Colour

By the WGSN What's in Store team, 08 March 2013

Saturated blues

Saturated blues continue to lead the brights palette... Azure and cobalt work for sporty casualwear and block colour knits... Persian blue updates tailoring... Use as a replacement for navy to update classic nautical looks... Coordinating blues in one outfit are a dramatic styling option, as seen at Drykorn

Topman, London

Red
Primary red makes an impact throughout transitional deliveries... Bold scarlet shades add a contemporary feel to suits, cardigans and blousons... Deeper cherry tones work well for leather jackets... Pair with white for sharp contrast

Cinque, Berlin

Saks Fifth Avenue, New York

Grey

Greys lead the neutral palette across both tailoring and casualwear... Light ash looks clean and modern on trench coats and sporty blousons while slate works well for marl T-shirts and fine twill chinos... Wool tweed blazers draw on heritage looks... Grey acid-wash jeans offer an alternative to classic blue

New Look, London

OBSESSION
Neutral, flesh and core colours provide a backdrop to fun seaside shades of blue and green. Simple and straightforward, repetition and obsession boosts creativity.

MIGRATION
Colours bring to mind ropes and sand dunes and are inspired by a luxurious nomadic lifestyle. In contrast, there is a riot of sun-faded Indian-influenced hues mixed with acidic green and yellow.

COMPRESSION
Alternating vintage and futuristic looks, faded rose, warm amber and grating green contrast modern, almost transparent pastels. These shades are seen alongside neutrals of pencil, paper and charcoal.

Monochrome looks and simple neutrals alongside washed pastels, warmed natural red shades and the importance of blue are the key colour messages from the menswear high-street previews.

SHORTCUTS

Monochrome: pristine crisp white and classic black inspires top-to-toe dressing or combine for a key fashion look Neutrals: tones of soft grey and stone have an understated smart aesthetic Browns: warm powdered shades focus on different levels of orange such as paprika, nutmeg and ginger. Natural tones of tobacco and tan add a sophisticated edge Reds: washed salmon shows a new level alongside the fashion red of the season, vermilion and the continuation of deeper bordeaux shades Blues: pale and steel blue are the new fashion shades, while mid-blue and navy are core classics Greens: 1950s-style pastels spearmint and pistachio have a directional, yet commercial feel, while army green combines with simple camouflage prints Yellows: shades of soft and washed-out vanilla and lemon. Fashion brights in tones of yellow from sunrise, to Dijon with more muted mustard shades continuing the classic theme

Analysis

Colour matrix

Levels

Key colours

Summer pastels: men's colour usage

By Douglas Gilbey, WGSN, 08 June 2012 Ice-cream tones add an injection of fresh colour to update summer casualwear styling messages.

VINTAGE ICES

Vintage ice-cream van by Gayle Berry

LAYERED COLOUR-BLOCKING

Source: As seen at beatboxgoesthump.tumblr.com

SOLID COLOUR BASICS

Southern Proper spring/summer 2012

CONTRAST WITH BLACK

Prada spring/summer 2012

SUMMERTIME ESSENTIALS

Source: Attitude, May 2012

WASHED PASTELS

Source: Attitude, May 2012

DECKCHAIR STRIPES

Source: As seen at donfreshly.tumblr.com

Retro beach hut by Gayle Berry

COLOUR PANELLING

Davidelfin spring/summer 2012

PISTACHIO & VANILLA

Richard Chai Love spring/summer 2012

WGSN ANALYSIS

Relevance: vivid summer brights were highlighted as an important colour message on the spring/summer 2012 catwalks, but it is the application of these brights in a more understated way as seen at Acne, Prada, Martine Rose and Richard Chai that is relevant as a summer colour update

Key colours: a spectrum of 1950s-style pastels includes lemon, mango, spearmint, watermelon, pistachio, soft pink and pale blue Usage: solid colour usage is relevant across all product categories. Fresh pastel combinations are accented with denim and chambray, adding a masculine edge. Caramel and toffee levels neutralise the sweeter tones, while black or crisp white contrast as a key anchor

Details: colour-blocking and panelling provide effective commercial application on shirting, with layered sheer fabrics adding a colour filter across more vibrant tones Pattern: retro florals, Hawaiian prints and deckchair stripes are ideal colour vehicles for shirts, T-shirts and shorts Materials: peached cottons and linens in washed and whitened finishes add a vintage mood, while pigment and overdying diffuse intense brights

SATURATED BRIGHTS

Source: As seen at pure-evil.tumblr.com

FILTERED COLOUR

Martine Rose spring/summer 2012

MIX MINT & TOFFEE TONES

Acne spring/summer 2012

Botanical checks
Vibrant tropical yarn dyes update madras shirting, multicoloured graphic checks and performance shell fabrics. Following our Dark Botanica trend, an abstracted botanical palette of lime, turquoise and navy offers a fresh seasonal update. Dobby weave structures add a subtle decorative element that translate well for womenswear and kidswear.

Arco Texteis SA at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Texland & Nexko at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Cataguases at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tessitura Taiana Virgilio at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Bez Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Micro dimensional

Structured, sport-luxe outerwear is softened with micro-piqus, waffles, honeycomb and geometric extraweft floats, illustrated in our Slow Form textile trend. The fabrics are spongy and lightweight with a soft, cotton handle in undyed, neutral tones as well as bright white.

Obradors S.A. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Palateks at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

E. Miroglio EAD / Miroglio Lana at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Forum at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Saydam Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Kivan Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Linen plains

Linen is the fibre of choice for spring/summer 2014 with an abundance of raw, slubbed linens seen in casual flats, relaxed suiting and jacket weights as well as polyester linen imitations for a performance or technical outcome. These fabrics offer a key update to the utility cotton trend seen on the

spring/summer 2013 catwalks.

Elleti Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Elleti Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Toray Industries, Inc. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tejidos Royo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Arco Texteis SA at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Linen shirting

Linen is also incorporated into shirting fabric for slubbed and natural finishes. Soft, laundered linen and cheesecloth make a comeback for relaxed shirts, blouses and dressweights in a soft, natural or sunbleached, faded palette.

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Premium linen by Tamuraxoma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Fralpi Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Deveaux S.A at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Indigo linen

Cotton and linen blends update denim for a slubbed, cross-hatched appearance and dry touch. Undyed linen and indigo cotton blends create a rustic colour update while performance fabrics imitate the slubbed linen effect in technical shell fabrics.

Everest Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Texland & Nexko at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Singtex Industrial Co., Ltd. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lanificio Alma Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

A&A Textile Co. LTD at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Skotas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Shimmer & shine

Minimal Lurex inclusions and soft glitter laminates update cotton flats, bonded outerwear and laminate shell fabrics. Metallic yarn inclusions add a brighter shine and mouldable texture for more directional applications.

Tejidos Royo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Ornek Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Altoteks Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lanificio Alma Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Schoeller Textil AG at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Frizza Spa at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Striped flats

Many mills at Premiere Vision noticed an increased demand for striped denim - a strong commercial trend for bottomweights, casual jackets and utility styles. Classic hickory stripes are favoured but also consider dobby textures, slubbed texture and laminated print effects as seen in our Strata trend.

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Elleti Srl at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Dotty denim

Update chambray shirting, heavy denim and indigo dress-weights with printed polka dots, double-weave spots and spotty dobby cloth patterns for textural surface effects.

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Kipas Casual at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Arvind Limited at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tan Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Forum at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Kipas Casual at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Folk stich

A retro, folk-inspired look is offered through mock leno texture, extra-warp-and-weft patterns and reverse extra-weft floats for casual cotton shirting and dressweights. Colours are either soft and neutral or bold and primary.

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Arsan Textile Group at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Shinkong Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Renauxview at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Renauxview at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Double-faced

Contrasting double-faced fabrics continue to perform well at Premire Vision. For spring/summer 2014, shirting fabrics contrast bold ginghams with plains or tartan, while performance fabrics and thin leathers

are bonded to soft knitwear, and linen and silk/cotton blend denim is bonded to metallic laminates and performance shells.

Arsan Textile Group at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Seiren Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lineasse Tessuti at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Arsan Textile Group at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Hervy Mercier Trading at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Seiren Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Laminate

Matt and shine coatings are still important for casualwear. Fluorescent, rubberised coatings continue to trend for the youth market while coated linens add a rustic look for performance qualities.

Lanfico Becagli at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Coronet Spa at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Frizza Spa at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Kipas Casual at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Prosperity Textile (HK) Ltd. at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Forum at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Luxe natural fibres, a focus on linen and indigo, crisp handles, dimensional structures, and marbled colour were some of the key messages from Premire Vision this season. CLICK for our complete coverage of this season's show.
Colour directions

Clear colour messages drive spring/summer as pastels take on a whitened look, and warm and cool families emerge, looking strong when grouped tonally. New botanicals offer a fresh way of looking at casualwear, and neons evolve into illuminated brights.

Click for PV brands

Select Report

TOP 5 COLOUR DIRECTIONS

Whitened pastels: colours are lightened by laundry effects or the use of white warps or yarn twists softening brighter wefts Aquatic blues: in cool shades of blue and green, from pastels through to brights, are worked in graduated tones Warmed: sunset colours become a key group, from brighter peach tones through to terracotta, rust and blood reds

Natural darks: vegetal shades and traditional dyes are key for casual flats. We also revisit indigo as an essential dark Illuminated brights: neons step back but are still important for activewear. A new level of illuminated bright tones joins them across product groups

Premire Vision colour palette

Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Top 5 colour directions

WHITENED PASTELS
Reflected in the Premire Vision colour palette as well as WGSN's pastel level analysis from our spring/summer 2014 global colour direction, pastels have an almost supernatural whiteness to them.

E.Boselli & C S.p.A at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Dutel Cration and Mantero Seta Spa at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Takisada Osaka at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tejidos Royo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Siulas at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Bossa Denim & Sportswear at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Savyon Industrias Texteis Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Mantero Seta Spa at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lanificio Piemontese at Premire Vision

Aquatic blues

Shades on the blue/green spectrum will continue in importance from autumn/winter through to spring/summer. This colour message is seen across all product groups, with tonal effects on double-face jersey and fancy wovens particularly on trend.

O'Jersey at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Gentili at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Alcantara at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

A&A Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Burce Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Pastels at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Pastels at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Pastels at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Calama Technical Textiles at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Warmed

In line with WGSN's spring/summer 2014 fashion forecast Neo-Geo, we see warmed earthy tones of Terracotta and Henna alongside fiery red shades such as Lava - great for laundered flats as well as densely dyed jersey and rich embellished lace.

Velcorex Since 1828 at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Infinity at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Linea Ross at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Efilan at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lurdes Sampaio at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Getzner Textil AG at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Savyon Industrias Texteis at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Lusi Ricamificio Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Natural darks

Botanical and natural dyes such as Indigo, beetroot and kelp inspire dark yet rich colour. This trend was first seen in WGSN's spring/summer 2014 colour direction, Unsettled Nature, and is also echoed by the indigo, purple and dark green in the Premire Vision palette. Dye effects, merged colour and complimentary hues work well for both fancy and casual product groups.

Soktas Dokuma at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Showa Co. Ltd at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tejidos Royo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Dentelles Andr Laude at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Duksung at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Frantissor Crations and A&A Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Baruche Superfine Cottons at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Tejidos Royo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Trend Forum at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Illuminated brights

These reverberating shades show a subtle move-on from the dominance of neon which can still be seen for activewear. Newer tropical brights, as highlighted in WGSN's Dark Diversions colour theme for spring/summer 2014, are starting to emerge alongside illuminated sportswear brights.

Ospiti Del Mondo at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Everest Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Erca International at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

LMA at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Burce Tekstil at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Everest Textile at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Jersan Knitting at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Inseta at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

Dragoni at Premire Vision spring/summer 2014

The latest materials trade show reports

S/S 14: Intertextile Beijing brands

S/S 14: SPINEXPO trend analysis

S/S 14 : Kingpins Hong Kong trend analysis

S/S 14: Le Cuir a Paris colour analysis

S/S 14: Premire Vision colour analysis

S/S 14: Premire Vision top 5

S/S 14: Premire Vision Paris complete report

S/S 14: Premire Vision trend analysis


S/S 14: Premire Vision Paris brands

S/S 14: Premire Vision uncut

Reinforce your seasonal buy with this menswear rundown - in order of relevance and importance of the key catwalk colours. An additional fashion colour has been included where appropriate to provide extra direction.
Overview Tailoring Trousers Shorts Shirts Jersey Outerwear

White remains the most relevant shade for spring/summer 2013 across all men's product categories, working equally well worn as an accent or worn head to toe. Classic tones of black and rich navy are updated on technical fabrics and sports-luxe silhouettes, with resort combinations refreshed through bursts of bright red and cobalt. Muted levels of grey and pale blue add an understated, smart aesthetic. Seasonal fashion brights include levels of yellow from sunshine to spiced Dijon, while orange tones are more muted with peach tones looking most relevant.

SHORTCUTS

Pristine white is in abundance, relevant for all categories, worn head to toe or as an accent Classic black and navy update sports-luxe looks Softer levels of pale blue and grey lend a smart mood to technical fabrics Classic resort themes elevate vibrant tones of cobalt, racing green and bright red Seasonal fashion brights focus on tones of yellow from sunrise to Dijon Natural tones of stone, beige and tobacco add a luxurious aesthetic Orange tones evolve into more saturated levels of peach and salmon

Buttoned-Up: new men's book inspiration

By Ben Perdue, WGSN, 26 March 2013 The editors of Fantastic Man magazine present a book exploring the buttoned-up shirt trend, past and present, focusing on its east London origins.

Buttoned-Up: The East London Line

Matthew Vant

WGSN ANALYSIS

The buttoned-up trend has had a major impact on the commercial relevance of shirting for menswear, driving the new popularity of denim and chambray shirts and the all-over print shirt at mid-market level, as smarter styling inspires new interest in casual classics

This book helps support the current importance of smart-casual styling, reflecting one of the ways that traditional casualwear and formalwear categories are being updated in modern collections Buttoned-Up by Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom is published by Penguin Books

Fantastic Man magazine is known for its considered and intelligent approach to talking about menswear and its editors were chosen for this project to bring that same level of sharpness to discussing a current styling trend for shirts. It's part of a series of books focusing on the 12 lines of London's Underground, to mark its 150th anniversary. This book focuses on the East London Line. Alongside essays and interviews that delve into the history of the buttoned-up trend, Gert Jonkers and Jop van Bennekom have also included images of inspirational musicians, collar details, east London streets and a menswear editorial shot by Benjamin Alexander Huseby.

David Lynch

Tabernacle Street, east London

Moses Manley

This book backs up the commercial relevance of smart-casual dressing for modern menswear, reflected at market level by a new shift towards more sophisticated details and fabrics for casualwear and an increasingly relaxed approach to formalwear styling, perfectly illustrated by the popularity of wearing shirts buttoned up. This is a trend that lends casual shirting a smarter edge, and updates formal shirting by removing the tie while retaining a sense of sharpness.

Brooks Brothers shirt with penny collar

Abel

Jim Reid of The Jesus and Mary Chain

By including interviews with both the young men at the forefront of this east London-led styling trend, and with cultural icons - including Neil Tennant of the Pet Shop Boys - whose personal style has helped inspire the look, Buttoned-Up places this contemporary menswear movement in context. The book also contains a large number of great black-and-white photographs featuring established and less well-known bands and influencers, providing an invaluable resource for design inspiration.

Joshua

Polo Ralph Lauren shirt with buttondown collar

Thom Browne

Digital Fantasy: S/S 14 men's casualwear

By the WGSN Menswear team, 27 November 2012 Blurred effects and fade-out treatments influence patterns and prints for this sports-luxe collection for spring/summer 2014, inspired by the NDA macro trend.
Mood Key details Materials & print Collection

Source: Slashstroke, issue 6. slashstrokemagazine.com

SOFT FOCUS

Source: Genoveva Arteaga-Rynn. As seen atwww.blaiseruby.blogspot.co.uk

POLARISED FILTERS

Source: GQ Germany, autumn/winter 2012/13

Cracked Ray Tube project by James Connolly & Kyle Evans

ELECTRIFIED COLOUR

Source: As seen at mentalmistyc.tumblr.com

PIXEL BLUR

Digital cloud allover

Source: As seen at www.aquabyaqua.com

DIGITAL HAZE

T-shirt by Asos

FANTASTICAL GRAPHICS

Source: Hero, autumn/winter 2012/13

COLOUR

Due to possible variations in your screen's output, PANTONE Colours displayed here may not match PANTONE-identified standard. Please consult current PANTONE Colour Publications for accurate colour.

S/S 13 The Story of Now men's formalwear

By the WGSN Menswear team, 22 December 2011 Postmodern art's adoption of pop culture, graphic statements and post-industrial materials inspires a tailoring-led collection that combines rediscovered classics with fun contemporary shape updates.

Traditional silhouettes and patterns are subverted with extreme proportions or outrageous linings, colour usage is fashion-focused and confident, and prints reference the OTT appeal of 80s design.
Mood Styling Collection

Deep red, beige, and especially blues - ranging from indigo, to dawn blue and Malibu - help anchor the palette with a commercial base. Pastel yellow and pink have a soft summery appeal but take on a new unexpected relevance when mixed with bold brights like hot pink, apple green and burnt sienna.

Due to possible variations in your screen's output, PANTONE Colours displayed here may not match PANTONE-identified standard. Please consult current PANTONE Colour Publications for accurate colour.

S/S 13 men's formalwear: Wonderlab

By the WGSN Menswear team, 17 December 2011 Wonderlab formalwear has a clinical aesthetic inspired by scientific analysis. It focuses on garment engineering and construction, sharp tailoring with pared-back styling and reconstructed details, combined with textural surface structure and modern sheen finishes. Elements of layering and transparency are created with colour and fabric contrast, while microscopic and molecular organic patterns influence shirtings and linings.
Mood Styling Collection

Cool grey, white and mint combine with jade, mallard and vertiver green to add a laboratory aesthetic, grounded with warmer tones of caramel, peach and deeper levels of navy and loganberry.

Sun baked: menswear colour update

By Douglas Gilbey, WGSN, 12 June 2012 A palette of warm desert-inspired tones updates perennial favourites for relaxed summer styling.

POWDERED EARTHY TONES

Source: As seen at healthysparx.com

RELAXED TAILORED LOOKS

Source: Esquire Style Book 2012

ETHNIC STRIPES

Burberry Prorsum spring/summer 2012

MID-TONE COMBINATIONS

Source: As seen at lbosquejo.blogspot.co.uk

GINGER HUES

Acne spring/summer 2012

PREPPY UPDATES

Source: Attitude, summer 2012

SUN-BAKED WARMTH

Favourite Places 1 by Matthias Heiderich

RETRO RESORT LOOKS

Topman Ripley collection

BRIGHT ACCENTS ON TERRACOTTA

Burberry Prorsum spring/summer 2012

SPICED INFUSIONS

Harney & Sons tea

TAKEAWAYS

Relevance: rich terracotta tones were outlined as a key colour direction in ourspring/summer 2012 catwalks analysis. Dried out, earth-based shades combine with ethnic colour influences, updating preppy and resort looks

Key colour: spice rack powdered shades focus on different levels of tan, brown and burnt-orange, such as paprika, nutmeg and ginger Usage: mix sun-baked tones with teal and aqua for refreshing combinations. Stone, white and black provide sharp, modern contrasts, while tone-on-tone combos have an understated, contemporary feel Details: commercial application comes through solid colour usage on tops and bottoms, with stripes and colour-blocked panelling providing a fail-safe vehicle for multicoloured mixes Materials: cotton/linen tailoring is updated in earthy tones, with blazers paired with chinos or shorts. Smart sueded skins and matt technical finishes on sporty outerwear also lend themselves to this warm palette

COLOUR-BLOCKING

Two-tone polo shirt

DARK CONTRAST

Burnt Orange Peg Leg Trousers by Topman

MATT TECHNICAL FINISH

Petar Petrov spring/summer 2012