Kangaroo

Gday! This kangaroo is knitted from the nose-down almost seamlessly. This kangaroo can be made with any yarn, and you should use needles for a tight gauge, so that the stuffing does not show through. The pattern is basically the same for Jack (dad), Jill (mom), and Joey (babe), so if you want the Joey to be able to fit into Jills pouch, they will need to be far apart in gauge. The Joey in the picture is in fingering/sock weight, and the Jill is in a heavy worsted, and he barely fits. All of the appendages are made first, so that they can be attached as the head and body are knitted.

Skills you will need: -Knitting in the round on double pointed needles -Turkish cast-on -Short rows -Increase by make 1, decrease by ssk or k2tog -I-Cord -3-needle bind-off

Materials: -yarn: any gauge. One 50-gram ball of fingering weight yarn, or One 100-gram ball of worsted weight yarn should be enough -double pointed needles, set of 4 or 5 (preferably 5), to produce tight gauge with yarn -stuffing -5 stitch markers -yarn needle -contrasting thread, buttons, or fabric for eyes and nose -2 stitch holders or scrap yarn to hold stitches -straight pins or safety pins Gauge: Use needles to produce a tight gauge for the yarn. Abbreviations: k: knit p: purl m1: increase by make one kfb: increase by knit into front loop then knit into back loop of same stitch k2tog: decrease by knit two together ssk: decrease by slip, slip, knit Tail Cast on 4 stitches Row 1-4: I-cord for 4 rows Re-distribute on needles to work in the round; place marker to mark end of row Row 5: Kfb all Rows 6-11: K all --8 st

Row 12: m1, k rest Row 13: k all, m1 before marker Row 14: k all Row 15: k all Repeat rows 12-15 eight more times *for Jill or Jack only*: K all for six rows Place stitches on holders, 13 on each holder --26 st

Ears (make 2) Cast on 9, leaving longish tail Row 1: p all Row 2: sl 1, k3, move yarn forward, sl 1 purlwise, move yarn back, k 4 Row 3: sl 1, p3, k1, p4 Rows 4-11: Repeat rows 2-3 four more times Row 12: k2tog, k2, move yarn forward, sl 1 purlwise, move yarn back, k2, ssk Row 13: sl 1, p2, k1, p3 Row 14: k2tog, k1, move yarn forward, sl 1 purlwise, move yarn back, k1, ssk Row 15: sl 1, p1, k1, p2 Row 16: k2tog, move yarn forward, sl 1 purlwise, move yarn back, ssk Row 17: sl 1, k1, p1 Row 18: slip 2 together as though to k2tog, k1, pass both slipped st over Cut yarn leaving a tail several inches long, and pull through. Fold bottom (cast-on edge) in half so that right side faces in. Sew 2 stitches together. Push remaining unsewn edge flat, into a smushed triangle shape. Sew into shape. (See figure 1)

Weave yarn at top of ear down towards the bottom, going back and forth behind the slipped stitches, to make the ear more rigid. (See figure 2) Forepaws (make 2) Cast on 8 st, arrange to work in the round Row 1: Kfb all --16 st Row 2: K all Row 3: [K1, Kfb] around --24 st Row 4: k all Row 5: p all this separates the flat part of the paw from the arm Rows 6-9: k all for 4 rows Pause to sew up the hole in the center of the bottom, making the end of the paw flat. Stuff firmly.

Row 10: [k2tog, k4] x4 Rows 11-13: k all for 3 rows Row 14: [k2tog, k3] x4 Rows 15-16: k all for 2 rows Row 17: [k2tog, k2] x4 Rows 18-20: k all for 3 rows

--20 st --16 st --12 st

Pause to stuff the rest of the arm. Row 21: [k2tog, k1] x4 Row 22: k2tog around --8 st --4 st

Cut yarn leaving several inches tail, draw yarn through all stitches, knot securely. Hindlegs (make two) Cast on 12 st in Turkish cast-on Row 1: k all, distributing stitches on 3-4 needles to decrease tension Row 2: [k1, m1, k4, m1, k1] x2 Row 3: k all Row 4: [k2, m1, k4, m1, k2] x2 Row 5: k all Row 6: [k2, m1, k6, m1, k2] x2 Row 7: k all Row 8: [k1, m1, k2, m1, k6, m1, k2, m1, k1] x2 --32 stitches Row 9, k all Row 10: p all this forms a ridge between the sole of the foot and the rest of the leg Row 11-18: k all for 8 rows Weave in loose yarn in center of foot, sewing to make the bottom of the foot flat. Stuff firmly so far. Row 19: k 18, ssk, turn Row 20: slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn Row 21: slip 1 purlwise, k4, ssk, turn Row 22: slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn Row 23: slip 1 purlwise, k4, ssk, turn Row 24: slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn Row 25: slip 1 purlwise, k4, ssk, turn Row 26: slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn Row 27: slip 1 purlwise, k4, ssk, turn Row 28: slip 1, p4, p2tog, turn Row 29: slip 1 purlwise, k4, ssk, wrap next st, turn Row 30: slip 1, p4, p2tog, wrap next st, turn Row 31: slip 1 purlwise, k all to end, picking up prior wrap Row 32: k all, picking up prior wrap on seventh st Row 33-43: k all for 11 rows Row 44: k 15, wrap next st, turn Row 45: p 10, wrap next st, turn

--20 stitches

Row 46: k 9, wrap next st, turn Row 47: p 8, wrap next st, turn Row 48: k 7, wrap next st, turn Row 49: p 6, wrap next st, turn Row 50: k 5, wrap next st, turn Row 51: p 4, wrap next st, turn Row 52: k 3, wrap next st, turn Row 53: p 2, wrap next st, turn --20 stitches Row 54: k2, k next st with its wrap, wrap next st, turn Row 55: p3, p next st with its wrap, wrap next st, turn Row 56: k4, k next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 57: p5, p next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 58: k6, k next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 59: p7, p next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 60: k8, k next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 61: p9, p next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 62: k10, k next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 63: p11, p next st with its wraps, wrap next st, turn Row 64: k all (around), pick up wraps on 4th and 17th st Row 65: k 9, m1, k2, m1, k9 Rows 66-67: k all for 2 rows Row 68: k 10, m1, k2, m1, k10

--20 stitches --24 stitches

Stuff firmly up to the knee, then stuff very loosely above that. Place stitches on two needles, so that the leg folds in half vertically when the needles are lined up. (See figure 3) Do three-needle bind-off. Cut yarn with longish tail, and pull through. Snout (see Figure 4) Cast on 12 stitches in Turkish cast-on. Row 1: k1, m1, k4, m1, k2, m1, k4, m1, k1 Row 2: [k2, m1, k2] x4 Row 3: [k2, m1, k6, m1, k2] x2 Row 4: k all Row 5: [k2, m1, k8, m1, k2] x2 Row 6: k5, m1, k4, m1, k8, m1, k8, m1, k3 Row 7: k all Row 8: k all Row 9: k6, m1, k4, m1, k9, m1, k10, m1, k3 Row 10: k all

Row 11: k all Row 12: k all Row 13: k7, m1, k4, m1, k10, m1, k12, m1, k3 Row 14: k all Row 15: k all Row 16: k all Row 17: k all Row 18: k8, m1, k4, m1, k11, m1, k14, m1, k3 Row 19: k all Row 20: k all Row 21: k all

--44 stitches

Head The head shaping is done with short rows, which are picked up one row at a time. Meanwhile, decreases set in 2 stitches from the wraps will additionally shape the back of the head. To decrease tension, use 4 needles for the stitches you are working on. Row 22: k7, wrap 1, dont turn, place wrapped stitch and 7 next stitches on holder without knitting (These 8 stitches are the bottom of the chin, and will not be worked in the short rows. See figure 5). Turn. Row 23 (WS): Start working on last knitted stitch. p35, wrap 1, turn Row 24: k34, wrap 1, turn Row 25: p33, wrap 1, turn Row 26: k32, wrap 1, turn Row 27: p31, wrap 1, turn Row 28: k30, wrap 1, turn Row 29: p29, wrap 1, turn Row 30: k28, wrap 1, turn Row 31: p27, wrap 1, turn Row 32: k26, wrap 1, turn Row 33: p25, wrap 1, turn Row 34: k24, wrap 1, turn Row 35: p23, wrap 1, turn Row 36: k22, wrap 1, turn Row 37: p21, wrap 1, turn Row 38: k20, wrap 1, turn Row 39: p19, wrap 1, turn Row 40: k18, wrap 1, turn Row 41: p17, wrap 1, turn Row 42: k16, wrap 1, turn Now, pick up the wraps Row 43: p16, p next stitch with its wrap, wrap 1, turn Row 44: k17, k next stitch with its wrap, wrap 1, turn Row 45: p18, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn Row 46: k19, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn Row 47: p2, p2tog, p16, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn Row 48: k2, ssk, k16, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap 1, turn

Row 49-60: work rows 47-48 six times more --30 stitches Row 61: p2, p2tog, p16, p next stitch with its 2 wraps, wrap next st (which is on holder), turn Row 62: k2, ssk, k16, k next stitch with its 2 wraps, k next st (which is on holder) with its wrap, k 3, place marker. This is marker A, which from now on is the new row marker. --28 stitches Row 63: K 3, k next st with its wrap, k3, place marker B, k7, place marker C, k7, place marker D, k 7. Redistribute stitches evenly on the needles, and get your bearings: A is the front of the kangaroo, B its left side (ie on your right when youre looking at the kangaroo in the face), C is the back, and D is its right side. (See figure 6) Sew the ears at the corners of the head, where the decreases start. Sew or embroider the eyes. Sew or embroider the nose. Weave in any loose ends. Stuff the head, making sure it is firm.

Body All of the body shaping is done with m1 or single decreases. They may seem random, but the numbers of stitches do work out, and the kangaroo will turn out just right. Beware if you are planning to alter the pattern! So that the body shaping can be as smooth as possible, increases and decreases are done 1 stitch away from the markers. That means: Increase before marker X: k until 1 st remains before marker X, m1, k1, pass marker Increase after marker X: k to marker X, pass marker, k1, m1 Decrease before marker X: k until 3 st remain before marker X, ssk, k1, pass marker Decrease after marker X: k to marker X, pass marker, k1, k2tog The whole body is in stockinette, so except for the increases and decreases, k all Row 1: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 2: increase before B, before C, after D Row 3: k all

Row 4: increase after A, after C Row 5: k all Row 6: increase after A, after B, after C, before D Row 7: k all Row 8: k all Row 9: k all Row 10: increase before B, after D Row 11: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 12: increase before B, before C, after D Row 13: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 14: increase after A Row 15: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 16: increase before B, before C, after D Row 17: k all Row 18: increase before and after B, before and after D Row 19: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 20: increase after A Row 21: k all Row 22: increase after A, before B, after C, after D Row 23: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 24: increase after A, before and after C Row 25: k all Row 26: k all Row 27: k all Row 28: increase before and after B, before and after D Row 29: k all, but increase before A for next round Row 30: increase before B, before C, after D Row 31: k all Row 32: k all Row 33: k all Row 34: increase after A, after B, after C, before D Row 35: k all Row 36: increase after B, before D Row 37: k all Row 38: increase before and after C At this point there should be 22 st between A+B, and D+A; 18 st between B+C, and C+D. Correct any errors on the next row. Row 39: k all *for Jack or Jill only, leave out for Joey*: Row 40-47: k all If your kangaroo is small, or your hands are big, sew on the forepaws now, using the long tails you left before. They should be approximately halfway between where the A and side (B or D) markers were, about 1/2 to 2/3 between the neck and how far you are right now. Stuff the body so far, taking care to stuff the neck very firmly so it doesnt flop over.

Attach tail to body Continuing to shape the body, the tail is incorporated into the body, much like a thumb on knitted mittens. Marker C will be replaced by [C1, tail, C2]. Increase and decrease mean the same as described in the last section. Row 48: k to 1 st before C. Place new marker C1. Join tail by doing an ssk with the next stitch on the body together with the first stitch of the tail. (Make sure tail is joined with the loose yarn on the body side, to sew up any holes later). K around tail until one tail st remains. Join to body by doing a k2tog with the last tail stitch, with the next body stitch (remove C marker to do so). Place marker C2. K rest. Row 49 and all other odd rows not listed: k all Row 50: k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 51: k all Row 52: k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 53: k all, but decrease before A for next round Row 54: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 56: Decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D Row 58: Decrease after B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease before D Row 59: k all, but decrease before A for next round Row 60: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 62: Decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D Row 64: Row 58: Decrease after B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease before D Row 65: k all, but decrease before A for next round Row 66: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 67: k all, but decrease before A for next round Row 68: Decrease after A, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest. Row 69: k all, but decrease before A for next round Row 70: Decrease after A, decrease before B, k to C1, pass C1, ssk, k around tail until 2 st before C2, k2tog, pass C2, k rest except decrease after D. Row 71: k all Row 72: k to C1, remove C1, ssk, place marker C, k2tog, remove C2, k rest Row 73: k to 7 st after C, bind off 52 (passing D, A, B), leaving 16 total stitches. Bottom The bottom is knitted in stockinette back-and-forth, not in the round. It will end up a circle shape. To make life easier when seaming, slip the first stitch of each row. Row 74 (WS): p all, removing marker Row 75 (RS): p all this makes a garter ridge to separate the body from the bottom Row 76: k all

Row 77: p all Row 78: k1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 Rows 79-86: repeat rows 77+78 four more times Row 87-92: work even in stockinette Row 93: p all Row 94: k1, k2tog, k to last 3 st, ssk, k1 Rows 95-100: repeat row 93+94 three times more Row 101: p all

--26 stitches

--18 stitches

For Jill, skip to pouch section. For Jack and Joey: bind off all stitches, leaving a loooong tail to sew around the bottom Pouch The pouch is for Jill only. Its in 1x1 rib, so that Joey can fit snugly. Row 102 (RS): p all -- this makes a garter ridge to separate the pouch from the bottom Rows 103-107: k1, p1 rib Row 108: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib Row 109-113: k1, p1 rib Row 114: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib Row 115-119: k1, p1 rib Row 120: M1 at each end, and incorporate into k1, p1 rib Row 121-124: k1, p1 rib Bind off very loosely in rib. Leave a looooooong tailit will need to sew both sides of the pouch, and around the bottom. Finishing Sew forepaws if not done already. Sew hindlegs using the yarn tails on the legs. It is easier if you pin them in place first, to make sure they end up symmetric. They should be placed about 1/2 to 2/3 between where the A and side (B or D) markers were. The soles of the feet should line up with the bottom of the kangaroo. Sew them in place vertically. They will flop in and out, so if you dont like that, tack them down with a stitch on the adults. The Joeys legs need to flop out to be able to fit in the Jill. If there is a small hole where the tail joins the body, use the yarn left on the tail to close it up. Completely stuff the kangaroo, making sure it is firm, smooth, symmetric, and all-round-cute. Pin the bottom circle in place, using the garter ridges as a guide. Line up the center of the bottom with where marker A used to be. Then pin the rest in place. For Joey or Jack, seam around the bottom circle (do a few running stitches to skip the tail). Knot securely, cut yarn, and run the needle into the kangaroo briefly to bury the tail. For Jill, fold the pouch forward and up into place. Pin in place. It should about as high as the top of the legs. Starting on one side of the pouch, seam down one side of the pouch, across the bottom of the pouch, continue around the bottom circle (do a few running stitches to skip the tail), and again

across the bottom of the pouch, and up the second side of the pouch. Knot securely inside the pouch, cut yarn, and run the needle into the kangaroo briefly to bury the tail. Sit back and say Gday mate to your new kangaroo! Be nice: Please do not distribute this pattern or products made from this pattern without my permission. Please contact me at yoelknits@gmail.com with any comments, errata, or suggestions.