Ed Struzik gives a canny and compelling tour of a world in dangerous and rapid flux.

Bill McKibben, author of Deep Economy

THE

Adventures in the vAnishing Arctic

BIGTHaw
WITH A NEW FOREWORD BY THE AUTHOR

e d st r u Z i K

Pr ai se f o r T he Bi g Tha w
 Struzikistherealdeal.Hesamanlymanoftheold-fashionedsort,equally adeptwithakayakpaddle,arifle,acompass,acamera,alaptopandfuelled in part by a conviction that how we perceive and treat Canadas northern regionswhatdegreeofstewardshipandrespectwedemonstratetoward Arcticpeople,critters,theenvironment,theworksspeakstoacoredefinitionofwhatkindofnationweare.AlltheseattributesinformStruziks latestandperhapsmostimportantbook.Struzikbringsthethreatofglobal warminghomewithfirst-personimpact.Thiseye-openingtraveloguecomes withjustenoughscientificandpolicybackgroundforadequatecontext.A bookofdeepimporttothecountry. DanSmith, Toronto Star  Thisbookwilltakeyouononeadventureafteranother.Itwillalsobringyou intimateencounterswithsomeofthecoolestcreaturesontheplanet.The booksbiggestrevealisthattheradicalchangesaffectingthefarnorthare nolongerjustanArcticconcern,butratheraglobalcrisis. The Big Thawis atrulyeye-openingtale.Thewide-rangingeffectsofclimatechangeinthe Arcticexpressedbythisgiftedwriterandmodern-dayexplorerareamustreadforeverybody. JuliaBird,DiscoveryChannel.ca  Struzik[s]thoughtfulreportageoffersreadersanarrestingportraitofhow quicklythenorthernlandscape,includingeveryecologicalnookandcranberrybogthathumansandotherspeciesinhabit,isbeingtransformed. MargoMcCaffrey,Canadian Geographic  AgoodplacetostartwhentryingtounderstandhowclimatechangeisaffectinglifeintheNorth,andCanadianresponsibilitiesandsovereigntythere. Struzikhassharedthequotidiandemandsofdeep-searesearchaboardan icebreaker,riskedhislifewithscientistsandaboriginalhuntersonunstable floesandglaciers,intrudedonthedomainofpolarbearsandgrizzlies,and fedhisshareofmosquitoes.Andhecanwrite. ErlingFriis-Baastad,The Globe and Mail  Anirresistiblemixoflyricalwriting,adventurousfeet-on-the-groundtravel, solidreportingandacuteobservationofthedirethingsthatarehappening intheArctic.Weshouldlockeverypoliticianandcorporateexecutiveintoa roomandkeepthemthereuntiltheyhavereadandunderstoodthemessage Struzikisbringingus.Itisthatimportant.  MarqDeVilliers,authorofThe End: Natural Disasters, Manmade Castastrophes, and the Future of Human Survival

 TravelingintimeandspaceacrosstheArctic,in The Big ThawEdStruzik describesatfirsthandthemostalarmingenvironmentalcrisisofourtimes. ItsalandthatStruzikispassionateabout,andhewritesofitsfrozenbeauty withaneleganceofprosenotseensinceBarryLopezArctic Dreams. TimFlannery,authorofThe Weather Makers  The top of the world is profoundly different than ever before in human  history.Climatechangeisalreadyinfluencingthelivesofthelocals,from Inuittopolarbears.Butitspoisedtomakelifehardfortherestofus,too. EdStruzikgivesacannyandcompellingtourofaworldindangerousand rapidflux.  BillMcKibben,authorofEaarth: Making a Life on a Tough New Planet and Deep Economy  All-embracing, luminous and provocative, The Big Thaw is a fascinating chronicleofaninfinite,threatenedCanadianArctic.Struzikexpertlymelds past and present into a thought-provoking story about what the current globalwarmingmeanstoCanadaandtheworld.Hecombinesthehuman andscientificnarrativesintoawonderfulsynthesisamplifiedbyhiswonextensivetravelsthroughtheNorth.Everyoneinterestedintheimplicationsof awarmingplanetshouldreadthisremarkablebook.  BrianFagan,archeologist,historianandauthorofThe Great WarmingandThe Little Ice Age  EdStruzik,oneofthoserarejournalistswhocanpaddleacanoeandenjoy amealofwhaleblubber,haswrittenanimportantandshockingbookthat readslikesomenewgenreofadventureandhorrorstory.AstheArcticmelts andunravelsfasterthantheglobalbankingsystem,The Big Thawraisessome starkquestions:JustwhatwillCanadabewithouticeandsnow?Andwhat isanationwithoutitsdreams?  AndrewNikiforuk,authorof Tar Sands: Dirty Oil and the Future of the Continent Animportantbook.Urgent,timely,heartfelt.  WillFerguson,authorofBeauty Tips Moose Jaw: Travels in Search of Canada

The Big Thaw

a d v e n t u r e s i n t h e Va n i s h i n g a rc t i c

ed STruzik

John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd.

Copyright 2011, 2009 Ed Struzik All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic or mechanical without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any request for photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems of any part of this book shall be directed in writing to Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency (Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright license, visit www.accesscopyright.ca or call toll free 1-800-893-5777. Care has been taken to trace ownership of copyright material contained in this book. publisher will gladly receive any information that will enable them to rectify any reference or credit line in subsequent editions. author and publisher gratefully acknowledge permission granted to reproduce the following material: Excerpt from Enigmas by Pablo Neruda, translated by Robert Bly, copyright 1971, 1993 by Robert Bly, reprinted from Neruda and Vallejo: Selected Poems. Permission granted by Robert Bly. F.R. Scotts poem Flying to Fort Smith, copy. right 1962, 1967 by the Sixties Press, reprinted from Permission granted by William Toye, literary executor for the authors estate. Portions of this book were previously published in the Toronto Star and the Edmonton Journal. Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Struzik, Ed, 1954 big thaw : adventures in the vanishing Arctic / Ed Struzik. Includes index. ISBN 978-0-470-93216-2 9780470157664 (ebk); 9780470737064 (ebk); 9780470737071 (ebk) 1. Climatic changesEnvironmental aspectsArctic regions. 2. Habitat (Ecology)Arctic regions. 3. Global warming. 4. Global environmental change. 5. Arctic regionsEnvironmental conditions. 6. Arctic regionsClimate. 7. InuitSocial conditions. 8. Arctic regionsPolitics and government. I. Title. QC994.8.S77 2011 363.7387409113 C2010-907589-7

Production Credits Cover design: Adrian So Cover photo and photo inserts: Ed Struzik Interior design and typesetting: Adrian So Printer: Solisco Tri-Graphic Printing Ltd. John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd. 6045 Freemont Blvd. Mississauga, Ontario L5R 4J3 Printed in Canada 1 2 3 4 5 SOL TRI 15 14 13 12 11

A R C T I C

O C E A N
AB

Barrow

Beaufort Sea
(UNITED STATES)
Yukon R iver

QU
M cC lur
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Axel Heiberg Island

IS

S D N Ellesmere A

Island

Eureka Fossil forest Strathcona Fiord

Fairbanks Delta Junction

Tuktoyaktuk Old Aklavik Inuvik Crow

Kluane National Park

Goatherd Mountain ig Whitehorse hwa y

Mile 1004 (Location of Squirrel Camp) Al

Yukon

Great Bear Lake

Victoria Island

M Clintock Channel

Alaska

Arctic National Wildlife Refuge Ivvavik National Park Herschel Island

Banks Island

Melville Island

Bathurst Island

Polar shelf

Haughton Crater

Devon Island

Bafn Bay

Lancaster Sound

ra St

it

Brintnell Glacier

iver zie R Macken

Northwest Territories
Yellowknife Great Slave Lake

k Bac

ver Ri

Repulse Bay

Foxe Basin

Nunavut
Rankin Inlet

Southampto Island Marble Island Hudso Bay

ka as

OCEAN PA C I F I C

British Columbia

Lake Athabasca

Churchill

Alberta Saskatchewan

Manitoba

Ontario

IZ

AB

Axel Heiberg Island

IS

S D N Ellesmere A

Island

Eureka Fossil forest Strathcona Fiord

(DENMARK) Bafn Bay

Savissivik Tasiilaq

Greenland

elville sland

Bathurst Island
M Clintock Channel

Polar shelf

Haughton Crater

Devon Island

Lancaster Sound

Da

Skansen

vi

sS t

ra

Victoria Island

Ban Island
Foxe Basin

it
Nuuk (Godthab)

Pangnirtung

Cum

berla nd So u

nd

k Bac

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Repulse Bay

Iqaluit

Nunavut
Rankin Inlet

Southampton Island Marble Island Hudson Bay Quebec Ontario

L ou is St . La uren t

Labrador Sea

Nunavik

Labrador & Newfoundland

Churchill

hewan

Manitoba

Foreword
Since the hardcover edition of this book was published, climate change skepticism has soared. In the weeks leading up to the November 2010 electionsintheUnitedStates,theCentreforAmericanProgress,aliberal think-tank,revealedthathalfoftheRepublicansinCongressareclimate changeskeptics. Thenewsdidnotcomeasasurprisetothosewhohavebeenwatchingtheissueunfoldoverthepastyear.ProminentRepublicans,suchas CongressmanJoeL.BartonofTexas,hadbeenpromisingtoinvestigate the so-called Climate-gate scandal, in which e-mail correspondence hacked from a number of leading climate scientists purportedly demonstrated that they had manipulated data and suppressed research that provedtheworldwasnotwarmingasrapidlyashadbeenreported. Eventhoughfiveindependentpanelsclearedthescientistsandconcludedthattheresearchbehindclimatechangewassolid,pollscontinue toshowthatanincreasingnumberofAmericansthinkthattheseriousnessofclimatechangehasbeengreatlyexaggerated,asentimentthatis growinginCanada,too. Frustratedbythisdisconnectbetweentruthandperceptionandbythe inaction of both the U.S. and Canadian governments, scientists on both sidesoftheborderhavebeenfightingback.IntheU.S.,JohnAbraham,of St.ThomasUniversityinMinnesota,recentlyannouncedplanstoorganize aclimaterapidresponseteam:scientistswillingtogoonconservativetalk radioandtelevisionshowstoconfronttheskeptics.InCanada,500ofthe countrysleadingscientistssignedanopenlettertoPrimeMinsterStephen Harpercallingonhimtodomoreonclimatechange. Regardless of public opinion, the planets climate is changing, and thenorthistransforming.WhileArcticicerapidlymeltsandrevealsnew, resource-richterritory,Canada,theUnitedStates,Denmark,Russiaand Norwayrace to stake their claims.Theenergy derived from this Arctic oilandgaspromisestogiveNorthAmericatheenergysecurityitdesires. Itcouldalsobethesalvationfornorthernculturessufferingfromsevere unemployment.

FOREWORD

But the race for the Arctic could also result in an environmental catastropheasdevastatingasorevenworsethanthedamagedonebythe ExxonValdezortherecentoilspillintheGulfofMexico.Unlikewestern AlaskaortheGulfstates,therearenoportsintheArcticfromwhichto stageacleanup,noristhereanyknownwayofrecoveringoilfromice. Withsealevelsrising,permafrostthawing,andArcticstormspicking upsteam,dozensofcoastalcommunitiesintheArcticareslidingintothe sea.PolarbearsalongthewestcoastofHudsonBayweresostarvedfor sealhuntingice-timein2009thateightofthemendedupcannibalizing other bears. Meanwhile, warmer temperatures are pushing the treeline farther north onto the tundra, allowing southern animals to move into a habitat for which Arctic animals were uniquely adapted. An increasingnumberofkillerwhalesareexploitingice-freeconditions,preyingon belugaandnarwhal. Thosewhothinkthereisplentyoftimeforhumanstoadjusttoor capitalizeonthechangesthataretakingplaceshouldconsiderthatclimatemodelshaveseriouslyunderestimatedhowquicklythechangesthat havehappenedalreadywouldoccur.Iwasremindedofthatinthesummer of2010whenIvisitedwithRogerKuptana,anInuithuntingguide.A groupofInuithuntershadjustsetoffbyboat,takingadvantageofice-free conditionstosearchforPearycaribou.Kuptanadidntgivethehunters muchchanceofsucceeding. Ithinkitsawasteofgas,hetoldme. ThereusedtobealotofcaribouaroundherewhenIgrewup.Some scientistssaytenthousandatonetime.Butnowyouhavetotravelpretty farnorthtofindthemontheisland.Itsnotjusthere.Itseemslikethisis happeningeverywhere. Like other Inuit elders, Kuptana was seeing first-hand what I had onlydiscoveredonmytravels:theArcticworldischanging,andthereare morechangestocome.Ifwecontinuetoignorewhatishappening,we ignoreitatourperil. Ed Struzik Edmonton November2010

inTroducTion
Many countriesand they are to be enviedpossess in one direction or another a window which opens out on to the infiniteon to the potential future. . . . The North is always there like a presence, it is the background of the picture, without which Canada would not be Canadian.
FrenchgeographerAndrSiegfried,1937

In the summer of 1985, helicopter pilot PaulTudge was flying over AxelHeibergIslandintheHighArcticwhenhespottedwhathethought weretreestumpsstickingoutofthegroundneartheedgeofagiantice cap.WhenTudgereportedthesightingtoscientists,theywereinitially skeptical. Nevertheless, geologist James Basinger and Australian paleobotanistJaneFrancisflewupthenextyeartohaveacloserlook.Itdidnt takelongforthemtorealizethattheyhadfoundtheHolyGrailofArctic fossilforests1,200miles(2,000km)fromtheneareststandoftrees. Notonlyweretheretreestumpsstickingoutofthepermafrost,but somethatthescientistseventuallyfoundburiedbelowweremorethan8 feet(2.5m)wideandmorethan16feet(5m)long.Throughgeological detectivework,Basingerandhiscolleagueswereabletodatethesetrees toatime45millionyearsago.Manyofthenuts,seedsandconeswereso perfectlypreservedtheylookedasiftheyhadonlyrecentlyfallentothe

INTRODUCTION

ground. Moreover, the specimens were mummified, not petrified. Some stillheldthesaptheyoozedbeforeacatastrophicfloodburiedtheminan anaerobictombofsand. Oncenewsofthediscoverygotout,firstinascientificjournaland then in Time magazine, pseudo-scientists who had probably seen the movie Jurassic Park one too many times asked Basinger for samples of thegoldenamberinthehopestheymightextracttheDNAofaninsect thatmayhavegottrappedinside.Creationists,ontheotherhand,were convincedBasingerhadfoundthemountaintopwhereNoahsArkhad landed.Appalledbythislunacy,Basingerstayedoutofthemediaspotlight for many years before allowing me to join him at the site in the summerof1998. By that time, Basinger and Francis had assembled a picture of the sceneasitmusthavebeensomanymillionyearsago:aDawnRedwood swampfilledwithroyalfernsandcypressthatflourisheddownstreamof anuplandenvironmentdottedbypine,spruceandwalnut.Notfaraway, colleaguesJaelynEberleandJohnStorerhadunearthedthescantremains ofabrontothere,arhinoceros-likeanimalthatlivedinthisworldthatwas aswarmandlushastodaysCarolinianforestsofGeorgiaintheUnited States. The mean ocean surface temperatures back then were between 50Fahrenheit and 59Fahrenheit (10C and 15C), a far cry from the 14Fahrenheit(-10C)experiencedtoday. ThiswasntthefirsttimescientistshadevidenceofanancientArctic Eden,anditwouldntbethelast.Mostoftheworld,however,barelynoticed when Mary Dawson and Robert West, vertebrate paleontologists attheCarnegieMuseumofNaturalHistoryandtheMilwaukeePublic Museumrespectively,excavatedarichveinofvariedlifeformsintheHigh Arcticin1975.Inamongtherocks,gravelandpeatalongtheicyshoresof StrathconaFiordonEllesmereIsland,theyfoundfossilfragmentsofalligators,gianttortoises,snakes,lizards,tapirs,hippoandrhino-likeanimals thatlived55millionyearsago. Nordidanyonebutahandfulofpaleontologistsandgeologistspay much attention in the 1980s when Richard Grieve and scientists from Canada,theUnitedStatesandGermanyunearthed,amongotherfossils,

INTRODUCTION

a primitive rhinoceros at Haughton Crater on Devon Island that turned outtobe39millionyearsold.Whilenotquiteaswarmasitwas45millionor55millionyearsago,themeanannualtemperaturestherewerehigh enoughtosustainamixedconifer-hardwoodforestintheyearsbeforea meteoritespeedingat37,300milesperhour(60,000km/h)slammedinto thegroundwithaforceofenergyequaltothatofathousand-megaton blast.Whenthewhite-hotremnantsofjaggedbrecciarockfelltoearth andmixedwithgroundandsurfacewater,theyspewedadeadlycloudof steamandgasthatkilledalllifewithina90-mile(150km)radius. As an Arctic traveler and science writer who had visited both the AxelHeibergfossilforestandDevonIslandcratersites,theclimaticimplicationsofthesefindingswerestillnotentirelycleartomeeventhen. Not until I traveled to Strathcona Fiord in 1999 did I come to realize thatsincethedeepfreezeofSnowballEarth1 ended 630 million to 750 millionyearsago,theArctichasoftenbeenanythingbuttheforbiddingly coldplaceweknowsowelltoday.There,onahilltopatStrathconaFiord just6miles(10km)fromMaryDawsonsoldcamp,RichardHarington, apaleontologistwiththeCanadianMuseumofNature,wasinthelast stagesofexcavatinga4.5-million-year-oldbeaverpondsitethathadbeen found years earlier by geologist John Fyles. In addition to the remains of miniature beavers that would have been constantly on the lookout for predators such as ancestral black bears, weasel-like carnivores and Eurasianbadgers,Haringtonandhiscolleagueshadunearthedthefossils ofthree-toedhorsesanddeerthathadfangsbutnoantlers.Someofthe fossilsweresoexquisitetheexcavationteamwasabletodeterminewhat tundrabunnieswereeatingatthetime.Temperatures4.5millionyears agowereatleast10degreeswarmerinsummerand15degreeswarmerin winterthantheyaretoday. Haringtons extraordinary discoveries at Strathcona Fiord followed his equally remarkable findings along the Whitestone River in the
1.  Snowball Earth is the term scientist Joe Kirschvink (California Institute of Technology) coined in the 1980s to describe global glaciation, the time in the Earths history when most if not all of the world was covered in snow and ice. The dates of this glaciation are still being debated.

INTRODUCTION

northern Yukon. There, he and Peter Lord, a Gwichin from Old Crow inthenorthernYukon,unearthedthefossilsofwoollymammoths,giant slothsand6-foot-tall(2mtall)beaversthatsharedtheBeringianworld oftheYukonandAlaskawithscimitarcats,Americancamelsandmastodonsbetween70,000and9,000yearsago. No one really knows exactly why it was warm for so long in the Arctic.Unlikeourcurrentsituation,wheregreenhousegasemissionsare themaindriverforclimatechange,theEarthsclimatehasrespondedin thepasttovariationsintheEarthseccentricity,axialtiltandprecession.2 Volcanicash,theformationofgyres,3 methane seeping from permafrost andpercolatingfromtheoceanfloorwereotherfactorsthatlikelycontrolledtheEarthsthermostat. What we do know from fossil evidence found in ancient lake and oceanfloorbeds,icecoresandpermafrostsuggeststhatatrendtocoolingbeganshortlyafterlargemammalsreplacedthedinosaurs65million yearsago.Thisgradualcooling,interspersedwithepisodesofincreasing warmth, led to the gradual buildup of ice sheets in the Arctic shortly afterthemeteoriteslammedintoDevonIsland.BythetimeHaringtons miniaturebeaverswerewatchingoutforEurasianbadgersonEllesmere Island,acatastrophiccyclingofadvancingandretreatingglaciersinthe Arcticbegantotakehold. Inrelativelyrapid-firefashion,thecoldwipedouttheArcticforests, theminiaturebeaversandtheEurasianbadgers.Eventhewoollymammoths,Americanmastodons,sabertoothedcatsandgiantslothsthattook theirplacehundredsofthousandsofyearslaterwereunabletoweather thecyclesofcoolingandwarmingthatglaciated30percentoftheEarths surfaceatoneendoftheextremeandturnedhugeswathsoftundrainto forestsandshrublandsontheother.Whatweareleftwithtodayinthe Arctic are the survivorsthe polar bears, narwhals, bowheads, belugas,
2. EccentricityistheshapeoftheEarthsorbitaroundthesun.Axialtiltistheinclinationof theEarthsaxisinrelationtoitsplaneoforbitaroundthesun.PrecessionistheEarthsslow wobbleasitspinsonitsaxis. 3. Gyresaregiantcircularoceansurfacecurrentsthatswirlbothclockwiseand counterclockwise.

INTRODUCTION

muskoxen and Peary caribouthat were able to evolve and adapt to this viciouscyclingandtothedeepfreezethathascharacterizedtheArctics mostrecentpast.

These are heady times for scientists. Now that man-made greenhouse gasesarerapidlywarmingtheArctic,manyscientistsfearthatwehave reachedthetippingpoint,thetermclimatologistMarkSerrezeusesto describewhathappenswhenacriticalthresholdofwarmingintheArctic passesthepointofnoreturn. Withseaicemelting,glaciersrecedingandArcticstormspickingup steam,theArcticismovingtowardanewstateunlikeanythingrecordedin humanhistory.Nooneknowsexactlywhattoexpectinthefuture,butifthe pasttellsusanything,theconsequenceswillbecatastrophicinmanyways. Awarmerandshortericeseasonmeanslesstimeforpolarbearsto huntsealsandmoretimeformosquitoesandblackfliestotaketheirtoll oncaribou,muskoxenandnestingbirds.Belugawhales,whichhideunder theicetoavoidkillerwhales,couldalsobethreatened. HeatthreatensArcticspeciesinotherwaysaswell.Theresevidence thatarcticchar,arcticfox,narwhalandothernorthernspeciesmaynot beabletocompeteifPacificsalmon,redfoxandkillerwhalescontinue to migrate north into their territory.This is not just futuristic speculation.IncreasingnumbersofPacificsalmonhavebeenshowingupinInuit nets.The ice-choked channels that used to stop or at least deter killer whalesfrommovingintonarwhalandbelugaterritoryhaveopenedup inthesummermonths.In2006and2007,killerwhalesmayhavebeen responsibleforchasinghundredsofbelugawhalesintotheshallowHusky LakesregionofthewesternArctic,wherewintericeeventuallytrapped andkilledthem. WithsomuchicemeltingintheArctic,manymoreAlaskanpolar bearsarenowdenningonlandratherthanontheseaice,andgraywhales, whichtraditionallyleavetheChukchiSeaforwarmerwatersalongthe CaliforniaandMexicocoastsbetweenOctoberandmid-December,are beginningtostaynorthforthewinter.

INTRODUCTION

Human activity has also been facilitating this northward movement of southernanimals.White-taileddeerarenowexploitingthevastnetwork of roads, cutlines4 and pipeline right-of-ways carved through the thick boreal forest to the edges of the tundra and high alpine environments. Cougars,coyotesandotherpredatorsarefollowingthemintothisnew warmerworld.Andnowthatcoldwintersarenolongersomurderous, diseasesthatwereonceunabletotakerootintheArcticarebeginningto moveininsomecaseswiththoseanimalsheadingnorth. Theoretically,apolarmeltdowncouldshutdowntheoceanconveyor beltthatbringswarmwaterintotheNorthAtlanticandmoderatesthe climateofGreatBritainandnorthernEurope.Risingsealevelsbrought on by this meltdown could displace the 104 million people who live in coastalareasthatarewithin3feet(1m)oftheoceansurface.Thosewho liveonhighergroundalsowontescapethecomingchanges.Polariceisthe genesisofcoldfrontsthatbringrainandsnowtomuchoftheworld.Ifit shrinks,winterswontgoaway.Buttheproblemsthatpeopleindrought- andwet-weather-strickenregionsarenowfacingcouldgetworse. Therestoftheworldwillalsobevulnerabletoborealforestfiresthat willinevitablyescalateinsizeandseverityinthecomingdecadesasthe North heats up and lightning strikes increase. Few people in southern Canada and the northeastern areas of the United States realize it, but partofthesuffocatingsmogtheysufferedthroughinthesummerof2004 containedfalloutfrommassivefiresburninginAlaskaandtheYukon.All told,5percentofAlaska,anareaequivalenttothestatesofMassachusetts andNewHampshire,and4percentoftheYukonburnedthatyear.5 The future is not necessarily all filled with doom and gloom. Moist Arctic air could also bring relief to some drought-stricken areas. And someArcticanimalssuchasthebarrengroundgrizzlywillprobably dowellinaworldinwhichitdoesnothavetohibernateforsolong.
4. Cutlinesarestraight,narrowbandsthroughtheforestclearedoftrees,usuallyforthe purposesofpowerlinesorseismicexplorationforoilorgas. 5. GabriellePfisterandateamfromtheNationalCenterforAtmosphericResearchinBoulder, Colorado,estimatedthatthefiresgenerated66billiontonnesofcarbonmonoxide,roughly theequivalenttoallthatproducedbyhumansonthecontinentalUnitedStatesinthattime.

INTRODUCTION

Environmentalists would be horrified by the prospect, but a seasonallyice-freeArcticalsoholdsouttheveryrealpossibilitythatafortune in so far unexploited resources will soon find a way to market. The Northwest Passage, which has been too dangerous for ships to transporttheseresources,couldbeseasonallyice-freesometimewithinthe  nextdecade. The development of the Arctics vast oil, gas and mineral reserves wouldundoubtedlybeaboontoaworldeconomystarvedfornew,politicallystablesourcesoffossilfuelsandmetals.AwarmerArctic,however, alsoopensthecontinentsbackdoortodrugsmugglers,illegalaliens,terroristsandenergy-starvedcountriesindesperateneedofnewsourcesof fossilfuels.CommercialshippingintheArcticalsoraisesthepotentialfor anenvironmentaldisasterthatcouldmakethe Exxon Valdez,thebiggest man-madeenvironmentaldisasterinNorthAmericanhistory,looklikea minoroilspill. Mark Serreze cautions optimists who think theres plenty of time for humans to adjust or capitalize on the changes taking place. So far, he notes, the climate models that he and others at the National Snow and Ice Data Center at the University of Colorado, Boulder, have put together have not been wrong, but they have seriously underestimated how quickly the changes that have happened already would occur.The 3,860-square-mile (10,000 sq. km) annual ice-cover losses that he and other climatologists used to talk about have turned into 30,888 square miles(80,000sq.km)ormore. Itsnotwhatweknow,itswhatwedontknow,hesaid.Thepaleoclimaterecordtellsusthatthesystemcanchangevery,veryquickly,on theorderofjusttenyears.Isuspectthattherearesurprisesaheadthatwe wontbereadyfor. TherecenthistoryoftheArcticisfilledwiththesesurprises.Greenland waswarmenoughforEriktheRedtoestablishacolonyontheislandin AD985.Fornearlyfivehundredyears,theVikingsettlersfarmed,fished andharvestedbirdsandmarinemammals.Thentheso-calledLittleIce Agethrusttheislandintoadeepfreeze.Inlessthanagenerationstime, theGreenlandcolonycollapsedanddisappeared.

INTRODUCTION

Archeological evidence suggests that the Inuit in Canada suffered a similarordeal.ButunliketheVikingsofGreenland,theInuitwerenomadic.ArcheologicalsitessuchastheoneBryonGordonexcavatedon Nadlok,anislandontheBurnsideRiverintheCanadianArctic,show thatsomeInuitmovedfarinlandduringtheLittleIceAge,successfully shiftingtheirhuntingstrategiesawayfrompolarbears,arcticchar,whales andsealstocaribou,laketroutandmuskoxen.Someofthemusedcaribou antlers and hides to frame summer and fall dwellings that would havetraditionallybeensupportedbywhaleboneordriftwood.Theyeven tradedwiththeirmortalenemytheDeneinordertosurvive.When the Little Ice Age ended, they returned to the coast to continue their formerwayoflife. Thescaleofsomeofthesefeast-and-famineepisodesistrulybreathtaking.OnasinglehilltopatthenorthendofBanksIslandintheHigh Arctic,therearetheremainsof581muskoxskulls,29foodcachesand 17 tent rings that suggested there were once thousands of muskoxen andmanypeoplelivingontheisland.ButbythetimetheLittleIceAge endedsometimearound1850,theanimalswerevirtuallyallgoneandso weremostoftheInuit.Aliveanimalwasntspotteduntil1952,whentwo Canadian scientists thought they saw a single bull during their threemonth-longsurveyoftheisland.Nowthattheheathasreturnedtothe Arcticinabigway,muskoxenareonceagainthriving.Asmanyas64,000 animalsnowliveontheisland.6 Like muskoxen, most Arctic animals have evolved in a way that allowsthemtoadapttotheseclimatecycles.Thesituationismuchdifferent now.Theclimateismovingtowardunidirectionalchangeinsteadofthe cycle that led to feast and famine and boom and bust. And as Serreze pointsout,itismovingveryfast.Theecosystemthatsupportspolarbears, narwhal,hoodedsealsandotherArcticanimalsthatrelyonseaiceison thevergeofcollapse.Andthereisnoweveryreasontobelievethathabitat losswillbelong-termifnotpermanent.
6. Analternativetheorysuggeststhepresenceofanabandonedship,theInvestigator,which hadbeenusedtosearchforthelostFranklinexpedition(185053),attractedsomanyInuit tothenorthendofBanksIslandthattheyeventuallydepletedthemuskoxenpopulation.

INTRODUCTION

Up until the summer of 2007, there were still some scientists who were skepticalthattheclimatesystemthatkeepstheArcticOceancoldand theicefrozenformuchoftheyearcouldunravelsoquickly.Butin2007, the ice retreated so far beyond all expectations that most experts were shocked,ifnotstunned,bywhattheysawinthesatelliteimagery.Across theArcticasawhole,themeltdownwaswhereclimatologistsexpectedit wouldbein2030.Whatreallymadethebigmeltof2007aneye-popping experiencewastheabsenceoficeinareaswhereitalmostnevermelts.The so-calledmortuaryofoldicethatnormallychokesMClintockChannel intheHighArcticwasalmostallgone.Whatsmore,ViscountMelville Sound,thebirthplaceofagreatdealofnewArcticice,wasdowntohalf itsnormalsummercover.Theiceisnolongergrowingorgettingold, noted John Falkingham, chief forecaster for the Canadian Ice Service. Tenyearsfromnow,hesaidthatfall,wemaylookbackon2007and saythatwastheyearwepassedthetippingpoint.

ShortlybeforeIsetoffinthespringof2006onaseriesofelevenjourneys totheArctic,Italkedwithseveralscientiststogetasenseoftheunfolding situation.Noneofthemwerehedgingtheirbetsaboutwhatwasinstore forthefuture.JohnSmol,the2004winnerofCanadastopscienceaward, theGerhardHerzbergGoldMedal,wasunequivocalabouttheperilsthat climatechangeposedforboththepolarworldandforpeopledownsouth. Weshouldbepayingattention,butwerenot,Smoltoldme.Maybe its because there are so few voters up there. Politicians have a difficult timeappreciatingthathalfofCanadasrealestateisArctic,andthattwothirdsofitscoastlineisintheArctic.Ononelevelwehavearesponsibility tobestewardsofthisbigpieceofrealestate.Butevenforselfishreasons, we should be concerned because the changes taking place up there are eventuallygoingtocatchupwithusdownhere. MarkSerrezewassimilarlycautionaryinhisforecastforthefuture. Therestoftheworldwillbeinforafewsurprises,hepredicted.What happensintheArcticmatterstotherestoftheworld.Ifweignorewhats goingon,itsgoingtobiteusdownhere,anditsgoingtobiteushard.

chapte r o ne

nanuq: in The TrackS oF The greaT wanderer

Southern Beaufort Sea

He is almost an Inuk, the Eskimos say, discussing the ways of the polar bear. He is the nearest to men.
 AstoldtoRogerBuliard,anOblatemissionarywho livedamongtheInuitforfifteenyearsinthe1930s and1940s

IamstandingaloneontheArcticseaicewatchingthehelicopteras itfliesofftowardalargebodyofopenwater.Itislateintheeveningin April,andthebrilliantspringsunshinethatwassoblindingearlierinthe dayhasnowfadedintoahoney-coloredglowofyellowandorange. Alongsidethisbigholeintheice60miles(100km)northofthecoast, Iseetheghostlysilhouetteofapolarbearbeingpursuedbythehelicopter. With remarkable speed, the animal lopes through the frozen landscape, appearingandthendisappearing,playingagameofhide-and-seekamong thejaggedblocksoficepushedupbytherisingandfallingtides. Mesmerizedbythisenormousanimalweavingitswaythroughthispolardesert,Iamunaffectedbytherazor-sharpwindsandthe-4Fahrenheit

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(-20C) cold that had numbed my face and hands earlier in the day. The unfolding scene has me so rapt that I begin to understand those Inuit storiesofflyingpolarbearsimbuedwithsupernaturalpowers. The bear, in all likelihood, does not know Im here. But when it suddenly stops and turns in my direction, it is no longer so ghost-like. Emerging from the ice-crystallized haze suspended alongside the open water,itisnowpowerful,dangerousand,exceptforthehelicopterhoveringabove,undisputed.I,ontheotherhand,amnowcold,vulnerable, thoroughly unnerved and wondering what I am doing standing there aloneonthefrozenseawiththeriflestillsittingunpackedatthebottom ofapileofsurvivalgear.

Ishouldnthavebeenthereatall.AfewdaysearlierIhadgottenacall fromIanStirling,theCanadianWildlifeServicescientistinpursuitof thebearthatevening.Hewassoundingveryapologeticandwearyonthe otherendofasatellitephone.Twoweeksintohissurveyofthesouthern BeaufortSeapolarbearpopulationsharedbyCanadaandAlaska,things werenotgoingwell. Im hunkered down on Herschel Island just north of the Yukon coast.Hisvoicequaveredasitbrokeupduringthetransmission.Weve hadanextraordinaryamountoffogandwhiteoutconditionsthathave preventedusfromflyingmostdays.Theresalotofopenwaterinthearea andwerewaybehindschedule. Anuncomfortablepausefollowed. Imstartingtothinkthatyoucominguptojoinusmaynotbesuch agoodidea.Howmuchhaveyoubeencountingonthistrip? Iwasntquitesurewhattosay.Thiswassupposedtobethefirstof elevenArctictripsIhadplannedonforthenexteighteenmonthsand I was counting on it a great deal. Missing a chance to go out into the fieldwiththeworldsleadingpolarbearscientistwouldntnecessarilybe adisaster,butneitherwoulditbeagoodwaytostartaprojectonhow climatechangeisaffectingtheArctic.AlreadyanArcticicon,polarbears havebecometheposteranimalintheclimatechangedebate.Ifanything

NANUQ: IN THE TRACKS OF THE GREAT WANDERER

13

about the meltdown of the Arctic mattered to the rest of the planet, it was thefateofthisanimal. WhileIscrambledtocollectmythoughts,Stirlingbegantoreconsider.Icouldsenseitinthewayhewastalkingandgoingoverhisschedule. StammeringliketheactorJimmyStewart,Stirlingtendstothinkoutloud andaskquestionsheeventuallyanswersinaroundaboutway.Oneminute intohisramble,hehadmyhopesup.Thenext,hedashedthem.Finally,he relented,allowingmetowinmycasewithouthavingsaidaword. Wellbeflyingeverychancewegetinthenextfewdayswhenwe moveoutofhereandiftheweathercooperates,soinalllikelihoodthere wontbeanyonetopickyouupwhenyougettoTuktoyaktuk,hesaid. Youllhavetomakeyourwayintotownandgetsomeonetodirectyou tothehousewellberenting.JusttellthemthatitstheGrubenhouse. Theyllknowwhereitis.Thereshouldbeakeyoutsidethedoor.Youcan usethattogetyourselfin.

TuktoyaktukisasmallvillageofaboutninehundredInuvialuitofAlaskan andwesternArcticoriginwhomigratedtothisareaintheearlytwentieth century to trade with American whalers based at Herschel Island. Althoughitisremote,locatedjustbeyondthefarendofthedelta,Tuk,as localsknowit,isnotasimpossibletogettoassomeArcticcommunities. JetservicefromthesouthgoestothelargertownofInuvikdaily.From there,asmallplanetakesahandfulofpassengers93miles(150km)north everydayoftheweekiftheweatherpermits. The day I arrived in Inuvik, the plane toTuk was running several hourslatethankstoabankoficyfogshroudingthecoast.Soratherthan bidemytimeinanemptyterminalbuilding,Idecidedtotrytohitchthe 6-mile(10km)rideintotowntogetwhatIsuspectedmightbemylast hotmealforafewdays. InuvikisthelaststopontheDempsterHighway,theonlyroadin Canada that connects the Arctic to the south year-round, save for two or three weeks in spring and fall when breakup and freezing on the MackenzieRiverpreventstheferryfromcrossing.Unlikemostnorthern

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communities, Inuvik doesnt have a long or culturally significant history. Thetownroseupfromthewildernessflatsalongtheeastchannelofthe Mackenzie Delta in the late 1950s when it appeared that erosion and flooding would eventually cause nearby Aklavik to slide into the delta. (TothedelightofthosewhodeclinedtobetransplantedbytheCanadian government,itneverdid.) Compared to Juneau and Anchorage in Alaska or Pond Inlet and PangnirtunginArcticCanada,Inuvikmaynotbemuchtolookat.There arenotoweringsnowcappedmountainpeaks,giantglaciersorundulating alpinelandscapeshoveringoverthetownsite.Thespruceinthesurroundingforestsaresmallandskinny,andthemosquitoescanbeferociousona hotsummerday.Buttherearecrisp,cleardaysinwinterandspringwhen theRichardsonMountainsheaveintoviewandtakethebreathaway. Thetownalsohasgoodhotels,twoorthreehalf-decentrestaurants andafirst-raterecreationcenter.Whatmakesittrulyspecialisthemixof peoplewhohavesettledthere.Amongitsthirty-fivehundredresidents, there are Inuvialuit, Gwichin, Mtis and non-Aboriginal peoples. The CatholicpriestisfromNigeria,mostofthecabdriversarepartofasmall MuslimcommunityintentonbuildingamosqueandthemedicaldirectorofthehospitalisfromSouthAfrica.Insummer,youcanfindmany ofthemcommuningatthegiantgreenhousethetownconstructedoutof theoldarena.Itwasbuiltfromtheprofitsaformerpriestmadeafterhe securedthedistributionrightstoCoca-Colaintheregion. WhenIfinallyarrivedinInuvik,Ifoundthebookstoreclosed,oneof thehotelsboardedupandFatherMatthewIhuoma,theNigerian-born Catholicpriest,awayonchurchbusiness.Atthegreenhouse,thedoors werelocked.Feelingalittlesorryformyself,Istoodaloneonthesnowcoveredstreets.Thankfully,myluckchangedwhenIspottedFrankPokiak, thechairoftheInuvialuitGameCouncil,walkingdowntheroad. Frank,anInuvialuitmaninhislatefifties,isthekindofpersonyou neverforgetafteryoufirstmeethim.Builtlikeafootballlineman,hehas the bull-legged gait of a grizzly bear marching purposefully across the tundra.Notthekindofguyyoudwanttorile.Imsurehedidntrecognize mefromthetwoorthreetimeswehadmetinthepastbutthatdidntstop

NANUQ: IN THE TRACKS OF THE GREAT WANDERER

15

him from inviting me for a quick cup of coffee at a nearby hotel restaurant whenIinquiredaboutthepossibilityofvisitinghisbelugawhalehunting campthatsummer. Wantsome?Franksaidasheliftedabigplasticice-creampailonto thetable. Whathaveyougotthere?Iasked. Belugamuktukinwhaleoil,hesaidasheopenedthelidtogiveme apeek.IbroughtitwithmefromTuksoIcouldsnackonitduringour GameCouncilmeetingshereinInuvik. Swimminginthegoldenliquidwereseveralchunksofchewybeluga whaleblubber.Bythefishysmellofit,Ididntneedtogetanyclosertosee ifIwantedany.Thisbatchwasalittletoofermentedformytastes.Bythe waythewaitresshomedinonme,thenFrankandthenmeagain,Icould seethatshefoundFrankssnacksequallyunappealing. Justcoffee,Franksaidkindly.Andmaybeapapertoweltocleanup thissmallspill. Like his three brothers, Boogy, Charles and James, Frank doesnt quitefitthestereotypicalimageofanInuvialuitorInuitelder.Heand hiswife,Nellie,havetheirownInternetsiteonBebo,asocialmedianetwork that allows friends to share their lives and explore entertainment opportunities.There,youllfindthatFrankisagrandfatherofthreeand fatheroffive.Heenjoyshuntingandfishingandhockey.Polarbearsdont scarehim,butmicedo.Hisfavoritemovieis Legends of the Fallandhis favoritebandistheLostBayouRamblers.Hisgrandkids,hetellsme,are hishobby. Frank and his brothers are well known to scientists such as Ian Stirling.Fortwenty-fiveyears,theyveassistedinanumberofwildliferesearchprojectsinthewesternArctic.BothJamesandBoogyworkedwith grizzly bear biologist Peter Clarkson, as did their brother in-law Billy Jacobson. For the past nine years, Frank has been collecting blood and tissuesamplesfrombelugawhalesheharvestsforFisheriesandOceans scientistLoisHarwood,oneofStirlingsformerstudents. Despitehowsavvyheisaboutscience,Frankisfirstandforemosta hunter.Beingahunter,heworriesaboutwhatwillhappentothepolar

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bears and beluga whales as the Arctic sea ice continues to melt. Hes concerned that warming temperatures may be affecting the movement ofcaribouandotherlandmammals.ButlikemanyInuvialuit,Inuitand Inupiat hunters, hes reluctant to buy into the more alarming climate changescenariosthatsomescientistshavebeenforecastingfortheArctic world. Thefactisourhistoryisallaboutadjustingtonewcircumstances, he said.Sure, its disturbing to see birds and insects that you have no namefor.Andnobodythinksitsgoodthattheiceismeltingearlierthan ever.Butwhatcanwedoaboutit?Wehavetofindawayofadjusting. FewpeopleinthewesternArcticwieldasmuchinfluenceasFrank. HechairstheInuvialuitGameCouncilthatassignscommunityhunting areas and advises wildlife management boards and the federal and territorialgovernmentsonwildlifeconservationissuesandresearchprojects. Scientistswhodontimpressmembersofthecouncilalmostalwaysfailto getthepermitstheyneedtoconductresearchinthisregion. This system of vetting has been a nightmare for some scientists workingintheArcticinrecentyears.Afterspendingweeks,sometimes months,securingscarceresourcesforaresearchproject,morethanone scientist has found themselves unable to convince the Game Council, orothersimilaradvisorybodiesintheArctic,oftheworthinessoftheir project.Sometimes,itsalegitimateconcernaboutimmobilizinganimals withtranquilizersifthepersondoesntseemqualifiedorsufficientlyexperienced.Inothercases,theoppositionarisesoutofconcerntheresearch willleadtoabanorreductiononhuntingpolarbears,beluga,PearycaribouandotherArcticanimals.

Noanimalmorethanthepolarbearisalightningrodforthiskindof skeptical scrutiny. Not only does the polar bear provide the Inuit with foodandclothingitputsmoneyinthepocketsofmanyInuitguides. AmericanandEuropeansportshunterswillpayasmuchas$35,000for aguidedpolarbearhunt.Soanyresearchthatwarnsofdeclinesinpolar bearpopulationsisoftenseenasanattackontheInuitwayoflife.

NANUQ: IN THE TRACKS OF THE GREAT WANDERER

17

Ironically, that traditional way of life very much parallels the polar bears they harvest. Like the polar bear, an Inuit hunter has to be creativeindevelopingharvestingstrategiestotakeadvantageofthedifferent situationsandhabitatsheencountersduringayear.Healsohastoberesourcefulnotonlybecausesealsandothermarinemammalsarerelatively scarceovertheArcticrange,butbecausetheyaresogoodatescaping.To havesurvivedinthispolarworld,theInuithadtobenomadicandforever investigative,justliketheanimaltheyhunted.ThatswhytheGreenland Inuitcallthepolarbearpisugtooq,thegreatwanderer. Giventheirrelationshipwiththepolarbear,itisnotdifficulttounderstandwhytheanimalissuchanimportantcharacterinInuitfolklore. Oneofthemorepopulartalestellsofaten-leggedbearthatwasableto dupehuntersintomistakingitsabnormalanatomyforagroupofhumans walking in the distance. One after another, the bravest of hunters who wentouttoinvestigatethestrangesightdisappeared.Intheend,anelder, stillwisebutlittlerespected,trackeddowntheten-leggedanimaltoits hidingplaceandtrickeditintoanicepassagethathadnoexit.Unableto finditswayout,thebearretreatedtotheopening,wheretheoldmanwas waitingwithaspear.Thekillingoftheanimalrestoredthemansreputationamonghispeople. Althoughstoriessuchasthisonereflectrespectforthepowerand intelligenceofthepolarbear,theyalsoconveythenotionthatthekilling ofapolarbearisasymbolofamanshuntingprowess.Thisisprovingto beincreasinglyproblematicinaworldwhereanorphancubsuchasKnut, thebearthatsavedtheflaggingfortunesofaGermanzoo,becameaninternationalcelebrityovernight.SouthernersmaybesympathetictoInuit effortstopreservetheirculture,butastheiroppositiontotrappingand sealingshowed,animalwelfaretendstowintheirhearts. Theworldsloveaffairwiththepolarbearisarelativelyrecentphenomenon.Inthelatenineteenthcentury,EuropeanandAmericanwhalers were ruthless in their indiscriminate killing of the animals. One whalingcaptainboastedthatheshotthirty-fivepolarbearsintheAmundsen GulfofthesouthernBeaufortSea,presumablyforlackofanythingbettertodo.Bymodernstandards,thecallousnessofmanyofthesekillsis

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incomprehensible. An anonymous surgeon aboard the Hercules in 1831 describedhow,forsport,heandotherschaseddownafemaleandhertwo cubsintheopenwater: Ifiredattheoldonebutmissed.Theyallswamclosetogether; the mother appeared to caress her cubs with her nose. When weapproachedwithin30yardsofthem,themotherturnedand chargedopen-mouthed.Candy,ourharpooner,pushedthelance intoherneck.Shetookthelanceinherteethanddivedandcame uproaringamongouroars...(Finally)Milfordfinishedheroff. Shedroppedherheadintothewater,herlastlookbeingdirected toward the cubs who were blowing out and swimming to sea. Weshotoneofthecubswithabullet.Theotherkeptswimming arounditsbrother.Milfordthrewanooseovertheothershead anddrewhimuptotheboatsbow,wherehehungroaringand bitingtheboatsstem.Hewasstrangledbeforereachingtheship. ThomasMacklin,asurgeonaboardanotherwhalingvessel,waseven morecold-bloodedwhenhisshipencounteredabearstandingonthesea iceastheysailedtowardit: Hemusthavebeenhungry,poorfellow,forinsteadoftryingto runaway,hestoodhisground,intending,nodoubt,tomakea mealofthestrangeblackbird(theship)withhugewhitewings; buttheflameshotforthfromherheadandhewasbroughttohis kneesinsupplicationformercy.Buthislifesbloodwasnecessarytoexpiatethecrimeofarroganceandintrepidityindaring to approach so mighty a bird; again flame shot forth and the messengerofdeathdemandedofhimhislife.Suchisthepunishmentwhichawaitspridefularrogance. IntheshorttimetheypliedthewatersoftheArctic,thewhalersmay havebeenjustaseffectiveindepletingthepolarbearpopulationinthe Arcticastheywereindrivingbowhead,belugaandnarwhalwhalestothe

NANUQ: IN THE TRACKS OF THE GREAT WANDERER

19

point of extinction. No one knows for sure. Up until 1935, there were no lawstoprotectpolarbearsinNorthAmericanoranymeansofmonitoringtheirnumbers.CanadasdecisiontolimitthehuntfromMaythrough Octoberthatyearwasoneofthefirstattemptsatconservation.Inspite ofthisandothersimilarmeasurestakenbytheUnitedStates,Norway, GreenlandandtheU.S.S.R.intheensuingyears,thenumberscontinued todwindleintothe1960s. Thedeclineofpolarbearsinthetwentiethcenturyislinked,inlarge part,totechnology.Firsttherifleandthenthesnowmobileinthe1960s fundamentallychangedtherelationshipbetweentheInukandthepolar bear,reducingtheclassicconfrontationbetweenmanandbeasttoanarcadeshootinggame.In1948,only148polarbearswerekilledinCanada. By1960,thatnumberroseto509.By1967,whenthesnowmobileovertookthedogsledastheprimarymeansofArctictransportation,morethan 700bearswerekilled.Thetrend,whichwasworldwide,wasexacerbated whensportshuntersandtrapperssteppedintothegamewithaircraftand presetgunstohelpthemtaketheirprey. Bythemiddleofthe1960s,scientistssuchasDickHarington,the paleontologistwho,remarkably,startedoffaspolarbearscientistwiththe CanadianWildlifeService,estimatedtheremightbetenthousandorso bearsleftintheworldalittlelessthanhalfofwhatthereistoday.The alarmledtothefirstcircumpolarmeetinginFairbanks,Alaska,in1965,at whicharesolutionwaspassedprotectingfemalesandcubs.Afurtherstep, taken in 1968, brought the same nationsthe United States, Canada, Denmark, Norway and the Soviet Uniontogether under the auspices oftheInternationalUnionfortheConservationofNatureforthefirstof acontinuingseriesofmeetingsthattookplaceeverythreetofiveyears. Atthosemeetings,thecircumpolarnationsagreedtopooltheirresources andresearcheffortstoensureafutureforthespecies.

IanStirlingwasamongthefirstscientiststofocusonthepolarbearpopulationinthesouthernBeaufortSeainameaningfulway.Althoughheis toomodesttotakecredit,hisresearchhelpedconvinceInuvialuitleaders

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and government managers of the need to stop hunting female bears that wereaccompaniedbycubs.Hisresearchalsoemphasizedtheimportance ofnothuntinginthefall,whenpregnantfemalesaresearchingfordens. Thenumberofbearseachcommunityisallowedtoharvesteachyearrely heavilyonthepopulationestimatesthatheandhiscolleaguesmadefrom theirsurveys. One of Stirlings biggest contributions arose from the long-term tracking of the animals he and his team tagged and captured in the CanadianBeaufortSea.Foratime,itwasthoughtthatthebearslivingon theAlaskanandCanadiansidesoftheinternationalborderweredistinct. Sofordecades,boththeCanadianandU.S.governmentsmanagedthe polarbearsofthesouthernBeaufortSeaintheirownway. But by the mid-1980s, Stirling and Steve Amstrup from the U.S. GeologicalSurveyrecognizedthepotentialpitfallsofthisdualformof management.AftercrunchingtheirnumbersfromyearsofmarkandcaptureeffortsandfromtheradiocollartrackingthatAmstrupsuccessfully usedtofollowthemovementsofanimalsintheregion,theydiscovered thatthetwopopulationswerereallyone.Manyoftheestimated1,800to 2,000animalsintheregionweremovingbackandforthacrosstheborder on a regular basis. In one notable example that Amstrup documented yearslater,afemalepolarbearfromnorthernAlaskawalkedwestwardfor fourmonthsbeforereachingnorthernGreenland.Totheamazementof many,shecamewithin2degreesoftheNorthPole. ThemovementofpolarbearsbetweenCanadaandtheUnitedStates wasparticularlyworrisomeforboththeInuvialuitandtheInupiatandfor government managers on both sides of the border because conservation measuresatthistimeweresomewhatarchaic.WhileInuvialuithunterswere boundbyalegallyenforcedquotasystemthatdictatedhowmanyanimals eachcommunitycouldharvest,forexample,thevagariesoftheU.S.Marine MammalProtectionActmadeitpossiblefortheInupiatinAlaskatohunt asmanyanimalsastheywantedsolongasitwasforsubsistencepurposes. AnotheranomalyintheU.S.actallowedthemtoharvestfemalesindens. TherulesweresobizarrethattheU.S.governmentcoulddonothinguntil thepolarbearpopulationwasconsideredtobedepleted.

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21

Fortunately, the potential for overharvesting polar bears in Alaska at thetimewasminimal.ButitwasaseriousconcernforInuvialuitleaders suchasAndyCarpenter,AlexAviuganaandNelsonGreenofCanada.Like theirAlaskanpartners,theydidnotwishtoseethepopulationoverharvested.NordidtheywanttorisklosingthelucrativebusinessthatAmerican sportshuntersbroughttotheCanadianNorth.Inorderforthosehuntersto legallybringbacktheirpolarbearhides,theU.S.governmentinsistedthat thecountryinwhichthepolarbearwasshothadtohavesolidscientific datashowingthatthepopulationwasbeingmanagedinasustainableway. Afterrecognizingtheproblemsonbothsidesoftheborder,representativesfromtheInuvialuitandtheInupiatbegantomeettodecidehow tomanageandconservethesouthernBeaufortpopulationasasingleunit. Afterjusttwoyears,theInuvialuitGameCouncilofCanadaandAlaskas North Slope Borough met in Inuvik in 1988 to finalize a gentlemens agreementtomanagethepopulationjointly. Unfortunately,thedeal,thefirstofitskind,didnotgetofftoagreat start.Notlongaftertheinkwasdry,ayounghunterfromAlaskashota female,leavinghertwocubsorphaned.Tooyoungtobeontheirown,they wereplacedinazoo.Worseyet,thelostanimalsdidnotcountagainstthe quotaofbearsthecommunitywasallowedtoharvest.Nothinglegalcould bedonetopunishthehunter,buttheWildlifeManagementDepartment of the North Slope Borough and its partners on the Canadian side of thebordermadeitclearthatactionslikethiswouldnotbetoleratedin thefuture.SowhenahunterfromInuvikshotandkilledafemaleand her single cub near her den site in 1994, charges were laid.The Inuvik HuntersandTrappersAssociationalsosuspendedhispolarbearhunting privilegesforfiveyears. FrankPokiakisproudofthefactthattheagreementhasworkedso wellsincethen.Butlikemanyhuntersintheregion,heisnotoptimistic aboutwhatthefutureholdsforpolarbearsintheBeaufortSea.Inrecent years,huntersfromTuktoyaktukandotherwesternArcticcommunities havenotharvestedalltheanimalstheyareentitledtotake. Theiceischanging,hetoldme.Itmeltsearlierinthespringand comes later in the fall. Hunters have to go farther and farther away to

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find the bears. Some are giving up. With the high price of gas, its getting too expensive. Its also dangerous because the ice is getting too soft in springtime. WhatworriesPokiakevenmoreisthedaywhenscientistssuchas StirlingandAmstrupwillbringdatathatsuggeststhatwhatfewanimals theyarefindingandharvestingisnotsustainableinadecliningpopulation.HowtheInuvialuitandInupiatrespondtothatscenario,headmits, willbethetoughesttestoftheirco-managementagreement.

TheArcticcoversanenormousamountoflandscape,buthotnewstravels fast. Oftentimes, pilots deliver tantalizing bits of news and gossip long before its shared over the radio, Internet or telephone. On the shorttriptoTuk,thepilotwasbuzzingwithreportsaboutanAmerican hunter who shot a strange-looking animal on the sea ice just west of BanksIsland.Iheardthatitlookedlikeapolarbearandagrizzlybear mixedintoone,thepilottoldme.Thewildlifeofficerwasapparently soconfusedthatheseizedtheanimal.Idismissedthestoryasanother ofthetalltalesyouoftenhearintheArcticfrompeoplewhohavent beentherelong,butitprovedtobetrue.AnAmericanhuntershota bear that turned out to be polar bear/grizzly cross, the first one ever foundinthewild. Thepilotalsotoldmeofagrizzlybeardenningnorthoftheairstrip at Sachs Harbour on Banks Islandhundreds of miles north of where thebrownbearsarenormallyfound.Thisanecdotehadanintriguingring oftruth.Thenumberofsightingsofgrizzlybearsontheseaicehasbeen risingsteadilysincebiologistMitchTaylorspottedoneseveralyearsago inthefarthestreachesoftheHighArcticwherenogrizzlyhadeverbeen seenbefore. TaylorwasflyingoverViscountMelvilleSoundatthetimedoinga routinesurveyofpolarbearswhenhespottedthebloodyremainsofseveralsealpupsontheseaice.Thisinitselfisnotunusual.Typically,apolar bearwillleaveeverythingbutthefatofasealbehind.Abighealthybear willsometimestakeasinglebiteandmoveon.Nearby,however,Taylor

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23

also found the remains of a young polar bear that had evidently been killedatthesametime. Thiswasalsonotabigsurprise.Sometimespolarbearswillengage inviciousbattlesthatleaveoneofthemdeadorbadlyinjured.Somehave alsobeenknowntoengageincannibalism,especiallywhentheyreinbad shapeandstarving.Determinedtofindoutwhathappenedinthiscase, Taylorandthehelicopterpilotfollowedthekillerstracksuntiltheyspottedsomethingdarkmovinginthedistance.Thinkingthelightwasplaying tricksonthem,Taylorsignaledthepilottoflyinforacloserlook.Instead ofrunningawayasmostpolarbearsdowhentheyhearthesoundofan engine,thisanimalabruptlyturnedandrandefiantlytowardtheaircraft. ThatswhenTaylorrealizeditwasagrizzlybear. Sincethen,moreandmoregrizzlybearshavebeenspottedonBanks andVictoriaislandsandasfarnorthasMelvilleIslandnorthofViscount MelvilleSound.WhattheanimalsaredoingintheKingdomofNanuk, theGreatWanderer,nooneknowsforsure.Butlookingoutatthewhite expanseoftheBeaufortSeaaswebegandescendingintoTuk,Iwondered whethertheyounggrizzlybearTaylorhadcaughtthatdaywasthesame onedenningonBanksIsland.

Tuktoyaktuk is a derivative of tuktu, the Inuvialuit word for caribou. Legendhasitthatanoldwomanwassittingonthecoastonedaywhen shespottedagroupofcaribouwadingacrossthetidalpoolsinfrontof her.Usinghershamanisticpowers,shepetrifiedtheanimalssothatshe couldgazeonthisbountifulsiteforever.TodaysomepeopleinTukinsist thatinsummer,youcanseetheshapesoftheanimalsinthereefsthatrise upfromthetownsnarrowharborduringlowtide. Tuktoyaktukstiestoitsculturalpastarefracturedones.Morethan any other community in the Arctic, the people there have been hardened and made savvy by their long and often difficult association with non-Aboriginalsfromthesouth.First,itwasthewhalerswhointroduced alcoholanddiseasesthattheInuvialuitwerenotimmuneto.Thenitwas theoilandgasworkerswhoinvadedthecommunityinthe1980swith

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more alcohol, drugs and empty promises of prosperity. Most people are stillwaitingforthegoodtimestocome. Notthatthewaithasbeenwithoutdrama.Severalyearsago,Molson, thebeergiant,stagedabeachpartyinTukontheLaborDayweekend. The contest for tickets brought hundreds of winners from all over the continent to hear several rock bands, including Hole, Metallica and Moist.PeopleintownstilltalkaboutgrungedivaCourtneyLovestaggering off the plane barely able to sign autographs for contest winners andthenstumblingonstagethenextnightmakingfunofTuktoyaktuks name by replacing the first and last syllables so that it rhymed with  aprofanity. Well aware of all that has transpired inTuk over the years, I was still expecting to observe something traditional on the weekend I arrived.ItwastheBelugaJamboree,whenpeopleinthecommunitycome togethertocelebratetheirwhalinghistory.ButwhenIstrolleddowntowardtheharborthatevening,thereweremoreiPodsandsuper-charged snowmobiles than drums and harpoons. I felt a little like Danish ethnologistKnudRasmussen,who,findinganInuittentcampinthemost remotecornerofthebarrenlandsin1922,wasdisappointedtodiscover its inhabitants listening to the sound of Carusos mighty voice ringing outfromagramophone.Hewas,henotedatthetime,ahundredyears  toolate.

BrutalistheonlywayIcandescribethefieldseasonsofar,IanStirling toldmewhenwefinallymetthatnight.Werenotfindingnearlyasmany bearsaswewouldhaveexpected.Andtheweatherhasntbeencooperatingeither.Inthesixhoursweflewtoday,wecaughtjusttwobears.Dennis [Andriashek,Stirlingslongtimewildlifetechnician]hasnthadmuchluck either.HesbeensittinginthefogfordaysatSachsHarbourwaitingfor theweathertoclear.Whenitfinallydidyesterday,theRoyalCanadian MountedPolice(RCMP)putthepilotandthehelicopteronholdjustin casetheyneededittofindahunterwhohadgonemissing.Turnsoutthat thehunterwasathomesleepinginbed.

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This, he said wearily, is rapidly turning into one of the worst years wevehad. Wewereinahousethatwastypicalofthesmallbungalowsfound acrosstheArctic.Fourofussharedtherentedplace:me,Stirling,Evan RichardsonandAndrewDerocher,theCanadianscientistwhochairsthe polarbearspecialistgroupfortheInternationalUnionforConservation ofNature(IUCN).Themainroomofthehousewaslongandnarrowand divided into kitchen and living room. A hallway led to three tiny bedroomsandabathroomthatwasservicedwithtrucked-inwaterstoredin abigtank.TheonlythingthatdistinguisheditfromanyotherplaceIhad beentoin the North was the enormouspairof head-banging speakers blockingtheviewthroughthefrontpicturewindow.Dwarfedbythese behemoths,Stirlingwassittingonanoversizedcouch.Whenhesawme staringatthespeakers,heassuredmethattheybelongedtotheowner, nothim. SinceithadbeensometimesinceIhadlastseenStirling,Ithought hemighthaveaged.Butapartfromafewmoregrayhairsinhisbeardand athinninghairlinethatmadehimlookmoreprofessorialthanhealready did,heseemedtobeasfitaseverandfartooyoungtobetheemeritus scientisthewasabouttocome. Few individuals in the field of Arctic science cast a longer shadow than Stirling, whose career, ironically, got its start at the other end of the polar world forty years ago because jobs in the Arctic were scarce. Since then, his research on polar bears, seals, walrus and other marine mammalshasearnedhimthekindofinternationalrespectthatveryfew environmentalscientistscommand.Inadditiontothenearlytwohundred peer-reviewedpapershespublishedindozensofscientificjournals,hes writtenthreepopularbooks.WhentheU.S.governmentwasconsidering puttingthepolarbearonthethreatenedlist,Stirlingwasaskedtobethe leadauthorofoneofthesevenreportscommissionedandco-authorof twoothersthateventuallywenttotheU.S.SecretaryoftheInterior,Dirk Kempthorne,forconsideration. Andrew Derocher refers to his mentor as Mr. Polar Bear. What setsStirlingapartfromtherestofthescientificcrowd,hetoldmethat

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evening, is that he is much more than just a number-cruncher trying to figurehowmanybearscanbeharvestedinagivenyear.Ian,hesaid,is alwayslookingatthebiggerpictureintheecosystemtoseehowbears, sealsandothermarinemammalsfitin. AsmuchasStirlingenjoyshisjob,therearemanydownsidestoflying incold,windyorfoggyweather.Overtheyears,Stirlingscrewhasbeen involvedintwohelicoptercrashes,twofixed-wingcrashes,twohelicopterenginefailuresandmorenarrowescapesthanhedcaretotalkabout. Fortunately,nooneinhisgrouphasbeenhurt.ButMalcolmRamsay,a formerstudentwhowentontodistinguishhimselfinthefieldofpolar bearscience,diedinahelicoptercrashinLancasterSoundwhilecoming homefromhisownprojectonespring. StirlingalsohadaclosecallwhenhewastestinganantidoteRamsay thought might help tranquilized bears recover more quickly from the drugscientistsonceusedtoimmobilizethem.Withthetwoofthemat thetimewasCanadianWildlifeServiceveterinarianEricBroughtonand veteranhelicopterpilotSteveMiller.Notknowinghowthetranquilized beartheycapturedwouldrespondtotheantidote,StirlingwatchedcautiouslyfromadistanceafterBroughtoninjectedasmallamountofthe drugintoaveinbeneaththeanimalstongue.Afterseveralminutes,they proddedthebeartoseeifitwasrecovering.Therewasnoresponse. Stirlingthenkneltdownandpulledonthebearstongue,ashewould typicallydotoseehowdeeplytranquilizedtheanimalmightbe.Again, therewasnoresponse.Afewminuteslater,hetriedagain,assumingthat nothingwouldhappen.Butthistimehemadethemistakeofreaching intothemouthfromthefrontinsteadoftheside,ashealwaysdoesto avoid thepossibilityof the bearssharpfront teeth clamping down on him.Justashegrabbedthetongue,thejawssnappedtight,piercingthe sidesofhisthumbandforefingerandjustmissingthebone.Theantidote wasworking.Asthebearseyesbecamemorealertandfocused,Stirling knewhewasinserioustrouble.EricBroughtontriedtoprythebears mouth open but was unsuccessful. Only when he slapped the bear on thenosedidthebearloosenitsgriplongenoughforStirlingtopullhis handout.

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Close calls like this one havent deterred Stirling from trying to do everythingandjustaboutanythingtohelpabearthathashaddifficulty recovering from those early experimental drugs. One notable example ofthisdiligenceoccurredonBanksIslandmorethantwenty-fiveyears agowhenhedartedathinadultfemalebearalittletooheavily.When Stirlingdiscoveredthattheanimalhadstoppedbreathing,hedidwhat somemightconsiderunthinkable.Hestartedapplyingartificialrespiration,pausingtocheckforlightbreathsforanysignofrecovery. Becausethewindwasblowingsohardthatday,Stirlinghadtrouble detecting even the slightest movement in the animals rib cage. So he placedhisearagainstthebearsnoseandcuppedhishandoverthetopto makeabettersealforhisbreathtogothrough. Several minutes after the bear was obviously breathing on its own, Stirlinglookedupandnoticedthathiscolleaguehadbackedupseveral feet,shiftingbackandforthnervouslyfromfoottofoot.Curiousabout thisstrangebehavior,Stirlingwasabouttoaskhimwhatwasupwhenhis friendfinallyblurtedout:Youknow,ifyoukeepdoingthat,yourenot goingtoliveverylong. Fortunatelyforthebearsandthescientists,anewer,saferdrughas comeontothescene.Notonlydoesitimmobilizethebearmorequickly andallowforaspeedierrecovery,itmakesiteasierforscientiststotell whenitissafetoapproachatranquilizedanimal.Inthefinalstagesofthe induction,bearstendtoholdtheirheadsupbeforequietlylyingdown. Afterthirty-sevenyearsofthissortofdrama,Stirlinghascometo acceptthefactthatnotallgoesaccordingtoplanwhenyouretryingto figure out how many animals there are in an extremely remote Arctic region such as the Beaufort. If fog, dangerous ice conditions or stormy weatherdontsetyoubackaweekorso,ashappenedtohimandhiscrew thisspring,thenmechanicaltroublewillalmostcertainlytakethewind out of your sails. Hes also experienced a year like this in the western Arcticwhenbearsseemtobefewandfarbetween. Thewinterof197475wasanespeciallycoldonethatcreatedice conditionsthatweretoounstableforringedsealsthepolarbearsprimaryfoodsourcetosuccessfullybuildbirthinglairs,hetoldmethat

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night. It was a real puzzle at the time and a scary one because initially we couldntfigureoutwhereallthebearshadgone.

It was cold and clear when we finally set off the next morning, but a bankoffogthatloomedlargeonthehorizonhadStirlingwonderingout loudwhetherwewouldbeabletoputinafullday.Aweekwithoutsnow orhardwind,headded,wasalsogoingtomakeitthatmuchharderto  findtracks. Strangeasitmightseem,itismucheasierfindingapolarbearbyfollowingitstracksthanitisscanningthehorizonforanysignofthisanimal thatcan,atoneendoftheextreme,weighasmuchas1,800pounds(800 kg).Thepolarbearspaw,whichisaslongas1foot(30cm)across,isnot onlybigandeasilyspottedat300feet(90m),itofferssignsofwhatthe polarbearisupto.Thetracksofananimalmovinginastraightlinebefore suddenly turning in another direction and then stopping often signals thatabearhaspickedupthescentofseal.Thewidetracksofafatbearin springwilldifferfromthatofaskinnyoneinfall,whenmanyofthebears havegoneforsometimewithoutfood.Andsnowthathaspileduponone sideofafootprintmightmeanthatthetrackisnotallthatfresh. Thebearspawisaremarkablething.Ithelpstheanimaldistribute itsweightwhenwalkingacrossthinice.Andpapillae,thosesoftbumps ontheblackfootpadofabear,keeptheanimalfromslipping,asdothe claws,whichcanbeaslongas2inches(5cm).Althoughthepolarbearis wellequippedforwalkingonslipperyice,itpreferstomovealongpatches ofsnow,oftenstoppingtosniffoutthechubbyringsealpupsstillintheir lairsatthistimeofyear. WeweremorethantwohoursintothesearchwhenStirlingfinally pickeduptracksthatshowedpromise.Butanyhopeofcatchingtheanimalfadedquicklywhenthefootprintsendedabruptlyattheedgeofa largebodyofopenwater. Aleadlikethisisamagnetforbearsbecausethisiswhereyoutend togetalotofsealshaulingout,explainedStirling,sittinginthefront seatofthehelicopter.Sotheresnosurprisethatourguyhasgonefora

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swim. The challenge is figuring out where he resurfaced. With the calm, clearweatherwevebeenhavinglately,itsalmostimpossibletodetermine whichofthesetrackswereseeingontheothersideoftheleadarefresh andwhichbelongtoourbear. In their never-ending search for food, polar bears travel long distancesacrossice,oftenjumpingintoopenwaterandswimmingforseveral hourstogettowheretheywanttogo.RefuelingatBaillieIsland,asmall, uninhabitedriseoflandthatwasoncehometosomefamiliesfromTuk, Stirlingtoldmehowheoncewatchedapolarbearhuntingforseveral daysinRadstockBayintheHighArcticwhenitsuddenlychangeddirection,plungedintothewaterandthendisappeared. ThenextdayIgotaradiomessagefromacolleaguewho,bychance, spottedthesamemarkedanimalalongthenorthcoastofSomersetIsland, a100-kilometer[60mile]swimaway. Thefactthatpolarbearsmovesuchlongdistancesoverextremelyremoteareasmakesitexpensiveanddifficulttoestimatehowmanyanimals thereareinthethirteenregionsofNorthAmericawherethepolarbearis found.Asthingsstandnow,CanadaandtheUnitedStateshaveonlygood long-termdataontwoofthesepopulationstheoneinsouthernBeaufort SeaandtheonethatmakesitslivinginHudsonBay.Whatisknownabout therestisbasedonfragmentedstudiesandeducatedguesswork. Thebigpictureisnotaparticularlypromisingone.Fiveofthethirteenpopulationsappeartobeonthedecline.AtleastonetheBaffinBay populationisthevictimofsevereoverhuntingontheGreenlandside ofthepolarbearsrange.Ofthethreethatareincreasing,theViscount MelvilleandMClintockChannelpopulationsareonthereboundonly because of the Canadian Inuits voluntary decision to severely reduce  theirharvest. Itmaywellbethatthedeterioratingiceconditionsthatcomewith climate change are now beginning to take their toll on bears and seals inthispartoftheworld.Ifthatturnsouttobethecaseasmoreand morescientificdatasuggeststhenthoseintheverysmallminoritywho insistthatclimatechangeisnothreattopolarbearsareplainlywrong.It alsosuggeststhatthereneedstobeafundamentalrethinkingabouthow

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polar bears are hunted and managed and how much greenhouse gas were pumpingintotheatmosphere. Wevedocumenteda22percentdeclineinthewesternHudsonBay populationbetween1987and2004,notedStirling. Theanimalsthatweseetherenowareyoungerandthinnerthanthe typicalbearyoudseetwentyorthirtyyearsago.MartynObbardfromthe MinistryofNaturalResourcesinOntariohasobservedasimilarsituation insouthernHudsonBay.Thereasonisprettysimple.Bearspileonthefat theyneedtomakeitthroughtheyearbycatchingsealsontheice.With theicemeltingtwoorthreeweekssoonerinspring,ashasbeenhappening inwesternandsouthernHudsonBay,theanimalsarespendingmoretime onlandandgettinglessopportunitytoputonthereservestheyneedto successfullyreproduceandtomakeitthroughtheyear.Itsadouble-edged sword.Lesstimefeedingalsomeansmoretimeburningupstoredfat. Inthepoliticallychargedworldofpolarbearscience,Stirlingisreluctanttocategoricallyconcludethatthe15percentdeclinethatheandhis AlaskancolleaguesareobservingintheBeaufortSeaissimilarlylinked toclimatechange.Theresimplyisntasmokinggun.Butaddingupallthe telltalesigns,hepointsouttherecentdrowningofseveralbearsoffthe Alaskacoast,thefactthatbearsintheBeaufortarenotasfatastheyonce were,theapparentincreaseincannibalism,thetrendformorebearson theAlaskasideofthebordertogivebirthonlandratherthanontheice, thewarmerweatherandchangingiceconditionssuggeststhatclimate changecouldnowbehavinganimpactonmarinemammalsinthewesternArcticofCanadaandtheUnitedStates. Stirlingishardlyaloneinwavingtheredflag.Whenheandaselect group of scientists finally finished their reports for the U.S. Geological Survey,theyconcludedthattwo-thirdsoftheworldspolarbears,includingallthoseinAlaskaandmostofCanadaswesternArctic,willbegone by2050.Theonlyonesremaining,theyadded,wouldbethoseinhabiting theHighArcticregionsofCanadaandwesternGreenland. Youseethatdownthere,saidStirling,pointingtoaspotwherea bearhadevidentlyspentagreatdealoftimediggingdownintotheice. Thatswhatwecallscratching.Itsnormalforbearstodigintothesnow.

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But a bear has to be really desperate to spend all that energy scratching throughtheicetryingtogetintoaseallair.Wesawtenexamplesofthat lastyearandthreesofarthisspring.Inmostcases,itwasawasteoftime andenergyforthebear. Nowthatthepolarbearhasbecometheposteranimalintheclimate changedebatearoundtheworld,onemighthaveexpectedthatStirling andhiscolleagueswouldhavenotroublegettingthefundingtoanswer someofthequestionsthatneedtobeaddressedastheicequicklyrecedes intheArcticandasenergyandmineralexplorationescalates.ButStirling sayshestillfeelslikeanorgangrinderwithamonkeyonhisbackbeggingformoney....Asmuchtalkastherehasbeenaboutclimatechange andpolarbears,hetoldme,therehasbeennocorrespondingincrease ingovernmentfundingforpolarbearresearch.TheAmericanswhocomanage the population, he points out, are funding much of what he is nowdoingintheBeaufortSea. The funding situation is especially crucial because climate change is just one of a number of things threatening the future of polar bears. MountingevidencesuggeststhattoxicchemicalssuchasPCBs,PBDEs, DDT, dioxin and dieldrin and heavy metals such as mercury are contaminatingthepolarbearsfoodsupply.Huntingpressureonbearsisalso intensifying,asareconflictsbetweenbearsandhumansinArcticzones thatareundergoingenergydevelopment. None of this has silenced the contrarians who continue to insist thereisnoreasontobeconcernedaboutthefuture.Theclaimssome ofthemsupportedbypetroleuminterestsandbig-gamesporthunters, somebytheInuitthemselvesarecomingfromalldirections.Onthe onehand,thesecriticsinsistthatdipsinpopulationaresymptomaticof natural variabilitynot greenhouse gas emissions. On the other, they arguethatpolarbearswilladapttoalifeonlandeatingberries,salmon caribouandsnowgooseeggs.Thentherearethosewhopointtoarecent study showing the Davis Strait population in the eastern Arctic increasing.TheysaythenumbersprovethatscientistssuchasStirling arewrong. Stirlingbristledatthementionofthis.

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The fact is we [the IUCN polar bear specialist group] have been sayingallalongthattheDavisStraitpopulationwaslikelyontherise, saidStirling.Itsalsopossiblethatotherpopulationsmightincreasein theshorttermastheArcticgetswarmerandpossiblymorebiologically productive in some areas. Its whats going to happen in three or four generationsforty-fiveyearsorlongerthatreallyworriesus. Superficially,polarbearsmayappeartobesecureinsomeplaces.But everythingwevelearnedaboutthemoverthepastthreedecadessuggests theywillnotfarewellatallinaworldwithlittleornoiceforagoodpartof theyear.Polarbearslivealmostentirelyonadietofseals.Tosuggestthat theycansuddenlyswitchandfindenoughfoodeatingberriesorsalmon orhuntingdowncaribou,assomepeoplesay,isfanciful.Weveobserved whatbearsdoonlandduringsummerandfallinwesternHudsonBay whentheicehasmelted.Itsprettyclearthattheyarentdoingmuchbut sleeping,fastingandwaitingfortheicetoform.Thereallyhungryones endupgoingintothetownofChurchilltolookforfood. Stirlingdoubtsthattherangeofthepolarbearwillsignificantlyshift northasthingswarmup. Right now the area north of where we normally find bears is a comparativelysterileenvironment.Itremainstobeseenwhetheritwill becomesignificantlymoreproductiveastheicerecedesandthingswarm up.Myhunchisthattheremaybeasmallrefugiumforalimitednumber ofbearsinthefuture,butnothingtomakeupforthecollapsewellseein southernlatitudesofthesub-ArcticandArcticworld. Stirling understandswhy some Inuitand Inuvialuit hunters have a difficulttimeacceptinghisandhiscolleaguesfindings.Itnotonlymeans thattheywillhavefewerpolarbearstohuntthemselves,butalsofewer bearstogiveuptothelucrativesporthuntingindustry.Healsoaccepts theInuitcontentionthattheyareseeingmorebearsinsomeplacesthan theyhavebefore. Butthoseanecdotalobservationsdonttakeintoaccountthefactthat polarbearsoftenhaveahomerangeofmorethan77,220squaremiles (200,000sq.km)orthatthebearstheyareseeingaretheresultofseaice changesorlarge-scaleshiftsinthedistributionandabundanceofprey.

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Some well-intentioned people have suggested that we start feeding the bears to help them through the ice-free season, said Stirling, pointingoutthatthereisnoeasywayofsavingpolarbears.Butpolar bearsarelargeanimals.Theaveragebearrequiresaboutforty-fivetofifty ringedsealsayeartosurvive.Puttingitcrudely,twentythousandpolar bearswouldrequireninehundredthousandringedsealsortheequivalent. Thatsalotofseal. The bottom line is that hunting quotas need to be conservatively settoreflectnotonlythebearpopulations,butalloftheotherchanges thatareoccurringintheArcticworld.Andiftheworldwantstosavethis iconicspecies,humansaregoingtohavetoreducegreenhousegasesvery quicklyandverysubstantially.

Come early evening, we were still searching in vain for a polar bear to emergeattheendofthetracks.Afoggyhazesoftenedtheblindinglight oftheever-circlingArcticsun.Watchingthemutedshadowsalongthe wind-carvedridgesoficebelow,IwastrickedmorethanonceintothinkingIwasseeingabear.Lookingoutatthissilent,stillandalienworld,I couldnthelpwonderhowapolarbearevenwithitswhitecamouflaging fur,itselongatedheadandbodyanditsshort,curvedclawsandlargefeet designedforefficientwalkingoniceorswimminginwatercouldthrive. Inthehoursweflewlatethatafternoonandintoevening,therewasnta singlelivingthingtobeseen. Andthen,justasitseemedlikewemighthavetogobacktocamp withouthavingcaughtasinglebear,Stirlingpickedupthefreshtracksof ananimal,which,likethebearwefollowedearlier,wereheadingtoward openwater. Wastingnotimeorwords,heturnedtomeandasked,ashehadat thebeginningoftheflight,whetherIwascomfortablebeingdroppedoff ontotheicewhilehetranquilizedtheanimalfromtheair. LikeIsaidbefore,Icantaffordyourweightandallthegearwehave onboardhamperingthepilotsabilitytomaneuverquicklyandsafelyover theanimal.Andremember,dontforgetthegun.Pullitoutofitscaseand

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have it ready. The chances of you needing to use it are remote, but you neverknow. Stirlingmaynotbeabigman,butthereissomethingintimidating aboutamanwhohasspentsomuchofhisadultlifetrackingdownand handling North Americas largest and most fearsome animal. So when thehelicoptersetusdownontheseaicethatevening,Ijumpedoutand loweredmyheadtogetbelowtherotorblade.ThenIcircledaroundfront togettothesmallcargodoor.Methodically,Ipulledoutthesurvivalgear, thegunandabarreloffueltomakethechopperaslightaspossiblefor Stirlingwhilehewasupintheairaimingthetranquilizergunatthebear. Iwasdeterminednottoscrewup. AllwentaccordingtoplanuntilItriedtoremovethefueldrum.To my dismay, it was too tall to slide directly out of the storage chamber. NorcouldIleanitoversidewaysbecausethefuelpumpwasblockingthe way.Stirling,Ifigured,musthavebeeninafurywatchingthebearrunningawaywhileIfumbledabout.Realizinghoweverysecondcounted,I finallyjerkedandtuggedeverywhichwaybeforethedrumsomehowslid outandfellontotheice.Thenwithmybacktothehelicopter,Ipulled myhoodupovermyheadtoavoidtheblastofsnowthatensuedwhen Stirlingandthepilotliftedoff. IwascompletelyoutofbreathwhenIturnedandsawthepolarbear runningtowardme.InapanicIwentforthegunthatIhadforgotten tounpack.OnlywhenIlookedupagaindidIrealizethatthepilotwas simplymaneuveringthetranquilizedbearawayfromtheopenwaterso itwouldntjumpinanddrown.Andthenjustlikethat,thebearrunning toward me lay down, raising its head just once before it dropped back downontheice.Thehighdramathatseemedlikeanhourtometookall oftwominutes. Stirlingwaspattingdowntheanimal,feelingforfatonitsspineand hipbones,whenIarrivedonthescene. Hesasolidtwooutoffive,hesaid,lookingtheanimalover.The only fat reserve he has is on his butt. Its another sign that these animalsarehavingahardtimefindingseals.Normallyatthistimeofyear, wedexpecttoseethree.Questionis,aretherefewersealsoraretheyjust

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harder to get at in these difficult ice conditions. Either way its hard on thebears.

BackatthehouseinTuktoyaktuk,Stirlingwastakingnotesandreviewingtheweekswork. Fortyhoursofflyingandjusteightbears,hesaidashelookedup. Thatsaprettybiginvestmentforsuchasmallreturn. Lookingoverhisnotesfromthepreviousyear,AndrewDerocherput itallintoperspective.Lastyearbythistime,wehad258bears,hesaid. Thisyear,wehavejust58. The possibility that the bears had moved north to find the ringed sealswasapossibilitythatStirlingwasntcountingout,andhesuggested thatDerochermightwanttoshifthissearcheffortstherewhenhetakes overlaterintheweek. Derocheragreed,buthewasnotoptimistic. Maybethebearshavemovednorthordispersedinotherdirections, hesaid.Ifthatsthecase,thentheyrebeingforcedtowalkanother200 or300kilometers[120180miles]tocompeteformealsthatotherbears intheareaarealreadylookingfor.Youhavetowonderwhatsgoingto happendowntheroadastheicecontinuestoretreat.Asthatmarginof favorableicekeepsmovingnorthinthecomingyears,itwillonlybea matteroftimebeforethesebearsrunoutofroom.