The Knitty Standard Book of British Birds alt approx beg blocking alternate approximately begin[ning] Information about

blocking can be found:

Blocking wool: I use one of these three basic ways to block wool garments. 1. Wet-blocking. Wet the pieces of the garment. If you have heavy cabling, you may want to press out the excess water using towels [NEVER WRING -- wool is fragile when wet and you can damage the fabric this way!] Pin them out to the desired dimensions and let them dry, usually over several days. 2. Steam-blocking. Pin the pieces out to desired dimensions, wrong side up. Wet an old sheet or pillowcase & wring out so it's damp. Using a hot iron, press lightly down on the pillowcase, forcing steam through the fabric. Continue until the pillowcase is dry. Alternately, skip the pillowcase and set your iron to a steam setting. Float the iron over the surface of the fabric WITHOUT TOUCHING, forcing the steam through. Let the fabric cool and dry. 3. Pin/spritz blocking. Pin the pieces out to the desired dimensions. Using a spray bottle, spritz each piece until damp [but not soaking]. This is best for fine-gauge wools. Wet-blocking is easiest for adding length. I just added four inches to a sweater sleeves and body by wetblocking and re-proportioning the garment. It was a bulkier gauge sweater, and hadn't relaxed enough during steam-blocking. It finally looks good to me; the fabric has opened up and moves more now. However, 'finessing' garment pieces can be done with a steam iron and some patience. Pin a piece [or the garment] as close as you can get them to be. Steam the crap out of it. While the piece is still warm & damp, stretch it a bit more, and steam onward. You can get stockinette stitch to lie flat if you stretch & steam it for quite some time.

BO cab CC cn CO cont dec dpn foll g i-cord

bind off [cast off] cable contrasting color cable needle cast on continue[ing] decrease[ing] double pointed needles[s] follow[s][ing] grams When working I-cord, work is not turned. Instead of turning the work around to work back on the WS, slide all sts to the other end of the needle, switch the needle back to your left hand, bring the yarn around the back of the work, and start knitting the sts again. After the first 2 sts, give the yarn a sharp tug. Repeat this row to form I-cord. After a few rows, the work will begin to form a tube. increase[ing] including instructions knit knit through back of loop knit two together knit into front and back of stitch meter[s] make bobble main color Make 1 stitch: Insert left needle, from front to back, under strand of yarn which runs between last stitch on left needle and first stitch on right needle; knit this stitch through back loop. 1 stitch increased. millimeters

inc incl inst k k tbl k2tog kfb m MB MC m1

mm

mult opp oz p p2tog patt[s] pfb pm psso rem rep rev St st RS rnd[s] sc SSK SSP sl slp sl st st[s] St st tbl tog WS w&t

multiple opposite ounces purl purl two together pattern[s] purl into front and back of stitch place marker pass slipped stitch[es] over remaining repeat reverse stockinette stitch right side[s] round[s] single crochet slip 2 stitches as if to knit, then knit those 2 stitches together slip 2 stitches as if to purl, then purl those 2 stitches together slip slip one as if to purl slip stitch stitch[es] stockinette stitch through back of loop[s] together wrong side[s] Wrap and turn. Bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next st to right-hand needle, bring yarn around this st to back of work, slip st back to left-hand needle, turn work to begin working back in the other direction. yarn over repeat directions between ** as many times as indicated

YO **