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By Rob
One of the worst things an owner can do to their vehicle is to not drive it. For cars that are daily drivers this is seldom an issue. But vehicles for weekend joy rides, days at the track, or even vehicles purchased as a collectors item, inactivity can be a real concern. And if the vehicle in question is older, has a drivability issue or needs some impossible to find part to be fun again, this likelihood of staying parked approaches certainty. The C4 Corvette is no exception. Over the past two decades I have had countless conversations with owners of C4 Corvettes covering nearly every topic that can be addressed. By far, it seems, the most visited is whether or not they should keep their stock fuel injection system or change it to something else. The culprits of this sentiment tends to be a recurring engine problem that cannot be resolved, and the subsequent dumping of money into the pit, or the desire for a engine upgrade that the owner feels the factory induction system could not adequately support. My first suggestion for the former has been to bring the car to us or, if not local, to find a Corvette shop in their area. (If you are hitting a wall with some aspect of your car feel free to contact me via email and I will do my best to get you back on the road, or at least pointed in the right direction.) As far as I know, these problems were successfully identified and addressed. Regardless, a customer may feel discouraged or reluctant to spend money (or more money) on an engine fuel system they see as antiquated, overly complicated or disregarded by the mechanics in their area. If you happen to find yourself in this predicament do not despair. There are some very affordable options available for both the customer simply trying to find a reliable driver and the performance enthusiast seeking to move to another level of fun, if your emission laws permit it. If they dont, well. For this month let us focus on the carb swap. I will address other options in next months issue. To those C4 drivers who are concerned with degrading the value of their car, please keep in mind the modifications I will be discussing are completely reversible. Furthermore, you will do more harm to your car by letting it sit than by making some bolt on modifications which result in it being driven. By far the easiest engine conversion for the C4 induction system is to install a carburetor. Not to discredit my previous statement, I should clarify that installing a carb set-up is easiest. But, to do it properly, several factors must be considered. The following suggestions are based on my experience of what has worked. There may be other combinations that I have not tried which may work perfectly fine. If you have a working combination not mentioned below please feel free to let me know.
Intake
Obviously, a carb conversion will require the replacement of the intake manifold. I have only found two that function well and provide enough clearance under the stock hood. The Performer (p/n 2101) (not the EPS, Performer RPM, nor any of the Air-Gaps) or the Torker II both do the job. If you are running essentially a stock engine I would stick with the Performer. The Torker II would be better for a modded car with a cam, heads, exhaust, gears or a combination of these components.
Carburetor
For this project my carburetor of choice is a Holley square bore. I have not used Edelbrocks or Q-jets for this application. They may work with a Performer intake. I have found success with the Holleys. Consider their Avenger series carbs. The 80xxx line-up have vacuum secondaries and electric choke which is an ideal configuration for the street. For those with a stock motor and not looking to increase the performance factor later look at the Holley 80570. With a stock motor but later adding some headers, a cam or other performance parts, or for those with an already modified motor an 80670 is a better option. Extensive motor work or even an engine swap may require the 80770. If you havent figured it out, the last three digits of the carb number refer to the air flow capacity (in CFM) of the carb. If you decide on an Avenger series or other square bore carb and want to use the Performer intake you must use a flange adapter (adds about 1/8 to height). The Torker II is a square bore only.
Distributor
The next item we need to replace is the distributor. The distributor on the 1984-91 is a computer controlled unit and since the computer is not longer in the picture we need to find a distributor that does not require a computer. And this part is probably the easiest yet. Just about any GM HEI with vacuum advance will do the job. The coil and tach wires will plug right up and you can even reuse your plug wires.
Throttle bracket
The throttle bracket that will work for both manual and automatic cars is the Holley 20-95. For the manual cars that do not have the kickdown cable the lower position will not be used. For the automatics using the cable bracket with adapter (20-121), the alignment of the throttle valve cable will be correct, but still need to be properly adjusted. The
accelerator cable on the 84 is a bit long but can be routed to work and for the remaining years the cable is much shorter but again, it will work. Use throttle return springs (20-89). For those 85-91 drivers with C68 (electronic A/C) who are interested in keeping their A/C working give me a call. It can be done but there is a bit involved. For 84 and 85-91 drivers with C60 (manual A/C) who want to keep the A/C we need to install a solenoid bracket (Holley 20-9), nut (26-57) and solenoid (46-74). Use a wire tap (blue) on the green wire going to the A/C compressor and run it to the fast idle solenoid. (For 85-91 C60 cars there is one more step for the fans in the next section.) When the compressor cycles on, the idle speed will be bumped up. This will need to be adjusted after idle speed and fueling are adjusted.
For ZF-6 cars nothing need be done. Your 1 to 4 upshift is controlled by the ecm and is therefore disabled. The light on the dash will no longer indicate for this upshift either. Now, for the 84 4+3 cars, make sure the ECM is removed. At the ECM on the harness locate the light blue wire in connector 451 position 22 and using a splice connector jump it to the tan/black wire on the same in position 19. With this configuration your overdrive will act as a fifth gear as it will only function if the manual gearbox is in fourth gear and the overdrive selector switch, that you control, is closed. Other configurations are available so call me is the set-up described here does not suit you. For 85 4+3 vehicles some additional steps are needed. Make sure the ECM is removed. If the O/D selector switch is in the console then it should be a normal toggle switch. To confirm this go the ECM harness and do a continuity test to ground at the light blue wire on connector 1 position 7. With each change in the switch position the test should show the circuit opening and closing to ground indicating a standard toggle switch. If the meter shows continuity to ground and immediately, with no further change in switch position, opens again, then you have a momentary switch and would need to jump to the 86-88 procedure further down (this condition should only exist in late 85 which, like the 86-88, has the switch in the shifter not the console). For console switches indicating a standard toggle use splice connectors to jump a wire from the light blue wire to the tan/black wire in connector 2 position A7. In this configuration you will directly control overdrive in any gear. I recommend that you use it only when the manual transmission is in 4 th gear, essentially as a fifth gear like the 84. For the 86 to 88 cars, and 85 cars with the momentary switch the easiest remedy is to replace the momentary switch with a push on/push off switch such as the one offered by RadioShack (p/n 275-1555). I can not locate the part I used previously but I believe this will fit (if not please let me know). One terminal of this switch will be connected to ground and the other routed to the tan/black wire on connector 2 position A7. With this modification you can directly control your overdrive. As I mentioned above, I recommend using the overdrive as a fifth gear (only when the manual transmission is in 4th gear). The final electrical component that needs integration is the electric choke. Since the intake manifolds in this project do not have EGR valve provisions, the EGR valve solenoid is of no use. Using another splice connector run a wire from the pink/black wire on the connector to the positive terminal of the choke.
Vacuum lines
Vacuum lines of appropriate size will be needed for the brake booster, HVAC , PCV and distributor vacuum advance. On the Holley carb suggested above there are provisions available for each of these systems, although the PCV and HVAC ports are pointing to the passenger side.
I think that pretty much covers the parts and the areas of the install that need to be addressed. I did not deal with stuff like heater hoses, etc. since it seems pretty straight forward already but I will do my best to help with any issues you may encounter.
If you are interested in the above conversion but having trouble getting parts, or prefer the convenience of having the parts available as a complete kit, contact me and I will try to help you out. Also, for those who are not interested in a carb conversion but do want more performance from their C4 motors, you may find next months article of interest as I discuss my bolt on fuel injection system upgrade in which we swap out your TPI/Crossfire for a bolt on Edelbrock Pro Flo XT system. Best Regards, Rob