shannon meander
through the county. Leitrims lakes and rivers are renowned as somewhat of an
Anglers Paradise. Enjoy these unspoiled waters and avail of a well equipped cruiser
or better still sit back and leave it to the skipper of a local waterbus where whatever
the weather you can enjoy the picturesque splendor complete with commentary
and refreshments.
Thinking of a summer holiday or weekend getaway? Why not break away from
the norm and consider Leitrim. One of the most spectacular locations in the
North West, a traditional Leitrim welcome is guaranteed.
a county that you might
not yet know - but you
will never forget.
Less than two hours from Dublin and Belfast and only
40 minutes from Ireland West Airport (Knock)
To avail of special offers please use reference Explore Leitrim
when making your reservation!
Leitrim Ad 15/03/2012 09:29 pm Page 1
EscapE tothE hamptons
56 | april/may 2012
EscapE tothE hamptons
56 | april/may 2012
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 57
T
he Hamptons has long been
the it place for New York
City residents to get away for
the summer and the appeal of
this collection of villages on the
eastern end of Long Island seems
to grow with each passing year. To summer
in the Hamptons is to make a satisfying
tickmark on the New Yorkers bucket list.
Tough there are people who live here
year-round, the Hamptons really come alive
just after Memorial Day weekend (the last
weekend in May). Storefront windows are
shined up, the By Appointment Only
signs of autumn and winter are stored
away and the seasons social calendars
are fnalised. Beach bungalows from
Westhampton to Montauk are aired and
opened up as the population starts to swell
and business booms.
Te Hampton Jitney New Yorkers
preferred means of transportation to and
from the Hamptons rolls into the villages
more frequently. Its doors whoosh open and
the summer people with their designer
clothes and hurry-up suntans, as essayist
Wilfrid Sheed called them, step into the
salty air and adjust their sunglasses, ready to
see and be seen. Tus it begins: summer in
the Hamptons.
Many New Yorkers have summer in
the Hamptons down to an art. Tey know
when to show up and where to sun. Tey
know which restaurants serve the best food
and where unique beach souvenirs can be
found. And they know which events will
give them biggest bragging rights once
theyre back in the city. How do you get
your head around it as an out-of-towner?
Summer
Living
New Yorkers who descend on the Hamptons have summer stays down to an art.
But for out-of-towners, Julie Schwietert Collazo has the lowdown on where to go
and what to do in the Long Island villages beloved of VIPs.
Photographs by Daniel Gonzalez.
ESCAPE TOTHE HAMPTONS
58 | APRIL/MAY 2012
First, get your bearings. Te
Hamptons occupy southeastern Long
Island, referred to locally as South
Fork, and comprise about eleven
villages, starting with Westhampton
on the southwestern end and
working all the way up through
Southampton, Bridgehampton,
East Hampton and, fnally,
Montauk, on the southern side of
the fork. On the northern side is
Sag Harbor, also considered part of
the Hamptons, though locals like
to refer to their village as the un-
Hampton. While the villages are
grouped together as the Hamptons,
each has its own vibe. Sag Harbor,
for example, preserves much of its
past as a whaling village, while East
Hampton embraces its identity
as a more laid-back, coastal
version of Manhattan. Its
Main Street is New York
Citys Fifth Avenue in
miniature, with luxury
shops such as Tifany & Co
and Coach drawing deep-
pocketed shoppers.
Its possible and
advisable to choose one
of the villages as your base,
venturing out to explore the
other ones during your stay. Te
Hamptons are relatively compact
and you can rove about by car or by
bike, the latter being a good option
during the trafc-congested summer
months when parking is pricy, if it
can be found at all. Approaching
the Hamptons in this way will give
you a good sense of each villages
vibe. Inevitably, youll come away
with a favourite.
What all the Hamptons villages
share, of course, and what serves
as the main draw during summer
months, are beaches. Teres a
remarkable variety, from the rocky,
shell-ridden Montauk Point
Beach, picturesque with its
surf-casting fshermen,
to the wide expanse of
Wainscott Beach, and
the dune-swept, soft-
sand spread of Gibson
Beach. Like the villages
themselves, each beach
has a distinct personality
and attracts a diferent
type of crowd. Te young,
fun partying set heads to Sagg
Beach and Flying Point Beach;
show up in your best brand-name
bathing suit, with a beach umbrella
and your own cooler full of beer.
Slightly lower-key, family-friendly
spots are Main Beach and Indian
Wells Beach. Forget the beach
book that was recommended to
you as the perfect summer read;
people watching is the activity of
choice here. No one cares that the
northern Atlantics turbulent, tea-
coloured waters lack the calmness
and the crystalline topaz hues of the
Caribbean; its all the more reason
why the people are the Hamptons
main attraction.
Tough beaches are what most
people come to the Hamptons for,
theyre not the be-all and end-all of
summer social life. Stroll the shore
for seashells in the morning and
sunbathe for a bit in the afternoon,
but roll up the beach towel as the
sun starts to dip because the day is
still young. Good food, good art
and good times occupy afternoon
and evening hours, and their pursuit
pushes the most adventurous long
into the night.
Many of those good times are
organised by celebrities, and trying
to snag an invitation to an A-list
party is a prime pastime. But even
BEST
BEACH
How do you choose amongst
the Hamptons many beaches?
Take the advice of Dr Stephen
Leatherman (aka Dr Beach), who
releases an annual list of Americas
best beaches. He ranks
Coopers Beach as the
Hamptons best.
Previous pages,
kite surng in
the Hamptons.
Clockwise from
above, bathing
beauties Sagg
Main Beach,
Bridgehampton;
it doesnt get any
better than this ... it
could be the motto
for Hamptons
life; Main Beach
Easthampton.
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60 | APRIL/MAY 2012
if youre not so lucky, you are likely
to see a familiar face during your
visit. Author JK Rowling has
spent some of her Harry Potter
fortune on a home here, and
Madonna, Billy Joel, Martha
Stewart, Steven Spielberg and
Jerry Seinfeld are a handful of the
A-list names youd recognise on
mailboxes around town ... if their
names were listed on mailboxes.
Seinfelds spread is particularly
impressive, complete with a 22-car
garage (and yes, its full). Tough
they come here to retreat to their
cottages, celebrities are fxtures
on the local social circuit and
its unlikely youll return home
without rubbing elbows with one
or more of them.
Arrive on a Friday afternoon
and check in to the historic, upscale
Huntting Inn, right in the heart
of East Hampton. Literally steps
away from Main Streets shops and
restaurants, you cant fnd a place to
stay thats more convenient; its also
across the street from a Hampton
Jitney stop. If youre hungry, the
renowned steakhouse, Te Palm,
is inside the inn; it also serves fresh
lobster and other seafood dishes.
Popular among locals and visitors
alike, Te Palm consistently ranks
on Zagats best restaurants of Long
Island list, released annually.
If youre willing to range farther
afeld, Starr Boggs, in Westhampton,
is a must-dine restaurant known
for its seafood and its original Andy
Warhol paintings decorating the
walls. Conch chowder and crab cakes
are house specialties, but dont miss
Little Neck Clams, either; theyre
harvested fresh from the Long Island
Sound. Te restaurants mahogany
wood bar is a tantalising invitation to
tipple and, from your stool, youll see
the Hamptons glitterati parade past
en route to a table.
THE INSIDERS GUIDE
Originally from Dublin, Janet OBrien is a leading light on the Hamptons social scene not
just because shes on every guest list, but as the force behind her company, Janet OBrien
Caterers+Events Inc., based in NY and the Hamptons. She opens her little black book for us.
ESCAPE
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Beachcombers
souvenirs decorate
the shingle on a
harbour house.
Sag Harbor, or the Hidden
Hampton, is my rst port of
call. First up, the lovely hour
at The American Hotel is like
happy hour only prettier. This
vintage Victorian hotel on Main
Street in Sag Harbor hosts the
well-heeled crowd for lunch,
dinner or drinks. Be sure to
book a table on the porch for
brunch. (001 631 725 3535,
theamericanhotel.com)
Surrounded on three sides
by water, Long
Islands east
end is best
enjoyed by
sea. Whether
youre looking
for a casual
cruise or an elegant
yachting experience,
Jenny Landy can
arrange your charter
at East Hampton
Yacht Company. (001 917 743
2525, easthamptonyachtco.com)
East Hampton, voted one
of Americas most beautiful
villages, is home to c/o The
Maidstone Hotel, a country inn
with Swedish are. Its Living
Room Restaurant and Lounge
is the place to rub elbows with
notable celebrities. (001 631
324 5006, careofhotels.com/
maidstone)
Voting on who serves
the best Lobster Roll in the
Hamptons is more divisive
than national politics. With its
pond-side setting and catches
fresh from the sea, Duryeas in
Montauk gets my vote. Arrive
onsite with your bottle of wine
or grab to go to watch the
sunset session at Ditch Plaines
Beach. (001 631 668 2410,
duryealobsters.com)
Surf Lodge in Montauk
serves up killer cocktails
and sunsets. Its chill lounge
deck on Fort Pond with DJ
Rob or live music from local
songstress Nancy Atlas, is a
social epicentre and a favourite
of mine. (001 631 668 1562,
thesurodge.com)
The Hideaway, also in
Montauk, is a must for the most
delicious fresh and authentic
Mexican food. Its the perfect
aprs surf, aprs beach local
spot. (001 631 668 6592,
thehideawaymontauk.com)
Everyone, from kids to
hedge fund managers, is into
the surng culture of the
Hamptons. Your one-stop-shop
for all the gear you need and
lessons is Air and Speed in
Montauk. You can take surf
lessons by the day, hour, or
week. (001 631 668 0356,
airandspeedsurf.com)
The local farming
families that sell the freshest
local produce straight
from the eld (squeezing
tomatoes allowed) are
quintessential to my business
success. Visit Pikes Farm
Stand in Sagaponack on Sagg
Main Street just south of
Route 27 (001 631 537 5854)
or Halseys Farm Stand 512
Deereld Road, Watermill
(001 631 726 4843) and stock
up on the best produce for
your picnic.
april/may 2012 | 61
dont miss Discoverlongisland.comhas up-to-date calendars for current and
upcoming events in the Hamptons and surrounding areas of Long Island. Key
summer events includeJune 29 Southampton Fresh Air Home Beneft Fireworks
Show; July 13-15 ArtHamptons International Fine Art Fair;
August 26 Hampton Classic Horse Show
Eat at ...
the Living Room Local and slow
are the buzz words here. (207
Main Street, East Hampton, 001
631 324 5006, careofhotels.com/
maidstone) Harvest on Fort
Pond Plates for sharing at this
restaurant on the pond.
(11 South Emery Street, Montauk,
001 631 668 5574, harvest2000.
com/hfp) Lobster Roll The blue,
white and brick building, with
the words Lunch jutting out of
the roof, may seem unassuming,
but this is the best place for the
eponymous and obligatory
lobster roll. (1980 Montauk
Highway, Amagansett, 001 631 267
3740, lobsterroll.com) LtBurger
in the Harbor Big burgers chased
by chi-chi shakes at this celebrity
hotspot check out the signatures
on the wall near the register.
(62 Main Street, Sag Harbor, 001
631 899 4646, ltburger.com)
SLEEP at ...
BUDGEt Sole East Updated retro
chic. (Rooms from $189, 90 Second
House Road, Montauk,
001 631 668 2105, soleeast.com)
MID-PRICE the Huntting Inn
Historic and convenient, particularly
for visitors coming in on the Hampton
Jitney. (Rooms from $250, 94 Main
Street, East Hampton, 001 631 324
0410, thepalm.com/Huntting-Inn).
SPLURGE Capri Boutique Hotel
for the social set, with a shiny white
and bright beachy colour scheme.
(Rooms from $395, 281 County Road,
39A, Route 27, Southampton, 001 631
504 6575, caprisouthampton.com)
SHOP at ...
BookHampton East Hamptons
independent bookstore has beach
reads and local history. (41 Main
Street, East Hampton, 001 631
324 4939, bookhampton.com) Sag
LT Burger
Harbor Farmers Market Local goods
like honey and candles make easy-to-
pack gifts to take home. (Check Sag-
Harbor-Farmers-Market Facebook
page for current location)
DRINK at ...
Wolffer Estate Vineyard
Spectacular sunset over the
vineyard, with wine on the
stone terrace. (139 Sagg Road,
Sagaponack, 001 631 537 5106,
wolffer.com) Southampton Publick
House Brew at the Hamptons
oldest brewery. (40 Bowden
Square, Southampton, 001 631 283
2800, publick.com)
Even if you dont have an
invitation to an exclusive party,
you can still get in on the action.
Various websites and social
networking groups have sprouted
up recently to tip members off to
events; you can register for free on
a site like HamptonsUndercover.
com in advance of your visit to
receive VIP invitations. If that
all seems like too much work,
opt for a hotel bar, such as that
at Surf Lodge in Montauk,
which also offers live concerts to
amp up the energy, or one of the
areas popular nightclubs. Pink
Elephant and The White House
are local favourites. And dont
overlook gallery openings, the
annual ArtHamptons art fair,
fundraisers and charity benefits;
these are key to the Hamptons
social scene and are the easiest
way for visitors to clink glasses
with other movers and shakers.
Besides beachcombing, eating,
and glass-clinking, the Hamptons
ofer plenty to keep you entertained
for a weekend or longer. One of
the most popular pastimes on the
South Fork is exploring Montauk,
the most eastern point on Long
Island. A 30-minute drive from
East Hampton, the once-shabby
Montauk has only recently become
a magnet for travellers, thanks
to the renovation of a number of
hotels into freshened-up, boutique
lodgings. Here, you can taste the
salt in the air and see the fshermen
pulling in their hauls while trying
your own hand or legs at the
coastal life. Montauk has become
world-famous for its surfng; if you
want to test the waves for yourself,
The well-kept
vineyard at
Wolfer Estate, the
place to head at
sunset for a chilled
glass of wine.
Southampton Publick
House Brew
ESCAPE TOTHE HAMPTONS
62 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Aer Lingus ies from
Dublin to New York
twice daily, and from
Shannon to New
York, Mon, Wed, Fri
and Sun.
several shops rent gear
and ofer lessons for frst-
timers. End the day at any
of those renovated hotels
bars or restaurants; Surf
Lodge and Sole East are
popular spots for those
in-the-know.
Following Long
Islands winery trail
is another option for
daytime activities and is a
perfect way to ft in a visit
to many of the Hamptons
villages. A favourite stop
on the winery trail is the
Wolfer Estate Vineyard,
a 23-year-old European
style winery and vineyard
that sits on about 20
hectares of a 70-hectare
parcel. Visitors can
arrange tours in advance
or show up any time for a
tasting. If youre searching
for gifts to give friends
and family, there are
plenty of shops waiting to
help you fll your suitcase
... for a price. Cynthia
Rowleys boutique at
the newly opened Capri
Hotel in Southampton
sells colourful, casual
jewellery, sun hats and
board games that spark
memories of sun and
sand. Montauk Carriage
House, in Montauk, sells
handmade jewellery and
prints of local landmarks,
such as the Montauk
Point Lighthouse, one of
the oldest lighthouses in
the US.
You might even want
to pick up a souvenir for
yourself, proof that you
were here, summering with
New Yorks cool set.
GETTINGTHERE
If youre going to sit in trac and you are, if you travel by anything
other than helicopter or boat let someone else do the driving and
take the Hampton Jitney. From JFK, youll need to take a taxi from
the airport to Fresh Meadows, Queens (tell the driver to leave you
at the corner of 190th Street and the Eastbound Service Road of
the Long Island Expressway). The stop for the Jitney is in front of
the Fresh Meadows Cineplex Odeon Movie Theatre. There are
regular Hamptons departures; check the website for specic times
(approx $53 return for weekend ticket; hamptonjitney.com). The trip
can take from 2.5 4 hours, depending on trac. Another option is
to take Long Island Rail Roads Montauk Line train fromPenn Station in
Manhattan. Average trip time is three hours. (mta.info/lirr)
E
ast
H
am
p
to
n
Southampton
S
ag
H
arb
o
r
Bridgehampton
S
o
u
th
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o
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NEWYORK
Westhampton
Surfers delight
Montauk is
known for its
quality surng
and chilled out
nightlife.
Montauk
Wedding Co ordination
CUSTOMISED STYLING
Wedding Accessories
FOR DECORATION
Linen Rentals
YOUR THEME
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FOR ANY OCCASION
Your wedding, your partner...
www.gotchacovered.ie
Rockford House, Deansgrange Road, Blackrock, Co. Dublin, Ireland
Email: events@gotchacovered.ie Telephone: +353 1 284 1337
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Berlin
64 | april/may 2012
april/may 2012 | 65
If there is one thing Berlin has in abundance its attitude
whether its in street life, provocative art, hipster cafs
or ice-cool clubs. Writer John Butler explores the city.
Photographs by MatthewThompson.
of
The beauty
Berlin
april/may 2012 | 65
Berlin
66 | april/may 2012
comfortable, and children and
adults play ping-pong in well-
designed playgrounds. Despite the
calm, though, Berliners are wilfully
countercultural and youre
constantly being reminded that
collective order never trumps the
spirit of the individual. Stencil
Previous pages, left, cold war
relics at a stall near Checkpoint
Charlie and, right, the iconic
Brandenburg Gate. This page,
clockwise from top left, Berlin
face architecture student,
Kathleen Copietz; caf life
is raised to an art; a remnant
of the Berlin Wall; children
playing at the Tiergarten.
C
ities are
a feeling,
really. On the
surface, the
average Euro-
metropolis
ofers tiny
variations on
a theme: interchangeable fnancial
districts with refective glassy
towers, down-market artistic hubs,
a shopping Mecca in between, and
a concentration of hip bars and
restaurants along the way. But at
street level, each seemingly similar
place can be distinguished through
its distinct personality; the vibe
you get from people, and from the
elements (history, food, weather)
that shape their unique character.
And if every city is a feeling, no
city in Europe makes me feel better
than Berlin.
Te population nudges four
million yet, walking through the
central district of Mitte, one is
struck (as with Tokyo) by the order.
If there are cars, they purr past.
Restrained public advertising
displays an aesthetic sensibility
(imagine that!), seating in ambient-
lit, perfectly heated cafs is
grafti and provocative public art
abounds, and though many squats
have been boarded up, if you can
rent a room, you can open a shop,
restaurant or bar speaking of
which, they only close when you
leave them, which makes leaving
them desperately difcult.
Berlin in summer
The bleak, dark Berlin winter tumbles almost
headlong into a glorious summer that you can
bank on. By March, residents have begun to
emerge blinking into the sunlight, starved of
melatonin, sick to the back teeth of Glhwein,
and wielding bicycle pumps and deckchairs.
Because of the hibernation, summer in Berlin is
a raucous afair. The municipal pool complex in
Kreuzberg is teeming (U-Bahn Prinzenstrasse),
deckchairs adorn the canal and the banks of
the Spree, on the surface of which the public
Badeschif swimming pool (Eichenstrasse 4),
foats ingeniously. Further south, the airfeld
at closed, historic Tempelhof Airport is
over-run with kite fiers and barbecues, and
the Tiergarten is a maze of rollerblading and
cycling. Okay, so a lot of what we imagine
Berlin to be involves snowscapes and hearty-
sausage- based dinners. But come here in
June, and youll have little trouble forgetting all
about your long-johns and ordering sushi.
Blarney Castle & Gardens
Renowned for bestowing the gift of eloquence
See and feel Irelands heritage, built nearly six hundred years
ago by one of Irelands greatest chieftains...
Open all year round c 5 miles from Cork c Open Monday- Sunday 9-6 c www.blarneycastle.ie c info@blarneycastle.ie
2012 SerieS of eventS
The Centenary is here
For updates Call +353 21 4855623 or visit
www.titanic100.ie


viSit the titanicS laSt port of call
cobh, co. cork, ireland
9
th
- 15
th
APRIL
Weeklong programme of events remembering
the titanic and the people involved with her.
11
th
- 14
th
APRIL
An Irish Connection: Evening outdoor Gala
Concerts with International Artists, taking place
on the waterfront promenade in Cobh, telling the
story of emigration and the titanics connection
with Ireland. Suitable for all ages.
tickets 20 on www.tickets.ie (excl. booking fee)
9
th
JUNE
Ford Short Film Competition.
22
ND
- 24
th
JUNE
Live on Spike, Music Festival.
...and many more events throughout the year.
Call +353 21 4855623 or visit www.titanic100.ie
highlights:
Berlin
68 | april/may 2012
Te residents curate a city where
artists across all mediums (including
a huge number of Irish ex-pats) live
and work in great conditions, for
relatively little (tenant rights are
fercely protected and rents remain
low). People here are perplexed by
Irelands seduction by the global
boom. In a cofee shop in the
up-and-coming Neuklln, I overhear
an enamoured Irish man ask a
beautiful waitress if she likes his
brand new jacket. She calmly
appraises it and sets his latte down
before replying with a warm smile, It
is okay but I am not a consumerist so
I cannot say for sure if it is nice or
not. Tis is 2012 and I want to weep
or tip her massively. Its hard to know
which is less appropriate.
At the heart of this unique
city stands the TV Tower at
Alexanderplatz, in old East Berlin,
a constant point of orientation as
you explore the city. Te River
Spree runs through it west to
east, along whose banks lie
many museums and government
buildings. Given how safe, friendly
and transport-efcient this city is,
the best thing to do is hang the
bus tours, get on out there and
explore by bike, by foot, or using the
excellent public transport system.
A 72-hour Berlin Welcome Card
for unlimited transport on tram,
U-Bahn and S-Bahn costs 23.90.
Clockwise from
top, the landmark
TV Tower at
Alexanderplatz;
viewing seats at
Volkspark am
Weinbergsweg;
student Lydia
Johanna
Papendorf.
Budget For accommodation
options within all price ranges,
its hard to beat websites such
as airbnb.com, where you can
rent apartments of all shapes
and sizes, for any length of time
and in all kinds of interesting
neighbourhoods. On my
last trip, I stayed in a clean
warm studio in an old East
German apartment block on
Rochstrasse run by the people
at be-my-guest.com Marlene
was mine, which, though small,
was central and cost 72
per night. But if you simply
must have that over-priced
continental breakfast ...
Mid-range There was an
old woman who lived in a shoe
but that was a while ago now,
in fairness. These days the only
people living in shoes are an army
of hipsters who like to stay at the
Camper boutique hotel chain
(casacamper.com/berlin/). Rooms
are numbered from the outside
so, from street level, you can
point and squeal upon recognition
of your place. Complimentary
snacks and drinks are served at
the roof-top, hang-out spot, which
boasts very nice panoramic views.
You can rent bikes here, which is
a defnite perk. Twin rooms from
165 a night.
Splurge From most rooms at
the front of the Hotel adlon
(kempinski.com/de/berlinadlon/
Seiten/Welcome.aspx) you get a
superb view of the Brandenburg
Gate, but that wasnt enough to
prevent Michael Jackson from
dangling his baby Blanket
out the window for a superior
gawk. This place on Unter den
Linden 77 cannot be beaten
for location, nor for historical
importance between the wars,
they all stayed here: Chaplin,
Garbo, Louise Brooks. Double
rooms from 270 per night.
BEST STAY? Looking for a place to stay that gets you in with the locals? Be My Guest offers handpicked
accommodation with tailor-made itineraries that will have you rocking with the locals in Berlin, Amsterdamand
Edinburgh. Their inside info covers the latest hipster hangouts, cultural hot spots and chic eateries; be-my-guest.com.
Sleep at ...
Guided Factory Tour, Opulent Retail Store
featuring the largest collection of the worlds
most coveted name in crystal.
House of Waterford Crystal
The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland
Call: +353 (0)51 317 000
E: houseofwaterfordcrystal@wwrd.com
www.waterfordvisitorcentre.com
Berlin
70 | april/may 2012
april/may 2012 | 71
Opposite page, top, caf society at
St Oberholz Caf on Rosenthaler
Strasse and, below, left, sweet treat at
Caf Fleury. Left, classic designs on
Prenzlauer Berg. This page, Warhols
Mao at Hamburger Bahnhof, the
Museum for Contemporary Art.
Berlin
72 | april/may 2012
Above, left, in
pancake-fat Berlin,
the bicycle is king,
Spanish journalist
Jordi Garcia
Rodriguez takes
a moment. Right,
the Holocaust
Memorial, 19,000
sq metres of bleak,
cold concrete,
designed by
Peter Eisenman.
Budget Get at me on Twitter
if you disagree, but my pet
theory is that no European
country excels at all three
of our daily square
meals. In Germany,
breakfast is king.
Try nola in the park
(Veteranenstrasse
9, 0049 30 4404
0766, nearest U-Bahn
Rosenthaler Platz), for
the great traditional
platter of German
Frhstck, including the
shouldnt-work-but-it-does
KiBa, which is a fruit drink of
cherry and banana juice. I know.
For dinner, torstrasse seems to be
emerging as the restaurant mile in
Berlin a clutch of great places at
all price ranges can be found on or
around this Mitte thoroughfare. Get
a booking at any of the following:
noto (Torstrasse 173, 0049 30 2009
5387, noto-berlin.com), tartana
(Torstrasse 225, 0049 30 4472
7036), Alpenstck (Gartenstrasse 9,
0049 30 2175 1646, alpenstueck.de),
and themroc (Torstrasse 183, 0049
162 425 1121) Note many Berlin
restaurants (most) don t accept
credit cards.
Mid-rAnge Schwarzwaldstuben
Its not just the schnitzel at the
Schwarzwald (Black Forest)
themed restaurant, but a range of
local food including Geschmelzte
Maultaschen, Flammkuchen with
home-made horseradish, a terrifc
ravioli dish, great potato and salmon
soup, wonderful beers on tap, and
friendly staf. Oh, and the schnitzel
is superb. (Tucholskystrasse
48, 0049 30 2809 8084)
Splurge 3 Minutes sur Mer An
of-shoot of Bandol-Sur-Mer next
door on Torstrasse, both of which
serve excellent French cuisine to the
Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg gentry. This
place is too hip for a website, but the
telephone number is 0049 30 6730
2052. Great pork belly, an extensive
wine list, and no chance of a seat
without reservation. For that you
can blame Brad Pitt, who haunted
Bandol during the shooting of
Inglourious Basterds.
Berlins turbulent history
is constantly being processed
through works of art and its all
accessible. Pre-book a visit to
two rather special galleries
in Mitte. Art collector
Erika Hofmann, and
her late husband Rolf,
wanted to live and
work in proximity
to their art, and to
share it with the
public. Since 1997,
guided tours through
a converted sewing
factory have taken place
every Saturday, 11am-
4pm, and admission is 10.
Te Sammlung Hofmann
collection (Sophienstrasse 21,
0049 30 2849 9121, sammlung-
hofmann.de) includes works by
the Gruppe Zero, Bruce Nauman,
Jean-Michel Basquiat, Nan Goldin
and Andy Warhol, and, somewhat
wonderfully, the personal tour
concludes in Erikas private kitchen
with the ofer of a glass of tap water.
Also book in advance (online
only at sammlung-boros.de) for a
visit to Te Boros Bunker,
AdAytrip
Potsdam, a 45-minute train
ride away, is home to Frederick
the Greats summer palace, built in
1745, and known as Sanssouci (0049 331
969 4190). This baroque residence was
created as a place for the young monarch
to indulge his love of music, art and
philosophy, far from the pomp and
responsibility of militaristic life in
Berlin. Guided tour, 10.
eAt At ...
april/may 2012 | 73
Apart from a few gentle inclines, Berlin is
pancake-fat, with a proliferation of cycle
lanes and very little car trafc. Fat Tire Bike
Tours (0049 30 2404 7991, fattirebiketours.
com/berlin) is at the foot of the TV tower
and ofers good cycling tours, or you can
go it alone and hire a bike for 12 a day.
Cycle down Unter den Linden towards
the Brandenburg Gate, and along the
way youll pass the Berlin State Opera,
St Hedwigs Cathedral, the Zeughaus
(German Historical Museum), and the
Altes Palais. Do not miss the Neue Wache,
though, and the memorial to the victims
of fascism and militarism. The interior
of this Doric column-fronted building is
intentionally empty and, beneath a round
hole in the ceiling, Kthe Kollwitzs powerful
sculpture depicts a mother cradling a dead
child. In summer the sun can bathe it in
a circle of light, but in winter the fgure
is dusted with fakes, hunched within a
widening puddle of freezing snow-water.
After passing the Brandenburg Gate,
cycle through the Tiergarten, stopping frst
at The Berlin Victory Column, decorated
with gold-painted cannons taken from
vanquished foes of the Prussian Empire and
immortalised by Wim Wenders in Wings of
Desire. It pre-dates the Nazi regime, but was
appropriated by Hitler and moved to form
the centre of his proposed Germania.
Continuing through the Tiergarten youll
arrive at Berlin Zoo (zoo-berlin.de), home
of the late Knut the Polar Bear. Nearby lies
Schleusenkrug, a terrifc canal-side place
for food. Sit outside regardless of weather,
as most places provide thick, coarse hair
blankets and, if you miss this place, nearby
lies Caf amNeuen See, another great caf
with a good menu.
After the pit-stop, continue back east
and close to Potsdamer Platz, theres a
clutch of interesting sights, all within a mile
of each other. Admission to the Mies van
der Rohe-designed Neue Nationalgalerie
(neue-nationalgalerie.de) ranges from 8
to 14, depending on what areas you want
to visit. The permanent collection includes
works by Paul Klee, Francis Bacon and
Picasso. Nearby are Checkpoint Charlie,
the Jewish Museum (Lindenstrasse 9-14,
jmberlin.de), and the Topography of Terror
(Niederkirchnerstrasse 8, topographie.de)
of Stresemannstrasse (where the Gestapo,
SS and Reich security ofces were located,
and where the longest untouched stretch
of the old wall remains). Also nearby is
the Martin-Gropius-Bau (Niederkirchner
Strasse 7) where, from mid-March, the
Getty collection of post war Los Angeles
art will be on view.
Travel back north towards the
Brandenburg Gate (a 25-minute cycle at
most) and, on your right, you will encounter
the Peter Eisenman-designed, 19,000
sq metres Holocaust Memorial. Its not
without its critics, but walking amidst the
undulating slabs of bleak, cold concrete
is a deeply unsettling experience; no
relief along their blank surfaces, the
edges equally sharp, and the light source
narrowing as you descend. Obliquely
and ingeniously, it calls to mind the
unfathomable horror of the Holocaust.
Theres such a vast array of wildly
contrasting stimuli in this city and yet it
seems to present a harmonious whole.
Cities are a feeling, and Im pretty sure its
not just penniless writers who are so glad
Berlin never caught afuenza like some
other European destinations (ahem). The
mystery as always on the fight back is, why
dont I live there?
A dAy on A bike
Mother and dead
Child by kthe kollwitz
at neue Wache.
Berlin
74 | april/may 2012
Aer lingus fies daily from
Dublin to Berlin.
The insiders Guide
Irishman Brian Crosby is a flm composer and musician, formerly of Bell X1, who has lived in Berlin for the past two years.
Artwork at
Checkpoint
Charlie.
which, as the name suggests,
is situated in a converted bunker
in Mitte. Tis excellent collection
of contemporary art is curated by
Karen and Christian Boros (who,
fttingly, holds a PhD thesis in Bond
villains). As with Berlin galleries,
the story of the space is at least as
interesting as the work contained
within. Initially built as a shelter
for civilians in World War Two, the
Boros Bunker has since been used
as prison, fetish club, nightclub and
now holds work by contemporary
artists including Olafur Eliasson.
As the non-consumerist waitress
would proudly attest, shops in
Berlin are closed on Sunday, and
to the north of Mitte, Prenzlauer
Berg is a great neighbourhood
to while away a lazy Sunday
afternoon. It is home to American
ex-pats piloting baby strollers to
brunch. If the farmers market
in the beautiful cobbled streets
around Kollwitzplatz represents
End Times of gentrifcation to old
school Berliners, its also a rather
pleasant afternoon out. Te brunch
bufet at nearby Russian restaurant
Pasternak (Knaackstrasse 22/24,
0049 30 441 3399, restaurant-
pasternak.de) is a must if you can
get a table; afterwards, browse
through antiques and ephemera at
the fea market in Arkonaplatz.
South of the Spree, working
artists, students and hipsters share
the neighbourhood of Kreuzberg
with Turkish families. By night,
this neighbourhood has a lot
to ofer in the way of bars and
terrifc food. After drinks at the
Ankerklause right on the canal
(Kottbusser Damm 104), or at
the wonderful Bei Schlawinchen
(Schnleinstrasse 34), its worth
making a pilgrimage to the
birthplace of the doner kebab at
Hasir (U-Bahn stop Kotbusser Tor),
or to an un-remarkable rotisserie
chicken shack called Hhnerhaus,
right at the entrance to Grlitzer
Park, for the best chicken ever
rotisseried. Judging by the ever-
present feet of lingering squad cars
outside, Berlins fnest concur.
During the day, during a stroll
through Grlitzer Park in Kreuzberg,
one might hear the distant thud of
techno drift across the Spree from
nearby Friedrichshain. Tere, a
six-storey industrial warehouse called
Berghain (Am Wriezener Bahnhof,
0049 30 2936 0210, berghain.
de) lays decent claim to being the
worlds greatest techno club. If youre
not inside dancing and instead are
ambling through Grlitzer Park,
continue on to Treptower Park,
where a series of enormous friezes
commemorates the 80,000 Russians
killed in the battle of Berlin which
ended in 1945. Te main statue
depicts a Soviet soldier holding a
child and stamping on a swastika.
Art, history, banging tunes and
sylvan meadows nowhere better
embodies the confict within Berlins
narrative.
John Butlers novel, The Tenderloin, will be
published in paperback by Picador in May,
7.99. John tweets at @oneofmanyjbs
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These are a few of my favourite eating
spots in and round Kreuzberg, where
I have my studio. Kreuzberg is a super
area to work in, full of a great cross-
section of people and things going on.
Never a dull moment! CAlle ikos
(Kpenicker Strasse 159, 0049 30 2180
7269; ikos-imkreuzbergerosten.de)
This place doesnt look much from the
outside but dont let that put you of.
Previously an old-school Berlin kneipe
bar serving really spectacular French
food prepared with love and attention
a very reasonably priced top shelf.
Chez MiChel (Adalbert Strasse 83, 0049 30 2084 5507;
chezmichel-berlin.de) This casual French bistro is always packed to
the gills. And rightly so; you cant do better than their steak frites
for 10 and be sure to try one of their outstanding desserts.
MAnuelATApAs (FriedelStrasse 34; manuelatapas.com) With its
cosy kitsch interior and freshly prepared Spanish food, this place is a
great all rounder. With the arrival of our frst son before Christmas,
I have a newfound appreciation for just how accommodating Berlin
restaurants are for young ones, this place being right up the top of
the list with their super kids room out the
back. Our Spanish friend verifes this is
the real deal!
MusAshi sushi (Kottbusser Damm
102) This tiny hole-in-the-wall joint
serves some of the best sushi in town.
Enough said.
MArkThAlle (Eisenbahnstrasse
42/43, Pcklerstrasse 34, 00 49 30
617 5502; weltrestaurant-markthalle.
de) Great schnitzel and apple strudel in
a bright and airy wood paneled room,
lovely for a wintery Sunday lunch.
As for music, the Berliner philhArMoniker (Herbert-von-
Karajan-Strasse 1, 0049 30 2548 8999; Berliner-philharmoniker.de)
is well worth a visit for its architecture alone. If you cant manage
to get a ticket for an evening performance, then check out the free
lunchtime gigs they host every Tuesday in the foyer.
sChokolAden (Ackerstrasse 169/170, 0049 30 282 6527;
schokoladen-mitte.de) is a pretty happening down and dirty music
club. Also they have a strict curfew which means the gigs start on
time (a rarity in Berlin!).
briancrosby.com

CORK CITY
BALLET
CCB
2012 marks the Centenary of
one of the most iconic figures in
irish ballet, dr. Joan denise moriarty.
To celebrate this, Cork City Ballet presents a
new production of Tchaikovskys masterpiece,
The Sleeping Beauty.
Cork City Ballet isnt just a
company. Its a collaboration of
dedicated, passionate people who
come together to make sure that
our commitment to the best in
dance is upheld and available for all
to enjoy. Our aim is to stay true to our
unique vision of live performance.
For more information on how you can
help support the work of
Cork City Ballet, please contact
Colette mcnamee at 086 3697207, or
via email at col.mcnamee@gmail.com
In Business
and in Dance,
the Right Partner
is Everything
Alan Foley, Artistic Director
We need your help To make This happen
Cork City Ballet one of Irelands premier ballet
companies, sustains a vital part of the countrys cultural
heritage. The company embraces the grand traditions of
dance, from full-length story ballets to abstract modern
pieces maintaining an unwavering commitment to artistry
and excellence in dance.
The result of a partnership with
Cork City Ballet is a heightened
level of visibility in front of a
highly discerning market.
WE ARE LOOKING FOR A SPONSOR
FOR THIS PRODUCTION.
IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO PLAY YOUR
PART IN THE SLEEPING BEAUTY
CONTACT US TO SEE IF WERE THE
PERFECT PARTNER FOR YOU!
Alan Foley,
Artistic Director
CORK CITY BALLET
CCARA MAG ADVERT_Layout 1 08/03/2012 16:10 Page 1
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APRIL/MAY 2012 | 77
A pilgrimage site for lovers the world over, Verona is a
destination that satises all the senses. Irishman and
local Mark Weston shares his must sees.
VERONA
An Insiders Guide to
VIA MAZZINI This is the main shopping area,
heaving with top class Italian merchandise, along
with Via Cappello, where you will nd JULIET'S
HOUSE, a pilgrimage site for lovers the world
over. Remember to rub the right breast on the
bronze statue to have good luck in love!
PIAZZA BR Sitting outside one
of the bars, you can enjoy a drink
and take in the Roman ARENA and
the public gardens as the locals go
about their business. Make sure to
get a ticket for the Arena during
the world-famous summer opera
season. Hire a cushion for comfort
and spend a magical, balmy evening
sitting on the steps in the hushed
silence as the orchestra and singers
weave their spell.
HOTEL TORCOLO is a family-run hotel in the
historic centre of Verona, a stone's throw from
the Arena and all the main sights. The owners
are helpful and friendly and will book restaurants
as well as tickets for the opera and Lake Garda.
(Rooms from 70pps; hoteltorcolo.it)
MORE ABOUT MARK
Mark Weston, originally from Dublin, lives with his
wife Simonetta, and a dog called Charlie, in Verona
where they are always discovering new restaurants,
bars, cafes and shops in which to spend their free
time. When he isn t enjoying all that the Italian
lifestyle and weather has to offer, he is running
The English Camp study holidays in Italy and
teaching in primary and secondary schools. He also
organises programmes in Ireland for students and
adults (theenglishcamp.com).
The ANTICABOTTEGADEL VINO
wine bar and restaurant, in Via Scudo di
Francia, a haunt of writers and poets, was
voted one of the top ten in Italy. Order the
risotto with Amarone you wont regret it!
Get la mattonella (wafer with vanilla,
chocolate and amaretto) or any of the
delicious ice-cream specialities from the
much-loved GELATERIASAVOIA under the
arches of Via Roma. Theres a vast selection,
in either cone or cup.
Take a day trip to the beaches of nearby LAKE GARDA. If
you have children and can cope with the queues, don't miss the
theme park GARDALAND for a fun day out. (gardaland.it)
INSIDERS GUIDE
78 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Aer Lingus ies from Dublin to
Verona on Wed and Sat.
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MAKEADATE The 90th Verona Opera Festival kicks off on June 22 and includes
open-air performances of DonGiovanni, Carmen and, of course, the story of star-
crossed lovers and Verona city natives, Romeo and Juliette; runs to September 2, arena.it
Go across the Ponte Pietra and pass the
Roman theatre, where the Shakespearian
festival is held in summer. Head 15 minutes up
the hill for the breathtaking view of the city
from RE TEODORICO.
The VERONA HORSE FAIR (November 6-9)
has 3,000 horses, representing more than 60
breeds, and hundreds of events, exhibitions
and competitions. A must for all horse lovers.
(eracavalli.it)
VINITALY, at the end of March each
year, is the biggest international wine
and spirits exhibition in the world and
an opportunity to taste the regions
most famous wines, such as Valpolicella,
Amarone and Recioto. (vinitaly.com)
RISTORANTE PIZZERIASANMATTEOis
in a deconsecrated church in Vicolo San Matteo
and has a lovely atmosphere, helpful and friendly
sta, as well as a vast selection of pasta, sh and
meat dishes and pizzas, of course!
Drop in to CAFF TUBINO, in Corso
Portoni Borsari, where they say you get
the best coee in Verona, and order one
of their special coees, il Maronito or il
Marocchino Bianco, or choose from 120
dierent types of tea. Its really small so
you may not manage to sit down.
RISTORANTE GREPPIA
in Vicolo Samaritana, a cosy
restaurant nestled in one of the
back streets in the centre of
Verona, is renowned for its home-
made pasta and a great place to go
with a group of friends.
PIAZZA DELLE ERBE is the most
popular and picturesque square in
Verona. Enjoy the evening atmosphere
while sipping an aperitivo with the
locals and dont forget to climb to the
top of the TORRE DEI LAMBERTI for
the spectacular view.
For more info or to make a booking
contact 086-6629575
A touch of GOLD
in Temple Bar
A touch of GOLD
in Temple Bar
A touch of GOLD
in Temple Bar
Buskers Bar - Temple Bar, 1317 Fleet St, Dublin 2 - www.BuskersBar.com
For more info or to make a booking
contact 086-6629575 Buskers Bar - Temple Bar, 1317 Fleet St, Dublin 2 - www.BuskersBar.com
Alchemy Club & Venue
Temple Bar, 13-17 Fleet Street, Dublin 2
086 6629575
www.alchemyclub.ie
Scan here and fill
out our booking form,
quoting Cara Magazine
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CARIBBEAN PANAMA CANAL ALASKA NEW ENGLAND MEXICAN RIVIERA HAWAII


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June 8-10, 2012
Only 500 for Certication!
Jim West has worked as a
professional cruise director
for over ten years, onboard
the cruise ships of Princess
Cruises, Celebrity Cruises and
Orient Lines. He has sailed on
over 1456 cruises in his career,
is the author of four cruise/
travel books, was the cruise
expert on the Travel Channel
television show, Cruise Ships
FAQ, and has been planning
cruises for the past 20 years.
Jim now lives in the West of
Ireland near Galway.
www.CruiseAmerica.ie
JIM WEST
Cruise Expert
CRUISE AMERICA!
Where the Irish go to plan their American Cruise!

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april/may 2012 | 81
All Sewn Up
What happens when you combine one of the greatest countries known for crafs
with an international community of quilters? Well, if things go as planned, it will
be the frst annual International Quilt Festival of Ireland.
ADVERTORIAL PROMOTION
T
his summer, from June 8-10,
the NUI Galway campus will
be turned into a specially
laid-out Quilters Village,
with redesigned buildings,
classrooms and restaurants ofering such
venues as Fat Quarters Chocolate Shop,
the Wicked Timble Pub, the Town Hall,
the Round Robin Restaurant, a Craf
Centre, Celtic Tea Room and a high-end
restaurant called Stash.
According to Managing Director, Jim
West, this is the frst time anything like
this has ever been created on a grand scale.
As you walk around the village, visitors
will run into our very charming mayor,
hear the town crier in our Quilters Square
announcing activities and events taking
place throughout the day, and they will
even see Molly Malone as she walks around
pushing her cart and selling fabric fat
quarters, said West.
And no quilt festival would be
complete without quilts. Tere will be 14
uniquely designed quilt exhibits ofering
hundreds of beautifully-designed quilts
from all over the world. Each exhibit is
designed to activate all the senses, so
each is unusual and unique in its layout.
Along with the quilts, there are also
internationally-known celebrity teachers
who will be teaching hands-on quilt
classes to visiting quilters.
Tis festival is ofering two very
special elements that the international
quilting community has never seen
before. Te frst is a complete hands-
on crafs programme, which includes
traditional Irish crafs, from lace-making
and painting to felt-making and pottery.
Tere is even an overnight trip to the
Aran Islands for a special knitting
workshop! Te second special feature is
a non-quilters activity programme for
those who are not interested in quilting.
Tese activities include everything
from fshing and golfng, to cycling and
pub-crawls.
And no visit to Galway and the West of
Ireland would be complete without ofering
some of the most incredible sightseeing and
day trips throughout the region. Kylemore
Abbey and Gardens, the Clifs of Moher,
a boat ride on Lough Corrib and Ashford
Castle, Brigits Garden, the Burren and
Connemara, are all special places visitors
wont want to miss.
Te opening ceremony takes place on
Tursday evening, June 7 at the Galway
Radisson Blu Hotel, where over 500
people will attend the Grand Reception.
With an anticipated 5,000 quilters from
all over the world expected to attend, the
frst annual International Quilt Festival of
Ireland puts Ireland in the spotlight and
presents sew many opportunities.
Te International Quilt Festival of Ireland runs from June 810 at NUI Galway.
For more information, visit the website www.IQFOI.com
BEING THERE
82 | APRIL/MAY 2012
With designer bars, topnotch restaurants and a
city archipelago to explore on foot or by bike,
Stockholm is ideal for a weekend break.
Philip OConnor reports.
Stockholm
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uch to the chagrin of some of its Nordic neighbours,
Stockholm lays claim to being the capital of Scandinavia. But
it is a claim that has some basis in fact. Built on 14 islands at
the mouth of Lake Mlaren, it is a city surrounded by water;
each island makes up its own little district, with its own
distinct character. So its the perfect place for the weekender to explore.
SLEEP AT .
A short walk from the
airport terminal, the Jumbo
Hotel/Hostel is one of the
coolest places in the world to
stay. The owners have
converted an old Boeing 747
into 27 rooms, with the cockpit
suite oering a panoramic view
of the airport. With beds from
just 50 per person per night,
its well within most budgets.
(0046 859 360 400,
jumbostay.se)
If you prefer boats to planes,
dont worry the crafty
Swedish designers have that
covered too. The Red Boat in
the city centre oers excellent
budget accommodation in
beautiful surroundings. For
those willing to splash out, the
luxurious Captains Suite can
be booked from 160 per
night. (Sdermlarstrand
Kajplats 10, 0046 8644 4385,
theredboat.com)
Situated on the winding
street of Vsterlngatan in the
heart of the Old Town, The
Lord Nelson claims to be
Swedens narrowest hotel. This
homely establishment is a
stones throw from the Royal
Palace and within walking
distance of many of the major
tourist attractions. Rooms
start at 101 (0046 850 640
120, thecollectorshotels.se)
If you want to be in the
heart of it, try the Scandic
Hotel Anglais in Stureplan, at
the centre of Stockholms
nightlife and upmarket shopping
district. It is a perfect location for
those who want to experience the
better drinking and dining spots in
Stockholm. Rooms from 180.
(Humlegrdsgatan 23, 0046 851 734
000, scandichotels.com)
Above left, berths aboard the
Jumbo Hostel, an old Boeing
747, and above right, stay at the
heart of things at the Scandic
Hotel Anglais. Right, meat-
lovers paradise, Restaurant AG.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 83
DONT MISS ...
The stunning Vasa Museum, on the
island of Djurgrden, is Scandinavias
most-visited, as tourists ock to see
the salvaged wreck of a 17th-century
ship that sank on its maiden voyage in
1628, weighed down by 64 cannons
and some bad engineering decisions.
(Galrvarvsvgen 14, 0046 851 954
800, vasamuseet.se)
A stones throw away is Skansen,
Stockholms only zoo. Visitors can
also learn about the living conditions
in rural Sweden two centuries ago
from personnel in traditional dress,
and there are special exhibitions
detailing the lives of the Sami people
in the harsh northern climate. (0046
8442 8000, skansen.se)
Biblioteksgatan is
paradise for the
fashionista, where
some of the
biggest names in
fashion rub shoulders
with local labels of high renown.
Those looking for something a little
less mainstream would be well advised
to head over to the SoFo district on
Sder, where small, backstreet
retailers stock some of the most
cutting-edge clothes around.
For great swedish design and
mementos head to Design House
Stockholm(Smlandsgatan 16,
designhousestockholm.com)
Kulturhuset, beside Sergels Torg,
is Stockholms mecca for the
arts and a perfect plan B for
a rainy day. With thousands
of square metres of
exhibition and performance
space, there is something
for all artistic tastes and a
caf with panoramic views of the
city occupies the top oor. (0046 850
831 508, en.kulturhusetstockholm.se)
A short boat trip from the city,
the island of Stora Fjderholmen
is home to cafs, restaurants,
craftspeople and museums
detailing archipelago life. There is
also the storehouse for Mackmyra,
one of Swedens only domestic
whiskys. (fjaderholmarna.se)
EAT AND DRINK AT ...
Restaurang AGis a meat-lovers
paradise as you enter the dining
room youre met by a glass-fronted
refrigerator where sides of the nest
beef from Sweden, Scotland and the
US are hung to age. Head chef and
co-owner Johan Jureskog claims to
have the best steaks in Sweden, and
many Stockholmers seem to agree.
(Kronobergsgatan 37, 0046 841 068
100, restaurangag.se)
Cantineros is a brand-new bar in
the Old Town (Gamla Stan). Inspired
by Cuban rum culture, it features an
extensively stocked rum bar, from
which the skilled bartenders would
be more than happy to knock you
up a taste of Latin America.
(Kornhamnstorg 53, cantineros.se)
Many would argue that pub culture
in Sweden didnt really exist until The
Dubliner opened its doors back in
1992. With live music, wholesome
food, friendly sta and all the sport
you can possibly watch, it remains a
rm favourite. (Hollndargatan 1,
0046 8679 7707, dubliner.se/
stockholm/pub)
Take a trip to Ekstedts restaurant
and you could be forgiven for thinking
that Sweden didnt have a smoking ban
Aer Lingus ies fromDublin to
Stockholm, four times a week.
Far left, island life
Stockholm is surrounded by
water and, left, at Skansen,
a zoo and open-air museum,
you can watch old crafts
still being made and, below
left, Spin Mug Collection
by Marie-Louise Hellgren
Swedish design is worth
hunting down.
at all. But the smoke in this fabled new
eatery isnt from tobacco; instead, it
comes from a re pit in the kitchen
over which much of the menu is
prepared. Drawing on cooking
methods from the Basque country and
inspired by ideas from all over the
world, owner Niklas Ekstedts ambition
is to pass on his knowledge of what he
calls the last of the handcrafts. (0046
8611 1210, niklasekstedt.se)
For a quick bite to eat on the go,
get down to the bustling
Htorgshallen, in the city centre.
Downstairs youll nd a selection of
shops and restaurants oering
everything from kebabs to Swedish
dishes such as meatballs with
lingonberry jam and mashed potatoes.
The island of Sder is a bohemian
paradise of small shops, bars and
cafs. Kvarnen is a traditional beer
hall and a great place to start or
nish your nights on the town.
(Tjrhovsgatan 4, 0046 8643 0380,
kvarnen.com)
For more informaton visit
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Vogue
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 85
W
hen I was asked to write a text
that would commemorate
the 75th anniversary of Aer
Linguss frst fight, I began to
think about Ireland in May 1936, the month
in which that inaugural journey took place.
The country of my grandparents youth was
a poor one, only recently founded, facing
immense challenges, yet its cultural traditions
had survived and there was optimism that
this small new democracy might one day be a
place of freedoms. In our old literature, in our
ballads and songs, in our poetry and legends,
the imagery of fight appeared with striking
frequency; a touching testament to the hopes
of an island people who, as Yeats said, have
gone about the world like wind.
It struck me as remarkable that a nation
which not very long previously had been
engaged in violent confict and Civil War
had progressed so quickly to establishing
an airline. It also seemed to me that the
story of Aer Lingus closely tracked the
story of independent Ireland, sometimes
in counterpoint, sometimes in parallel. We
have long been a migrant people we still
are, today and every fight is an anthology,
a collection of stories, some happy, some
poignant, all our own. So, rather than write
a fact-laden article studded with statistics
and the names of aircraft, I asked if I could
approach the commemorative piece as a
series of verse-lyrics that might attempt
to record the unique and indefnable
aura that Irish people feel Aer Lingus
has. Airspace was the result. I wrote it
between Christmas 2010 and January of
2011, a month in which severe snow cut us
of from the world for a while. In a small way,
that separation reminded me of the longing
we feel for other lands, other dreams, of the
connections that Aer Lingus has existed to
serve. I hope you enjoy reading the piece.
Joseph OConnor
Airspace
The very frst Aer Lingus fight took place back in 1936, just over 75 years ago.
To celebrate, author Joseph OConnor was asked to write a commemorative
piece. Here, we publish the fnal chapter, along with their authors introduction.
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Joseph oconnor
86 | APRIL/MAY 2012
And a troop of students laughing,
And the couple stroke the curls
Of the gurgling, pink baby,
As the front tyres raise,
Wheelying through the darkness
Like a reared up-stallion of propulsion.
Poised at the point
Where the earth rhymes with hope,
Navigation lights blink
And you leave the earth of Ireland
Tat has seen so much,
Tat knows so much,
Tat has forgotten so much out of pity.
Below you, the country is sleepy in darkness,
Bracelets of motorways,
Trucks appear tiny,
Te city a constellation of unexplored stars,
Every bedsit and mansion a novel in light,
As you, to the earthbound, are now become a
story,
Overture to the blackness of the Irish Sea,
As you climb the impossible night.
I was there when you were lonely.
When you needed to fy.
When you needed to laugh
When you needed to cry.
When you needed to work.
When you just felt wild.
I few your parents;
I will fy your child.
Tere since your childhood.
Tonight, you are going to fy.
Te squat doors are closed.
You taxi from the terminal
Heavily through the rain,
Like a mountain on wheels
In an ancestors dream
Of the coming days of Ireland
When wonders and marvels will be possible.
Fluorescent lights of Departures
Bleeding through the raindrops
As the runway is reached.
And you pause.
A man across the aisle
Makes the sign of the cross.
A couple hold hands,
A baby is gurgling.
Te old nun beside you
Closes eyes like the Buddha.
A moment of celestial stillness.
And the rumble begins,
In the base of your spine,
Elemental,
Like weather
On the Clifs of Moher in wintertime,
Like Ronnie Drews voice
Tundering of Kilburn,
Or a bodhrn whopped by a goddess.
How does it happen?
Can such things be possible?
Te mountain starts to move,
Heavily, ponderous,
A giantess advancing
Trough battlements of rainfall,
And the alleluia of roaring engines.
And the luggage bins rattling,
Nearly time to go.
Te fnal call made.
Rain on the windows of Departures
tonight.
Te last fight to Heathrow,
Passengers weary,
Queuing with cofee-cups,
Holdalls and suit-bags.
Murmuring quiet into mobiles.
Te quickly grabbed magazines.
Airside was closing.
Paperbacks bought
But not really wanted.
Time-passers. Flight-friends. Skylines.
iPods clamped to exhausted ears,
And a symphony of cellophane sandwiches.
Outside on the tarmac,
Te airbus awaits,
Shamrock on its tailfn,
Saints name on its cockpit.
Small reassurances,
Familiarity of symbols.
Welcome as the nod of a trusted old friend
To whom there is no need to speak.
She knows you are weary.
Feel at home, she smiles gently.
Tar isteach. Sit down.
Close your belt like a good man.
Ive a place for you here.
Only waiting for clearance.
Dont feel that you have to explain.
We have travelled together
Down all the long days
So that you are me,
And I you, she says.
And like spouses or siblings,
We sometimes fght,
And nobodys perfect
But were fying tonight.
We pack our stories, our baggage,
Into overhead containers.
(We all have baggage. Even an airline has
baggage.
But there is no need to carry it now.)
Te long day done.
Te Irish shadows lengthening.
Tomorrow, there will be time for all the
analyses.
Te roads not taken,
Te plans deferred.
Tonight, you are in the arms of someone
you know,
A long-time companion,
VIII Night fight to London 27 May, 2011
Tonight, you are in the arms
of someone you know,
A long-time companion,
There since your childhood.
Tonight, you are going to fy.
Dunne and Crescenzi has changed
the way the Irish eat
Tom Doorley, THE IRISH TIMES.
They brought the real Italian food to Dublin
FOOD & WINE
Visiting Dublin? Come dine in one of Irelands denitive
Italian experiences, brought to you by
Stefano Crescenzi, David Izzo & Eileen Dunne
A cosy Italian restuarant &
extensive wine bar.
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+353 (1) 6759892
www.baritalia.ie
+353 (1) 8741000
Traditional Italian
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Cara_1/4Page.indd 1 12/03/2012 17:11
Un peu de France sur Leeson Street Bridge!
Locat ed i n t he hear t of cul t ural
Dubl i n, Brasser i e l e Pont combi nes
comf or t, styl e and mouth water i ng
cui si ne wi th a vi brant atmosphere
and war m and attentive ser vi ce.
Brasserie Le Pont, 25 Fitzwilliam Place, Dublin 2
Tel: 01 6694600 | Email: info@brasserielepont.ie
Web: www.brasserielepont.ie
A Beautiful
French Brasserie
with an Irish
welcome!
OFFERING
n wine bar
n outdoor heated terrace
n stunning Georgian private dining
rooms (Capacity 70 people)
n live jazz music
n ideal venue for intimate dinners,
corporate entertainment, product
launches, weddings or anniversaries
To Let
A rare opportunity to acquire one of the nest Georgian ofce buildings
in the heart of the Dublins Business District.
Presented in superb condition.
The property extends to approx 390 sq.m (4,200sq.ft) with parking.
Ideally suited as an Embassy/Consulate/Corporate HQ or Private Residence.
Contact: James Mulhall
Phone: + 353 1 6340300
E-mail: jm@murphymulhall.com www.murphymulhall.com
No.
120
St. Stephens
Green, Dublin 2.
IrE rr LA LL nDS PrE rr mIum
Pro rr vIDEr oF SErv rr IcED
oFFIcE SPA PP cE AnD
conFErE rr ncE FA FF cILITIES
Prestigious Locations in
Dublin and Belfa ff st
Business address, call answerrinng
Flexible terms, no onerous leeaasees
Adj dd ustable oce lay aa outs witth
expansion capacity fr ff om
1 - 50+ persons
Extensive range of meeting rroommms,
onsite restaurants and busineess
support services
Irish owned and fa ff mily managged
oe ring unrivalled client servicce
DUBLIN
Fitzw zz illiam Hall, Fittzw zz illlliaamm Place, Dublin 2
33 Fitzw zz illiam Squaaree,, Dublin 2
+353 1 6669 4470000
BELFAST
Arthur House, Arthur Streett,, Belffaa ffff st BTT11 4GB
+44 (0)28 9044 771100
www.glandore.ie
For your guide to our new and exciting
On Demand movies and television
programmes, including Homeland
(pictured), turn to page 96.
InFlight
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 89
For your comfort and safety
Please pay attention while the
cabin crew demonstrate the
use of the safety equipment
before take-o. Also, make
sure to read the safety
instruction card, which is in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Seat belts must be fastened
during take-o and landing,
and whenever the Fasten
Seat Belts sign is switched on.
We recommend that you keep
your seat belt loosely fastened
throughout the ight.
Your seat must be in the
upright position during take-
o and landing, but can be
reclined by pressing the large
button in the armrest. Other
buttons (in the armrest or
above your head, depending
on the aircraft) may be used
to operate your reading light
and air vent, or to call a cabin
attendant.
Portableelectronic equipment
Portable electronic equipment may interfere with aircraft equipment, creating a
potentially hazardous situation. With safety as our priority, we ask you to pay particular
attention to the following:
Mobile phones and all other personal electronic equipment must be switched o and stowed safely
as soon as the aircraft doors are closed. It is not permissible to use any electronic device to transmit or
receive data during the ight, however devices equipped with ight mode, or the equivalent,
may be used. Flight mode should be selected before the device is switched o.

DEVICESPERMITTED
ATANYTIME: Devices
powered by micro battery cells
and/or by solar cells; hearing
aids (including digital devices);
pagers (receivers only); heart
pacemakers.

DEVICESPERMITTED
INFLIGHTBUTNOT
DURINGTAXI/TAKE-OFF/
INITIALCLIMB/APPROACH
LANDING: Laptops with CD
ROMor DVDdrive, palmtop
organisers, handheld calculators
without printers, portable
audio equipment (eg Walkman,
CD-player, Mini-disk player,
iPod and MP3-player). For the
comfort of other passengers,
audio devices should be used
with a headset. Computer games
(eg Gameboy, Nintendo DS).
Video cameras/recorders, digital
cameras, GPS handheld receivers,
electric shavers, electronic toys.
Bluetooth devices with mobile
phones in Flight mode, devices
with Blackberry technology
with Flight/Flight Safe mode
selected, laptops, PDAs with
built-in Wi-Fi with Wireless O
setting selected.

DEVICES PROHIBITED
AT ALL TIMES: Devices
transmitting radio frequency
intentionally such as walkie-
talkies, remote controlled toys;
wireless computer equipment (eg
mouse, keyboard); PCprinters,
DVD/CDwriters and Mini-disk
Recorders in the recording
mode; digital camcorders when
using CDwrite facility; portable
stereo sets; pocket radios (AM/
FM); TV receivers; telemetric
equipment; peripheral devices
for handheld computer games
(eg supplementary power packs
connected by cable); wireless
LAN(WLAN). Laptops with
built-in WLAN(eg Centrino) may
be used during ight, provided
the WLANoption is turned o
and subject to the restrictions
associated with the use of
laptops detailed above.
Ar mhaithe de do chompord agus le
do shbhilteacht ...
... iarraimid ort aird mhaith a
thabhairt, ar an bhfoireann
cbin ag ts na heililte
agus iad ag taispeint
conas an fearas slndla a
sid. Iarraimid ort an crta
threoraca slndla at i bpca
an tsuochin os do chomhair a
lamh chomh maith.
Caithfear criosanna sbhla
bheith ceangailte le linn ir
agus tuirlingthe agus ag aon
am a bhonn an comhartha
Fasten Seat Belts ar iasadh.
Molaimid duit an crios sbhla
bheith leathcheangailte agat i
rith an turais.
Le linn ir agus tuirlingthe, n
mr do shuochan bheith sa
suomh ingearach. Ag am ar
bith eile, is fidir an suochn
a chur siar ach br ar an
gcnaipe mr at ar an taca
uillinne. T cnaip eile ann
(ar an taca uillinne n os do
chionn, ag brath ar an eitlen)
chun sid a bhaint as an
solas litheoireachta n as an
ngaothaire, n chun glaoch ar
bhall den fhoireann cbin.
Aboard Welcome
90 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Fearas iniompartha leictreonach
Is fidir lefearas iniomparthaleictreonachcur isteachar threalamhaneitlein, rudadfhadfadhbheith
contirteach. Agus sbhilteacht mar phromhchramagAer Lingus, iarraimidort airdsabhreis athabhairt ar an
mr seoaleanas:
Caithfear gach guthn pca agus gach fearas pearsanta leictreonach a mhchadh agus a chur i dtaisce a
luaithe agus a dhntar doirse an eitlein. N ceadmhach sid a bhaint as uirlis leictreonach ar bith chun sonra
a tharchur n a ghlacadh i rith na heitilte. Is ceadmhach, fach, uirlis le cumas md eitilte, n a chomhionann
sin, a sid. Caithfear an lipad modh eitilte a roghn sula mchtar an uirlis.

GLASANNA A BHFUIL
CEADAITHE I GCNA:
Glasanna a bhaineann sid as
micreaceallair agus/n fotaichill;
cluaisn chnta (glasanna
digiteach san ireamh); glaoir
(gleacadin amhin); sadair.

GLASANNAAT
CEADAITHEI RITH
NAHEITILTE, ACHNACH
BHFUILCEADAITHELELINN
DONEITLENBHEITHAG
GLUAISEACHTARTALAMH/AG
IR DETHALAMH/ AGTABHAIRT
FAOINDREAPADHTOSAIGH/
AGDRIARTHUIRLINGT/
AGTUIRLINGT: Romhair gline
le tiomntn dlthdhiosca (CD
ROM) n diosca digiteach ilside
(DVD). Eagraithe pearsanta boise.
ireamhin limhe gan phrintiri.
Clostrealamh iniompartha (ms
Walkman, seinnteoir CD, seinnteoir
Mini-disk, iPod, seinnteoir MP3). Ar
mhaithe le compordna bpaisiniri
eile, nor choir na glasanna seo a
sidach amhin le cluaisn. Cluich
romhaire (ms Gameboy). Nl cead
gaireas forimeallach a sidle
cluich limhe romhaire amar bith
(ms paca forlontach cumhachta a
cheanglatear le cbla). Fscheamara
agus fstaifeadin, trealamh
digiteach san ireamh. Ceamara
digiteach. Glacadir limhe chras
suite domhanda (GPS). Rsir
leicreacha. Bragin leictreonacha
(seachas bragin chianrialaithe).
Glasanna Bluetooth i gcomhar
le guthin phca agus iadi modh
eitilte; uirlis a bhaineann feidhm
as teicneolaocht Blackberry agus
mdeitilte n slnmhdeitilte
roghnaithe orthu; romhair gline;
romhair boise (PDA) le Wi-Fi ionsuite
agus an lipadraidi mchta
roghnaithe orthu.

GLASANNAABHFUIL
COSCIOMLNORTHU:
Glasanna a tharchuireann
minicocht raidi daon turas.
Silscalaithe. Bragan
chianrialaithe. Aonaid fhstaispena
le feadin ga-chatadideacha.
Trealamh romhaire gan sreang (ms
luch). Printir PC. Schrbhneoiri
DVD, CDagus taifeadin Mini-
disk at sa mhodh taifeadta.
Ceamthaifeadin digiteacha agus
iad ag athscrobh dlthdhiosca.
Steirnna iniompartha. Raidinna
pca (AM/ FM). Glacadiri teilifse.
Trealamh teilimadrach. N
cheadatear fearas LANgan sreang
(WLAN) a sid. Is fidir romhair
gline a bhfuil WLANionsuite iontu
(ms Centrino) a sd le linn na
heitilte ar choinnoll go bhfuil WLAN
curtha as agus faoi rir na srianta
a bhaineann le hsid romhhair
gline (thuas luaite).
Food and bar
service
A new range of food items
including sandwiches,
confectionery and a range of
snacks is available for sale
on all Aer Lingus scheduled
services to and from the UK
and Europe. A charge applies
for all drinks on UK and
European ights in Economy
class. On long haul ights,
there is a charge in Economy
class for alcoholic drinks, while
soft drinks are complimentary.
Details of all items available
for purchase are contained in
an information leaet, which is
in all seat pockets.
News, music
and movies
On long haul ights, we oer
you an extensive programme
of viewing and listening
options. For full details, turn
towards the back of this
magazine.
Seirbhs bia
agus beir
T raon nua bia ar fil anois
ar sheirbhs sceidealta Aer
Lingus a dhanann freastai
ar an Riocht Aontaithe agus
ar an Eoraip. Ina measc, t
ceapair, milseogra agus rogha
sneaiceanna agsla. N mr
oc as gach deoch sa ghrd
barainne ar na heitilt seo.
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha, t
costas ar dheochanna neamh-
mheiscila go fill ar fil saor
in aisce. T sonra faoi gach
rud is fidir a cheannach ar
bord foilsithe sa bhileog eolais
at i bpca an tsuochin os
do chomhair.
Nuacht, ceol
agus scannin
Ar eitilt Trasatlantacha t
clr leathan fachana agus
isteachta ar fil. Le hagaidh
tuilleadh eolais, fach
deireadh na hirise seo.
Aer Lingus is delighted to welcome you on board
T thas ar Aer Lingus filte ar bord a chur romhat
SMOKING
In line with Irish government
regulations, Aer Lingus has a no-
smoking policy onboard its ights.
Smoking is not permitted in any
part of the cabin at any time.
TOBAC
De rir rialachin Rialtas na hireann,
t polasai i rimar eitilt Aer Lingus
nach gceadatear tobac a chaitheamh.
N cheadatear daon duine tobac a
chaitheamh in aon chuid
den eitlen ag aon am.
We hope you have a comfortable and pleasant fight. Thank you for choosing to fy with Aer Lingus.
T suil againn go mbonn turas compordach taitneamhach agat agus go raibh maith agat as taisteal le hAer Lingus.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 91
In January, Aer Lingus celebrated the arrival of
20 new cadet pilots. It is over a decade since
the airline launched a cadet programme so
it was an occasion flled with excitement and
anticipation. The group of recruits, made up of 17
men and three women, hails from the Republic
of Ireland, Northern Ireland and Great Britain.
The airline received an overwhelming response
with over 2,000 applications for the Aer Lingus
Cadet Pilot Training programme.
The cadets will undergo a 14-month
training programme with FTEJerez, the
fight training provider of cadet pilots, based
in Jerez, Spain. The training will include
fve months of ground school followed by
basic fying on single and then multi engine
aircraft. The cadets will return to Aer Lingus
in early summer 2013 to complete further
training including an airline transition course,
simulator and safety training. Following
the successful completion, the cadets will
receive their wings and commence fying the
airlines feet of Airbus 320 aircraft.
AerLingusNews
350, 000downloads for Aer Lingus mobile App
Since the launch of the Aer Lingus
Mobile App last June, there has
been over 350,000 downloads.
The rollout of mobile check-in
has been on a phased basis since
its launch last June. Mobile check-
in is now available on all routes to
the UK and Europe from Dublin,
to and from all UK airports from
Shannon, to and from all UK and
European airports from Belfast,
from London Heathrow and
Gatwick to all Irish airports and
from Brussels to Cork.
We have seen a rapid increase
in the number of customers
availing of mobile check-in since
its expansion. Customers are
also using the App to check their
fight status, schedules and fare
information. The App allows
customers the extra fexibility to
interact with Aer Lingus while on
the move.
Pictured left, Graeme McDowell, with the Darcy
family and Aer Lingus cabin crew Neasa Arnold and
Kelly Ann McConville. The family were one of seven
families travelling on a trip of a lifetime to Orlando.
The children are cardiac patients of Our Ladies
Childrens Hospital in Crumlin, supported by the
G-Mac foundation in partnership with Aer Lingus.
6%
= the rise in
revenue for
Aer Lingus in
2011 with a proft of 49.1m
697
Aer Lingus
fights will
operate from
Dublin Airport
this summer.
Aer Lingus tAkes newcADet
piLots unDer its wings
92 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Families with young children can nowenjoy the convenience of a designated check-in zone
and can nowdrop off their buggy, car seat or travel cot and go.
Aer Lingus crew tAke
pride of pLAce on the
red cArpet
Aer Lingus was one of the co-sponsors
of the Jameson Dublin International Film
Festival. The premiere of Irish-made movie
Albert Nobbs was the high point of an Aer
Lingus Gala Evening on Saturday, February
18. Invited Aer Lingus customers were
treated to the gala viewing of the movie
and a Q & A discussion with Hollywood
actress Glenn Close, who starred in and
produced the movie, her performance
securing her an Oscar nomination. Ms
Close was one of the many Hollywood stars
who chose to fly Aer Lingus to attend the
festival. On the gala evening, Aer Lingus
cabin crew wowed the movie-goers and
paparazzi with their retro uniform style.
AerLingusNews
Aer Lingus recently launched its extensive schedule for
summer 2012 which is packed with exciting new routes
and increased frequencies on many of the old favourite
destinations.
This summer, customers flying with Aer Lingus from
Dublin will be spoiled for choice with fantastic new
routes, Verona and Stockholm and holiday favourites;
Alicante, Nice, Paris, Lanzarote, Ibiza, Dubrovnich and
Tenerife, to name but a few.
Those preferring to travel from Cork now have 84
flights per week to 14 destinations to choose from,
including Barcelona, Faro, Malaga, Rome, Paris and the
brand new three times weekly service to Brussels.
Aer Lingus continues to offer great value and
excellent service including advance seat selection,
tailored fare options for your individual needs and a
mobile App for Aer Lingus information while youre on
the move. For a small fee, customers can also avail of
lounge access. Experience the peace and quiet of the
brand new refurbished lounges in Dublin and London
Heathrow Airports.
Aer Lingus launches Dublin and
Cork schedule for summer 2012
dublins Bernard Brogan and eamonn fennell kickstart the summer 2012 schedule
pictured with Aer Lingus staf, edel staunton, left, and irene ryan, right.
from left to right, Aer Lingus cabin creworla
harnett, Muriel cooke, donna wright and
erika kelly sporting past and present uniforms
to celebrate the special Aer Lingus sponsored
screening of the irish premiere of Albert Nobbs at
the savoy cinema dublin, saturday, february 18.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 93
MISSIONIMPOSSIBLE:
GHOSTPROTOCOL
Drama (PG 13) 133 minutes
The IMF is shut down when its implicated
in a global terrorist bombing plot. The
President initiates Ghost Protocol and
Ethan and his rogue newteammust go
undercover to clear their organizations
name. You have never seen a mission grittier
and more intense than this. Left without
any resources or backup, Ethan must fnd a
way to clear his agencys name and prevent
another attack. To complicate matters
further, Ethan is forced to embark on this
mission with a teamof fellowIMF fugitives
whose personal motives he does not fully
know.
STARS Tom Cruise, Jeremy Renner,
Simon Pegg, Paula Patton, Ving Rhames,
Josh Holloway, Tom Wilkinson
DIRECTOR Brad Bird
More Movies On Demand
A DANGEROUS METHOD
Keira Knightley
THE GIRL WITH THE
DRAGON TATTOO
Rooney Mara
MY WEEK WITH MARILYN
Michelle Williams
NEWYEARS EVE
Ashton Kutcher
WE BOUGHT A ZOO
Matt Damon
I AMYOU
Guy Pearce
THE DOUBLE
Richard Gere
ANOTHER HAPPY DAY
Kate Bosworth
BUNRAKU
Demi Moore
ACROSS THE LINE:
THE EXODUS OF
CHARLIE WRIGHT
Aidan Quinn
IMMORTALS
Mickey Rourke
WOODY ALLEN:
A DOCUMENTARY
ALVINANDTHECHIPMUNKS:
CHIPWRECKED
Justin Long
SCOOBY DOO: LEGEND
OF THE PHANTASAU
Jef Bennett
FREE WILLY: ESCAPE
FROMPIRATES COVE
Beau Bridges
HUGO
Family / Drama / Adventure (PG)
126 minutes
Hugo, director Martin Scorseses lavishly
staged fantasy set in 1930s Paris is a
reminder of the importance of flm
preservation, and won fve Oscars at this
years Academy Awards. Based on the
award-winning NewYork Times best-seller,
Hugo is the astonishing adventure of a
resourceful twelve-year old boy who lives
in the walls of a busy Paris train station. His
survival depends on secrets and anonymity.
His quest to unlock a secret left to himby
his father will transformHugo and all those
around himto reveal a safe and loving place
he can call home.
STARS Christopher Lee, Sacha Baron
Cohen, Ben Kingsley, Jude Law,
Emily Mortimer
DIRECTOR Martin Scorsese
The Descendants
Hugo
Mission Impossible:
Ghost protocol
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
From Dublin to Boston, Chicago,
New York and Orlando;
from Shannon to Boston and
New York; from Madrid to
Washington. Movies available
are listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
FLIGHTS TOTHE US
THE DESCENDANTS
Comedy / Drama (R)
115 minutes
Academy Award-winning movie fromflm-
maker Alexander Payne, The Descendants
is a sometimes humorous, sometimes tragic
journey for Matt King, an indiferent husband
and father of two girls, who is forced to
re-examine his past and embrace his future
when his wife sufers a boating accident.
The event leads to a rapprochement with
his young daughters while Matt wrestles
with a decision to sell the familys land
handed down fromHawaiian royalty and
missionaries. This Oscar winner is also a
Golden Globe winner for Best Picture
(Drama) and Best Actor George Clooney.
STARSGeorge Clooney, Judy Greer,
Beau Bridges
DIRECTOR Alexander Payne
94 | april/may 2012
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
THE ARTIST
Comedy / Romance (PG 13 )
100 minutes
French writer-director Michel Hazanaviciuss
afectionate ode to the late-silent and early
sound eras in Hollywood won fve Academy
Awards, including Best Actor for Jean
Dujardin, Best Director and the ultimate
accolade of Best Picture. Set in Hollywood
in 1927, George Valentin is a silent movie idol.
Valentin meets Peppy, an aspiring actress
and the two are attracted to each other. The
advent of the talkies will sound the death
knell for his career. For Peppy it seems the
skys the limit and major movie stardom
awaits. The Artist tells the story of their
interlinked destinies.
STARSJean Dujardin, Brnice
Bejo and John Goodman
DIREcToR Michel Hazanavicius
More Movies On Demand
SHERLocK HoLMES:
A GAME oF SHADoWS
Robert Downey Jr.
J.EDGAR
Leonardo di Caprio
cARNAGE
Kate Winslet
TWILIGHT SAGA:
BREAKINGDAWN
PART 1
Robert Pattinson
ToWER HEIST
Eddie Murphy
MAcHINE GUN PREAcHER
Gerard Butler
THE SITTER
Jonah Hill
DIRTY GIRL
Milla Jovovich
SEVEN DAYS IN UToPIA
Robert Duvall
IMSTILL HERE
Joaquin Phoenix
THE SoN oF NooNE
Al Pacino
THE MUPPETS
Amy Adams
GARFIELDS PET
FoRcE
Frank Welker
YoGI BEAR
Justin Timberlake
cATS AND DoGS:
THE REVENGE oF KITTY
GALoRE
Bette Midler
WAR HoRSE
Drama / History/ War (PG 13)
146 minutes
Oscar nominated War Horse is set against
a sweeping canvas of rural England and
Europe during the First World War, and
marks the remarkable friendship between
a horse named Joey and a young man
who tames and trains him. When they
are forcefully parted, the flmfollows the
extraordinary journey of the horse as
he moves through the war, changing and
inspiring the lives of all those he meets. The
First World War is experienced through the
journey of this horse in an odyssey of joy
and sorrow, passionate friendship and high
adventure.
STARSJeremyIrvine, EmilyWatson,
Peter Mullan
DIREcToR Steven Spielberg
THE IRoN LADY
Drama (PG 13)
105 minutes
The Iron Lady is a flm about power and
the price one pays for it, a story that is
both unique and universal. Meryl Streep
gives a surprising and intimate portrait
of Margaret Thatcher, the frst and
only female Prime Minister of the UK.
One of the 20th centurys most famous
and infuential women, she came from
nowhere to smash through barriers
of gender and class to be heard in a
male-dominated world. Meryl Streep
has won her third Academy Award for
her depiction as Thatcher as well as the
Golden Globe and a BAFTA.
STARS Meryl Streep, Jim Broadbent,
Roger Allam, Richard E. Grant,
Olivia Colman
DIREcToR Phyllida Lloyd
The Iron Lady
The Artist
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
From Boston, Chicago, New
York and Orlando to Dublin;
from New York and Boston to
Shannon; from Washington to
Madrid. Movies available are
listed below. All movie details
and ratings can be accessed
through your personal screen.
Movies
War Horse
FLIGHTS FROMTHE US
april/may 2012 | 95
On Demand TV allows you to control your
TV content and select the most anticipated
shows on TV. Brand new COMEDY
HIGHLIGHTS features Absolutely
Fabulous, Two and A Half Men and New
Girl, Modern Family as well as How I Met
Your Mother, Nurse Jackie, Family Guy
and The Simpsons. From HBO watch out
for Enlightened starring Laura Dern and
Classic Comedy takes in Sex and the City
and Cheers.
There is brand new DRAMA in
Homeland an intriguing drama with an
immensely talented cast, this gripping
thriller stars Claire Danes, in fact
Showtimes edgy, edge-of-your-seat series,
is, bar none, the best thriller on American
TV (New York Post).Also featured is
Boss starring Kelsey Grammer. The series
follows Tom Kane, the mayor of Chicago,
who has recently been diagnosed with a
degenerative neurological disorder. Other
award-winning Drama available On-
Demand includes The Good Wife, Mad
Men and two episodes of In Treatment
starring Gabriel Byrne in the role of his life.
Its time to fasten your seat belts for the
eighth and fnal season of Entourage!
The HBO Emmy and Golden Globe award-
ON DEMAND
winning hit comedy is executive produced
by Mark Wahlberg and takes a look at
the life of Vince Chase, a hot young actor
in Hollywood and the entourage he has
brought with him from Queens, New York.
Available are the frst eight episodes of
Season 8.
Game of Thrones is another HBO
triumph and available On-Demand is the
fnal eight episodes (Season 1) of Game
of Thrones. This ambitious and visually
stunning new series is set in a quasi-medieval
world with a mythic history riddled with
confict. Described by Newsday as the best-
written TV show of the year and by the Los
Angeles Times as a great and thundering
series epic television.
Dont miss the fnal six episodes of the
mini-series The Kennedys, the story of the
most fabled and legendary political family
in American history. The Emmy-winning
television mini-series chronicles the lives of
the famous US family. It features a stellar
cast including Greg Kinnear, Katie Holmes,
Barry Pepper and Tom Wilkinson.
Available On-Demand is eight episodes
from Season 1 of The Borgias the saga of
a crime family set in Italy in 1492. Starring
Jeremy Irons, The Borgias was created and
executive produced
by renowned Irish
director Neil Jordan.
This frst-class
medley of Drama
TV also takes in the
fnal fve episodes
from Season 1 of Blue
Bloods starring Tom
Selleck. Created by
The Sopranos alumni
Mitchell Burgess and
Robin Green, Blue
Bloods is a solid,
character-driven,
multi-story serial
drama. Sellecks
character serves as the anchor for four
generations of police ofcers.
TEENS onboard can enjoy the multi
award-winning Glee and, new from Disney,
Shake It Up. Kids can look forward to
Barney and Friends, Fireman Sam,
Pingu, Ben and Izzy and Ballybraddan.
LIFESTYLE, SPORT AND MUSIC
HIGHLIGHTS include HSBC Golfng
World, 24/7 Flyers/ Rangers Road to the
NHL Winter Classic, The Show, Anthony
Bourdain: No Reservations, Americas
Next Top Model, Videofashion Daily,
Chefs Around the World, Vine Talk, Phil
Spencer: Secret Agent, Horizons, Live
From Abbey Road, Seven Ages of Rock,
Other Voices in NYC.
DOCUMENTARY HIGHLIGHTS take
in Megafactories (Coca Cola), Ancient
Secrets, Animal Atlas, Attenboroughs
Journey, Inside The Actors Studio (Ricky
Gervais) and the awe-inspiring Human
Planet as well as a Movie Talk special on
Gabriel Byrne.
Game of Thrones
Enlightened
Entourage
Television
INFLIGHT ENTERTAINMENT
96 | april/may 2012
Radio
ON DEMAND
Chart Hits
Chart Hits lifts the
lid on the latest
pop hits. From Brit
award-winners that
includes Rihanna,
X Factor stars
One Direction, Rebecca Ferguson
and Cher Lloyd to true global
superstars Beyonc, Lady Gaga
and Katy Perry as well as newcomer
Jessie J and oh so much more, this
show is a thrilling mix of the most
recent chart sounds.
Phantom 105.2
Phantom 105.2 is quite simply the
home of the very best music played
on any Irish radio station. Phantom
is committed to playing brand new
music, Indie Rock but really we will
play all genres of music if its a
great track, we will play it. Oh, we
also like having a bit of craic along
the way so why not try something
diferent and tune into Phantom
105.2 we promise you wont be
disappointed! We are Phantom
music that rocks!
Fitzpatrick Hotels
This is a contemporary easy-
listening collection of songs
from both sides of the Atlantic,
brought to you compliments of The
Fitzpatrick Hotel Group USA. With
two hotels in downtown Manhattan,
Grand Central and Fitzpatrick
Manhattan, Fitzpatricks is the place
to stay in NYC.
The Big 10
The Big 10 on 98FM features ten
songs with a connection. Tune into the
countdown every Sunday morning at
10am as we countdown The Big 10,
each week a diferent set of songs
are featured each with a diferent
connection. Presented Darragh ODea
of Dublins 98 FM, this special show
for Aer Lingus, looks at The Big 10 Irish
songs of all time.
Grace Notes
Ellen Cranitch takes a look back
at some of the recordings from
the traditional music world that
were released in 2011. Grace Notes
includes music from some seasoned
old hands, as well as new kids on
the block. This is a nostalgic journey
for lovers of traditional music as
well as newcomers to the genre
and features the fnest traditional
recordings from last year.
La Stupenda
Presented by Liz Nolan of RT
Lyric FM, La Stupenda is a
commemorative programme on
the life and work of one of the
great divas of the 20th century, the
Australian Joan Sutherland. This
Lyric Feature charts the beloved
Dames long and illustrious career
with the music which made her
famous and the recollections of her
colleagues from the opera world.
Jazz Alley
2011 marked both the 40th
anniversary and 110th birthday of
the great Louis Armstrong. In this
Jazz Alley special Donald Helme
takes the opportunity to collect his
thoughts and speaks with renowned
jazz expert Dan Morgenstern and jazz
critic and author of Satchmo The
Genius of Louis Armstrong, Gary
Giddins. In this fascinating show
Helme and guests refect on the life
and achievements of the greatest and
most popular jazz musician of all time.
Best Hits of 2011
Take a recent trip
down memory lane
in this retrospective
of the most popular
hits from 2011. Best
Hits of 2011 features
massive hits including the biggest-
selling artist of the year, Adele, as
well as other instantly recognisable
songs from Maroon 5, Britney Spears,
Ed Sheeran, Coldplay, Chris Brown,
Bruno Mars and more.
april/may 2012 | 97
Radio
ON DEMAND
Broadway Favourites
Broadway
Favourites may
tempt you to visit
a Broadway show
whilst in New York
or indeed provide
inspiration to tread the boards
yourself. This show really is a moving
collection of memorable songs from
the worlds most famous Broadway
musicals. Tune in to hear hits from
Les Misrables, Guys and Dolls, West
Side Story and many more. Enjoy!
Soul Plane
Sit back, unwind
and while away
your time with
Soul Plane; a
soothing and
sublime selection
of mellow grooves and laid-back
songs. This impressive repertoire
of relaxing Soul classics features
legendary artists such as Barry
White, The Drifters, Nina Simone,
Chic, The Four Tops, Isaac Hayes,
Otis Redding and more.
Aer Guitar
Tune into Aer Guitar presented by
Marty Miller to hear some legendary
rock classics. You can also hear
Marty on Irish radio, weekdays from
2pm on Radio NOVA 100FM, from
Dublin to the World! Aer Guitar
features seriously addictive guitar-
based rock music.
That Decade 1950s
Rock n Roll
emerged in the
mid-1950s as
the new cultural
movement and as
the music of choice
for the masses. Elvis Presley was the
leading fgure of the new sound as
he, along with other stars, including
Chuck Berry, Little Richard, Fats
Domino, Jerry Lee Lewis became
household names. Essentially the
1950s gave birth to Rock n Roll as
we know it today.
That Decade 1960s
The 1960s was
a revolutionary
decade in terms
of fashion, culture
and music. This was
the decade that
saw the explosion of Popular Music
and in turn the hit record became
a phenomenon that continues to
this very day. Artists featured on
the show include The Monkees,
The Beach Boys, Jackie Wilson, The
Animals and The Isley Brothers.
That Decade 1970s
The 1970s
witnessed a new
dawn in music
spanning a range
of genres from
disco, glam rock
to smooth jazz, electronic music
and punk. That Decade 1970s
showcases an interesting repertoire
of hits from a musically eclectic time.
Artists that can be heard include The
Pointer Sisters, Santana, Hot Gossip,
Heart, Earth Wind and Fire, Mac
Davis and many others.
Copeland Classics
Welcome to the music of Copeland
Classic Hits brought to you courtesy
of Louis Copeland and Sons, a name
synonymous with mens tailoring in
Dublin. Louis Copeland is a world
renowned master tailor and provider
of mens designer suits for over 100
years. Louis Copeland and Sons
can be found in Dublin on Capel St,
Pembroke St and Wicklow St and
beside the IFSC, as well as at Dublin
Airport and in Galway on Merchants
Road. From Armani, Brioni, Hugo
Boss and Paul Smith all leading
labels are available at their stores.
louiscopeland.com.
Best of Moncrief
Best of Moncrief is a lively mix
of funny, engaging and irreverent
features. Its insightful format
gives listeners a unique listening
experience. Tune into Best of
Moncrief every weekday from
1.30-4.30pm on Newstalk 106-108fm
for a lively mix of phone-ins, text
messages and stories from around
the world and down your street. Text
531006, email afternoon@newstalk.
ie or follow Sean on Twitter @
SeanMoncrief.
98 | april/may 2012



C E N T R E S
Camden Citywest Sandyford
Sandyford Business Centre special oer:
12 months for the price of 8 months*
Our monthly licence fee oers an
all-inclusive business package starting from
250 per person per month...
*Terms and Conditions Apply
Ireland: +353 1 6392939 United Kingdom: +44 20 3364 5438
Email: info@premierbusinesscentres.com
www.premierbusinesscentres.com
FULLY SERVICED OFFICE SUITES
CALL ANSWERING BUSINESS MAILING ADDRESS OFFICE SHARE MEETING ROOMS
Safety brief
We would like to bring your attention to the following safety and security measures:
Please pay attention to any
instructions given to you by the
cabin crew.
Any behaviour towards a fellow
passenger or cabin crew that
is deemed to be threatening or
abusive (including the use of
oensive language) is a serious
matter.
As our priority is the safety of
all passengers, it is important
not to interrupt the cabin
crew while they carry out their
duties, and not to interfere with
aircraft equipment.
As a service to passengers,
alcohol is served in the airport
lounges and on board. In the
interests of safety, Aer Lingus
may refuse to allow you board
if it is thought too much alcohol
has been consumed. While
the majority of passengers
are responsible, there have
occasionally been incidents
where intoxicated passengers
have caused serious safety
hazards. Passengers are
reminded also that during the
ight you may not consume
any alcohol brought onto the
aircraft by you or any other
passenger. The consumption
inight of Duty Free alcohol
purchased from the Sky
Shopping service is also
prohibited. This measure is,
again, necessary in the interests
of ight safety.
If incidents of this kind occur
during a ight, the cabin crew
is obliged to contact police on
arrival at your nal destination.
The Aircraft Captain may also
divert the ight enroute in
order to remove disruptive
passengers. Should this
happen, Aer Lingus will not
be responsible for getting
you home, your ticket money
will not be refunded, and in
addition to the authorities
awaiting you on landing you
could be heavily ned and/or
be liable to a prison sentence.
In many cases, other airlines
may subsequently refuse to
allow you to y with them.
We emphasise that while on
board the aircraft our priority
is your safety. As always, we
wish you a safe and enjoyable
ight, as well as a safe onward
journey.
Suggestions and light exercises to enhance your comfort and well-being during your ight:
Wear loose-tting clothes on board to
allow your skin to breathe, and apply a
good moisturiser throughout.
Stretch your legs as much as possible
by taking a stroll through the cabin.
Circle your ankles clockwise and anti-
clockwise. Bend and straighten your
ankles in a brisk manner with the knee
straight.
Trace the letters of the alphabet with
your foot by moving your ankles.
Exercising your feet and legs
periodically helps to reduce any
possible eects of long-duration travel.
Avoid sitting or sleeping in the same
position for too long and gently stretch
muscles to improve your circulation.
And remember to move your neck
and shoulders during long ights to
prevent stiness.
We wish you an enjoyable experience.
Reducing the eects
of jet-lag
To help reduce the eects of travelling
and jet-lag before, during and after
your ight, we have introduced
an audio programme (available on
Channel 6), which will play every other
hour, oering 60 minutes of soothing
and relaxing audio environments. The
programme is designed to enhance
your physical and mental wellbeing
during the ight.
Apart from tuning in to the inflight
relaxation programme, here are
some other simple things that you
can do to prepare for your journey.
Ideally, avoid heavy food, alcohol,
tea or coee the day before you
travel.
When you arrive at your
destination, try to adjust your
activities gradually to the new
time zone.
Mild exercise on arrival will also
help to stimulate your circulation.
Carry-on baggage
Carry-on baggage on Aer Lingus services is restricted
to one piece per person, as well as to the weights and
measurements, illustrated below.
Aer Lingus is pleased to bring you some suggestions and light exercises to
enhance your comfort and wellbeing during your ight:
Additional small items, such as cameras, personal stereos,
overcoats and handbags are allowed on board. EU security
rules regarding liquids, gels and aerosols in cabin baggage
apply. Flights departing the USA are subject to TSA
security rules. Passengers in Row 1, or at an emergency
exit, MUST store baggage in an overhead bin.
Maximum
weight
10kg
(22 lbs)
Maximum
weight
7kg
(15 lbs)
AER LINGUS AER LINGUS
REGIONAL
43cm
(17ins)
28cm
(11ins)
20cm
(8ins)
40cm
(16ins)
55cm
(22ins)
20cm
(8ins)
Wellbeing
Passengers with
wheelchair requirements
Our priority is to always ensure
the safety and comfort of all
passengers. We encourage
passengers who may need
assistance to contact us well in advance of
their date of travel to enable us to assess
their needs.
If you are a wheelchair user or require
wheelchair assistance when travelling on
Aer Lingus services, please advise us of
your requirements at least 48 hours in
advance, quoting your booking reference
number. Our contact details are as follows:
email: specialassistance@aerlingus.com
Telephone:
(Ireland) 0818 365 011
08:00 - 18:00 Mon-Fri &
09:00 - 17:00 Sat & Sun
(UK) 0871 718 20 21
(Europe) + 353 1 886 8333
(USA) 516 622 4222
100 | APRIL/MAY 2012
MEDI A
job S00184_13 NOTE GLOBAL_[business]_290x220_Ireland_[Vodafone]_v2
Pro 100% Page
1
TrIM/TYPe 290 x 220 mm
daTe 14 March 2012 12:20 PM bleed 3mm
SI GN OFF
Creative director account Client
Copywriter art director design/Type
Cara MagazIne
Its Galaxy Note!
Phone? Tablet?
Precise Pen Input
www.samsung.com/ie/galaxynote
Screen images simulated. 2012 Samsung Electronics Co. Ltd.
S00184_13 NOTE GLOBAL_[business]_290x220_Ireland_[Vodafone]_v2.indd 1 14/03/2012 12:20
Colm Moloney, Director. Know Thy Place
Damian Shiels, Director. Know Thy Place
DDDDDamian SShiels, Directoor. Knowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTThhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhy PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPllllllllllllllllllllllllllllace
CORK 0
100km
Donegal
Down
Armagh Fermanagh
Tyrone
Londonderry Antrim
Mayo
Roscommon
Leitrim
Meath
Kildare
Kilkenny
Waterford
Tipperary
Offaly
Laois
Limerick
Kerry
Clare Wexford
Wicklow
Carlow
Dublin
Cavan
West Meath
Monaghan
Louth
Sligo
Galway
Longford
Munster
Leinster
Connacht
Ulster
N
0
Li Lime merick ck
Kerry
Tipper erary ry
Cork
City
Ri ver Bl ackwat er
Ri ver Lee
ndon River
Ri ver Bl a l ckwat er
Ri ver Lee
ndon Rive v r e
Bantry
Macroom
Clonakilty
Skibbereen
Mallow
Buttevant
7
5
4
10
14
8
11
13
15
16
17
18
19
21
23
24
26
28
29
30
32
3
36
39
40
41
47
48
55 55
57
58
= House
= Flint artefact
= Megalithic tomb = Copper mining = Axe mould
= Shell midden
= Stone circle
= Hoard
= Burnt mound
= Metalworking site
= Roun
=
= Viking
= P
= Og
= Ring Fo
County Cork
Area: 7,499 km2 (2,895.4 sq mi)
Population (2006): 481,295
Recorded Archaeological Sites: 18,394
C
o
u
n
t
y
C
o
rk
The county of Cork is located on the south coast of Ireland, in the province of Munster and takes its name from the
settlement which grew into the City of Cork. It is bounded by county Tipperary to the northeast, Limerick to the north,
Kerry to the west, Waterford to the east and the Celtic Sea to the south. Cork has the largest area of all the counties in
Ireland and is often described as a microcosm of the country with rugged mountain landscapes in the west and rolling arable
land in the east. Three major rivers traverse the county, the Lee, Blackwater and Bandon rivers.
The Prehistoric Period
During the Mesolithic period, people lived a nomadic existence and survived by hunting, fishing and gathering. They
predominantly utilised areas close to water such as coastal regions, rivers and lakes. The structures these people inhabited
were temporary in nature and do not leave much evidence in the archaeological record, however recent excavations at
Curraghprevin(1) revealed hearths associated with stake and post built structures and pits and worked stone tools were
recovered. Field-walking programmes along the Blackwater valley(2) and East Cork coastline(3) have also yielded worked stone
tools. Despite the absence of evidence for Mesolithic activity in other areas, it is likely that much of the county was occupied.
Agriculture, together with the use of pottery, was first introduced into Ireland during the Neolithic. Settlement from this
period is difficult to identify in the landscape although in recent years excavations have revealed houses of this date such as
Pepperhill(4) , Ballincollig(5) and Gortore(6) . The most obvious sites from this period are megalithic monuments used for burial
of the dead. Examples of passage tombs (The Lag(7) ), portal tombs (Ahaglasin(8) ) and wedge tombs are known in the county.
The north and west of County Cork are particularly rich in wedge tombs and the example at Labbacallee(9) is one of the
largest of this type in Ireland. Many of these monuments remained in use into the Bronze Age.
The Bronze Age saw a population explosion in Ireland that led to the development of a social hierarchy and a warrior elite.
It was during this period that metalworking was introduced into Ireland which appears to have made its way to Irish shores
through trading and cultural contacts. The west of County Cork was a very important area during this period due to the
presence of copper ore. Mining of this took place at Mount Gabriel(10) on the Mizen Peninsula and on the Beara Peninsula(11) .
While some tools were manufactured in the county, as is evidenced by the stone axe moulds from Lyre(12) , much of the copper
was transported through trade links to other areas for working. The largest hoard of bronze axes found in Ireland was
recovered in County Cork. It comprised 25 axes recovered from Clashbredane, Ballineen(13) . A type of site commonly found
dating to this period are fulachta fia or burnt mounds which are areas of burning and heat-affected stones. The stones
were used to heat water for many functions including cooking, bathing and possibly brewing. County Cork is
particularly rich in this type of site with 3397 known examples. At Ballyvourney(14) the first scientific
archaeological excavation of this site type was undertaken during the 1950s. Wedge tombs, such as
Toormoor(15) , continued to be used into this period. Other funeral activity dating to this period
ranges from the stone lined cist burials to burial places for many people under mounds of earth
(barrows) or stones (boulder-burials). At Breenymore(16) four boulder-burials are located within a stone circle. Further
examples of stone circles are Drombeg(17) , Reanascreena South(18) , and Kealkill(19) .
The social structure which had been developed in the Bronze Age matured during the Iron Age into the Heroic Society
popularly referred to as The Celts; these people would have spoken a language akin to modern Irish. Archaeological
evidence for the Iron Age is often difficult to identify, but a metalworking site with furnaces from this period used to process
bog ore was excavated at Kilrussane(20) . A shell midden formed from food waste and dating from this period was excavated
at Glengarriff(21) . Other sites from this period are inland hill forts, such as Carn Tigherna(22) , and coastal promontory forts
such as Toehead(23) which often continued in use into later periods.
Corcaigh (from Corcach meaning marsh)
Land over 100m
River
Railway
Railway (disused)
LEGEND
www.knowthy
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
Cork KTP chart v2.ai 23/09/2011 10:56:20
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
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To & From Dublin
Austria
Vienna
Belgium
Brussels
Bulgaria
Bourgas*
Canary Islands
Fuerteventura
Gran Canaria
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Croatia
Dubrovnik
Czech Republic
Prague
Finland
Helsinki
France
Bordeaux
Lyon
Marseille*
Nice
Paris
Perpignan
Rennes*
Toulouse
Germany
Berlin
Dusseldorf
Frankfurt
Hamburg
Munich
Stuttgart
Greece
Athens*
Hungary
Budapest
Italy
Bologna
Catania
Milan (Linate)
Milan (Malpensa)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Verona (new
route)
Lithuania
Vilnius
Morocco
Agadir (route will cease
28th April)
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
Poland
Krakow
Warsaw
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Romania
Bucharest
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona
Bilbao
Ibiza*
Madrid
Malaga
Palma
Santiago de
Compostela*
Sweden
Stockholm (new route)
Switzerland
Geneva
Zurich
Turkey
Izmir
United Kingdom
Birmingham
Edinburgh
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Manchester
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Aberdeen
Blackpool
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey
Southend (commencing
10 May)
* Commencing 1 May
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
RouteMaps
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Santiago de Compostela
Rennes
Bourgas
Athens
Ibiza
Marseille
DUBLIN
Aberdeen
Glasgow Edinburgh
Blackpool
Manchester
Cardi Bristol
London
(Heathrow)
Birmingham
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(Gatwick)
Jersey
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DUBLIN
Paris
Geneva
Lyon
Zurich
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Frankfurt
Dusseldorf
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Hamburg
Berlin
Prague Krakow
Warsaw
Vilnius
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Budapest
Nice
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LINATE
Milan
MALPENSA
Bucharest
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Alicante
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Faro
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Fuerteventura
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Gran
Canaria
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Barcelona
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APRIL/MAY 2012 | 103
To & From Belfast, Cork, Shannon & Gatwick
FROMBELFAST
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Italy
Rome
Portugal
Faro*
Spain
Alicante
Barcelona*
Malaga
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
FROMCORK
Belgium
Brussels (newroute)
Canary Islands
Lanzarote
Tenerife
Las Palmas
France
Nice
Paris
Rennes*
Germany
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Rome
Portugal
Faro
Lisbon
Spain
Alicante*
Barcelona
Malaga
The Netherlands
Amsterdam
United Kingdom
London Gatwick
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Jersey*
Manchester
FROMGATWICK
Ireland
Cork
Dublin
Ireland West Airport
(Knock)
FROMSHANNON
United Kingdom
London Heathrow
United Kingdom
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Birmingham
Bristol
Edinburgh
Manchester
* Recommencing 1 May
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
EUROPEAN ROUTE NETWORK
Nice
Jersey
Rennes
SHANNON
CORK
BELFAST
Knock
Dublin
Amsterdam
Munich
Barcelona
Alicante
Lanzarote Tenerife
Rome
Malaga
Paris
LONDON GATWICK
London Heathrow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Brussels
Faro
Lisbon
Las Palmas
104 | APRIL/MAY 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
To & FromDublin, Shannon & Madrid
FROMDUBLIN
USA
Boston
Chicago
New York
Orlando
FROMSHANNON
USA
Boston
New York
FROMMADRID
USA
Washington DC
Chicago
New York
Boston
Dublin
Shannon
Madrid
USA ROUTE NETWORK
Washington
Orlando
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 105
FLY BETWEEN THE FOLLOWING CITIES VIA DUBLIN, SHANNON, NEWYORK, BOSTON & CHICAGO
New destinations with Aer
Lingus, in partnership with
JetBlue, United Airlines and
Aer Arann
Getting to the US from
destinations throughout
Europe has never been easier.
Now US, Irish and European
based customers can book
a single low fare reservation
between Ireland, Europe and
a wide range of continental US
destinations using JFK New
York, Boston and Chicago as
stopovers.
NEW YORK
Connecting with JetBlue at
JFK:
When you arrive from Dublin,
pick up your bags and clear
customs Then all you need to
do is drop o your bags at the
Aer Lingus transfer desk before
hopping onto the AirTrain to
JetBlues Terminal Five for your
domestic connection.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue domestic departure
point and then pick them up
again in Shannon or Dublin.
BOSTON
Connecting with JetBlue at
Boston Logan International
Airport:
When you arrive from Dublin,
pick up your bags and clear
customs. Turn left towards the
Aer Lingus transfer desk, where
you drop o your bags and then
take a short walk to Terminal
C for your JetBlue domestic
departure.
Passengers travelling from
the US to Ireland and Europe
will be able to check in bags at
the JetBlue departure point
and then pick them up again in
Shannon or Dublin.
CHICAGO
Connecting with United
Airlines at OHare Chicago
International Airport:
On arrival at Terminal Five from
Dublin, pick up your bags and
clear customs before rechecking
your bags at the United Airlines
Recheck Desk (which is to the
right of customs).
A nearby escalator takes
you to the ATS (Airport Transit
System), which runs every four
minutes, to Terminal Five and your
UA domestic departure point.
Passengers from the US to
Ireland and Europe can check in
bags at the UA departure point,
then exit security in Chicago
OHare to take the Airport
Transit System to Terminal
Five for the onward Aer Lingus
ight, and pick up their bags in
Shannon or Dublin.
DUBLIN
Connecting with Aer Lingus
Regional (operated by Aer
Arann) at Dublin Airport:
Aer Linguss interline agreement
with Aer Arann allows
passengers connect to Aer
Lingus transatlantic ights via
Dublin Airport, where they can
through check their luggage
directly to their nal US
destination.
All routes correct at time of going to press
Vancouver
Edmonton
Calgary
Winnipeg
Long Beach
Salt Lake City
Burbank
Minneapolis
CHICAGO
Kansas City
Saint Louis
Omaha
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Nashville
Atlanta
Orlando
SanJuan
Aguadilla
Ponce
WASHINGTON
(Dulles)
Fort Lauderdale
West PalmBeach
Fort Myers
NEWYORK
BOSTON
Toronto
Bualo
Detroit
Cleveland
Rochester
Columbus Indianapolis
Cincinnati
Lexington
Burlington
Syracuse
PortlandME
Seattle
PortlandOR
Denver
Sacramento
San Francisco
Oakland
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
San Diego
Phoenix
Austin
Houston
NewOrleans
Jacksonville
Tampa
Miami
Charlotte
Pittsburgh
Louisville
Richmond
Raleigh- Durham
Washington (National)
Baltimore
CONNECTINGEUROPE, USA & CANADA
106 | APRIL/MAY 2012
INFLIGHT ROUTE MAPS
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Alicante
Amsterdam
Barcelona
Berlin
Birmingham
Brussels
Dusseldorf
Edinburgh
Faro
Frankfurt
Geneva
Krakow
Lisbon
London (Gatwick)
London (Heathrow)
Madrid
Malaga
Manchester
Milan (Linate)
Munich
Paris
Rome
Venice
Vienna
Warsaw
VIA DUBLIN
with Aer Lingus
Regional
Operated by Aer Arann
Aberdeen
Bristol
Cardi
Edinburgh
Glasgow
VIA SHANNON
with Aer Lingus
London (Heathrow)
Manchester
VIA NEWYORK
with JetBlue
Aguadilla
Austin
Baltimore
Bualo
Burbank
Burlington
Charlotte
Denver
Fort Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Houston
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Ponce
Portland ME
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Rochester
Sacramento
Salt Lake City
San Diego
San Francisco
San Juan
Seattle
Syracuse
Tampa
West Palm Beach
VIA BOSTON
with JetBlue
Baltimore
Bualo
Dallas Fort Worth
Denver
Ford Lauderdale
Fort Myers
Jacksonville
Las Vegas
Long Beach
Los Angeles
New Orleans
Oakland
Orlando
Phoenix
Pittsburg
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Richmond
San Diego
San Francisco
San Juan
Seattle
Tampa
Washington (Dulles)
Washington
(National)
West Palm Beach
VIA CHICAGO
with United to USA
Atlanta
Austin
Charlotte
Cincinnati
Cleveland
Columbus
Dallas (Fort Worth)
Denver
Detroit
Houston
Indianapolis
Jacksonville
Kansas City
Las Vegas
Lexington
Los Angeles
Louisville
Miami
Minneapolis
Nashville
New Orleans
Omaha
Phoenix
Pittsburgh
Portland OR
Raleigh-Durham
Sacramento
San Diego
San Francisco
Seattle
St Louis
Tampa
VIA CHICAGO
with United to Canada
Calgary
Edmonton
Toronto
Vancouver
Winnipeg
Aer Lingus Regional routes operated by Aer Arann
Dublin
Shannon
Lisbon
Faro
Malaga
Alicante
Barcelona
Madrid
Geneva
Krakow
Milan (Linate)
Naples
Rome
Venice
Warsaw
Aberdeen
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Bristol
Dusseldorf
Amsterdam
Brussels
Paris
Manchester
Birmingham
London (Heathrow)
London
(Gatwick)
Frankfurt
Berlin
Munich
Vienna
Cardi
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 107
108 | APRIL/MAY 2012
Connecting at Heathrow Airport
Transferring to an international flight at Heathrow? Please disembark from the rear of the aircraft where a dedicated coach will take you to
the Heathrow Flight Connections area and reduce your journey time by an average of 20 minutes.
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE BACK OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
You are an international connecting passenger and all your
luggage* is checked through to your final destination
*Pushchairs checked to London can be collected
from the back of the aircraft
PLEASE DISEMBARK FROM THE FRONT OF THE AIRCRAFT IF:
London is your final destination
Your onward connection is to a domestic UK airport
Your luggage needs to be collected from Heathrow
You would like to leave the airport between flights
You or someone you are travelling with needs special assistance
CONNECTINGTOANOTHER AER LINGUS FLIGHT AT DUBLIN AIRPORT
FLIGHTS ARRIVINGAT TERMINAL 2
If you already have a boarding card for your
connecting ight, and your baggage has been
tagged to your nal destination, simply follow the
sign for Aer Lingus Flight Connections Desk, which
you will see on your left hand side as you enter
the Immigration Hall. By following this sign, you
will proceed to Immigration and Security Check.
After clearing these points, check the information
screens and proceed to your boarding gate.
If your baggage has not been tagged to your
final destination you must clear Immigration,
enter the baggage reclaim area, collect your
bag, exit through the Customs hall and proceed
to Aer Lingus check-in on the departures level.
Once you have reached the departures level,
check the information screens for your onward
flight information, and proceed as directed to
the appropriate check-in desk.
If you have any queries, or need further
assistance, please go to the Aer Lingus Flight
Connections Desk, which is located in the
baggage reclaim area in Terminal 2, where our
staff will be glad to help.
PLEASE NOTE: EU regulations concerning the carriage of liquids apply to your connecting flights at Dublin Airport
Aer Lingus
Flight
Connections
Desk
Immigration
Immigration
Security
Check
Escalator
to Gates
401 - 426
Lifts
to Gates
401 - 426
Terminal 2
Arrivals
To Gates 100s -
300s
Arrivals Route to
Baggage Reclaim
from Gates 400s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 100s - 300s
FLIGHT CONNECTIONS
Connecting ight departs
Gates 401 - 426
FlightConnections
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Glowla
Her name is glowla... her glam make-up
kit. Shes soft, seductive and Havana glam
time! Glowlas portable make-up kit is
packed with everything you need for an
unbelievably beautiful look! Glide on
warm luscious colour with the 5 shade
colour palette and pretty pink lip-gloss.
Its sooo good to be glowla!
Kit contains:
CORALista coral-pink
cheek powder with brush
High beam luminescent
complexion enhancer
Moon beam iridescent
complexion enhancer
5 shade shadow palette
BADgal lash mascara
Life on the A List lip gloss
Flu shadow / Hard angle brush
Dior Homme
Extremely rened, the
virile Dior Homme
perfectly and singularly
blends tradition and
modernity. Discover
this fragrance,
constructed around
an unprecedented
Tuscan iris accord with a
masculine touch.
The Knuttel Collection Tea
Tea Light Set
Vibrant and unique assorted
sets of tea lights, egg cups and
spoons along with shot glasses
by the internationally renowned
Irish artist Graham Knuttel for
Tipperary Crystal. There are 5
artworks featured in the sets:
Menu, The Terrace, Blue Lagoon,
Shark Ahoy and Seven Year Itch.
Presented in beautiful gift boxes,
this is a unique opportunity to
acquire striking and functional
items of artwork from one of
Irelands leading artists.
15-Year Anniversary Eyeshadow
Collection
Its Urban Decays party, and to celebrate were launching
15 new eyeshadow shades and only in this kit! With just the
right balance of neutrals and brights, darks and lights, the
15-Year Anniversary Palette is both versatile and the UD
junkies ultimate collection. Inside, the shadow tray pulls out
to reveal a compartment that can be used to stash jewellery
or whatever else youre hiding.
Celtic Wave
Gold-Plated
Pendant
Classic Celtic Knots are the
focus of this stunning open
work wave design pendant
which is made in rhodium
and gold-plate.
Aer Lingus Fun Plane
with FREE key-ring
Aer Lingus fun plane with realistic engine sounds and
ashing lights. It comes complete with batteries for
hours of fun.
Also included is a FREEgift of a miniature plane key-ring.
110 | APRIL/MAY 2012
INFLIGHT SKY SHOPPING
Lego Private Jet
A great newfun model for you
to build. The pilot of this small,
private jet is ready to take his
passenger to newand exciting
destinations around the world.
Grab your luggage, fasten your
seatbelt and get ready for the trip!
Balenciaga LEssence
Balenciaga LEssence is a leathery violet fragrance, revealing a
vibrant trail of contemporary elegance. The violet leaves are set
ablaze with warm spices at the top, while the heart becomes more
sensual as the amber leathery facets of labdanum warm up the
violet to express an asserted femininity.
Rock, Sensual, Modern.
Sekonda Sports Chronograph
Mens Watch
Large mens sports watch with ivory cream dial,
1 second stopwatch timing up to one hour and
24 hour readout. This watch features a leather
strap and is water resistant to 50 metres.
Guaranteed for 2 years.
Britta Sunglasses
These womens sunglasses from Ted Baker are the essential
accessory and feature a zip-pull temple, inspired by Ted
Bakers apparel collection. A must-have for the fashion
conscious this season. Oering full UVA and UVB
protection, these sunglasses come complete with travel
case, cleaning cloth and a 1 year guarantee.
Sky Shopping
Pleasecheckyour
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Sekonda Womens 2 Tone
Analogue Dress Watch
Featuring a white mother-of-pearl dial and stone
set case. Water resistant to 50m, i.e. swimproof.
Guaranteed for 2 years.
Aer Lingus welcomes you to our extensive range of amazing quality
items at reduced prices onboard during April/May.
APRIL/MAY 2012 | 111
TRIP OF A LIFETIME
112 | APRIL/MAY 2012
centre in Mazabuka that measures
could be quickly put in place to
ensure her sons result was negative.
Fridahs was just one of many
sad yet hopeful stories we heard
on our feld trip. Aer Lingus has
been supporting UNICEF Ireland
for 15 years, and our passengers
have raised almost $15 million
through emergency appeals and
donations of small change on
transatlantic fights. Your money
has been put to good use in
many disaster-hit areas, such as
the Philippines, Haiti and the
countries of east Africa.
Te people we met in
Zambia were inspiring. Tey
are proud of their country, their
culture and the fact that one of
the seven natural wonders of
the world the breathtaking
Victoria Falls lies within
its borders. Before returning
to Ireland, we joined
young UNICEF climate
ambassadors to pick up litter
in the Victoria Falls
National Park.
Tat evening, we
celebrated with
the locals as their
national football
team sailed through
to the semi-fnal of
the African Cup of
Nations (they went on
to win the fnal after a
penalty shoot out).
And yet, just one
hour away, deep in
rural Zambia, there are people
who do not even know Victoria
Falls exists. Teir children have
never played with a real football,
let alone watched their national
team on television. Te priorities
for these people are safe drinking
water, food, shelter, access to
medical care and keeping their
children safe.
We Aer Lingus and you are
helping UNICEF do a wonderful job
in Zambia, but there is still so much
more to be done. My trip to Zambia
in February was a once in a lifetime
trip. But my support for UNICEF
and the work they are doing all over
the world, will not end there, and I
hope yours wont either.
T
he hospital outside
Mazabuka in Zambia is
not much to look at. Te
doctor visits just once a
month. In four or fve
rooms, the hospitals one nurse/
midwife and her helpers deal with
a population of 8,000 people. Yet
miracles are performed in those
rooms every day.
I was in Mazabuka as an
ambassador for UNICEF. Every
year, eight Aer Lingus cabin crew are
chosen as ambassadors and undertake
a feld trip to see the organisations
work at frst hand. Te tiny hospital
in Mazabuka was one of the frst
in Zambia to be enrolled in Project
Mwana, a UNICEF-funded scheme
that uses SMS technology to speed
up HIV tests for expectant mothers.
Te project has reduced the wait
times for results by over half, and
means that treatment can begin
much sooner in cases where the
results are positive.
It was in Mazabuka
that I met Fridah, 29,
and her son Junior,
seven months. When
Fridah was expecting
Junior, she tested
positive for HIV. Under the
UNICEF scheme, her results were
back in two weeks (compared to
the usual six or eight) and Fridah
was able to start a course of
prophylaxis drugs to prevent the
spread of HIV to her unborn child.
When Junior was born at the
hospital, he was tested as soon as
possible for HIV and, thankfully,
his results were negative.
With the help and support
of this hospital and the new
technology in place, Fridah was
still able to breastfeed her newborn
son with very little risk. Both
mother and baby continue to be
very healthy. Although Fridah was
devastated when she herself was
diagnosed, she is so grateful to the
Top, local
UNICEF climate
ambassadors
with a message
for Aer Lingus
and passengers.
Above, Lynsey
Glasgow holds
a card with the
word that sums
up her experience
in Zambia. Below,
Lynsey talks to
Fridah, mother
to Junior, in
Mazabuka.
hope
TheGift
Aer Lingus cabin crew member Lynsey
Glasgow sees charity in action in Zambia.
P
H
O
T
O
G
R
A
P
H
S
B
Y
B
R
I
A
N
R
U
T
T
E
R
of
Your journey, you decide.
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Dont be restricted, its your journey, you decide what you want to do.
Click on the Hertz icon at aerlingus.com for the best possible rates.
O2-6956A-26 O2 Money Cara Mag.indd 1 3/9/12 4:24 PM