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Purl backwards along the first and second needles enitrely (see Rings Tutorial for photos), for a total of 12 purled stitches. Knit forwards along first and second needle as normal, continuing along third needle to complete the round.

Knitting Rings With Double-Pointed Needles

Rings look best when finished using the kitchener stitch (shown on Knitty with photos or at as a video). However, this isn't mandatory. I've started the sample for the tutorial with waster yarn that will later be removed so needles can be re-inserted, allowing for the kitchener finish. If you are unfamiliar or uncomfortable with the kitchener stitch, ignore the purple waster yarn and cast on as shown to the left (6 sts on three needles for a total of 18 sts) using the first colour. The rings also look better when the cast on and first row as well are done with needles two sizes larger. For this tutorial, I didn't do that (I'd like to say it was to show you an example of why it's a good idea to use the bigger size, but in reality I

forgot when whipping up the sample). You will see at the end that failing to do this produces a noticeable indentation at the joined ends. So, assuming you want your end result to look as good as possible, start by casting on 18 sts on US size 5 needles, 6 on each needle, using waster yarn. Change to your first colour. You are now beginning a wedge section. This is what I call one portion of the ring that contains one or more full rounds plus a series of short rows (rounds where instead of completing a round, you go back and forth to add extra stitches on one side) that forms a wedge-like section of knitted tube. Knit one round with the first colour (shown here as [d yellow). Keep this first round on the larger needles.

Switch to US size 3 needles as you continue (needle 3 will remain a size 5 for a bit while you work with needles 1 and 2, but remember to switch it to size 3 when you get to it at the end of this first wedge). Look at the knitting in your hands and think of the needles as being numbered as shown in the diagram. It really isn't the needles that are numbered so much as their position, but to help illustrate I've used a dark blue needle in the number 3 position so you can [d see that that one isn't going to move for a bit. For this round, knit as usual along needles one and two.

The trick to the wedge shape is to make short rows going back and forth on two of the needles all within one full round. Imagine that you are turning a flat piece of knitting. You'd purl "backwards" relative to the right side of the piece. But since with round knitting there is an inside and outside instead of a wrong side and right side respectively, you aren't really turning the piece in the same way as you would with flat knitting. Instead, you're going to purl in a counterclockwise direction [d back along the needles. To begin your first short row, purl back along needle 2 as shown in the diagram. Purl all six stitches.

Continue purling counter-clockwise back along needle 1, but only purl the first four stitches. To start another short row within this round, imagine that you are turning again. Leave two stitches on needle 1 and resume knitting forwards/clockwise as usual, knitting the four you just purled from needle 1.
] [d

Now knit the first four stitches on needle 2 as normal, leaving two stitches.


To start another short row, "turn" and purl back again along those four stitches on needle 2, then purl back the first two stitches on needle 1, leaving four there this time.


Now turn again to knit forward as usual and this time complete the round (this is where that number 3 needle will finally change to the smaller size, and you can see in the picture that it is no longer dark blue).


You have completed one wedge! If you flatten it out on its side as shown in this photo, you can see how the tube is curving.


Curve Section of Banana

With Aran, cast 6 sts, two on each needle (2 2 2) Knit 1 round Inc1, k1; repeat around (3 3 3) Inc1, k2; repeat around (4 4 4) Inc1, k3; repeat around (5 5 5) Inc1, k4; repeat around (6 6 6) Knit 5 rounds Work one Curve Section as above. Repeat these two steps 8 times. Knit 5 rounds Stuff and put in squeaker, if desired. K2tog the first two sts on each needle (5 5 5) K2tog the first two sts on each needle (4 4 4) K2tog the first two sts on each needle (3 3 3) K2tog the first two sts on each needle (2 2 2) Break yarn and pull through remaining 6 sts. Embroider on a face as desired.

With Espresso, cast 6 sts, 2 on each needle (2 2 2) Inc1, k1; repeat around (3 3 3) Knit half an inch long. Next row: knit all, but change middle stitch on each needle to Sunflower (colour scheme on each needle: brown yellow brown) Inc1 in all yellow sts, (4 4 4, colour: b y y b) Inc1 in all yellow sts, (6 6 6, colour: b y y y y b) Change 1st st on each needle to Sunflower, inc1 on 2nd st on each needle (7 7 7, colour: y y y y y y b) Next row: knit all as yellow (cut brown yarn). Inc1 on 1st st of each needle (8 8 8)

Curve Section of Peel

Do the following four times: Knit 6 rounds. Next round: knit all of needle 1, knit 5 sts of needle 2, purl back along needle 2, purl 5 backwards on needle 1, then knit forwards again all the way around the row.

Split off Rear Peel Sections

Work 6 rows of flat st-st on first two needles only, leaving stitches on third needle alone. *On next knit row, knit all on needle 1, then 5 on needle 2, leaving 3 sts on needle 2. Turn, purl back 5 on needle 2 and 5 on needle 1, leaving 3 sts on needle 1. Turn. Knit to end of needle 2, then do a complete purl row back.* Work 6 rows st-st on first two needles, repeat between *s as above.

Split Between Rear Peel Sections

Work 7 rows of st-st on needle 1 only (leave sts on needle 2 alone). On next purl row, purl 5 sts, turn, knit same 5 sts, turn, purl back entire row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog, then purl the next row back; repeat until 2 sts remain. Break yarn and pull through remaining two stitches.

Complete Second Rear Peel Section and Stem

Reattach yarn to second needle and work 6 rows of st-st starting with a knit row. On next knit row, knit first 5 sts, turn, purl back the same 5 sts, turn, knit complete row. Purl the next row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog, then purl the next row back; repeat until 2 sts remain. Switch to brown, knit 2. Inc1 in both sts. (4 sts) Put two sts on another needle, knit in the round until stem measures about a half inch. Inc1 in the stitches on one needle but not the other. (6 sts total, 2 on one needle and 4 on the other) Knit two rounds. Break yarn and sew through all 6 stitches, pulling tight, and then feed the yarn end down through the middle of the bunch and pull down through the stem to form a slightly dimpled end. Weave the end through the lower part of the stem to secure and hide.

Complete Front Peel Section

Reattach yellow yarn to third needle. Inc1 into first two sts, knit 4, inc1 into last 2 sts. (12 sts) Work st-st until about an inch of the banana remains when pushed fully down into the bottom of the peel (it is easier to knit without the banana in place, but push it in near the end of working this section of peel to be able to gauge how long you need it to be to meet the other sections). K2tog, knit to last 2 sts, k2tog, then purl the next row back; repeat until 2 sts remain. Break yarn and pull through remaining two stitches.