Haynes

Alternative and Low-Cost Pedal-Box

Construction Guide
Version 2.0 12th June 2012 By Sylvain ROIG sylvain.3design@gmail.com See pictures of my Pedal-Box construction on my blog: http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/2012/05/pedalier1-pedal-box1.html http://vouchtroadster.blogspot.se/2012/06/pedalier2-pedal-box2.html

Important note about the language Im French and not natural English speaking. I did my best to write this guide in the best English I could, but Im aware it should be full of mistakes. I want to apology for that, and I hope it is understandable enough. If anybody wants to help me to put this guide in a better English, I can send all the texts by email for correction, and integrate them in a new version. Thank you. Sylvain

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

Introduction
Before starting the construction, it might be important to know why and how I re-drew the PedalBox, and what technical choices I had to do and why. Here are some explanations about this alternative design. Straight Pedal Shafts The main goal of re-designing the Pedal-Box of the Haynes Roadster, as an alternative of the books Pedal-Box, was to use leftovers of tubes from the chassis building. Making the Pedal-Box is, according to the book, the last stage of the chassis builing. A that stage, the workshop is full of 25mm square section tubes bits, as well as 19mm (20mm in my case) round section tubes if you made the back panel as in the book. The books pedals shafts could be cut by hand, but I guess with a very poor result, so it looks like most of the builders choose to order them laser cut, which is an extra cost I wanted to avoid. Same problem with the pivot tubes: according to the book, they should be 28mm diameter with 3mm walls, and this dimension is not used anywhere else in the car. If you dont have any scrap of that, it is a shame to buy a full length of tube for cutting only 3 x 30mm long pieces. So the idea was to make the pedal shafts from 25mm square section tubes, and the pivot tubes from 20mm round section tubes, in order to keep the cost of the Pedal-Box as low as possible. Making the pedal shafts from straight tubes rather than from 3 and 5mm plates implies that you can not chose the shape: the pedal shafts will be straight. This gives a single-seater PedalBoxs look (without the brake bias balance bar for dual master-cylinder use though, but the brake pedal could be easily adapted to use one if you wanted). This single-seater like Pedal-Box is also very well adapted to the drivers position in the Roadster, which is closer to a single-seater than to a saloon car. Of course, I started the design from the books Pedal-Box, and I tried to keep the new one as close as possible to the original one. This alternative Pedal-Box is just an adaptation of the books PedalBox to straight shaft pedals, and not a completely new design that would have required engineering skills I dont have. So I respected pedal ratios, pivot point heights, lengths, and so on.

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

First because I realized that the stoke of the clutch pedal would be shorter with the straight shaft than with the books pedal, I decided to make brackets that will allow to get a longer stroke if needed.

Books clutch pedal in normal position

Straight shaft clutch pedal in normal position

Books clutch pedal max. stroke

Straight shaft clutch pedal max. stroke

This was achieved by moving the pivot point forward, but keeping the original pivot point as well: the hole the closest to the back plate keeps the same pivot point as the books Pedal-Box, and the hole the further to the front keeps the position of the books pedal foot pad when leaning 20 forward, in order to keep at least the same max. stroke. The distance between these 2 holes is 26mm, so in between I had room to add an intermediate hole which gives an extra set-up option.

The stroke was not an issue for the brake and accelerator pedals, but I kept the same hole pattern for the 3 pairs of brackets. The result is a fully adjustable Pedal-Box: you can find the ideal pedal positions combination that suits your driving style or needs.

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

Clevis and Cable attach points The other adaptation I had to do concerns the attach points of clevis and cables on the pedal shafts. A plate pedal just needs a hole in it to fit cables/clevis with a short bolt, but a with tubular pedal, it is different. As the attach point is inside the tube, we will need to remove part of the back face of the tube to allow the cables/clevis to move freely when the pedal moves. Top-hat bushes The book says to use a 30mm long pivot tube with a simple cylindrical bush inside, which makes the edges of the steel tube being in direct contact with the steel brackets. It doesnt sound the best to me, so I opted for top-hat bushes (bushes with flange), in order to get a soft and sliding material between the tube and the brackets. For my built, I didnt find bushes of the right dimension (except at a very prohibitive price!), and I had to make them myself, cutting, drilling and carving them into a PTFE rod. But if you have the right sources, you can find the right bushes (I know some nylon ones exists with these dimensions) this will be time saving for sure... and nicer result!

Forward Stops The other elements I havent kept are the forward stop plates of the books Pedal-Box. I dont find them particularly nice... So, having a 25mm wide face in the front of each pedal shaft, I thought I could just weld an M6 nut on it, in order to use an M6 bolt and a lock-nut as forward stops. Im quite happy with the result as it does not only stop the pedals from moving forward, but it also allows to adjust the angle of the pedal quite accurately. Also, for the brake pedal, it avoids to drill another hole in the Roadsters floor as the books says to do.

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

BRAKE AND CLUTCH PEDAL PAD

R=12.5 Curve Radius =127 50 Angle = 45 Bent ACCELERATOR PEDAL PAD

100

Flat

R=12.5

35 Curve Radius =127 Angle = 53 Bent

117

Flat

BRAKE 6

BRAKE

View A

84 97.8

238

View A

234

150

R=10.5

137

Diam 8

21

25

Diam 20

10

31 41 20 35 31 R=10.5
M6 nut M6 nut

4 25

10 25 Remove
Weld with 1mm gap Round section Diam 20 x 2 wall tube L=25mm

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

CLUTCH 6

CLUTCH

View A

84

97.8

View A

234

137

150 Diam 20
20

20 R=10,5
M6 nut M6 nut

10 Diam 6

38 48 24 10 21
Weld with 1mm gap Round section Diam 20 x 2 wall tube L=25mm

25

25

ACCELERATOR 6

ACCELERATOR

View A

84 101.8

View A

234

Diam 20 150

20

20

133

R=10,5 10 Diam 8 29 14 21 55 69

M6 nut

M6 nut

25

25

Weld with 1mm gap Round section Diam 20 x 2 wall tube L=25mm

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

Brake Pedal Equipment

Clutch Pedal Equipment

Padal Top Hat Bush Dimensions

Padal Top Hat Bush Dimensions

20mm

20mm

2mm
12mm
8mm

2mm
12mm
8mm

16mm

16mm

Front Stop Bolt

Front Stop Bolt

M6 Lock-Nut Clevis Assembly

M6 Lock-Nut

Clutch Cable Bolt Assembly (To Fit Ford Capri Clutch Cable)

Welded M6 nut

Welded M6 nut

M6 x 35 Bolt

M8 x 40 bolt (25mm non-threaded)

M8 Nylock Nut

M6 x 35 Bolt

M6 x 40 bolt (25mm non-threaded)

M6 Nylock Nut

Clevis (8mm diam Axis)

M8 Washers

M6 Washers

Accelerator Pedal Equipment

Padal Top Hat Bush Dimensions

20mm

2mm
12mm
8mm

16mm

Front Stop Bolt

M6 Lock-Nut Clevis Assembly (the throttle cable will have t be adapted to the clevis)

Welded M6 nut

M6 x 35 Bolt

M8 x 40 bolt (25mm non-threaded)

M8 Nylock Nut

Clevis (8mm diam Axis)

M8 Washers

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

BACK PLATE

29

70 134

70 268

70

29

Diam.8

Diam.8

Diam.8

Diam.8

Diam.8

Diam.8

150 49 170 Ford Sierra master-cylinder only (diam 41mm) 49 125 Push-rod axis 90 Diam.16 Diam.16

PLATE H1

27 If CP16 is 1mm thick

250 29 If CP16 is 3mm thick

PLATE V1

22

250

PLATE H2

250 Diam.8 50 Diam.8 Diam.8 Diam.8

40

55

60

55

40

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

30 20

15 R=15

R=15

13

13

Diam 8 69 CLUTCH PEDAL BRACKET

23

105

19

15 R=15 30 BRAKE PEDAL BRACKET 13 13 Diam 8

80

15 R=15

R=15

13

13

Diam 8

88

ACCELERATOR PEDAL BRACKET

21

114

21

Distance between 2 brackets will depend of the thickness of the bushes flange. On my pedal box, this distance was 31mm (25mm pedal + 2x3mm flanges)

81 60 Plate H1 Plate V1 9 18 9

49

85

85

49

Plate H2

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

16 Round section Diam 20 x 2 wall tube

16

20

20

Back Plate

Plate H1 (27 or 29)

Plate V1 77 71 84 Diam.8 Diam.8 Diam.8

Diam.8

Plate H2

49

85

85

49

Back Plate

Round section Diam 20 x 2 wall tube

70 84 13 13

25

77

13

13 81

Plate H1 Plate V1 25 71 13 13 18

60

27 or 29

53

Plate H2

All 1:1 scaled drawing available in PDF and SVG formats on request at: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

Rear Stop Bolts Installation

Brake Pedal Installation

M8 x 60 Bolts (completely threaded)

M8 Washers

M8 Nuts

M8 Nylock Nut

M8 Washers

M8 x 50 Bolts (35mm non-threaded)

Clutch Pedal Installation

Accelerator Pedal Installation

M8 Washers

M8 x 50 Bolts (35mm non-threaded)

M8 x 50 Bolts (35mm non-threaded)

M8 Washers

M8 Nylock Nut

M8 Nylock Nut

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 France License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/fr/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 444 Castro Street, Suite 900, Mountain View, California, 94041, USA.

For any information regarding this work, please send me an email: sylvain.3design@gmail.com

Plan for your brake lines now!

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