1.

INTRODUCTION

Indian Textile Industry is one of the leading textile industries in the world. The scenario started changing after the economic liberalization of Indian economy in 1991. The opening up of economy gave much-needed thrust to the Indian textile industry, which has now successfully become one of the largest in the world. Indian textile industry largely depends upon the textile manufacturing and export. It also plays a major role in the economy of the country. Edward R Schwartz (2000) declears that, India earns about 27% of its total foreign exchange through textile exports. Further, the textile industry of India also contributes nearly 14% of the total industrial production of the country. It also contributes around 3% to the GDP of the country. Indian Textile Industry according to Pritchard(2002),it is also the largest in the country in terms of employment generation. It not only generates jobs in its own industry, but also opens up scopes for the other ancillary sectors. Indian textile industry currently generates employment to more than 35 million people.It is also estimated that, the industry will generate 12 million new jobs by the year 2010. The Handloom Sector, one among the textile industries occupies an eminent place in preserving the countrys heritage, culture and plays a vital role in the economy of the country and having one of the largest employers in the country Orman states that, about 65 Lakh people directly or in-directly are employed as weavers and allied workers. The Handloom Sector, gives more importance to workers in comparison to Powerloom and Mill Sectors. The Govt. of India, Ministry of Textiles, Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms has been supporting the Handloom Sector through State Governments by implementation of various programmes relating to input supplies, production and marketing. This has helped the sector in development of new/diversified products for domestic and foreign markets. However, there is need to up-grade the technology in the areas of pre-loom, weaving and post-loom.With a focus on the overall improvement in the productivity and quality of the products for the market say, Albert (1996)

Delany and Timmis express that, Cotton is an important cash crop in India and it is the King of Fibers. Cotton plays a significant role in the national economy.It is a natural fibre harvested from the cotton plant. Cotton is one of the oldest fibers under human cultivation, with traces of cotton over 7,000 years old recovered from archaeological sites. Cotton is one of the most used natural fibers in existence today, with consumers from all classes/nations wearing because of its varied applications. Thousands of acres globally are devoted to the production of cotton, whether it be new world cotton, with longer, smoother fibers, or the shorter and coarser.Cotton became very popular with British purchasers because of its superior quality. Wool is highly durable and able to stretch up to 50% when wet and 30% when dry. In addition, wool has excellent moisture wicking properties, pulling moisture into the core of the fiber so that it doesn't feel wet or soggy to the wearer expresses Willing (1999). Wool pulls moisture away from the skin, as well, and is worn by people in a wide variety of situations who prefer the feeling of dry air next to the skin to the clammy sense of perspiration. Wool is favored for textile production because it is easy to work with. The Indian Wool Industry is an important industry since it is one of the prominent sources of livelihood for the rural India and it represents small, medium and large scale units. The bulk of the wool that is produced in India is of coarse quality and used mainly in the manufacture of apparel, blankets, finished textiles, garments and knitwear. Further, the India wool Industry also caters to civil and defense requirements for warm clothing.The Indian Wool Industry is the 7th largest in the world and it accounts for about 1.8% of total world production of wool. The challenges faced by the finishing industry have intensified in the last one decade. Todays consumers insist on odour control, freshness, high performance and comfort. Apparel makers and the finishing industry are thus faced with a daunting job of producing superior fabrics that are technically advanced. Various functional finishes are Encapsulated finishes, smart textiles,anti-static, moisture-management,odour-free,non-ironing,anti-microbial,aloverafinish,water-proof and cool finish.

Houck (2006) conveys that , these new innovations gave more importance in application of different types of finishes.In the world of textile and garment, finishing plays a vital role for quality and value. In the abundance of various finishes, importance is given to Aloe Vera finish since people take much care about health and hygiene. Innovations in the textile field have embedded the virtues of aloe vera in garments, which prevents ageing of the skin; regenerates skin cells, and keeps skin free from microbial infections. Aloe Vera is basically a native plant of Africa. Aloe vera, also known as the true or medicinal aloe.It is also known as lily of the desert and plant of immortality due to its medicinal effects.The structure of natural fibers retains water and oxygen along with nutrients, by there offering optimal enrichment for health care.On the other hand, direct contact with human body supplies warmth, humidity and nutrients, i.e.,provides a perfect environment and optimal conditions says, W A R Thomas (2001) Aloe vera finished fabric is mainly used in manufacturing garments which are next to the skin. Apart from keeping the body warm; it also has some additional functions like absorbing bad smell, and providing anti-bacterial features. They are used in the manufacture of socks, gluons, under garments and stockings.This will be more beneficial for the making of infant wears. Keeping the above points in mind, the researcher framed A Study Of Aloevera Functional Finish On Selected Cotton And Wool Fabricswith the following objectives.

to study on the compression between aloe vera treated between cotton and wool fabrics

to study on the medical properties of aloevera. to study the extraction and application methods or procedures of herbs on cotton and wool material. to convert the aloevera finished material to an useful product based on the aliment and evaluate the same to analyze and evaluate the aloevera finished cotton and wool fabric.
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2. REVIEW OF LITERATURE
The reviews of literature for the topic A Study Of Aloevera Functional Finish On Selected Cotton And Wool Fabrics comprise the following headings: 2.1. COTTON 2.1.1. HISTORY OF COTTON 2.1.2. COTTON GROWTH 2.1.3. IMPORTANCE OF COTTON 2.1.4. USES OF COTTON 2.2. WOOL 2.2.1.WOOL TYPES 2.2.2.HISTORY OF WOOL
2.2.3.PRODUCTION OF WOOL

2.2.4.BENEFITS OF WOOL 2.2.5.WOOL TODAY 2.3. WEAVING 2.3.1.HISTORY OF WEAVING 2.4. FINISHES 2.4.1. STANDARD FINISH 2.4.2. DECORATIVE FINISH 2.4.3. POST FINISH 2.5. ALOVERA 2.5.1. PROPERTIES OF ALOE VERA 2.5.2.BENEFITS OF ALOE VERA 2.5.3. MEDICINAL USES

2.1. COTTON
Cotton is an important cash crop in India and plays a significant role in the national economy. As an industrial crop, it supports millions of people through cultivation, processing and trade and contributes Rs.360 billion (US$8 billion) to the export income. The area occupied by cotton in recent years fluctuated between 8 to 9 million hectares (1 hectare = 2.471 acres) in India. While India has the largest area under cotton in the world (representing 20 to 25% of the global area), it ranks only third in terms of production after China and USA declares,Pande (1999) The cotton plant belongs to the genus Gossypium of the family Malvaceae (mallow family). It is generally a shrubby plant having broad three-lobed leaves and seeds in capsules, or bolls; each seed is surrounded with downy fiber, white or creamy in color and easily spun. The fibers flatten and twist naturally as they dry. Cotton plant is of tropical origin but is most successfully cultivated in temperate climates with well-distributed rainfall. All western U.S. cotton and as much as one-third of Southern cotton, however, is grown under irrigation. In the United States nearly all commercial production comes from varieties of upland cotton (G. hirsutum), but small quantities are obtained from seaisland and American-Egyptian cotton (both belonging to the species G. barbadense). G. arboreum and G. herbaceum are the chief cultivated species in Asia say Munro Cotton (1999). Cotton is classified in the division Magnoliophyta, class Magnoliopsida, order Malvales, family Malvaceae.Cotton is a soft fiber that grows around the seeds of the cotton plant (Gossypium spp.), a shrub native to the Indian subcontinent and the tropical and subtropical regions of Africa and the Americas. The fiber is most often spun into thread and used to make a soft, breathable textile, which is the most widely used natural-fiber cloth in clothing today. The English name descends from the Arabic word "al qutun", (hence also came the Spanish word "algodn") meaning cotton fiber. Africa and South America are large providers of cotton.

COTTON PLATE 1 Cotton fibre (once processed to remove seeds and traces of wax, protein, etc.) consists of nearly pure cellulose, a natural polymer. Cothren, ed., Cotton (1999) comments that,Cotton production is very efficient, in the sense that ten percent or less of the weight is lost in subsequent processing to convert the raw cotton bolls into pure fiber.

2.1.1. HISTORY OF COTTON

Cotton was used for clothing in present-day Peru and Mexico perhaps as long as 5,000 years ago. Also, cotton was grown, spun, and woven in ancient India, China, Egypt, and Pakistan, around 3000 B.C.According to ,Eiri Board (2000) Cotton is not native to Western Europe. Around A.D. 800, Arabic traders likely introduced cotton to Spaniards. By the fourteenth century, Mediterranean farmers were cultivating the cotton plant and shipping the fiber to the Netherlands for spinning and weaving. British innovations in the late 1700s include water-powered spinning machinery, a monumental improvement over hand-spinning. Southern cotton was shipped to New England mills in huge quantities. As a result of machine spinning, weaving, and printing, Americans could cheaply purchase calico and it became universally worn.Today, a fair amount of cotton is woven outside the United States where labor is less costly. Polyester, a synthetic, is often used along with cotton, but has little chance of supplanting the natural fiber.(http://www.cotton.org)

2.1.2. COTTON GROWTH According to Blackman (1999),Cotton grows in warm climates and most of the worlds cotton is grown in the U.S., Uzbekistan, the Peoples Republic of China and India. Other leading cotton-growing countries are Brazil, Pakistan and Turkey.In this country, the major cottonproducing states are: Alabama, Arizona, Arkansas, California, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Missouri, New Mexico, North Carolina, Oklahoma, South Carolina, Tennessee and Texas, Florida, Kansas and Virginia.The yield in the U.S. averages approximately 1 1/3 bales per acres and about 1,078 pounds of seed. A U.S. bale weighs around 500 pounds.

GROWTH OF COTTON PLATE 2

COTTON SEEDS PLATE 3

This yield is about twice as much as in 1950 and is due to better land use, improved plant varieties, mechanization, fertilization and irrigation. It also is a result of much better control of disease, weeds and insects. A major part of the credit for this progress goes to scientists working at experiment stations and in laboratories, and to agricultural extension workers who bring the findings to farmers comments Blackman,(1999). 2.1.3. IMPORTANCE OF COTTON Today, the world uses more cotton than any other fiber, and cotton is a leading cash crop in the U.S. At the farm level alone, the production of each years crop involves the purchase of more than $5.3 billion worth of supplies and services. This stimulates business activities for factories and enterprises throughout the country. Processing and handling of cotton after it leaves the farm generates even more business activity. Annual business revenue stimulated by cotton in the U.S. economy exceeds $120 billion, making cotton Americas number one value-added crop. According to Gordon (1999), the most important is the fiber or lint, which is used in making cotton cloth. Linters the short fuzz on the seed provide cellulose for making plastics, explosives and other products. Linters also are incorporated into high quality paper products and processed into batting for padding mattresses, furniture and automobile cushions.The cottonseed is crushed in order to separate its three products oil, meal and hulls.Cottonseed oil is used primarily for shortening, cooking oil and salad dressing. The meal and hulls that remain are used either separately or in combination as livestock, poultry and fish feed and as fertilizer. The stalks and leaves of the cotton plant are plowed under to enrich the soil.

2.1.4. USES OF COTTON

Innumerable commodities are made from cotton. From the lint (the fiber separated from the seed) come the major products, chiefly textile and yarn goods, cordage, automobile-tire cord, and plastic reinforcing. The linters (short, cut ends removed from the seed after ginning) are a valuable source of cellulose. Cotton hulls are used for fertilizer, fuel, and packing; fiber from the stalk is used for pressed paper and cardboard.

Cotton seed oil, has grown into a separate industry since its establishment in the late 19th century. The oil content of cotton seeds is about 20%. After being freed from the linters, the seeds are shelled and then crushed, and pressed or treated with solvents to obtain the crude oil. In its highly refined state, cotton seed oil is employed as salad and cooking oil, for cosmetics, and especially in the manufacture of margarine and shortenings.( http://www.cotton.org)

2.2. WOOL
Wool is the fiber of a living animal, usually a sheep. It forms a protective covering that insulates against both heat and cold and keeps the animal's body at a consistent temperature. As a clothing material, wool does the same for people. It is light, comfortable, and durable. Wool is a single textile that offers multiple advantages, making it one of nature's most valuable fibers. It's naturally hypo-allergenic, breathable, insulating, moisture-wicking, flame resistant and soft. Chauhan and Oberoi (1999) says that, Wool consists of the cortex, overlapping scales (sharper and more protruding than those of hair) that may expand at their free edges causing fibers to intermesh; elasticum, the inner layer; and a core. When soaked, the elasticum and core contract, shrinking the fiber. Elasticity resulting from the molecular structure of wool and resiliency from its crimp make wool fabrics crease resistant. Fine wool will stretch one third its length. Wool is warm because its fibers are nonconductors of heat and its crimp permits it to enmesh still air. It is highly absorbent and releases moisture slowly. Its tensile strength is one fourth greater than that of cotton. A protein compound of complex chemical composition, it is soluble in hot caustic soda. 2.2.1. WOOL TYPES Wool is classed as follows: fine, usually short-staple wool of Merino fineness and including Delaine Merino, combable fibers 2 in. (5.1 cm) or more in length; medium, or mutton, 2 1/2 to 6 in. (6.4-15.2 cm) long, e.g., Cheviot and Southdown; long-staple, 10 to 15 in. (25.438.1 cm) long, loosely crimped, e.g., the Lincoln and the Cotswold; and carpet, 1 to 15 in. (2.538.1 cm) long, strong, coarse, and usually blended for uniformity. For industrial purposes the fiber of the camel , Angora goat (see mohair ), Kashmir goat (cashmere), llama ,alpaca , and vicua is classed as wool.
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Sheep are sheared with mechanical clippers. The fleece thus recovered is classed as lamb's wool, or first clip; hog wool, clipped from sheep 12 to 14 months old; wether wool, from older animals; taglocks, the ragged, discolored portion; and pulled wool, usually weakened when recovered by sweating or chemical processes from sheep slaughtered for mutton comments Chauhan and Oberoi(1999).

2.2.2. HISTORY OF WOOL

No known wild sheep are wool bearing. The supposed ancestors of the domestic sheep had long hair and a soft, downy undercoat, which under domestication gradually became wool, while the long hair disappeared. In this development, breeding, feed, climate, and protection were influential, as shown by an atavistic return of neglected sheep to long hair and rudimentary wool.In the tombs and ruins of Egypt, Nineveh, and Babylon, in the barrows of early Britons, and among the relics of the Peruvians, fragments of woolen fabrics are found. In the American colonies, sheep raising started in Jamestown. Stringent English laws against exporting wool passed in an attempt to force the use of English cloth on the colonies, early drove the settlers to the raising of sheep. George Washington imported sheep and brought spinners and weavers from England. Early in the 19th cent., imported Merinos greatly improved the existing stock. Spinning and weaving were early established in New England, at first in homes, later in small factories. The first factory in America using water power to weave wool was established (1788) at Hartford, Conn., and was encouraged by tax exemption and a bounty on each yard woven declears ,Carter Houck(1996) 2.2.3 PRODUCTION OF WOOL According to international wool council, The processing of wool involves four major steps. First comes shearing, followed by sorting and grading, making yarn and lastly, making fabric. In most parts of the world, sheep are sheared once a year, in early spring or early summer. The best wool comes from the shoulders and sides of the sheep. Grading and sorting, where workers remove any stained, damaged or inferior wool from each fleece and sort the rest of the wool according to the quality of the fibers, follow this. Wool fibers are judged not only on the basis of their strength but also by their fineness (diameter), length, crimp (waviness) and colour.
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FINE MERINO WOOL PLATE 4 The carding process involves passing the wool through rollers that have thin wire teeth. The teeth untangle the fibers and arrange them into a flat sheet called a web. The web is then formed into narrow ropes known as silvers. After carding, the processes used in making yarn vary slightly, depending on the length of the fibers. Carding length fibers are used to make woolen yarn. Combing length fibers and French combing length fibers are made into worsted yarn.

LONG AND SHORT HAIR WOOL PLATE 5 Speer (2006) expresses that, Woolen yarn, which feels soft, has a fuzzy surface and is heavier as compared to worsted wool. While worsted wool is lighter and highly twisted, it is also smoother, and is not as bulky, thus making it easier to carry or transport about. Making worsted wool requires a greater number of processes, during which the fibers are, arranged parallel to
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each other.The smoother the hard surface worsted yarns, the smoother the wool it produces, meaning, less fuzziness. Fine worsted wool can be used in the making of athletics attire, because it is not as hot as polyester, and the weave of the fabric allows wool to absorb perspiration, allowing the body to "breathe". Wool manufacturers knit or weave yarn into a variety of fabrics. Worsted fabrics such as whipcord, gabardine, and serge have a hard, smooth texture. Originally made only from long-staple fibers, worsted yarn is now spun also from medium or short fibers. The fibers are carded, the resulting sliver gilled to straighten the fibers and double them for uniformity; subjected to successive combings to remove nails (short ends) and lay the fibers parallel; then drawn into roving and spun, usually by the rapid, continuous ring method, and twisted. Although the twill weave is usual for worsteds, the same weaves may be used as for woolens without the pattern being obscured by the napping, fulling, and shearing processes commonly employed in finishing woolens says Oberoi (1999) 2.2.4. BENEFITS OF WOOL According to Nancy Blackman (1999),Wool is a single textile that offers multiple advantages, making it one of nature's most valuable fibers. It's naturally hypo-allergenic, breathable, insulating, moisture-wicking, flame resistant and soft---all qualities that make it ideal for use in bedding. Wool duvets are top blankets made of either cotton, cotton-bamboo blend or wool shell filled with natural wool fibers. They're manufactured in three weights---lightweight for hot months, mid-weight for most times of year, and heavyweight for cold months. Non-Allergenic Unlike cotton and synthetic fibers, wool naturally resists mold, dust mites and mildew. Because it moves moisture through the core of the fiber, wool doesn't provide a hospitable environment for microorganisms, which require constant moisture for survival. Constructed of the fibrous protein called keratin, each individual strand also has scales along its casing that prevent dust or mold from lingering. Synthetic fibers and cotton tend to hold moisture, making them more accommodating to dust mites and other such microorganisms, and therefore not as clean or non-allergenic. Breathable
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Wool has been called the most breathable textile available. "Breathability" is used to describe how a fiber or fabric responds to heat---body heat, specifically. Textiles that lack breathability, such as polyester, trap body heat next to the skin causing increasing warmth and sweating. Cotton is a more breathable fiber than polyester; however, when it's woven into a highthread count fabric, it loses a certain amount of breathability. Moisture-Wicking Part of wool's breathability comes from its power to pull any moisture that's up against it into its fibers and release it through evaporation. Like sweating sheep, a sweating sleeper has an advantage with wool because it doesn't hold moisture against the skin, resulting in damp bedding. Wool is as much as 22 percent more absorbent than cotton, and absorbs as much as 30 percent of its weight in moisture before evaporation occurs. The fibers release heat as moisture evaporates; 27 heat calories are given off by a single drying wool fiber. Flame-Resistant Untreated or organic wool is naturally flame-resistant because the keratin it's made of, in combination with the moisture absorbed by the fibers at any given time, work hand-in-hand to resist catching fire. Wool has a much higher ignition temperature than other fibers, and burns slowly when it does catch fire. In certain cases, wool containing a high moisture content has even been known to self-extinguish. This doesn't hold true for chemically treated, or non-organic wool, since chemical treatments can easily catch fire and cause the wool to burn.

2.2.5. WOOL TODAY In the United States, by the Wool Products Labeling Act of 1939, the term wool may be applied only to fabrics made entirely of new wool; the term reprocessed wool, to wool recovered from unused articles and waste; and reused wool, to wool reclaimed from used articles. Numerous synthetic fibers have been developed as wool imitations and for blending with wool.

2.3. WEAVING
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According to, Orman (1989) Weaving is the art of forming a fabric by interlacing at right angles by two or more sets of yarn or other material. Weaving is the process of creating fabrics or textiles. Looms are basically the tools or machines used in the craft of weaving. There are many types of looms from, hand held to the largest and modern looms. They are used to hold warp or twists of threads to retain the proper tension while weaving. Though looms comes in different shapes and size, their functions are all the same. Seemanthini (1999),explodes the myth that handloom fabrics are less expensive to produce than powerloom or mill fabrics. She argues that mill-made synthetic fabrics may be sold at a fraction of the cost of cotton handlooms, but the hidden costs of mill production, such as disease-causing pollution and the social cost of industrial concentrations, need to be factored in when calculating costs. 2.3.1. HISTORY OF WEAVING Hand loom weavers traditionally worked in their homes but a system of cooperation between workers made the process more efficient and less isolating. The history of weaving is well documented and so for this article I am going to concentrate on just one man who was a hand loom weaver.In 1699, the population of Darwen in Lancashire was 699. Darwen at that time was little more than a village and quite separate from its nearest town, Blackburn, which itself was not much more than a large village with even more remote hamlets on the bleak moors. Weaving was done on large looms, made by hand of course and a loom would be a family's prized possession, as it was their only means of accessing any cash. The raw yarn was collected from a man called the 'putter out', spun by the women and children and then woven into cloth by the men. Every member of the family would be involved in some way.This system was still in operation in the early 1800s and it would seem that the weavers walked to Blackburn with the finished cloth on their backs, a round trip of maybe 15 miles, on rough horse tracks and across inhospitable moorland. Often Darwen was cut off by snow for months on end in the winter says,Bansal and Phadke (1999).

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WEAVING PLATE 6

HANDLOOM WEAVING PLATE 7 Handlooms are the early types of looms, used vertically while the warp of the threads is weighted. The warp threads are hanged to a branch of a tree or to a piece of wood and then attached to the ground. The weft threads are pushed manually by hand or sometimes a piece of stick are used and serve as the shuttle.Tood and Mattic (1902) says that During the early years,
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the process was more difficult since the warp thread are raised and lowered one by one. People then use a rod that makes up the shred to speed up the process. It is then easier for weft thread to pass through the warp.Ground looms are used horizontally. Warp threads are extended with the use of two pegs. Accoding to Professor, Gokhale (2000) Institute of Politics and Economics Deccan Gymkhana.In Easier way Weaving means to make cloth and other objects. Threads or strands of material are passed under and over each other. Harder way Weaving is the process of making cloth, rugs, blankets, and other products by crossing two sets of threads over and under each other. Weavers use threads spun from natural fibers like cotton, silk, and wool and synthetic fibers such as nylon and Orlon. But thin, narrow strips of almost any flexible material can be woven.

2.4. FINISHING
The word "finish" means all the different treatments applied to a fabric to change such things as its appearance, feel or hand, weara bility or care requirements. Finishes are said to be durable if they can withstand several launderings or dry cleanings without being removed. Permanent last the lifetime of the fabric. Renewable or nonpermanent finishes are those that rub off easily by washing or dry cleaning. Henning (1996) views that finishes can change the appearance, hand or properties of a fabric. Napping (a fabric finish that produces short fuzzy fibres on the surface of a fabric like flannelette) and flocking (an effect created when short fibres are glued on the surface of a fabric in a some sort of pattern) are examples of functional finishes which change a fabric's appearance. Other examples of appearance-altering finishes are sizing(gives limp fabric more body) and glazing (rollers are used to produce a highly-polished, shiny surface on a fabric). Finishes are said to be durable if they can withstand several launderings or drycleanings without being removed. Permanent last the lifetime of the fabric. Renewable or nonpermanent finishes are those that rub off easily by washing or drycleaning.Finishes can change the appearance, hand or properties of a fabric conveys ,Lewin(2006).

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According to Sello and Marcel Dekker (2008), Textile Fabric Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing.In order to impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the material to different type of physical and chemical treatments.According to Jaccqueline (1999), Fabric finishes are wet or dry treatments that complete a textile. Some finishes are applied wet, some dry, some are cold and some are heated treatments. Often a combination of methods is used to complete the finish. Healyein (2001) states that Finishes on textiles vary with the end use.The longevity of finishes varies and is categorized into durable and non-durable finishes. A finish that is classified as durable is one that will endure through successive wet or dry cleanings. A nondurable, or soluble finish, is one that will be removed through successive washing or dry cleanings.Whether a finish is durable or non-durable likely will not be apparent. If the quantity of yardage or the nonresidential specification dictates, the design professional should research the finishes to document their durability. This is particularly important with flame-retardant finishes to ensure the finish will meet the required codes. 2.4.1. STANDARD FINISH Textile finishes applied after the coloring process generally fall into one of two general categories according to purpose or end result. These categories are: standard, wet or chemical finishes and decorative or mechanical finishes.Standard, chemical or wet finishes augment the textile's durability or ability to perform in a given way. These finishes include antibacterial or antiseptic, anti-static, care-free, flame retardant, insulative, mothproof, soil and water repellent finishes. Property-changing functional finishes provide the added qualities desired for a particular fabric or they may be used to change an undesirable property to a more desirable one. Many such finishes add more than one property to a fabric. The label may indicate which finishes have been applied to the fabric. Examples of functional finishes that change the properties of fabric include:

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Crease Resistant Finishes are applied to cellulose fibres (cotton, linen and rayon) that wrinkle easily. Permanent Press fabrics have crease resistant finishes that resist wrinkling and also help to maintain creases and pleats throughout wearing and cleaning. Waterproof Finishes -Aallows no water to penetrate, but tend to be uncomfortable because they trap moisture next to the body. Recently, fabrics have been developed that are waterproof, yet are also breathable (e.g. GORE-TEX, Bion II and Dicrylan). Absorbent Finishes increase fibres' moisture holding power. Such finishes have been applied to towels, cloth diapers, underwear, sports shirts and other items where moisture absorption is important. Antibacterial or antiseptic finishes are topically applied in the form of bacteriostats -chemicals that suppress mold and mildew and slow or prevent the rotting process. These finishes are important in health care settings. Anti-static finishes primarily are for carpeting and wall or furniture upholstery. There are two ways anti-static properties can be applied: by adding chemical inhibitors to the man-made fiber viscose solution, or as a topical application after the carpet or fabric is completed. Flame retardant finishes inhibit the rate of ignition, slow flame spread and encourage a fabric to self-extinguish. They are topical applications that are heat-set into the textile and are required for many nonresidential settings in order to meet code. Soil repellent finishes are available as either durable or non-durable. If the treatment is applied to the fabric when it is manufactured or when it's sent to a fabric finishing company, it is durable. Topical application from a spray can or in the back room of a furniture warehouse is nondurable.Soil repellent finishes hold dirt and oily stains on the surface of the textile for a time so they can be readily removed. Water absorbency finishes enhance the ability to absorb water and aim at making the textile more washable and more able to let go of soil and stains once they are absorbed into the surface. 2.4.2. DECORATIVE FINISH
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Decorative finishes achieve a decorative result or an enhanced aesthetic hand or appearance. A decorative finish may give a fabric its name, such as moir, pliss or chintz, for example. Some decorative effects are not apparent because they enhance the surface texture of the finish by brightening or dulling it. Some finishes increase the durability of the decorative effect. 2.4.3. POST FINISH Finishes can be applied to fabrics to meet special needs. A fabric finishing company is one that specializes in treating fabrics prior to their construction.The key advantage to postfinishing is that a fabric that has the right weight, color, texture and pattern but does not meet a certain requirement still can be specified and installed after it has been treated. This allows far greater latitude in fabric selection. Mark (2008) coates that,New innovative functional finishes represent the next generation of finishing industry, which, make textile materials act by themselves. According to Wooding, N. S. Wiley, with emerging technologies, a successful future for Functional Finished Textiles will only be achieved through open sharing of ideas and research findings, a thorough testing of the capability boundaries, and frank discussion of fears and failings. India has a bright future in Functional Finished Textiles.

2.5. ALOVERA
Aloe vera is one of the oldest known medicinal plants gifted by nature, Aloe vera often called Miracle plant known by many names, there are over 200 types of aloe vera of these only 4 or 5 are commonly used in medicines. The most widely used variety of aloe vera is Barbadensis Millar. It is perennial, succulent plant with stiff fleshy leaves. Aloe vera is a clear thin gelatinous material that comes from inside the aloe vera leaves.It has cooling effect,It contains aloin that is responsible for its purgative action so it is known to relieve constipation.Research work carried out over many years points conclusively to a toxic colon being the cause of a very wide range of illness, in establishing a regime of regular daily dose of aloe vera juice it may not only be found that the effects are gradual gentle and with no irritant or harmful side effects, but also blood circulation will be improved due to aloe Veras ability to detoxify.
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Aloe vera is alleged to be effective in treatment of wounds . Evidence on the effects of Aloe vera sap on wound healing, however, is limited and contradictory.Some studies, for example, show thatAloe vera promotes the rates of healing while in contrast, other studies show that wounds to which Aloe vera gel was applied were significantly slower to heal than those treated with conventional medical preparations.A more recent review (2007) concludes that the cumulative evidence supports the use of Aloe vera for the healing of first to second degree burns.Also being a natural healer, any internal ulcers or lesions will be soothed and healing will be enhanced.Tanaka and Misawa (2006) says that,Aloe vera leaf has some ingredients like Vitamin, Minerals, Amino acid, Polysaccharides, Enzymes, Plant steroids, Saponins, Lignin, AnthraquinonesSalicylic acid which are necessary for human bodies. Aloe vera works as Antiseptic, Antibacterial, and Anti infla-mmatory. It cures and Preventinfections. The aloe plant belongs to the onion/garlic family and there are about three hundred species of aloe Vera. However the most important one is Aloebadensis Miller. Topical application of Aloe vera may be effective for genital herpes and psoriasis.However, it is not effective for the prevention of radiation-induced injuries.Aloe vera extracts have been shown to inhibit the growth of fungi that cause tinea; however, evidence for control beneath human skin remains to be established. For its anti-fungal properties. According to Pittler and Stevinson .(2009) Aloe is also used to cure skin ailments and wounds. Aloe gels are used to treat cuts, bruises, wounds and scrapes. Aloe contains magnesium lactate, an itch zinhibitor bringing in relief to insect bites, acne, sunburns and rashes.Its healing quality can even cure psoriasis. These positive effects are thought to be due to the presence of compounds such as polysaccharides, mannans, anthraquinones and lectins.The natural range of Aloe vera is unclear, as the species has been widely cultivated throughout the world. Naturalised stands of the species occur in the southern half of the Arabian peninsula, through North Africa, from Morocco to Egypt and Sudan, along with the Canary, Cape Verde and Madeira Islands.

20

ALOE VERA PLANT PLATE 8

ALOE VERA GEL PLATE 9 2.5.1. PROPERTIES OF ALOE VERA According to Shenstone, two classes of aloins are to be recognized: (1) nataloins, which yield picric and oxalic acids with nitric acid, and do not give a red coloration with nitric acid; and (2) barbaloins, which yield aloetic acid (C7H2N3O5), chrysammic acid (C7H2N2O6), picric and oxalic acids with nitric acid, being reddened by the acid. This second group may be divided into a-barbaloins, obtained from Barbados Aloe, and reddened in the cold, and b-barbaloins, obtained from Socotrine and Zanzibar Aloe, reddened by ordinary nitric acid only when warmed or by fuming acid in the cold. Nataloin (2C 17H13O7H2O) forms bright yellow scales. Barbaloin

21

(C17H18O7) prismatic crystals. Aloe species also contain a trace of volatile oil, to which its odour is due. 2.5.2.BENEFITS OF ALOE VERA Aloe vera products are available in various forms like capsules, gel, juice and those that are applied directly to the skin. it has cooling effect and bitter in taste, It contains aloin that is responsible for its purgative action so it is known to relieve constipation. It regulates the peristaltic movements of intestines & promotes digestion, the liver and spleen function are stimulated by the use of this herb. According to Medical Assotiation,Research work has carried out over many years points conclusively to a toxic colon being the cause of a very wide range of illness, in establishing a regime of regular daily dose of aloe vera juice it may not only be found that the effects are gradual gentle and with no irritant or harmful side effects, but also blood circulation will be improved due to aloe Veras ability to detoxify.Aloe vera leave has some ingredients like Vitamin, Minerals, Amino acid, Polysaccharides, Enzymes, Plant steroids, Saponins, Lignin, AnthraquinonesSalicylic acid which are necessary for human bodies. Aloe vera works as Anti-septic, Antibacterial, and Anti infla-mmatory. It cures Eczema, Diabetes,Arthritis and Prevent infections.It also improves human immune system. 2.5.3. MEDICINAL USES Duke (1985) expresses that Aloe vera has a long association with herbal medicine, although it is not known when its medical applications were first discovered. Early records of Aloe vera use appear in the Ebers Papyrus from 16th century BCE,in both Dioscorides' De Materia Medica and Pliny the Elder's Natural History written in the mid-first century CE along with the Juliana Anicia Codex produced in 512 CE. According to Toida (2009) Aloe vera is non-toxic, with no known side effects, provided the aloin has been removed by processing.Taking Aloe vera that contains aloin in excess amounts has been associated with various side effects. Aloe vera is alleged to be effective in treatment of wounds. Evidence on the effects of Aloe vera sap on wound healing, however, is limited and contradictory. Some studies, for example, show thatAloe vera promotes the rates of healing, while in contrast, other studies
22

show that wounds to which Aloe vera gel was applied were significantly slower to heal than those treated with conventional medical preparations. Inagaki (2008) comments that application of Aloe vera may be effective for genital herpes and psoriasis.However, it is not effective for the prevention of radiation-induced injuries. Although anecdotally useful, it has not been proven to offer protection from sunburn or suntan.Aloe vera extracts have been shown to inhibit the growth of fungi that cause tinea;however, evidence for control beneath human skin remains to be established says, Higuchi (2006). Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis,Miller)belonging to family Liliaceae is known as Lily of the desert. Aloe vera has been used as a skin care product for more than 2000 years. In modern times, scientific research has shown that the aloe vera leaf contains 75 nutrients and 200 active compounds ,including 20 minerals,18 amino acids and 12 vitamins. These rich constituents give the aloevera gel special properties as a skin care product which has been used in USA since the 1970s and is found today in virtually all cosmetic products. According to Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research , (2009)Aloevera has been used in traditional medicinal practices of many cultures for a host of curative purpose such as healing of wounds and burnts and finds uses for medical and cosmetic purpose as well as for general health. Aloe vera also possesse antifungal and antibacterial properties, which can be exploited for medical textile applications, such as wound dressing ,suture, bioactive textiles, etc.

23

3. METHODOLOGY
The methodology for the topic A Study Of Aloevera Functional Finish On Selected Cotton And Wool Fabrics comprise the following headings: 3.1 SELECTION OF YARN 3.2 SELECTION OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION TECHINQUE 3.3 SELECTION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISH 3.4 EXTRACTION OF ALOEVERA GEL/SOLUTION 3.5 APPLICATION OF ALOEVERA EXTRACTED SOLUTION ON COTTON AND WOOL FABRICS 3.6 SELECTION OF ARTICLES AND WEAR STUDY 3.7 EVALUTION 3.7.1 SUBJECTIVE EVALUTION 3.7.2 OBJECTIVE EVALUTION 3.7.2.1 MECHANICAL TESTS 3.7.2.1.1 TENSILE STRENGTH AND ELONGATION 3.7.2.1.2 ABRASION RESISTANCE 3.7.2.1.3 FABRIC WEIGHT 3.7.2.1.4 STIFFNESS 3.7.2.1.5 TEARING STRENGTH 3.7.2.1.6 CREASE RECOVERY 3.7.2.1.7 ANTI ALLERGIC TEST 3.7.2.1.8 DEODORIZING ACTIVTIY TEST

3.1. SELECTION OF YARN

24

Cotton is an important cash crop and it is one of the most used natural fibers in existence today.Khan (2001) comments that cotton is mostly preferred by all because it is the only fibre that becomes more strong when wet than any other fibres. Oveivic (2001) views that natural fabric such as cotton allow better air circulation which helps to absorb moisture, keeping the body cool and dry keeping us comfortable in humid weather. According to the Cotton Council International (2004), Cotton is the best choice of materials for people who suffer from allergic or people who have sensitive skin prone to Irritation. Oineen (2000) states that cotton is inexpensive, durable and easy to care. Wool is a soft fabric and provides warmth. It is highly durable and able to stretch, it has excellent moisture wicking properties says Oberoi (1996). According to Speer (2003),wool draws away sweat from skin and retains the moisture.Sinha(1999), Comments that wool feels dry to touch and does not retain oders as well as bacteria cannot find surface to grow on, thus making it antimicrobial and allergic free. Eiri (2002) declares that wool consists of cortex and overlapping scales that makes wool to expand a lot. So that it is highly absorbent and release moisture slowly.Wool regulates Body heat much better than any other yarn or fabric. So it is said to be comfortable in temperature and due to its non- conductor of heat its crimp enmesh air flow easily declares Fannim(2002). Due to these properties the Investigator has selected 100 % Cotton and wool yarns of 2s count for the study. 3.2 SELECTION OF FABRIC CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUE Weaving is the process of interlacement of yarns. According to Leno (1998) there are two types of weaving, Handloom and power loom weaving , where handloom is a traditional method done by hand while power loom weaving forms an advanced technology for weaving fabric with the help of the power machine.Handloom cloths will survive long because of its eco-friendly character of the weaving procedure states Bythell(1996).Handloom weaving is preferred a lot because the handloom process and techniques of production gives the textile a unique character declares Phadke(1997).Gordon( 1999)views that handloom fabrics breaths well and retains body warm in the winter and cool in summer.Hence the Investigator selected handloom plain weave for weaving 100%cotton(Sample 1)andwool(Sample 3)fabrics for the study. 3.3 SELECTION OF FUNCTIONAL FINISH Functional finish provide the added qualities derived for a particular fabric used to
25

change the undesirable property to a more desirable one comments Wikey(1991).Aloe vera extracts have antibacterial and antifungal activty,which may help in the treatment of minor skin infections, such as boils,skin cysts conforms Higuchi (2006).According to Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research(2009).Aloevera has been used as skin care product for more that 200 years, since it contains 75 nutrients and 200 active compounds including, 20 minerals 18 amino acid and 12 vitamins.These rich constituents give the alovera extraction special properties as a skin care product hence the investigator selected aloevera finish to treat handloom plain woven cotton(Sample 2)and wool(Sample 4) fabrics for the study. 3.4 EXTRACTION OF ALOEVERA GEL / SOLUTION The aloevera leafs from the plant was collected to the desired quantity and cleaned with water in the field to remove the adhering dust, microbes, insects if any. The water contain 5-10 ppm chlorine to assure that water is free from pathogens. the leaves are cut transversely at the bottom, soon after cutting each leaves ware washed and cleared manually, which contains 0.001 to 0.005 ppm formalin and again with water further to extract the gel. The cleaned leafs were placed on a tray having 4ft x 4ft with Its height. these leaves were then stacked vertically with the cut at the bottom to drain off the washed water for about 2 to 2cm.After draining off excess water, the leaves were fad into the Juicing machine where it undergoes contineouste squeezing to extract the juice 1gal and the same is collected. The extracted juice/gel was in a transparent solution which was then passed through a filtration cum homogenizing unit to get cleas, while which water forms the final transparent aloevera solution.Thusthe extracted aloevera solution/gelwas kept ready for further application.

26

3.5 APPLICATION

OF ALOEVERA EXTRACTED SOLUTION

ON COTTON

AND WOOL FABRICS The prepared aloevera solution was prepared based on the parameters and properties as shown in the Taldes I and II TABLE I PARAMETES FOR ALOEVERA FINISH ON COTTON FABRIC S.NO 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. PARAMETERS Cotton Materials Fabric quantity Fabric weight Chemicals used Composition M:L application process Time PH Temperature PROPERTIES 2s count 3 meters 250 gms GHT NOUWELL( SCA) CALOEVERA gel extracted ) 25 to 30 gms 1:20 silicon face ( micro tip) 30 min 5.5 to 6 at normal condition 80C

TABLE II PARAMETES FOR ALOEVERA FINISH ON WOOL FABRIC S.NO 1. PARAMETERS Wool
27

PROPERTIES 2s count

2. 3. 4.

Fabric quantity Fabric weight Chemicals used

3 meters 1.250 kgs GHT NOUWELL (SCA) Aloevera gel extracted )

5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Composition M:L application process Time PH Temperature

150 gms 1:20 silicon face ( micro tip) 1hr 33 min 5.5 to 6 at normal condition 80C

From Tables I and II it shows that the extracted aloevera gel it called as GHT NOUWELL ( SCA) and 25 to 30 gms of extracted aloevera gel was taken in a M:L ratio of 1:20 in a water bath, to which 250gms (3mts) of cotton material was steeped inside and boiled maintaining a temperature of 80 C for 30 mins. The PH maintained was 5.5 to 6gpl. The mode of application of aloevera finish to cotton material was by pad- dry cure method following a silicon face ( Micro tip ). After the application process, the cotton material was taken out, rinsed is cool soft water and dried at 80 C for fifteen mins.The same method was followed for 1hour 30 minutes to apply aloevera in wool fabric of 1.250kgs (3meters) with 150 gms of solution in the water bath.

28

GREY COTTON FABRIC SAMPLE 1

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON FABRIC SAMPLE 2

29

GREY WOOL FABRIC SAMPLE 3

WOOL ALOEVERA TREATED FABRIC SAMPLE 4

3.6 SELECTION OF ARTICLES AND WEAR STUDY Baby Tops (Plates10 and 11) and articles such as Gloves (Plates12 and 13)and Socks(Plate14 and 15)were selected for the study by the investigator.These articles carefully selected in order to have an easy contact with the body. The constructed garments and articles namely aloevera treated cotton and wool Baby Tops (Plates 16 and 17),aloevera treated cotton and wool Gloves (Plates 18 and 19)and aloevera treated cotton and wool Socks (Plates 20 and 21) were constructed for 6 to 7 years age
30

were

group.They were given to their respective subject for a period of 30 days. After each use, they were washed and dried.The openion were collected using a performer sheet (Appendix I) regarding its freshness and comfortable while using,effect of itching ,odour control,allergic reaction, leg pain and pus formation..The analysed results were recorded under Results and Discussion. 3.7 EVALUATION Evaluation is the systematic determination of merit, worth and significance of something or someone. Evaluation of samples was tested both objectively and subjectively. 3.7.1 SUBJECTIVE EVALUATION Subjective evaluations is used to judge the merits of the goods and services based on the generalized needs and values along with comprehensive range of effects. General appearance, colour, evenness of dying, luster etc can be evaluated by subjective evaluation .

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON

31

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL

BABY TOPS PLATE 10

BABY TOPS PLATE 11

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON GLOVES PLATE 12

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL GLOVES PLATE 13

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON SOCKS PLATE 14

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL SOCKS PLATE 15

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ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON BABY TOPS PLATE 16

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL BABY TOPS PLATE 17

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON GLOVES PLATE 18

ALOEVERA TREATER WOOL GLOVES PLATE 19

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON SOCKS PLATE 20

33

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL SOCKS PLATE 21

3.7.2. OBJECTIVE EVALUATION Objective evaluation is based on the approach related to fractal properties used to objectively evaluate the surface ruffedness of fabric and its properties. The quality and performance characteristics of fabrics are related to this low stress mechanical property. The effect of Aloevera finish and wetness on the original fabric is inconsistent in terms of direction of increase or decrease depending on the fabric and finish. The objective evaluation gives a quantitative and practical value for evaluating the fabric properties. In investigating the relationship between original and treated fabric, the related physical and surface properties, flexural rigidity, drape and static friction are the major properties that are important in determining the overall handling properties. 3.7.2.1 MECHANICAL TEST The mechanical test such as tensile strength test and elongation,tearing strength, abrasion resistance, crease recovery, stiffness, fabric weight, anti allergic test and deodorizing tests were performed objectively for both original and for aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics. 3.7.2.1.1 TENSILE STRENGTH AND ELONGATION Tensile strength testing is carried out using pendulum lever type tester following constant rate of transverse principle. Cut strip method was carried out by the investigator for 10 samples of 12 * 2 for both warp and weft direction. The cut specimens were gripped in between the stationery and moveable jaws. The dial was pointed to zero point, when the machine was started. The movable jaws tend to move apart from the fixed jaws and at one point the specimen ruptures. At this point the dial reading either in kilograms or ponds were noted and at the same time elongation readings were also noted in centimeters. This procedure was repeated for ten consequtive random samples from cotton and wool (grey and aloevera treated) of both warp and weft directions.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically under Results and Discussion.

34

3.7.2.1.2 ABRASION RESISTANCE The abrasion resistance test is used to determine the wear and rubbing capacity of the fabric. Martindale Abrasion tester is used to test the abrasion resistance of the fabric. . The principle of the abrasion resistance tester is, that it includes a series of mechanism to abrade textile material which provide numerical results which can be corrected with ability service. Abrasion is wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface. Ten samples were cut from different parts of the original and herbal finished sample by using the template. The initial weights of the samples were taken accurately using electronic balance. The samples were mounted on the sample holders in the Martindale abrasion tester using 200 grams weight. The rubs were standardized as 40. The samples were made to rub against the abrandant. After the rubs, samples were removed and weighted. Weight loss due to abrasion was calculated. The loss in weight of each material was recorded separately. The end point of the test is determined by machine. It stops automatically when the end point is reached. The abradents used in various accessories are made of special steel whose abrasive characteristics remain constant. Ten consequtive random samples for both warp and weft directions for grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically under Results and Discussion. 3.7.2.1.3 FABRIC WEIGHT Electronic Weighing balance is used to determine the GSM (Gram per Square Meter) of the fabric. This is direct reading weighing balance. The Weighing balance is calibrated to Log1. The fabric specimen is cut according to the template of 10*5. The specimen is taken and kept in weighing balance and the readings are noted. This procedure was repeated for ten consequtive random samples from cotton and wool (grey and aloevera treated) of both warp and weft directions.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically Results and Discussion. 3.7.2.1.4 STIFFNESS To determine the cloth stiffness in centimeter and to find out flexural rigidity and bending modulus stiffness tester is used. It works on canti-lever principle. The horizontal platform of the instrument is supported by two sides pieces made of plastics. These side pieces have engraved index lines at the standard angle of 41.5 0. There is a mirror attached to the
35

instrument which enables the operator to view both index lines from a convenient position. The scale is graduated in centimeter of bending length and it also serves as a template for cutting the specimens. PROCEDURE Both scales and specimen are placed on the platform with fabric underneath the scale. Both the sample and the scale are pushed forward. The strip of fabric will commence to drop over edge of the platform and the movement of the scale and the fabric is continued. Until the tip of the specimen viewed in the mirror cut both index lines. The inclination of the line being at an angle 41.50. The bending length can be read from the scale mark which coincides with the zero line engraved on the platform. Each specimen tested four times at each end and with the strip turned ones. This procedure was repeated for ten consequtive random samples from cotton and wool (grey and aloevera treated) of both warp and weft directions.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically under Results and Discussion. 3.7.2.1.5 TEARING STRENGTH The Elemendrof tearing tester was designed for testing tearing strength of fabric. The principle of tearing test is determined by measuring the work done in tearing it through fixed distance. The fabric specimen is cut at 100mm length and 75mm width or with the given template. The Elemendrof tearing tester has two clamps, one stationery and other moveable for holding the specimen and for tearing it by the fall of the pendulum due to force of gravity. PROCEDURE The instrument is leveled and adjusted for zero point. The capacity of the instrument is selected so that the specimen tears between 20 and 60 percent of the scale value. The pendulum is raised to the starting position and the pointer is set against its stop. The conditioned test specimen is fixed in the clamps so that it is well centered, with bottom edge set against the marks and the upper edge parallel to the top of the clamps are tightened using approximately the same force on both the clamps. If the slit has not been cut by the die using the knife a 20mm slit is cut in the specimen. The pendulum is then released by depressing the pendulum stop. The stop is held down units after the tear is completed and the pendulum is caught on the return swing by
36

the hand without disturbing the position of the pointer. The reading opposite to the pointer is noted directly. This procedure was repeated for ten consequtive random samples from cotton and wool (grey and aloevera treated) of both warp and weft directions.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically under Results and Discussion. 3.7.2.1.6 CREASE RECOVERY TEST Shirley crease recovery tester is used to determine the crease resistance angle of the cloth in degrees. A specimen is cut from the fabric with template 2 long and 1 width. It is carefully creased by folding in half placing it between two plates and adding 2 kg weights for one minute. After one minute the weight is removed and the specimen is to recover from the crease for same one minute. This is the end point of the test. As it recovers, the dial of the instrument is rotated to keep the free degree of the specimen in line with the knife edge. The recovery angle in degree is noted from the engraved scale. This procedure was repeated for ten consequtive random samples from cotton and wool (grey and aloevera treated) of both warp and weft directions.The obtained readings were analyzed statistically under Results and Discussion. 3.7.2.1.7 ANTI ALLERGIC TEST Patch test that is Contact allergy testing wsa used to test the allergic reaction of the aloevera treated and its respective originals. The fabrics were patched on the normal skin and observed for the specified period of time for the development of the symptoms leding to contact dermatitic allergy. Non hairy part of the skin of the subjects were selected and the surface of the skin was cleaned with cotton swabs dipped in clean water,then the patches of the cotton and wool fabric samples(Plate were made and plastered on the surface of the cleaned skin.The site of patching was observed for any immediate allergic response.For the observations were made up to 24 hours for the symptoms such as reddishness, rashes, irritations, etc.The time of observation was extended for another 24 hours to confirm the effect.The fabrics were subjected to the random volunteers representing three males and three females and the results was recorded in Table XVI under Result and Discussion.

37

SKIN BEFORE PATCH TEST

ALOEVERA TREATED COTTON PATCH ON SKIN

PLATE 22

PATCH 23

ALOEVERA TREATED WOOL PATCH ON SKIN PLATE 24

SKIN AFTER PATCH TEST

PLATE 25

3.7.2.1.8 DEODORIZING ACTIVTIY TEST Organoleptic evaluation of odor control was tested for 48 hrs in house method.The male panelists were each given a control and treated sock daily during the test period. Each sock was to be worn on a specific foot. At the end of a workday, panelists reported to the lab to remove the socks, seal them in plastic bags, and receive socks for the next day. Four odor judges made
38

odor evaluations for 14 hour after removal of the socks on each test day. The judges used individual scoring sheets and new sheets were used every day of the evaluation. The odor grading scale was 0 to 10 (no odor to very intense and disagreeable odor).The result was recorded under Results and Discussion.

39

4. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The results and discussion for the topic A Study Of Aloevera Functional Finish On Selected Cotton And Wool Fabricscomprise the following headings: 4.1 WAPP TENSILE STRENGTH 4.2 WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH 4.3 WARP ELONGATION 4.4 WEFT ELONGATION 4.5 ABRASION RESISTANCE 4.6 FABRIC WEIGHT 4.7 WARP STIFFNESS 4.8 WEFTSTIFFNESS 4.9 WARP TEARING STRENGTH 4.10 WEFT TEARING STRENGTH 4.11 WARP CREASE RECOVERY 4.12 WEFT CREASE RECOVERY 4.13 EVALUATION OF WEAR STUDY 4.14 ANTI ALLERGIC TEST 4.15 DEODORIZING ACTIVITY TEST

40

4.1 WARP TENSILE STRENGTH Warp tensile Strength is used to test the strength of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables IIIa,IIIb and IIIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 1. TABLE IIIa WARP TENSILE STRENGTH FABRICS
MEAN WARP TENSILE STRENGTH (Kg/cm2)

COTTON GREY 18.8000 1.0328 5.4936 -27.66 1.0309** 12.4900** TREATED 13.6000 1.0750 7.9042 GREY 46.700 1.059 2.268

WOOL TREATED 39.2000 0.7888 2.0123 -16.06 17.957** 24.404**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE IIIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WARP TENSILE STRENGTH

41

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 155.200 135.200 20.00 296.950 281.250 15.700

MS 8.168 135.20 1.111 15.628 281.25 0 0.8722

SED

FVale

GRAND MEAN

COTTON Between Groups Error Within grey vs treated WOOL Between Groups

0.471

121.6**

16.20

0.4177

322.4**

42.95

Error
KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE IIIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WARP TENSILE STRENGTH SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 36 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 18.8000 46.7000 32.750 SS 7155.625 403.2250 13.2250 7607.775 Treated 13.6000 39.2000 26.4000 MS 7155.625 403.2250 13.2250 195.0711 Mean 16.200 42.950 29.5750(Grand Mean) F Value 7215.756** 403.613** 13.336** 196.710

KEY:**-Significant at one percent level

It is evident from Table IIIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics for warp tensile strength,grey cotton and wool fabrics had the highest means of 46.700Kg/cm2and18.8000Kg/cm2 respectively.Wool fabric had aleast loss by16.06 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level.
42

When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table IIIb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had the highest warp tensile strength. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table IIIc,grey wool fabric had highest warp tensile strength followed by aloevera treated wool,grey cotton fabric and the least warp tensile strength was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F values stastically revel that it is significant at one per cent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the warp tensile strength. Hence,it could be concluded that grey wool fabric had the highest strength in warp direction. 4.2 WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH Weft tensile strength is used to test the strength of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables IVa,IVb and IVc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 2.

TABLE IVa WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH FABRICS

MEAN WEFT TENSILE

COTTON GREY TREATED

43

WOOL GREY TREATED

STRENGTH (Kg/cm2)

14.3000 0.8233 5.7572 -18.88 7.9048** 7.3636**

11.6000 0.6992 6.0276

36.8000 0.3266 1.0667 -10.60 9.1084** 9.5850**

32.9000 0.2769 0.766

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level.

TABLE IVb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 46.9500 36.4500 10.5000 92.550 76.050 16.500

MS 2.4710 36.4500 0.58333 4.8710 76.0500

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

62.4857* 0.3416 *

12.950

WOOL

Between Groups Error

0.4282 0.9166

82.9636* *

34.8500

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE IVc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Df 1 1
44

SS 4796.100 108.900

MS 4796.100 108.900

F value 6394.80** 145.20**

Within fabrics vs treated Error

1 39 Grey

3.6000 4935.600 Treated 11.600 32.900 22.250

3.6000 126.553 Mean 12.950 34.850

4.800** 168.738

Cotton Wool Mean

14.300 36.800 25.550

23.9000 (Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

It is evident from Table IVa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics for weft tensile strength,grey wool and cotton fabric had highest means of 36.8000kg/cm2 and 14.3000kg/cm2 respectively.Wool fabric had a loss by 10.60 per cent. The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table IVb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had the highest weft tensile strength. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table IIIc, grey wool fabric had the highest weft tensile strength followed by aloevera treated wool,grey cotton fabric and the least strength was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the weft tensile strength. Hence,it could be concluded that grey wool fabric had more tensile strength in weft direction. 4.3 WARP ELONGATION Warp elongation is used to test the elongation and strechability of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables Va,Vb and Vc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 3.
45

TABLE Va WARP ELONGATION FABRICS

MEAN WARP ELONGATION (cm)

COTTON GREY 3.3700 0.1947 5.2185 -53.35 29.6652** 28.8234** TREATED 1.7400 0.0843 4.8464 GREY 3.5800 0.0789 2.2034

WOOL TREATED 2.7100 0.1287 4.7479 -24.30 18.2290** 18.4095**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE Vb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WARP ELONGATION

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18

SS 20.2055 19.8005 0.40500

46

MS 1.06344 19.8005 0.0225

SED

F value

COTTON

Between Groups Error

880.022** 0.0671

2.7350

Within grey vs treated WOOL Between Groups Error

19 1 18

3.9895 3.7845 0.2050

0.2099 3.7845 0.0113 0.0477 332.297** 3.1450

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE Vc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WARP ELONGATION SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 3.7350 3.6550 3.6550 SS 1.6810 20.4490 3.13600 25.8760 Treated 3.1450 2.2250 2.2250 MS 1.6810 20.4490 3.13600 0.6634 Mean 2.7350 1.7400 2.9400(Grand Mean) F value 99.2066NS 12.06.826** 185.0754** 39.1566

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level, NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table Va that when comparing the means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics for warp elongation,grey wool and cotton fabrics had the highest means of 3.5800cm and 3.3700cm respectively.Wool fabric with had a loss by 24.30 per cent. The t value revels that all the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table Vb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had the highest warp elongation. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table Vc,grey cotton fabric had the highest warp elongation followed by grey wool,aloevera treated wool fabric and the least elongation was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric.

47

All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the warp elongation. Hence,it could be concluded that grey cotton fabric had more elongation in warp direction than wool fabric. 4.4 WEFT ELONGATION Weft elongation is used to test the elongation and strechability of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables VIa,VIb and VIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 4.

TABLE VIa WEFT ELONGATION FABRICS

MEAN WEFT ELONGATION (cm)

COTTON GREY 3.5000 0.0816 2.3328 -63.71

48

WOOL GREY 3.1700 0.0823 2.5971 -25.87 TREATED 2.3500 0.0972 4.1354

TREATED 1.2700 0.1160 9.1299

SD CV%
% loss or gain over

original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

49.7264** 49.7264**

20.3591** 25.1073**

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE VIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT ELONGATION

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 25.0455 0 24.8645 0.1810 3.5080 3.3620 0.14600

MS 1.3181

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

0.0440 24.8645 0.0100 0.1846 3.3620 0.0081 0.0403

2472.71* *

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

2.3850

WOOL

BetweenGroups Error

414.49**

2.7600

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE VIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT ELONGATION SOURCE Betweencotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton 3.5000 SS 1.4062 23.2562 4.9702 29.959 Treated 1.27600
49

MS 1.4062 23.2562 4.9702 0.7790 Mean 2.3850

F value 154.81** 2560.32** 547.1835** 84.572

Wool Mean

3.1700 3.3350

2.3500 1.8100

1.8100 2.5725(Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

It is evident from Table VIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey cotton and wool fabrics had the highest means of 3.5000cm and 3.1700cm respectively.Wool fabric had a loss of 25.87 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table VIb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had highest weft elongation. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table VIc,grey cotton fabric had the highest weft elongation followed by grey wool,aloevera treated wool fabric and the least elongation was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the weft elongation. Hence,it could be concluded that grey cotton fabric had more elongation in weft direction. 4.5 ABRASION RESISTANCE Abrasion Resistance is used to test wear and rubbing strength of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables VIIa,VIIb and representation is shown in Figure 5. TABLE VIIa ABRASION RESISTANCE FABRICS GREY COTTON TREATED
50

VIIc and its graphical

WOOL GREY TREATED

MEAN ABRASSION (%)

19.0080 0.9461 4.9772 1.06 0.5611** 0.5430**

19.2100 0.6332 3.2964

5.1800 0.2860 5.1800 -47.10 25.8801** 24.6198**

2.7400 0.0843 2.7400

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE VIIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR ABRASION RESISTANCE FABRICS

GRAND MEAN

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 0.09083 0.02040 0.7043 30.5680 29.7680 0.8000

51

MS 0.0478 0.20202 0.0391 1.6088 29.7680 0.04444

SED

F value

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

0.0885

5.2138**

19.1090

WOOL

BetweenGroups Error

0.0943

669.780* *

3.9600

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE VIIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR ABRASSION SOURCE Between cotton vswool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 19.0080 5.1800 12.0940 SS 2294.922 12.5216 17.4504 2326.398 Treated 19.2100 2.7400 10.9750 MS 2294.922 12.5216 17.4504 59.6512 Mean 19.1090 3.9600 11.534 (Grand Mean) F 54918.49** 299.6477** 417.5960** 1427.4806

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

It is evident from Table VIIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,aloevera treated cotton fabric had the highest mean of 19.2100% followed by grey wool fabric having a mean of 5.1800%.Cotton fabric had a gain of 1.06 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table VIIb,alovera treated cotton fabric and wool grey fabric had more abrasion resistance. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table VIIc, alovera treated cotton fabric had more abrasion resistance followed by grey cotton fabric, grey wool fabric and the least abrasion resistance was noted in aloevera treated wool fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one per cent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the abrasion resistance.

52

Hence,it could be concluded that aloevera treated cotton fabric had an increasc in abrasion resistance. 4.6 FABRIC WEIGHT Fabric weight method is used to test the GSM of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables VIIIa,VIIIb and VIIIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 6.

TABLE VIIIa FABRIC WEIGHT FABRICS

MEAN FABRIC WEIGHT (g/cm2)

COTTON GREY 102.9810 0.9980 0.9691 19.29 24.0605** 29.5630** TREATED 122.8410 2.4119 1.9634 GREY 10.0337 1.1604 11.5650

WOOL TREATED 12.2127 0.6331 5.1836 21.72 5.2128** 6.5267**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue- paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

53

TABLE VIIIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR FABRIC WEIGHT FABRICS

GRAND MEAN

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19

SS 2033.41 6 1972.09 8 61.3187 39.4658 23.7402 15.7256

MS 107.0219

SED

Fvalue

0.8254 1972.098 3.4065 2.07715 23.7402 0.8736

COTTON

BetweenGroups

578.9053* *

1 18 19 1 18

112.911

Error Within grey vs treated WOOL BetweenGroups Error

0.4180 27.1736**

11.1232

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE VIIIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR FABRIC WEIGHT SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 102.9810 10.0337 56.5074 SS 103607.562 1214.293 781.5444 105680.444 Treated 122.8410 12.2127 67.5269 MS 103607.562 1214.293 781.5444 2109.754 Fvalue 484111.956** 567.3943** 365.1866** 1266.1676 Mean 122.9110 11.1232 62.0171(Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

54

It is evident from Table VIIIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.Aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics had the higest means of 122.8410 g/cm2 and 12.2127g/cm2.Wool fabric had a gain of 21.72 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table VIIIb,alovera treated cotton and wool fabrics had a highest fabric weight and the least weight was found in grey fabrics. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table VIIIc, alovera treated cotton fabric had more fabric weight followed by grey cotton,aloevera treated wool fabric and the least fabric weight was noted in grey wool fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one per cent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the fabric weight. Hence,it could be concluded that aloevera treated cotton fabric has more weight. 4.7 WARP STIFFNESS Warp Stiffness is used to test the stiffness in warp direction of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables IXa,IXb and IXc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 7. TABLE IXa WARP STIFFNES TESTER FABRICS
MEAN WARP STIFFNESS (cm)

COTTON GREY 1.1400 0.1265 11.0957 TREATED 0.5900 0.0994 16.8547

55

WOOL GREY 1.8100 0.0876 4.8375 TREATED 1.1600 0.1174 10.1189

SD CV%

% loss or gain over original tvalue-general tvalue-paired

-48.25 10.8095** 13.7025**

-35.91 14.0364** 16.1939**

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE IXb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WARP STIFFNESS

GRAD MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 1.7455 1.5125 0.2330 2.3055 2.1125 0.1930

MS 0.091868 1.5125 0.0129 0.1213 2.1125 0.0107

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

0.0509 116.845**

0.8650

WOOL

BetweenGroups Error

0.0463 197.020**

1.4850

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE IXc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WARP STIFFNESS

56

SOURCE Betweencotton vswool Between grey vsfinish Within fabrics vs treated Error

Df 1 1 1 39 Grey

SS 3.8440 3.6000 0.0250 7.8950 Treated 0.5900 1.1600 0.8750

MS 3.8440 3.6000 0.0250 0.2024 Mean 0.8650 1.4850

Fvalue 324.845** 304.225** 2.112NS 17.1073

Cotton Wool Mean

1.1400 1.8100 1.4750

1.1750(Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level,NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table IXa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey wool and cotton fabrics had the highest means of 1.81000cm and and1.1400cm respectively.Wool fabric had a least loss by 35.91 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table IXb,grey cotton and wool fabric had an increase in stiffness. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table IXc, grey wool fabric had more warp stiffness followed by grey cotton,wool alovera treated fabric and the least stiffness was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the warp stifness. Hence,it could be concluded that wool grey fabric had an increase in warp stiffness. 4.8 WEFT STIFFNESS

57

Weft Stiffness is used to test stiffness of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabric is recorded in Tables Xa,Xb and Xc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 8.

TABLE Xa WEFT STIFFNES TESTER FABRICS

MEAN WEFT STIFFNESS (cm)

COTTON GREY 0.8500 0.05850 9.9981 -70.59 18.9737** 15.2128** TREATED 0.2500 0.2500 21.0819 GREY 1.4500 0.0707 4.8766

WOOL TREATED 0.9300 0.0675 7.2575 -35.86 16.8219** 14.4842**

SD CV% % loss or gain over original tvalue-general tvalue-paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE Xb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT STIFFNESS

58

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 1.8900 1.8000 0.0900 1.4380 1.35200 0.08600

MS 0.0994 1.8000 0.0050 0.07568 1.3520 0.00477

SED

Fvalue

GRAND MEAN

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

0.0316

360.000**

0.5500

WOOL

BetweenGroups Error

0.0309

282.9767* *

1.1900

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE Xc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WARP STIFFNESS SOURCE Betweencotton vswool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 36 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 0.8500 1.4500 1.1500 SS 4.0960 3.1360 0.0160 7.4240 Treated 0.2500 0.9300 0.5900 MS 4.09600 3.13600 0.01600 0.1903 Mean 0.5500 1.1900 0.8700(Grand Mean) Fvalue 837.8182** 641.4545** 3.2727NS 38.9371

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level,NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table Xa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey wool and cotton fabrics had the highest means of 1.4500cm and

59

0.8500cm.Wool fabric had a least loss of 35.86 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table Xb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had an increase in stiffness. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table Xc, grey wool fabric had more stiffness followed by grey cotton,aloevera treated wool fabric and the least stiffness was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the weft stifness. Hence,it could be concluded that grey wool fabric had an increase in weft stiffness. 4.9 WARP TEARING STRENGTH Warp Tearing Strength is used to test tearing strength in warp direction of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and fabrics is recorded in Tables XIa,XIb and XIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 9. TABLE XIa WARP TEARING STRENGTH FABRICS
MEAN WARP TEARING STRENGTH (Kg)

COTTON GREY 52.9000 0.8756 1.6552 -19.09 27.1011**

60

WOOL GREY 38.4000 0.5164 1.3448 -25.52 31.3405** TREATED 28.6000 0.8433 2.9485

TREATED 42.8000 0.7888 1.8430

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general

tvalue-paired

32.1179**

30.0062**

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE XIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WARP TEARING STRENGTH

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

Df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 522.550 510.050 12.500 489.000 480.200 8.80000

MS 27.5026 510.050 0.6844 25.7368 580.2000 0.48888

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

0.3727

734.472** 47.8500

WOOL

Between Groups Error

0.3127

982.227**

33.5000

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE XIc TWO WAY ANOVA WARP TEARING STRENGTH SOURCE df SS

61

MS

Fvalue

Betweencotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error

1 1 1 39 Grey

2059.225 990.025 0.2250 3070.775 Treated 42.8000 28.7000 35.7000

2059225 990.025 0.2250 78.7378 Mean

3480.38** 1673.281** 0.3803NS 133.07

Cotton Wool Mean

52.900 38.400 45.650

47.8500 33.5000 40.6750(Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level, NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table XIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,cotton grey fabric had the highest means of 52.9000Kg followed by grey wool fabric having a mean of 38.4000Kg.Cotton fabric had a least loss by 19.09 per cent. The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table XIb,grey cotton and wool fabric had more warp tearing strength. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table XIc, grey cotton fabric had more warp tearing strength followed by aloevera treated cotton,grey wool fabric and the least warp tearing was noted in aloevera treated wool fabric. All the F values of one way and two way annova stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the warp tearing strength. Hence,it could be concluded that grey cotton fabric had an increase in warp tearing strength. 4.10 WEFT TEARING STRENGTH Weft Tearing Strength Test is used to test the tearing strength in weft direction of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and
62

aloevera treated cotton and fabrics is recorded in Tables XIIa,XIIb and XIIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 10.

TABLE XIIa WEFT TEARING STRENGTH TEST FABRICS

MEAN WEFT TEARING STRENGTH (kg)

COTTON GREY 47.6000 0.6992 1.4689 -21.43 25.1530** 31.2310** TREATED 37.4000 1.0750 37.4000 GREY 31.7000 0.6749 2.1292

WOOL TREATED 24.2000 0.7888 3.2595 -23.66 22.8456** 27.9078**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue-paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level.

TABLE XIIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT TEARING STRENGTH

GRAD MEAN

FABRIS

SOURCE

df

SS

MS

SED

Fvalue

63

Within grey vs treated COTTON BetweenGroups Error Withingrey vs treated WOOL Between Groups Error
KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

19 1 18 19 1 18

535.00 28.157 520.20 520.20 14.800 0.8222 0.4055 290.95 15.313 281.25 281.25 0.3283 521.90** 0.5388 0.5388 27.950 632.675* * 42.500

TABLE XIIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT TEARING STRENGTH SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error Df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 47.6000 31.7000 39.6500 SS 2117.025 783.2250 18.2250 2942.975 Treated 37.4000 24.2000 24.2000 MS 2117.025 783.0250 18.2250 75.4608 Mean 42.5000 27.95000 35.2250(Grand Mean) Fvalue 3110.73** 1150.86** 26.77NS 110.88

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level, NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table XIIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey cotton fabric had the highest means of 47.6000kg followed by wool grey fabric with the means of 37.4000kg.Cotton fabric had a least loss by 21.43 per cent. The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level.

64

When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table XIIb,grey cotton and wool fabric had more tearing strength. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table XIIc, cotton grey fabric had more weft tearing strength followed by cotton aloevera treated,wool grey fabric and the least warp tearing strength was noted in aloevera treated wool fabric. All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the weft tearing strength. Hence,it could be concluded that cotton grey fabric had an increase weft tearing strength. 4.11 WARP CREASE RECOVERY Warp Crease Recovery was used to test crease recovery of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables XIIIa,XIIIb and XIIIc and its graphical representation is shown in Figure 11. TABLE XIIIa WARP CREASE RECOVERY FABRICS
MEAN WARP CREASE RECOVERY (degree)

COTTON GREY 77.5000 1.7795 2.2961 -13.29 16.7333** 20.7856** TREATED 67.2000 0.7888 1.1733 GREY 82.4000 1.0750 1.3046

WOOL TREATED 74.000 1.5635 2.1128 -10.19 14.000** 12.5375**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue-paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

65

TABLE XIIIb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WARP CREASE RECOVERY

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

df 19 1 18 19 1 18

SS 564.550

MS 29.7131

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

BetweenGroups Error Within grey vs treated

530.450 530.4500 34.1000 385.200 352.800 32.4000 1.8944 20.2736 352.800 1.8000

0.6155

280.0029** 72.3500

WOOL

Between Groups Error

0.6000

196.000**

78.2000

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE XIIIc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR CREASE RECOVERY SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Df 1 1
66

SS 342.225 874.225

MS 342.225 874.225

Fvalue 185.2647** 473.2647**

Within fabrics vs treated Error

1 36 Grey

9.025 1291.975 Treated 78.2000 70.000 70.600

9.025 33.127 Mean 72.3500 78.2000

4.8857NS 17.9337

Cotton Wool Mean

77.500 82.400 79.9500

75.2000(Grand Mean)

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level, NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table XIIIa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey wool and cotton fabrics had the highest means of 82.4000degree and 77.5000degree respectively.Wool fabric had a least loss of 10.19 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table XIIIb,grey cotton and wool fabric had highest warp crease recovery angle. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table XIIIc cotton grey fabric had highest warp crease recovery followed by wool grey,wool treated fabric and the least crease recovery was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric. All the F value stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the warp crease recovery angle. Hence, it could be concluded that cotton grey fabric had more warp crease recovery angle. 4.12 WEFT CREASE RECOVERY Weft Crease Recovery is used to test crease recovery of the grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics.The mean and statistical results of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics is recorded in Tables XIVa,XIVb and XIVc.

67

TABLE XIVa WEFT CREASE RECOVERY FABRICS

MEAN WEFT CREASE RECOVERY (degree)

COTTON GREY 71.6000 0.9661 1.3493 -19.69 22.0205** 26.8065** TREATED 57.5000 1.7795 3.0948 GREY 78.1000 1.1972 1.5329

WOOL TREATED 66.7000 1.2517 1.8766 -14.60 20.8135** 16.6090**

SD CV%
% loss or gain over original

tvalue-general tvalue-paired

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

TABLE XIVb ONE WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT CREASE RECOVERY

GRAND MEAN

FABRICS

SOURCE Within grey vs treated

df 19 1 18

SS 1030.950 994.050 36.900

68

MS 54.2605 994.050 2.0500

SED

Fvalue

COTTON

Between Groups Error

0.640

484.90**

64.55

Within grey vs treated WOOL Between Groups Error

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level

19 1 18

676.800 649.800 27.000

35.6210 649.8000 1.5000 0.547 433.20** 72.40

TABLE XIVc TWO WAY ANOVA FOR WEFT CREASE RECOVERY SOURCE Between cotton vs wool Between grey vs finish Within fabrics vs treated Error df 1 1 1 39 Grey Cotton Wool Mean 71.6000 78.1000 74.8500 SS 616.225 1625.625 18.2250 2323.9750 Treated 57.5000 66.1000 62.1000 MS 616.225 1625.625 18.2250 59.58091 Mean 64.5500 72.4000 68.4750(Grand Mean) Fvalue 347.169** 915.8451** 10.2676NS 33.5713

KEY:**-Significant at one per cent level,NS- Not Significant

It is evident from Table XIVa that when comparing means of grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics,grey wool and cotton fabrics had the highest means of 78.1000degree and 71.6000degree.Wool fabric had a least loss by 14.60 per cent.The t value revels that the samples are significant at one per cent level. When one way ANOVA was compared within and between groups from Table XIVb,grey cotton and wool fabrics had highest weft crease recovery angle. When two way ANOVA was compared between fabrics and treatments from Table XIVc grey wool fabric had the highest weft crease recovery followed by grey cotton,aloevera treated wool fabric and the least crease recovery was noted in aloevera treated cotton fabric.
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All the F values stastically revels that it is significant at one percent level.This indicates stastically that there is a significant difference between grey and aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics which inturn influences the weft crease recovery angle. Hence,it could be concluded that wool grey fabric had an increase in weft crease recovery angle. 4.13 EVALUATION OF WEAR STUDY Wear study was conducted to evaluate the performance of the aloevera treated cotton and wool garment and articles.The results are recorded in Table XV. TABLE XV PERFORMER SHEET FOR EVALUATION OF WEAR STUDY GARMENT AND ARTICLES ALOEVERA TREATED BABY T0PS Comfortable while using Feels fresh Reduces itching effect Reduces allergy Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Controls odour Comfortable while using Feels fresh Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Controls odour Reduces allergy Comfortable while using Feels fresh Reduces itching effect Reduces allergy Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Reduses leg pain Reduses pus formation and controls odour COTTON WOOL 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 5 5 5 5 5 5 4 5 5

ALOEVERS TREATED GLOVES ALOEVERA TREATED SOCKS

KEY: 1-Fair, 2-Acceptable, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent

It is obvious from Table XV,that the wearer felt very comfortable,soft in nature and fresh while wearing the garment and articles because of the aloevera treatment given to the cotton and wool fabric.The subject who used the socks expressed good signs of pain relief from leg and also
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reduced the pus formation as the subject had a cut wound in the leg.The subject felt that the garment and articles were free of odour and had no itching and irritation irritation. Hence, it could be concluded that the aloevera treated cotton and wool garment and articles had an excellent performance. 4.14 ANTI ALLERGIC TEST Patch test is conducted to test the allergic reaction of the aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics with its respective originals.The results obtained is shown in Table XVI. TABLE XVI ANTI ALLERGIC TEST PATCH TEST (CONTACT ALLERGY TESTING) FABRIC SAMPLE SUBJECTS COTTON GREY COTTON TREATED WOOL GREY Irritant reaction Irritant reaction Irritant reaction WOOL TREATED -

Subject 01 (Male / 33 yr) Subject 02 (Male / 28 yr) Subject 03 (Male / 29 yr) Subject 04 (Female / 25 yr)

Subject 05 (Female / 30 yr) Irritant reaction Subject 06 (Female / 28 yr)

Key:(-) : Negative(No Irritation)

From Table XVI,the results shows that there was irritant reaction for some of the cotton and wool grey samples,whereas no irritation was found in aloevera treated cotton and wool samples. Hence,it could be concluded that aloevera treated samples had the best impact and no allergic reaction was found.
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4.15 DEODORIZING ACTIVTIY TEST Organopletic evaluation is conducted to test the odour control of the aloevera treated cotton and wool samples with its respective originals.The results obtained is shown in Table XVII. TABLE XVII DEODERIZING ACTIVITY TEST ORGANOLEPTIC EVALUATION OF ODOR CONTROL AFTER 48 HOURS (IN HOUSE METHOD)
SUBJECTS HT (CM) WT (KG) NAME OF THE SAMPLE JUDGE 1 JUDGE 2 JUDGE 3 JUDGE 4 AVERAGE

Wool Control Subject 01 175/62 (Male/39 yr) Wool Treated Cotton Control Subject 02 170/78 (Male/40 yr) Cotton Treated Wool Control Subject 03 172/81 (Male 28 yr) Wool Treated Cotton Control Subject 04 165/75 (Male/29 yr) Cotton Treated

4 5 2 8 6 5 2 7

6 6 3 6 5 7 2 8

5 4 3 7 5 4 3 8

5 5 2 7 4 4 4 7

5 7 3 7 5 5 3 7

KEY:0Repulsive,1Very Poor,2Poor,3Poorly Fair,4Fair,5Acceptable,6Fairly Good,7Good,8 VeryGood, 9Excellent,10Ideal.

From Table XVII,the results for organolepetic evaluation of odour control shows that when the socks was subjected to 39 and 28 year males, both control and aloevera treated wool socks samples were acceptable for odour controlwhen used by the subjects respectively.Similarly when both aloevera treated and socks were subjected to 40 and 28 year males,both control fabrics of cotton exhibited poorly fair for deoderising activity,where as cotton aloevera treated sample had a good deodorizing activity.Here,it shows that aloevera treated cotton sample had good odour control and aloevera treated wool sample hadacceptable odour control.
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Hence,it could be concluded that the aloevera treated cotton and wool fabrics had good deodorizing activity.

50 GR E Y 45 T R E AT E D 40 ME AN 35 W AR P 30 T E N S ILE 25 E Y S T R E N GT H 20 GR 15 T R E AT E D (K g /cm 2) 10 5 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

MEAN WEFT TENS IL E S TRENGT H (K g /cm 2)

COT T ON WOOL F AB R R ICS

4 0 GREY 3 5 TREATED 3 0 2 5 2 0 1 5 GREY TREATED 1 0 5 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COTTON WOOL FABRICS

WARP TENSILE STRENGTH WEFT TENSILE STRENGTH

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Figure.1

Figure.2

E Y 3.5 GR GR E Y 3 ME AN 2.5 T R E AT E D WE F T 2 E LO N GAT I 1.5 T R E AT E D 1 O N(cm ) 0.5 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COTTON WOOL FABRICS

3.5 GREY GREY 3 MEAN 2.5 TREATED WEFT 2 EL ONGATI 1.5 TREATED ON (cm ) 1 0.5 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COTTON WOOL FABRICS

WARP ELONGATION Figure.3

WEFT ELONGATION Figure.4

20 GREY TREATED MEAN 15 ABRAS IO N 10 RES IS TAN 5 C E (% ) 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y

GREY TREATED

T R E AT E D

MEAN FABRIC WEIGHT (g /cm )2

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

140 TREATED 120 GREY 100 80 60 40 20 TREATED GREY 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

ABRASION RESISTANCE Figure.5

FABRIC WEIGHT Figure.6

GREY TREATED

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

MEAN 1.5 GREY WARP 1 S TIFFNES TREATED S(cm) 0.5 0

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

1.6 GREY 1.4 1.2 WEFT 1 TREATED S TIFFNES 0.8 GREY S (cm ) 0.6 0.4 TREATED 0.2 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COT T ON WOOL F AB ICS

WARP STIFFNESS Figure.7

WEFT STIFFNESS Figure.8

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MEAN WARP TEARING S TRENGT H (Kg )

60 GREY 50 TREATED GREY 40 TREATED 30 20 10 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

MEAN WEFT TEARING S TRENGT H (Kg )

50 GREY 40 30 20 10 0 TREATED GREY TREATED

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

WARP TEARING STRENGTH Figure.9

WEFT TEARING STRENGTH Figure.10

90 GREY 80 GREY TREATED MEAN 70 TREATED WARP 60 C REAS E 50 40 REC OVER 30 Y(d eg ree) 20 10 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

C OT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

GREY 80 70 GREY TREATED MEAN 60 TREATED WEFT 50 C REAS E 40 REC OVER 30 Y(d eg ree) 20 10 0

GR E Y T R E AT E D GR E Y T R E AT E D

COT T ON WOOL F AB R ICS

WARP CRESE RECOVERY Figure.11

WEFT CREASE RECOVERY Figure.12

5 SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

Aloevera is one of the oldest known medicinal plant gifted by the nature.Aloevera treated fabrics has the ability to protect us from basic skin problems which provides relief from skin irritations,rashes,burns and cuts. On the other hand,aloevera treated fabrics supplys body warmth,humidity and freshness to the wearer. For the study,aloevera solution was extracted from the aloevera plant and it was applied on 100 per cent cotton and wool handloom woven fabric of 2s count which are eco-friendly natural fibres.They were subjected to mechanical tests,anti allergic test and deodorizing activity test .Four fabrics namely grey cotton, grey wool,aloevera treated cotton,aloevera treated wool
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fabrics were tested and analyzed statistely .The treated fabrics were converted into baby tops and articles such as gloves and socks and wear study was conducted. The results obtained from the objective evaluation revels that: Grey cotton fabric had an increase in warp crease recovery.The same fabric had an increase in elongation and tearing strength both in warp and weft direction than wool fabrics. Aloevera treated cotton fabric had an increase in abrasion resistance and weight . Wool grey fabric had an increase in warp and weft tensile strength,warp and weft stiffness and in weft crease recovery. Anti-allergic test shows that alovera treated samples had the best impact and no allergic reaction was found and Organoleptic evaluation of odour control shows that the aloevera trated cotton and wool fabrics had good deodorizing activity. From the study,it is proved that alovera treated cotton and wool fabrics are eco-friendly in nature and aloevera finish had made the cotton and wool fabrics soft and gentle and had no irritation or harmful side effects while wearing. Further researches can be made to prove that aloevera cures skin alimments and wounds,improves blood circulation.Aloevera also functions as an anti-septic,anti-bacterial and anti-inflamnatory.

6 BIBLIOGRAPHY BOOKS
Karona.P (2002),Indian Textile Industry,Universal Publishing Corporation,P.26 P.Orman(2006),Technology of Textiles,P.38 A.Albert(1996),Prehistroic Textiles,Wood Head Publication,P.356 S.Delany(2008),Cotton Technology,Greek Publication,P.6

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 Karen B Willing(1999),Woolen Technology In India,Amristar Publication,Chandigar,P. 32 WAR Thomas(2001),The Medicinal Aloevera Queen (2001),P.382 JOURNALS Schwartz Edward(2000),The Indian Textile Jornal,Vol.3,No 6,P.182 Seemanthini KS(1999),Cotton Technology,Vol.10,P.12 WA Shenstone(2008),Aloe Medicinal Care,Vol/Issue 23/18,P.8 WEBSITES http://www.cottonindia.com/asp/index www.answers.com www.google.com http://www.woolentech.com/asp/index www.wikepedia.com www.aloemad.com

APPENDIX I PERFORMER SHEET FOR EVALUATION OF WEAR STUDY GARMENT AND ARTICLES ALOEVERA TREATED BABY T0PS Comfortable while using Feels fresh Reduces itching effect Reduces allergy Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Controls odour
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COTTON WOOL

ALOEVERS TREATED GLOVES ALOEVERA TREATED SOCKS

Comfortable while using Feels fresh Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Controls odour Reduces allergy Comfortable while using Feels fresh Reduces itching effect Reduces allergy Withstands for more than 8 to 9 washes Reduses leg pain Reduses pus formation and controls odour

KEY: 1-Fair, 2-Acceptable, 3-Good, 4-Very Good, 5-Excellent

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