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IN THE SPELL OF NORWEGIAN GRAYLING

by Hans van Klinken

Abstract
When I look back to my Norwegian fishing trips my heart directly starts to beat faster.
As soon as I arrive in Scandinavia I always feel as if I come home and it really hurts
when I have to leave the countries again. I think those feelings gives you the best
impression how much I like the wonderful fishing paradises in the north. During all the
years I visit Scandinavia, Norway became a second home for me. When I think about
Norway I see the fjords, mountains and mighty rivers as clear as if I am really standing
there. The midsummer night has always fascinates me and is a welcome bonus for many
extra fishing hours. When I think about all the fishing, it’s the "Lady of stream" that
impressed me the most. The Norwegian grayling is my favorite by far and I have a
strong personal tie with her. Of course there are hundreds of rivers in Scandinavia that
produce excellent grayling fishing, so let me tell you why it is just the Norwegian
grayling that drove me crazy. It actually happened in 1981 when I fished the River
Sömåa in Eastern Norway and caught my biggest ever grayling on a pattern called
Rackelhanen. It was a beautiful fish and I never broke the record again. I only match
the unbelievable size of 61cm ones more in 1984 and almost again in 1989 when I
caught a 59.4cm male. However, the memories of my first "black grayling" are the
strongest. I never had seen such a dark coloured and large grayling before. She was
well hooked and started to bleed when I took out the hook. When I released her, she
turned her head as if she looked at me before she slowly disappeared into the dept
again. If she really watched me I still don’t know but it made such a big impression on
me that my passion for grayling became a fact. I knew I must hurt her and from that
moment I learned another lesson; I never used a barbed hook anymore to temp the lady
of the stream.

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Where to fish
This is a very difficult question because there are so many good places to fish. The best
suggestion I can give you is to buy a good map of Norway and Sweden. Then drawn a
huge circle between the places Rena, Folldal. Nybergsund, Idre (Sweden), Funäsdalen
(Sweden), Brekken and Röros The result will be an area in which you will find one of the
best wild grayling fishing in Europe. The two most important river systems will be the
Glåma (Glomma) and Trysilelva (Klara in Sweden). To get the best impression about
Norwegian grayling fishing I only can advice you to follow both rivers upstream to the
north as far as you can. Try all tributaries you meet and don’t forget the dozens of
smaller rivers in the upper parts. This is exactly what I did and how I found my favourite
spots during the last 20 years. Start your research for the Glomma in Rena and follow
the Klara from the place called Edebäck. With your journey the experience and catches
will improve slowly but day by day!

How it all started

In 1980 I discovered a few important "rules" that became the key for my Scandinavian
grayling fishing. One of them was covering long distances beside riverbanks and through
the forest. Make miles and you are sure you will hit many hot spots! I walked many
miles when I followed the Klarälven (Sweden) upstream and camped out beside the
river. I worked my way up north slowly and explore the river with the little knowledge I
had built up above the Arctic Circle. At some days I walked more then 7 miles. During
the fishing the silence and peace beside the river brought me very close to nature and
wildlife. Those days I only used dry flies and my catches were not plentiful but I enjoyed
every single minute of it. Of course we all like to catch fish and it gives you an
enormous satisfaction when you see a fish coming up and take your fly from the surface
but for me fly-fishing became a little more then just catching fish. We all like a good and
strong fight with many jumps and I am happy that more and more people start to enjoy
the releasing afterwards too. I discovered that catches and playing are very important to
build up your skill but I also noticed that they are not the most important to be a good
fly fisherman. Maybe that’s why I am not competitive at all. A simple animal behaviour
at the waterside can make my day too. I still remember the day I saw a beaver playing
with their cubs and I simply forgot the evening rise. I learned quickly and the longer
distances I covered the more feeling I got with the river, nature and wildlife. Each day
brought me closer to Norway and time and distances taught me how to improve my
catches for the larger grayling. Sometimes I couldn’t handle the river, especially when
catches stay out or when I couldn’t reach the feeding fish. Instead of getting frustrated I
just took a longer brake by setting me down and eat my lunch while I glance at the
river. I watched rising fish for hours and it gave me new inspiration and many ideas. I
started to recognise holding places, food seems, and feeding lies and learned how to
read the river. My casting was not very spectacular or far either because I had no
special need for it but therefore I tried to avoid the busy fishing places. Most people
fished the quiet water so my poor distance casting made the broken water and rapids to
my favourite.

However, my big change in fly fishing and fly tying started during the same trip when I
met an old solitary angler who caught a few real big grayling in heavily broken water.
Interested in his skills and achievement I stuck up a conversation at the riverbank. We
had a lot in common and maybe that’s why he became very generous and was willing to
help me with good advices and tips. After a long pleasant talk about flies and techniques
we exchanged some flies and before he left, he gave me a very strange fly named "The
Rackelhanen". It was one of his unsinkable and favourite traditional Swedish sedge
patterns, which he emphatically requested me to try. This size 10 Rackelhanen was a
huge fly and attracted my attention and when I was using it, I obtained nearly the same
success as my Swedish friend had enjoyed.

It was the perfect fly for broken water and strong rapids and in no time the Rackelhanen
was put with my other favourites. Full of confidence I travelled further upstream,
staying at several locations but this time I caught bigger fish until the worst happened: I
lost my new "favourite" fly and had to revert to my old English shoulder-hackled dry
flies again. They were still effective, especially the Red Tag and Greenwell's Glory, but

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the Rackelhanen had achieved so much that there was nothing for it but to make a copy.
After trying several designs I arrived at my "own" version of the Rackelhanen which
seems almost as successful as the original.
I have no idea how my fly fishing life would look today without the discovery of the
Rackelhanen. I can confirm that the success of this creation gave me enormous
self-confidence in making own patterns and stimulated me to start a complete new way
of fly-tying. Big flies seemed the secret to catch the bigger fish and that’s why my
Scandinavian patters increased in size. With my own variations of the Rackelhanen
began my fly fishing obsession and started my fly tying development. For me, the
Rackelhanen is a lot more than just an ordinary fly. Not because of my personal grayling
record but it finally leads me to the development of patterns like the Poly Sedge and
Klinkhamer Special. For me, the 1980 fishing season was one of the most educational
and ended after 4 weeks of intensively fishing as far upstream as the famous rapids
named Isterfossen (Norway). It is close to Lake Femund with the best result a wonderful
51cm grayling. Until then it was my biggest grayling ever and from that moment I knew
my destination for the following years.

The feeders of the Trysilelva

When I returned to the Femund area I changed my fishing strategy too. This time I
choose one location for my base camp. I camp out at Johnsgård a nice camping place
located directly at Lake Langsjöen from which I could cover many new fishing areas. In
all the years we stayed at this place I started to recognise some of the best grayling
waters in central Scandinavia. The four months of completely wilderness experience that
I build up in northern Finland was a great help in my research and exploring. Rivers like
the Sölna, Sömåa, Hola, Röa, Mugga, Femunsdelva and Glöta must be "The Garden of
Eden" for every grayling angler and Lakes like Femund, Sölensjöen, Aresjöen, Isteren,
and Feragen where just a few of many new discovered paradises to me. Most waters are
located between 600 and 1000 meters above sea level and the weather conditions are
tough with an extremely high population of wild and hungry mosquitos. You have to
learn to deal with them first and I guess some people never will or can. This area is what
I believe the grayling like the most. It is a short fishing season but very productive. The
lakes give the grayling very good surviving possibilities during the strong winters and
the will have an excellent food supply too. The insect life is abundant with superb caddis
hatches and many species of upwing flies.

Most of the streams in the area are very similar and they have a large variety in size
and dept. Sometimes you can walk across easily but at other places you only can swim
to get on the other side. To reach the best places you need a long walk or canoe. The
Sömåa River is relative short comparing to the others but it is a wonderful stream with
loads of deep holding pools. Most of the pools and ponds are well feed by nice rapids and
have a beautiful flow out. Perfect conditions for dry fly fishing. The Sömåa flows
between the lakes Langsjöen and Isteren and access to the river is easy because it runs
parallel with road nr 26. That makes the grayling population in this river very
vulnerable for fishing pressure. The River Hola connects the lakes Langsjöen and
Storsjöen. The latter is the largest from several lakes that we known better as the lakes
of Hodalen.

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During the years the Lakes of Hodalen became one of my most favourite lake fishing
spots for grayling in Europe. It is a very tough and rough area with strong windy
conditions but take my advice and fish it at sunny and windless days because only then
you are able to locate the fish. There are some nice bonuses to because my biggest
perch on fly I caught here while grayling fishing.

The lower part of the Sölna River took me long time to explore but the reward was
unbelievable when I finally found five extremely good hot spots. I still remember well
how much effort it took me before I could wet my flies. I had to swim across the
Femundselva and a trip like this would be stupid to repeat in these days. It was one of
my most wonderful experiences from the past. The best way is to fish from the lake
downstream by canoe. Unfortunately there is a road now going from Galtseter to the
East Side of the Sölna and Lake Sölesjöen what surely must have increased the present
fishing pressure.
The rivers Mugga and Röa are located in Femundsmarka National Park north east of
Lake Femund. During my first visits to the Röa I let me dropped off at the mouth by boat
from Sorvika and once I rent a canoe and paddled myself all the way up the mouth of
the river. The Mugga I fully explored by foot started from the place called Langen with
some excellent fishing on the way up at the crossing places in the outlet from Lake
Langtjönn. Both rivers are exclusive wilderness fishing and the only way to be successful
is to camp out and work you way upstream. At this unique and quiet places I always met
one or two "crazy" fishermen and a good chat on the way is essential to improve your
successes.
When you follow all lakes and rivers you will notice that most of them belong to the
same watercourse of the mighty Trysileva. Even Lake Femund and Isteren are connected
by the Glöta River so it is a huge river system and it still has their natural course from
which the largest part isw totally unaffected by humans. With all the space and perfect
living conditions this water produces grayling that grown quickly and fights very well.
That’s another reason for my returning year after year. Unfortunately the excellent
fishing in the Sömåa decreased enormously during the eighties due retains large catches
by too many of the visitors. Today there is New Hope again and catches of larger fish are
improved. A few 50 plus fish were caught in 1998 and released so that they hopefully
can reach the magic size in the year 2000 again!

The Shinning river and it's tributaries

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For the Glomma my

exploring was not much
different but I follow my
way upstream more
quickly because of more
fishing pressure and men
made regulations. I just
past all the areas where
embankment changed the
natural watercourse and
dept. In the early eighties
the River Rena produced
an excellent fishing but
declined and got better
again since the nineties. I
don’t know the reason. It
is one of the most
favourite tributaries by the Danes today. I stayed quiet a long time in the Koppang area
to explore and discover superb fishing in all the channels the river produced. Sometimes
it was a real challenge to find or even reach the main river. I often hooked huge pike
that took my playing fish. Further upstream you will meet the River Atna. It is a
wonderful river but it has been always a great mystery to me. Some years I had
unbelievable catches while at other years I hardly could find any fish at all. It was in this
river were trout fishing become very popular to me! Between the Atna River and the
place Alvdal you never will see many fishermen but I can assure you that there are a
good number of hot spots. The river runs here a bit further from road no 3 maybe that’s
the reason. Not many people seem to like it to walk far distances anymore. In Alvdal I
had a great time especially when I learned how the fish the awesome Folla River. If you
ever fish the Glomma you surely should explore this river and follow it upstream as far
as Sletten. My best fishing pall had his best ever grayling fishing in this river.
Unfortunately he died too soon and we never could fish his favourite place together.

Between Alvdal and Tynset the fishing is less interesting because of huge regulations.
The best place is probably the lower part of the Tuna River especially close to the mouth
of the river before it runs into the Glomma. Sometimes this flow out holds a nice
population of big fish but it is extremely vulnerable for fishing pressure. About 10
kilometres upstream from Tynset you will hit the area of the shining river.

From this area all the way up to the outflow from Lake Rien the Glomma can be
considered as the creme the la creme for the Grayling angler. It is not my own
experience only because in many books you will read exactly the same and they all were
right. The only way to be successful is to get one with the river. Look for the shining
produced by the broken surface water. The area is not only beautiful but also very quiet.
There are just a few peaceful towns in which you can fall in love easily. The people are
extremely nice and friendly and always willing to help you. It is in this area where I
spend most of my time and I surely could live here forever.
I can’t tell you exactly where to go because there are too many places. Some people say
you only should fish between Tolga and Oss but I would suggest stay at least 2 weeks in
the area and explore it yourself. Concentrate at the Glomma first and when it seems
difficult just travel to one of the many tributaries. I only can give a few tips but talk with
other fishermen, have a chat at camping places and try to use all the information you
can get.

Where and how to start fishing the tributaries

For newcomers to this Norwegian grayling paradise the fishing will be extremely difficult
but ones found a way it seems very easy. Most rivers have grayling, trout, whitefish and
even perch and pike. The distances will be the greatest problem and today most
fishermen don’t like to walk with backpacks anymore. Most tributaries flow through large
lakes or just have many little ponds or deep-holding pools in their watercourse but that
can make the fishing much easier, at least if you are not afraid to walk. I usual start at

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an easy access point where I can park my car and prepare myself well. I never will
travel without a backpack filled up with extra fishing equipment, clothing, food and even
some emergency stuff. Drinks are not necessary because the crystal clear water will
supply you well. I just start walking sometimes even 2 or 3 kilometres before I go
fishing. I just look around and watch out mainly for human tracks. I know most people
don’t walk very far anyway. As soon as there are no tracks anymore I start fishing.
Those are the areas where you have the best changes for the bigger fish because many
people still fish for the freezer and where people have been a lot of fish have been taken
out. Often I passed a few fishermen and ask how they are doing. They usually are
enthusiastic about their catches so I just leave them stocking in their pools. They don’t
know what other pools can bring up anyway.

I learned that when a river runs into a small pond or big pool you hit a hot spot. I also
learned that you mostly have only one or two changes to get a real good size grayling.
Never walk into the water before you explore it well and know what you are doing. Look
at the feeding line first and if there are no rises don’t worry. Try to analyse the best
place for your cast and where exactly you want to land your fly. Be sure the fly drift
without any drag. Always start with a huge dry fly and let it float with the edge of the
current into the pool. Make just a few casts and if there is big grayling in a feeding mood
he or she surely will take it. If success stays out try to do the same with a weighted
nymph. In this case cast upstream and use a bite indicator to present the nymph at the
right dept and without drag. It has to drift with the bottom current into the pool and not
with the surface current. Safe a cast with a smaller fly for the way back. Depending
about the size of the pool I never made more then 10 unsuccessful casts. Then I walk
further and try the tail of the pool or I just walk to the next pool. If I succeed I only take
2 or 3 fish out of the pool release them and try again on the way back or at one of the
other days. This way of fishing leads me to some real nice fish and every year I still got
several 50 plus grayling. This is the technique I use to catch the big ones and it works as
I prove to many of my friends who joined me in Scandinavia. Most of them got there
biggest ever grayling too.
Sometimes when you walk from pool to pool the fish started to rise all over the place.
You can start fishing or just try to recognise the feeding lies. I prefer to do both for
those moments the weather change and you have to grab back to nymph fishing only.
Make notes and write down as much information you can find. Times of feeding, weather
conditions and insect life will be a good source for the next time. Places where rivers run
out of lakes are other hot spots. Sometimes the current is very smooth and even if you
try hard it seems impossible to catch anything. At such a moment you surely should try
small emergers or midge imitations.

The equipment
My favourite rod is for the Glomma is a rate 4 up to 9 ft. For the smaller tributaries I
use 8.5 ft 4 piece travel rod weight 4 or 5. It is handy when you have to walk and can
leave it in your backpack until your reach the place you want to fish. I still use the small
"System Two" reel with an olive coloured Cortland Clear Creek floating line. This line is
my favourite by far. It has a nice fine taper and is excellent for windy conditions.
Because of my preferences for huge parachute flies I use a tapered braided leader from
about 9ft-12ft connected with tying thread and waterproof super glue directly on the fly
line . This prevents wind knots during the casting very well. For the tippet I mostly use
0,12mm or 0,14mm Stroft monofilament with lengths up to 2 meters. I have a good
selection of dry flies and nymphs from which you will find the most popular ones on
other pages at this site.

Timing

I prefer to fish in June and September but I don’t like it when it gets dark early. So my
prime time is June. There are not many tourists and the grayling are well feeding.

top

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Pictures by Hans and Ina van Klinken

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Hans van Klinken

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