Every Lady Her Own Dressmaker The Scientific Lady Tailor System For

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EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.
THE SCIENTIFIC
Lady Tailor System

FOR
CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES *? COATS.
NO FITTING TO
DO.
IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED
SECOND EDITION.
"AUG
11
AS
TAUGHT BY
^PROF. LOUIS MOLPOERO

WASHINGTON,
D. C.
Important Notice.
No
first
person shall have any right, whatever, to
use
in
any
manner
my
Scientific
Lady
Tailor
System
without having
procured from me, or
my
authorized agent, a book signed
by me.
Entered according
to
act
of
Congress, on the
in
fifth
day of
March, 1891, by Louis Molpoer,

of Congress, at Washington, D. C. All rights reserved.
the office of the Librarian
No. of copyright, 8375.
Sfiis
is
lo
dectify,
Thai
M
has the right
to
use
my
the
Improved System of Dress Cutting, for which has been paid
sum of $5.00.
Teaching
I agree to use the said
system
for
my own
use only, and will
not
teach
it
to
any one without the
written
consent
of
the owner, or a duly authorized agent.
A)
Rules for Basting.
A basting thread must be run on the line of the waist. Baste carefully, that lining and outside are perfectly smooth. In basting up the waist, pin at the waist and arm lines, and The most troublesome seam in hold long seam next to you. the whole waist is the curved side body seam, which comes next to the back. In basting this seam on one side of the back commence at the waist line and go up as in other seams, holding The other side must be the outward curved seam toward you. pinned at the waist line, and at intervals up the seam, then commence basting at the top, holding the outward curved seam toward you, as on the other side. In sewing up seams do not have the machine stitch too short, or it will draw. Nick the seams, so that the waist will spring nicely into the If you wish to finish figure, and then press them all open. with tailor-like neatness, bind the seams with ribbon. No hook and eye pieces are required, but instead a waistband should be put inside the dress to keep it in place. One-half inch is enough, except All seams must be allowed. under the arms, where the seams should be somewhat deeper. It is absolutely necessary to use a tracing wheel in order to have your lines perfectly true. After the dress is well cut, it must be made with great care, paying strict attention to the rules. in plush likeIn cutting velvet, the nap must be run up wise in sealskin, down. In cutting plaid be sure to match the stripes in waist, skirt and trimming, which can always be done. If the silesia, drilling, or other material used for lining the It is economy waist, is cut crossways it is less apt to stretch. to use a good quality of material for lining, as a poor lining will wear out sooner than outside goods, and the result will be that the seam will stretch, and the waist lose its shape. A dress should not be made so tight as to draw. The corset should be pulled in as required, and the waist should be fitted The seams will stretch over it easily and without wrinkles. and fray out if this rule is not followed. The same corset should be worn with the dress it was measured and fitted over, as different corsets change the figure. A dressmaker should make it a rule never to measure a lady over old or ill-fitting corsets.
;
;
The Purpose
This
of This
Book.
book
is
is
intended to explain the
principles
of
Dress
Cutting, and
founded on systematic rules, by which any one

fit
can learn to measure, draft, baste, cut,
and make dresses
without further instruction.
To Dressmakers.
It will
be of great use to the professional
dressmakers, who, like the inventor, have had the same sad
experience in the use of
all
other charts and systems.
To Ladies
in
Private Life.
It is especially
adapted to the
use of those ladies
who wish
to alter or It is as
for home and morning wear. a dressmaker to make a chintz
make much
their
own
dresses
trouble or more to
or percale dress, as one of
more
times
expensive material
yet few ladies are willing to pay as much,

the making would often be three
If this class of
for it is probable that
as
much
as the original cost.

if
work be done by
superintend
to
it
the ladies themselves, or
they choose
will
to
at
home, professional dressmakers

to the finer or
have more time
devote
more
artistic
work.
ladies, to
To Young Ladies.
system
trade.
it
Young
who do
you
this
book and the
teaches will be valuable.

eight
Many
of
you
object to
spending at least six to
months' time in learning the

but wasting their time.
Most
of those
this are
or cutting
There are few who are taught the art of measuring, drafting, by rule, basting and fitting, and that all seams are
;
put together differently

others should be held
in.
some having
In
fact,
to
be stretched, while
we have known dressmakers

to get a
who never allowed

special
their apprentices
glimpse of these
necessary things, but kept them

branch,
continually employed in one

ruffling,
such as quilling,
etc.
fluting,
button-hole
making, overcasting,
The time has now come when a young

be considered unfinished unless she
is
lady's education will

in this art.
an adept
We
its
guarantee
perfect
Arm
Holes,
Sleeves, Busts, Darts,
Curves and Neck
without Refitting.
It is
simply perfect
in all
simplicity and beauty, and

its
we
are pleased to cut
any one
Test Dress to Prove
Merits.
in
Never take
Dress
cut
for
instructions
any system without having Test
judge
and tried on. Many claim to be self-fitting, but yourself whether the fit is good or bad.
all
We
have tried
these so-called Tailor Systems, and do not
wonder that experienced dressmakers are disgusted with them. Practice and experience enable us to say that we have yet to
record a single failure in the use of our
It is
New
system.
our experience and the basis of our system, that withit
out a perfect arm hole

waist and sleeves.
is
impossible to have perfect fitting
Our system made without

mistake
is
is
the only one by which a perfect sleeve can be
a particle of alteration.
drafting, that
The
with
rules are so plain
both for measuring and
ordinary
care a
almost impossible.
will
Many
Scientific
inquire,
"
What
is
the difference
between the
square
Lady Tailor System, and the other

"
so-called Tailor
Systems
will ever
Taught from pasteboard,
with
imitation
attached, which are only a deception and fraud, as no person
be able to use a square without the attachment.
By
learning the Scientific
competent to
cut
like
Lady Tailor System, you will be tailor, by the tape measure alone,
;
designated from any fashion plate, either English, French or
American
styles.
This can be learned in a very short time
few hours will instruct a dressmaker without

of any pattern.
refitting or the use
Measure
1.
for Drafting
Basque.

Length
5.
of
belt,
Back.
From
the bone of the neck to the

is
bottom of the
and
if
the lady
long waisted there
is
an
extension below the belt varying from
one
to
one
and one-
fourth inches, which should always be added to the length of
back below
6.
line 1.
Neck Measure.
collar.
Place
the tape around the neck, close
over the inside

7.
Bust Measure.
of the bust
8.
Place the tape around the up over the shoulder blades closely.
fullest
part
Length of Front.
Front
hollow
in
the
neck
to
lower
part of belt.
9.
Chest
Measure.
From
shoulder
to
shoulder across the
chest.
10. 11.
12.
13.
14.
From the bottom of the Height of Hip. From the down the Hip Measure. Around the hip over the Shoulder Measure. From the neck end Neck Elbow Measure. Place the hand
Height of Dart.
belt
to
belt up.
hip bone.
bustle.
to
of shoulder.
to
to
the neck
before measuring, then pass the tape from the neck over point
of shoulder to the point of elbow.
15.
close
Inside Measure to the
Bend
of the Arm.
Place the tape

as
up under the arm and measure to the inside bend of the
elbow.
16.
Inside
Measure
to
Wrist.
While
you have the tape
in direction 15, bring tape on
down
to the wrist,
and note both
measures.
17.
Upper
will
Arm Meamre.
expand.
Around
the arm.
The same
for
middle and lower arm measures, keeping the arm bent so the
muscles
18.
Elbow Measure.
is
Place the tape around the elbow when

bend the arm, keeping the tape over
the arm
straight, then
the point of the
elbow.

Wrist Measure.
11).
Place
the tape around the hand over
the thumb, so the sleeve will be just large enough for the hand
to slip through.
20.
belt
Skirt Measure.
Place
is
the
tape
at the
bottom of the
and bring
down
if
to the top of the right foot,
which
is
placed
out, while the
lady stands upright.

bustle
The back should be two

Skirt should vary in width
inches longer
wanted.
according to the size of the wearer, from two and one-eighth
yards to two and one-half.

sized lady.
Two and
one-eighth for a
medium
Always Use a
Never take
to
Belt.
a measure without
using a belt, as you are likely
take back length too long, which will cause wrinkles on the
too
hips and
observe
all
much length between arm and neck. Strictly in the book and we guarantee a fit without rules
alteration.
The use of curvatures is to get even lines unless you do this your seams will not be straight, which causes wrinkles.
;
There are a very few who are able

curvatures.
to
curve without the aid of
Draw
Trace
straight lines,
-
Curve even seams.

in the lines,
Stitch straight.
Press seams open,
10
BASQUE
No,
COPYRIGHTED.
11
Directions for
1.
Basque No.
1.
Draw
Draw Draw
line 1 eight inches
from the bottom of the paper
for belt line.

2.
3.
line 2 the height of

line
under arm measure above linel.
3 the
diameter of arm eye measure above
line 2.
4.
Draw
line 1.
line 1
the length of back above line 1, one inch
from the edge of the paper to the right and add the extension
below
5.
Dot
to the left of line 4,
on lines 1 and
3, half
the width
of the back, and
draw
line
5 through dots just made, from line
3 to line 1.
6.
of the
Dot to the left of line 5, on lines 1 and 3, the diameter arm eye measure and draw line 6 through the dots just
line 3 to line 1.
made from
7.
Dot on lines 1 and 3, to the left of line 4, half the bust measure, and draw line 7 through clots just made from line 3 down the w hole length of front.
T
8.
Draw
Draw
T
slanting diameter of square,

of lines 3 and 5,
by drawing
6.
a cross
mark from the junction

9.
and 3 and
line
8 to the left of line 4, one-sixth of the neck
measure, for back of the neck.

10.
lines 2
Draw
and
line 9
from the end of

line.
line 8 to the junction of
6, for
back shoulder
11.
Dot
line
A
1,
is
one inch to the

line
left
of the end of line 4,

lines 8
below
to dot
and draw a
from junction
and 4
A.
1,
Take half the space between 5 and 6, on line make dot K, draw slanting w aist line from dot A to draw to the end of line 7.
12.
T
and
and
12
13.
Dot
to the
right
of line
line
7 on line 3, one-fourth the

line
neck measure and draw

3, one-half of
10 up from dot just made on 10

to
an inch less for front of neck, and use neck curva-
ture from
the
end of
line
one-half of an inch
below
line 3 to line 7.
14.
15.
Draw
line
11 from top of neck to junction of 3 and
5.
it
Place the end of the rule at the top of neck, letting
cross center of the square and measure
from the top of the
neck
16.
line
for shoulder
and make a dot the length of the shoulder.

7,
To the
take
right of line
one and one-half inches above
2,
half the
chest measure and
make
a dot where
half the chest measure comes.

17.
lines 9
To curve the arm eye,

and 2 on
line 5
first
take half the space between
the
junction
of lines 9
and make dot F, and then curve from and 5 to dot V. and then round to
to shoulder
half the space between lines 5 and 6 on line 2 and then up
through above
the
chest
measure and up
measure and
line
11, the height of

line,
arm eye measure, then measure

from the top of the arm eye
to
the back shoulder
and make the front shoulder one-quarter
of an inch shorter, and curve
top of the neck.

18.
One inch
Dot
to the left of dot
A, make dot B, take half

5 on waist line and the
to
the space between dot
and
line
make
5
dot
C.
is
one-half inch to
is
right
of line
left
on
waist
line.
Dot E
one-half inch
the
of
slanting
diameter to the right in arm eye.

19.
Place large
end
of
curvature at
dot
B and draw
;
curved line to one-fourth of an inch above dot F, and curve
down
it
to half the
space between dot
inside of back, use curvature the
F and E in arm eye for same way from dot C, letting
touch back line at line 2 for outside of side body.

20.
Use ihe curvature the same

body.
way from
dot
to dot
for inside of side

21.
13
Measure the space between

line, for
is
lines 6
and 7 on slanting
w aist
T
darts, in four equal parts.
The space between
darts
found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each
side of the center mark.
22.
Draw
a line in each center of space for darts, front dart
according to measure, and
back dart one-fourth inch higher,

for
and slanting back one-fourth inch, then curve

curve to waist
23.
line.
darts
by
placing the small end of curvature on the end of each line and
Curve the back of neck from end of
line 9 to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
neck to half of neck measure and make a
(dot.)
Curve front of
waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2,
make rounding
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
24.
to line 7 at
bottom of paper.
back
To
find the
measure from
curved
to
for
and under arm gore, side body, and from B to A for back,
line of the front
omitting the space between
and C, and then from the front

width of darts, measure
line to front dart, omitting the
the space between the darts and from the back dart to half the
waist measure and

line 5
make
dot G.
If
comes
if
to the right of
then use rule 24 of No. 2 Basque,
not measure half the
space between
25.
and back dart and make dot H.

12 from
II
Draw
of front
to
for
arm eye straight for back and front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G back of under arm gore.
line
up
to
26.
lines
Extend
lines 4
and 7
to the
bottom of paper and center
of darts, slanting back one-fourth inch, also outside lines
of darts, leaving one-half inch each side the center lines at the
bottom of paper.
27.
Measure
on hip
for hip line on lines 7
and 4
from
line 1
the
height of hip and draw line 14
for hip line.

letters
Mark
line.
C,
D,
and
line,
exactly below
line
on waist
28.
Draw back
line 4 at
from
to one-half inch to the left of

rule.
end of
bottom of paper with
14
29.
Draw
inside of back from
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
30.
rule.
right of
31.
Back of the side body is sloped from C one inch C on hip line with curvature.
Front of side bod}^
is
to the
sloped from
one inch to the
left
of
D
32.
on hip
line.
is
Back of under arm gore
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
33.
on hip
line.
is
Front of under arm gore
sloped from
one inch to
the
left of II
on hip
line.
is
34.
Back of
front
sloped from II
line.
one and one-fourth
inches to the right of

35.
on hip
If too large or too small after

line,
measuring
all
the places
on hip
add on or take
off to suit the hip
measure.
P. S.
Always baste the
sleeves in, and the collar on, before
putting on the garment.
16
BASQUE
No. 2,
COPYRIGHTED.
17
Directions for
Basque No.
2.
Proceed as in Basque No. 1 until you get to rule 24.
One inch to the left of dot K, on waist line, make dot H, and draw line 12 from II up to arm eye straight for back
24.
of front
then measure side body, back and front, and take

;
the remainder of the waist measure

of
put one half to the right

to the left of
and make dot G, the other half

;
K
for
on waist
line
and make dot I
draw
line
line
13 from
to
back of
under arm gore, draw

front of under
25.
14 from I up to top of line 12 for
arm
gore.
Extend
lines 4
and 7 to the bottom of paper and center

back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of
lines of darts, slanting
darts, leaving
one-half inch each side the center lines at the
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
for hip line
on lines 7 and 4 from line

line.
1,
the
height of hip, and draw line 15 for hip
Mark
line.
C, D, G,
and
27.
I on hip line, exactly
below
letters
on waist
Draw back
line
line
from
end of
28.
4 at bottom of paper with rule.

inside of back from
Draw
Back
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
29.
right of
rule.
of the side
body
is
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
C on
hip
line.
30.
left of
Front of side body
sloped from
one inch to the
on hip
line.
is
31.
Back of under arm gore
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
32.
on hip
line.
is
sloped from I three-fourths
of an inch to the left of I on hip line.

33.
Back
of front
is
sloped
from
II
one and one-fourth
inches to the right of

34.
on hip
line.
all
If too large or too small after measuring

line,
the places
on hip
add on or take
off to suit the hip
measure.
18
BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART.

COPYRIGHTED.
19
French Bias Dart.

Proceed as
21.
in
Basque No.
1 until
7,
you get
to rule 21.
To
the right of line
on waist line take half the chest
measure and make a

and
back
line
dot, divide the space
between
this dot
7 into four equal parts for darts.
Curve the darts

through the chest
the same as in plain basque with the exception of curving the

of the
back
dart,
which
is
curved
line.
measure
22.
to four inches
below the waist
Curve the front of the waist the same as

Three-fourth inch to the left of line 5
in
basque
No.
1.
23.
make
dot
and
left of dot G make dot H, on waist line draw a line from H up to arm eye straight for front of under arm gore, and draw line 13 from G to E for back of under arm
three inches to the
gore.
24.
from
Then measure from H to G to C for side body, from B

line
for to
under arm gore, and
for back,
and from
from
dot.
front curved
to dart,
space between the darts and
back bias
curve
dart to
half the waist
measure and make a

line
Place the small
end of curvature to the top of

front.
(dot)
left
and
down
to half
the waist measure, dot on waist line for
line 12,
which makes the back of the
P. S.
Half
Extend
lines of
the waist
measure
should
come within
one-quarter inch either to right or
of
K,
if
not
make under
arm gore
25.
larger or smaller.
lines 4
and 7
to the
bottom of the paper, and

lines
centre
side of
at
darts and outside lines of front dart and left
back dart to three-eighths of an inch from centre
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
line 1,
for
hip line on lines 4 and 7 the height of

line
hip,
below
and draw
14
for hip line.
Mark
line.
C, D,
and
on hip
line
exactly below letters on waist
20
27.
Draw Draw
outside of back from
A
B
to
down
one-half inch to
the left of line 4 at bottom of the paper with rule.

28. inside of back from
straight
down
to
bottom
of paper with rule.

29. right 30.
left
Back of side body is sloped from C one inch of C on hip line with curvature.
Front of side body
is
to the
sloped from
one inch to the
of
on hip
line.
31.
Back
of under
arm gore
is
sloped from
to one inch
to the right of
G on
hip line.
32.
Front of under arm
gore
is
sloped
from
II
one-half
inch to the left of

33.
on hip
line.
Then measure under arm

line to
from front curved

hip
body and back and the dart space between the darts and
gore, side
from back bias dart

line.
to half the hip
measure and make a dot on
Curve from line 12 on waist line to this dot on hip

back of
front.
line for
21
Rules for
Proceed as
Two Under Arm

in
Gores Bias Dart.

until
basque for French Bias Dart
you get
to
under arm gores.
body and one-half inch to the right on waist line and dot I to the left of dot G the width of side body, and draw line 14 from I up to arm eye straight for front of front under arm gore and draw line 13 from G up to half the space between dot E and top of line 11 in arm eye for back of front under arm gore.
1.
Take width of
side
of dot
and make dot
Again take width of side body and one-half inch to left K, make dot L and dot N to the right of L the width of side body and draw line 15 from L up to top of line 13 in arm eye for front of back under arm gore. Draw line 16 from N to
2.
of dot
dot
for
back of back under arm gore.
Measure from I to G and from L to N for under arm gores, and then from D to C for side body, and from B to A for back, and from front curved line to dart space between darts, and from back bias dart to half the waist measure and
3.
make
Use small end of curvature from top of line 14 to dot just made on waist line for back of front, which makes
a dot.
4.
line 12.
Proceed for hip measure as
in
basque above with the
exception of under arm gores which are curved one-half inch to right and left of letters on hip line. Measure under arm gores,
side body, back from front curved line to dart, space
between
the darts from the back bias dart to half the hip measure and a dot on hip line, and curve from end of line 12 on waist line to dot just made on hip line for back of front.
make
22
EVERY LADY
ITER
OWN DRESSMAKER.
BASQUE FOR TWO UNDER ARM GORES.

COPYRIGHT*:!).
23
Basque
Proceed as
24.
in
for
Two Under Arm

1 until
Gores.
Basque No.
you get
to rule 24.
One and one-half inches to the left of dot H, and draw line 12 from dot II up to arm eye
back of
front, then
make dot
;
straight for
measure side body back and front take half of the remainder of the waist measure and put equally to and make dot G, and to the left of dot H make the right of
dot
I,
and draw
line
13 from dot
line
up
to half the space be-
tween dot
from dot I
and end of
the
12 in arm eye, and draw line 14
to top of
line
12, which
makes
front under
arm
gore, and then take
remaining
portion of waist measure
and one-half inch to the left of dot K make dot L and dot N to the right where the remainder of the waist measure comes,
and draw
dot
line
16 from dot
13,
L up
to top of line
to dot E, and draw line 15 from which makes back under arm gore.
25.
Extend
lines 4
lines of darts, slanting
and 7 to the bottom of paper and centre back one-fourth inch, also outside lines of
each side the centre lines at the
darts, leaving one-half inch
bottom of paper.
26.
Measure
for hip line
on
lines
7 and 4 from line 1, the

line.
height of hip, and draw line 17 for hip

L,
Mark
C,
D, N, G,
line.
H
27.
and I on hip
line,
Draw back
line
line
from
to one-half inch
rule.
to the left of
end of
28.
4 at bottom of paper with

inside of
Draw
back from
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with rule.

29.
right
Back of the side body of C on hip line.

Front of side body
is
is
sloped from
C one inch
to the
30.
left of
sloped from
one inch to the
on hip
line.
24

3
Back of back under arm gore
is
sloped from
to one-
half inch to the right of
N
L
on hip
to
line.
Front of back under
arm gore
hip line.
32.
is
sloped from
one-half inch to the left of
on
Back
is
of front under
arm gore
on hip
is
sloped from
(1 to
one-
half inch to the right of
G
I
line.
Front of front under
arm gore
hip line.
33.
sloped from
to
one-half inch to the left of I on
Back
of the front
is
sloped from II one and one fourth

line.
inch to the right of
on hip
2G
PRINCESS OR POLONAISE.
COPYRIGHTED.
27
Princess or Polonaise.
Proceed as
22.
in
Basque No.
line
1, until
you get
to
Rule 22.
Draw
in each center of space for darts, after
taking out one-fourth of each dart from the outside of darts, and draw front dart according to measure, and back dart onequarter inch higher, and slanting back one-fourth inch, then
curve for darts by placing the small end of long curvature on

the end of each line and curve to waist line.
23.
Curve the back of neck from end of

to half of
line 9
to one-half
inch below line 8 on line 4, then measure back neck and front
neck
neck measure and make a
(dot.)
Curve front
of waist from this dot one-half inch above line 2,
make rounding
curve and into height of dart and into waist line one-half inch,
and out
24.
to line 7 at
bottom of paper.
the side
Then measure
line
curved
to dart, omitting the space of darts,
body and back, and from front and measure
the space between darts, and then from back dart to half the
Take half the space from dot just made and back dart and make dot H, and draw line 12 from H up to the arm eye for back of front, slanting a little to the right. Then take the space of the darts you have taken out and put to the right of II on waist line, and make dot I, and put the same space to the right of half the waist measure dot, and make dot G, and draw line 13 from G to E for back draw line 14 from I up to end of line 12 in of under arm gore arm eye for front of under arm gore.
waist measure and
a dot.
;
make
P. S.
5,
If half the waist
measure comes
2,
to the right of line
proceed the same as in Basque No.

the
with the exception
of drawing
center and outside lines of darts together at
bottom of paper.
25.
Extend
lines
and
to
the
bottom of paper and

lines at
center lines of darts, slanting back one-half inch, also outside

lines
of darts, letting
them touch center
bottom of
paper.
28
26.
Measure
on hip
for hip line on lines 7
and 4
line.
from
line 1
the
height of hip and draw line 15 for hip
Mark
C,
D, G, I
and
line,

line
line.
27.
Draw back Draw
from
to one-half inch
to the left of
end of line 4 at bottom of paper with rule.

28.
inside of back from
straight
down
to
bottom of
paper with
29.
right
30.
left of
rule.
is

Front of side body
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
sloped from
one inch to the
on hip
line.
31.
Back
of under
arm gore
is
sloped from
one inch to
the right of
32.
on hip
line.
is

left
sloped from I three-fourths
an inch to the
33.
of I on hip
front
is
line.
Back of the
sloped from
one and one-fourth
inch to the right of II on hip line.

34.
If too large or too small after measuring all the places

line,
on hip
add on or take
oil'
to suit the hip
measure.
30
31
Rules for Drafting Sleeve No.

1.
1.
Line
is
the diameter of
arm eye and
inside to wrist
measure added, dot on this line where the diameter begins and
make dot A, take half the space between dot A and end of line 1 and make a dot, one-fourth inch to the left of this dot make dot B, to the left of dot A make dot C inside to bend measure.
2. 3.
Line 2
is
two-thirds the
arm eye measure.

1.
Line 3
is
the same length as line
4.
5.
Draw
lines 4, 5
5,
and 6 from dots B,

inch
A
dot
E.
and C
to line 3.
On On
;
line
one-half
from
A, make dot
three-fourths of an inch from

6.
make dot
line
6,
one and one-half inches
from
dot C, dot
make
;
dot
three-fourths of an inch from dot
F make
;
and
draw
to
a line
from
to
F and E
to
line 1 at
bottom of sleeve make dot
II,
and one inch above and draw line from F
H.
7.
Draw
line
line
three-fourths the
;
wrist
measure straight
left
down
from end of line 1

7
and three inches
to the
of the
to dot
end of
make
a dot and draw line 8 from dot
just made.
8.
On
line 8
;
make
dot
K,
three-fourths the wrist measure

II J.
from dot
two inches inside of
make
on
dot
I,
and from
I,
one-fourth the wrist measure,

9.
mark
Dot L
is
one inch above
line 3
line 2.
a line straight to line 4 and
make dot M.
line 2
;
the space between lines 1

to line 4
and 3 on
From L draw Dot N is one-half draw line from N

elbow so that the
and make dot 0.
10.
On
line 6, inside of F,
is
mark
for the
upper sleeve
three inches
wider than
the
under
sleeve.
Mark
for
upper sleeve from F, and
for
under sleeve
from G.
32
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot for elbow, letting tape pass line 6, between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes to then draw line 9 from F through dot just made to line 3, and mark Q and 11 on this line.
11.
and measure
;
12.
Draw
a line from
to
and from
and from
to
last
made,
and from
13.
to
K, and from
to J,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and F to II, and curve inside of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. In
curving the top of upper sleeve begin at
quarter inch below dot
and curve
to
one-
to line 2,
and
to
to one-half inch
below
dot
on line 4, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms
and curve outside of sleeve according

P. S.
measure.
is
The
front
seam of the sleeve

on line
sewed
in
where the
to
back shoulder
line crosses line 6

;
2, the
back seam half
the width of side body
always make the sleeve from one
one and one-half inches larger than the arm eye.
SKIRT DRAFT.
COPYRIGHTED.
34
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35
Rules for Drafting Sleeve No. 2.

1.
Line
is
the diameter of
this
line
measure added, dot on

line 1
and make dot B, take half
arm eye and inside to wrist where the diameter begins the space between dot B and end of
inch
to the right of this dot
and make a
dot, one-fourth
make
2.
3.
dot A, to the left of dot
B make
dot
inside to
bend
measure.
Line 2
is
two-thirds the arm-eye measure.
Line 3
is
the
same length
as line
1.
4.
5.
Draw
lines 4, 5
and G from dots A,
and C
to
line
;
3.
On On
dot
line 5, one-half inch
from dot B, make dot

E.
three-
fourths of an inch from

6.
make dot
line
6,
one and
three-fourth
inches
from dot
dot
C.
make
line
1
three-fourths of an inch from dot
F make
and draw a
at
line
from
to
F and E
to
and one inch above
bottom of sleeve make dot H,
and draw
line
from
to
7.
H.
Draw
line 7
line
three-fourths
1
;
the
wrist
measure
left
straight
dowai from end of line
and three inches to the
of the
to dot
end of
make
8
a dot and
draw
line
8 from dot
just made.
8.
On
line
;
make
dot K, three-fourths the wrist measure
from dot
II
two inches inside of
H
J.
make dot
I,
and from
I,
one-fourth the wrist measure,

9.
mark
Dot L
is
one and one-half inches above line 3 on line

a line straight to line 4 and
2.
From L draw
make dot M.
and draw
Dot
line
is
one- third the space from
to
end of
line 1
from
to line
4 and
make dot 0.
10.
On
line
is
upper sleeve
6, inside of F, mark for the elbow so that the two inches wider than the under sleeve. Mark
for
upper sleeve from F, and
for
under sleeve from G.
36
11.
Take tape measure and place shoulder measure on dot N and measure for elbow, letting tape pass line 6 between Q and R make a dot where your neck to elbow measure comes then draw line 9 from F, through dot just made, to line 3, to and mark Q and R on this line.
; ;
12.
Draw
a line from
to
R, and from
and
to
last
made,
and from
13.
to
K. and from
to J,
to I.
Curve top of under sleeve from E to 0, and curve inside of upper sleeve from D to F and from F to H, and curve inside In curving the of under sleeve from E to G and from G to I. top of upper sleeve begin at D and curve to N and to M, and measure for upper, middle and lower arms, and curve outside of
sleeve according to measure.
For Misses or Children.

Proceed as in Basque No.
18.
1, until
you get
lines 6
to
Rule 18.
Measure the space between

is
and 7 on slanting
waist line, for darts, in four equal parts.

darts
The space between
found by measuring three-eighths of an inch on each
side of the centre mark.

11).
Draw
centre line of dart from the centre of space the
height of dart and slant back one-fourth inch, then
use
long
curvature from the top of the line to the centre of each dart,
which
2(1.
will give the desired fullness for
one dart.
One and one-fourth inches
to the left of dot
on waist
dot
line
make
line 5,
dot B, then take half the
space
between
and
and make dot C on waist
line.
Place large end of
curvature at dot
of back.
B and draw
a.
curve line to dot F, for inside

it
Use curvature the same way from dot C, letting
touch back line at line 2 for outide of side body.
37
21.
To
find
the back line of the front and width of side
body, measure from

dart, omitting the
to
and
from front curved line to

dot on waist line.
this dot
width of dart, and then from back of dart,
to half the waist measure and
make
22.
Take
half the space
between
and back of dart
and make
dot H, dot
is
the same distance to the right of
H
to
as the waist
measure
is
from C.
Draw
line
12 from II up
arm
from
eye half the space between lines 5 and 6,
draw
line
13
up
to top of line 12.

lines
23.
Extend
line
and
to
the
bottom of paper and
centre
of dart, also outside line of dart leaving one-half
inch space each side of centre line.

24.
Measure
for hip line
on
lines 7
and 4
line.
from
line
the
height of hip and draw line 14 for hip

25.
26.
Mark
line
dots B, C,
line
and
on hip
line.
Draw back
from
end of
27.
4 at bottom of paper with rule.

inside of
Draw
back from
straight
down
to
bottom
of paper with rule.

28.
right

Front of side body
is
is
sloped from
C one
inch to the
29.
left
sloped from
two inches
to the
of
on hip
line.
30.
Back of
on hip
line.
front
is
sloped from
two inches
to the right
of
H
31.
If too large or too small after measuring all the places

line,
on hip
add on or take
off to suit the hip
measure.
BLAZER COAT AND VEST.

COPYRIGHTED.
39
Blazer Coat and Vest.
Proceed as
in
Basque No.
1,
for Blazer coat

:
and vest with
the exception of the following changes
Draw
line
one 14 inches from bottom of paper for

one-half inch higher than under
left
belt-line.
Draw
line 2
is
arm measure.
Dot [A]
one and one-half inches to the
of end of line 4.
After getting arm-eye same
as dress, then
make back and

6,
front shoulder lines one-quarter inch shorter than curve coat-
arm-eye around
to
one inch below junction of lines 2 and

to go
which makes coat-arm-eye large enough
over the dress.
Put one Dart

Find Dot
[G-]
in vest-front.
and [H] the same as
in
Basque No.
1.
Dot
to the left of line 7
on lines 3 and 1 one-fourth the neck
measure, and draw line from one-half inch above line 3 through
dots just
made down
to
bottom of paper, which makes front
of coat, and curve neck to top of this line above line 3.
Put
in one-half inch dart at
neck on
line 7, as
shown
in draft.
Three-fourth inch to the
left
of end of line 12, in arm-eye
make
line
Then measure the width of the dart at waist and put the same space to the left of [H] and make a
a [dot.]
[dot,]
use small end of curvature at dot in arm-eye, to [dot]
at waist line, which
makes back of the
front of coat.
Then measure under arm

back of front coat on waist
in draft.
side
body and back, and from

bottom of paper as shown
front of coat to half the hip measure, then use curvature from
line
to
4(1
DOUBLEIBREASTED COAT.
Will be explained by Teacher.
<xj
PRICE, $5.00;E>
THE SCIENTIFIC
Lady Tailor System

FOR
CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES <ff COATS.
NO
FITTING TO DO.
,&*"**
IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED-
HO
SECOND EDITION.
AS
TAUGHT BY
OPROF. LOUIS MOLPOERI>

Washington,
d.'c.
COPYRIGHTED.
BASQUE FOR FRENCH BIAS DART.
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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
007 199 998

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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA.

EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.

Lady Tailor System

CUTTING LADIES' DRESSES *? COATS.

IMPROVED AND SIMPLIFIED

^PROF. LOUIS MOLPOERO

EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.

person shall have any right, whatever, to

procured from me, or

authorized agent, a book signed

March, 1891, by Louis Molpoer,

the office of the Librarian

No. of copyright, 8375.

Improved System of Dress Cutting, for which has been paid

I agree to use the said

use only, and will

any one without the

the owner, or a duly authorized agent.

EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.

Rules for Basting.

EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.

intended to explain the

founded on systematic rules, by which any one

can learn to measure, draft, baste, cut,

and make dresses

without further instruction.

be of great use to the professional

experience in the use of

other charts and systems.

use of those ladies

for home and morning wear. a dressmaker to make a chintz

or percale dress, as one of

yet few ladies are willing to pay as much,

for it is probable that

as the original cost.

the ladies themselves, or

home, professional dressmakers

have more time

book and the

teaches will be valuable.

spending at least six to

months' time in learning the

put together differently

we have known dressmakers

who never allowed

necessary things, but kept them

continually employed in one

EVERY LADY HER OWN DRESSMAKER.

The time has now come when a young

lady's education will

Sleeves, Busts, Darts,

Curves and Neck

simplicity and beauty, and

are pleased to cut

Test Dress to Prove

any system without having Test

these so-called Tailor Systems, and do not

our experience and the basis of our system, that withit

out a perfect arm hole

impossible to have perfect fitting

Our system made without

the only one by which a perfect sleeve can be