Wicket The Ewok Amigurumi

Materials: Brown yarn, something a bit tweedy will look good, double knitting (US = between sport and worsted weight) Cream yarn Russet brown yarn Light grey/brown yarn (for head version 1) or Light grey/brown mohair yarn (for head version 2) Small amount of brown and white yarn or embroidery thread for nose and mouth Stuffing 1 pair 9mm black safety eyes Tapestry needle 3.5mm hook (US E hook)

Abbreviations: ch = chain st = stitch or stitches sc = single crochet (US), double crochet (UK) hdc = half double crochet (US), half treble (UK) ss = slip stitch tog = together FO = fasten off sc2tog = decrease by working two sc together Special stitches: 3 dc pop: popcorn stitch for toes. Work 3 dc into 1 sc, take hook out leaving loop, put hook through 1st dc & pull loop through. 3 dc bob: bobble stitch for fingers. Work first part of dc 3 times into 1 sc, leaving 4 loops on hook, pull through all 4. Wicket is made from the bottom up, mostly working in rounds. Do not join rounds, use a stitch marker to mark the start of a round - a small piece of different coloured yarn placed under the stitch at the start of the round will do. To start a round, you can use the magic ring method, but I prefer (ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch). If you work the 6 sc over the tail of yarn as well you can use that to pull the hole tight. Foot (make 2): Start with cream yarn. Round 1: Ch2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: 2 sc in each st around - 24 st. Toes (partial round) [3 dc pop in next st, sc in next st] 3 times. Change to brown yarn and reset the start of the round. Round 4: [sc2tog] 9 times, sc in next 6 st - 15 st. Round 5 7: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around 15 st. Left foot only: Round 6: [2 sc in next st] 3 times, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times 24 st. FO, leaving a longish tail of yarn. Right foot only: Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times, [2 sc in next st] 3 times, [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 3 times 24 st. Do not FO. To join feet together: first mark the left foot at the 7th stitch along, mark the right foot at the 17th stitch. Round 7: continuing on right foot [sc in next st] 12 times. Join left foot at 7th stitch [sc in next st] 20 times. Join right foot at 17th stitch [sc in next st] 8 times 40 st.

Sew gap of 4 sc together with yarn from left foot. Round Round Round Round Round Round Round Round leaving 8 9: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around 40 st. 10: [Sc2tog, sc in next 8 st] 4 times 36 st. 11: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 6 times 30 st. 12 15: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around 30 st. 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 6 times 24 st. 17 20: (4 rounds) Sc in each st around 24 st. 21: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times 18 st. 22 23: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around 18 st. FO, enough yarn to sew head and body together.

Head and ears two versions: This is the head I made the first time, which needs some embroidery to give the grey fuzzy face effect.

Head version 1: Start from top, using brown yarn: Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st. Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st. Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st. Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st. Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st. Round 7 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around 36 st Fit eyes between rounds 7 and 8. Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 6 times 30 st. Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 6 times 24 st. Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times 18 st. FO.

Partially stuff the head to give it some shape and then embroider the features. It helps to look at photos of the real Wicket. Use brown yarn or thread for the nose and mouth and white for the teeth if wished. I did the nose with horizontal lines ending with 3 separate parts to give the effect of nostrils. For the mouth I did 2 horizontal lines, then embroidered vertically over each of them to make the lips. The teeth are little vertical lines. Use the light grey/brown yarn to embroider little lines to look like the fur on Wickets face. Stuff more firmly. Ears version 1 (make 2): Using brown yarn: Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 10 st. Round 3 5: (3 rounds) Sc in each st around 10 st. FO, leaving enough yarn to sew to head. Use the light grey/brown yarn to embroider little lines on the tips of the ears to look like the fur on Wickets ears. -----------------------------------------------------------------------This is the second type of head I tried, using mohair for the face.

Head version 2: Start from the front of the face, using mohair yarn: Round 1: Ch 2, work 6 sc into 1st ch - 6 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 12 st.

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, sc in next st] 6 times - 18 st. Round 4: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 st] 6 times - 24 st. Round 5: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 st] 6 times - 30 st. Change to brown yarn. Round 6: [2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st] 6 times - 36 st. Round 7 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around 36 st. Fluff the mohair up a bit using a wire brush and then fit the eyes between rounds 3 and 4. Round 13: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 6 times 30 st. Round 14: [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 st] 6 times 24 st. Round 15: [Sc2tog, sc in next 2 st] 6 times 18 st. Round 16: [Sc2tog, sc in next st] 6 times 12 st. Round 17: [Sc2tog] 6 times 6 st. FO, leaving a tail of yarn Partially stuff the head to give it some shape and then embroider the features. It helps to look at photos of the real Wicket. Use brown yarn or thread for the nose and mouth and white for the teeth if wished. I did the nose with horizontal lines ending with 3 separate parts to give the effect of nostrils. For the mouth I did 2 horizontal lines, then embroidered vertically over each of them to make the lips. The teeth are little vertical lines. Stuff firmly and sew the hole up neatly. Ears version 2 (make 2): Using mohair: Round 1: Ch 2, work 5 sc into 1st ch - 5 st. Round 2: 2 sc in each st around - 10 st. Round 3: Sc in each st around 10 st. Change to brown yarn. Round 4 5: (2 rounds) Sc in each st around 10 st. FO, leaving enough yarn to sew to head. Fluff the mohair up a bit using a wire brush, you might need to trim it if its too long. Arms, from fingers up (make 2): Start with cream yarn. Fingers are not worked in rounds. Ch 5, turn, miss 1st two ch, [work 3 dc bob and sc into next ch] 3 times. Change to brown yarn, ch 1, turn. [Work sc into next st] 6 times, turn work, [2 sc into other side of initial ch] 3 times 12 st. Round 1 5: (5 rounds) Sc in each st around 12 st. Round 6: [Sc2tog, sc in next 4 st] 2 times - 10 st. Round 7 12: (6 rounds) Sc in each st around 10 st. FO, leaving enough yarn to sew to body.

Stuff the body firmly and sew the head and body together. Stuff the arms a little and sew them to the body. Sew the ears to the head.

Hood: This might be simpler to make out of felt, but here are the instructions to crochet it. I would recommend that you do lots of checking to make sure it fits as you go along. When I say left or right Im referring to Wickets left- or right-hand side.

Front, top half: Using russet brown yarn, make the front top and sides first, starting at the bottom left-hand side just above the shoulder. Row 1: Ch 24, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch, ch 1, turn 23 sc.

Row 2: Sc into each st, ch 1, turn 23 st. Row 3: Sc into each st 23 st. Now to join the ends to make the front bottom part of the hood: ch 8, work 3 sc into the edge of the other side, ch 1, turn. Front, bottom half: To make the front of the hood below the face: Row 1: Work 1 sc into each of the next 3 st, work 8 sc over the ch 8, work 3 sc into the edge on the left-hand side, ch 1, turn 14 st. Row 2 -3: Sc into each st, ch 1, turn 14 st. Row 4: Sc2tog, sc into next 12 st, ch 1, turn 13 st. Row 5: Sc into next 11 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 12 st. Row 6: Sc2tog, sc into next 10 st, ch 1, turn 11 st. Row 7: Sc into next 9 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 10 st. Row 8: Sc2tog, sc into next 8 st, ch 1, turn 9 st. Row 9: Sc2tog, sc into next 5 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 7 st. Row 10: Sc2tog, sc into next 3 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 5 st. Row 11: Sc2tog, sc into next st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 3 st. FO.

Back: Make the back of the hood starting at the top. Row 1: Ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in each remaining ch, ch 1, turn 4 st. Row 2: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 2 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 6 st. Row 3: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 4 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 8 st. Row 4: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 6 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 10 st.

Row 5: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 8 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 12 st. Row 6: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 10 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 14 st. Row 7: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 12 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 16 st. Row 8: 2 sc in next st, sc into next 14 st, 2 sc in next st, ch 1, turn 18 st. Row 9 - 11: Sc into each st, ch 1, turn 18 st. Row 12: Sc2tog, sc into next 14 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 16 st. Row 13: Sc2tog, sc into next 12 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 14 st. Row 14: Sc2tog, sc into next 10 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 12 st. Row 15: Sc2tog, sc into next 8 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 10 st. Row 16: Sc2tog, sc into next 6 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 8 st. Row 17: [Sc2tog] 2 times, sc into next 4 st, ch 1, turn 6 st. Row 18: Sc2tog, sc into next 2 st, sc2tog, ch 1, turn 4 st. Row 19: Sc2tog, sc into next 2 st 3 st. Do not FO. You are now facing the right side. Sew the front and back together, leaving holes for the ears. Oversew around the face hole to neaten it a bit. Pick up the yarn where you finished row 19 and slip-stitch around the bottom edge of the hood, front and back, for neatness. You can also do a few large stitches with the brown yarn to make it look like the stitches on the real thing. Neaten up any remaining ends of yarn. Put on Wickets head!

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