A JOURNEY INTO THE WORLD OF PRINTING

By:- Ashish kumar gupta

Textile printing is an ancient art form found on cloth in Egyptian tombs dating to about 5000B.C. Greek fabrics dating from the 4th century B.C. have also been found. Block prints were first seen imported from India to the Mediterranean in 5th C B.C. During the renaissance, Indian chintz was imported to Europe, where it became popular and was imitated. France became a leading centre of this type of cloth production during that time. Stencil work, a highly developed form of printing from Japan was another early discovery of applying pattern to fabric.

 Printing can also be defined as localized dyeing. Defined as the application of dye or pigment in a different pattern on the fabric and by subsequent after treatment of fixing the dye or pigment to get a particular design. Sometimes a printed fabric can be identified by looking at the back side of fabric where there is no design or color as face side. In cotton, dyes like vat, reactive are used In manmade, dyes like disperse and cationic are used

DIFFERENT STYLES OF PRINTING

There are three basic approaches to printing a color on a fabric 1. DIRECT PRINTING 2. DISCHARGE PRINTING 3. RESIST PRINTING

DIRECT PRINTING
In this type of printing dye is applied onto the fabric by carved block, stencil, screen, engraved roller etc. The dye is imprinted on the fabric in paste form and any desired pattern may be produced Example:-Block Printing, Roller Printing, Screen Printing etc.

DISCHARGE PRINTING
Discharge Printing is also called Extract Printing. This is a method of applying a design to dyed fabric by printing a color-destroying agent, such as chlorine or hydrosulfite, to bleach out a white or light pattern on the darker coloured ground. In this method the fabric is dyed and then printed with a chemical that will destroy the color in designed areas. Sometimes the base color is removed and another color printed in its place. A dye impervious to the bleaching agent is combined with it, producing a colored design instead of white on the dyed ground.

RESIST PRINTING
In this method bleached fabric are printed with a resist paste ( a resinous substance that cannot be penetrated when the fabric is immersed in a dye ). The dye will only affect only the parts that are not covered by the resist paste . After the fabric has passed through a subsequent dyeing process the resist paste is removed, leaving a pattern on a dark background

DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING ROLLER PRINTING SCREEN PRINTING FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING ROTARY PRINTING TRANSFER PRINTING STENCIL PRINTING DIGITAL PRINTING BATIK PRINTING TIE & DYE

BLOCK PRINTING
It is the oldest and simplest way of printing In this method a wooden block with a raised pattern on the surface was dipped into the printing colorant and then pressed face down on to fabric. The desired pattern was obtained by repeating the process using different colors. Generally the wooden block is carved out of hand Printing is done manually

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING

BLOCK PRINTING
1. 2. ADVANTAGES Simple method of printing No expensive equipment required No limitation in repeat of size of style Prints produced have great decorative value and stamp of craftsmanship 1. 2. DISADVANTAGES Involves much manual work Method is slow and therefore low output Good skilled labors needed for multi color design Fine and delicate designs hard to produce

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ROLLER PRINTING
It is the machine method of printing designs on cloths by engraved rollers. The design is engraved on the surface of a metal roller, to which dye is applied, and the excess is scraped off the roller's surface, leaving dye in the engraved sections. When it rolls across the fabric, the dye on the roller transfers to the fabric.

Important features and advantages

Requires long production runs of same pattern (10000 yds) Best method for fine line patterns and paisley prints. Can produce half tones and fall on effects. Can print woven fabrics, knitted fabrics require special handling. Because of the high quality it can achieve, roller printing is the most appealing method for printing designer and fashion apparel fabrics.

Diagram of roller printing m/c

ROLLER PRINTING M/C

ROLLER PRINTING

ROLLER PRINTING
ADVANTAGES 1. Large quantities of fabric at the rate of 914-3658m per hour can be printed. 2. Faulty joints or joint marks are absent. 3. Fine sharp outlines and good prints can be obtained which is difficult to get in block printing. 1. 2. DISADVANTAGES Not economical for short run of fabrics. Difficult to produce blotch designs. Repeat of design limited to the size of the rollers. Setup cost of roller printing m/c is high

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STENCIL PRINTING
It is one of the oldest way of printing. In it color is applied to the fabric by brushing or spraying the interstices of a pattern cut out from a flat sheet of metal or waterproof paper or plastic sheet or laminated sheet. A stencil is prepared by cutting out a design from a flat sheet of paper, metal, or plastic.

A simple stencil design

Example of stencil printing

STENCIL PRINTING
ADVANTAGES 1. Simple and cost effective. 2. Stencils can be made rapidly and can be used for small orders. 3. Color combination is good in it. DISADVANTAGES 1. Good design is difficult to obtain. 2. Process is laborious. 3. Not suitable for large scale production.

SCREEN PRINTING
It involves the application of the printing paste through a fine screen placed in contact with the fabric to be printed. A design is created in reverse on the screen by blocking areas of the screen with a material such as an opaque paint. The screen is then placed over the fabric and the printing paste is forced through the open areas of the screen using a flexible synthetic rubber or steel blade known as a squeegee.

PROCESS OF SCREEN PRITING

SCREEN PAPER SIDE

SCREEN SQUEEZE SIDE

ORIGINAL PRINT

PRINT ON FABRIC

SCREEN PRINTING
ADVANTAGES 1. Simple and cost effective. 2. Quick pattern making 3. 16 colors can be used in a design. 4. Sharp lines and features easily produced. DISADVANTAGES 1. For high production large no. of tables required. 2. Delicate shading difficult to obtain. 3. Screen clogging may be there in fine areas.

FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING
It is the advanced version of screen printing by using automatic m/c to do work It consists of printing table, conveyor belt, number of screens, mechanism to print on the fabric, etc. First the fabric is brought on the printing table through a feeding arrangement and it is gummed to the conveyor belt on the table

 Conveyor brings fabric periodically under screen and stops while the screen are lowered on the required parts of the fabric. Printing paste is distributed throughout the full length of the screen. The squeeze is pressed to the screen . One or more strokes of the squeeze ensure simultaneous printing of the pattern by the common action of all screens which applies printing paste as required by the color in the design.

FLAT-SCREEN PRINTING M/C

FLAT SCREEN PRINTING

ADVANTAGES 1. Greater production than manual screen printing 2. Printing with different repeat can be made easily 3. Good print is obtained DISADVANTAGES 1. A big setup required for more number of screens 2. Prints with more colors may not be possible 3. Printing paste not evenly controlled

Rotary Screen
In rotary screen printing, tubular screens rotate at the same velocity as the fabric. Print paste distributed inside the tubular screen is forced into the fabric as it is pressed between the screen and a printing blanket (a continuous rubber belt). Most knit fabric is printed by the rotary screen method, because it does not stress (pull or stretch) the fabric during the process. Twenty or more colours can be printed at the same time. The process is much quicker and more efficient than flat screen printing .

Rotary Screen Important Features and Advantages

Over 40 inch repeat size possible; larger than roller printing, but smaller than flat screen. Lengthwise stripe effect possible. Fall on designs possible. Adaptable to all woven & knitted constructions. Clear and brighter colors than on roller prints. Excellent color definitions, but less than flat screen methods. Rapid change over of design possible. Efficient for long runs and moderately small (1000yds) runs.

Limitations and Disadvantages

Fine line paisley prints not possible. Screen do not last as long as rollers.

Working of rotary screen printing m/c

A rotary screen printing m/c

Feeding of color to rollers

TRANSFER PRINTING
It is a indirect method of printing in which dyes are transferred from paper to a thermoplastic fabric under controlled conditions of temperature, time and pressure. The image is first engraved on a copper plate. Then pigment is applied on these plates. The image is then transferred to a piece of paper, with a layer of glue applied . This is then placed on the fabric and heat and pressure applied which fixes the print onto fabric.

Process of transfer printing

Important Features and Advantages

Produces bright, sharp, clear fine line designs. Ability to print cut garment parts and small items. Adaptable to long and short yardages runs. Rapid pattern changeover possible. Simple, low investment installation possible. Steamers washers, dryers etc not required. Fewest seconds of all print process. Heat setting also accomplished.

TRANSFER PRINTING
ADVANTAGES 1. Operation is simple and no expensive m/c is required. 2. No after treatment of fabric required 3. Print on fabric is of excellent quality DISADVANTAGES 1. Process applicable to synthetic fabric like polyester . 2. Color range is limited. 3. Cost of printed paper high. 4. Not economical for small orders.

Heat transfer Limitations and Disadvantages

Limited to fabrics having minimum 50% manmade fibers. Cellulosic and protein (100%) fibers can not be printed.

RESIST PRINTING
There are two types of resist printing BATIK PRINTING TIE & DIE PRINTING

BATIK PRINTING
Originated on island of Java and is a cottage based industry. Batik is derived from word AMBATIK The resist-dyeing process, whereby designs are made with wax on a fabric which is subsequently immersed in a dye to absorb the color on the unwaxed portions, is known as batik printing. Special feature is the fine lines of color running irregularly across the fabric.

BATIK PRINTING
ADVANTAGES Gives a good artistic effect Cheap printing Greater artistic design Fabric has a rich and graceful appearance DISADVANTAGES Laborious Time taking Cracking effect Dye should be applied at low temperature than wax.

TIE & DYE

It is same as that of batik printing but here the dye is resisted by knots that are tied in the cloth before it is immersed in dye bath. The outside of the knotted portion is dyed, but inside is not penetrated if the knot is firmly tied. This gives a characteristic blurred or mottled effect .

TIE & DYE

ADVANTAGE Interesting design created on fabric No m/c cost is there DISADVANTAGE Costly Laborious Time taking Skilled labour required

DIGITAL PRINTING
It is the more advanced type of printing. This includes :Jet spray printing Electrostatic printing Photo printing Differential printing

JET SPRAYING MACHINE

Designs are imparted to fabrics by spraying colors in a controlled manner through nozzles.

ELECTROSTATIC PRINTING M/C

Using a process where toner sticks to a charged drum and is thermally fused on to a page - similar to photocopying - electrostatic printing is good for very short printing runs. Electrostatic printing involves creating an image by electrostatically charging areas of a special drum. As a result, the drum attracts a dry or liquid toner & the toner is fused to the fabric. Electrostatic printing is a process of printing without contact, without a type form, and without ink.

Mechanism

ELECTROSTATIC PRINTING M/C

PHOTO PRINTING M/C

Pigment Print
Pigment Prints are direct prints made with pigments. The process is frequently called dry printing as distinguished from wet printing. The pigment area will be slightly stiffer and perhaps a bit thicker than the non print area. Pigment prints are the least costly type of print. Pigment produce bright, rich colors, and are applied to all textile fibers. It has good to excellent fastness to light and dry cleaning.

Identification of Pigment Prints

Comparing the differences in fabric stiffness between a design printed portion and a nonprinted portion of the same fabric. The pigment print area will be slightly stiffer and a bit thicker than the non-print area. Deep shades are stiffer than light shades.

Blotch Prints
Background has been obtained by printing rather than piece dyeing; Direct Print; The print and pattern design colour are printed on to a white fabric in one printing operation; imitates discharge or resist print effects. Identification: The blotch print background colour is lighter on backside of the fabric. Possibilities of large background colour areas of the print are not covered with full depth of colours; precision control is necessary; if pigment prints, fabrics very often result in objectionable stiff hand.

Flock Printing
Tiny particles of fibers (1/10- ) are made to adhere to a fabric surface in according to a particular design; printing the design with adhesive; exposing the fiber flock to the fabric. There are two methods of adhering the flock to the adhesive treated fabric surface: Mechanical Flocking. Electrostatic Flocking

Warp Prints
Warp prints involve printing the warp yarns of a fabric before it is placed on the loom for weaving, then the fabric is woven with a solid color weft usually white or contrast color. The result is a soft, shadowy design on the fabric; producing warp prints require careful and skilled labor; these prints are found almost exclusively on high quality and expensive fabrics.

Burn-out Prints
Printing with chemical substance (sulfuric acid) that will destroy the fiber in the pattern design print area; Fabrics are used in low-cost summer blouses and cotton lingerie; Interesting designs can be created with blends.

Duplex Prints
Fabrics in which both sides of the fabric have been printed; Imitate Jacquard & dobby woven design fabric; Very expensive printing

Engineering Prints
Prints that have two or more distinct designs, Each located in separate areas of the fabric, and each designed to become a specific part of the garment; Printed by hand screen or heat transfer method.

PRINTS

CLASSICAL
Also known as ethnic or traditional print. In this print classical motifs or traditional collections are used such as mango, elephant with the chariots, old musical instruments etc. the culture of any particular place can also be considered such as tie and dye , batik, block of Rajasthan etc

FLORAL PRINT
It has the print of varieties of flower either in bunch or single spotted , huge or small , combination of leaves and other addings. Color combination is very important.

STRIPES
PIN ZIGZAG SPIRAL ZEBRA DIAGONAL HORIZONTAL VERTICAL CURVED TOOTHPASTE LAMP POST STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES STRIPES

PIN STRIPES
THESE ARE STRIPES WHICH IS PRINTED LINES AT HAIRY DISTANCE AND MOSTLY TWO OR THREE COLORS ARE USED INCLUDING THE BACKGROUND.

ZIGZAG STRIPES
IT CAN COME IN HORIZONTAL OR VERTICAL BUT IN THE SHAPE OF ZIGZAG.

SPIRAL STRIPES
THE PRINT LOOKS LIKE A STRETCHED SPRING AT MEDIUM PRESSURE, THIS CAN EITHER BE VERTICAL OR HORIZONTAL.

CURVED STRIPES
THIS PRINT HAS THE EFFECT OF A WAVE FOLLOWED EITHER VERTICAL/HORIZONTAL.

TOOTHPASTE STRIPE
THIS STRIPE CAN BE MULTICOLORED AND THE DISTANCE CAN VARY BUT THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE SHOULD BE RANGING FROM 0.5-1.5CMS THE WIDTH OF THE TOOTHPASTE.

ZEBRA STRIPES
IN THIS STRIPES ONLY TWO COLORS ARE USED AND MOSTLY NEUTRAL COLORED SCHEME IS SEEN . THESE STRIPES ARE PLACED AT EQUIDISTANCE. THE WIDTH OF EACH STRIPE WILL NOT BE MORE THAN 1.0CM

LAMP POST STRIPE

THE WIDTH STARTS FROM 3-5CM. IT CAN BE COMPOUND STRIPES. THE PRINT HAS RUNNING LINES OF FIXED WIDTH.

CHECK PRINTS
THESE ARE GOT BY INTERSECTING HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL LINES AT 90 DEG ANGLES. IT IS OF 4 TYPES PLAIDS MADRAS CHECK BOMBAY CHECK OXFORD CHECK

PLAIDS
PLAIDS ARE SIMPLE CHECK WHERE ALL THE SQUARES ARE OF EQUAL SIZE AND IT HAS THE COMBINATION OF ANY TWO COLORS WHICH ARE MOSTLY USED FOR SCHOOL UNIFORMS. LOOKS LIKE THE CHECKS IN A CHESS BOARD

MADRAS CHECK
IT HAS GOT NO MORE THAN 2 OR 3 VERTICAL STRIPES WITH EQUAL(SINGLE) HORIZONTAL STRIPES. COLORS USED BLUE, RED, ORANGE, ETC USED FOR LUNGIS, BURMUDAS AND COATS

BOMBAY CHECKS
THESE CHECKS ARE MOSTLY AVAILABLE IN LIGHT COLORS. HERE NO PROPER NUMBER OF STRIPES CAN BE COUNTED EITHER HORIZONTALLY OR VERTICALLY BUT STRIPES ARE VERY CLOSELY PRINTED USED IN SHIRTS

OXFORD CHECK
THIS IS FOUND IN DARK COLORS WITH WHITE COMBINATION. HERE THE STRIPES PRINTED HORIZONTALLY WILL BE EQUAL TO THE STRIPES PRINTED VERTICALLY AND AT EQUAL THICKNESS PLACED AT EQUIDISTANCE USED IN UNIFORMS, MAT, BED COVERS, DRAPERIES ETC

DOTS
THESE ARE SPOTS EITHER DESIGNED OR PLAIN IN DIFFERENT COLORS 3 TYPES BIG DOTS(3-10CM) SMALL DOTS(PIN- 1.5CM) POLKA DOTS(MIXTURE OF ABOVE)

GEOMETRICAL PRINTS
THIS IS THE PRINT WHERE ALL THE GEOMETRICAL INSTRUMENT DESIGNS ARE CREATED AND THE MATHEMATICAL SIGNS ARE USED SUCH AS PLUS, MINUS, MULTIPLICATION DIVISION ETC.

DIRECTIONAL PRINTS
ANY PRINT WHICH IS DESIGNED DIRECTIONALLY EITHER HORIZONTAL, VERTICAL OR DIAGONAL IS CALLED THE DIRECTIONAL PRINTS. ITS FEATURE IS TO FOLLOW THE DIRECTION OF THE FIRST ONE. USED IN EGYPTIAN DRESS

SELF PRINTS
ANY DESIGN WHICH HAS TO BE PRINTED SHOULD BE OF THE SAME SHADES OF THE BACKGROUND COLOR. RUBBER PRINT

COMPUTERISED PRINT
THE DESIGN IS TAKEN FROM COMPUTER GRAPHIC DESIGN AND VIDEO GAMES . CAN BE USED FOR CHILDREN AND TEENAGERS.

WILD PRINT
THE EFFECT OF FOREST WITH OR WITHOUT ANIMALS, NATURE ARE USED IN THIS PRINT MOSTLY DULL COLORS ARE USED.

ANIMAL PRINT
THE IMPORTANCE IS GIVEN TO THE SKIN TEXTURE OF THE ANIMALS AND THEIR PRINTS SUCH AS ZEBRA, CHEETAH, TIGER, DEER, SNAKE ETC

ABSTRACT PRINT
THIS PRINT IS MADE USING IRREGULAR SHAPES WITH MATCHING COLOR SCHEME.

NUMERICAL PRINT
HERE THE NUMBER 0-9 ARE USED. SOME TIMES WITH OR WITHOUT MATHEMATICAL SIGNS

ALPHABETICAL PRINTS
THIS PRINT IS MADE USING ALPHABETS, WORDINGS ETC EG: NEWSPAPER PRINT

CHILDREN PRINT
THE PRINT CONSISTS OF DESIGNS WHICH CAN EMPHASIZE THE CHILDRENS MOOD SUCH AS CARTOONS, CHOCLATES, FRUITS, ICE CREAM ETC

PHOTO PRINT
THE PHOTOS OF THE FAMOUS STARS, POP SINGERS, OLD CARS ETC ARE PRINTED ON T-SHIRTS WHICH ARE CALLED PHOTOPRINT

MARBLE PRINT
THIS PRINT LOOKS LIKE A MARBLE FINISH