There are different methods for checking

ABRASION AND PILLING

on fabrics:
- Cesconi
- Atlas Acelleration (AATCC)
- Stoll
- Random Tumble (ASTM)
- ICI Box Pilling tester, code 279D
- Martindale
(ISO12673, IWTO 40-88, ASTM D-4966-4970, SN
198525/198529)
MARTINDALE TESTS
ABRASION TEST (ASTM 4966/4970, ISO12945-1):

BACKING FOAM code 314.10 ( mm)
SPECIMEN ( mm)
ABRASIVE FABRIC code 314.12 ( mm)
BACKING FELT code 314.8 ( mm)
The circular specimen of fabric is rubbed against the standard abrading fabric,
under a known pressure, following a predetermined path, known as Lissajous
figure (for checking this figure, offer the pointed steel bar code 2560.22). This
path changes from a circle to gradually narrowing ellipses, until it becomes a
straight line, from which widening ellipses develop, in a diagonally opposite
direction, before the pattern is repeated; thank to this movement all the surface
fibres are flexed in every direction.
The end point is reached on a woven fabric when two threads have completely
broken down or on a knitted fabric when a hole appears, i.e. one thread is
broken.
The sample has to be checked at suitable intervals, using a low power stereo
microscope (offer Diamond Microscope code 192A).
End point can also occur because of a change in shade or appearance that is
sufficient to cause a customer to complain (offer Grey scale ISO 105-A02,
code 267C).
However, the most objective method is to remove the specimens at intervals
and to condition and weight them, so as to determine the rate of weight loss.
IWS PILLING TEST (IWS TM 196):
BACKING FOAM code 314.10 ( mm)
SPECIMEN ( mm mm)
BACKING FELT code 314.8 ( mm)
SWISS PILLING TEST (SN 198525, ISO12945-2):
FELT ( mm code 314.20, mm 314.8)
SPECIMEN ( mm mm)
Using the Lissajous motion, three pairs of specimens are rubbed against each
other for 125, 500 and 2000 revolutions respectively.
The degree of pilling is assessed against EMPA photographic standards (for
knitted code 314.24 and woven code 314.18).
For this kind of test, a different plate with larger holes for inserting wider top
sample holders ( mm) is needed (Martindale 2560B/D or Swiss Pilling Kit
code 2560.300).
Table 1 Pilling visual assessment
Grade Description
5 No change
4 Slight surface fuzzing
1
and/or partially formed pills
2
3 Moderate surface fuzzing and/or moderate pilling. Pills of varying size and
density partially covering the specimen surface
2 Distinct surface fuzzing and/or distinct pilling. Pills of varying size and
density covering the specimen surface
1 Dense surface fuzzing and/or severe pilling. Pills of varying size and density
covering the whole of the specimen surface

1
Fuzzing: the roughing up of the surface fi bres and/or teasing out of the fibres from the fabric, which
produces a change in appearance. This change can occur during washing, dry cleaning and/or wearing.
2
Pills: bunches or bal ls of tangled fi bers that are held to the surface of a fabr ic by one or more fibr es.
ABRASION
The test is finished when the first two yarns
break (10.000 30.000 rpm)
(offer Stereoscopic Microscope Code 192A)
PILLING
Standard Cotton Fabric Worsted
Fabric
Photographs (no standards) (Optional
Swiss
Pilling)
SM 54 for Knitted
(wool)
SM 50 for Woven
(wool)
ENPA