here are a few methods for you guys to choose from ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++ My personal method which I use

is as follows Mount engine in car , preheat engine using competition heat engine warmer (easiest most prefered method) , prime engine by blowing into the pressure line and holding carburetor open until fuel has reached all the way into the crank case . Preheat to a temp of at least 170 fahrenheit , start engine , you might have to keep it idled up a lil at first until engine settles into a smooth idle (hotter plug helps with break in). Monitor temps frequently , if temps start climbing higher unplug comp heat unit , use low speed needle and idle screw adjustment to get engine to idle between 190210 . Let idle for 5 min then shut down , leave head covered while idling , repeat this process three times , preheat , idle , shut off , cool down with piston out of the pinch area or BDC . Next step is similar , preheat , start engine , idle for a minute or so , make sure carb is fairly close to "in balance" but hsn fairly rich lsn 2-3 hrs rich of a race tune and run car on the ground for approx. 10 min. , you will have to tune engine so it stays at 190-210 while running the car around in a parking lot with the body on (do not over rev, use 40'50' lengths so as not to gain too many rpm's) , no head cover . Repeat this process 3 times - preheat , run car on ground for 10 min., shut off , cool down with piston at bdc . Next step is same as on ground intervals but this time do 30 min intervals on the ground with the body on no head cover . You can start to drive car on track for this but do not over lean engine , do not over rev!!!!!! , keep temps between 190-210F and do not "blip" the throttle , all these steps are important . hope this helps , Monty Houston Houstons Engine Service ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++ If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore. From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engines compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method. You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone

causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-sosurprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan. Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power not written by me , stephen bess wrote the article