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"H-I" My Gyrocopter

By James W. Higgins, EAA 7692

es, I have built and flown a gyrocopter, which I consider no great accomplishment as many homebuild-

in accordance with airworthy practices. However, if you do not have

ers have successfully built and flown them long before and since I built mine. From the beginning this project presented a challenge to me, so I undertook to overcome it "from scratch". I'll have to admit that this is not the best way to begin a project, especially on an aircraft of this type on which a lot of valuable information can be obtained and the many sets of complete prints that can be purchased at a nominal cost. Judging from my own experience and from that of others that I have talked with on this subject, the savings will more than offset the purchase price, both financially and in the additional information you'll get from them. My copter is basically the same as a Bensen, but as you can see by the drawings I made many changes in the design of the frame. I used a different method for securing it, which I call the "block and bolt" method. This simplifies removing and replacing any structural members of the craft, allowing easy disassembly. There is no welding except for one weld on the nose wheel spindle and
two in the engine mount braces,

A & E experience or have never worked around aircraft, I strongly recommend that you build strictly according to your set of prints. I'd also like to stress a point, or rather points, which cannot be deviated from to any great degree without running into serious trouble. Of

course there is a tolerance to these points which will be called out in your set of prints and if you keep well within these you should have no problems. These critical points are blade track, blade alignment and the most important of all, Center of Gravity of the complete craft. Take it from me, don't experiment or play around with this CG outside of the given tolerances. Nor would it be wise to press your luck outside of the blade track and blade alignment
tolerances as either is easy enough

"H-l"

speed and turned into a 25 mph wind. I was literally snatched off
the ground and went upward and backwards, and came down upside down. For a few split seconds I suppose I had the largest rotary lawn mower in the world, but it was short lived. But the pain, the heartache and in; i red pride, and of course the work

which are also bolted to the main


structure. There can be many variations in the design and structure of

to check and correct before you risk your neck. It is possible for alignment and track to change while in flight. One should be aware of how to detect it, and when this occurs, the proper procedure is to set your craft down immediately and take corrective action while you are able. As I said before, I began from
"scratch" except for my few years of knowledge and experience gained as an A & E mechanic. I progressed

of rebuilding the craft remained with


me for weeks and even months.

Another important lesson I learned was how very, very wise it is to


wear a crash helmet at all times while flying. Just to own one is not enough, as my wife reminded me at

the time. When I washed out my copter I had left my helmet in the
car until I made a "little run" and

the frame, as well as a choice of material used. Many things can be modified to your own desires provided you use good sound judgment

fine up to a pointand that point was one washed-out, clobbered-in


gyrocopter! My big mistake was that

I had used the "trial and error" method in finding the CG and for rigging the controls. Let me make this clearit is not at all safe or sensible to use the "trial and error" method on anything as critical as the
CG location in this craft, or any

brought the blades up to proper rpm. But things were going so well that I thought I'd just chance it a little further. In the first place I should not even have thought of making Continued on Page 20

other craft for that matter. I knew it to be critical and felt sure that I had found it correctly, or was within
a degree or so of it. I made many test runs and kept my power to a

minimum. I'd jockey the craft off as sently as possible so as to get the "feel", which was very good experience in that way but it didn't prove a thing about the CG, as I was underpowered. I learned later that as the power and speed is increased it changes the whole situation. As a matter of fact, in my case it washed out the complete craft and just very nearly washed
me out with it. On this particular
Jim Higgins and his copter

trial I had about 20 mph ground

Instrument detail
SPORT AVIATION 17

he should by all means rig his craft with conventional type controls. This is not at all difficult to accomplish nor do they add much weight to the
craft, but they do add much to the

anyone who has ever flown before. Even if one has never flown an aircraft but builds a gyrocopter, I think

because of the natural reaction of

stability and flexibility.

machine is of the conventional type. The rudder controls are tied into the nose wheel steering which gives conventional control on the ground as
well as in the air. Also the nose wheel is equipped with a conventional type mechanical brake. By moving more weight forward of the main gear I

The nose wheel steering on my

Control detail

Rotor blade

obtained more ground braking action. At the same time this keeps the craft from falling back on its tail when you get out of the seat after a flight. Elongation of the mounting
bolt holes can result from the jar this causes.

can fill you in on the details of registration limitations and restrictions. I found the FAA a very helpful organization for the homebuilder and have a tremendous job to do and have performed it well. We should cooperate with them to the limit
they were very cooperative. They

any kind of test run in a 25 mph wind. Even if I did, there would certainly not be much need for a ground run. tracking, but after my ordeal I decided that I would not go out for any test run at any time the wind exceeded 18 mph. Also in building my second copter I made certain of the correct CG location before I made the first test night. During the testing of the first craft I knew that I must have many problems, and after I clobbered it
A 25 mph wind is ideal for blade

all respects. I mean by this that it

The gyrocopter is not exactly a plaything, nor is it a week-end project. It is a true aircraft all its own and should be treated as such in

let's not be labeled as "Rotary Ralphs" or "Wing Wobbling Willies"!

I sincerely hope that my story has enlightened a few homebuilders


and undertake the building of a gyrocopter. It can be fun. Very important I suggest that you get your wife interested in the project too, for you'll need a good helper (sometimes even four hands aren't enough!). My wife Rosa played a very important part in my projectright now we're working on a helicopter. I also wish to express thanks to the Fort Worth, Texas Region of FAA for their kind attention and cooperation. And to Capt. Clem Tromblay my appreciation for the fine "PicTo-View" illustration of my copter which appears with this article. (Jim Higgins lives at 117 Meadow Drive, Burkburnett, Tex.)
who are about to accept the challenge

is not to be just "thrown together" in a matter of a short time. Even

with a complete set of blueprints

there is much careful planning to

in I was definitely sure of it. So before starting on my second one I began corresponding with other build-

ers. It was through their help that I arrived at a safe CG and also corrected some of my other minor problems. The rotor controls on my second craft are of the conventional aircraft type. I feel that this is a "must"

Throughout the construction the proper safety factors must be born constantly in mind, as it is after all an aircraft. As I see it, one need not be an A & E mechanic to build a gyrocopter, but it helps. During the building of the craft it is advisable to contact A & E mechanics to give you a hand as well as provide information and inspection of it. Definitely contact the FAA at the very beginning of the project, for they

do and many precautions to take.

METAL WINGED MINIPLANE


gear.
This example of the popular Miniplane design originated by the late Frank Smith is unusual in that it sports all-metal wings and a modified Cub landing
usual 100 hp mill, it performs well, cruising at 88 mph and topping 100. The landing gear has no shock absorbers but it has been found that when the 8:00 x 4 tires are given a pressure of 15 lbs/in., the landing and taxiing shocks are absorbed satisfactorily. Presently owned by W. G. Matthews of El Centro, Calif., the ship will fly hands-off . . . a testimony to the

Powered by a 65 hp Continental instead of the

builder's accurate workmanship and rigging.

put some shims under the upper engine mount pads to

Matt has

give the propeller a little downthrust, and has installed


"Contact!" yells Matt Matthews s an unidentified helper flips the prop on Matt's Miniplane. Moments later the little biplane was winging its way over California's costal

a chain and sprocket stabilizer adjusting screw from a PT-19 to cure slight tail heaviness. Structure is all

mountain range to its home base in the below sea level


Imperial Valley.
MAY 1960

metal except for the turtleback fairing strips which are


of wood. Weight empty is 603 Ibs.

Tom Henebry

20

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