Knitwear Production Planning P

(Part-II) STITCH CLASSIFICATION

as per ISO4915:1991

Stitch Classes Stitch Class-100(Chain Stitch)

It is formed with one or more needle threads and has for its general characteristic intralooping. A loop or loops of thread or threads get passed through the material and secured by intra-looping with succeeding loop or loops. Description Cost Durability Appearance Comfort Simple chain stitches, intralooped Very inexpensive Flexible/extensible Plain on face, single chain on back Less comfortable than 300

Limitations Unravels too easily for use in quality apparel, used for temporary stitching Special features Uses only one thread

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION

Knitwear Production Planning P

Stitch Type-101
Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and intra-looping on the underside of the seam with the assistance of a spreader. Use Attaching buttons and sewing some button -Closing bags of sugar, grains, etc. holes.

Stitch Type-103
Stitch is formed with one needle thread intra-looped on the top surface of material. The thread passes through the top horizontally through portions of the bottom completely penetrating it the full depth. Use Blind stitch Hemming in formal trousers

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION

Knitwear Production Planning P

Stitch Type-105
This stitch gets formed with one needle thread passes through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on the either side of a center line .The thread gets intra-looped with itself on the surface of the material at the center line. Use: Lining attachment with body for sleeves, in suits

Stitch Class-200 (Hand Stitch)

It is formed by hand with one or more needle threads and for general characteristics each thread passes through the material as a single line of thread and the stitch is secured by the thread passing in an out of the material or by intra-looping

They are also done by machine now days. Description Hand stitches/machine simulations, one thread up and down through fabric Cost Expensive compared to machine stitches

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION

Knitwear Production Planning P Durability Machine is more durable Appearance Machine is more uniform, hand may be less noticeable Limitations Decorative and specialty uses, not used for structural seams Special Most are made on specialty features machines Stitch Class-300(Lock Stitch) It is formed with two or more threads and for general characteristics the interlocking of the two groups. Loops of the first group are passed through the material where they are secured by the thread or threads of the second group to form a stitch. Description Lockstitches, interlocked Cost Higher labour costs due to bobbin replenishment. Durability Strong, not very extensible Appearance Seams do not grin but tend to pucker, reversible Comfort Very comfortable, flat, non bulky Limitations Bobbin replenishment, low productivity, not very extensible Special features Hard to unravel, most widely used

Stitch Type- 301

Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same at top & bottom. Use- Top stitching along collars, cuffs and front of jackets most popular in stitching for setting zippers and setting pockets for backstitching

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION

Knitwear Production Planning P

Stitch Type-304
Stitch is formed with a needle and a bobbin that are set in the center of the seam and form a symmetrical zig- zag pattern. Also, used to identify bar tacking and lockstitch button sewing and buttonholing. UseIntimate Apparel, Athletic wear, Infant-wear, appliqus, attach lace on lingerie and faggotting

Stitch Type-308
Two Step Zig- Zag (Use: Same as 304)

Stitch Type-315
Three Step Zig- Zag (Use: Same as 304 )

Stitch Type-309
Mocasino Stitch :- There are two needle and one bobbin thread. Loops of needle threads gets passed through the material and interlaced with bobbin thread. The interlacing shall be left on the underside of the material. Use: Widely used in shoes.

Stitch Class-400(Multithread chain stitch)

It is formed with two or more groups of threads and for general characteristic the interlacing and interlooping of the loops of the two groups. Loops of the first group

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION

Knitwear Production Planning P of threads passe through the material and are secured by interlacing and interlooping with loops of the second group to form a stitch.

Stitch Class-400(Multithread chain stitch)

Description Cost Durability Appearance Comfort Limitations Special features Multithread chainstitches, interlooped Labor costs less than 300 but requires more thread Strong, more extensible than 300 less likely to pucker than 300. Slightly less comfortable than 300 unless soft thread is used, bulkier than 300 Can abrade, catch, and unravel easily Gets combined with 500 in most safety stitches

Stitch Type - 401 Stitch formed by 1-needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1-looper thread and pulled up to the underside of the seam. Use- lapped side seams of woven shirts and jeans, setting sleeves and attaching elastic

Aug 2010

STITCH CLASSIFICATION