Reviving Bangladeshi Handloom Industry through Adoption ...

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Sector Analysis
Issue: Jan-Feb , 2011

Reviving Bangladeshi Handloom Industry through Adoption and Diffusion Process

Mr. Abrar Ahmed Apu, Department of Textile Engineering, Daffodil International University

Abstract: This paper deals with Adoption and Diffusion Process in Handloom sector of Bangladesh. The Handloom Industry, the oldest and largest cottage-based industry, is struggling and thus weavers are leaving their holistic profession- weaving. Since several decades various policies and strategies have been implemented for the welfare of weavers, but they remain poor and vulnerable. Applying adoption and diffusion of innovations process is essential in Handloom technology to change the present scenario of the sector, because success came in most of the fields by the applying process including sociology, political science, civics, marketing, management, public health, communications, economics, education, and technology. Firstly, training of Bangladeshi Handloom trainers in India is important to fetch newly developed processes in own land. Indian Handloom technology is most advanced, easy to adopt and competitive in respect to quality, designs, aesthetic properties, and price in the world. Secondly, the concept of mutual adoption is considered as useful tool in improving local Handloom technology. Then, the concept of Mobile Training Centre- the School on Wheel can be implemented to diffuse fetched technology in the targeted weaver-groups, who are dispersed all over the country especially in the village areas. There exists various types of weavers in Bangladeshi Handloom sector, among them, Master weavers and cooperatives active participation in handloom societies is crucial to get better outcome of adoption and diffusion process. Keywords: Handloom Industry, Adoption and Diffusion Process, School on Wheel, Characteristics of Handloom Weavers, Mutual Adoption, Constraints for Adoption. ______________________________________________________________________________ Introduction: Handloom sector in Bangladesh consists of more than 0.505 million Handlooms and 1.0 million Handloom weavers. But only 0.3 million looms are active (59% of existed looms) and that provides around 620 million meters of fabric (about 40% total demand of the population) annually. About more than 1.5 million people are directly and indirectly involved for their livelihood. (http://www.bhb.gov.bd/; visited on 17th July10). Handloom industry is the biggest handicraft industry in our country; it is the second largest source of rural employment after agriculture (Ahmed, M.U 1999). The knowledge and skills needed for this sector transformed from their forefathers. Thus, the cottage-based industry has been build up by inheritance. Handloom fabric is more producer-driven than buyer-driven. An international experts study reveals that the technical skill of the weavers of Bangladesh is second to none in the world (i.e. Dhaka muslin products, the finest cotton fabric). Handloom products are best known for their eco-friendly nature. The world is solely concentrating on green technology, therefore green products and social business concept to save the struggling world, where Handloom technology could be best green technology to fulfill basic needs of human i.e., clothing. The Handloom sector has a great deal of potential for further value addition in the RMG sector for further meeting local needs of fabrics and expanding sales of its products directly in foreign countries. This sector is an important channel for balanced sustainable economic growth. (The Financial Express, dated on 5th Dec07 Giving Support to Handloom Sector). Handloom weavers and workers are generally poor. Vitality of Handloom Industry can lead to improvement in the earning of those people on a large scale who are at the fringes of social existence by alleviating their poverty. This sector can be a source of employment of hard-passed rural people, particularly. Since long the Handloom and its weaving Industry have been struggling; though the government and Non-government sectors have been providing supporting initiatives to the cottage-based industry. The objective of paper is to apply Adoption and Diffusion of Innovation Theory to active idle looms and bring back weavers and stakeholders of the industry. Literature Reviews: Handlooms have registered growth rates of fabrics production during the post-liberation period (1972/73- 86/87) well in excess of population growth and have remained the principal source of fabrics for consumption of Bangladesh over a long period of Bangladeshs history. The entire improvement, growth and structural adjustment have been achieved near-total absence of helpful public policies and programs. (Chowdhury, N 1989). At the time of independence over a thousand weavers societies were existed and now almost all of which are dormant due to lack of strategic vision from government to protect and promote this sector (Latif, M.A 1997). Weavers in our country dont get quality raw materials at right time and at right price (Ahmed, M.U 1999). The main problems regarding the diffusion of the improved Handloom techniques appear to have been lack of technological knowledge and skills as well as financial stringency of the weavers (Latif, M.A 1998). Handlooms receive the lowest Effective Rate of Protection (ERP) and among the three weaving sub-sectors power-looms receive the highest. The ERP is measured by value addition, i.e., returns to land, labor and capital (Ahmed, M.U and Islam, AFMM 1989 BIDS). Weavers are suffering from inadequate contemporary technology and scarcity of working capital, which are mandatory to maintain the smooth flow of production (ADB, 2002). Technical efficiency Handloom Industry of Bangladesh is only 41% and its technical efficiency might improve by increasing its male and female labor ratio and decreasing its hired/family labor ratio and labor/capital ratio

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Reviving Bangladeshi Handloom Industry through Adoption ...

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(Jaforullah, M 1997). All the researches on Handloom sector have sought different strategies for the support of Handlooms and its weavers. But the actual situation has not been changed as expected. In addition, day-to-day the heritage based crafts industry is destroying. Thus, it is utmost important to create proper initiative, which boosts power to the Handloom industry; symbol of our heritage and culture; to survive with its own potential without any fare of rivals-power loom and industrial looms. Lessons from History: Case-I: Biogas is an old technology invented by Alexandra Volta in 1776 in Com, Italy, but got momentum only after the fuel crisis in 1973. In Bangladesh, the first biogas plant was set up in the campus Bangladesh Agricultural University, Mymensingh, in 1972, but the plant did not last long due to leakage in the domes. In 1974, the Bangladesh Academy for Rural Development (BARD) constructed one biogas plant following the same design. As the construction costs were high, the technology did not have any attraction for the common people. In 1981, the government established a department named Environment Pollution Control Department (EPCD) through which they started a project on biogas. But did not last long due to lack of after-sale service and leakage in the gasholder. In the same way till 1988, several efforts and initiatives were taken by some NGOs like Danida, Brac, Grameen Bank, etc also failed. In 1989, one scientist of BCSIR received training on biogas technology from Biogas Research and Training Centre (BRTC), Chengdu, China. After completing training, he constructed one fixed-dome Chinese model biogas plant at BCSIR campus. Till today, the plant is working successfully and playing role model for constructing biogas plants in Bangladesh (M. A. Gofran: Status of biogas technology in Bangladesh, published in the Daily star on 2007-09-05). Case-II: By the turn of the century, the indigenous Handloom textile technology had almost completely died out in Sri Lanka. The initial step for its revival was taken in 1912 when U.B. Dolaphihilla got trained in India and transferred the Indian Handloom technology in Sri Lanka. Two more persons were trained in India by the Department of Education in 1917. In 1936 the Department of Commerce and Industries of Sri Lanka began to undertake the dissemination of the technology and by 1939 many Handloom textile centers had been established in the country. Now the industry is proving most successful cottage industry in the land (Islam, R 1992). Proper technology adoption through training abroad and effective diffusion, have brought the success in the respective field of Bangladesh (case-I) and Sri Lanka (case-II). Training for skill development is the most common mechanism to diffuse/disseminate newly adopted technology to artisans and other related stakeholders. Master craftsmen demonstration has also been tried with good results in Bangladesh and Sri Lanka (e.g., by BSCIC in Bangladesh and National Design Centre in Sri Lanka) (Islam, R 1992). Proposed Model for Handloom Technology: Adoption and Diffusion in Bangladesh Throughout the world, researchers have generated a number of improved technologies in Handloom sector. But, in Bangladesh the Handloom Technology remains rudimentary near about same as century ago. The Handloom weavers have only adopted these technologies to a limited extent. Understanding diffusion and adoption processes are crucial for Handloom technology improvement and to bring back the technology where it can survive without the fear of power and modern looms. Adoption process is, simply, the acceptation of innovation. Adoption is relevant to an individual. Rogers (2003) beaks down the adoption process into five (5) stages. There may exist more or fewer stages. The five stages are: Awareness Stage: At this stage an individual (in case of Handloom sector- weaver) becomes aware of some new ideas such as new designs. He knows about the existence of the idea, but he lacks details concerning it. For instance he may know the name and the design, but dont know about its repeat, drafting, lifting plan, etc. Interest Stage: At this stage an individual (weaver) wants more information about the new idea (design/method) or final product. He wants to know what types of design it is (design on plain loom, dobby or jacquard loom produced) and what its potentialities (is it suitable for his products he produces; will it help him in product diversification; etc). He may ask himself that this might help him increase incomes. Evaluation Stage: This is individual (say weaver) mental process where he makes a mental trial of the idea. He applies the information obtained in the earlier stages to his own situation. He will try to anticipated future situation and then decide whether or not to try it. Trial Stage: At this stage an individual try at small scale experimental use and in search of specific information like how will I do it; How much should I produce; How can I sue the best use of this; and so on. Adoption Stage: At this stage an individual decides to continue with the full use of the innovation. Diffusion is a process by which the spread of a new idea (innovation) from its source of innovation or creation to its ultimate users or adopters. Diffusion of innovation model is used to segment the target group according to the rate at which they adopt new ideas in a social system. Diffusion process occurs within society as a group process. When a new idea comes, all the people in a system (society) do not adopt at the same time. Some people adopt the new idea when they first introduced; others wait a certain time while some never adopt it. Therefore people in a society are categorized according to time of adoption into five (5) segments/categories: (Rogers E. M 2003) Innovators: The first people to adopt a new idea. They adopt ahead of other people. Early Adopters: They are second category of adopters and followers of innovators. Early Majority: They are third category of adopters and followers new idea after early adopters. Late Majority: They are fourth category of adopters who implement a new idea very late. Non-adopters/Laggards: They never adopt new idea.

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Figure: Distribution of Adopters categories within typical population (Roger, 1995)

Mass media play an important part in the early stages of the process by making people aware of the innovations. In case of Handloom sector, in Handloom society, personal contact with people who are known and trusted, such as opinion leaders/ adopters are more important as process progresses. Opinion leaders play an important role in diffusing innovations. They are the people who are capable, willing and in a position to help others with important problems. The position of opinion leader in a group depends on group norms and current problems facing the group. Messages about innovations will be most successful when the receiver trusts the source and shares similar attitudes towards the innovation. If opinion leaders and a large part of their followers do not adopt an innovation, then nobody does. If the community does not bless an innovation, then social pressure discourages innovative weavers to continue even if the activity in question is highly beneficial. No adoption appears to be very frequent. However, Handloom weavers in Bangladesh can be classified in four (4) categories (Latif, M.A, 1997) based on the nature of their involvement in the production process. They are-i. Master Weavers; ii)Independent Weavers; iii) Dadan Weavers; and iv) Workers or Karigar Weavers. Few characteristics of Master Weavers (MW): they are wealthiest among four types of weavers and able to maintain supply chain, as they know production, markets and market demand. They control karigars by employing them on daily basis wages, dadan weavers by giving credit to them and sometimes-independent weavers in other ways. Most of them are simply merchants and they supply inputs to individual weavers MW and Handloom Traders can be considered as Opinion leaders and/ or Adopters, because they full fill some of the characteristics of this group: as for examplesThey are supposed to be quick to adopt innovation (new technologies, new fabric designs, upgraded machines, etc); Having many contacts inside and out side of the society; Having relatively high income and standard of living; Make extensive use of expert- information (new ideas) and active participation in many events (fairs, exhibitions, workshops); Comparatively well educated and a positive attitude to change. The rate of adoption depends on the weavers perception on innovation and the changes this innovation requires in weavers Handloom management and the role of the weavers family. An innovation is usually adopted most rapidly if the innovation: has high relative advantage for the weavers; is compatible with their experiences and technologies; not complex and easy to implement; can be trusted on small scale. The independent weavers and the weavers in Co-operatives remain between early majority and late majority group of the diffusion and adoption of innovation. They resemble the following characteristics: they have lower socio-economic status they are skeptical about the success of innovation some of them never hold the position of opinion leaders. Diffusion Methods: To bring new invented technology on Handloom from other counties, training of trainers is must in abroad, namely in India, that is the largest manufacturer of handloom fabrics and the largest exporter of handloom products in the world. For adoption and diffusion of the technology, the concept of Mobile Training Centre- the school on Wheel can be implemented as the target groups (handloom weavers) are dispersed all over the country especially in the village areas. To reach them the concept of Mobile classroom is suitable. A bus is coverted to house with necessary instruments, parts, and training materials-is called Mobile Training School. It can be used to travel to the destination of weavers in the villages to instruct them, to discuss their problems and difficulties related to weaving. The concept of mutual adoption (Fullan & Pomfret 1977) is more useful in improving local Handloom technology. In mutual adoption local conditions are considered and modification of original materials and procedures (raw materials, designs, methods, technology, etc.) are altered accordingly. Because local trainers and professionals could make better assessments of the need and potentials of the innovations as they are well aware of local technologies in the Handloom sector. Conclusion: Several studies conducted pertaining to constraints for adoption of mechanization in different fields. Standardized constraints

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listed as economic, input, information, technical, psychological, and infrastructure constraints. Success came in most of the fields applying adoption and diffusion theory though those constraints were existed. Meyer (2004) estimated that this model has effectively been used in thousands of studies across many fields including sociology, political science, civics, marketing, management, public health, communications, economics, education, and technology. Other researchers have investigated the diffusion of innovations in such diverse fields as solar power (Keeler, 1976), farm innovations in India (Sekon, 1968), and weather forecasting (Surry, 1993). There is no formula for this process but a strategy or plan is most important for achieving best result of the process. Implementation of Adoption & Diffusion process could help to revive Handloom sector of Bangladesh and thus, it would generate rural employments and contribute in poverty reduction. Higher outputs from this sector also can contribute boost export economy of the country. Government and its concerned authority, Bangladesh Handloom Board (BHB), should formulate proper policies to implement Adoption and Diffusion process in Handloom sector to save long struggling Handloom sector. References: Ahmed, M. U. (1999):Development of Small- scale industries in Bangladesh in the New Millennium: Challenges and Opportunities, Asian Affairs, Vol.21, NO.1, Jan-march. Chowdhury, N (1989): Bangladeshs Handloom Economy in Transition: A Case of Unequal Growth, Structural Adjustment and Economic Mobility amid Laissez- Faire Markets: A Synthesis. Volume XVII, March-June 1989, Number 1&2 Latif, M.A (1997): Handloom Industry of Bangladesh 1947-90 Latif, M.A(1998) Towards Technological Transition in the Bangladesh Handloom Industry: A Project Proposal on Replacement of the Ordinary Fly-Shuttle-Loom by Chittaranjan Loom Asian development Bank (ADB): Strategic Issues and potential Response- Small and medium Enterprise Development and export expansion, Dhaka-2002. Ahmed, M and Islam, AFMM (1989): Nominal and Effective Rate of Protection in Bangladesh Textile Economy Jaforullah M, (1997): Production technology, elasticity of substitution and technical efficiency of the Handloom textile industry of Bangladesh M. A. Gofran: Status of biogas technology in Bangladesh, published in the Daily star on 5th Sep07 Islam, R (1992): Transfer, Adoption, and Diffusion of Technology for Small and Cottage Industries Roger, E. M (2003): Diffusion of Innovation (5th edition) Fullan, M. and Pomfret, A. (1977): Research on curriculum and instruction implementation. Review of Educational Research, 47(1), 335-397 Meyer, G. (2004): Diffusion methodology: Time to innovate Journal of Health Communication, vol. 9 Keeler, J.D (1976). Application of innovation attributes dimension to a new solar energy product: Implications for advertising and public relations. Dissertation Abstracts International Sekon, G.S. (1968): Differential perceptions of attributes of innovations by professional advocates and their clientele. Dissertation Abstracts, 30, 1245A. University Microfilms No, 69-14, 567 Surry, D. W. (1993): The role of perceptions in the development and adoption of three computer-based learning modules. (Doctoral Dissertation, The University of Georgia, 1993); Dissertation Abstracts International, 54 (9), 3409A - 3410A

Author: Mr. Abrar Ahmed Apu, M.Sc in Textile-Clothing Engineering and Management from Niederrhein University of Germany. He teaches students in the Department of Textile Engineering of Daffodil International University, Bangladesh. He is the founderdirector of M&A Sourcing Bangladesh, based in Dhaka. He will be reached at: abrar@mnasourcingbd.com

Bangladesh Textile Today Issue: Jan-Feb , 2011

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