Got back from Unava after my ‘ziarat’ of the shrine of Hazrat Sayyad Ali Mira

(actually it’s Miran – with a nasal ‘n’) Daataar.

By the way I learnt a few more things – such as that the Unjha Railway Station has
just one railway platform. When my train arrived at Unjha, it stopped at the place
where there was no platform. We had to literally jump down from the train to land
on the ground. I wonder why one more platform at least has not been built by the
Government even after more than 60 years of Independence and when lakhs of
visitors of all faith and creed arrive on the ‘Urs” for seeking the blessings of
the said Saint. Besides, the Unjha Market Yard is the largest in Asia and a world
leader in marketing ‘Jeera” (cumin seeds) and Isubgol (a digestive chaff which is
very popular in America). The aroma of cumin seeds permeates the air of Unjha.

The shrine is about 5 km away from the railway station. But if one travels by a
bus or car, (the Ahmedabad-Palanpur-Delhi Highway) one can just get down near the
shrine. I paid Rs.50.00 for the auto fare from the railway-station to the shrine.
Staying facilities are available in and around the Dargah precincts. Reasonable
lodging-hotels are available near the Dargah at Rs.200 for 24-hours, during the
lean seasons. There are also “Dharm Shalas” or free inns and rooms near the Masjid
and around. A Three-Star Hotel is located at a distance of about a kilometre. The
food is cheap but one needs to exercise vigilance in selecting a proper eating
place. Services of ‘Khadims’ are available and there are no prior demands for
money. Give as your pocket permits. The site of the Dargah is being constructed on
big scale and might take a couple of years for completion. A picture of the model-
dargah, with minarets, is hung at the place.

In view of the ongoing construction, I was told that the “Miswak” Tree had been
removed from its place near the shrine. (A “Miswak” is a piece of stick which is
chewed at one end and the soft part is used for brushing the teeth.) According to
legends, this tree had grown out of the piece of stick or “Miswak” that was buried
by the Saint at Unava before he had proceeded for the battle in which he was
martyred near Mandavgarh from where his mortal remains was brought and buried here
in accordance with the instruction of the Saint. According to some sources, all
this happened during the reign of the very famous Sultan of Gujarat, Mahmud Shah
Bageda (r. 1458-1511)

As is well known, generally when the high rank and the status of the buried person
is known, it is a common sight to see people make offerings of flowers and
‘chadars’ especially at the graves of the Awliya (saints) so that they may be more
respectful of that person. As for the flowers, as long as they continue to remain
fresh they recite the “Tasbih,” or the glorifying and praising of Allah, the Lord
of the Worlds. In fact, the placing of flowers or green stalks or myrtle boughs on
the graves is traced back to the Sunnah of the Prophet sallal laahu alaihi
wasallam when he had once broken a green branch in two pieces and placed them each
on two graves. Or the time when he, sallal laahu alaihi wasallam, placed a stalk
on the grave at the level of the head.

Well, after I had taken the bath and made ablutions, I visited the shrine,
carrying flowers, and a ‘chadar’. I also carried a crown or ‘Taj’ of flowers to
place it at the head of the ‘mazaar, which is housed in a silver sepulchre. There
are silver railings around the tomb for its protection. Women are not allowed
inside the silver sepulchre which can accommodate only a few persons. My first
impression on entering the shrine was that I could feel the presence of Hazarat
Sayyad Ali Mira Daataar. I found myself bursting into tears. Allah says in the
Holy Qur’an:

"And do not reckon as dead who were slain in Allah's cause; but they are alive
with their Lord and are well provided for." (Al-Imran, Ayat: 169)
After I had made the Salaam, I offered the ceremonial ‘Fatiha,’ that is, reading
the usual portions or Surahs from the Holy Quran and offered it specially to the
soul of this Martyred Saint. Thereafter, making the saint as my Wasila or
intermediary, I supplicated to Allah on my behalf and on the behalf of my family
and the general Muslims – both who are alive and those who have passed away. The
Mujawar (Keeper) too supplicated for me. Thereafter I came out of the shrine with
the hope that I might have received the “Baraka” of the Saint.

The entire verandah, abetting the shrine, was occupied by people coming as they
did from various regions and locales and religions. Even the compound was full of
seekers and the needy. All around I could see mostly women many of whom were
shrieking and praying for mercy. Some were walking to and fro in frenzy. Some
stood still with blank stares in their eyes. Some of them were gyrating madly.
Some had let their hair loose on the ground. Some were prostrate, some lay supine,
while some indulged in violent gestures in the air. A few men, too, were bobbing
their head. What specially caught my attention was the figure of a fair and
handsome lad of about twenty, whose lips were rosy, but who stood chained in one
corner of the compound. Everyone of them had one’s own tale of woe to tell. There
was, however, one thing that appeared to be common to all: All had their hearts
attached to Hazrat Sayyad Ali Mira Datar, for everyone believed they would derive
benefit or “faiz” from Allah through the blessed heart of the Martyred Saint.

I may remind my readers that as I mentioned in Part I, of this article, for

centuries this Dargah has been famous for the cure of demonic possession, black
magic, and magic-induced illnesses, sufferings, and the like. Just because the
physical Science has not been able to unravel these mysteries, it doesn’t mean
that such phenomena don’t exist. Which reminds me that as I was travelling by
train on my way here, a Ticket Checker happened to check my ticket. He then
inquired, “Are you travelling to Unjha?” I said, “Yes!” He then narrated to me
that only two days ago a young, Hindu girl of fifteen years, was taken by her
relatives to the shrine at Unjha. In his own words, this girl was possessed by a
“Khabees”. This word literally means “a very malignant spirit.” Since he was their
neighbour, the Ticket Checker wanted me to have his mobile number so that I could
inform him of the girl’s progress. I told him that there were probably hundreds
such cases out there and it would not be possibly to locate her. I asked him where
the girl was from. He replied as a matter of fact: “Bhandup in Mumbai.” Bhandup is
not some remote place, but a highly populated suburban area of Mumbai. So here was
a fresh case of evil resident spirit, right at the door of my information!

After coming out of the Dargah I visited the structure that houses the ‘Chilla’ of
Dadi Amma. Like all else, this building too is inside the fort-like structure. I
had to climb up some very narrow staircase. I had to remain at a distance, since
men are not allowed in here. Thereafter I climbed up further through some narrow
stair-way that led to the terrace. Here we find ‘Dadi Amma ki Chakki, ’ which is
shaped like a cupola, where one is required to place one’s hand on it and go
around it at least seven times so that the problems or illnesses may go away.
There are other places as well, such as the Hauz, etc., but it is not possible to
talk about them all in this small article.

As far as the Khaadims are concerned, it appears that their main job is to look
after the upkeep and maintenance of the shrine and the surroundings as well as
looking after the distressed who are required to be present there for a long
period. A Trust comprising the Khaadims also exists for the general supervision
and contact. A small graveyard of the Khaadims lies towards the south of the
shrine’s compound. When a visitor seeks the assistance of a Khaadim, a bond
develops between the client and the Khaadim who tries to assist and guide the
visitor-client in his day to day conduct at the shrine, making extra supplication
according to one’s need, in a manner that has a long traditions of hundreds of
years.

After the ‘Asr’ prayers I visited and offered ‘Fatiha’ at the “Mamu Sahaab” shrine
which is at a walking distance of some fifteen-minutes outside the fort-structure.
It is usual to hold a general supplication after the Maghrib prayers at the shrine
of Hazarat Sayyad Ali Mira Dataar where the entire atmosphere is charged with
emotions and hope. After the Esha (night) prayers I came back to my room for rest.

I noticed new guests arriving during the night. The next day a small but sweet
girl of about seven years knocked at my door and we became friends. I learnt from
her granny that this girl was a victim of her own mother who had abandoned her
after her husband had married a second woman. She also told me that since then her
son, the father of that girl, had fallen on evil days and lost his thriving
business. Even the girl goes through her spells of “Hajri” or possession. All this
she attributed to the “Kaala Jaadu” or black magic, practised by her daughter-in-
law, who is the first wife of her son, and happens to be the mother of that
unfortunate girl. Happily, she also informed me that she was a regular at the
shrine and came off and on and that the girl was improving. Indeed, the girl
looked brilliant and normal except for the fact that there was some strange looks
in her eyes. And how she loved chocolates! They left the hotel the same day in the
evening.

After sojourning for some three days, I came back home via Aravali Express which I
boarded at the Unjha Railway Station. Fortunately, this time there was a platform
to board the train and I had no need to cross the railway tracks to reach it. But
the question to the railway authorities and the Government still stands: Why a
second platform hasn’t been built? Yes, it has been more than 60 years since India
got her Independence from the British rule!!!

NASIR