Troubleshooting is a form of problem solving, often applied to repair failed pro ducts or processes.

It is a logical, systematic search for the source of a probl em so that it can be solved, and so the product or process can be made operation al again. Troubleshooting is needed to develop and maintain complex systems wher e the symptoms of a problem can have many possible causes. Troubleshooting is us ed in many fields such as engineering, system administration, electronics, autom otive repair, and diagnostic medicine. Troubleshooting requires identification o f the malfunction(s) or symptoms within a system. Then, experience is commonly u sed to generate possible causes of the symptoms. Determining which cause is most likely is often a process of elimination - eliminating potential causes of a pr oblem. Finally, troubleshooting requires confirmation that the solution restores the product or process to its working state. In general, troubleshooting is the identification of, or diagnosis of "trouble" in the management flow of a corporation or a system caused by a failure of some kind. The problem is initially described as symptoms of malfunction, and trouble shooting is the process of determining and remedying to the causes of these symp toms. A system can be described in terms of its expected, desired or intended (usually , for artificial systems, its purpose). Events or inputs to the system are expec ted to generate specific results or outputs. (For example selecting the "print" option from various computer applications is intended to result in a hardcopy em erging from some specific device). Any unexpected or undesirable behavior is a s ymptom. Troubleshooting is the process of isolating the specific cause or causes of the symptom. Frequently the symptom is a failure of the product or process t o produce any results. (Nothing was printed, for example). The methods of forensic engineering are especially useful in tracing problems in products or processes, and a wide range of analytical techniques are available to determine the cause or causes of specific failures. Corrective action can the n be taken to prevent further failures of a similar kind. Preventative action is possible using failure mode and effects analysis (FMEA) and fault tree analysis (FTA) before full scale production, and these methods can also be used for fail ure analysis. A/C & Heating/Cooling System Symptoms & Warning Signs A/C system doesn't cool vehicle to set temperature Fan/blower does not work when set in A/C mode Fan/blower is louder than usual Some or all of the dash controls do not work Heater, top and side vents, or defroster do not work A/C or engine makes loud noises when the heat or A/C is turned on Vehicle stalls or idles roughly when A/C is turned on Vehicle runs hot or overheats when A/C is on There is water on the car's floor Electric engine cooling fan quickly cycles on and off Unusual odors come from interior vents A/C unit has not been serviced regularly Windows fog when defroster is turned on SYSTEM evaluation Our ASE-certfied technicians will perform a complete system evaluation to proper ly diagnose your problem. Includes Pressure readings Leak test Component performance and visual inspection Check belts, hoses and connections Test outlet temperature AOTOMOBILE AIR CONDITIONER-HISTORY AND IMPORTANCE

Automotive air conditioning. It's become nearly universal, with 99 percent of al l new cars as of summer 2010 coming equipped with it. When it's missing, we noti ce. It's also been with us longer than you might think. Packard invented automotive AC all the way back in 1939, and in 1940 was the first car company to offer fact ory-installed air conditioning. Of course, this early system didn't have a therm ostat, but it was better than not having anything at all. The idea caught on, th ough, and by 1969, more than half of all new cars were sold with air conditionin g built in. That's not including the aftermarket AC units that could be installe d during the first heat wave of the year, when the new owner regretted his penny -pinching at the dealership in January. Eventually, it was determined that the refrigerant used for decades in automotiv e AC, known as R-12, CFC-12, or its brand name Freon, was damaging the ozone lay er (it's a chlorofluorocarbon). It was banned from being manufactured in the Uni ted States and an alternative, called R-134a or HFC-134a, was required for all c ars manufactured after 1996. Now, any car older than that needs to be retrofitte d with a new system that can use the newer, safer refrigerant. Air conditioning has worked pretty much the same way for its entire existence: i t cools and removes humidity from the air. There are three main parts to the sys tem -- the compressor, condenser, and evaporator -- that achieve this, plus a fe w other parts to keep the system running smoothly. Let's take a look at each. The High-pressure Side All automotive air conditioning systems are (nearly) closed loops with a high-pr essure side and low-pressure side. We'll start with the high-pressure side as it leads from the engine to the passenger compartment: Compressor: The compressor is a pump driven by a belt attached to the engine's c rankshaft. When the refrigerant is drawn into the compressor, it is in a low-pre ssure gaseous form. Once the gas is inside the pump, the compressor lives up to its name. The belt drives the pump, which puts the gas under pressure and forces it out to the condenser. Compressors cannot compress liquids, only gasses. You' ll see as we go through the system that there are other parts whose job it is to capture any water that accidentally makes into the AC loop. Condenser: The condenser is basically a radiator, and it serves the same purpose as the one in your car: to radiate heat out of the system. The refrigerant ente rs the condenser as a pressurized gas from the compressor. The process of pressu rizing the gas and moving it to the condenser creates heat, but air flowing arou nd the twisting tubes of the condenser cool the refrigerant down until it forms a liquid again. Imagine steam cooling down and condensing back into water, and y ou've got the idea. The liquid refrigerant is now a high-pressure liquid and nea rly ready to cool the car. Receiver-Dryer: But first, the refrigerant needs to be prepped for the evaporato r. As it moves out of the condenser, the liquid goes through a little reservoir installed in the line. This receiver-dryer contains desiccants, small granules t hat attract water. You've seen packets of desiccants in shoeboxes, where they do the same thing: attract water from the air to keep new shoes fresh and ready fo r your feet. (They're usually labeled "Do not eat.") In the receiver-dryer, they remove any water that has entered the system. If the water is allowed to remain and possibly form ice crystals, it can damage the air conditioning system. That's enough high-pressure for anyone, so let's move on to the low-pressure sid e of the system. The Low-pressure Side Thermal Expansion Valve (TXV): Here, the system changes from the high-pressure s ide to the low-pressure side. If you were to touch this part of the system, you' d feel it change from hot to cold. The high-pressure liquid refrigerant flows from the receiver-dryer through the e xpansion valve, where it is allowed to expand. This expansion reduces the pressu re on the refrigerant, so it can move into the evaporator. The valve senses pres

sure and regulates the flow of refrigerant, which allows the system to operate s teadily, but the moving parts of the valve can wear out and sometimes require re placement. Some vehicles have an orifice tube rather than an expansion valve, but it serves the same purpose in allowing the refrigerant to expand and the pressure to be l owered before the liquid enters the evaporator. The orifice tube allows refriger ant to flow at a constant rate and has no moving parts, but it can become clogge d with debris over time. Systems with an orifice tube automatically turn the AC system on and off to regulate the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator. Evaporator: This is where the magic happens. While all the other parts of the sy stem are located in the engine compartment, this one is in the cabin, usually ab ove the footwell on the passenger side. It also looks like a radiator, with its coil of tubes and fins, but its job is to absorb heat rather than dissipate it. Refrigerant enters the evaporator coil as a cold, low-pressure liquid, ideally a t 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius), which is why you don't want any wat er in the system. The refrigerant doesn't freeze at this temperature, but it doe s have a very low boiling point. The heat in the cabin of the car is enough to m ake the R-134a in the evaporator boil and become a gas again, just like water tu rning back to steam. In its gaseous form, refrigerant can absorb a lot of heat. The gas moves out of the evaporator -- and out of the passenger compartment of t he car, taking the heat with it. A fan blowing over the outside of the evaporato r coil blows cool air into the passenger compartment. The refrigerant in gas for m then enters the compressor, where it is pressurized and the whole process star ts all over again. If the system uses an orifice tube, there will be an accumulator between the eva porator and the compressor. An orifice tube sometimes lets too much refrigerant into the evaporator and it doesn't all boil. Since the compressor cannot compres s liquid, only gas, the accumulator traps any excess liquid before it can get in to the compressor. The evaporator also takes humidity out of the air in the car, which helps you fe el cool. Water in the air condenses on the evaporator coil, along with dirt and pollen and anything else floating around in the cabin. When you stop the car and see water dripping underneath, it's probably the water from the AC evaporator a nd nothing to worry about. We've all heard about "recharging the AC," so we'll take a quick look at that ne xt. A/C COOLING PROBLEM? The most likely cause of an automotive air conditioner cooling problem is no ref rigerant in the system. If the refrigerant has escaped past a leaky compressor o r O-ring seal, leaked out of a pinhole in the evaporator or condenser, or seeped out through a leaky hose, the leak needs to be identified and repaired before t he system is recharged. On many systems, the compressor will not turn on if the refrigerant is low becau se the "low pressure safety switch" prevents the compressor clutch from engaging if system pressure is low. This protects the compressor from possible damage ca used by a lack of lubrication. One of the first things you should check, therefore, is compressor engagement. I f the compressors magnetic clutch is not engaging when the A/C is turned on, the problem may be a blown fuse or a wiring problem. If the fuse is blown, replacin g it may restore cooling temporarily. But the underlying reason for the fuse blo wing in the first place needs to be identified and corrected to prevent the same thing from happening again. If the magnetic clutch is receiving voltage but is not engaging the compressor, the clutch is defective and needs to be replaced. If there is any evidence of le akage around the compressor shaft seal, the seal should also be replaced.

If the clutch works but fails to turn the compressor (the belt may squeal in pro test!), the compressor has seized and needs to be replaced. Compressor failures are usually the result of loss of lubrication, which in turn may be due to low refrigerant in the system, a blockage (such as a plugged orif ice tube which prevents refrigerant and oil from circulating to the compressor), loss of lubricant due to leaks or improper service procedures (not adding oil t o the system to compensate for oil lost through leakage or component replacement ), or use of the wrong type of lubricant. R-12 systems require mineral oil while R-134a systems require AG oil or POE oil. Using mineral oil in a newer R-134a system lubrication problems as can using the wrong grade (viscosity) follow the vehicle or lubricant manufacturers compressor oil various types of P can cause serious of PAG oil. Always recommendations.

The next thing you should check when troubleshooting a no cooling problem is sys tem pressure. For this, you need a set of A/C service gauges. Attach your servic e gauges to the high and low service fittings. If both the high and low side pre ssure gauges read low, the system is low and needs recharging. But before any re frigerant is added, check for leaks to find out where the refrigerant is going. AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: REFRIGERANT LEAKS All vehicles leak some refrigerant past seals and through microscopic pores in h oses. The older the vehicle, the higher the rate of seepage. Newer vehicles have better seals and barrier style hoses so typically leak less than a few tenths o f an ounce of refrigerant a year. But system capacities also tend to be smaller on newer vehicles, so any loss of refrigerant will have more of an adverse effec t on cooling performance. Various methods can be used to check for leaks. The telltale oil stains and wet spots that indicate leaks on older R-12 systems are less apparent on the newer R -134a systems because PAG lubricants are not as "oily" as mineral oil. This make s it harder to see leaks. Leaks can be found by adding special dye to the system (available in pressurized cans premixed with refrigerant), an electronic leak detector, or plain old soap y water (spray on hose connections and watch for bubbles -- requires adding some refrigerant to system first and turning the A/C on). Once you've found a leak, repairs should be made prior to fully recharging the system. Most leak repairs i nvolve replacing O-rings, seals or hoses. But if the evaporator or condenser are leaking, repairs can be expensive. POOR COOLING PERFORMANCE Diagnosing an A/C cooling problem is best done by connecting a gauge set to the high and low pressure service fitting on the system. Though poor cooling is ofte n due to a low charge of refrigerant, it can also be caused by many other factor s (see chart above). How to tell if your A/C system needs refrigerant: look at the LOW pressure gauge reading when the engine is OFF. On an 80 degree day, the LOW gauge should read about 56 psi or higher if the A/C system contains an adequate charge of refriger ant. On a 90 degree day, the LOW side reading should be about 70 psi or higher. If the LOW gauge reading is less than this, the A/C system probably needs some a dditional refrigerant. Refer to the vehicle manufacturer specifications for normal system operating pre ssures, and the total refrigerant capacity of the system. Most newer passenger c

ar A/C systems do not hold much refrigerant (14 to 28 oz.), so you don't want to add too much if the system is low. AIR CONDITIONER PROBLEM: INTERMITTENT COOLING An A/C system that blows cold air for awhile then warm air is probably freezing up. This can be caused by air and moisture in the system that allows ice to form and block the orifice tube. Evacuating the system with a vacuum pump will purge it of unwanted air and moist ure. Evacuation should be done with a vacuum pump that is capable of achieving a nd holding a high vacuum (29 inches) for at least 30 to 45 minutes. For best performance, an A/C system should contain less than 2% air by weight. F or every 1% increase in the amount of air that displaces refrigerant in the syst em, there will be a corresponding drop of about one degree in cooling performanc e. More than 6% air can cause a very noticeable drop in cooling performance, and possibly cause evaporator freeze-up. Air can get inside a system through leaks, by not evacuating the system prior to recharging it, and/or by recharging the system with refrigerant that is contami nated with air. Recovery equipment can suck air into the recycling tank if an A/ C system contains air or if the system has a leak. For this reason, the refriger ant recovery tank on recycling equipment must be checked and purged daily. On so me equipment, this is done automatically. But on equipment that lacks an automat ic purge cycle, tank pressure and temperature has to be measured and compared to a static pressure reference chart. Some refrigerant identifier equipment can detect air in the system as well as ot her contaminants. An identifier should be used to check the refrigerant before t he system is serviced to prevent cross-contamination of recovery and recycling e quipment. Possible causes of intermittent cooling in a manual A/C system that might be cau sed by an electrical problem include: Faulty low pressure cutout switch. This switch prevents the compressor from runn ing if the refrigerant level is low. If the cutout switch is not reading correct ly, it can prevent the compressor from coming on. Faulty compressor clutch. The magnetic clutch on the compressor requires full ba ttery voltage to engage. If the voltage to the clutch is low, or the clutch coil s have too much resistance, or the air gap in the clutch is too great, the clutc h may not engage to drive the compressor. Faulty compressor clutch relay. Check to see if the relay is receiving voltage w hen the A/C is turned on. Also check the relay wiring and ground connections. If bypassing the relay with a jumper wire or routing battery voltage directly to t he compressor clutch makes the A/C work, the relay is probably bad. Faulty A/C control switch. The switch may be worn and not making good contact wh en it is turned on. Some possible causes of intermittent cooling (or no cooling) on automatic A/C sy stems include all of the above, plus: A problem in the control module or control head (this usually requires using a d ealer scan tool to read fault codes and perform self-diagnostics). A bad temperature sensor (an ambient air temperature sensor, interior air temper

ature sensor, evaporator temperature sensor, or sunload sensor). Again, a factor y scan tool is usually required to perform diagnostics on the system. AIR CONDITIONING PROBLEM: NOISE Noise from the compressor usually means the compressor is on its way out. But no ise can also be caused by cross-contaminated refrigerant (operating pressure too high), air in the system or the wrong type of compressor lubricant. Noise can also be caused by hoses or other parts rattling against other componen ts in the engine compartment. Check the routing of the hoses, support brackets, etc., to pinpoint the noise. TROUBLESHOOTING AIR CONDITIONING ODOR If a vehicles air conditioner blows out air that smells like the inside of old g ym sneaker when the A/C is turned on, microbes are growing on the evaporator. Mo ld likes damp, dark places. Bacteria can also thrive under such conditions. Besi des smelling bad, it can be unhealthy to breathe (ever hear of Legionnaires Dise ase?). To get rid of the unwanted organisms, various chemicals can be sprayed on the ev aporator directly or through the blower ducts or air intake. Many replacement ev aporators have a special chemical coating that inhibits the growth of mold and b acteria. The drainage tubes that carry condensation away from the evaporator sho uld also be inspected and cleaned. A/C FLUSHING If the compressor has failed, or the system is full of sludge or contamination, the condenser, evaporator and hoses should all be flushed with an approved flush ing chemical (such as Dura 141b) to clean the A/C system. Flushing can help prev ent repeat compressor failures and system blockages by dislodging and cleaning o ut sludge and debris. Replacing badly contaminated parts such as the condenser, accumulator or receiver-drier and orifice tube or expansion valve is another way to get rid of these contaminants, but flushing is usually a more practical and economical choice. Regardless of which approach you use, the orifice tube or exp ansion valve should always be replaced when contamination is found. NOTE: Some types of compressors can be very difficult to flush completely. These include "parallel" flow condensers and those with extremely small passegeways. If contaminated, these types of condensers must be replaced to reduce the risk o f a repeat compressor failure. Installing an in-line filter is also recommended for added insurance, When a compressor fails, a lot of metallic debris is often thrown into the syste m. Most of this debris collects in the condenser where it can cause blockages th at reduce cooling performance. If the debris is carried through the condenser an d enters the liquid line, it can plug the orifice tube or expansion valve. This can block the flow of refrigerant and lubricating oil causing a loss of cooling and possible compressor damage. Debris can also migrate backwards from the compr essor through the suction hose causing blockages in the accumulator or receiverdrier. Another source of trouble can be debris from old hoses that are deteriorating in ternally. Tiny flakes of rubber can be carried along to the orifice tube or expa nsion valve and cause a blockage. Sludge is usually the result of moisture-contamination. The blackish goo that re sults can damage the compressor and plug the orifice tube or expansion valve. Th

e moisture-absorbing "desiccant" in the accumulator or receiver-drier is suppose d to prevent this from happening. But the desiccant can only hold so much moistu re. Once saturated, sludge begins to form. So you should also replace the accumu lator or receiver-drier if the system is contaminated, has leaks or must be open ed up for repairs. Another reason for flushing is to remove residual lubricating oil from the syste m. This should be done when retrofitting an R-12 system to R-134a. It should als o be done if the lubricating oil is contaminated or the system contains the wron g type of oil for the application. Flushing out the old oil can prevent oil over charging, reduced cooling performance and/or lubrication incompatibility problem s. For added insurance after flushing, you can install a high side filter to protec t the orifice tube or expansion valve from any residual debris that might still be in the system, and/or a second filter in the suction hose to protect the comp ressor. R134A RETROFIT As long as R-12 is available, there is no real reason to convert older vehicles to R-134a. That is because R-12 systems cool best when charged with R-12 refrige rant. But converting to R-134a does make sense if your A/C system requires major A/C repairs (such as a new compressor, condenser or evaporator). The extra cost involved to make the changeover to R-134a does not add that much to the total r epair bill. A basic retrofit procedure can be done one of two ways. The "Type 1" retrofit fo llows the OEM recommended procedure and generally involves removing all the old mineral oil from the system, replacing the accumulator or receiver-drier with on e that contains a desiccant (X-7) which is compatible with R-134a, replacing O-r ings (if required), installing or replacing a high pressure cutout switch and/or orifice tube (if required), then adding the specified PAG oil and recharging th e system with R-134a. Federal law also requires the installation of R-134a fitti ngs on the high and low service ports to reduce the chance of refrigerant crosscontamination the next time the vehicle is serviced, and labels that identify th e system has been converted to R-134a. TROUBLESHOOTING When your car air conditioning goes on the fritz, the driver s discomfort is twofo ld. You re not only sweating bullets, but also sweating hefty repair bills. If you v e got some basic understanding of your air conditioning system, though, you can stay cool. Normally, even though it's stifling-hot inside your vehicle, you know that relie f is just a twist of a key, a push of a switch, and a few blocks of driving away . Except that this time, something is amiss: Only hot air is coming out of the d ash vents or no air at all. So now, besides the discomfort you're feeling, you're also anxious over the thought of a visit to the repair shop. Here are some tips for diagnosing the problem yourself.Even when performed by co nscientious professionals, air conditioning work can be quite expensive, and muc h more costly if those professionals are less than scrupulous. Before your heatstroked brain overwhelms you with worry, here are some simple tips for diagnosin g the problem yourself so you know whether the problem is with a simple switch or something major. Diagnostic Tips

First, we should cover a few fundamentals. An automobile's air conditioning syst em can be divided into two basic sections: The Air Management System and the Ref rigerant Cycling System. We'll cover the former in this article, and the latter in a separate story. Starting with the Air Management System, the first things t o inspect are the system controls on your dashboard. Has anything changed about the way they're operating? There are a lot of different designs for both manual and automatic climate controls, but here are a few basic questions that can appl y to most of them: > Did you mistakenly hit the air-recirculation button instead of the A/C switch? > Are all of the switches working correctly, offering the proper amount of resis tance and pausing appropriately at the detent points (where the vent function or blower fan speed would change)? > Are the appropriate pilot lights lit and graphics displays legible? > Is the blower fan working? (There should be an accompanying sound coming from the center or passenger side under the dashboard.) > Is the air being directed to the dash vents, or is it going somewhere else? > Is the air temperature approximately what the ambient air temperature is, or i s it considerably hotter? Options Now, let's make some sense out of the answers to these questions. If the control s and switches do not feel as they did before the problem began (such as moving with no resistance, no detent points, excessive resistance, limited movement or no movement at all), or the graphics display is blank or blacked out, the proble m is likely at the control panel. These can be fairly difficult to repair or rep lace, so it would be time to see a service professional. If the controls and switches feel okay, but they are having no effect on blower fan operation whatsoever, check the appropriate fuses. They are usually under th e dash and labeled, although with later-model cars, it may be necessary to consu lt at least the owner's manual or even a service guide (not a bad idea to have o n hand) to determine the location of the fuse box and identify the individual fu ses. Physically remove the related fuses with the tool that is usually attached to th e fuse box cover or inserted into a slot in the fuse box itself. Blown fuses are normally pretty obvious; but, if in doubt, replace them with a fuse of the same rating. If the fuse continues to blow, you probably have a circuit problem, so resist the urge to install a fuse of a higher amperage rating. If it's the blowe r fan fuse that continues to blow, there's a good chance that the blower motor h as failed. Consult your service manual for repair options, as some blower motors can be fairly easy to replace, especially on older cars. If the blower fan only operates on the highest speed setting, or is missing one or more speed settings below that, most likely the blower resistor has failed. Again, consult your man ual for repair options. Regarding the directional and temperature controls: Most manufacturers are using a combination of sub-systems to accomplish proper function of the entire system . These are 1) an electrical system, 2) a cable system, 3) a vacuum system, and 4) an electronics/computer-controlled system. Your service manual will indicate which ones your vehicle is using. Basic Tips Here are some basic tips that do apply to most vehicles: If the fan is working,

but the air is going only to the defroster vents (top of dash at windshield base ), possibly even being cold at the outlet, there is likely a problem with the va cuum-system supply line. It conducts engine vacuum (usually via a vacuum reservo ir) to the ventilation, and often, the temperature controls. Look for a small-di ameter black plastic tube routed through the engine compartment firewall near wh ere the refrigerant lines are also routed through. It will eventually lead to th e vacuum source either a reservoir (plastic bottle or metal can) or a manifold. In spect the tubing and the rubber end connectors for damage, including the one sup plying the reservoir. If the directional controls are working properly, but the output air is lukewarm or hot, check the heater valve, if your vehicle is so equipped. This valve is u sually located in-line in one of the two heater hoses, which also pass through t he firewall, often in the general vicinity of the refrigerant lines. With the engine warmed-up and running, and the A/C controls set to max, locate t he two heater hoses where they pass through the firewall, and determine if they are both hot to the touch. One should be noticeably cooler than the other, indic ating that the valve is closed to coolant flow in order for the cabin air to be at its coolest. If they are both hot, you probably have a problem with the valve control or the valve itself. When the output air at the dash vents is still not cold, either a fault lies within the air blend system under the dash (repair pr o needed), or in the refrigerant cycling system, which should be inspected under the hood. We'll cover tips on diagnosing that system in Part 2. Troubleshooting your car air conditioning is the easy part. Hopefully, identifying the problem with you re A/C system will make the repair easier as well. When your car's air conditioning blows hot instead of cold, you should start by checking out the controls of the Air Management System on the dash, as covered i n Part 1 of this article. If that doesn't do the trick, the next step is to look under the hood at the Refrigerant Cycling System. Before you do anything, thoug h, take a look at a service manual for your car, not only for information on how the system works, but also specifics involving its pressure and temperature con trol features. The manual can tell you both procedures to follow and how far you can go with the basic testing that we're going to discuss. It will also inform you of the hazards and safety precautions when working on the system. Visual Clues Since you can "see" a lot just by looking, start with a visual inspection of the refrigerant cycling components under the hood with the engine off. First, look at the compressor and its drive belt. Is the belt connected, sufficiently tight and in serviceable shape? Replacing a missing belt may be all that's required fo r a quick fix (and check the other belts while you're at it, too). Inspect the refrigerant hoses for damage (don't be fooled by surface damage to t he insulation that may be covering the hoses). Since a small amount of lubricati ng oil is contained within the system, check if any areas or connections are oil y, with no other possible outside source. Oil found on any A/C component, or at any of the hose or line connections without an outside source, usually indicates refrigerant loss at those points, which may require replacing those components and a recharge and retest of the system. How about the wiring to the compressor, any temperature or pressure switches, an d condenser fan (if so equipped). It should be securely connected and free from damage. Also, makes sure it's not routed near to moving or hot components. Any d amaged wiring will have to be repaired, and the cause corrected before re-testin g the system. Is there any indication of a catastrophic failure of the compressor, such as an

off-center drive hub, or paint damage or rust indicating severe overheating? Is there oil on it that doesn't seem to have come from anywhere else? All of these are signs that you may need to install a new one. If the compressor appears to b e okay, grab hold of its clutch hub (the round part that protrudes just forward of the belt pulley) and make sure it turns with only moderate resistance. On the other hand, if there is evidence of a complete failure of the compressor, well, that's about as bad as it gets. If the vehicle is much more than five or six ye ars old, the proper way to address this problem is usually by replacing the enti re refrigerant cycling system, which unfortunately is big-dollar job. Run & Check After you've done an initial inspection under the hood, and you still don't see an obvious cause for the problem, next proceed to do some engine-running inspect ions. With the engine running and the A/C controls on maximum, observe the opera tion of the compressor, and answer the following questions: > Does the clutch hub that you previously turned by hand, engage and spin at bel t speed? > Does the belt, although sufficiently tight, appear to be slipping or squealing ? > Does it stay steadily engaged, or does it cycle on and off in approximately tw o- to three-second intervals? If it's steady, test the temperature of the hoses/ lines near the connection to the compressor. > Does the larger diameter one feel cold to the touch, and the one of smaller di ameter feel hot, but not scalding (think safety here)? > Does the condenser fan, or engine-driven fan operate with sufficient speed and volume? Answers After you've noted the answers to all these items, here's what they mean: If the compressor is steadily engaged, and the sufficiently tight belt is squeal ing or slipping (with no presence of liquid on the belt), then likely there is a problem internally with the compressor (as long as no other components that may share the same belt are not causing this condition). Any fluid leaks onto the b elt, or malfunctioning components on the same belt would obviously need to be re paired before making this determination, though. If the compressor clutch does the engage-disengage thing, it usually indicates l ow system pressure, more often than not a result of an insufficient charge of re frigerant. This problem can occur over the course of several years and may only necessitate a visit to a mechanic for a recharge and inspection. If, however, yo u notice the aforementioned oil accumulations, which are a sign of a more rapid refrigerant loss, you'll have to discharge the system, repair the leaks, recharg e and retest. Fairly routine repairs like these are less costly than an entire s ystem replacement. If the compressor clutch does not engage at all, here's a little tip that can he lp, although it can't be used on all vehicles (consult your manual to determine whether damage may occur to the computer if you perform the following test proce dure). Find the low-pressure sensing switch and bypass it with a jumper wire or modifie d paper clip of appropriate thickness (sometimes disconnecting the switch is the bypass procedure), and observe the compressor clutch for engagement. No engagem ent usually indicates a blown fuse, a circuit problem, or a compressor clutch pr

oblem. You probably know how to deal with the fuse, but the others will likely r equire a pro to repair. On the other hand, after bypassing the switch, and you have clutch engagement, p erform the informal hose/line temperature tests. If the larger hose is not cold at the compressor, or at any point traced back to the firewall, then there is ei ther an internal problem with the compressor, or the system is completely discha rged and likely has a serious leak. Now, if the hose is instead cold, and a quick check of the dash vent outlet temp erature indicates that sufficiently cool air is now present, the odds are that t he low-pressure switch has failed. Consult your manual to see if you can replace it without violating any environmental laws, and doing so doesn't require the c harge/evacuate/recharge procedure to be performed by a pro. Lastly, if the hose is only somewhat cold, as is the air at the dash vent outlets, a recharge/retest is in order. If all is well initially, but then the large hose gradually warms up and the sma ll hose gets very hot, inspect the airflow through the condenser and coolant rad iator. If the airflow is not vigorous, check for obstructions at the front of th e condenser. Simple things, like an accumulation of leaves or other road debris (plastic grocery store bags are common culprits) can really wreak havoc on the a irflow. An accompanying rise in the engine coolant temperature is typical with t his kind of problem. Remove the debris with the engine off, being careful not to damage the cooling fins on the condenser. When there are no obstructions at the condenser, suspect a worn or faulty conden ser fan (slow or no rotation), or a malfunctioning control system or radiator fa n clutch. As confirmation, you'll notice high engine coolant temperatures when t he vehicle is stationary, but normal temperatures when the vehicle is moving ste adily at 30 mph or more on a level road. After you trace down the cause of your air conditioning's problem, you may not b e able to fix it yourself, but at the very least, you now have a greater underst anding of what to expect in the way of repairs. And good service professionals a ppreciate a customer's informed input, as that helps them get the job done more easily. Of course, if you're able to repair the problem yourself, you'll have th e satisfaction of a job well done, not to mention saving some dough.