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es, I have built and flown a gyrocopter, which I consider no great accomplishment as many homebuild-
ers have successfully built and flown them long before and since I built mine. From the beginning this project presented a challenge to me, so I undertook to overcome it "from scratch". I'll have to admit that this is not the best way to begin a project, especially on an aircraft of this type on which a lot of valuable information can be obtained and the many sets of complete prints that can be purchased at a nominal cost. Judging from my own experience and from that of others that I have talked with on this subject, the savings will more than offset the purchase price, both financially and in the additional information you'll get from them. My copter is basically the same as a Bensen, but as you can see by the drawings I made many changes in the design of the frame. I used a different method for securing it, which I call the "block and bolt" method. This simplifies removing and replacing any structural members of the craft, allowing easy disassembly. There is no welding except for one weld on the nose wheel spindle and
two in the engine mount braces,
A & E experience or have never worked around aircraft, I strongly recommend that you build strictly according to your set of prints. I'd also like to stress a point, or rather points, which cannot be deviated from to any great degree without running into serious trouble. Of
course there is a tolerance to these points which will be called out in your set of prints and if you keep well within these you should have no problems. These critical points are blade track, blade alignment and the most important of all, Center of Gravity of the complete craft. Take it from me, don't experiment or play around with this CG outside of the given tolerances. Nor would it be wise to press your luck outside of the blade track and blade alignment
tolerances as either is easy enough
"H-l"
speed and turned into a 25 mph wind. I was literally snatched off
the ground and went upward and backwards, and came down upside down. For a few split seconds I suppose I had the largest rotary lawn mower in the world, but it was short lived. But the pain, the heartache and in; i red pride, and of course the work
to check and correct before you risk your neck. It is possible for alignment and track to change while in flight. One should be aware of how to detect it, and when this occurs, the proper procedure is to set your craft down immediately and take corrective action while you are able. As I said before, I began from
"scratch" except for my few years of knowledge and experience gained as an A & E mechanic. I progressed
the time. When I washed out my copter I had left my helmet in the
car until I made a "little run" and
the frame, as well as a choice of material used. Many things can be modified to your own desires provided you use good sound judgment
I had used the "trial and error" method in finding the CG and for rigging the controls. Let me make this clearit is not at all safe or sensible to use the "trial and error" method on anything as critical as the
CG location in this craft, or any
brought the blades up to proper rpm. But things were going so well that I thought I'd just chance it a little further. In the first place I should not even have thought of making Continued on Page 20
other craft for that matter. I knew it to be critical and felt sure that I had found it correctly, or was within
a degree or so of it. I made many test runs and kept my power to a
minimum. I'd jockey the craft off as sently as possible so as to get the "feel", which was very good experience in that way but it didn't prove a thing about the CG, as I was underpowered. I learned later that as the power and speed is increased it changes the whole situation. As a matter of fact, in my case it washed out the complete craft and just very nearly washed
me out with it. On this particular
Jim Higgins and his copter
Instrument detail
SPORT AVIATION 17
he should by all means rig his craft with conventional type controls. This is not at all difficult to accomplish nor do they add much weight to the
craft, but they do add much to the
anyone who has ever flown before. Even if one has never flown an aircraft but builds a gyrocopter, I think
machine is of the conventional type. The rudder controls are tied into the nose wheel steering which gives conventional control on the ground as
well as in the air. Also the nose wheel is equipped with a conventional type mechanical brake. By moving more weight forward of the main gear I
Control detail
Rotor blade
obtained more ground braking action. At the same time this keeps the craft from falling back on its tail when you get out of the seat after a flight. Elongation of the mounting
bolt holes can result from the jar this causes.
can fill you in on the details of registration limitations and restrictions. I found the FAA a very helpful organization for the homebuilder and have a tremendous job to do and have performed it well. We should cooperate with them to the limit
they were very cooperative. They
any kind of test run in a 25 mph wind. Even if I did, there would certainly not be much need for a ground run. tracking, but after my ordeal I decided that I would not go out for any test run at any time the wind exceeded 18 mph. Also in building my second copter I made certain of the correct CG location before I made the first test night. During the testing of the first craft I knew that I must have many problems, and after I clobbered it
A 25 mph wind is ideal for blade
The gyrocopter is not exactly a plaything, nor is it a week-end project. It is a true aircraft all its own and should be treated as such in
in I was definitely sure of it. So before starting on my second one I began corresponding with other build-
ers. It was through their help that I arrived at a safe CG and also corrected some of my other minor problems. The rotor controls on my second craft are of the conventional aircraft type. I feel that this is a "must"
Throughout the construction the proper safety factors must be born constantly in mind, as it is after all an aircraft. As I see it, one need not be an A & E mechanic to build a gyrocopter, but it helps. During the building of the craft it is advisable to contact A & E mechanics to give you a hand as well as provide information and inspection of it. Definitely contact the FAA at the very beginning of the project, for they
Matt has
a chain and sprocket stabilizer adjusting screw from a PT-19 to cure slight tail heaviness. Structure is all
Tom Henebry
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