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Introduction How use this book Part. 1 foundation Chapter 1 why nails? The advantages to the client Nail extensions: some common names The different nail systems Acrylic nails Fiberglass nails Gel nails Common techniques Why be a nail technician? Chapter 2. Introduction to home learn Why home learn? The practice problem Your perfect model: the nail trainer. Your perfect teacher: on video Getting qualified Chapter 3. Gel nails. Getting ready to learn The products: what they are and what they do Cuticle massage oil Tip glue Nail polishes Top coat
Nail tips Nail sanitizer and cleaner Extender nozzles Gel Your tools: what they are and what they do. UV light box The buffer The nylon brush Files Nail dippers Cotton pads Kitchen towels Orange wood or birch wood sticks Three way buffer Chapter 4. The nail trainer When to use the nail trainer Parts of the nail trainer Finger tip parts Setting up to practice The practice area The desk clamp Positioning the nail trainer The natural nails The different nail shapes Fitting the natural nails Positioning the natural nail Adjusting the nail bed depth Removing completed nail work
Separating nail from tip Refitting the tip sheath Working on the fingers Working on the thumb Care of your nail trainer Cleaning Replacement parts Accessories tips and ideas simulate broken nails electric files progress cards the essential techniques progress card the whole hand practice card how you learn: run, repeat, read & review time management and practice regime setting up to practice answer tost paper 1, tools products & systems chapter 5. salon skills attitude and personal appearance preparation and your surroundings client consultation manners and courtesy your colleagues ethics retail sales answer test paper 2, salon skills chapter 6. chemicals, hazards and safety procedures
understanding health hazards. Safe use of nail tools The file The buffer block The brush Cuticle knives The electric file The UV lamp Know your nail products and chemicals Inhalation, absorption and ingestion Extension tip remover Acrylic primer Nail polish remover Gel prep and residue remover. Accelerator Acrylic liquid Acrylic powder Nail adhesive Filing dust A quick guide to understanding the risks! A quick guide to working safely with nail products Storage of chemicals Disposal of chemicals Extension tip remover Nail polish remover Gel prep and residue remover The chemical reaction The nail systems
Acrylics Gels Fiberglass Answer test paper 3, chemicals Health and safety procedures Hygiene Disease and bacteria Infection How infection occurs Minimizing infection Sanitation Disinfection Sterilization Other nail tools
Chapter 7. the nail The part of the nail The matrix The eponychium The proximal nail fold The cuticle The lunula The perionychium The nail grooves The distal grooves The hyponychium The nail bed Different nail shapes
How the nail grows Chapter 8 common nail diseases Disorders and contra actions Disorders of the nails Disorders that must not be serviced by a nail technician Bacterial infection Paronychia (paro-nik-ia) Onychia (oni-komi-ko-sis) Onychia (on-nik-ia) Onychogrypasis (oni-ko-grey-pasis) Onycholysis (oni-kol-i-sis) Onychocrptosis(oni-ko-krip-toh-sis) Onyychomadesis (oni-ko-mad-esis) Onychatrophia (oni-chat-troh-fee-ah) Psoriosis (sa-ria-sis) Disorders that may be serviced by a nail technician Bruised nail Corrugations Discoloured nails Eggshell nails Habit tic Hong nails Koilonychia (kol-on-ik-ia) Leukonychia (loo-kon-ik-ia) Onychoclasis (oni-cho-klas-is) Onychauxis (oni-kik-sis) Onychophagy (oni-kof-aji) Anychorrhexis (oni-kor-rek-sis)
Pterygium (te-rij-ium) In case you are not sure! Contra action Pre-service checklist Answer test paper 4, parts of the nail and the pre-service rules. Part 2. Essential techniques Chapter 9. basic techniques Filina Grips and positions The file grips The correct sequence The corresponding finger positions Combining positions and grips Groove positions and grips First joint position and shape grip Side positions and grips Free edge position and grip Practising the positions and grip Practice regime
Chaapter 10. Six steps to perfect gel nails How you will learn Initial speeds Step 1. Removing nail polish Acetone based polish remover Step 2. Preparing the natural nail Object of the exercise The procedure
Equipment and product required Clean the nail with gel preparation Push back the cuticle Removing the shine To key or not to key? Dust Salon speed demonstration Salon target speed Practice regime Answer test paper 5, basic techniques and preparing the nail. Step 3. Nail tipping and blending Object of the exercise Nails tips How are tips made? How to choose a nail tip Applying a tip The procedure Equipment and product required Choosing the correct size of tip Shaping the free edge Sizing the tip`s width Cleaning the tip`well Tip adhesive Applying adhesive to the tip Judging the correct amount of glue Burp the bottle Placing the tip on the nail; the correct angle Rotate the nail and look out for air pockets
Problems sticking on tips Glue setting times Cutting the tip Streamlining the edges of the tip Shoping the free edge Free edge shpes Thinning the free edge of the tip Blending the seam Blending the centre of the seam Blending the left side Blending the right side Fine blending Salon speed demonstration Suggested practice regime Answer test paper 6, nail tipping. Step 4. The gel overlay Object of the exercise The procedure Equipment and product required Cleaning Acetone problems Application 1. The bonding layer The power of light boxes Cure application 1, the bonding layer Remove the hand from the UV lamp Application 2. The building layer The correct shape Cure the second layer
Checking the shape Why is the cured gel still sticky? Remove the sticky residue Salon speed demonstration Practice regime Step 5. Finishing The correct shape To file or not to file? The procedure Equipment and product required Tidy Smoothing the nail Smoothing the top Smoothing the middle/left Smoothing the middle/ right Buffing Dust the nail The final application of gel Cure the final layer Remove the sticky residue Streamlining the left edge of the nail Sreamlining the right edge of the nail Final check of the free edge shape Clean your brush Buffing to a high shine Applying cuticle oil Keys and money Clean hands
Salon speed demonstration Salon target time Practice regime Answer test paper 7, the UV gel overlay Step 6, polishing The object of the exercise Base coats Nail strengtheners/ hardeners Ridge fillers Nail polishes Which colour? Type 1 spring colouring Type 2 summer colouring Type 3 autumn colouring Type 4 winter colouring The procedure Equipment and product required Mix the polish Lood the bursh with polish Polish perfect nails Topcoat Interlocking Other tips on polishing Salon target speed Suggested practice regime Anwer test paper 8, finishing and polishing Part 3. Working the whole hand Chapter 11. creating your first set of 5 nail
The procedure Using the light box on the whole hand Time Click the nails into the nail trainer The maintenance nail Working on the hand Preparation Tipping Apply the bonding and building layer of gel Finishing Polish Practice regime Test results, your ENP certification and route to further skills What happens if you fail? Putting it all together What to do next Maintaining nail extensions Acrylic tip and overlay nails Acrylic sculpting Fibreglass Airbrush nails Part 4. Maintaining gel nails Chapter 12. defining the maintenance tasks Rebalancing What is rebalancing? The procedure Pre-service Remove any lifted product
Re streamline the side walls left and right Reshape and shorten the free edges Smooth the re greowth ledges Move the crown back Clean awaythe debris Apply antiseptic Apply gel nail prep Apply first thin layer in regrowth area and cure Buikd the crown and cure Shape the nail, if required Buff nail Dust away the debris Apply final thin, sealing layer of gel Apply cuticle oil Clean nails Polish, top coat or buff as required Cracks in overlays Some common causes Tips stressed Poor adhesion of product. Repairing cracks Lifting overlays What is a lifting overlay? Why do enhancements lift? Cleaning Remove cuticle and pterygium completely Dehydroting Avoid contamination by finger oil
Avoid product contamination Make your first gel application thin Avoid long immersion in water Mechanical shock Make the overlay thin at the cuticle Keep the product off the sking How to repair lifting overlays When to start ofresh Use of nippers to remove lifted product Repairing chips in the free edge Removing nail enhancements Bad reaction A fresh set The latest thing in nails Bad workmanship How to remove gel enhancements Soaking off. The tools and products you need The procedure Chapter 13. practical maintenance. Gels Initial inspection The procedure Complete pre-service Clean up re-tip the thumb and index finger Rebalance the remaining three nails Application of thin bonding layer to thumb and forefinger.
Introduction
Welcome to "Essential Nails, a practical guide to creating great nails". This is the companion book to the "Home Learn Gel Nails" course and will provide an invaluable reference as you work through the course as well as provide addittional information that is not covered in the video. although written specifically for the video based nail course, it provides a wealth of information about the art of nail enhancements whether you are a student, a professional or just curious.
Part 1, "Foundation", which provides you with general information on working in the nail industry, in a salon, from home or as o mobile Nail Technician. It'll tell you about the different nail systems, how they work and the tools ond products you'll be using to service your clients. You will learn about the natural nail and about same of the diseases and problems that affect it, you'll learn the correct way to deal with your clients and the importance of good hygiene.
In Part 2, "Essential Techniques", you'll learn the basics of the Nail Technicians art: how to file correctly, how to prepare the nail and apply and blend a tip. How to apply an cure the Gel ond finally how to finish and polish the nail.
In Part 3, "Working the Whole Hand", you'll learn about practising for speed and efficiency in the salon and working on different shapes and sizes of nail.
In part 4, "Maintaining Gel Nails, you'll see how to provide the common maintenance tasks such as rebalancing and in-fills, as well as how to repair lifting, cracked and chipped enhancements.
Part 1. Foundation.
In this part you will learn useful background information about the nail industry, nail physiology and diseases. You'll find out obout the salon environment, and how to safely handle the tools products and chemicals you'll encounter.
All of the above are phrases used to describe what a Nail Technician does when she creates a set of nails, they all pretty much mean the same thing: The clients natural nail is extended by gluing on a plastic tip or by sculpting an extended free edge with product. Then the extended nail is covered with more product (Gel, Acrylic or Fibreglass) and shaped with files and buffers. Finally the nail can be decorating with polish or other materials if required by the client. For clarity we use the phrase 'nail enhancements' to mean any treatment to the nail to extend or cover the nail with product, this is then split into three sub treatments:
Natural nail overlay: where the natural nail is not artificially extended in length.
Product is applied over the natural nail to protect the natural nail or to correct a defect. Tip and overlay: where the natural nail is mode longer by gluing on on extension Tip
and then both the natural nail and extension is covered with product. sculpted nail: where the natural nail is made longer by sculpting an extension purely
Acrylic Nails.
Also commonly known as 'liquid and powder'. Acrylic Nails is the original nail system, the techniques emerged in ihe USA about 25 years ago and still the most popular system there. Acrylics come in two parts : a powder (called o polymer) and a liquid (called monomer) that you mix together on a small brush. The resulting paste con be applied over a nail extension or sculpted over a 'nail form' to extend the natural nail to the desired length and shape. After a few minutes the paste sets hard and files and buffers are used to finish and polish the Acrylic to a high shine. Acrylic powders come in different colors and a popular method of creating a dazzling 'French manicured' look is to apply pink and while Acrylic to the body and free edge of the nail respectively. The advantages of the system is that the nails are strong, thin and natural looking, the paste can be used to easily correct misshapen nails and repairs and maintenance are relatively straightforward. The disadvantages are that they have a strong odors that many people object to, they are the most difficult of the three systems to master and there is currently o debate within the EU os to whether one of the constituent chemicals is safe. This has effectively stifled the demand for acrylic nails in some EU
Fibreglass nails.
Fiberglass nails, are also known as 'silk nails' or 'wraps'. After lengthening the natural nails with a plastic tip, strips of fiberglass ore laid over the nail and bonded onto the nail using a fast setting resin. More layers of fiberglass ore added to increase the strength of the nail as required and more coats of resin are added to produce a perfect finish. The resin soaks into the weave of the fiberglass and makes It invisible. The advantages of fiberglass nails are that they are thin, light and natural looking, there is little odors (although, as with all nail enhancements, ventilation is required) and are easy to remove, leaving the natural nail almost completely untouched. The disadvantages are that it's fiddly for beginners and some products require a spray-on 'activator' which means masks must be worn by the Nail Technician and client.
Gel nails.
Gel nails are similar to Acrylic nails except that the paste is already mixed and cames in a single small pat. It's applied to the nail with a small brush just like Acrylics, but is hardened by exposure to ultra violet light. The advantages of Gel nails is that the Gel is easy to apply, has no odors (but you still need to work in a ventilated area), looks natural and has a high shine. Some of the disadvantages are that they are not as strong as Acrylics and are harder to remove and repair.
Common techniques.
It's too much to attempt to learn all three systems at once. There simply too much information to absorb. Most Nail Technicians start with one system and then learn the others later. Many of the techniques you learn for one system are common to all three, for example sanitation, preparation, tipping, blending and polishing. So, you'll be well on the way to learning all the systems by the time you've completed your initial course.
One thing is certain, every Nail Technician in the world, no matter how successful she is now, started by enrolling on o beginners nail course and went from there. Once you start doing nails, the sky is the limit, you can spend a lifetime learning new techniques and following or creating nail fashion.
You'll be surprised the amount of activity in the 'Nail world' once you've been along to see one of the Nail and Beauty shows. There you will find a constantly evolving range of new tools, products, demonstrations, competitions, designs and ideas. The next time there's a show in your area, go along and have a look, you'll be hooked.
Maybe you'll be one of those Nail Technicians who has their designs on the front of a magazine, or wins nail competitions, or is good enough to work on pop stars nails, or demonstrates on manufacturers exhibitions stands, or sees the world working on holiday cruise ships.
Most Technicians practiced on their family or friends, usually it's mum that helps out.
She would sit there all day as her daughter spent hours and hours fiddling with product, making painful filing errors, and gluing poor mum's fingers together!. Ultimately, mum would wisely refuse to be used as a model ever again.
Maybe the local salon would let Tracey do half-price treatments while she's learning. Well, customers can be very intimidating, especially if the student is making mistakes, which is inevitable while learning. Also salon clients, your friends and family are your first potential paying clients, the very people who should only see your best work, not your worst!
If you practice at home, the temptation to have the TV on to relieve the boredom for your model is overpowering. But how can you concentrate with such distractions?
People are happy to have their nails done when you are skilled, but you can't get skilled because people won't let you practice on them Until The Nail Trainer was invented, most student Technicians could not practice enough and simply give up altogether, loosing all the time and money. They had invested.
The Nail Trainer now being used widely in the classroom to train absolute beginners. it mean that teacher has complete control over the pace and content of the learning process, the teacher is not constrained by the health and safety of the models, if necessary the student can practice on the same nail over and over and over again until she gets, it right, something that is complete impossible on a live model. Do you want to see how thickly you have applied the Gel? Simple, remove the nail trainer`s nail an cut it in half. Try doing that on a live model learning and experimenting using the nail trainer , the student only ever starts work on a live hand, after she is acquired the skills to successfully complete a full set.
Cuticle massage oil. This perfumed oil comes in a small bottle and is dispensed by squeezing the rubber bulb in the cap. it's rubbed into the nail and surrounding nail wall and cuticle to keep the skin soft and supple.
Tip glue. Tip Glue is used to fix the nail tips to the natural nail. It's a fast setting cyanoacrylate resin, and you only need a tiny amount on each tip. There are various formulations of the glue, some runny some thick, some are applied form a tube, others come is a small bottle like this one.
Nail polishes. Nail Polishes come in thousands of colures and finishes and usually the client will choose her own color. There is a small brush inside the bottle which used to apply the polish to the nail.
Top coat. Top coat is a clear sealer applied over the colored polish to seal and protect and to produce a high glass finish on the nailNail tips. Nail tips are used to lengthen the front - or free edae of the natural nail. They come in many shapes, le and sizes, you get a selection of tip with the gel course which have been chosen to fit The Nail Trc nail. There are many more sizes shapes and styles available . you'll get to know more about them ar their uses later in the course. Nail sanitizer and cleaner. This liquid does three jobs. It sanitizes and dehydrates the nails surface before application of tips and also removes the sticky residue left after curing the Gel. It has been supplied to work specifically with the Ego Gel and The Nail Trainer. This particular product is not recommended for use on real nails, as it works best on the plastic. When you have finished training you will need The Ego Edense, which is designed for use on real nails. Some Gel systems have separate liquids for sanitation, dehydration and for removing the Gel residue after curing. If you swap brands, always check with the manufacturer or other Technicians using the products before assuming that the application is the same as you are used to.
Extender nozzles.
Extender nozzles are replaceable nozzles for your glue bottle. These are disposable items, as you dispense the glue they gradually get blocked. Use a new one for each client as the replacement cost is low. Gel The Gel supplied in the Home Learn course is a bonding, sculpting and finishing formula in one. It forms the hard protective and decorative shell over the extended nail. Do not expose the Gel to sunlight, or leave it near your UV light when its on or it will go stiff and useless. You should be aware that other Gel systems may have three different Gel products to bond, build and coat. Always follow the manufacturers instructions if you swap brands.
Safety Advice The edges of the buffers are sharp, you must blunt the edges with a file before use, or you may well cut your client when you use them. Hygiene Advice To prevent spreading inflection between clients, either throw the buffers away after use or bag and label them for future use only on that client.
The nylon brush. The nylon brush is used to apply and shape the layers of Gel over The nail's surface. This is your no I look so take very good care of it,
The cuticle pusher. The cuticle pusher is used to gently push back the cuticle off of the nail and to remove any cuticle adhering to the nail surface. You cannot apply product to the cuticle, only to the nail surface. Cuticle pushers are made of wood, plastic or metal.
Hygiene Advice To prevent spreading infection from one client to another, either throw the cuticle pusher away after use if it's wooden, or sterilise it if it's metal or plastic.
Manicure brush. The manicure brush is used to dear dust off of the fingers and nails after each filing process.
Files. We supply three different files for Gel. The 'coarse' black file is 100 grit on one side and 180 on the other, the white 'medium' file is 180 / 180, and the yellow 'fine' file is 240 / 240. The lower the number, the more coarse the file or butter is, so 100 grit will file away material quickly, but leave big scratches on the surface, 250 will remove material slowly and leave the surface nice and smooth, you will see where to use the various files later.
Safety Advice The edges of files are sharp, you must blunt the edges with another file before use, or you may well cut your client when you use them. Hygiene Advice To prevent spreading infection between clients, either throw the files away after use or bag and label them for future use only on that client.
Nail clippers. Nail Clippers are used to shorten the tips after they are glued to the nail.
Cotton pads. Cotton pads are used to apply any liquid to the nail during the enhancement process. You should always use 'lint free' pads that will not leave fibers on the nail after use. The pads are used to apply cleanser, alcohol, polish remover or antiseptic. You only ever use each pad once and then throw is away.
Kitchen towels. It's very useful to have a clean kitchen towel permanently on you work area. After each process of the nail build you can dispose of it and any dust or product on it, and replace with a new one. This drastically reduces the amount of dust and fumes in the atmosphere, keeps your work area clean and fosters a professional image. They do not cost much, so it's well worth it.
Orange wood or birch wood sticks. These thin, soft sticks are used to gently prise old product of the nails surface during maintenance.
Three way buffer Although this looks face a file, it is actually a buffer .it is have three very fine grits, black being the coarsest, white being medium and grey being very fine indeed. It's only use is to bring up the surface shine on the nail.
Hygiene Advice Throw orange wood, birch wood sticks and 3 way buffers away after use or bag and label them for use next time for that client. Never use an orange stick or three way buffer on more than one person, why not give them to yours as a gift for their own use
Setting up to practice.
The practice area. You should find o comfortable chair and small table. Ideally the size of the table should be similar to the compact tables used in salons. position your chair on one side of the table.
The desk clamp. On the end of The Nail Trainer flexible arm is the desk clamp .This will clamp to any desk edge with a maximum thickness of 50 mm (2 inches). Open the jaws of the desk clamp by rotating the thumb screw anticlockwise.
Positioning The Nail Trainer. Clamp The Nail Trainer to the opposite Side of the table, slightly to your right (The Nail Trainer is a model of a left hand, so it should be presented to you slightly from the right). Tighten the clamp by rotating the thumb screw clockwise until it grips the desk securely. Make a curve in the flexible arm so that The Nail Trainer hand is located in front of you. Making a curve in the arm allows you to move The Nail Trainer hand towards you or away from you as necessary.
The natural nails. The natural nails mimic the different shapes and sizes of nails found on hands in real life. You choose the shape you want to work on and fit it to the finger of your choice. The Nail Trainer, when unpacked from the box is fitted with a selection of natural nail sizes, fitted in various positions and depths on the finger tips. During the first part of the Home Learn course you work on the easiest' of the natural nail shapes fitted on the easiest finger. This is the number 13 natural nail, which will not need too much preparation to take a tip. It is fitted to the ring finger, which is the easiest to work on. You should work on this finger, refitting the same size nail to the finger until you are happy with your work. Later on in the course you will work on the other nail shapes.
There are five natural nail shapes included with The Nail Trainer. The shape and size of the nails have been chosen to present a variety of problems and difficulties to you during your practice sessions.
no 6 4/10
no 9 4/10
no 13 3/10
no 18 7/10
no 8 8/10
The no 13 nail is the easiest; it does not need much filing and is nice and symmetrical. The number 6 nail is slightly harder, the long free edge makes it ideal for practicing airbrush and nail art. The number 9 is the widest nail, it is fitted to the thumb and is quite an easy nail to work on. The no 18 'maintenance' nail has a 'regrawth' area at the cuticle and a chip on the free edge. You can practice filling the regrowth area, repositioning the crown, thinning and reshaping the free edge or repairing the chip. The small number 8 nail can be embedded in a deep nail bed to mimic a chronic nail biters finger, this is a tricky nail to work on as file access is difficult.
Fitting the natural nails. Any of the natural nails can be fitted to any of the fingers or the thumb. Obviously the larger nails look more realistic when fitted to the thumb and the smallest to the little finger, but there is nothing to stop you fitting the smallest nail on the thumb to imitate a chronic nail biter with fat fingers. Positioning the natural nails. position the natural nail over the aperture in the top of the tip sheath and click down one click (FIG1) and slide to the front or to the rear of the finger tip (fig2)
do not have too much free edge or the nail will pop out when you file.
Adjusting the nail bed depth. Click down once more for a shallow nail bed, continue to press and click down to form a deeper nail bed. The easiest way to do this is to place the finger on the table surface and press the nail down from above. We suggest you practice on some nails at 2 clicks deep and some at 3 clicks, some at the front and some at the rear of the finger tip.
Refitting the tip sheath Refit the tip sheath on the nail retaining frame by sliding it back on the way it came off.
Working on the fingers. The fingers move in a similar way to the joints of a real hand. While you are working on a nail, hold the underside of the finger with your left hand (assuming you are right handed) and work on the nail with your right hand. Rotate the finger and hand as required to access different parts of the nails surface with you tools.
Working on the thumb. Rotate The Nail Trainer about the wrist so the thumb nail is uppermost . Caution: you cannot rotate the hand at the wrist by twisting the thumb as you would with a live model, normally the model would rotate her hand herself lo follow the twisting. The Nail Trainer cannot do this!
Care of your Nail Trainer. With appropriate care The Nail Trainer will give years of service, all parts are easily replaceable should they become damaged or scruffy.
Cleaning We recommend that The nail Trainer is washed In warm soapy water at the end of each practice day. Acetone can be used to remove excess product from The Nail Trainers surface. The rubber tip sheaths can be wiped over with acetone of nail polish remover, but you should avoid total and continuous immersion as this will damage the surface. Replacement parts. All the fingers, the thumb. Nail Retaining frames and other parts can be removed and / or replaced. Should you require spare parts for The Nail Trainer please contact us. Accessories As you use The Nail Trainer you may need extra natural nail and possibly more adhesive, finger and thumb tips. The rate at which you use them it obviously dependent upon your own work rate and in the case of the finger tip sheaths, how accurate you are with your filing and application of resines. We have the following packs of parts available ! NTA3002 - Refit Nail Pack consisting of 100 natural nails (20 of each site). NTA3003 Standard Finger Tip pack (4 fingertips, 1 thumb tip). NTA3005 - Nail Trainer adhesive. AC 102 Nail Trainer Acrylic primer ACIOI Gel prep and residue remover(Nail Trainer use only). PR029 - NaJ Trainer user manual. PRO20 & PR023 - Progress cards.
The essential techniques progress card You only use one nail shape on this card, in the home learn course it will be the number 13, but other training organizations may instruct using a different nail shape.
In the right hand top corner are some tick boxes where you should indicate which nail system you are learning. The cards can be used for any system
At the top is a place for your name and address and the training organisation you are enrolled with if you are using the nail trainer in a classroom
Across the top are the nail numbers you are working on, the card holds 10 nails. Down the left side is the description of each step of the nail build. Step 2, preparation, through step 6, polishing.
Although there are 6 steps you go though to build a nail enhancement, we skip the first step (removing nail polish) as far as the card is concerned, only saving two nails at step 2 through 6. The steps are: 1. Removing nail polish (if there is any). natural nail. 3. Nail tipping. overlay. S. Finishing. 6. Polishing. 4. Applying the 2. Preparing the
This cord is used during part two of the Home Learn course 'Essential Techniques' where you are learning the basic skills of how to build nail enhancements, you are instructed on the video to prepare 10 number 13 nails.
You save two of them, the first and last nail, in position 1 and position 10 and you write down the amount of time it took you to prepare each of the saved nails.
You then have 8 nails left. You tip and blend them just as you see on the video, and again save two of them, the first and last, in positions 2 and 9, again noting the times.
The remaining 6 nails you overlay with gel and save them in position 3 and 8. The next 4 nails, are finished with your files and buffers and are saved in positions 4 and 7. The last two nails ore polished and saved in positions 5 and 6.
When the card is complete it provides a unique record of your competency at each stage of the nail build. When it is returned for examination we can see exactly how you have built the nail, how good you are and where you are making mistakes.
This way of working is far superior to working on live models, where each step is covered up by subsequent layers of gel and polish and your nail work walks out the door on the end of a finger, or is soaked off, never to be seen again. By working on The Nail Trainer and saving your work you will have a unique record of your competency and steadily improving standards as you gain experience through practice. On the right hand side of the card are 10 boxes which our tutors will fill in when they mark the card Next to the boxes is a brief description of what the examiner is marking on any particular step, a maximum of two points con be allotted to each criteria. the highest possible mark for the card being 20 points.
The Whole Hand Practice card This card is used when you are practicing on the whole hand, on different fingers and different nail shapes and sizes. Across the top you should enter your name and address, and nail system you are learning (Gel, fiberglass, Acrylic etc). The card has positions for 30 nails in six sets of five nail shapes. The card's purpose is keep a record of your improving nail skills and quickening speed As you work through 60 sets of nails. In the Home Learn course it is used in part 3: 'Working the whole hand', where you are instructed to click in the five shapes to the five fingers of The Nail Trainer, size 9 nail in the thumb, size 6 in the index, size 13 in the middle, size 18 in the ring and size 8 in the pinky finger. You then work through the whole hand, just as you would on a live client and at the end save all five nails on the card, noting the time it took you to complete the set in the boxes on the left hand side of the card. You only save every tenth set you complete, and by the time you've completed 60 sets, and saved the
on the card you will really see a difference in quality between the fist set and the last set you completed. You should see your times improving to about 45 minutes a set.
On the right hand side of the card are five boxes for each set of nails, this is filled in by our tutors when they mark your work. They are looking for a high standard in the following five categories: Thickness. The overlay should be the correct thickness at the crown, cuticle and free edge. Apex. The apex of the nail (high point of the arch) should be in the right place and should form a nice curve back to the cuticle and forward to the free edge. Free edge. The free edge should be nicely shaped and thin. Consistency. The five nails should be o set, looking like brothers and sisters, having the same overall style and shape. Surface. All the nails should have smooth, shiny and nicely curved surfaces. Each of the above categories has o maximum possible mark of 2, or 10 marks per set, 60 for the card. 8oth cards are marked and returned to you with any comments the tutor have made about your work.
Setting up to practice. It's ideal if you can set up your nail equipment in a separate room, away from the daily hustle and bustle of family life. Find a small table, camp The Nail Trainer on the opposite side of the table and position the hand in front of you. Arrange your product and tools to your right and your right box to your left. Have the TV opposite you and use a video player with a remote so you can easily pause and rewind and place a kitchen towel under The Nail Trainer. You'll also need a clock, so you can make a note of the time it lakes for you to complete each step, and a rubbish bin with a top that can be closed. The lid helps trap fumes from discarded towels and cotton pads. Time management and practice regime. Building nails looks easy. For a skilled Technician it is easy, purely because they have been practicing for years! As a beginner you are learning new skills which involve fine control of tools and products. The difference between producing a perfect nail as opposed to a horrible misshapen one can be a single wrongly placed stroke of the file. You have to acquire accurate eye to hand coordination and develop an eye for what looks 'right'. You may remember how difficult it seemed to drive a car, press the clutch in, select a gear, look in the mirror, accelerate, let the clutch up, release the Hand brake, steer. It seemed overwhelming at first,but now you drive away without thinking about it at all. It took instruction, but mostly it took practice. You're teaching your muscles to move in a new way and they take time to learn. The good news is, if you persevere d they will learn, and in a few months you'll be chatting to your clients as you build their nails, almost automatically, without thought, Learning is hard work, most things that are worth doing require effort, but it is fun and you'll get a great sense of satisfaction when you see the standard of your work improving.
You need to get into the frame of mind to learn. Each time you sit down have at least one hour put aside for uninterrupted practice. Work hard for that hour, then give yourself a break and come back to it later. Don't push yourself to the point of frustration. Be critical of your work, because your customers will Work at learning the correct techniques and in a few weeks you'll be amazed at your improvement.
To charge premium rates, everything has to be perfect. So the following check list provides the minimum standards you should strive for:
Shower or bathe daily and wear deodorant. Your hair and make up should also be well presented
and long hair tied back so it won't dangle over the work area.
Avoid eating spicy food or garlic and keep a toothbrush and mints with you so that you
can freshen your breath regularly.
Your nails must enhance your standing as a professional. You should wear beautifully
maintained extensions in a style that reflects the preferences of the majority of your clients, but wear them fairly short so they don't get in the way when you're working.
Never smoke whilst performing nail services. As well as being a big health and safety risk
it looks very unprofessional and many clients will object and not use your services again. This also applies to chewing gum which creates a casual impression, the suggestion being that this could extend to the standard of your services.
Preparation and your surroundings. Always be on time and well prepared for your client's arrival. Have your work station smartly laid out and clean even for the last appointment of the day, this will go a long way towards making each client fell special. if you are late and disorganized it will appear that you are not that concerned about them, your work will suffer as you will be stressed and under pressure to catch up. Make sure your tools hove been sanitized and that there are sufficient product supplies on your desk. Review the appointment book at the beginning of the day, recall the clients listed and consider if there is anything special they might need. Some clients will always require more work than others during maintenance treatments, due to their nails or their lifestyle. Have your maintenance tools, including warmed acetone ready in anticipation of this. It can be useful to keep a copy of the days appointments to hand so you can review the treatments coming up without having to go to the appointment book. Preparation and planning are the keys to appearing confident and assured. Client consultation Opposite is a client consultation card that you might see in a salon, it is important to fill in the relevant sections for each client. It fosters a professional image, gives you valuable information on your clients, their treatment histories and possible allergic reactions. Get the clients name, telephone numbers, and address. Discuss the treatment she requires and establish the length, style and shape of nail she prefers. Explain that extensions need care and maintenance to keep them looking good and this needs a commitment from the client. Every two to three weeks she will need to come back for maintenance. Explain about the possibilities of infection and what to look for. Show her the home care rules, and give a copy of which you will give her.
This is one very good reason to work at your technique until it is second nature, so you have time for your clients social needs as well! Never complain to your client or argue with your her, the old adage; 'the customer is always right', still holds true, especially avoid talking about religion or politics, this inevitably ends up in a row! Avoid taking phone calls whilst treating your clients, so switch your mobile off. Taking calls during a treatment simply tells your client that your personal life is more important than her time. She is effectively paying you while you chat on the phone. Communicating. In order to work harmoniously with your colleagues and clients it is important to know how to communicate. Certain guidelines will prove useful. Be clear and to the point when discussing work issues with colleagues. If your client has some concerns listen carefully and answer honestly. If your client wants to know more about her treatment, don't be shy of explaining the procedure, often inquisitive clients who express an interest in what you do are your most valuable clients. The appointment book is the heart of any salon and is should be used as the starting point for building the relationships with your clients. Enter your client's full name, the treatment required, her telephone number and any other relevant details. There will be many occasions when your colleagues will need to communicate with a client in your absence.
Your collage There are some simple guidelines that will ensure that you maintain good relations with your work colleagues. Always have time for their opinions even if you don't always agree, be willing to learn from them, whether you are the newest Technician in the salon or the most experienced. However don't be shy of offering advice, and try to help out if the opportunity arises. Inevitably they will be occasions when you will be asked to do extra shifts so a helpful attitude will be appreciated by all. Avoid borrowing money from work colleagues, it's got to be paid back and if you get into difficulty with the repayment then the resulting tension between you and your colleagues will have an effect on the performance of the whole salon. If you have a problem of any sort, talk it over with your employer, this is always better than grumbling to your colleagues. Try not to take your personal problems to work, if you should have a bad situation and you are not in good shape for work it is best to explain the problem to your employed and take time off. The same goes for illness, struggling in with a cold may appear heroic but unfortunately the usual result is that more people are infected, including your clients. ethics. It is good to be ethical in your dealings with clients and colleagues. For example if a client has requested a certain treatment, carry it out fully without cutting corners, even if time is pressing. If a Technician is off sick and it's impossible to get the shift covered, phone the affected clients and explain the situation. Invite them to reschedule their appointment or, if they would rather keep the appointment, be sure they are aware that their appointment time may slip or that they may be treated by a different Technician. Do not favour any clients, even if they bring you gifts. This is not lair on other clients who are paying the same for your services. Never instigate gossip as this will ultimately drive you away from your colleagues and clients. Stay neutral when you hear a client, or colleague, complain about another Technician. Rarely are things as straightforward as they seem. Never criticize other Technicians to your client, you are criticizing the whole salon if you do this.
When you are offered your first position in a salon make sure you understand the conditions of employment that you are signing up to. If you have a question ask it, don't just keep quiet to be sure of getting the job, once the reason for the condition has been explained hopefully you will understand why it is needed. If you find yourself agreeing to something that you are uncomfortable with, you are only storing up trouble for yourself in the future. Retail sales All clients require additional nail treatments and polishes to protect and maintain thier nails at home. These additional sales are a vital source of income so it's smart to learn how to become good salesperson. This is easier than you think, in fact without realizing it you are selling yourself when you first meet your client, remember, people buy people first! There are three keys to achieving regular retail sales in the salon. The first is to listen, the second is to make it happen, I'll come to the third in a moment. When chatting to your client learn about their lifestyle, not in an obtrusive way, just be aware of the clues they provide. You are not being nosey, you are being a true professional and establishing how you can best service their needs. Are they a keen swimmer? Does their work mean their hands are frequently dehydrated? What are their favorite polish colures? Are they the sort of person that loves trying something new? These are the clues telling you which products your client would probably buy. Now for the difficult bit! You have to make the effort to suggest a certain product would be perfect for them. You don't need to rehearse a fancy sales script, just talk about the product enthusiastically. If it helps you be more natural, pretend to yourself it's free, then your enthusiasm will be infectious! And the third key? You need to do this for every client, not just on an occasional basis. Then the laws of averages will start to work in your favors and you will accumulate significant additional retail sales.
Answer test paper 2, Salon skills. Make yourself a cup of tea and have a go at the multichoise tests 2. For each question none, one, more than one or all the answers may be correct. You'll find the answers somewhere in this book or on the video.
Use these 'five facets' as a mental checklist to help you develop an awareness of the health and safety issues that affect you and your client. Trainees are naturally more likely to cause damage than a skilled Nail Technician. So by making all your early mistakes on The Nail Trainer you are already employing the best health and safety principles. By learning and implementing the following principles you will have no cause to harm yourself or your client throughout your career.
Understanding health hazards There are five main ways in which Nail Technicians or their clients can be harmed through providing or receiving nail enhancements, these are:
Damage through misuse of nail tools. Inhalation of vapour. Inhalation of dust. Absorption of liquids through the skin. Ingestion of chemicals.
None of these need become a problem as long as they are kept under control. For example it is inevitable that both client and Technician will be exposed to vapours and dust, indeed this applies to us all in everyday life and it rarely gives cause for concern because our levels of exposure are extremely low. Problems occur when exposure levels rise to the point when overexposure occurs. As a professional Nail Technician, a vital part of your job is to ensure that exposure levels are kept at o low and manageable level by following sensible precautions and good workplace procedures.
The file.
This is the tool most associated with harming clients and the damage is usually caused in one of two ways. Firstly, with Gel nails and to some extent Acrylic nails it is necessary to use the file to remove an old enhancement. As the hard nail product is filed away it is not uncommon for an unskilled Technician to continue filing even though all the product has been removed. The file is then cutting into the natural nail plate and if continued for too long, great damage will be done to the nail plate. Secondly, damage is caused to the surrounding flesh by inaccurate filing during streamlining, shaping or blending the enhancement. The edges of files are extremely sharp (even after the edges have been blunted, see stripping files and buffers) and if allowed to rub over the surrounding skin can easily draw blood from the resulting v shareped cut or filing graze. Cutting your client in this way is potentially the most serious form of damage as open wounds are an invitation to disease and infection. Both of these accidents are caused by lock of understanding and poor technique on the part of the Technician. Work hard at your file control technique by practicing on your Nail Trainer until your use of the file becomes accurate and effective, thus eliminating the possibility of harming your client.
The buffer block. The buffer is less likely to cause damage as it has a finer abrasive surface than a file so the cutting action is gentler, although just like files the edges are sharp and need to be blunted before use. As the effect of the buffer is quite subtle, some technicians get in the habit of using it too vigorously, which in combination with inaccuracy can cause soreness and redness of the skin around the client`s nail. As with all of your tools accuracy is the key avoiding problems. The brush. Many different nail products are applied with a brush. You have to avoid letting these chemicals touch your clients skin. Most nail products are categorized as hazardous as they are usually either irritants or corrosive. Allowing your brush to contact your client's skin can cause irritation and pain and even start an allergic reaction. Therefore an important aspect of your technique training on The Nail Trainer is fine control of product application to the nail and extension only. A detailed explanation of the health and safety issues relating to the various nail products is provided in the next section. Cuticle knives. These sharp knives are used for cutting away excess cuticle during the nail preparation process prior to applying nail product.
We do not advocate the use of cuticle knives in the Home Learn course, our preferred tool being the cuticle pusher. However you will come across them during your career so it is important to mention them. These knives are very sharp so care is needed not to let your hand slip during use. Should you decide to start using cuticle knives later in your career, here are a couple of tips to help minimize the chances of accidently cutting your client. Always work in a good light so that you have the best possible view of the blade and the cuticle. Whilst cutting, move your client's hand close to you so that you maintain an easy and relaxed grip on the knife. Don't work at an awkward angle. Before using the knife for the first time practice on your Nail Trainer by drawing cuticle shaped lines on The Nail Trainer's fingertips and then using a light pressure practice cutting along these lines. This will familiarize you with the feel and effect of the knife prior to working on a client.
The Electric File. Electric files ore controversial tools. Originally used as miniature drills for industry and hobby markets, their use has been adopted by Nail Technicians in many countries, particularly the United States. The drill bit rotates at high speed and the rate at which the nail product is removed is much greater than with a hand file. It is this efficiency, commonplace amongst all types of electric tools compared with hand tools, that gives the electric file the potential to do a great deal of damage in a short period of time.
There are two main ways that the electric file can cause harm in untrained hands. The friction of the spinning bit on the nail generates a lot of heal so the file must be used with a light pressure and constantly moved across the nail surface to avoid the risk of burning the client's nail. Secondly it's very easy for the drill to skip across the surface of the nail on to the client's skin, causing a bad cut or tear. It is problems like these that have lead to the electric file gaining a bad reputation, though this is somewhat unfair as only on unskilled Nail Technician will cause damage, not the tool! Electric files are safe, useful tools as long as two important rules are observed. Firstly, it is vital that full training is taken and this should be of a very high standard. The Nail Trainer is perfect tool for learning on as the techniques can be practiced to perfection. Secondly, only use electric files recommended by nail companies or responsible beauty trade suppliers. There are many electric files available designed for the hobby market that ore too powerful and unsuited for safe use on nail extensions.
The UV lamp.
People sometimes assume that because the light boxes used to cure Gel emit ultra violet light they possess the same potential for harm as a high powered sun bed. This is not the case as the wavelength of light produced by the tubes in nail light boxes is UVA, which lakes a long while to burn or tan the skin. Sun beds are usually over a hundred times more powerful than nail light boxes, and they emit both UVA and UVB light. It is the UVB light in sun beds that accelerates the tanning process and this can be harmful if overexposure occurs. As long as a modem nail light box is used with 9 watt or lower power tubes your client is not at risk.
Know your nail products and chemicals. Either when practicing at home or working in a salon, you have to know about the chemicals in the products you are using. By learning your art on The Nail Trainer you are already dealing with health and safety in the most responsible way possible. You cannot harm your client through inexperience and you are learning in an environment that enables you to acquire a great technique before working on real people. When we talk about nail products we are mainly referring to the liquids and substances that come in bottles, jars or other containers. Typical examples are acrylic primer, acrylic liquid and powder, Gel, tip remover, nail polish remover, extension tips and nail polish. These are all 'products' as opposed to 'tools'. Most nail products are termed 'hazardous' and they can enter the body in the three ways already identified: inhalation, absorption and Ingestion. Many are also flammable. Inhalation, absorption and ingestion, Absorption is the action of a liquid being absorbed through the skin. Inhalation is the action of molecules of a liquid or other substance being inhaled through the nose or mouth as vapour or dust. Ingestion is the least likely route of entry as it happens as a consequence of tiny particles of product transferring from the Technician's fingers on to food and then swallowed. This can easily be prevented by washing the hands thoroughly before eating.
Some liquid products can enter the body through both absorption and inhalation. This most commonly occurs when liquid is spilled directly on the skin or when handling contaminated tissues or when sloppy brush control causing small amounts of liquid to contact the skin at the side of the nail. The following is a description of the common nail products capable of entering the body either as a consequence of the way in which they are used or due to the chemistry of the product. Bear in mind that this list is not exhaustive and new products enter the market all the time so if you have a product that is not on this list, seek advice from the manufacturer.
When assessing the relative safely of a particular chemical and thinking about the health and safely implications of its use in your work place, we ask ourselves 'what is an acceptable level of exposure to this chemical?' Nail products are safe, as long as exposure is minimized through good working practices. Let`s look at some of the common products and chemicals used in the nail industry.
By only filling the soak off bowl so that the finger tips are just covered you are minimizing the client's exposure level. As the client will only need her extensions to be soaked off once every 6 to 8 weeks this represents a low amount of exposure and is therefore considered to be safe. However, as acetone is an irritant it is possible that a client could develop an allergic reaction. This is rare but does occasionally happen. In this event the course of action is to recommend your client has extensions removed by filing only. Inhalation. Acetone can also enter the body through inhalation. As the acetone evapourates it`s molecules float in the air and are breathed in. With acetone you can smell these fumes, but be aware that some chemicals have no smell, but can still be harmful!. The way to minimise exposure is to remove the fumes from the work area as quickly as possible. Open a window and avoid using acetone in a sealed room, whether at home or in a salon. Be aware that using a fan does not improve ventilation, it simply circulates the air and the air boume fumes.
Acrylic primer.
This liquid is not used for Gel nails, but is common in salons offering acrylic nails. The acrylic primer for use on The Nail Trainer is a very weak formulation of methacryfic acid and water and is suitable only for use on The Nail Trainer. However acrylic primers for use on human finger nails usually contain a high proportion of methacrylic acid. Once again this chemical has a very pungent smell.
This acid is corrosive and therefore an irritant if it comes into contact with skin. If left on the skin it will cause a mild burning sensation and will cause redness.
The primer is applied with a small brush (attached to the screw cap of the bottle) to the natural nail between the end of the extension tip and the cuticle. Acrylic primer is safe as long as it is only applied to the natural nail. This is an easy operation to perform so there is no reason to get the liquid on to the cuticle or skin. If this should happen wash the affected area several times with a cotton wad soaked with water. As long as this is done quickly there should be no harmful effects through absorption. Inhalation. Methacrylic acid produces very strong vapours. This is one of the reasons why acrylic primer is always sold in tint bottles. The opening of the bottle is small allowing the minimum amount of vapour to escape when the lid is off.
Never lean directly over your brush when applying primer as this is the surest way to breathe in the vapour which can result in discomfort lo the nose and eyes. Should this happen move away from the vapour and breathe some fresh area. It is important to ensure adequate ventilation in your work area and as melhacrylic acid is also flammable do not allow any smoking.
Nail polish remover. This is similar to acetone in that it is a solvent and therefore has the ability to dissolve another substance. Nail polish removers commonly contain ethyl acetate and isopropyl alcohol which is also often used to sanitise the nail.
Absorption. The polish is removed by pouring a small amount of remover on to a cotton pad which is then wiped across the surface of the polished nail. Some of the polish remover will touch the client's skin, however this is a very low level of exposure and is therefore considered to be safe. Inhalation. There will be some inhalation of vapour, but this also be low as there is only a small amount of the liquid on a cotton pad. Nail polish remover is generally considered a safe product to use.
Adequate ventilation is advisable and it is highly flammable so do not allow smoking in your work area.
Absorption and Inhalation. As the method of application uses small amounts of the liquid, contact with the skin will be correspondingly low. So as long as it is used in a well ventilated area the risk to health through absorption and inhalation Is low.
Like most solvents Gel Prep is highly flammable so smoking must not be allowed in the work area.
Accelerator.
When building fiberglass extensions the resins are coated with an accelerator in order to cure and harden. Nowadays most accelerator liquids are brushed on to the resin, though 'spray on' accelerators used to be widespread. These were not as good from a health and safety standpoint as the spray would inevitably some land on the client's skin and is easily breathed in. Also if too much accelerator is used a lot of heat is generated as the curing process is over accelerated, causing discomfort to the client.
Use in a well ventilated area, do not breathe in the fine mist generated.
Acrylic liquid. This is not used in Gel nails, only acrylics. When combined with acrylic powder this becomes a soft paste which is used to build acrylic nail extensions. As the name suggests acrylic liquids usually belong to the methacrylate family of chemicals. Inhalation and absorption. The adour of acrylic liquid is the most common smell in the nail industry because in many countries acrylic is the most popular system. The acrylic paste is applied with a brush and like all nail products this should not be allowed to come into contact with the cuticle or the client's skin.
It is the acrylic vapour which is considered the greater risk and inhalation is the most common way for it to enter the body. It is very important that the work area is well ventilated in order to disperse the vapour.
To use acrylic liquid safely a small amount should be decanted from the bottle into a dappen dish. The bottle should then be immediately re-sealed. The dappen dish should have a lid so that it can also be sealed when the product is not being used. Sometimes it is necessary to clean the acrylic brush by immersing it in the liquid and then wiping it on a tissue. When this is done put the used tissue in a metal bin with the lid down. These measures limit the amount of vopour entering the work environment and so minimise the exposure for both Technician and client.
Acrylic powder This is the other component of the acrylic system, used in combination with acrylic liquid. Components of the powder include copolymer and bezal peroxide The liquid and powder come into contact on the brush and the paste is applied to the nail to create the extension. Once the liquid and powder mix the paste begins to harden and it is this hard acrylic plastic that forms the nail extension. Depending on the skill of the Technician, it is usually necessary to file the extension to refine the shape of the nail and of course this produces acrylc dust. Inhalation. Dust is perhaps the Nail Technician's biggest enemy, it is harder to control than liquids as it is very light and can travel in the air. It will not enter the body through absorption but can easily enter through inhalation. This is not likely to cause a risk to health to the client as the exposure only occurs every two to three weeks. It is also not a problem for the mobile Technician as the work environment is constantly changing thus avoiding exposure to a build up of dust over time.
It is the Technician working in a busy salon that should be aware of the correct way to deal with dust. She will be exposed to other Technicians dust as well as her own.
Technicians should consider wearing a face mask and consider the following advise: Wipe down the work surface after every treatment with a damp cloth and then wash this out under a top.
This will remove the dust on the work surface but not the dust in the air.
The only way to do this is to use a clean air system that sucks the dust on to a filter as it is produced, these systems can be portable or built into the tap of a workstation. Using a system such as this is the best way to minimise exposure to dust as it will collect around 80% of the dust produced as long as the filter is changed regularly.
Nail adhesive.
The adhesives or tip glue used for fixing extension tips to the natural nail or building fiberglass extensions are from the cyanoacrylate family of chemicals.
They are also referred to as 'resin' and give off harsh vapours which can cause irritation to the eyes. The Technician should therefore avoid leaning directly over the bottle as the adhesive is being applied. In terms of risk from contact with the skin it is very unlikely that cyanoacrylate will do any lasting harm though it will stick skin together very quickly. Should this happen, wash with soap and water when the adhesive has softened and gently peel apart or soak and de-bond in acetone. The person most likely to be harmed by nail adhesive is the Technician. Some acquire the bad habit of biting off hardened adhesive from the nozzle, sometimes the Technician inadvertently squeezes the bottle at the same time and when the blockage is cleared, fresh adhesive squirts out of the nozzle and into the Technician's eye. As the adhesive hits the eye it comes into contact with the tears around the eye which acts as an accelerator and the eye is subject to the painful effects of the heat generated by the curing process as the adhesive bonds to the eye. Almost certainly the eye will shut a fraction after it is hit by the adhesive, thus trapping the adhesive and bonding the eye shut. If this occurs, do not attempt to force the eyelid open, bathe the eyelashes with warm water so that they can de-bond and release. Do not force the eye open, keep it covered, seek medical advice, and after a couple of days the adhesive will release from the eye and it will open.
Filing dust.
When building fiberglass extensions dust is produced as the shape of the nail is perfect with the file. Follow similar rules to those explained for acrylic filing dust, i.e. make sure you work in a well ventilated area and if possible use a dust extraction system A quick guide to understanding the risks!
Product
chemical name
other risks
Fire fire
fire
Acrylic liquid
Methacrylote
fire
Cyanoacrylote
Accelerator
Alcohol, Alkaline
fire
A quick guide to working safety with nail products. Always read the caution notes on the bottle or packaging. Always read the MSDS {materials safety data) sheets. Always be aware of the correct course of action in the event of an accident. Ensure your technique provides you with the dexterity and control of your products. Vapours can collect behind contact lenses so when treating clients wear glasses. Storage of chemicals. Nail products must be stored and disposed of in a way that minimises the risk of an accident. Many of the products are flammable, and the storage area will contain the highest concentration of products thus making it potentially the most dangerous part of the salon. All nail products should be stored in a lockable metal cupboard, they are quite heavy so make sure the wall and fixings can support the weight. Store the largest containers on the bottom shelf and ensure that all products are clearly labelled. Locate the store cupboard away from general access and direct sunlight and have a work surface nearby so that you can comfortably decant liquids from one container to another without the risk of spillage. Keep the MSDS sheets and suppliers contact details nearby. Keep a first old kit and fire extinguisher in the storage area and learn how to use them! Like all areas of a nail salon adopt a strict no smoking policy.
Disposal of chemicals.
Do not tip chemicals down sinks or drains as many chemicals will melt the plastic plumbing. Dispose of unwanted chemicals as follows:
For Gel, It's the exposure to UV light that initiates the reaction.
For Acrylic the chemical reaction starts when the liquid and powder are mixed together and is accelerated by the heat from the surrounding air and from the finger. The time taken for products to set is controlled by the amount of light, accelerator or heat. Too much and the product will set too fast, too little and the product takes too long to set, wasting time.
All of the chemicals used for building nail extensions come from the acrylic family of chemicals. Acrylic is a common plastic which is used in thousands of consumer and industrial products around the world. One of the properties of acrylic plastic is that it is hard yet retains some flexibility, and this makes suitable for building nail extensions
Acrylics.
This system is also called liquid and powder, the liquid is called 'monomer' which means one molecule. When the liquid monomer is mixed with the powder on the end of the brush the initiator contained within the powder starts a heat reaction. This causes the initiator to split in half creating two molecules called free radicals. Free radicals are molecules in an excited, fast moving state. Each free radical energises a monomer which then attaches itself to another monomer and so a chain is formed. This chain of monomers becomes very Long and is called a polymer. The action of converting monomers to polymers describes the process called polymerisation. For polymerization to von to take place efficiently the room or product temperature must not be too low or a frostlike coating will appear on the surface of the product. Cool temperatures will slow down the polymerisation process allowing the monomer to evaporate before the chains are fully formed, leaving the surface soft and powdery .This problem is commonly called crystalisation, the surface looks white and frosted.
Gel Gel may appear different to the liquid and powder system in that it consists of a one part Gel ready for application with a brush. However, Gel is similar in that the product is also formed fromed chains of molecules, but these are shorter and called oligomers and are formed during the manufacturing process. The initiator for Gel is ultra violet light that penetrates the Gel and provides the energy to convert the oligomers into polymers. The relitively low level of energy provided by the UV light is sufficient to cause polymerisation because it is only required to join the pre manufactured short chains together, rather than form long chains from scratch with individual molecules. For perfect polymerisation to take place the Gel should not be applied too thickly or the UV light will not be able to fully penetrate causing only partial hardening of the product. Fibreglass. The Fiberglass system comprises of a lightweight glass weave impregnated by resin. Like Acrylics and Gels, the resin also comes from the acrylic family of chemicals. It is in fact similar to tip adhesive being a monomer called cyonoacrylate. The resin is applied to the fiberglass strips by either the nozzle of the resin bottle or a brush and if left it will eventually harden in a few minutes. However in the solon, to speed up the process, an accelerator or activator is applied to the resin by spraying or brushing. This contains the initiator that 'kick star` the polymerisation process. As with the other systems, long chains of molecules are formed though they are not as strong as Gel or Acrylics which is why the fiberglass weave is needed to reinforce the overlay. The speed with which resin hardens is influenced by the amount of accelerator used. If too much accelerator is applied, polymerisation will happen too quickly resulting in a cloudy appearance. Low strength and a lot of heat.
The nail salon is potentially the pended breeding ground for pathogens. They like warmth, dark corners, dirt and dust, air movement and human contact! As a professional Nail Technician it is an important part of your job to keep them under control.
infection.
Disease is acquired through infection and there are six main sources: By air, for example via coughing or sneezing By contact with infected blood By bodily contact By eating or drinking By the transmission of semen By insect bite
The sources of primary concern to the Nail Technician are contact with infected blood and bodily contact. There are many diseases that affect the hands and nails and these can easily be passed from the client to the Technician and an again to another client. The common link is the Technician who is also the person most able lo limit transmission.
Minimising infection.
In order to minimise the chances of cross infection, it is the Technician's duty to understand the principles behind good hygiene and to implement and maintain a sound hygiene policy. Broadly speaking hygiene means cleanliness in order to limit infection, and this cleanliness applies lo the Technician, the Technician's tools and the salon or worth place. There are three methods of achieving cleanliness, or decontamination, the aim off all is to eliminate pathogenic bacteria as for as is possible. These methods are sanitation, disinfection and sterilization.
sanitation,
this is the simplest form of decontamination, and will remove the lowest volume of pathogenic bacteria. The most common example of sanitation is washing your hands with soapy water. Sanitation also refers to the many common tasks and practices that must be carried out in the salon in order to maintain good hygiene . these are the main practices to achieve good hygiene: Retail shelving should be cleaned on an ongoing basis but remember that dusting is going to push dust about rather than remove it. Clean shelves with a clean cloth moistened with antibacterial cleaner. Ensure you have enough uniforms so you can wear a clean one every day. Towels should be washed daily Each work station should have it`s own small, metal pedal bin. Remove and replace the dust bag daily as just tipping the debris into another bin will recycle dust back into the salon. If you must have food on the premises, keep it in a clean fridge away from the nail products storage area. Smoking must not be allowed in any part of the salon.
You should not eat at your workstation as the chance of ingesting dust is high. If drinking is allowed on the premises, then it should be in a separate area away from the treatment tables.
Both client and Technician should wash their hands before and after each treatment The Technician's hair should be tied back Other than guide dogs, animals should not be allowed in the salon.
Disinfection.
This refers to the use of disinfectant for the cleaning of non-living surfaces, but not skin or nails. Disinfectant is a substance capable of destroying a much higher volume of pathogenic bacteria than the simple sanitation procedures outlined earlier. Disinfectants are designed to destroy harmful bacteria, viruses or fungus and a suitable disinfectant for the salon will be a single liquid capable of destroying all three. There are many brands available and it is important to carefully follow the manufacturers instructions regarding dilution and application. If the concentration is too weak the disinfectant can become ineffective. Many disinfectants are irritants and it may be necessary to wear protective gloves. The areas of the solon that should be cleaned with disinfectants are furniture, walls, floors and doors. As dust travels to the most inaccessible places the furniture should be moved weekly to allow thorough cleaning. Disinfectant can also be used to clean tools and implements by immersing them for around fifteen minutes. It is important to wash and dry the tools first or the disinfectant will become contaminated and less effective. Be sure lo select a disinfectant that contains a rust inhibitor or your metal tools could become blunt. This information will be on the label.
Sterilisation.
This is the process by which all living organisms on a non-living object such as tools are completely destroyed, leaving it sterile. Nowadays sterilisation of toots is more popular than disinfection. There are two ways of sterilising plastic and metal nail tools: by immersing them in chemicals or by placing them in a machine called an autoclave. In the salon the most popular way of sterilising is to use a sterilisation tray. This is a plastic box which contains a perforated tray. The nail tools are washed with soapy water, rinsed and dried and laid out on the tray. The sterilizing solution, or agent, is poured into the botton of the box and the tray is lowered into the agent. The lid of the box is closed and the tools are left immersed in the agent for about twenty minutes. Sterilizing agent must be prepared according to the manufactured instructions and they can be used several times before needing replacement. The amount of usage pror to replacement will be indicated on the manufacturers instructions. An autoclave is a sturdy, airtight container that sterilises the nail tools by exposing them to the extremely high temperatures of steam under pressure. Autoclaves suitable for salon use are electric and have a programmed cleaning cycle. The steam is produced by heating water stored in the autoclave and at the end of the cycle the pressure must be allowed to return to normal before opening the lid and removing the tools. Autoclaves are an effective way of sterilising tools but they are expensive and for this reason are not as popular as sterilisation trays in nail salons.
Bear in mind that freshly sterilised tools will start to accumulate new microorganisms as soon as they come bock into contact with the salon environment and so the process of sterilisation is ongoing.
The work station is perhaps the Nail Technician's most important asset, it's surface must be cleaned between each treatment and only the tools that are needed for the next client should be placed on top of the desk. Too much clutter on the work surface will slow down the treatment. Wipe down the work surface with a clean wet cloth that is then washed out under the tap. Avoid using a duster as this will just simply push the dust off the side and on to the floor
If your work station contains a dust filtration system be sure to change the filter in accordance with the manufacturers recommendations. If you clean the filter periodically prior to replacing it do this in a way avoids spilling the accumulated dust as this will just reintroduce it to the atmosphere.
The nail walls these are the fleshy ridges that run down the left and right hand sides of the nail The nail plate The nail bed is directlyundermeath the nail plate
The nail grooves at the side of the nail guide the nail plate down the finger The free edge this is White front edge of the nail extending post the end of the fingertip
The smile line is the line formed between the pink of the nail and the White of the free edge
These medical names ate less common, but you may come across them
The matrix This is where the nail is formed and the shape and thickness of the matrix determines the thickness of the resulting nail. The matrix is very soft and any damage to it will mean that the nail may not grow normally again. The eponychium Sometimes miss identified as the cuticle, this fold of skin resides of the back of the nail plate and forms o seal between the out side of the nail plate and the inside of the finger. if this is broken infection can set in, so be carefull with cuticle pushers, never push hard in this area as you can break the seal. The proximal nail fold This is where the nail root is anchored and it is a thick fold of skin. It should never be allowed to dry out, as cracking can occur. Keep it supple with cuticle oil. The cuticle The cuticle works with the eponychium to provide a watertight seal. It's the colourless layer of skin that forms out over the surface of the nail plate growing out from the eponychium and has to be removed to allow nail products to adhere to the nail plate. The amount of cuticle over the nail varies from person to person.
The lunula
Also known as the 'half moon', the lunula is under the thinnest part of the nail and is the visible part of the matrix which is coloured white, hence the lunula is white. Again, this is a soft area of the nail which is easily damaged.
The Pcrionychium.
Nail walls, lateral nail folds or Perionychium are all words for the fold of skin that runs down the left and right hand sides of the nail plate. The skin slightly covers the edges of the nail plate forming a watertight seal.
The Hyponychlum.
Just behind the distal groove is the seal for the front of the nail. Similar in construction to the eponychium at the cuticle end of the nail, it keeps liquids and bacteria from getting under the nail plate.
Bacterial infection.
This condition is often wrongly referred to as mould or fungal infection. On a nail extension, the Infection can occur between the natural nail and a lifted section of the overlay which provides the ideal warm and moist conditions for the bacteria to thrive. It can occur with any nail system and appears green to yellow and block in colour.
Paronychia (paro-nlk-la).
This is a common infectious condition of the tissue surrounding the natural nail caused by many different types of bacteria and yeast such as Candida. The tissue will be swollen and red, quite hard to the touch and pus may be present. The nail can discolour red or black and it is usually very painful. There are several causes mostly relating to habits like picking, biting and tearing of the nails subsequently leading to infection. It is highly contagious.
Onychomycosis (onl-komi-ko-sls). This is an infectious disease that is caused by a vegetable parasite. In it's mildest form, caused by the fungus Trichophyton mentagrophyies, it appears as white patches on top of the nail plate which is soft and powdery. It can manifest itself in a more severe form where the fungus has broken through the proximal nail fold and cuticle and gets under the nail plate. It appears as yellowish streaks in the substance of the nail. In it's most severe form the deepest layers of the nail are affected to the extent that the whole nail is discoloured and infected layers peel off and expose the diseased nail bed. Onychia (on-nlk-ia). This is an infection of the nail plate that can be caused by a Nail Technician or manicurist using unsanitary tools. The base of the nail can appear red and pus may be present. Clients with this condition must be advised to visit their doctor.
Onychogryposis (oni-ko-grey-posis).
This is a condition which causes the nail to thicken and curve and is also known as clawn nails. It Is more common on toe nails where the cause is often badly fitting shoes. If left the nail will grow and curve over the end of the finger or toe and if the nail grows back into the skin inflammation and pain will result. In finger nails the reason for this disorder is thought to be occidental damage to the nail, trauma and hereditary defect.
Onycholysis (oni-koi-i-sis).
This condition can be caused by damage to the free edge, allergy to drug treatments or nail products, trauma or internal infection. The nail separates from the nail bed, starting at the free edge back towards the lunula, but does not come off . Nail will appear white to grey in colour due to the air under the nail, or may be appear colored by a yeast that can grow between the nail bed and
Onychoptosis (oni-kop-toh-sis)
This is a condition where part or all of the nail is shed and comes off the finger. Occurrences are periodic and it can affect more than one nail at a time. Common causes are drug allergy, trauma or reaction to a disease of the body.
Onychocryptosis (oni-ko-hrip-toh-sis).
This condition is more commonly known as in growing nail whereby the nail grows into the tissue at the sides of the nail. It occurs most frequently on the toe nails due to incorrect cutting or badly fitting shoes. It can become extremely painful, infected and can even require remedial surgery.
Onychomadesis (oni-ko-mad-esis).
Most of us have experienced this condition, it describes the reaction of the nail when it has received a hard blow, perhaps by being caught in a door or hit with a hammer! The nail will probably bruise and blacken, it may lift from the base and fall off as the new nail grows out from behind.
Onychatrophia (oni-chat-troh-fee-ah).
This condition is also known as atrophy and it is the wasting away of the nail. The nail becomes dull and starts to break down. The nail looks like it's crumbling away and eventually the remnants of the nail will fall off, it is usually caused by internal disease or injury to the nail matrix.
Psoriasis (sa-ria-sis)
This is a skin disorder caused by excessive cell proliferation. Areas of the skin appear rough and pitted and this also applies to the nail's surface, sometime clients will not be aware that this a medical problem, simply thinking they have rough nails. Other effects are discoloration and extreme pitting Normally the condition is hereditary though it can be brought on by stress and may involve other conditions that cannot be seen.
bruised nails.
The medical term for this is subungual haematoma and although in rare cases it can be caused by blood vessel disease, in most instances it's caused by a blow to the nail. The nail bed is damage and bleeds which leads to maroon discoloration beneoth the nail. The bruise will darken with time and move towards the free edge as the nail grows. Sometimes the nail will fall off as part of the healing process. In mild cases it's OK to apply an overlay, but if the damaged area is large, only offer a basic manicure as the nail is likely to become detached from the nail bed if any other treatment is attempted.
Corrugations.
These are ridges or furrows which run either along the length of the nail or across the width. Ridges which run along the length of the nail are usually a normal sign of ageing however those that run widthways can indicate poor circulation or other illness. The nails are usually fragile, so great care must be token when treating them. Extensions are not recommended but o gentle manicure is acceptable. The high points of the ridges may be lowered by careful filing with a fine grit file and the volleys between the ridges may be filled with ridge filler The nail can then be polished.
Discoloured nails.
This can be caused by poor circulation, a heart condition or the side effects of medication. The nail can turn many different colours including yellow, blue, green, grey and purple. Discoloration can also be an indication of a more serious illness, in any case the curious appearance of the nails can be hidden by polish or extensions.
Eggsshell nails.
These are very thin nails curved at the free edge, that are very fragile and easily broken. The condition can be caused by poor diet, a reaction to medication or a disease of the body. Nail extensions must not be applied though a very gentle manicure is acceptable.
Habit tic.
This condition is caused by the sufferer constantly picking at the soft surface of the nail near the cuticle. The picking causes permanent ridges across the which then travel towards the free edge as the nail grows out. Continued picking will cause the entire nail to be covered with ridges. Often only one nail will be picked, usually on the thumb and you can extension in only if the condition is very mild. Be aware though that the extension is likely to be picked off as the habit will continue.
Hang nails
This is a common condition in which the cuticle or pat of the skin around the nail is split. It is usually caused by dryness or excessive trimming of the cuticle. Regular manicures including application of cuticle oil will improve the condition.
Koilon (kol-on-ik-ia)
This condition describes a nail that is the shape of a concave dish and is also known as 'spoon-nails'. it can be caused by over exposure to certain chemicals such as oils or soaps or by on iron deficiency in the body. In these cases if is possible to effect a cure by stopping the contact with soap or oil or by correcting the person's iron deficiency. However it can also be hereditary in which case a cure is not possible. Given that the concave shape curves in the opposite direction to the well at an extension tip it is not recommended that this type of extension be applied, however a sculpted extension can be applied as a tip is not required.
Leukonychla (loo-kon-ik-la).
This condition is also called white spot and is bruising of the nail plate. It can result from aggressive pushing back of the cuticle during a manicure causing damage to the soft new nail growth. Extensions can be worn.
Onychoclasis (onl-cho-klos-lt).
This is a common condition caused by damage to the nail plate. It's a split at the free edge which may travel past the free edge and over the nail bed. If the split is restricted to the free edge, then the split area can be gently filed away and an extension applied. If the split has travelled past the free edge, there is a danger of the nail bed becoming infected through the crack and extensions must nail be applied.
Onychauxis (oni-kik-sis).
This is the opposite condition to Onychatrophia. The nail is thick and overgrown, which is caused by infection, an internal imbalance or genetic problem. As long as the nail is clear of infection the Technician can treat this condition by gently filing away the excess nail. Suitability for wearing extensions will depend on the severity of the condition and the shape of the affected nail.
Onychophagy (oni-kof-aji).
This is probably the most common condition a Nail Technician will encounter. Commonly known as nail biters, clients with this problem subconsciously chew the free edges and sides of the nail. In severe cases the free edge may be bitten back so severely that the residual nail may be only 25% of it's natural size.
Many sufferers see nail extensions as a good way to hide or stop their habit and often this is successful. However the Technician must carefully consider whether the nails are suitable for wearing extensions. If the skin surrounding the nail is in good condition and not infected, and if there is enough nail remaining on which to attach an extension, then the Technician may provide a set of extensions. However working on badly bitten nails requires great skill from the Technician who must possess sound technique and understanding of the problem. If you are unsure whether to treat bitten nails seek the advice of a more experienced Technician or help the client by recommending another Technician who you know to possess the appropriate skill and experience.
onychorrhexis
This condition describes a lengthwise split along the nails which could be caused by injury, overuse of cuticle treatments or poor filing. it is acceptable to apply nail extensions as long as the split does not extend further into the nail than the free edge.
Pterygium (te-rij-ium}.
This is a mild disorder whereby the cuticle grows forward towards the free edge. it is acceptable for a Nail Technician to help a client with this condition by careful removal of excess culicle.
Contra actions.
A contra action is a reaction to a nail extension treatment. This could occur during the treatment, or appear some time afterwards and may be caused by an allergic reaction to a particular chemical or through the misuse of tools. It is possible for the same contra action to be caused by different chemicals. It is the duty of the Nail Technician to understand and know how to recognise contra actions, so that thier clients can be given accurate advice and guidance.
Pre-service checklist .
Before you carry out any treatment, you should follow a pre-service routine. You will find this routine invaluable in the salon environment.
Pre sterilise. Every day, pre-sterilise your tools by soaking in disinfectant. Wash. You and your client should wash your hand with an antibacterial disinfectant soap. Sanitise. Sanitise each of your clients nails. Client consultation card. Fill out client consultation and or client history card, it will help you to remember the following key items: Establish the service. Ask her what sort of service she requires, explain each service you offer. Nail disorders. Check for nail disorders and ask if she has had any problems with her nails. Allergies. Ask if she has allergies or sensitive skin. Client history. Find out if she has had nail extensions in the past and if she had any problems.
Home core rules. Inform her of the home care rules, explain that extensions do not last forever and that they have to be looked after and maintained. Give her a copy of the home care guide to take home at the end of the service. Problems. Explain about possible fungal problems and how to avoid them and encourage her to see you within 24 hours if she breaks a nail or has any other problem.
In this section you'll learn the practical skills you need to be able to create a fantastic set of Gel nails. take is slowly* and methodically and you'll be amazed how quickly you acquire professional nail skills.
Each grip is used when you file a different area of the nails surface. Used in sequence, you can effortlessly file the entire surface of the nail.
which the areas of the nail are filed. Doing it in this sequence ensures that the nail's shape is well balanced and symmetrical.
You file the left edge first, then when you file the right edge you can copy the completed left edge, so hopefully the same amount of filing and the same shape has been achieved on the left and right. It's the same for the left and right sides. A common mistake is to work across the nail from left to right, during which you'll file more heavily on one side than the other and thus produce a lopsided nail. The corresponding finger Positions. Let's look at how you hold the clients lingers when you ore using the different file Grips.
Right Groove Posilion and Grip. This is an identical process to remove the step between tip and natural nail on the right hand side of the nail. position: You cradle the clients finger with your thumb and index finger as before, but this time use your index or middle finger as a guide for the file. Grip: Hold the file almost vertically as before, but this lime apply pressure to the right hand side of the file, press it in against the tip to streamline the right hand side of the tip.
Right Groove finger position, your indexor middle finger guides the file
The file is always held almost vertically so there is no possibility of filing into the side of the natural nail near the cuticle
First joint Position and Shape Grip. Why do we do it? When the tip is stuck onto the nail there is a step , formed by the end of the tip. This needs to be filed away so it is not visible and so that the tip is blended nicely and naturally into the natural nail. You would also use this Position and Grip if you need to reshape the overlay in any way. Position: The First Joint Position allows access to the centre of the nail from top to bottom and allows you to rotate the clients finger from left to right while filing to prevent flat spots'. You place your thumb, index and middle finger along side of the first joint, which keeps your fingertips clear of the file. Shape Grip: grip the right side of the file between your index and middle fingers and let the left side press up under your thumb. This Grip ensures there is even pressure across the centre of the file.
As you move the file over the nails surface you angle it down of the cuticle
Side Positions and Grips. Why do we do It? After blending the centre of the tip there will be two 'steps' left. One on the left side and one on the right. Also if there are lumps in the Gel you may want to shape and smooth the left and right sides of the overlay. Left side Position: Hold the clients finger tip between your thumb and crooked index finger. You rotate the client's finger sideways to the right and use your thumb to pull down the skin of the left nail wall. This keeps the clients skin clear of the file. Left Grip: Hold the file towards the end and angle it back across the nail. This is the easiest way to get to the left side of the nail. It's also a great grip to use when thinning the tip's free edge.
Right Side Position: Hold the clients finger tip between the side of your thumb and your index or middle fingers. Rotate the client's finger sideways to the left and use either your index finger or middle finger to pull the flesh of the nail wall down, out of the file's way Right Grip: Hold the file at the bottom and place your index finger flat on the file at the top to apply pressure at the contact area.
And pull down nail wall with your index or middle finger
Free Edge Grip: Hold the file at the end between thumb, index and middle fingers. Hold the file at the end so you can use the centre section of the file. Move the file back and forth across the free edge
1. Use the Left Groove Position and Grip to streamline the left edge of the nail. 2. The Right Groove Position and Grip to streamline the right edge. Make the same number of file strokes and use the same pressure as you did on the left side. 3. Use the First Joint Position and shape Grip to file a thick line down the centre of the nail. 4. Make sure this is nice and central, as you use the sides of the line as a guide when you file the next areas. 5. Use the left Position and pull the nail wall clear with your thumb. Hold the file in the left side Grip. Using the left hand side of the central filed line' as a guide, file down the left hand side of the nail. 6. swap over to the Right Position and Grip and smooth down the right hand side of the nail, using your index or middle finger to pull the nail wall dear 7. When you have finished, you should have no ink left on the nail, and you should have only used the five Positions and Grips as defined above.
The best way to learn is to restrict yourself to one step at a time, and for each of those steps: Run the video and watch step all the way through. Repeat the technique on The Nail Trainer while the video is still fresh in your mind and save the nails you have produced on the Essential Techniques Progress card Read further details about the technique in this book. Review your progress by answering the test questions supplied with the Home learn course.
Initial speeds
When you first start, you will feel very clumsy, everything is new and feels strange, don't worry, this is normal. Every Nail Technician feels like this to start with so initially, expect your own times to be 10 to 20 times slower than the 'Salon Speed Demonstrations' and target speeds on the video. Simply accept that this is going to be your speeds to start with and relax, learn the correct techniques and the speed will follow as a matter of course.
Nail polish remover is either alcohol or acetone based, both of which will dry out your and your client's skin. As a Nail Technician, it's you that is at most risk to the possibility of developing a reaction or allergy to these products purely because you'll come into contact with them day in, day out. It's a good idea, especially when you are servicing clients on a regular basis to either use pads with a tab on the back for you to hold, or wear surgical gloves which will minimises the contact you have with chemicals and therefore reduces the likely hood of you developing an allergy through over expo- sure.
A cotton pad is better tan cotton wool
Never use these acetone based polish removers when removing polish from either real nails or The Nail Trainers Nails as this will dissolve the nails, tips, glue and acrylic.
The nail polish remover supplied in some Home Learn courses is Isopropyl Alcohol, which will remove the polish just as well.
The procedure.
You clean and sanitise the surface of the nail with the Gel prep solution. Then push back and remove any cuticle growing over the nail's surface. Then remove any shine with the buffer block. Finally etch the surface of the nail with your file to provide a key for the Gel.
Next you must remove every trace of the surface shine to ensure that the Gel will stick. The easiet way to do this is to use the coarse grit side of a clean buffer block (black). Before you use the block, make sure the edges have been blunted by stripping them with a file.
Select the fine abrasive side and holding it end to end, rotate the block over the nail surface from left to right, then down on both sides. Make sure you get right up the cuticle and into the sides and comers of the nail.
This process also removes any remaining traces of material from the corners and sides of the nail.
Dust .
Finally, dust the nail with the duster brush to remove the Debris, again any dust left on the nails surface will stop the Gel adhering and be visible under the finished Overlay, ruining the look of the nail
Practice regime.
This is where the practice begins and the fun starts! Select 10 number 13 nails and click them one at a time into The Nail Trainer. Prepare them all just as described above. When you have finished, you'll probably find that the time you take to prepare the 10th nail is half that taken for the first. Already you are speeding up. Don't throw the nails away, you will use them all later So we can see the standard of your preparation, save two of the nails, the first one you did and the last one in the slots marked nail 1 and nail 10 on your essential techniques progress card. Make a note of the time taken to complete each nail on the card.
Nails tips.
Before applying a tip, lets have a look at the humble nail lip in some detail.
Be aware that this is not a universal numbering system. A 'number 4' tip from one manufacture will not necessarily be the same size as a 'number 4' from an alternate supplier. They will be roughly the same size, but not exactly. This goes for all the other attributes of the tip as well. You may occasionally come across a large nail for which even the number 0 tip is too small, the only way you can offer this client a treatment is to sculpt the free edge over a form. If you fit a tip that is too wide, the edges will press down into the flesh of your client, causing discomfort. if the tip is too narrow, then the tip will look horrible and be weak at the sides. Side walls. Some tips have straight side walls and others are tapered. Choose the one that best matched the side wall shape of your clients nails. Shape of the contact area. You will see nail tips with differently shaped contact areas. There are three main reasons for the different shapes: 1. Those with a cutout have been designed to minimize the time taken during blending by reducing the amount a material that has to be removed.
2. The contact area should cover no more than 30% of the natural nail, so different sized contact areas are required.
3. The popular white French tip has a small strip-like contact area which is also forms the smile line. You do not blend these tips and the contact area is very small.
Do not press down a deep C curve tip onto a flat nail as this will set up a stress in the tip which may crack later and will feel uncomfortable to the client, as the tip is always trying to 'spring oft' of the nail. Like wise trying to push the sides of a shallow tip onto a deep curved nail risks a problem with poor adhesion and air pockets at the side.
If you find that you have a good match of the 'C curve, but that the tip is too narrow, simply reduce the width of the tip with your file before application.
Stress area. Have a look at the apex of the tip (the highest point on the tip, where the top of the 'C curve and the upper arch intersect). The thickness of the plastic tip should be greatest here, this is point of maximum stress on a correctly applied tip, so therefore needs to be strong. Some cheaper tips save costs by leaving this area thin.
Applying a tip.
Now let's look at the practical aspects of applying a tip. Run the section on video.
The procedure.
First you select the correct size tip to fit the nail. Then shape the free edge of the natural nail to fit the well in the tip. And reduce the width of the tip if its too big. Then clean the natural nail. Glue the tip onto the nail. Cut the tip to length. Blend the top and sides of the tip into the nail. Finally shape the free edge of the tip to the desires of the client
Remember you don't a full range of tip sizes supplied in the Home Learn course, just a selection that will fit The Nail Trainer. We have deliberately chosen lips that are NOT a perfect fit as this will imitate what it is like in the real world, you rarely find a tip that is a perfect fit in every way. So choose a tip that looks about the right shape, we've chosen not to tell you which tip fits which nail as this would be too easy, it's your job to make the decision.
pick a tip that the same width or wider
Shape the free edge to match the curve at the stop point
4. This click is important, it Tells you that the step in the tip's well is located on the free edge of the natural nail.
Rotating the tip in this way pushes air pockets out from under the tip.
Air pockets are visible, white areas under the nail tip.
6.Insieod of locating the free edge up against the stop point in the tip's well, the step is sitting on top of the free edge. This leaves a gap under the tip that the glue cannot possibly fill, the tip falls off when you let go. 7.The other common fault is to leave a gap between the free edge of the nail and the back stop in the tip. This makes for a weak tip and allows dirt to accumulate in the gap Practice positioning the tip up against the free edge and pulling down, listening for the click as the free edge locates in the step. Then rotate, keeping the tip located. 8. Can't get rid of air bubbles. This is due to not quite enough adhesive being applied, or too much pressure being applied so that the adhesive is squeezed out the side of the tip. We sometimes advise our students to practice the gluing operation using cuticle oil. Put a drop in the well of the tip, apply the tip as normal and then try applying different pressures to the tip. You can see the oil moving under tip, if there is an air bubble you can practice applying the correct amount of pressure to squeeze it out. Without the time pressure of having the glue set in 1O seconds. You can play with the oil for as long as you wish.
There are clippers available that shear the tip of in one go, however we do not advise beginners to use these as it is possible to exert a lot of leverage onto the tip while cutting. Using the clippers to cut each side separately transmits for less shock and stress to the tip.
Other than this there are only a few basic shapes you need to learn: square, squoval (a mix of square and oval) or oval. Obviously you can then modify these basic shapes, for example by slightly rounding the edges of the square shape.
The shape of the nail simply depends upon the angle you hold the file. For a square nail hold the vertically.
For a squoval nail, hold the top of the file slightly towards you.
The trick here is to keep the file square to the nail. In other words the file should always be 90 degrees (a right angle) to the centre line of the nail. As you are holding the file at one end, it is quite easy to be accidentally filing at an angle, which produces a lop sided free edge shape.
The other advice is to try and keep the pressure, angle of the file, and number of strokes constant from one nail to the next, in this way you are learning 'repeatability'. Your muscles, eyes and hands will start to memorise the actions required to produce the same shaped free edge time and time again. It's just like a guitarist playing a song, at first he learns the chords slowly, and by practicing the chord changes over on over, at some point he can forget what his hands are doing, they have 'learnt' how to form the shapes needed for a particular song and can be repeated at will to form new songs, This leaves lots of brain power left for singing, jumping around, posing, drinking beer and sleeping with girls.
So to make them look more natural we reduce the thickness of the tip at the free edge. Hold the clients finger using the First Joint Position and the file using the left side grip and use the coarse side of the file. Lift the finger so you can look directly down the barrel of the nail. You want to halve the thickness of the tip, so beginning at the right side, hold the file at a slight upward angle off the back of the nail and file the edge of the tip using gentle, circular movements. Rotate the finger from the right to the left and continue to file until the whole of the edge is pleasantly thin to the eye. Do not 'over file' and make it wafer thin.
Do not file further, or you will be damaging the natural nail. Use most pressure on the upward strokes, as down ward strokes have a tendency to pull the tip up off the nail at the featherd edge.
Use most pressure on the upward strokes, and hardly any pressure on the downward strokes. This makes the best feathered edge.
Don't forget to look between each stroke when the tip starts to thin out, you want to stop filing when a feather edge is achieved.
Fine blending.
You use quite a coarse file to blend the tip because you want to remove the tip material quickly, but this leaves lots of tiny scratch marks which if left will make the final nail look cloudy.
You now need to buff these out using the medium side of the buffet block. The buffet will also help to smooth out any ridges or flat spots creates by your file. Buff the top, buff the tight side and the left side until all the scratches disappear Finally, using the manicure brush, sweep away the filing debris, ready for the first application of Gel.
Salon speed demonstration. This is the part of the video where the 'step by step approach' is replaced by the continuous series of operations that would take place in a salon. Watch the video as Gino runs through the tipping and blending process at normal speed. Choose the correct sized tip. Shape the free edge of the natural nail. Size the tip's width. Brush off the debris. Apply glue to tip. Place the tip on the nail at the correct angle, pull down, click to locate the free edge in the step Rotate the tip, beware of air pockets. Wait for glue lo set 10 to 20 seconds. Cut the tip lo length. Streamline the left edge. Streamline the right edge. Shape the free edge. Thin the free edge. Blend the centre seam. Blend the left side. Blend the right side. fine blending. Dust.
Suggested practice regime. When you try out tipping, take as much time as you need and work through the eight remaining nails that you prepared in step two (remember two nails were saved at the end of step 2). Concentrate on maintaining the correct grips and doing a good job, rather than speed, but note the start and end time for as you tip and blend each nail. When you have finished all 8, save the first and last one you did (nails 2 and 9) on your 'Essential Techniques Progress card' in the step 3 position. Fill in how long it took you to complete each nail, and keep the remaining six nails for the next step.
The procedure.
First, you sanitise and dehydrate the nail with the Gel prep and residue remover. Then you apply the first thin, coating layer of Gel. You then cure the first layer of Gel in the light box. You then apply a second 'building layer' of Gel to add body, shape and strength Cure the second layer. Check the shape for lumps and bumps Decide whether to correct the shape by filing
cleaning
Clean any debris away from the nail's surface with a quick wipe of the brush and sanitize and dehydrate the nail plate by tipping a little Gel prep onto a cotton pad and rub into the surface of the nail. Make sure you get right into the corners and that no dust is left on the nail. Do not use soap and water, the nail surface must be completely dry before application. The Gel prep liquid sanitizes, dehydrates and removes any sticky residue all in one. Check with the manufacturer if you are using different Gel products than those supplied with the Home learn course, you may have separate products for sanitation, dehydration, and cleaning, plus they may require a separate primer.
Acetone problems.
Some 3 in one products contain acetone. Look what happens if you put too much onto The Nail Trainer's nail. Acetone is used to soak off tips, Acrylics, Gels and Fiberglass off real nails, so it's designed to attack plastics. The Nail Trainers nails are plastic, use it sparingly on them. The Gel prep and residue remover supplied in the Home Learn course does not contain acetone, so it's fine for use on The Nail Trainer. If you swap brands check the ingredients of the Gel prep to see if it contains acetone.
Move your brush and Gel away from the lamp while Its on, or the Gel will cure there tool!
You create this by applying the gel thinly at the cuticle Leaving it thicker at the crown
Practice regime
Take the remaining six nails you tipped and blended in Step 3 and apply the two layers of Gel to them. Remover the sticky residue and save two of them, {nails 3 and 8) on your card in the 'Step 4' position, When you send in your completed cards for examination, the tutor will be able to see the quality of your Gel application before you correct any irregularities with your file.
STEP 5. Finishing,
The object of the exercise is to smooth out any lumps or bumps in the overlay, create a pleasing shape, buff to a smooth surface and add a final sealing layer of Gel.
1. If the shape of the Gel is generally OK, but there are a few lumps or it's slightly misshapen, then you correct the shape with your file, using the filing techniques you've already learned. 2. If you've managed to create a perfect shape, you can go straight on to the final Gel layer without any filing. 3. Or, if there's a dip, or not enough Gel on the nail, you can add more Gel. There's no rule that says you have to apply two coats, three coats or six coats. if you're not happy with the thickness or shape of the Gel, and you think that by adding more Gel you can improve it, go ahead. A note here, many people think you can't file Gels Of course you can! In fact unlike acrylics, which can take hours to fully harden. Gel nails are fully cured as soon as they leave the light box, so it's actually safer and easier to file them than Acrylics. The final Gel layer will bond just fine and look nice and shiny.
The procedure.
You use the some filing techniques you learned earlier, but use the white file to remove big bumps, and the yellow file for minor blemishes.
You work over the complete nail surface with your chosen file. Then buff with the fine side of the white buffer block to remove any scratches. You then remove any dust and apply a final coat of Gel to seal and protect Finally you rub in some cuticle oil to rehydrate the nail surround and cuticle.
Remove the sticky residue. When the Gel is cured, remove the hand from the lamp and as before, tip a little residue remover onto a cotton pad and pull forward over the nails surface to remove the sticky residue. Fold the pad over so each wipe uses a clean area of the pad.
Clean hands.
Then ask your client to wash her nails, nail walls, and finger tips, tops and undersides, using antibacterial soap and a manicure brush. Remind her to dry them thoroughly before she returns. This removes any chemicals adhering to the skin that could cause eventually trigger an allergic reaction in the client.
STEP 6. Polishing
The object of the exercise.
After spending so much time creating a perfect nail, it is a pity to spoil it by a poorly applied coat of polish. It's skill that many people find difficult to master because you have to be quick, deliberate and accurate and get it right first time! A blemish free coat of polish will compliment, protect and beautify your nail work, however many of your clients will request the natural look, in which case a coat of clear polish or top coot should be applied.
Base coats
You can, if you wish, apply a base coat prior to applying the final colour polish. Base coats have a different consistency than normal polishes, you will find they are stickier. The idea is that they adhere to the nail more easily providing a key for the colour polish. In our experience they are more effective when used on the natural nail than on enhanced nails, but if you are used to using a base coot, by all means use them on Gel nails. We do not use a base coat in the Home Learn course but the application is the same for base coat as for coloured polish or top coats. Nail strengtheners / hardeners. These are for use only on the natural nail, follow the manufacturers advice on these products.
Ridge fillers
Many peoples nails have ridges running length wise along them, by applying a ridge filler, the valleys are filled in so that when the polish is applied it looks nice and smooth. The liquid is even thicker than base coat and takes a while to set, they are only used on the natural nail, as the process of creating nail enhancements fills in any ridges in the natural nail. Ridge fillers are applied in the same way as nail polishes.
It's all too easy to spoil an elegant set of nails with a garish polish that can make the client look uncoordinated. Some colours can make your customers look radiant and healthy others will make her look sickly. if you want to investigate colour effects mote extensively than why not visit your local library or art shop where you will find a range of books on the subject. We can give you a very rough guide which splits people into four main skin types and suggests colours that compliment, but please be aware that it takes a considerable amount of time and experience to attune your sense of colour.
1.Make your first stroke from just in front of the cuticle, without touching it, then press gently down to spread the bristles and make one stroke to the free edge of the nail. 2.Then repeal the process on the left side. 3.Then the right side, following the side of the nail each time.
You have to work quickly, as the polish starts to dry as soon as it's on the nail. Try and cover the nail with just these three strokes (obviously if the nail is huge you may need one more) and then leave the polish to find its own level. The second coat will cover any streaks or patches in the first, so don't try and remove them by continuing to stroke the nail, because the polish will dry and drug and you'll end up with even worse streaks and blobs. Add another coat, be quick or the polish will drag as it Starts to dry. Make sure you have a lot of polish on the brush, so the new layer slides over the first layer easily. Stroke the nail a couple of times in the centre to smooth the stroke lines, then leave it to find its own level.
Top coat
You can apply a clear topcoat in exactly the same way . The top coat protects the nail polish and brings out the colour and a high shine.
Interlocking.
In the real world client often smudge theri polish when it's drying, to prevent this ask them to interlock their fingers like this.
Sell your client a bottle of the same colour polish for touching up or matching her toe nails If you make a mistake during polishing, don't try and reactify it while the polish is drying. Leave it, continue to finish the other nails and then return to it when it's dry. Then you can decide to either cover up the mistake or remove the polish and start again If she has a really wide nail, leave a gap down the sides, clear of polish, this will make the nail look narrower. Tell your client why you are leaving the gap. Limit yourself to a maximum of six strokes for even the largest of nails. Three is normally enough Practice polishing on The Nail Trainer's number 6 nails, they are like a nail with an extension .You can wipe off the polish with non acetone remover and use them again. polish looks better if there a gap around the sides and cuticle, rather than if it touches the cuticle or side walls.
Preparation.
Work form the pinky to the thumb, preparing each nail in turn as you did in Step 2. Sanitise your hands and your clients hands and push back the circles on all five fingers.
Make sure you get into the corners of all the nails and remove every bit of shine. Resist the temptation to wipe dust off of the nail, with your fingers and be careful when you are working on each finger that you fold the completed prepared nails Out of the way so they don't get touched. If you touch a prepared nail, you'll need buff it up again to remove the oil from your fingers.
Tipping.
Working from the thumb to the pinky, select a tip for each size of nail. Size the width of the tip to match and glue the tip on. Select and size the five and then glue them on one after the other.
When youve glued the tip onto the pinky, switch back to the thumb which will be well stuck by now, and trim the tip to length. Work back along the fingers and trim all the tips to the same length.
Then blend and shape the tips one after the other with your black file, buff and dust.
Apply a thin layer of Gel to the thumb and cure for six minutes.
Building layer. Apply the building layer to all four fingers, being vary careful with the nails that have Gel on as you work along the four fingers. Cure all four together in the UV box for five minutes, and repeat the building layer on the Thumb. You cannot cure the fingers and thumbs together as the thumb will sit sideways in the light box and therefore half of it will be in the shade and will not be cured.
Finishing.
When all fingers and the thumb are cured have a good look at the nails. If there are lumps and bumps of the Gel shape looks wrong, remove the sticky residue and correct the shape with your white and yellow files. If it looks good, apply a final thin layer of Gel onto the sticky residue and cure. If you have filed the Gel, make sure there is no shiny areas left, and then apply and cure the third sealing layer of Gel.
Remove any sticky residue and clear any Gel in the nail grooves by streamlining left and right with your yellow file. Tidy up the tree edges it required.
polish.
Working along the fingers, apply a coat of polish to each nail from pinky to thumb. Use three strokes on the fingers and four on the thumb. Switch back to the thumb and apply a second coat, when you get to the pinky, switch back to the thumb again and apply a coat of top coat. Let the nails dry for at least fifteen minutes before removing them from The Nail Trainer.
Practice regime.
To complete the course you need to practice sixty hands, that's three hundred nails. By the end of the process your times should be about 45 minutes for the hand. You may need to replenish your stocks of Nail Trainer Nails and product, please call the office for more Supplies. Repeat the five steps on each set of nails, and save each tenth set on the whole hand practice card. For the 20th. 40th and 60th set do not apply coloured polish, apply only a top coat. This is so we can more easily see the quality of the overlay.
Fiberglass
Fiberglass nails are not so popular as Gel or Acrylic nails but in some ways they are superior. They're the first choice for a client that bites her nails and if applied well will look very natural. There's no Adour during application and the chemicals used are friendlier. The finished nails are really tough and are easier to remove than the other systems. Fiberglass is the favorite system for a select bond of Nail Technicians. In the Home Learn Fiberglass nails course, you get everything you need to learn this particular system. After learning about the nail industry, your tools, and products, we show you how: To extend the length of the natural nail with tips and how to blend them smoothly into the natural nail. You'll then learn how to apply layers of resin, lay in the fiber strips and add more resin to make the fiber weave invisible. You'll find out how to use accelerator to set the resin and you'll see how to add further layers of resin to strengthen and enhance the nails shape. Finally you buff, shine and polish to produce fantastic looking nails.
Rebalancing.
What is rebalancing?
The nail enhancement is built on a growing, natural nail. The nail grows at about three millimeters (1/8 inch) a month, so the nail tip and the overlay on top of that grows out at the same rate. So after a few weeks: 1. A slight ledge appears at the cuticle area. 2. The apex of the nail has moved. 3. The smile line has moved. 4. The free edge has lengthened.
Rebalancing the nail returns the nail to the pristine condition it was in immediately after the application by shortening and thinning the free edge, moving the apex back, and filling in the gap at the cuticle. The most difficult bit of the process is to file in such a way that there is no visible line between product and natural nail after the maintenance is complete. In other words, you cannot see a 'white demarcation line' where product and natural nail meet. If you can gel a perfect blend then your client will love you because she can continue to wear the nails with the 'natural look' as even offer extensive maintenance they look brand new.
If you leave unsightly lines, then the only option is to cover the nails with a coloured polish.
The procedure.
The following looks like a long procedure, but most of it is the same as for a full set. So you already know how to do most of it, and remember you are charging almost as much for a maintenance as you do for a full set after all, you are making them look as good as new again. The pictures you'll see is of acrylic nails with white French tips, but the techniques are the same for normal tips. Gels and fiberglass. It may seem an obvious thing to say, but in the following steps, work on the entire hand for each step. For example you go along all the fingers and thumbs, pushing back the cuticles, removing lifted Gel, streamlining and smoothing the regrowth step then you applying Gel to four fingers and cure, and then to the thumb and cure. We have seen girls work on one finger at a time, completing all the maintenance on a single finger before moving on to the next, this takes ages.
1. Pre-service
Before your client arrives for her maintenance appointment, you must carry out the all important sanitation procedures: Make sure your tools are disinfected by being immersed in disinfectant according to manufacturers recommendations. Make sure they are rinsed and dried thoroughly Wash your hands with anti-bacterial soap. Sanities your work table by disinfecting the work surface. Place a clean towel over work area. Get out new files, buffer block, cuticle pushers, orange sticks, cotton wipes, etc. Client consultation and preparation. When your client arrives, carry out the normal pre-service routine with her: Make sure your client scrubs her hands with anti-bacterial soap Talk to your client using the client consultation card as a guide, find out as much as you can about what has happened to each nail, and make a plan for the service. Fill in the appropriate details on your client's record.
Use o sanitizing hand wash yourself, get your client to do the same. Remove any polish and top coats with nail polish remover on cotton wipes. Push back the cuticles.
8. Apply antiseptic.
Apply antiseptic with a wipe, the liquid will exaggerate any ridge at the junction between product and natural nail, so have a good look before the antiseptic dries to see if you can see a white line in the cuticle area. If you can see it, then light additional filing is required with the medium side of your file to remove this line. Any imperfections you see now will be even more obvious after the product is applied.
adhere to a dusty or oily nail and your client may become sensitized to the product and develop on allergy.
Cracks In overlays
Sooner or later you'll have a customer come in with a cracked overlay, or you'll see a crack has developed when carrying out a standard maintenance.
Tips stressed
If during the original tip application, you selected a tip that is too small for the nail, the sides of the tip would have been forced apart when it was pushed onto the nail. The 'C 'curve of the tip and nail do not match, and forcing the tip onto the nail sets up a stress line in the tip, which may eventually turn into a crack and migrate up through the overlay to the surface. Always use o tip that is the correct size or slightly bigger than the nail, the priority is to match the C curves, and then if necessary file the sides of the tip to match the width of the natural nail.
The cure? Make sure you buff off all of the shine. Clean away the debris. Apply nail prep and dehydrating liquid to the natural nail, if required. And make the three layers of Gel the correct thickness. First layer thin, the second thick enough to have strength at the crown (about 1 mm), but feathered at the cuticle and free edge so it can flex , and the third layer thin again.
Apply Gel in the crack. if crack is all the way to free edge, fit a nail form snugly under the free edge for support.
Then apply the product in the crack. Add more product if required until crack is filled, then cure in the light box. Sometimes you may need to use a thicker 'sculpting' or 'builder' Gel when repairing nails. This is simply a thicker Gel that will not drip so easily. Contact your product supplier for more details of these Gel products.
Lifting overlays.
What is a lifting overlay?
A lifting overlay is where the product, be it Acrylic, Gel or fiberglass has lost its adhesion to the natural nails surface and makes itself apparent with the appearance of a whitish patch under the overlay, obviously you'll only see this after you've removed any coloured polish. The lifting areas look while because instead of being a bonded interface between the underside of the overlay and the surface of the nail, there is a layer of air. If you've seen vamish peeling off a table top, you'll know what I mean. lifting ready always starts at the Side or cuticle and the client will feel that the nail is coming away and a lot of clients will help the process along by picking at it constantly.
Remember this when a customer comes in with a lifting or shed overlay: left to their own devices, all overlays are shed eventually. As a good Nail Technician, your job is to delay the inevitable for as long as possible. So here's the long list of things that you must do to prevent lifting.
Cleaning.
Make sure you dust away the lose product prior to applying new product.
Dehydrating.
Make sure you remove all greasy deposits from the natural nails surface and dehydrate the nail. Make sure the oil prep liquid has completely disappeared before applying the Gel.
Mechanical shock.
If the nail is twisted crushed or hit, the overlay may well lift, you might never know that this is the cause. Educate your customer to look after her nails. Give her a set of 'home care rules'.
file and when you're happy that the new Gel is nicely blended into the old overlay, buff over the entire nail to remove any shine.
Then coat the entire nail with a thin layer of gel to seal the surface. Finish the nail by buffing with the three way buffer, rehydrate the nail surround with cuticle oil and ask your client to wash.
Bad reaction
You may find your client has a reaction to one of the chemicals used in the overlay or in the application of the overlay. The skin around the nail may be irritated by contact with a contact with a product or a product may trigger an allergic reaction, which can take many forms. You might find this happens straight away with a new client or it may take six months to manifest itself, offer repeated exposure to the product. This is why it's so important to wash the nails to remove any chemical residue. If she has a reaction, remove the overlays at no cost to the client and try a different nail system.
A fresh set.
Secondly, after four re-balances, your client may want a 'fresh set' look, so remove them and start again.
Bad workmanship.
And lastly, this does need saying, there are many Nail Technicians producing sets of ugly, heavy, badly applied nails that start to fall off after a couple of days. If you come across work like this, remove them, start again, create a great set and capture a new customer.
The procedure: Prepare the acetone. Fill the small bowl with acetone and half fill the larger bowl with hot water. Place the small bowl inside the larger bowl .Do this 7 to 10 minutes in advance of the client arriving so the acetone has a chance to warm up. Never warm the acetone In any other way, it is extremely flammable and it's dangerous to place acetone in an oven, microwave or on a hot plate. 1. pre service . Complete the pre-service sanitation and consultation procedure, remove any old polish with remover. There's no point in spending time soaking off long free edges so trim them off now with clippers 2. cuticule oil. Apply some cuticle oil by rubbing into the cuticle and nail walls. This helps protect three skin form the dehydrating properties of the acetone. 3. Encase the nail. Dip wads of cotton wool into the warm acetone and place on top of the nail. 4. Cover with foil. Encase the fingertip and cotton wool in some aluminum foil.
5. place all the fingers and thumb into the warm acetone and leave to soak. Times vary from product to product, the range is 15 to 45 minutes. Out of all the systems Gel is the hardest to remove, Fiberglass is the easiest and Acrylics are somewhere between the two
6. Pull off the foil and cotton pad and discard, Work quickly, as some products will start to harden again as soon as the acetone starts to evaporate. 7. Remove the old overlay. Gently push and prise the product off of the nail with the birch wood stick. Dip the finger back into the acetone occasionally to keep the product soft. For some Gels this is all that's required, for others you'll find that a combination of soaking and filing works well. Talk to the manufacturer or other Nail Technicians that have experience with the brand you are using. 8. File. Using a medium grit file, remove any residual product from the nail surface and then go over the nail again with the fine side of the buffer block. 9.Condition. Rehydrate the cuticle and nail surrounds by rubbing in some cuticle oil, and then bring the nails up to a high shine using the three way buffer.
filing off. For those Gels that refuse to soak off, the only thing you can do is to file them off. Firstly cut bock the free edges to a natural length and then remove the majority of the Gel in the crown area with a black file. Then switch to a white file and using the grips and positions you learnt in the part 1, gently reshape the Gel down the centre, the left and right sides and free edge. At some point the Gel gets so thin that you really can't see it. At this point you may as well stop filing. The object of the exercise is not to remove every last scrap of Gel, rather remove enough so the nail looks natural and then let is grow out naturally.
So, having inspected the nails the plan is as follows: 1. Clean up the index (forefinger) and thumb. 2. Apply two new tips and blend as normal. 3. Then rebalance the remaining 3 fingers, by removing the regrowth step, shortening the free edges and moving the crowns back. So then I'll have all 5 fingers prepped and ready for Gel. 4. Because the thumb and index are brand new, they'll need a thin bonding layer first. The remaining three fingers still have the original Gel on them so they don't need a new bonding layer. 5. Now it's a simple job to apply building layer to all five nails, followed by a final thin sealing coat.
Now that all fingers have gel on them we can apply the last two coats of gel to all of them. A thick building layer and a thin sealing layer.
Remove the sticky residue. That's it, the nails are returned to pristine condition. If at any time you were not happy with the shape of a Gel nail, you can simply correct it with your file and add a further coat of Gel. All that's required now on this set, is for the normal post service wash, to clear residual chemicals off the skin, and some cuticle oil, and add polish or top coat in accordance with your clients wishes.
END