Relays With Arduino - Turning On The Lights

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...
http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics...
Hobby Robotics
Using Relays with Arduino Turning on the Lights
April 7, 2008 at 8:17 pm Filed under Arduino, Circuit Warning!!! This project deals with AC electricity which is dangerous if you dont know how to treat it safely. You must treat electricity with caution. There are many books and websites about electrical safety procedures and if youre not sure how to be safe you should read that information. The most basic advice I can give is always assume any exposed wires are live and touching them will hurt a lot at best and kill at worst. Microcontrollers are good at controlling small devices, but frequently we DIY-ers want to use them to control things that arent so micro. In this post Ill talk about how to turn on household lights with the Arduino microcontroller. Actually this technique isnt limited to lights, it works for anything that gets plugged into the wall like a table saw or a small rail gun. The rst thing you need is a cheap extension core that you are willing to cut in half. After cutting and stripping the wires you need to solder in a relay. A relay is just like a light switch only instead of using your nger to ip the switch you use a small amount of voltage. Any 5 or 12 volt relay would work, but I already had some OJE-SH-105DM relays sitting around. These relays handle 5Amps at 240V AC. This means they can safely handle 5 Amps at 120V like you nd in the US power grid. To get a feel for how much power that is I used Ohms Law which states amps*volts=power or in our case 5A * 120V yields 600 watts. Thats enough wattage for me, but if you want to blow up the moon with a giant laser then you just need to use a bigger relay. I spliced the relay into the black wire on my power cord. For safety reasons you must splice the relay into the live wire. The standard coloring convention is that the black wire is live and the white wire is neutral. If
1 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
you splice the relay into the wrong wire even when the relay is o the light would still have power to it and you could get electrocuted. I used a DMM to verify which wires were active, neutral, and ground. You can see the schematic for details. Once the relay is wired into the cable I veried that when I applied the trigger voltage (+5V for my 105DM) to the relay that I could hear it ip positions and also veried it was acting as a switch for the extension cord by using my trusty sidekick Mr. DMM again. At this point I knew everything was working as expected so I nished wiring the extension cord together and wrapped it with electrical tape in a safe manor. This needs to be done before you ever plug the extension cord into the wall. Remember you are working with 120V of AC power which is dangerous if not handled properly. If you arent sure that youre being safe then you should nd one of the many other websites or books dealing with AC wiring safety. Sorry for sounding like your mother, but I want to make it clear that if you mess this up and shock yourself or burn down your house its not my fault. At this point you have a magical extension cord that can power things on and o simply by applying voltage to the relay. Ok maybe its not so magical. Apply voltage to the cable seems to be more work than just plugging it in, but trust me in a little while it will be awesome! Test it with your light bulb and a power source to make sure everything is working. The last step and the one that makes this project useful is getting the microcontroller to control this relay. To do that you can use the following circuit. Most motors and relays shouldnt be connected directly to a microcontroller because they are inductive and require more current that a microcontroller can safely supply. If you are using a low current 5 volt relay you may be able avoid this circuit (youd still need to clamp the relay with a diode), but using this circuit should work ne with these small relays so if in doubt use this circuit. In this circuit the transistor acts as a switch and it allows you to turn on the relay. This circuit works for relays using 5, 9, or 12 volts (the common trigger voltages for relays). I picked a 5 volt relay because that lets me use the Arduino boards 5V volt output thus eliminating the need for another power source. You also need to protect the microprocessor from back EMF current
2 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
and that is what the diode is doing. The cost to build the circuit below should be under $15 dollars and half of that is for a cheap extension cord. RadioShack or online electronic stores will have all the other components.
3 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
The code to run this was amazingly simple since the transistor and relay make turning on the extension cord as simple as turning on or o an LED. Here is a program that lets you toggle on and o the relay with the space bar.
// Maurice Ribble // 4-6-2008 // http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics // This code just lets you turn a digital out pin on and off. // all that is needed to verify a relay curcuit is working. // Press the space bar to toggle the relay on and off. #define RELAY_PIN 3 void setup() { pinMode(RELAY_PIN, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); // open serial Serial.println("Press the spacebar to toggle relay on/off"); } void loop() { static int relayVal = 0; int cmd; while (Serial.available() > 0) { cmd = Serial.read(); switch (cmd) { case ' ': { relayVal ^= 1; // xor current value with 1 (causes value to toggle) That's
4 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03

if (relayVal) Serial.println("Relay on"); else Serial.println("Relay off"); break;
} default: { Serial.println("Press the spacebar to toggle relay on/off"); } } if (relayVal) digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, HIGH); else digitalWrite(RELAY_PIN, LOW); } }
Credits Im not sure who designed this circuit diagram, but I found it referenced on the Arduino website and it was very useful while designing my relay circuit. I would like thank Oracle, spied and the others who helped me make this a better and safer article. Permalink
90 Comments
1. sanspot said, June 4, 2008 @ 6:36 am HI! i found out this tutorial very interestin.problem is in the codeit does not work.When i compile it says that in the void loop function &gt was not declared in this scopeany idea why? Id really like to make this work! Thanks 2. Glacial Wanderer said, June 4, 2008 @ 7:34 am For some reason when I pasted the code into this some of the code was corrupted. It should be xed now. You could also get the code from this link which is the le I used when testing this. http://www.glacialwanderer.com/_blog/blog2008/04_April
5 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
/relay.pde 3. sanspot said, June 4, 2008 @ 9:38 am thanks for the link, i saw it after i posted but the problem remains the samewhen i plug arduino in the usb the light bulb suddenly turn on, when it should be o untill i tell arduino to turn it on right? I am wondering if the problem is in the circuit.it is the same of your, expect for one thingyou connect on the breadboard from the bulb three wires, two from the relay(green wires) and another, that i dont understand were is it from( the black one). I have only the two wires from the relay. i would post a photo if i could. 4. sanspot said, June 4, 2008 @ 9:41 am in fact i got two wires from the bulb: one goes to the relay one on the plug of the wall.Then from the plug the remaining wire goes in the relaythen from the relay the 5 volt wires are plugged in the breadbord 5. Glacial Wanderer said, June 4, 2008 @ 5:31 pm The 3 wires going into the relay are +5V, pin3(signal), and ground to the grounding wire. I suspect your problem is with the circuit some how. You can test the relay without an Arduino (thus eliminating the software complication). All you need to do take the signal wire (its currently connected to pin 3), and put that to +5V to turn on the relay and GND to turn o the relay. You should hear the relay ip on and o. If that doesnt work then adjust your relay circuit until that works. Once thats working you can connect the arduino again and see if the software half is working. 6. sanspot said, June 5, 2008 @ 1:17 am I now understand what that black wire isbut I put a another wire that goes from the 220V plug to the gnd on the bread board ( as your circuit, in which you have the two green wires of the relay and the black one that comes from the blue wire on the plug). In both cases ( with and without the black wire ) the relay works if i
6 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
conect it to a batteryeven when connected to the Arduinothe problem is that instead of being o waiting for Arduino to turn on it is always onthe relay just dont wait for arduino to turn on the bulbI dont understand where the problem is 7. Glacial Wanderer said, June 5, 2008 @ 5:52 am So it sounds like youve narrowed it down to the arduino software. As you can see the program is very simple. Have you tried running the Blink example program? http://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/Blink Maybe you arent loading the program properly or something. Once youve got an LED blinking you can change the blink program to use pin 3 and it should blink your lightbulb. You could also use a DMM and check the voltage of pin 3 with the current program. Id then start modifying to its simplest state so it would set pin 3 high to verify that turns on the ligth bulb, and recompile it with pin 3 low to see that turns o the lightbulb. My best guess right now is that the program isnt getting loaded correctly. Once youve got those simple versions working make sure you remember that you need to make a serial connection before the spacebar will toggle the light on and o (but it should be defaulting to o). 8. atomriot said, September 12, 2008 @ 8:46 am I rst have to say Nicely done. This was exactly what I was looking for! I have implemented this layout for a project for work. I am in much the same book as you where I am a software guy tinkering in the world of electronics. My implementation uses 3 of your circuits and i have 2 of them working just ne but the third will not throw the relay. When I hook up the DMM I see the 5v on the pin from the Arduino, and I see around .7v on the base pin of the 2N2222. and when I check the collector pin, it is around 3.23v when its switched. I cannot gure out what is not working. I have changed out the 2N2222 and tested resistance in the 1K resistor and veried the diode isnt passing back current, and I dont see any crossover on the soldering and I can manually ip the relay. I am just not sure what it is doing though to get the 3.23V on the collector. Tonight I am going to try and replace everything 1 by 1 but as I said it all tests out individually. Any ideas?
7 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
9. Glacial Wanderer said, September 12, 2008 @ 10:28 am Are you using the same pin on the Arduino to test all 3 of your circuits? If youre using a circuit board and there is ux on it, you might want to try washing that o with alcohol. Then triple check for shorts. If none of those are the problem Id try replacing each component like you planned on doing. 10. atomriot said, September 12, 2008 @ 11:49 am Yes, same pin for testing. and i tested all three on three dierent pins. I will have to give the alcohol thing a try but I will most likely try new components on a dierent part of the board with clean new solders. Thanks for the input! I will post back after i try it. 11. atomriot said, September 13, 2008 @ 12:43 pm Ok, I dont get it. I removed all the components and tried them on a breadboard and it worked just ne. I moved them to 2 dierent places on my circuit board and it does the 3.23v thing when active. I have tried cleaning it as you said but i see no dierence and the other 2 sets of this circuit work ne. I am lost on this one. Thanks again for your input though! 12. atomriot said, September 14, 2008 @ 8:48 pm well, I know I implied defeat before but I am stubborn headed I guess. After trying 4 more 2N2222s since everything else seemed to test out, i all but gave up on soldering and started making it on the breadboard again with all new parts. when i tested iti got the 3 volt thing again and the relay wouldnt kick. then i though about it and wondered what the little transistor transistor would do if I had it backwards. I switched it around and then it worked so the batch of transistors i got from radio shack were labeled backwards and that is what has been causing all of this frustration. so now on my board i have 2 facing one way and one facing another but the orientation of the diodes and ground wires are still the same.
8 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
thanks again for your input, and sorry to have ooded your post:) 13. Roland said, January 26, 2009 @ 10:14 pm I am currently using reed relays connected directly to the IO pins of my Arduino Diecimila. See elexp.com, part#22RD-5. Coil is 5v, 500 ohm. Thats only 10mA! Easily within specs. Cheap too, $1.10 each for 10 or more. 14. joe said, February 13, 2009 @ 12:35 pm Thats not Ohms law youre stating 15. Bryan Johns said, April 1, 2009 @ 1:20 pm How would one wire up a 12v relay instead of the 5v one you used? Basically Im a little confused about using 5v (arduino) and 12v in the same circuit. 16. Maurice Ribble said, April 1, 2009 @ 4:13 pm I believe the circuit would be the same as above. You just need to make sure your 2n2222 transistor and diode support 12+ volts. Then replace the 5V power supply with a 12V power supply. 17. Alan Wend said, May 27, 2009 @ 1:01 am Im not a EE but Im pretty sure you are not supposed to make assumptions about which prong of the power cord is hot and which is ground. You should use a double-pole relay and interrupt both wires. Thanks for doing this. Im going to set up an Arduiono as a thermostat to run my swamp cooler. Most swapmp coolers have separate controls for the pump and the fan, so there are opportunities to save energy and water by running just the fan if the outside temp is already cool enough. Also, if you have temp sensors outside, inside the house, and at one of the vents, you can gure out the humidity. Is there some kind of little display panel that would t in the Ardiouno box?
9 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
18. Maurice Ribble said, May 27, 2009 @ 5:22 am That sounds like a neat project! Im not sure what display you are using, but Ive used this one and it works well. http://www.sparkfun.com /commerce/product_info.php?products_id=461 There is a standard so I think it is ok to to use a single pole relay. Ive looked at some lamp switches and they are single pole. I dont see any problems with a double pole relay as long as you have a 3 prong plug with the separate ground. 19. Hobby Robotics DIY Outdoor Time-Lapse Photography
said,
June 13, 2009 @ 7:38 pm [...] The basic premise is to run an Arduino as a timer and once an hour it turns on a relay. The reason for the relay is minimize power usage while the Arduino is running as a timer. When the relay is powered up the servo and camera also get turned on. Then the Arduino uses a servo to turn on the camera and take a picture. A 5 volt regulator is used to make sure the system could provide enough current to the servo and camera. After seeing how little current my camera draws, I realized I could have used the 5 volt regulator on the Ardunio board, but the regulator is cheap so there is no harm in using it like I did. You want to make sure the coil on the 5 volt relay you choose uses less than 40 mA or you will exceed the max current draw from an Arduino pin which could damage the Arduino after extended use. If you want to use a relay with a greater than 40 mA current draw you should use a circuit like I described in this article. [...] 20. Steve said, June 16, 2009 @ 4:02 am Heres a device that might simplify things. http://www.powerswitchtail.com 21. peter said, June 23, 2009 @ 9:07 pm @steve: patent pending, eh? Hows that search for prior art going?
10 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
22. matto said, July 1, 2009 @ 1:09 pm Im loving this tutorial.. its something that everyone whos into arduino stu should know. Are there any considerations / modications you can suggest for applying this to a British power supply (240v)? Thanks 23. Maurice Ribble said, July 6, 2009 @ 8:46 am The main thing that would change is making sure the relay you choose supports 240 volts at the current you want. The other thing to consider is the British probably use dierent colors for their wires. You want to make sure you put the relay on the active wire. If you dont know the color for the active wire Im sure google can help out. 24. Zashkaser said, August 5, 2009 @ 11:23 am I wanted to ask, is there any chance for a modied version of the directory listing script, with an iphone-stylish like design? 25. Maurice Ribble said, August 5, 2009 @ 2:49 pm Zashkaser, Im not sure what you mean by directory listing script. Maybe you mean code? Anyways I dont plan to do any modications to this for the iphone since I dont have one or plan to get one. Perhaps someone else will. 26. Ricardo Carvalho said, September 3, 2009 @ 4:14 am hey guys, Ive got a few questions and was wondering you you could help: 1. The relay that you mention for the tutorial: OJE-SH-105DM,095 tolerates voltage up to 240V, meaning this would be OK for UK mains right? What does the term contact rating mean?
11 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
2. Do relays normally have a maximum restriction and not a minimum restriction? 3. You mention that your circuit produces 600w (5*120V), so us here in Europe would produce 1200w, correct? What relation does this have with the wattage of the light bulb we use? 4. If I want to have more than 1 light bulb, do I need to have one relay for each one? 5. I would like to have my lights fade in and out as it they were pulsating like a heart beat, what type of light bulb would be best suited for this? (using the arduino of course) Thanks in advance for your help!! ric 27. Ricardo Carvalho said, September 3, 2009 @ 4:32 am I found this UK company that sells all sorts of dierent relays which I presume work at 5A @ 240VAC but there are some characteristics that Im still not quite understanding: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll > Coil Voltage? Does it have to be exactly the same as the arduino board? (5V) > Control On / Control O? How does this aect my circuit? Do I need to worry about this? > Coil Current? Why is this dierent from the Current discribed in the Contact Rating? Of these ones from the list which is the best suited for using with arduino? again thanks for your help!!! 28. Maurice Ribble said, September 3, 2009 @ 6:04 am 1) Yes, 240V means it should work in the UK. 3) Yes, it should support 1200W on 240V. In releation to a light bulb this means you could drive 12 100W light bulbs with a single relay.
12 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
4) You can run multiple light bulbs from a single relay, but they will all go on and o at the same time. If you want to control each lightbulb independently. If you need to control lots of Lights independently look into shift out registers which let you expand the number of outputs supported by a microcontroller. 5) You cant use orescent bulbs when dimming. And incandescent bulb should work. You could either do dimming with pulse width modulation or additional hardware to control voltage. If you go with PWM make sure the relay is fast enough (might need solid state). Also the relay will make a lot of noise and you need to calculate its life span. You might want to consider hacking a light dimmer switch. I dont know what the best answer is here. Id recommend researching this and doing some small experiments. Most any relay that is driven by 5V input and supports your required amps is ne if you arent doing light dimming. With light dimming things get more complicated and you will need to gure that out. 29. Jake said, October 2, 2009 @ 7:16 pm PDF of the circuit from Arduino: http://www.arduino.cc/playground /uploads/Learning/relays.pdf 30. raziiq said, December 24, 2009 @ 1:14 am Hi there. I am trying to build the same project, but i am using a SSR instead of simple relays, so i think i dont need Transistor, right? 31. Maurice Ribble said, December 27, 2009 @ 10:03 pm Raziiq, that is correct. 32. Vinz said, January 22, 2010 @ 11:03 am Hi, I read these posts but I still have a doubt. In my house I already have a relay based light switching system. I mean,
13 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
I have push buttons on the wall, connected to a nder 220vots relay, connected to a 220volt lamp (consider about 60-80w in the worst case). I push teh button on the wall one time and the light turns on, I push teh button on the wall another time and the light turns o. Simple, isnt it? Ive already put other puch buttons in parallel to the existing relay and everyting works ne and I can switch the same lamp from dierent places in the house. Now Id like to put in parallel my beautiful Arduino and use it to switch the same lamp. I just have to put something (a transistor? another smaller relay?) in parallel to the existing relay and simulate the pushing of the button on the wall, giving to the 220v relay a 220v pulse to switch on/o. In other words, I just need to control a 220v relay from arduino, using the minimal electronic. I have to do this to many lamps and other appliances and I have to do it in a cheap but safe way, so no costly redoundant, unneeded components, but just the minimal right ones. Some of you gentle people would help me in solving this simple, basic electric problem? I thank you very much and Ime sure this is a common problem and the right solution would help many people Vinz 33. James Fowler said, February 17, 2010 @ 1:12 am I wont lie im a coder by no means lol i know basic electronics and i bought this for some inspiration but i fear i jumped in over my head with rocks in my pockets lol how would i go about having this exact same circuit but 2 or 3 dirent relay controls my problem isnt with the electronics my problem is with the code i want to be able to press 1 to toggle pin 12 on and o press 2 for 11 on o and press 3 for 10 on / o thats it lol but for the life of trying to play with the code i cant gure it out lol it certainly is no html 34. Maurice Ribble said, February 17, 2010 @ 6:46 am Vinz, your use case sounds like the exact circuit in the article. Is there something specic you have a question about? If not just use that
14 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
circuit. James, you just need to do something similar to what I did for the spacebar. I recommend checking out some of the tutorials here (http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage) to get an understanding of how the code works. If you spend time understanding a few simple examples Im sure you can write the code to do what you want. 35. James Fowler said, February 18, 2010 @ 1:15 am I solved my problem after much thought and a bit of help if anyone else is intrested #dene RELAY1 13 #dene RELAY2 12 void setup() { pinMode(RELAY1, OUTPUT); pinMode(RELAY2, OUTPUT); Serial.begin(9600); // open serial Serial.println(Press 1 or 2 to toggle relay on/o); } boolean relay1State = false; // Assume o to start with boolean relay2State = false; void loop() { static int relayVal = 0; int cmd; while (Serial.available() > 0) { cmd = Serial.read(); switch (cmd) { case 1: { relay1State = !relay1State; // If true make false if false make true digitalWrite(RELAY1, relay1State); break; } case 2: { relay2State = !relay2State; // If true make false if false make true digitalWrite(RELAY2, relay2State);
15 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
break; } default: { Serial.println(There are only 2 options Relay 1 or Relay 2); } } } } 36. Mark Crosbie said, April 27, 2010 @ 3:59 pm Hey really good tutorial and helpful comments from all, working on a project at college were we need to turn on lights individually through an arduino, perhaps a set of christmas lights! Probably have a lot more questions but for Robbie I was wondering did you put this code in the arduino software or did you put it in Flash CS4 Code actionscript? If not any tips on transferring it into ash? Thanks very much, Mark Crosbie, The Project Free Bird Team. http://www.theprojectfreebird.wordpress.com 37. Mark Crosbie said, April 28, 2010 @ 4:12 am Hey sorry, just noticed I said Robbie instead of James Fowler, although if anyone has any tips on my last post am all ears! Thanks 38. Maurice Ribble said, April 28, 2010 @ 7:15 am The code above is uploaded to the Arduino. If you want to control the lights with ash youll probably do that over serial (or if you want wireless use something like xbee). Youd need to write a ash app that does sends Arduino commands and then modify the Arduino code to process those commands. Im sure if you looked on an the Arduino site there would be tutorials on how to do this. Ive never used ash because the Adobe tools are closed source and too expensive for me. I have done this sort of interfacing with C, perl, hacking directing in xterm, and probably the easiest was processing.org.
16 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
39. Ciaran Mc Guirk said, April 28, 2010 @ 11:50 am hey guys, im a bit simple when it comes to electronic blueprints. was wondering if there was clearer pictures of wiring up the relay and what way the breadboard wiring works. sorry for the hassle. thanks a million, it would be appreciated 40. Ciaran Mc Guirk said, April 28, 2010 @ 11:52 am hey guys, im a bit simple when it comes to electronic blueprints. was wondering if there was clearer pictures of wiring up the relay and what way the breadboard wiring works. sorry for the hassle. thanks a million, it would be appreciated if you could get back asap 41. Phil said, May 14, 2010 @ 11:43 am I blow a breaker every time the relay switches on. 42. Maurice Ribble said, May 14, 2010 @ 11:52 am Ciaran, I dont have time to revisit this right now. Sorry. I bet with some googling you can ne what you want. Phil, that means your wiring for the lighbulb is wrong. You must be shorting ground to power. Double check your wiring to make sure there arent any shorts. 43. je said, August 17, 2010 @ 12:32 pm hey there ive used this example with some good results but just got completely stumped when i tried to wire up 5 circuits and one by one all my relays seem to be stuck on now would i need more than the 5v coming o the arduino to get this working? i still hear the relays clicking, but they are always on does that mean they got too much current? also, if you wire several circuits such that they are all drawing from the same power, is the circuit closest too the power receiving more current than the others (whatever relay i put there sounds dierent) any help you could give me would be great thanks
17 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
44. Maurice Ribble said, August 17, 2010 @ 1:05 pm Je, do you have 5 transistors and 5 pins coming from the Arduino so you have one pin to control each relay? Take a look at the spec for your relay and gure out how much current the coil takes. It might be something like 100 mA. So 5 relays would be 500 mA which might mean you need an external 5V power supply to get enough current. Just to make sure the software and wiring is correct try disconnecting 4 of the relays to verify a single one still works with the wiring and software changes. 45. je said, August 17, 2010 @ 2:24 pm too clarify, whichever relay is connected to digitalPin 0 is louder than the others but on the software end Im sending osc: /*/digitalWrite $1 so, shouldnt all the outs act the same? 46. je said, August 17, 2010 @ 2:29 pm I have 5 transistors, and 5 relays (your circuit 5 times) when i unhook all of them, and just try one the relays click (so long as i use digitalOut 0), but are stuck on could I have killed the relay with too little current? also, if i am toggling all the outs, I should be able to hook up any out and get the same results right? does this sound like a software problem also? 47. je said, August 17, 2010 @ 2:44 pm if the nominal current is 20mA, then Im looking at 100mA total? and do i also need to consider that each relays coil resistance is 250 ohms?
18 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
48. Maurice Ribble said, August 19, 2010 @ 7:52 am Je, I dont understand most of your questions. Could you try restating them in complete thoughts? To answer the ones I do understand. If your circuit is similar to mine you dont need to worry about the ohms (Id suggest reading about ohms law to understand why). 100 mA is correct if each relay is 20 mA and you have 5. 49. Je said, August 19, 2010 @ 5:37 pm sorry for the confusioni bought an external regulated 5vdc power souce (1000mA), so when it comes the only connection to the arduino will be the digital outs- right? hows does external power work in terms of grounding the dc circuit? do i still need use the ground on the arduino as well? as far as weirdness i found when trouble shooting, i found the digital out 0 made all the relays click louder than the other digital outs so im looking at the software to x that right? (i guess i dont understand, if power is coming from 5v on the arduino, or an external power, whats being sent out a digital out?) and lastly, is it possible to damage a component by powering it with too little current? when i try to run only one (normally open) relay, its stuck closed but i should have enough current for one relay circuit, no problem? so the relay is damaged? does that make sense? do you have any recommendations for an electronics primer- the book i have (the art of electronics) is a bit too dense for me so far 50. Silenc3 said, August 26, 2010 @ 11:34 pm Hi, im kinda new to the arduino boards so im not really sure whats the right info to look for so i was hoping someone could answer my question? With arduino can you A. Program it to ip a switch from an external source that would input information that the arduino board would take
19 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
and interpret the data too turn the relay o and on? and B. If A is possible thru some means can i then just hook up the arduino board to a power source and use the external device to input o and on to whatever the board is hooked up too sorry if this sounds stupid i dont know much about this i only recently got into this 51. gamelan and electronics: relay | Je Aaron Bryant said, September 5, 2010 @ 7:06 pm [...] rst built a circuit as described on this post and it worked great. I soldered the circuit into a PCB and it was totally ne. The second worked [...] 52. lifeinla said, September 9, 2010 @ 12:22 pm complete noob here, but interested b4 i get to buying and trying this out to know if you can integrate a motion sensor into this a circuit like this so that the bulb is on as motion is detected. 53. Matthew A said, September 24, 2010 @ 2:28 am I, as well as the others in this room, am a noob and just have a quick question. I am trying to use a Ping))) as well as a servo in combination with an arduino board to convert my boring ole light switch into a cool state-of-the-art motion detector switch. As you may guess, I plan on using the Ping))) to detect motion up to a certain point and then turn the Servo to ip the switch on the light. However, my question comes in the..physics.., if you will, of the situation. When hooking up this project is it safe to connect the arduino directly to the power from the house in order to properly ip the power on and o? I understand the arduino can carry a maximum of 5V, but the house would be pushing 120V to light the light bulb. Will I blow the hardware no matter what or is there a way to hook up everything to were the power just goes passed the arduino and onto the light xture. Thanx for any help at all I am an inspired engineer and am excited to work with this here Arduino 54. Raphael Cerqueira said,
20 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
October 17, 2010 @ 10:46 pm I think you would like to see your work been used. http://arduitter.blogspot.com/2010/10/rf-links-reliable-messaging.html 55. newbie said, April 30, 2011 @ 2:14 pm Hello! I have a quick question (full disclosure I suck at all things circuit design, programmer here) Where is the white wire (+5v) going) on the breadboard ? Thank you in advance 56. Rian said, October 5, 2011 @ 2:30 am Hi, Your write up has helped me a lot with getting started in controlling things with Arduino. I do have a question about the circuit though that has me stumped. What modication would I have to make to have an LED come on while the relay is o and then have the LED go o when the relay is switched on without using an output pin from Arduino just to control it. Thanks, Rian 57. Maurice Ribble said, October 5, 2011 @ 6:37 am All you need is inverter o of pin3. There are logic buers that would do this or you could use a pnp transistor. 58. Rian said, October 6, 2011 @ 4:45 am
21 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
It has been 10+ years since I knew what the common electrical components do so Im struggling a bit. Is anyone able to elaborate on Maurices comment because while I know what these things are and basically what they do I have no idea how to intergrate them into the circuit. 59. Rian said, October 8, 2011 @ 3:05 am Ignore the above I worked it out. 60. kardamyla said, October 8, 2011 @ 2:29 pm Hi, Im and end user, I do not know anything about relays. I been trying for days to hook up a relay to turn on a light using an Axis camera with an I/O switch. This is the relay http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch /dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=105585863&uq=634536768231996536& DPU=submit This is the manual for the Axis 207 207W camera http://www.axis.com /les/manuals/um_207w_mw_33158_en_1208.pdf. the camera is 3,3 volt with a max 50ma, I dont even know if this is correct relay. Im willing to pay someone for help me make this work. Thank you 61. kardamyla said, October 8, 2011 @ 2:32 pm This is what I got from Axis Thank you for contacting Axis Communications. While I have not tested a specic relay to use. I would suggest looking at http://digikey.com as they have a large variety of relays. The relay should be 3.3volts and a max of 50ma. 62. kardamyla said, October 8, 2011 @ 2:36 pm This company makes a relay that works but they are asking 70 euro=110 dollars plus 30 shipping. For a relay that cost 5 dollars. I know they need to make a prot but this outrageous. 63. kardamyla said,
22 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
October 8, 2011 @ 2:37 pm Sorry this is the link http://www.ibou.fr/cameras/cameras.html 64. francis said, October 30, 2011 @ 8:41 am hey really i need the circuit fast and i dint understand urs (bcs im not good)so could just tell me how to connect i saw a 5 pin realy at the store urs is a 4pin so could ya just show to me i dint get the cicuit (the relay part) 65. fabienne said, November 21, 2011 @ 2:49 am Hi there, rst id like to say thanks so much for this super sweet & simple tutorial! setting up the circuit and understanding how things should theoretically work (as an inexperienced arduino tinkerer) was a piece of cake! theres only one aspect i am not getting or having problems with. This spacebar on o switch doesnt seem to be working for me. I tried to test out the circuit on an LED but connecting the ground of the LED directly to the ground on the breadboard and putting the relay inbetween the 5v and the positive lead of the LED. From what i understood this should work.. but then i realized that i dont understand how the arduino knows when i hit the spacebard. i realize its written in the code but in terms of hardware, how does the arduino recognize the keyboard on my computer? It seems like this ought to be a simple solution. also, any suggestions for how to use a PIR sensor in place of the spacebar? 66. fabienne said, November 21, 2011 @ 3:18 am Nevermind! simple rookie oversight since im so unfamiliar with the arduino application! thank you so much! still looking for any suggestions on integrating the PIR though !
23 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
67. Saw0 said, November 29, 2011 @ 9:57 pm fabienne, which PIR do you have, and how do you want it to act exactly? 68. David said, January 3, 2012 @ 10:16 am Thanks for a simple, eective tutorial. I do have one small problem though. Everything works, apart from when I connect the diode. I dont want to fry my arduino with yback voltage from the relay, but the circuit just doesnt work with it in there. The diode I have is a 1N4004G, not just 1N4004. Would that make a dierence? Thanks for anyones help. Ill be sure to post again if I manage to work it out. 69. Chez said, January 4, 2012 @ 10:59 pm David, you wouldnt fry the Arduino, only the transistor. What you might try (Im doing this now) is sinking the relay from the Arduino instead of the 2N2222. Most silicon devices can sink (provide connection to ground) more current than they can source (provide connection to VCC). Im running a relay of about the same size directly from the Arduino. So tie the relay to Arduino pin 3 but tell the code HIGH means o, LOW means on. Heres a push-button toggle program I modied from the button.ino example: // constants wont change. Theyre used here to // set pin numbers: const int buttonPin = 2; // the number of the pushbutton pin const int ledPin = 13; // the number of the LED pin // variables will change: int buttonState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status int relayState = 0; // relay is o at start void setup() { // initialize the LED pin as an output: pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT);
24 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
// initialize the pushbutton pin as an input: pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); } void loop(){ // read the state of the pushbutton value: buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); // check if the pushbutton is pressed. // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH: if (buttonState == HIGH) { // change relay state // see if relay is on or o: if (relayState == HIGH) { digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); relayState = 0; // if relay is on, turn it o // counterintuitive, but HIGH turns relay o } else { digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); relayState = 1; // if relay is o, turn it on // counterintuitive, but LOW turns relay on } delay(250); // debounce } } Give that a try? R//Chez 70. David said, January 5, 2012 @ 1:53 pm Hey R//Chez, Thanks for the tip! Ive changed the 240v wiring on the relay to [on as default], messed around with my code and made it work. (I wont mention the part when I forgot to turn the transistor around). Heres the code Im using to achieve a randomish strobe of the lamp every few seconds. Thanks for the help!
25 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
David //Blink_Randomly int ledPin = 3; // Transistor connected to digital pin 3 long randOn = 0; // Initialize a variable for the ON time long randO = 0; // Initialize a variable for the OFF time void setup() // run once, when the sketch starts { randomSeed (analogRead (0)); // randomize pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); // sets the digital pin as output } void loop() // run over and over again { randOn = random (30, 130); // generate ON time between 0.1 and 1.2 seconds randO = random (1000, 6000); // generate OFF time between 2 and 9 seconds digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); // sets the Transistor OFF delay(randO); // waits for a random time while OFF digitalWrite(ledPin, LOW); // sets the Transistor ON delay(randOn); // waits for a random time while ON } 71. David said, January 5, 2012 @ 1:55 pm Forgot to mention, I left the Transistor in, as a safeguard. Its cheaper to replace than an Uno. D 72. Light controller | Je's projects said, January 15, 2012 @ 5:24 pm [...] control circuit, not the sensing circuit, was based on http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics/?p=9. The dierence between my version and his is that I thought the transistor was unnecessary, so I [...] 73. Coee Maker Mod - (Baltimore) Harford Hackerspace
said,
January 23, 2012 @ 10:11 am
26 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
[...] wall cord and the power switch on the coee pot. The relay is controlled by his arduino. He used this tutorial as a guide. [Show as slideshow] Share [...] 74. Sources dinformation utilises Bon Matex said, February 15, 2012 @ 11:37 pm [...] http://www.glacialwanderer.com/hobbyrobotics/?p=9 [...] 75. Tim said, February 18, 2012 @ 8:57 pm Hello people, Thanks for the great tutorial, very easy to follow. But unlike Fabienne, who said: but then i realized that i dont understand how the arduino knows when i hit the spacebard. i realize its written in the code but in terms of hardware, how does the arduino recognize the keyboard on my computer? It seems like this ought to be a simple solution., I cant to overcome the simple rookie oversight. Could anyone help me out and explain to me how the keyboard function works? Many many thanks! Tim 76. Roombox Blog | Third functionality: Switching relays
using arduino said,

March 1, 2012 @ 10:08 am [...] ive managed to switch relays using my arduino kit. I found this circuit on the web and edited it to switch a couple of relays instead of [...] 77. Easiest/cheapest way to computerize and automate a
grow? said,
March 30, 2012 @ 10:57 pm [...] moisture sensors that can be connected to a computer? (1) Microcontroller + Relay = WIN http://www.glacialwanderer.com /hobbyrobotics/?p=9 (2) Plenty of OTC temp, and humidity sensors to choose from. Soil moisture should just be a [...]
27 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
78. Diego Aguilera said, May 21, 2012 @ 10:38 am NO and NC relays. First o, I dont want to scare anyone o from doing a project like this. This is just a caution. Relays come in dierent variations: normally open, normally closed, and CO (Change over). Depending on your project, depends on the relay you need to buy. For example, if you have a circuit that will constantly be on and o when the Arduino sends a voltage to it, you want a normally closed. If your light is normally o and turns on when the Arduino tells it to turn on, then buy a normally open. The reason for picking the correcnt relay is current. Because a relay will always have some internal resistance, you will have power loss in the relay (P = i*r). This loss is always in the form of heat. Normally closed relays are designed to be able to handle current being constantly supplied. If you dont account for this current, the relay could burn up. Not to say its going to catch re. It will most likely smoke and just never work again. But why risk it? Ive also used this same circuit with a relay from Sparkfun to turn my Christmas tree o/on for a few weeks. It worked just ne. Great write up! 79. Salvo's Blog said, June 8, 2012 @ 8:03 am Scheda rel / Relay Shield Realizzare una scheda rel abbastanza semplice (Immagini realizzate utilizzando fritzing) Necessario: 1 Prototyping board 1 Rel 5V DC (SRD-05VDC) 1 Diodo 1N4007 1 Resistenza da 1 k (io ho usato una da 465 e va bene lo stesso) 1 Transistor NPN (2 80. Cool Data Log images | The art of data acquisition said, June 21, 2012 @ 2:53 pm [...] Image by jmsaltzman First mockup of Arduino-controlled garden, here switching a relay attached to a submersible pump to automatically water two [...] 81. Arduino Garage Door Opener Pt 2 | The Hees said, July 27, 2012 @ 7:49 pm [...] done it even close to correctly. To do so, I used this Arduino sketch that this fellow had on his site, that allows you to control the relay using
28 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
the serial interface on the Arduino, by hitting the [...] 82. Mr.Mechatronics said, August 10, 2012 @ 5:59 am Hi there, This is more interesting question Speaking of Home automation/security: I have a relay which I will be using to bypass my existing switch(light) SPST Condition1: Ardruino will turn on the relay (let say PIN 13) stand alone, without communicating with the computer. Condition2: The output will trigger using its internal clock , let say 1st day :12:00 am up to 12:15am then switch on 12:30am-12:32.RANDOM time in RANDOM INTERVALup to 3:00am. Condition 3: Audrino will make a random combination in 7 daysbut limited only between 12:00 to 3:00am. (to fool the burglars that they are expectedhmmmm) I hope that this will also be helpful to othersnever mind the electric bill .security is PRICELESS! And please help me with the code.. A only know basic switching -ramdomized switching give me headache! TNX in advance 83. Taku said, August 21, 2012 @ 11:54 pm Hey there, very great project. I live in europe and since the color coding is dierent and can even dier from cable to cable could you please tell us exactly which wire you connected to what pin on the relay and also tell us which color is which on your particular cable. Is it black liveWire/phases ; green ground ; white neutral ??? And why does the green cable have two dierent greens with the one more cyan looking?? Shouldnt the green part be the same color if the cable was spliced ? Why is the black wire twisted together with the green one under the cap ? And on what pin did you connect the black and the green to the relay. I understand most of the stu but those are the things that confuse me. Also if I look at http://www.glacialwanderer.com/_blog/blog2008 /04_April/hb_relay1.jpg I can see 9 cables: 2 black cables going to the relay, 2 green cables
29 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
going to the relay, 2 green (more cyan looking) cables + 1 black cable under the cap, 2 white cables under a cap, So if Im counting correct thats 9 cables from a spliced wire that had 3 wires before being spliced. So if my math doesnt trick me 3+3 makes 6. Please explain. Are those the wires that would be going to the arduino ?? It would be really nice if you could answer my question so I could go on with my project. Thanks a lot. 84. Interruptor touch com Arduino Pro Mini said, August 30, 2012 @ 11:15 am [...] parte tcnica, usei isso para o rel, s troquei o transistor 2N2222 por um BC548 (tem funcionado bem). E o cdigo, usei o exemplo da [...] 85. more details said, September 14, 2012 @ 1:10 am Im really inspired along with your writing talents as smartly as with the layout on your blog. Is that this a paid subject or did you modify it your self? Either way keep up the excellent high quality writing, it is uncommon to peer a great weblog like this one these days.. 86. J5 said, November 8, 2012 @ 4:29 pm Great project! what does the diode do in this circuit and why do we need it? Also, what does the transistor do and why do we use it? 87. Derek Harrington said, November 16, 2012 @ 5:31 pm Both of these are for using the +5 volts to switch the relay. I think the ouput pins on Arduino are not a full +5V, but there is a constant 5V source on the board. This is not a pin though. So, Arduino pin 3 goes to the base of the transistor. Activating the base will let current ow through the collector to the emitter side. (top to bottom on the schematic). If you look at the 5V source at the top, it is linked to the relay and out the relay down to the transistor. So, there is always 5V at the relay, but
30 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
the transistor is keeping it from being grounded. Once pin 3 goes high, the transistor opens and the 5V source can run current to ground. Then the relay will be tripped. The 5V has to be able to get to ground. The diode only lets current ow one way. If it got to choose it would go the path of least resistance, so it may not go through the relay. The diode forces the current from the 5V source to go through the relay. 88. dZ. said, November 20, 2012 @ 12:54 pm quick nice and easy thank you ! my 0.1 prototype works like a charm on an arduino ethernet connected to a cheap wi router. 0.2 will use v usb to connect a classic arduino to the router through usb, ) next will use a ATtiny84 in place of the arduino see ya ! 89. Brad said, November 29, 2012 @ 3:13 pm HAHAHA yes!! thank you so much! its very simple, and straight forward. Up until now i have been making manual switches from motors that physically turn the dial or switch on anything that was 120v. That was taking a very long time, and using all my motors to turn the on / o switches. I kept thinking there has got to be a better way! Obviously i am new to this..but you made it so easy A relay hunh? what a beautiful thing. 90. jek said, December 28, 2012 @ 4:25 pm how about adding physical switch of the bulb..because it is essential to have a hardware part switch not only in the arduino. Does anybody can make it? RSS feed for comments on this post TrackBack URI
Leave a Comment
31 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03
Name E-mail URI
Submit Comment
CAPTCHA Code *
Search
Links
Forums Life is for the Living Store
Categories
Arduino Circuit CNC Photography Sensor Uncategorized
Archives
32 de 33 09-01-2013 19:03
August 2011 July 2011 March 2011 February 2011 January 2011 October 2010 September 2010 June 2010 April 2010 February 2010 December 2009 November 2009 August 2009 June 2009 March 2009 January 2009 December 2008 November 2008 October 2008 September 2008 August 2008 June 2008 May 2008 April 2008
Meta
Register Log in Entries RSS Comments RSS WordPress.org
Contact Info
Please feel free to email me with questions about an article, consulting work, product review requests or any other reason you have. ribblem@yahoo.com Design by Beccary and Weblogs.us XHTML CSS
33 de 33
09-01-2013 19:03

Relays With Arduino - Turning On The Lights

Caricato da

Informazioni sul documento

Descrizione originale:

Titolo originale

Copyright

Formati disponibili

Condividi questo documento

Condividi o incorpora il documento

Opzioni di condivisione

Hai trovato utile questo documento?

Questo contenuto è inappropriato?

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

Relays With Arduino - Turning On The Lights

Caricato da

Copyright:

Formati disponibili

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

using arduino said,

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Name E-mail URI

Hobby Robotics Using Relays with Arduino ...

Potrebbero piacerti anche