Lecture-01: Introduction of Textile Sector & Merchandising

Knitwear Woven Wear Merchandising Trade Selling Fibre Knit Garment Woven Garment Merchandising Related with Trade. Trade means Buying and Selling.

Buying and Selling Garment Yarn RMG (Ready Made Garment) Fabric Garment (Garment Factory/Garment Industry)

Textile Mills/Textile Sector MTMA BGMEA Bangladesh Textile Mills Association Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association

R & D Cell

Research and Development Cell

Textile: Textile Covers Three Areas. Areas are as follows: 01. Fibre 02. Yarn 03. Fabric 04. Finished Fabric Yarn (Spinning Mill) Fabric (Knitting Mill / Weaving Mill) Finished Fabric (Dying Mill / Printing Mill) Garment (Garment Industry) Composite Textile Mill

Future Challenges of RMG Sector: 01. Lead Time 02. Backward Linkage 03. Product Diversification 04. Price Backward Linkage of RMG Sector: Garment Industry = Garment = Fabric = Yarn Woven Fabric: Imported 70% & Locally Produce 30% Knit Fabric: Locally Produce 90% & 10% Imported Yarn: Locally Produce and also Imported from India, Pakistan Fibre: Locally not Produce. 100% Imported from China, USA, Russia and Uzbekistan. Total Garments Shipment Duration: 01. Material Collection 02. Production 03. Shipment 30 Days 30 Days 30 Days 90 Days

Lecture-02: Textile Pipeline: Fibre, Yarn & Fabric

Fibre: Fibres are the hair like raw materials that are spun into yarns and then made into fabrics. Fibres are two types: 01. Natural Fibre 02. Man-made Fibre Natural Fibre: 01. Vegetable Fibre: Cotton, Flax, Jute, Ramie, Manila, Sisal. 02. Animal Fibre: Wool, Silk, Cashmere Goat, Goat, Yak, Mohair, Rabbit, Cattle, Horse, Camel. 03. Mineral Fibre: Rock Fibres like Asbestos. Cotton Jute Linen Silk Wool Source: Plant Source: Plant Source: Plant/Flax (Produced in India, Pakistan, Indonesia) Source: Animal/Silk Worm (Silk Length is Continuous: 200 Meter to 1000 Meter) Source: Animal/Sheep (Australia, Newzeland, UK) Not Less than " or More than " 0.75" to 2.0"

Fibres Length Parameter Fibres Standard Length Cotton Imported From: 01. China 02. Uzbekistan 03. Russia/East Europe 04. USA 05. Egypt 06. India 07. Pakistan

Length: 1" to 1.25" Length: 1" to 1.25" Length: 1" to 1.25"

Length: 1.25" to 1.75" Length: 2" to 2.5" (Best Quality Cotton) Length: 1.00" Length: 1.00" Generally we do not use

Cotton: Plant Height 2 Meters and 100% Imported. 90% Cotton Used in Knitwear Garments. Man-made Fibre: 01. Natural Polymers Fibre: Viscose, Acetate, Triacetate, Rubber. 02. Synthetic Polymers Fibre: Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Polyethylene, Polypropylene, Elastane. Polyester Nylon Acrylic Polypropylene Viscose Rayon Source: Chemical Source: Chemical Source: Chemical Source: Chemical Re-Generated Fibre

Man-made Fibre is a Chemical Fibre (Artificial/Synthetic). 1

Natural Fibre (Plant/Animal)

Length: Fixed

Cotton Bale 200 kg 235 kg

Length = Fixed

Yarn

Fabric

Man-made Fibre (Chemical)

Length: Continuous

Tank (Chemical)

Length = Continuous

Yarn

Fabric

Yarn: 01. Staple Yarn 02. Filament Yarn Filament Yarn Fabric: 01. Woven Fabric 02. Knit Fabric 2 From Natural Fibre From Man-made Fibre Though Silk Fibre is a Natural Fibre but it is called Filament Yarn.

Woven Fabric: Made by interlacing of 2 sets of Yarns. Vertical Yarns are called Warp and Horizontal Yarns are called Weft.
Warp

Weft

Construction of Woven Fabric

Knit Fabric: Made by intermeshing of 1 set of Yarns. Length direction is called Wales and Horizontal or width direction is called Courses.
Wales

Courses

Loop Construction of Knit Fabric

Only one set of yarn is enough to produce knit fabric. 98% cases use horizontal. Woven Fabric: 01. Tight/Compact Kind of Fabric. 02. To Produce Two Set of Yarn Needed. 03. Produce from Weaving Mill. 04. Dimensionally Stable. 05. Woven Fabric is Produce by Interlacing. 06. Purchase Weight Yards/Meters. 07. Air Permeability not High. 08. Not High Degree of Wrinkle Resistance. 09. Not Porous Nature. 10. Not So Soft and Comfortable than Knit Fabric.

Knit Fabric: 01. Open Structure Fabric. 02. To Produce One Set of Yarn Needed. 03. Produce from Knitting Mill. 04. Dimensionally not Stable. (Stability Poor) 3

05. Knit Fabric is Produce by Interlocking/Intermeshing. 06. Purchase Weight Kilograms/Pounds. 07. Air Permeability High. 08. High Degree of Wrinkle Resistance. 09. Porous Nature. 10. Soft and Comfortable.
1m 1m 150 GSM 1m 1m 150 GSM

GSM

Gram Per Square Meter

1 kg

2.2046 lbs Produce from Yarn Produce from Fibre (Example: Interlining Fuse,

Woven Fabric & Knit Fabric

Non-Woven Fabric (Adhesive-Bonded) Interlining Non Fuse) Acrylic Substitute Fibre of Wool

Grey Fabric: Loom state Fabric is called Grey Fabric or Without any processed Fabric is called Grey Fabric.
Woven Fabric or Knit Fabric (Natural Color) from Weaving Mill or Knitting Mill

Fibre

Yarn

Grey Fabric

Grey Fabric

Fabric (Natural Color / Whitish Color / Cream Color / Off-White Color)

Finished Fabric: The Fabric which is ready to marketing that is called Finished Fabric or The Fabric which is ready to cut in garment making that is called Finished Fabric. Apparel: 01. Bespoke 02. Industrial Consumer: 01. Disposal 02. Recycling Fabric Manufacture: 01. Woven Fabric 02. Knit Fabric By Weaving By Knitting Tailoring System (Individual Clients Choice) Ready Made Garment

Weaving: Weaving is the mechanism to produced woven fabric. Where weaving is done that is called weaving machine. The machine name is loom where woven fabric produce. 4

Knitting: It is a process to make knit fabric. Where knitting is done that is called knitting machine.

Classify Knitted Fabric: Weft Knitting: 01. A method of producing fabric. 02. Yarns are fed in the width direction. 03. Loops run horizontally across the width of fabric. 04. Then making a weft knitted fabric. 05. Possible to knit one yarn only. 06. Up to 144 yarns can be used in one machine. 07. More versatile method to produce varieties.

Lecture-03: Basic Materials to Make Fabrics

Yarn: 01. Cotton 02. Linen 03. Woolen 04. Silk 05. Viscose, 06. Synthetic 100 % Cotton Carded Combed 30/1 S/J Fabric GSM: 130-135

Cotton: 01. Carded Cotton & 02. Combed Cotton

Carded Cotton: 01. Surface: Hairy (Hairy Surface Hairiness) 02. Strength: Less Stronger 03. Price: Low (Output High)
Short Fibre or Hairy Fibre Fibre Bale 200 kg Carded Yarn

Fibre Length 1" to 1.25" (Average) Has Short Fibre or Hairy Fibre Hairy Surface

160 kg Yarn (Carded)

Cccggg(Combe Combed Cotton: 01. Surface: Smooth (Better, High Quality) 02. Strength: Stronger 03. Price: High (Output Less) 1

Fibre Bale 200 kg

__________________________
Combed Yarn

Fibre Length 1" to 1.25" (Average) No Short Fibre or Hairy Fibre Smooth Surface Short Fibre Separate from Comber Machine
150 kg Yarn (Combed)

Cccggg(Combe Carded Cotton Flow Process: 1. Blow Room Combed Cotton Flow Process: 1. Blow Room

2. Carding Machine

2. Carding Machine

3. Draw Frame/Machine

3. Draw Frame/Machine

4. Roving Frame/Machine

4. Comber Machine (To Remove Short Fibre)

5. Spinning Machine

5. Roving Frame/Machine

6. Yarn

6. Spinning Machine

Carded Yarn

7. Yarn

Combed Yarn

01. c_g Cotton Fibre-Gi Bale, Blow Room-G `qv nq Ges mLvb _K Lap Product cvIqv hvq| hvi width 36 inch, length 35 to 40 yds Ges thickness cvq 2 inch. width = 36" Lap Product length = 35-40 yds/thickness about 2" 2

02. Zvici Lap Product-K Carding Machine-G set Kiv nq Ges mLvb _K Sliver cvIqv hvq| hvi diaz length 2 inch Ges Pjgvb (continuous)| diaz = 2" length = continuous 03. Zvici Sliver-K Draw Machine-G vbvwiZ Kiv nq Ges mLvb LK Sliver-B cvIqv hvq| hvi diaz length 2 inch. Draw Machine-G 6 to 8 Slivers `qv nq| Draw Machine, Sliver jvK Ub mvRv (straight) Ki| Draw Machine-Gi KvR nQ Sliver jvK more parallel Kiv| | diaz = 2"

04. Zvici Drawer Sliver-K Roving Machine-G vbvwiZ Kiv nq| GLvb _K h product cvIqv hvq Zvi diaz 0.25 inch Ges mUv big _vK weavq GKUy strength Kivi Rb 1 TPI cqvRb| (TPI = Twist Per Inch) diaz = 0.25"

05. Roving Machine _K h product cvIqv hvq mUvK Spinning Machine-G vbvwiZ Kiv nq| (Spinning Machine directly converting Roving to Yarn.) 06. Zvici Spinning Machine _K wewfb Count-Gi Yarn cvIqv hvq| (Example: 20 Count, 30 Count, 100 Count Etc.)

* Combed Cotton Flow Process-Gi Drawer Machine Process-Gi ci Drawer Sliver-K Comber
Machine-G vbvwiZ Kiv nq short fibre remove Kivi Rb| Zvici Roving Machine _K evKx process continue _vK|

PC Yarn

Polyester Cotton Yarn

TC Yarn

Tetron Cotton Yarn (Trade Name of Polyester Cotton)

Polyester Bale + Cotton Bale (Fibre) (Fibre)

PC Yarn

DU Pont Company (USA) Marketing Tetron Cotton as a Trade Name (DU Pont Company is a Chemical Produce Company). 3

PC Yarn Cotton Fibre)

Polyester Cotton Yarn (50% -Gi ekx Polyester Fibre _vKe Ges evKxUv _vKe

CVC Yarn

Chief Value of Cotton Yarn (50% -Gi ekx Cotton Fibre _vKe Ges evKxUv

_vKe Polyester Fibre ev Abvb Fibre) (Example: Cotton + Polyester, Cotton + Nylon + ....... + Etc.)

Solid Yarn

100 % or Only One Type of Fibre.

Blended Yarn (Mixed)

More than One Type of Fibre Mixer.(Example: Melange Yarn)

Melange Yarn

Cotton Fibre + Viscose Fibre (Fixed)

(Viscose Fibre is a Re-Generated Fibre)

Natural Fibre

Viscose Fibre

Synthetic Fibre

(Viscose and Silk Look Like Same. Viscose is called Artificial Silk)

Melange Yarn

Cotton Fibre (98%, White/Natural) + Viscose Fibre (2%, Black)

Bale (98 kg) Cotton Fibre

Bale (2 kg) Viscose Fibre

Blow Room

Melange Yarn

(Yarn Gi Mvqi gvS gvS Black Color _vKe|)

Melange Yarn: Melange Yarn is a Blended Yarn. It contains Cotton Fibre and Viscose Fibre. Viscose Fibre must be Dyed and always in Black Color. Melange is two types.

01. Ecru Melange Yarn (93% to 98% Cotton Fibre + 2% to 7% Viscose Fibre) 02. Grey Melange Yarn (75% to 85% Cotton Fibre + 15% to 25% Viscose Fibre)

Pink Melange Yarn & Yellow Melange Yarn

It is Color Effect or Fabric.

Anthra Melange Yarn: Anthra Melange Yarn is a trade name of Melange Yarn. This Contains 60% to 70% Cotton Fibre + 30% to 40% Viscose Fibre. It is Color Effect or Dying Effect.

Black Colored Melange Fabric is always Black.

Lycra Yarn: Elastic Yarn (100% Man Made). Lycra used 1% to 10% for Fabric. It is help to Fabric Stretchable (3% to 5% Lycra use nq Knitwear-Gi |). Up to 30% Lycra used to produce swim suit. (100% Nylon or 100% Polyester also used to produce swim suit)

Slub Yarn

Thick and Thin place in a Yarn is called Slub Yarn. It is Fancy Yarn. Slub Yarn

Grey Yarn

Natural Yarn

Yarn Dyed

Colored Yarn

Single Yarn

Always One Yarn

Plied Yarn

More than one yarn when twisted that is called Plied Yarn.

1 kg = 2.2046 lbs

Lecture-04: Yarn Numbering

Yarn Numbering: It is indicate fineness or coarseness of yarn. It is based on weight and length.

Yarn Numbering Systems: 01. Indirect 02. Direct English Number (Ne)/Count & Metric Number (Nm) Tex System (Tex) & Denier (Den) British System

American System/International System

English Number (Ne)/Count: The Number of Hanks in One Pound (lb) of Yarn is called English Number (Ne)/Count. (1 Hank = 840 yds)
Count = Coarser = No. = 20 Count = Finer = No. = 100

20 Count of Yarns

100 Count of Yarns

Yarn Count No. ekx nj Yarn Finner (wPKb) ne Ges Count No.Kg nj Yarn Coarser (gvUv) ni|

Yarn Count 30 s Combed Cotton Cone 2.0 2.5 kg Yarn

Sticker Single

Coarser

Yarn Ball = Hank (Length = 840 yds)

Cone

Yarn Count = 5

Per Yarn Ball = Per Hank (Length = 840 yds)

wt 1 lb (Fixed)

5 Yarn Balls or 5 Hanks

Finer

Yarn Ball = Hank (Length = 840 yds)

Cone

Yarn Count = 8

Per Yarn Ball = Per Hank (Length = 840 yds)

wt 1 lb (Fixed)

8 Yarn Balls or 8 Hanks

Tex System/Tex: The Weight of One Thousand Meters of Yarn in Gram is Called Tex.

Yarn Ball Length = 1000 Meters

Cone

Yarn Tex = 5 Yarn Ball Length = 1000 Meters 1000 meters (Fixed) 5 gms (Variable)

Denier/Den: The Weight of Nine Thousand Meters of Yarn in Gram is Called Denier.

Yarn Ball Length = 9000 Meters

Cone

Yarn Denier = 100 Yarn Ball Length = 9000 Meters 9000 meters (Fixed) 100 gms (Variable)

Metric Number (Nm): The Length in Meters of One Gram of Yarn is Called Metric Number (Nm). It is Less Used.

Yarn Ball Length = 50 Meters

Cone

Yarn Nm = 50 Yarn Ball Length = 50 Meters wt 1 gm (Fixed) 50 meters

Direct System: No.

i.e. Finer

Indirect System: No.

i.e. Finer

1 kg = 2.2046 lbs

1 lb = 453.6 gms

300 Tex 300 Denier

Which one is Finer?

300 Tex 300 Count

Which one is Finer?

Tex =

590.5 Count 590.5

Constant No.

Count = 300

= 1.9683 = 2

300 Count is Finer

Relation of Various Yarn Numbering: 590.5 Ne Denier 9 03. Tex = 1000 Nm 04. Denier = 5315 Ne 05. Denier = 9000 Nm 06. Nm = Ne 1.693

01. Tex =

02. Tex =

07. Ne = Nm 0.5905 1000 Tex 09. Denier = Tex 9 9000 Denier Count = 30/1

08. Nm =

10. Nm =

Yarn Count = 30 No. of Yarn = 1/Single Yarn

Yarn

Count = 30/2

Yarn Count = 30 No. of Yarn = 2/Two Plied Yarn

30 Double Yarns: Two Yarns Worked at One Yarn. Per Single Yarn Count are 30. It is not Twisted. Double Yarn is Used Either Knitting or Weaving Purposes.

Single Yarn is used for Knitting Purposes and Plied Yarn is used for Sewing Purposes.

Lecture-05: Knitting Terms

Yarn Knit Fabric
Color Tube (Red / Yellow) 30 Count/100% Cotton 2.0 - 2.5 kg/Lot - 561 01. Count 02. Lot Number 03. Weight Information of Cone

Count / 100%
Cone

04. Company Name

Same Lot Number must be used for Knit Fabric. Color Tubes indicate various Lot Number or Lot Number indicates Color.

Woven Fabric:
1" = 100 Warp Yarn Warp 1" = 50 Weft Yarn Weft

Fabric Width = 45"/4500 Yarn (100 45)

Warp Yarn = 1" = 100 Yarn = 1 Set Yarn Weft Yarn = 1" = 50 Yarn = 1 Set Yarn 2 Set Yarns

Knit Fabric:
Wales Direction (Vertical)

6 Loop

1 cm
Course Direction (Horizontal)

1 cm Weft Yarn = 1 cm = 6 Yarn = 1 Set Yarn 1

Wale: A Column of Loops along the Length of the Fabric. Measured Usually as WPC or WPI.

Wale

The Vertical Direction of Loops is called Wales. If Number of Wales is 4 cm then

WPC (wales per cm) = 4

Course: A Row of Loops across the Width of the Fabric. Measured Usually as CPC or CPI.

Course

The Horizontal Direction of Loops is Called Course. If Number of Courses is 6

cm then CPC (courses per cm) = 6

Loop Density: The Number of Loops per unit area of a Fabric. Usually it is expressed as loops per cm.

Loop Density

LD = WPC CPC = 4 cm 6 cm = 24/square cm (cm)

Area Density: The Weight of Loops per unit area of a Fabric. In Knitted Fabric, it is called GSM.

Area Density/GSM

GSM means Gram per Square Meter. The Weight of per Square

Meter Fabric in Gram is Called GSM.

Loop Length: The Length of Yarn in a Loop. Usually it is expressed in cm.

One Loop 3 mm 2.5 mm 2 mm

1 Square Meter Fabric = 120 gm = 120 GSM (For Woven Fabric 120 Ons/Yds)

1m

1m

1 Square Meter Fabric = 100 gm = 100 GSM (For Woven Fabric 100 Ons/Yds)

1m

1m

Single-Jersey Fabric: 01. Single-Jersey Fabric is a Weft Knitted Fabric. 02. Produced in Single-Jersey Machine. 03. Made on One Set of Needles in the Machine. 04. Face Side and Back Side are Different Appearance.

Face Side Fabric Appearance

Back Side Fabric Appearance

Double-Jersey Fabric: 01. Produced in Double-Jersey Machine. 02. Double-Jersey Fabric Made on Two Sets of Needles in the Machine. 03. Usually Based on Rib or Interlock Gaiting. 04. Face Side and Back Side are Similar Appearance.

Face Side Fabric Appearance

Back Side Fabric Appearance

Knit Fabric Machine: Single-Jersey Fabric Double-Jersey Fabric

Single-Jersey Machine

Double-Jersey Machine

Circular Knitting Machine

Circular Knitting Machine

01. Cylinder 02. Loop Needle 03. One Side Needle 04. Needle Vertically 05. Needle inside Grooves

01. Cylinder and Dial 02. Loop Needle 03. Two Set Needle 04. One Set Needle Vertical 05. Another Set Needle Horizontal 06. Needle inside Grooves

Groove

Vertical Needle

Horizontal Needle

Lecture-06: Knitting Machine & Knit Fabric Production

Knitting Machine: 01. Circular Machine 02. Flat Machine

Basic Concepts of Circular Machine: 01. Needle beds are arranged in circular cylinder 02. Needles are placed in cylinder 03. A variety of machine gauges, 16 30 04. A variety of machine diameters, 12 60 inch 05. Producing a wide range of fabric structures 06. Their chief limitation being that of shaping

Types of Circular Machine: 01. Sinker Top or Single-Jersey Machine 02. Cylinder and Dial Machine or Double-Jersey Machine

Single-Jersey Machine: 01. Machines have one set of needles. 02. Needles are arranged in cylinder vertically 03. Produced fabrics in different appearance. 04. In top, Sinker used, so called Sinker Top Machine. 05. 24 Gauge = Most Common

Specification: Single-Jersey Machine 01. Diameter: 12" to 60" (Most Common Diameter 18" to 36")

12" to

60"

02. Gauge: Per Inch Needles 24 to 28 (Most Common Per Inch Needles 24)

Diameter 60"

1" = 24/28 Needles

03. Feeder: Feeding Points in the Machine 40 to 278 i) Diameter 40" + = More than 100 Feeder ii) Diameter 30"- = Less than 100 Feeder

1 6 2

No. of Cone

Diameter 60"
3 4

Feeding Points in the Machine

No. of Cone

04. RPM: Revolution Per Minute 20 to 60 (Standard 35 to 40)

Double-Jersey Machine: Rib Machine & Interlock Machine 01. Machines have two sets of needles. 02. One set needle arranged in cylinder vertically. 03. Another set needle placed in dial horizontally. 04. Produced fabrics in similar appearance. 05. In top, Dial used so called Cylinder & Dial Machine. 06. 18 Gauge = Most Common in Rib Machine. 07. 22 Gauge = Most Common in Interlock Machine.

Specification: Double-Jersey Machine 01. Diameter: 12" to 60" (Most Common Diameter 18" to 36")

12" to

60"

02. Gauge: Per Inch Needles 18 to 24 (Most Common Needle 18 to 22)

Diameter
60"

1" = 18/24 Needles

03. Feeder: Feeding Points in the Machine 40 to 278 (Most Common 60 to 120)

1 6 2

No. of Cone

Diameter
60"
3 4

Feeding Points in the Machine

No. of Cone

04. RPM: Revolution Per Minute 20 to 60 (Standard 35 to 40)

Machine Diameter Times = No. of Feeder 30 30 30 30 30 4.0 3.0 2.5 2.4 2.0 = = = = = 120 90 75 72 60

Machine Diameter 3 = No. of Feeder (Common Rules of Feeder)

Needle Arrangements in Double-Jersey Machine: Rib Machine 01. Staggered Position of Needles 02. Loop Diagram: Staggered

Interlock Machine 01. Needles are Face to Face Position. 02. Loop Diagram: Face to Face.

Characters of A Circular Knitting Machine: 01. Needles: Groz-Beckert Needle, Germany Kern-Libers Sinker, Germany

02. Side Creel: Tube Type Rationalization of the Entire Circular Machine

01. Storage Feeder: Spool Type, Toothed Belts for Slip-Free Reserve Yarn Ensures Positive Yarn Feed

02. Feeder: Fixed

05. Stitch Length Meter: Measures Speed of Incoming Yarn Calculates Yarn Consumption per Cylinder Revolution.

06. Inverter: Central Processor Unit Display Indicate Voltage, Temp, Power Capacity (3.7 kw/5.5 kw)

07. Control Panel: Push Button Digital Screen Indicate R.P.M., Running Speed, 3 Shift Counter

08. Auto Stop Motion: Fabric Detector, Needle Detector Machine Indicating Light 4

Due to Fabric Hole, Yarn Breakage, Needle Breakage

09. Cam and Cam Holder: Screw Cam Box Knit/Tuck/Welt or Miss

10. Cylinder: Made by Swedish Steel

11. Cleaning Fan: 360 Degree Radar Cleaning Fan

12. Take Down: Wrap / 120 Steps Device.

13. Central Stitch Control System: Adjust Screws by Hexagonal Wrench.

Basic Knitting Elements: 01. Needles 02. Sinker 03. Cam

Needles: 01. Fundamental First Element. 02. Disposed in the Slots / Groove. 03. Forms Loops i.e. When New Yarn / Loop is Drawn then Old Loop Slides on the Outside of the Closed Loop. 04. Main Type of Needles: Latch Needle Components i) Hook, ii) Latch Blade (Latch Spoon = Latch), iii) Rivet, iv) Stem, v) But and vi) Tail.

Hook Latch Stem Butt Tail Needle

Sinkers: 01. Second Element. 02. A Metal thin Plate. 03. Situated Between Needles. 04. It Assists Needles. 05. Holding-Down Sinker-Latch Needle, Loop Formatting Sinker-Bearded Needle and KnockingOver/Casting Off Sinker-Compound Needles.

Sinker

Sinker

To Hold Down Fabric No. of Needles = No. of Sinker

Single-Jersey Machine

Cam: 01. Third Element. 02. Needles have a Reciprocating Action. 03. Two Types: Engineering Cams and Knitting Cams i.e. Knit, Tuck, Miss. 04. Butts Pass Through the Cam. 05. A Set of Cam Consisting / Components i) A Raising/Cleaning Cam, ii) A Lowering / Stitch Cam, iii) A Guard Cam and iv) An Up Through Cam (Whose Combined Effect is to cause a Needle to Carryout a Knitting Cycle.)

Cam

Yarn Loops

Cam

Help to Movement Needle.

Knit Fabric Production:

3 Red Courses of Yarn Repeat 6 Courses of Yarn 3 Yellow Courses of Yarn

3 Red Courses of Yarn Repeat 6 Courses of Yarn 3 Yellow Courses of Yarn

Knit Fabric Sample (Stripe)

Six Feeder Machine:

R
1

Diameter
60"
5 3

Y
4

6 Feeder Machine

Solid Fabric

Dyeing
R

Colored Fabric

Yarn Dyed = Red Yarn

Yarn Dyed = Yellow Yarn

Forty Eight Feeder Machine:

48

36

Diameter
60"

12

24

48 Feeder Machine

Feeding Points 1 to 3 =

Feeding Points 4 to 6 =

Feeding Points 7 to 9 =

Feeding Points 10 to 12 =

Sixty Feeder Machine:

60

45

Diameter 60"

15

30 White Courses of Yarn

Need 60 Feeder Machine Total 60 Courses of Yarn

30

60 Feeder Machine

30 Black Courses of Yarn

Knit Fabric Sample (Stripe)

60 Yarn = 60 Cone If Machine has120 Feeder or 180 Feeder then Total 60 Courses of Yarn have to repeat. i.e. 60 + 60 = 120 or 60 + 60 + 60 = 180

Lecture-07: Dyeing
Coloration To Apply Color on Material.

Materials

Fibre/Yarn/Fabric/Garment.

Color Apply (Coloration)

By Dyeing/By Printing.

Dyes + Water + Chemicals

Dyes Powder Form Chemicals HO , NaOH, NaCO , Salt, CHCOOH

Dyeing: When put the material (fibre, yarn, fabric and garment) into dye solution is called Dyeing. Dyeing apply on whole thing or total solution.

Grey Fabric before Dyeing

Dyeing Process (Middle)

Fabric Dyed after Dyeing

Method of Dyeing: 01. Stock dyeing 02. Yarn Dyeing 03. Piece Dyeing 04. Cross Dyeing 05. Garments Dyeing

Stock Dyeing: Dyeing of loose fibres before yarn processing is called Stock Dyeing. 1

Stock Dyeing

Fibre Dyeing.

Bale (98%) Grey Fibre

Bale (2%) Black Fibre

Blow Room

Yarn Stock Dyeing

Yarn Dyeing: Yarn Dyeing is a process which is done at yarn stage. It is done before weaving or knitting.

Piece Dying: Dyeing of a piece of fabric after weaving or knitting is called Piece Dyeing.

Piece Dyeing

It is a Fabric Dyeing. It is also applied on Solid Yarn.

Cross: More than one yarn in fabric is called Cross.

Cross Dyeing: Piece Dying that achieves two-color is called Cross Dyeing. Cross Dyeing Machines are two types. 01. Winch Dyeing Machine 02. Jet Dyeing Machine Dyeing Process in 100 C (Example: Cotton). Dyeing Process in Over 100 C (Example: Synthetic).

High Temperature & High Pressure Winch

Another Types of Winch Dyeing Machine.

Cross Dyeing

It is a Fabric Dyeing. It is also applied on Blended Yarn.

[Reactive Dyes (For Cotton), Disperse Dyes used for Dyeing.]

PC yarn (Polyester Cotton Yarn) Dyeing Process: First Polyester Dyeing Second Cotton Dyeing 140 C (More than 120 C) 95 C (Bellow than 100 C) 2

Garment Dyeing: When whole garments are dyed after sewn, then that is called Garment Dyeing. It is done in Washing Plant.

Shade Percentage: Shade Percentage means depth of color depends on quantity of dyes used.

Red 5% Shade

Navy 7% Shade

Black 12% Shade

White

Fabric Sample

5% Shade: 5% Shade means 5 kg dyes are required for dyeing 100 kg materials.

Red 5% Shade

Red 3% Shade

Red 2% Shade

Red 1% Shade

Fabric Sample

5% Shade 1% Shade

Darker. Lighter.

Dyeing Preparation Process:

Grey Fabrics: Without any processed fabric is called Grey Fabric. It may be Woven or Knitted.

Singeing: To remove hairy fibres from surface of textile materials by a gas flame is called Singeing.

De-Sizing: The warp yarns are sized, So De-Sizing treatment required.

Scouring: Essential treatment for natural cellulose fibres by hot wash. To remove oil surface or dirt by soap or detergent treatment from natural cellulose fibres is called Scouring. Cellulose Fibres Cotton.

Bleaching: To destroy natural (grey) colors from natural fibres for achieve whiteness is called Bleaching.

Mercerizing: It is a process by which we can achieve lustrous effect on cotton fabric or cotton fibre if necessary. (Lustrous gvb DjZv|). It is only used for cotton fabric or cotton fibre. 3

Fabric is ready for Dyeing/Printing

Softener (Chemical)

Apply for Softness.

Acid Wash

Apply for to Reduce pH.

Dyeing Process

Winch Dyeing Machine, Jet Dyeing Machine & Jigger Dyeing Machine.

After Treatment

Finishing

Finished Fabrics

Knit Fabric Sample: 01 Solid Color (Mono Color) 02. Stripe 03. Printed Yarn Dyed & Fabric Dyed.

Yarn Dyeing & Printed. Localized Dyed.

Yarn Dyeing Mill:

Re-Cone

Paper/Plastic Tube Cone Cone

Steel Tube

Woven Fabric Construction: 108 56 / 20 16, Width = 60" 108 = Per Inch Warp Yarn. 50 = Per Inch Weft Yarn. 20 = Yarn Count of Warp Yarn. 16 = Yarn Count of Weft Yarn.

Lecture-08 (Exam-Discuss)
01. Question: Write down about Knit Fabric and Woven Fabric? Answer: Knit Fabric: 01. One Kind of Fabric. 02. Open Structure Fabric. 03. To Produce One Set of Yarn Needed. 04. Produce from Knitting Mill. 05. Dimensionally not Stable. (Stability Poor) 06. Knit Fabric is Produce by Interlocking/Intermeshing. 07. Purchase Weight Kilograms/Pounds. 08. Air Permeability High. 09. High Degree of Wrinkle Resistance. 10. Porous Nature. 11. Soft and Comfortable.

Woven Fabric: 01. Another Kind of Fabric. 02. Tight/Compact Kind of Fabric. 03. To Produce Two Set of Yarn Needed. 04. Produce from Weaving Mill. 05. Dimensionally Stable. 06. Woven Fabric is Produce by Interlacing. 07. Purchase Weight Yards/Meters. 08. Air Permeability not High. 09. Not High Degree of Wrinkle Resistance. 10. Not Porous Nature. 11. Not So Soft and Comfortable than Knit Fabric.

02. Question: What is Yarn Numbering? Answer: Yarn Numbering indicate fineness or coarseness of yarn. It is based on weight and length.

03. Question: What are the Major Units Used of Fineness or Coarseness? Answer: The Major Units of Fineness or Coarseness are as follows: 01. English Number (Ne)/Count, 02. Metric Number (Nm), 03. Tex System (Tex) & 04. Denier (Den).

04. Question: What is the Relationship between Yarn Count & Yarn Tex? 590.5 Count

Answer: Tex =

05. Question: 30 Tex what does it mean? Answer: 30 Tex means the weight is 30 grams of 1000 meters of yarn.

06. Question: Which one is finer between One Tex & One Denier? Answer: One Denier is finer between One Tex and One Denier.

07. Question: Convert 30 Count to Tex or Convert 50 Tex to Count? Answer: Tex = 590.5 Count 590.5 30

Tex =

Tex = 19.68 20 30 Count 20 Tex 590.5 Count 590.5 50 = Count 590.5 50

Tex =

Count =

Count = 11.81 12 2

 50 Tex 12 Count

08. Question: Write short note about Loop Density and GSM? Answer: Loop Density: The Number of Loops per unit area of a Fabric is Called Loop Density. Usually it is expressed as Loops per cm.

GSM: GSM means Gram per Square Meter. The Weight of per Square Meter Fabric in Gram is called GSM.

09. Question: Show the Flow Process of Carded Yarn and Combed Yarn? Answer: Carded Cotton Flow Process: 1. Blow Room Combed Cotton Flow Process: 1. Blow Room

2. Carding Machine

2. Carding Machine

3. Draw Frame/Machine

3. Draw Frame/Machine

4. Roving Frame/Machine

4. Comber Machine (To Remove Short Fibre)

5. Spinning Machine

5. Roving Frame/Machine

6. Yarn

6. Spinning Machine

Carded Yarn

7. Yarn

Combed Yarn

10. Question: Why Combed Yarn better than Carded Yarn? Answer: Combed Yarn has Smooth Surface, Stronger and Better Quality than Carded Yarn. So it is Better than Carded Yarn. 3

11. Question: 30/1 or 30/2 what does it means? Answer: 30/1 = Yarn Count is 30 & It is Single Yarn. 30/2 = Yarn Count is 30 & It is Two Plied.

12. Question: Write down about Double Yarn or 30 Double Yarn? Answer: Double Yarn: Two Yarns Worked at One Yarn. It is not Twisted. 30 Double Yarn: Two Yarns Worked at One Yarn. Per Single Yarn Count are 30. It is not Twisted. Double Yarn is Used for Either Knitting or Weaving Purposes.
Yarn Count 30 30 Double Yarn Double Yarn

13. Question: Write short note of Melange Yarn? Answer: Melange Yarn is a Blended Yarn. It contains Cotton Fibre and Viscose Fibre. Viscose Fibre must be in Black Color. 98% Cotton Fibre + 2% Viscose Fibre is Called Ecru Melange Yarn (Which is Most Common) and 85% Cotton Fibre + 15% Viscose Fibre is Called Grey Melange Yarn.

14. Question: Write short note of Anthra Melange Yarn? Answer: Anthra Melange Yarn is a trade Name of Melange Yarn. This Contains 60% to 70% Cotton Fibre + 30% to 40% Viscose Fibre. It is Color Effect or Dying Effect.

15. Question: Write short note of Slub Yarn? Answer: Thick and Thin place in a Yarn is called Slub Yarn. It is Fancy Yarn.

16. Question: Discuss on Backward Linkage for Garment Industry? Answer: Garment Industry = Garment = Fabric = Yarn Woven Fabric: Imported 70% & Locally Produce 30% Knit Fabric: Locally Produce 90% & 10% Imported Yarn: Locally Produce and Imported from India, Pakistan

Fibre: Locally Not Produce. 100% Imported. Imported from China, USA, Russia and Uzbekistan. We are facing this kind of problem to collect fibre, yarn and fabric. We have to develop our textile sector expect fibre.

17. Question: 30 Double & 30/2 what does it mean? Answer: 30 Double: Two Yarns Worked at One Yarn. Per Single Yarn Count are 30. It is not Twisted 30/2: Single Yarn Count is 30 & it is Two Plied.

30/2 (Twisted) Single Yarn Count = 30 Single Yarn = 2 Twisted 2 Ply

Plied Yarn is used for Sewing Purposes. Double Yarn is used for Either Knitting Purposes or Weaving Purposes. Knitting = Single Yarn Sewing = Plied Yarn

18. Question: What is the importance to know No. of Feeder? Answer: No. of Feeder related with Production. (No. of Feeder hZ ekx ne Production ZZ ekx ne|) No. of Feeders Production [Proportional To () means mgvbycvwZK]

19. Question: What is the importance to know No. RPM? Answer: RPM related with Production. (RPM hZ ekx ne Production ZZ ekx ne|) RPM Production [Proportional To () means mgvbycvwZK]

20. Question: What are the relation of Feeder and Diameter? Answer: No. of Feeder = Machine Diameter 2 to 4 Machine Diameter 3 = No. of Feeder (Common Rules of Feeder)

21. Question: Write down about Single-Jersey Fabric and Double-Jersey Fabric? Answer:

Single-Jersey Fabric: 01. It is Knit Fabric. 02. Single-Jersey Fabric is a Weft Knitted Fabric. 03. Produced in Single-Jersey Machine. 04. Made on One Set of Needles in the Machine. 05. Face Side and Back Side are Different Appearance.

Double-Jersey Fabric: 01. It is Knit Fabric. 02. Produced in Double-Jersey Machine. 03. Double-Jersey Fabric Made on Two Sets of Needles in the Machine. 04. Usually Based on Rib or Interlock Gaiting. 05. Face Side and Back Side are Similar Appearance.

22. Question: What is Knitting and Weaving? Answer: Knitting: It is a Process to Make Knit Fabric. Where Knitting is done that is called Knitting Machine. Weaving: Weaving is the Mechanism to Produced Woven Fabric. Where Weaving is done that is called Weaving Machine. The Machine name is Loom where Woven Fabric Produce.

23. Question: Write short note of Gauge? Answer: Number of Needles per inch of Diameter is called Gauge.

24. Question: What is Textile? Answer: Textile Covers Three Areas. Areas are Fibre, Yarn and Knitting.

25. Question: What is Merchandising? Answer: Merchandising Related with Trade. Trade means Buying and Selling.

26. Question: What is Grey Fabric? Answer: Loom state Fabric is called Grey Fabric or Without any processed Fabric is called Grey Fabric.

27. Question: What is Finished Fabric? Answer: The Fabric which is ready to marketing that is called Finished Fabric or The Fabric which is ready to cut in garment making that is called Finished Fibre.

28. Question: What is Single Yarn? Answer: Single Yarn is always One Yarn

29. Question: What is Plied Yarn? Answer: More than one Yarn when twisted then that is called Plied Yarn.

30. Question: Write down about English Number (Ne)/Count, Tex System (Tex), Denier (Den) and Metric Number (Nm)? Answer: English Number (Ne)/Count: The Number of Hanks in One Pound (lb) of Yarn is Called English Number (Ne)/Count. Tex System/Tex: The Weight of One Thousand Meters of Yarn in Gram is Called Tex. System (Tex). Denier/Den: The Weight of Nine Thousand Meters of Yarn in Gram is Called Denier (Den). Metric Number (Nm): The Length in Meters of One Gram of Yarn is Called Metric Number (Nm).

Filling the Blank:

1 Hank =

840

Yards

Tex =

1000

Meters

Denier =

9000 Meters

Yarn: 01. Regular Yarn: Carded Yarn, Combed Yarn, PC Yarn/TC Yarn, Melange Yarn. 02. Fancy Yarn: Slub Yarn, Lurex Yarn

Lecture-10: Printing
Basic Printing Techniques:

Printing: Printing is the localized dyeing. It is applied color onto surface of a fabric. Printing is used to apply design on fabrics. (Kvcoi wbw` RvqMvq eenvi nq|)

Hand Printing

Block.

Roller Printing

Engraved.

Dyestuffs Printing.

Dyestuffs are applied in both Block, Engraved-Roller and on Screen for

Screen Printing: 01. Flat-Bed & 02. Rotary Screen.

Flat-Bed Screen Printing

The portions of the design to be printed are made of porous

nylon that allows the color to pass through the screen.

Rotary Screen Printing screen as it rolls over the cloth.

Dyes is forced into the roller cylinder and through its porous

Paper Printing or Heat Transfer Printing and fabric are put through hot rollers.

First print dyestuffs onto paper. The paper

Several Types of Printing Technologies:

Direct Printing: When printing paste applied directly to the fabric surface, then that is called Direct Printing.

Overprinting: When a plain dyed fabric is printed with a darker color, then that is called Overprinting.

Discharge Printing: When dyed fabric is overprinted by discharge pastes which destroy the color, then that is called Discharge Printing.

White Discharge: When original white is restored to the printed area of a fabric, then that is called White Discharge.

Color Discharge: When a separate color is applied to the printed area of a fabric, then that is called Color Discharge.

Resist Printing: When a white fabric is printed with a resist paste, then that is called Resist Printing. Resist areas can also be white or colored. Batik is a Resist Print. Tie-Dye is a process of Resist Print.

Pigment Printing: When the pigment is attached to the fabric surface with a resin (film-forming binder), then that is called Pigment Printing. About 50% prints is Pigment Print. Pigments other version is Lacquer Printing.

Warp Printing: Before weaving, a pattern is printed onto the warps is called Warp Printing. It is used for woven fabric.

Lacquer Printing: When printing the fabric with a colored resin that forms a shiny film, then that is called Lacquer Printing.

Definition of Fabric: Grey Fabric: Without any processed fabric is called Grey Fabric.

Scored Fabric: To remove oil surface or dirt by soap or detergent treatment from natural cellulose fabrics is called Scored Fabric.

Mercerized Fabric: To achieve lustrous effect on cotton fabric if necessary is called Mercerized Fabric.

Bleached Fabric: To destroy natural (grey) colors from natural fabric for achieve whiteness is called Bleached Fabric.

Dyed Fabric: When natural fabric (grey fabric) is dyed by dyeing process, then that is called Dyed Fabric.

Printed Fabric: When printing is applied color onto surface of a fabric, then that is called Printed Fabric.

Finished Fabric: The Fabric which is ready to cut in garment making that is called Finished Fabric.

Lecture-11: Merchandiser Co-ordination with Production Management

Merchandising & Production Management:

Merchandiser: Merchandiser should receive a product package papers from buyer. Then photocopy it, write some comments and send it to sample room to Sample Manager or Pattern Master. Merchandiser is a part of Production Management.

Product Package

To make a sample for buyer requirement.

Product Package: Product Package is a group of paper sheet which contents the following information. Product Package: 01. Item Design + Sketch 02. Measurement Chart 03. Fabric Details 04. Accessories Details 05. Stitch Types & Details 06. Others (Example: Embroidery, Printing, Wash, Etc.)

Accessories: Expect fabrics the other materials are known as accessories.

Buyer

Merchandiser

Sample Room

Merchandiser Co-ordination & Sample Room Function: 01. Product Package sends to Sample Section. 02. Sample Development by Working Pattern. 03. Sample Making. 04. Sample Send to Merchandiser. 05. Merchandiser sends Sample to Buyer (By Fed-Ex/DHL). 06. Buyer Give Comments after getting the Sample (Within 3 Days/5 Days). 07. If Sample is Ok then Merchandiser get Approved Sample, otherwise Sample should be remake by Working Pattern.

Garments industry: 01. Sample Room/Section 02. Cutting Room/Section 03. Sewing Room/Section 04. Finishing Room/Section 05. Store Room/Section Merchandiser Co-ordination

Sample Development Process:

1. Product Package

2. Working Pattern

3. Sample Garment (Basically 3 Pcs)

4. Send to Buyer Re-make [2 Pcs for Buyer, 1 Pcs for Sample Room (1 Pcs Called Counter Sample)]

5. If Ok If not Ok (Received Comments) 6. Approved Sample

Pattern Description 01. Front Pattern 02. Back Pattern 03. Sleeve Length Pattern 04. Neck Pattern Total

Pattern Pcs 1 1 1 1 4 Pattern Pcs

Cutting Pcs 1 1 2 1 5 Cutting Pcs

4 Pcs Pattern = 1 Set Pattern, Pattern will be ready by sample section, Size = S, M, L, XL. 2

Patterns:

Chest (100 cm) Chest (50 cm)

CBL (Cntre Back Length) [70 cm (Rib ev`)]

Front Side Pattern

Back Side Pattern

Right Sleeve Length

Left Sleeve Length

Collar

Pocket

Front Side Shape-G Dcii w`K Neck GKUz bxPz _vK| Back Side Shape-G Dcii w`K Neck Zzjbvg~jKfve Front Side Shape _K GKUz DPz _vK |

Pattern: The individual parts of a garment which is shaped by hard drawing paper is called pattern. Following information should have on to pattern: 01. Size, 02. Style No., 03. Parts Name and 04. Grain Line

Four pieces pattern need for a T-Shirt, four pieces pattern is called one set pattern.

Four pieces pattern are required to make one garment, four pieces pattern is called one set pattern, so one set pattern is required to make one garment.

Working Pattern

Only for Sample Making (Not Approved).

Sample

We should always make on M-Size sample. If buyer not mention size then we

will make M-Size sample.

Fabric Details

100% Cotton, 30/1 Combed Yarn, S/J Fabric, GSM: 130-135.

T-Shirt

T-Shape and has no Collar.

Polo Shirt

Shirt with Collar.

T-Shirt

Master Pattern

Approved Pattern. This pattern is for bulk production.

Pattern Grading: S Size = 1 Set Pattern. M Size = 1 Set Pattern. L Size = 1 Set Pattern. XL Size = 1 Set Pattern.

Pattern Grading: Stepwise increase or stepwise decrease of master pattern is called Pattern Grading.

Production Pattern

These pattern sets (S, M, L, XL, and XXL) are used for bulk

production (huge quantity production).

Basic Function of Sample Room: 01. Sample Development. 02. Pattern Making (Master Pattern). 03. Pattern Grading (S M L XL). 4