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THE SCIENTIFIC
NO FITTING TO
DO.
SECOND EDITION.
"AUG
11
AS
TAUGHT BY
Important Notice.
No
first
use
in
any
manner
my
Scientific
Lady
Tailor
System
without having
my
by me.
Entered according
to
act
of
Congress, on the
in
fifth
day of
Sfiis
is
lo
dectify,
Thai
M
has the right
to
use
my
the
sum of $5.00.
Teaching
system
for
my own
not
teach
it
to
written
consent
of
A)
A basting thread must be run on the line of the waist. Baste carefully, that lining and outside are perfectly smooth. In basting up the waist, pin at the waist and arm lines, and The most troublesome seam in hold long seam next to you. the whole waist is the curved side body seam, which comes next to the back. In basting this seam on one side of the back commence at the waist line and go up as in other seams, holding The other side must be the outward curved seam toward you. pinned at the waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then commence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam toward you, as on the other side. In sewing up seams do not have the machine stitch too short, or it will draw. Nick the seams, so that the waist will spring nicely into the If you wish to finish figure, and then press them all open. with tailor-like neatness, bind the seams with ribbon. No hook and eye pieces are required, but instead a waistband should be put inside the dress to keep it in place. One-half inch is enough, except All seams must be allowed. under the arms, where the seams should be somewhat deeper. It is absolutely necessary to use a tracing wheel in order to have your lines perfectly true. After the dress is well cut, it must be made with great care, paying strict attention to the rules. in plush likeIn cutting velvet, the nap must be run up wise in sealskin, down. In cutting plaid be sure to match the stripes in waist, skirt and trimming, which can always be done. If the silesia, drilling, or other material used for lining the It is economy waist, is cut crossways it is less apt to stretch. to use a good quality of material for lining, as a poor lining will wear out sooner than outside goods, and the result will be that the seam will stretch, and the waist lose its shape. A dress should not be made so tight as to draw. The corset should be pulled in as required, and the waist should be fitted The seams will stretch over it easily and without wrinkles. and fray out if this rule is not followed. The same corset should be worn with the dress it was measured and fitted over, as different corsets change the figure. A dressmaker should make it a rule never to measure a lady over old or ill-fitting corsets.
;
;
The Purpose
This
of This
Book.
book
is
is
principles
of
Dress
Cutting, and
To Dressmakers.
It will
dressmakers, who, like the inventor, have had the same sad
all
To Ladies
in
Private Life.
It is especially
adapted to the
who wish
to alter or It is as
make much
their
own
dresses
trouble or more to
more
times
expensive material
as
much
work be done by
superintend
to
it
they choose
will
to
at
devote
more
artistic
work.
ladies, to
To Young Ladies.
system
trade.
it
Young
who do
you
this
Many
of
you
object to
Most
of those
this are
or cutting
There are few who are taught the art of measuring, drafting, by rule, basting and fitting, and that all seams are
;
some having
In
fact,
to
be stretched, while
their apprentices
glimpse of these
such as quilling,
etc.
fluting,
button-hole
making, overcasting,
an adept
We
its
guarantee
perfect
Arm
Holes,
without Refitting.
It is
simply perfect
in all
we
any one
Merits.
in
Never take
Dress
cut
for
instructions
judge
and tried on. Many claim to be self-fitting, but yourself whether the fit is good or bad.
all
We
have tried
wonder that experienced dressmakers are disgusted with them. Practice and experience enable us to say that we have yet to
record a single failure in the use of our
It is
New
system.
is
is
a particle of alteration.
drafting, that
The
with
ordinary
care a
almost impossible.
will
Many
Scientific
inquire,
"
What
is
the difference
between the
square
so-called Tailor
Systems
will ever
with
imitation
By
competent to
cut
like
Lady Tailor System, you will be tailor, by the tape measure alone,
;
American
styles.
Measure
1.
for Drafting
Basque.
5.
of
belt,
Back.
From
bottom of the
and
if
the lady
is
an
one
to
one
and one-
back below
6.
line 1.
Neck Measure.
collar.
Place
Bust Measure.
of the bust
8.
Place the tape around the up over the shoulder blades closely.
fullest
part
Length of Front.
Front
hollow
in
the
neck
to
lower
part of belt.
9.
Chest
Measure.
From
shoulder
to
chest.
10. 11.
12.
13.
14.
From the bottom of the Height of Hip. From the down the Hip Measure. Around the hip over the Shoulder Measure. From the neck end Neck Elbow Measure. Place the hand
Height of Dart.
belt
to
belt up.
hip bone.
bustle.
to
of shoulder.
to
to
the neck
before measuring, then pass the tape from the neck over point
of shoulder to the point of elbow.
15.
close
Bend
of the Arm.
elbow.
16.
Inside
Measure
to
Wrist.
While
down
to the wrist,
measures.
17.
Upper
will
Arm Meamre.
expand.
Around
the arm.
The same
for
middle and lower arm measures, keeping the arm bent so the
muscles
18.
Elbow Measure.
is
the arm
straight, then
elbow.
11).
Place
the thumb, so the sleeve will be just large enough for the hand
to slip through.
20.
belt
Skirt Measure.
Place
is
the
tape
at the
bottom of the
and bring
down
if
which
is
placed
inches longer
wanted.
Two and
one-eighth for a
medium
Always Use a
Never take
to
Belt.
a measure without
take back length too long, which will cause wrinkles on the
too
hips and
observe
all
much length between arm and neck. Strictly in the book and we guarantee a fit without rules
alteration.
The use of curvatures is to get even lines unless you do this your seams will not be straight, which causes wrinkles.
;
to
Draw
Trace
straight lines,
-
Stitch straight.
10
BASQUE
No,
COPYRIGHTED.
11
Directions for
1.
Basque No.
1.
Draw
Draw Draw
3 the
line 2.
4.
Draw
line 1.
line 1
from the edge of the paper to the right and add the extension
below
5.
Dot
on lines 1 and
3, half
the width
draw
line
3 to line 1.
6.
of the
Dot to the left of line 5, on lines 1 and 3, the diameter arm eye measure and draw line 6 through the dots just
line 3 to line 1.
made from
7.
Dot on lines 1 and 3, to the left of line 4, half the bust measure, and draw line 7 through clots just made from line 3 down the w hole length of front.
T
8.
Draw
Draw
T
by drawing
6.
a cross
and 3 and
line
Draw
and
line 9
6, for
back shoulder
11.
Dot
line
A
1,
is
left
below
to dot
and draw a
from junction
and 4
A.
1,
Take half the space between 5 and 6, on line make dot K, draw slanting w aist line from dot A to draw to the end of line 7.
12.
T
and
and
12
13.
Dot
to the
right
of line
line
ture from
the
end of
line
one-half of an inch
below
line 3 to line 7.
14.
15.
Draw
line
5.
it
neck
16.
line
for shoulder
To the
take
right of line
2,
half the
make
a dot where
first
the
junction
of lines 9
and make dot F, and then curve from and 5 to dot V. and then round to
to shoulder
through above
the
chest
measure and up
measure and
line
One inch
Dot
and
line
make
5
dot
C.
is
one-half inch to
is
right
of line
left
on
waist
line.
Dot E
one-half inch
the
of
slanting
Place large
end
of
curvature at
dot
B and draw
;
down
it
to half the
way from
dot
to dot
13
lines 6
and 7 on slanting
w aist
T
darts
22.
Draw
darts
by
placing the small end of curvature on the end of each line and
line 9 to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
(dot.)
Curve front of
make rounding
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
24.
to line 7 at
bottom of paper.
back
To
find the
measure from
curved
to
for
and under arm gore, side body, and from B to A for back,
line of the front
the space between the darts and from the back dart to half the
make
dot G.
If
comes
if
to the right of
space between
25.
Draw
of front
to
for
arm eye straight for back and front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G back of under arm gore.
line
up
to
26.
lines
Extend
lines 4
and 7
to the
of darts, leaving one-half inch each side the center lines at the
bottom of paper.
27.
Measure
on hip
and 4
from
line 1
the
Mark
line.
C,
D,
and
line,
exactly below
line
on waist
28.
Draw back
line 4 at
from
end of
14
29.
Draw
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
30.
rule.
right of
31.
Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch C on hip line with curvature.
Front of side bod}^
is
to the
sloped from
left
of
D
32.
on hip
line.
is
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
33.
on hip
line.
is
sloped from
one inch to
the
left of II
on hip
line.
is
34.
Back of
front
sloped from II
line.
on hip
measuring
all
the places
on hip
add on or take
measure.
P. S.
16
BASQUE
No. 2,
COPYRIGHTED.
17
Directions for
Basque No.
2.
One inch to the left of dot K, on waist line, make dot H, and draw line 12 from II up to arm eye straight for back
24.
of front
K
for
on waist
line
draw
line
line
13 from
to
back of
arm
gore.
Extend
lines 4
darts, leaving
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
1,
the
Mark
line.
C, D, G,
and
27.
below
letters
on waist
Draw back
line
line
from
end of
28.
Draw
Back
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
29.
right of
rule.
of the side
body
is
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
C on
hip
line.
30.
left of
sloped from
on hip
line.
is
31.
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
32.
on hip
line.
is
Back
of front
is
sloped
from
II
on hip
line.
all
the places
on hip
add on or take
measure.
18
19
Basque No.
1 until
7,
you get
to rule 21.
To
between
this dot
back
dart,
which
is
curved
line.
measure
22.
to four inches
in
basque
No.
1.
23.
make
dot
and
left of dot G make dot H, on waist line draw a line from H up to arm eye straight for front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G to E for back of under arm
gore.
24.
from
for to
for back,
and from
from
dot.
front curved
to dart,
back bias
curve
dart to
and
down
to half
line 12,
P. S.
Half
Extend
lines of
the waist
measure
should
come within
of
K,
if
not
make under
arm gore
25.
larger or smaller.
lines 4
and 7
to the
centre
side of
at
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
line 1,
for
hip,
below
and draw
14
Mark
line.
C, D,
and
on hip
line
20
27.
Draw Draw
A
B
to
down
one-half inch to
straight
down
to
bottom
Back of side body is sloped from C one inch of C on hip line with curvature.
Front of side body
is
to the
sloped from
of
on hip
line.
31.
Back
of under
arm gore
is
sloped from
to one inch
to the right of
G on
hip line.
32.
gore
is
sloped
from
II
one-half
on hip
line.
body and back and the dart space between the darts and
gore, side
line for
21
Rules for
Proceed as
you get
to
body and one-half inch to the right on waist line and dot I to the left of dot G the width of side body, and draw line 14 from I up to arm eye straight for front of front under arm gore and draw line 13 from G up to half the space between dot E and top of line 11 in arm eye for back of front under arm gore.
1.
Take width of
side
of dot
Again take width of side body and one-half inch to left K, make dot L and dot N to the right of L the width of side body and draw line 15 from L up to top of line 13 in arm eye for front of back under arm gore. Draw line 16 from N to
2.
of dot
dot
for
Measure from I to G and from L to N for under arm gores, and then from D to C for side body, and from B to A for back, and from front curved line to dart space between darts, and from back bias dart to half the waist measure and
3.
make
Use small end of curvature from top of line 14 to dot just made on waist line for back of front, which makes
a dot.
4.
line 12.
in
exception of under arm gores which are curved one-half inch to right and left of letters on hip line. Measure under arm gores,
side body, back from front curved line to dart, space
between
the darts from the back bias dart to half the hip measure and a dot on hip line, and curve from end of line 12 on waist line to dot just made on hip line for back of front.
make
22
EVERY LADY
ITER
OWN DRESSMAKER.
23
Basque
Proceed as
24.
in
for
Gores.
Basque No.
you get
to rule 24.
One and one-half inches to the left of dot H, and draw line 12 from dot II up to arm eye
back of
front, then
make dot
;
straight for
measure side body back and front take half of the remainder of the waist measure and put equally to and make dot G, and to the left of dot H make the right of
dot
I,
and draw
line
13 from dot
line
up
tween dot
from dot I
and end of
the
to top of
line
12, which
makes
front under
arm
remaining
and one-half inch to the left of dot K make dot L and dot N to the right where the remainder of the waist measure comes,
and draw
dot
line
16 from dot
13,
L up
to top of line
to dot E, and draw line 15 from which makes back under arm gore.
25.
Extend
lines 4
and 7 to the bottom of paper and centre back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of
each side the centre lines at the
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
on
lines
Mark
C,
D, N, G,
line.
H
27.
and I on hip
line,
Draw back
line
line
from
to one-half inch
rule.
to the left of
end of
28.
Draw
back from
straight
down
to
bottom of
is
sloped from
C one inch
to the
30.
left of
sloped from
on hip
line.
24
is
sloped from
to one-
N
L
on hip
to
line.
arm gore
hip line.
32.
is
sloped from
on
Back
is
of front under
arm gore
on hip
is
sloped from
(1 to
one-
G
I
line.
arm gore
hip line.
33.
sloped from
to
Back
of the front
is
on hip
2G
PRINCESS OR POLONAISE.
COPYRIGHTED.
27
Princess or Polonaise.
Proceed as
22.
in
Basque No.
line
1, until
you get
to
Rule 22.
Draw
taking out one-fourth of each dart from the outside of darts, and draw front dart according to measure, and back dart onequarter inch higher, and slanting back one-fourth inch, then
line 9
to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
neck
(dot.)
Curve front
make rounding
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
24.
to line 7 at
bottom of paper.
the side
Then measure
line
curved
the space between darts, and then from back dart to half the
Take half the space from dot just made and back dart and make dot H, and draw line 12 from H up to the arm eye for back of front, slanting a little to the right. Then take the space of the darts you have taken out and put to the right of II on waist line, and make dot I, and put the same space to the right of half the waist measure dot, and make dot G, and draw line 13 from G to E for back draw line 14 from I up to end of line 12 in of under arm gore arm eye for front of under arm gore.
waist measure and
a dot.
;
make
P. S.
5,
measure comes
2,
of drawing
bottom of paper.
25.
Extend
lines
and
to
the
of darts, letting
bottom of
paper.
28
26.
Measure
on hip
and 4
line.
from
line 1
the
Mark
C,
D, G, I
and
line,
line.
27.
from
to one-half inch
to the left of
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
29.
right
30.
left of
rule.
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
sloped from
on hip
line.
31.
Back
of under
arm gore
is
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
32.
on hip
line.
is
an inch to the
33.
of I on hip
front
is
line.
Back of the
sloped from
on hip
add on or take
oil'
measure.
30
31
1.
Line
is
the diameter of
inside to wrist
measure added, dot on this line where the diameter begins and
make dot A, take half the space between dot A and end of line 1 and make a dot, one-fourth inch to the left of this dot make dot B, to the left of dot A make dot C inside to bend measure.
2. 3.
Line 2
is
two-thirds the
Line 3
is
4.
5.
Draw
lines 4, 5
5,
A
dot
E.
and C
to line 3.
On On
;
line
one-half
from
A, make dot
make dot
line
6,
from
dot C, dot
make
;
dot
F make
;
and
draw
to
a line
from
to
F and E
to
line 1 at
II,
H.
7.
Draw
line
line
three-fourths the
;
wrist
measure straight
left
down
to the
of the
to dot
end of
make
just made.
8.
On
line 8
;
make
dot
K,
from dot
make
on
dot
I,
and from
I,
mark
Dot L
is
line 3
line 2.
make dot M.
line 2
;
and 3 on
10.
On
line 6, inside of F,
is
mark
for the
upper sleeve
three inches
wider than
the
under
sleeve.
Mark
for
for
under sleeve
from G.
32
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot for elbow, letting tape pass line 6, between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes to then draw line 9 from F through dot just made to line 3, and mark Q and 11 on this line.
11.
and measure
;
12.
Draw
a line from
to
and from
and from
to
last
made,
and from
13.
to
K, and from
to J,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and F to II, and curve inside of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. In
curving the top of upper sleeve begin at
quarter inch below dot
and curve
to
one-
to line 2,
and
to
to one-half inch
below
dot
measure.
is
The
front
sewed
in
where the
to
back shoulder
2, the
SKIRT DRAFT.
COPYRIGHTED.
34
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35
Line
is
the diameter of
this
line
arm eye and inside to wrist where the diameter begins the space between dot B and end of
inch
to the right of this dot
and make a
dot, one-fourth
make
2.
3.
B make
dot
inside to
bend
measure.
Line 2
is
Line 3
is
the
same length
as line
1.
4.
5.
Draw
lines 4, 5
and C
to
line
;
3.
On On
dot
three-
make dot
line
6,
one and
three-fourth
inches
from dot
dot
C.
make
line
1
F make
and draw a
at
line
from
to
F and E
to
and draw
line
from
to
7.
H.
Draw
line 7
line
three-fourths
1
;
the
wrist
measure
left
straight
of the
to dot
end of
make
8
a dot and
draw
line
8 from dot
just made.
8.
On
line
;
make
from dot
II
H
J.
make dot
I,
and from
I,
mark
Dot L
is
2.
From L draw
make dot M.
and draw
Dot
line
is
to
end of
line 1
from
to line
4 and
make dot 0.
10.
On
line
is
upper sleeve
6, inside of F, mark for the elbow so that the two inches wider than the under sleeve. Mark
for
for
36
11.
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot N and measure for elbow, letting tape pass line 6 between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes then draw line 9 from F, through dot just made, to line 3, to and mark Q and R on this line.
; ;
12.
Draw
a line from
to
R, and from
and
to
last
made,
and from
13.
to
K. and from
to J,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and from F to H, and curve inside In curving the of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. top of upper sleeve begin at D and curve to N and to M, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms, and curve outside of
sleeve according to measure.
you get
lines 6
to
Rule 18.
and 7 on slanting
Draw
use
long
curvature from the top of the line to the centre of each dart,
which
2(1.
one dart.
on waist
dot
line
make
line 5,
space
between
and
line.
curvature at dot
of back.
B and draw
a.
37
21.
To
find
to
and
make
22.
Take
between
and make
dot H, dot
is
H
to
as the waist
measure
is
from C.
Draw
line
12 from II up
arm
from
draw
line
13
up
23.
Extend
line
and
to
the
centre
Measure
on
lines 7
and 4
line.
from
line
the
Mark
line
dots B, C,
line
and
on hip
line.
Draw back
from
end of
27.
Draw
back from
straight
down
to
bottom
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
29.
left
sloped from
two inches
to the
of
on hip
line.
30.
Back of
on hip
line.
front
is
sloped from
two inches
to the right
of
H
31.
on hip
add on or take
measure.
39
Proceed as
in
Basque No.
1,
Draw
line
belt-line.
Draw
line 2
is
arm measure.
Dot [A]
of end of line 4.
as dress, then
arm-eye around
to
in vest-front.
in
Basque No.
1.
Dot
measure, and draw line from one-half inch above line 3 through
dots just
made down
to
Put
neck on
line 7, as
shown
in draft.
left
make
line
Then measure the width of the dart at waist and put the same space to the left of [H] and make a
a [dot.]
[dot,]
front of coat.
side
front of coat to half the hip measure, then use curvature from
line
to
4(1
DOUBLEIBREASTED COAT.
Will be explained by Teacher.
<xj
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THE SCIENTIFIC
NO
FITTING TO DO.
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HO
SECOND EDITION.
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