INTRODUCTION-

The lingerie market in India is still in its infant stage and, until in recent times, the
accessibility of high quality intimate apparel was limited to irregular or grey imports sold
under the counter. Because of the limited products and lack of enough specialized and
organized retail atmosphere, the fashion realization and quality awareness of the Indian
consumer for intimate apparel is yet to be realized.

India is also one of the most scattered retail markets in the world. The products, so far,
have been mainly marketed as a commodity and are price and margin oriented. Till today
huge quantities of bras are sold to end users by male salespersons in mom-and-pop shops.
Majorities of the stores do not even provide a trial room.

As a consequence, large consumer base are not sure of the functional features of a bra or
even their own sizes. When Gokaldas Intimatewear began developing Enamor, their first aim
was good fit. Across India Enamor surveyed and measured 4,000 women. They noticed that
80 per cent of Indian women wore a uncomfortable fitting underwear. In India, bras were
made only in B and C cup sizes, though Enamor's research found that most Indian women
required A or D cup sizes.
In India Triumph, Lovable Lingerie, Enamor, VIP, Juliet, Amul etc are major players in
lingerie market. Today 70 per cent of the lingerie market of India is unorganised. But that
can be replaced with the increase in the number of malls and quality-conscious consumers.
For example, Lovable's growth of 20 per cent last year was sustained by new retail space.

The joint market contribution of the leading five retailers in India totals less than two per
cent. Though, Lingerie sales have increased by 12 per cent in the past five years because of
a new awareness of intimatewear. Women's innerwear industry in India is worth Rs. 2,000
crore and is growing at an average rate of 12 per cent.

Turkey and Bangladesh have already observed the potential and are aggressively promoting
its innerwear industry. Many Asian countries are defeating India in the US, the world's
biggest clothing importer. According to the US office of Textiles and Apparel, in 2002 the
country imported 198,094,426 dozen pieces of cotton underwear. India's contribution in this
was a paltry 2.36 per cent. In bras using manmade material, the US imported 37,676,800
dozen pieces. While China constituted 32 per cent of these, Indonesia had 10.5 per cent.
Even Bangladesh had 1 per cent. However, India exported a meager 0.65 per cent. Though,
there is a great potential to be taped if approached in an organized manner with a proper
set up.

Womenswear : the most profitable segment

The Rs.28,375-crore womenswear apparel segment covers 32.1 percent share of the Indian
apparel market in value terms. In volume terms, market share of womenswear is one
percent greater than that of menswear but in value terms its share is five percent less than
that of menswear due to branded segment in womenswear was practically non-existent till a
few years back. At present, it is the most profitable segment for investment. During 2005,
volumes increased by 5.5 percent while value appreciation was as high as 15 percent.
Women's trousers and skirts category observed a highest growth during 2005, volumes
growing nine percent and value appreciating more than 23 percent over 2004 levels.
Western wear like suits and blazers and Lingerie are the two other categories where
progress was excellent, volume and value growth being 10 and 21 percent respectively in
the Western wear and 6.8 and 18.1 percent in lingerie.

In early days the Indian women mostly trusted foreign products or directed their friendly
corner tailors to stitch form-fitting bodice, which were worn under dresses. But now the
scenario is different. The first trendy movement for both men and women was seen when
Associated Apparels Pvt Ltd, producers of Liberty shirts, introduced the world famous
Maiden Form bras, Jockey men's underwear and Jantzen swimwear in 1962 in India.

It was a lanky period for Liberty shirts with complexity in imports and the export market
initiation, so the late Bhawandas Wadhwani approached the lingerie business with technical
knowhow from the USA. The brands got an achievement of optimum level with their styles
and quality. But due to the government's restrictions for foreign brands, Wadhwani
discontinued the overseas tie-up and changed the names to Libertina for lingerie and Liberty
for men's underwear in the late 70s. From 80s to 90s the company focused on
undergarments. Even today Libertina and Liberty are still one of the major players in the
lingerie market.

With the great triumph of Libertina and Liberty, other Indian companies also shifted into the
lingerie markets. In the 70s Peter Pan from Dawn Mills entered in the market with lingerie
styles of the West. The brand was popular amongst the Indian women, but two decades
later it vanished from the market.

In 1971, VIP entered the men's underwear market with a big-bang and became the most
talked about brand due to its advertisement featuring model Dalip Tahil. Since then VIP is a
leading player in the men's and women's underwear market. VIP launched Petals, a Lycra
moulded cup bra with motifs, which was accepted well at that time, but was later
discontinued. But introducing Loveable in 1996 was a huge success as they brought in a
foreign brand, but it was made in India. Lovable was followed by Feelings, VIP's domestic
products and Daisy Dee another foreign brand. The very ultra Vanity Fair was introduced in
2004 and lastly a Korean Brand Try for men and women in 2004. VIP's fashionable new
men's innerwear called Frenchie X was targeted to meet the challenges thrown by the
foreign brands.

Another leading brand in the lingerie market is Rupa & Co established in 1985. Its variety of
men's, women's and children's underwear put together makes it India's biggest innerwear
manufacturer and seller. Besides these two brands there are other labels produced by them.
Amul, Lux Cozi, Dollar are some of the brands catering to a particular segment of the men's
underwear market, while the lingerie segment has its own local offerings like Neva,
Bodycare, Softy, Lady Care, Little Lacy, Red Rose, Sonari, Feather Line and many more.

In the 90s Jockey re-entered the Indian market followed by Calida and Liberti Blu. Then the
very high fashion Gossard existed for a limited time. In the 21st century, Enamor, another
foreign brand entered the Indian market through Gokaldas Exports and the very chic French
brand Aubade started its only outlet in Mumbai. La Senza is the next foreign brand that is
set to enter the market while Hanes has already set with a very unconventional ad
campaign targeted to comfort for the Indian male.
One of the leading foreign players in the Indian lingerie market is Triumph. They have a
presence in 150 countries around the world and a turnover of US $2 billion with a
production of over 200 million units annually, producing 6000 new fashion styles per year
designed by 200 designers in 11 countries. Triumph started its operation in India in six
metros, and is now spread in 45 cities. As far as lingerie is concerned, India is still in its
initial stage. India has to wait to become a matured market as compared to the other Asian
markets like Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, China and Vietnam. In the last three years there
has been a great growth in the business but the retailing of lingerie and distribution
channels are limited. Triumph markets through retailers, MBOs, and two franchisees in
Mumbai and Kolkata, and further more they are going to increase in the near future. From
300 outlets in India they target to cross 1,000 outlets in three-five years. With all raw
materials imported from Europe, Triumph is produced in Chennai and has gained a 50 per
cent raise in sales since it came into the country. Though, Triumph is the only internationally
managed brand, it also aims to satisfy Indian buyers and has the capability to source
intelligent fabrics not offered in India. Triumph was the first to introduce moisturising fabrics
with Aloe Vera and the one-piece bra which is produced by one piece of fabric. The sizes and
styles are very particular to Indian consumers. Triumph which begun production in India in
1998 has been exporting to the USA before it came into the local market. With 80 per cent
exports and 20 per cent local sales in India, Triumph adds new products and concepts for 5-
10 styles each year.

Lately, well-known international lingerie brands - Aubade - from the fashion capital of
France has entered in Indian market.

While the international lingerie outlook is as exciting and bright as the outerwear one,
India's growth in the former segment can be called just about negligible. Body and beach
fashion shows are showcased twice a year around the world showing the latest trends in
innerwear fashion. New underwear fabrics with 'anti' treatment like anti-stress, anti-smog,
anti-static, anti-allergic, anti- bacterial, anti-moisture and anti-odour pamper the body. Top
European products like Bruno Banani, Excellent, Schneider, Louis Feraud, Calvin Klein,
Gianfranco Ferre, DKNY, La Perla, Gossard, and Schiesser are some of the brands that set
their inspiration to the ultimate test. Thanks to the new outerwear performance made by
designers around the world and India, lingerie is seemed with renewed fascination in India
too.

It may be shocking that there are 1000 Indian brands in the market but only 200 are
nationally active. The others cater to markets in the vicinity of their production. Many of
these brands have so far continued the advent of MNC labels for the last decade and should
continue to do so.

The Indian lingerie Industry is growing because of the increasing domestic demand coupled
with huge export potential. It will soon receive an upfront position. From a cottage industry
it can be transformed into a growing trade. Indian brands have experienced that they have
to be more quality conscious and work harder in branding, promotion, packaging and
innovation. Only the mindset to make world class lingerie is lacking. Smaller countries like
Sri Lanka, Turkey and Bangladesh are major producers in this segment. Indian companies
have recognized the significance of innerwear for men and women and the competition is
just boiling as new and more players arrive to offer Indians that much required fashionable
lift.

Sources
http://ezinearticles.com/?Scenario-Of-Intimatewear-Market&id=371722