RESURFACE! AND PEEL ! TREATMENT TRAINING!

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

course plan!
History of Peels Structure of the skin
and the Life of a Skin Cell

Skin Ageing Skin Pigmentation Problematic Skin How Do Acids Exfoliate the Skin Deep Peels V Light Peels

Benets of Light Peels Acids for Different Skin Types The Acids We Use at MONU Why Do These Acids
Work Well Together?

Consultations Aftercare

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

The History Of Peels!

The use of chemical peels dates back over 3,500 years to the ancient Egyptians, in fact, the formulations used have been found written on papyrus buried alongside a mummy. It documented the used of milk (lactic acid) along with other ingredients such as grape skin (tartaric acid) salt and honey (pyruvic acid) to lighten the skin, a lighter skin showed a higher ranking in the social society. As we know Cleopatra famously bathed in milk, it is believed this is the reason her skin remained so light and bright. Other historical gures who where known to bathe in milk were Elizabeth I of England and the Empress Elisabeth of Austria. Phenol (extracted from coal tar) was used during World War One, its antiseptic properties were perfect for wound care, which was particularly benecial when treating the rising number of explosion burns to the face suffered by soldiers in the dirty trenches. The medicinal use of salicylic acid was rst documented by the ancient Greeks in about 500 BC. It was used primarily as a pain reliever and fever reducer. Native Americans are known to have widely used salicylic acid, in the form of willow bark, to treat pain, fever, and inammation.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Structure Of The Skin And The Life Of A Skin Cell!

It is estimated that our skin is made up of around 70 trillion skin cells making it the largest organ of the body. It gives us our shape by supporting all of our internal organs, bones and blood and provides a waterproof covering. The thickness of the skin can vary, the thinnest skin is around the eyes and eyelids, and is approximately 0.5mm, the thickest skin is found on the soles of the feet and can be up to 4mm in thickness. The whole process of a single cell moving up through the layers of the skin, takes approximately 28 days. However, after the age of 36, the age you are, represents the number of days the process of keratinisation takes So What Is Keratinisation?! ! !

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Structure Of The Skin!

Stratum Germinativum This is the deepest layer of the epidermis, also known as the Stratum Basale. It is within this layer that a process called mitosis takes place. The Stratum Germinativum also contains melanocytes; these are melanin producing cells which provide the body its natural protection against harmful UV rays. Stratum Spinosum This is where the rst stage of keratinisation takes place. Cells are pushed up from the Stratum Germinativum and begin to atten slightly then start to synthesis keratin Stratum Granulosum Also called the granular layer, it is in this layer that keratinisation continues the nucleus within the cells become void and starts to ll with keratin. The cells atten further and continue to move up into the next layer. Stratum Lucidium This is a clear layer and has 2-3 layers of irregular clear at cells. The Stratum Lucidium only tends to be found in thicker skin, therefore is commonly found on the soles of the feet and the palms of the hands. Stratum Corneum - This layer is made up of between 15-20 layers of completely attened cells, these cells are full of the protein keratin. The keratin within these attened cells, help to absorb water helping to keep the skin hydrated and preventing water from evaporating. The Stratum Disjunctum - This is the outer most layer and is part of the stratum corneum. The dead skin cells from this layer shed naturally over time. We lose between 30,000-40,000 dead skin cells from this surface daily, therefore the skin is constantly renewing itself. The desquamation process unfortunately slows over time the older we get this is where acid peels come in!
Dermal/epidermal Junction DERMIS Collagen Elastin Fibroblast Basal Layer EXTRA-CELLULAR MATRIX Microcirculation HYDRO-LIPIDIC MANTLE EPIDERMIS MIDDLE LAYER STRATUM CORNEUM

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Skin Ageing!
Our bodies are made up of around 70 trillion skin cells and on average each skin cell gets around 1,000 free radical attacks each day!
Changes within the Epidermis -! The sun is one of the main factors of ageing, UV rays thicken the Stratum Corneum, its because of this that the skin can look thick, leathery and dull. As we age, cell turnover dramatically slows down which can cause the epidermis to become thinner therefore leaving the skin looking delicate, pale in colour and aged. Langerhans cell die causing the skins immunity to reduce, this means that internal and external factors can cause the skin to react and weaken the skins strength and tolerance. Because Melanocytes decrease within the Epidermis, this causes an increase in melanogenesis, as a result of this, pigmentation marks on the skin appear. Changes within the Dermis ! Collagen and Elastin production in the Dermis slows down, this can cause the skin to look thinner and more delicate. The matrix of the Collagen and Elastin in the Dermis becomes more vulnerable to external factors and then can become damaged. Blood vessels in the Dermis become more fragile, this can cause the skin to be more vascular, especially to the cheeks, nose and chin area. In addition to this, bruising can be noticed in the skin much more frequently.

Skin conditions are a result of internal and external factors. Approximately 20% of our skin is determined by genetic factors Approximately 80% of our skin is determined by environmental factors!

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Skin Pigmentation!
Pigmentation is often noticed within the skin later on in life, in fact all of our sun damage has occurred by the age of 18, but the results of the damage only tends to surface in our mid to late thirties.
Pigment or Melanin is created within the Melanocytes which are found in the Stratum Germinativum, the Melanocytes create Melanin from the amino acid tyrosine, this then triggers a natural protection or defence against the sun often a tan can be noticed on the skin.
Due to an enzyme Tyrosinase, this causes melanin production to speed up which results in an over production of pigment. This then increases the formation of pigmentation patches on the skins surface. Melanin granules are stored within the melanosomes and then dispersed into nger like projections called dendrites.

Stratum corneum ! Keratinocytes! ! ! Langerhans cells! ! Melanocytes! Basal layer ! ! ! Fibroblastes! ! Microvasculature! Dermis ! Epidermis ! !

In addition to this, UVA rays attack the Langerhans Cells, the Langerhans Cells work at alerting the bodys immune system which protects and warn the skin of attacking external factors, failure of this mechanism can result in chronic inammatory skin conditions and further pigmentation problems.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Problematic Skin!
Problematic skin can dramatically reduce condence and self-esteem; its a serious skin condition that needs serious attention and understanding to know how to treat it effectively. To fully understand this skin type we rst need to look at what happens in the the Dermis and Hair Follicle.
The Dermis ! The Sebaceous Glands are under the inuence of hormones within the body, these hormones are stimulated at puberty so acne can trigger at this age in people. Higher levels of male hormones cause the skin to produce more oil. Bacteria called propionic-bacteria or P-bacteria, occurs naturally in the follicles, this bacteria feeds off the sebum and oil within the follicle. In addition to this, if dead skin cells build up on the skin surface which is likely to happen in an acne skin as it has a thicker and waxy consistency, this can then block the opening of the follicle and cause build up. This build up and inammation will cause the formation of blackheads, whiteheads and breakouts. Hair Follicle ! Hair follicles are perfect areas for bacteria, sebum and dirt to collect, most hair follicles grow a thick hair which acts like a wick, helping to bring all of the bacteria, dirt and grime to the surface. Acne sufferers tend not to have hair or only very weak hair growing out of the follicle which causes the sebum, dirt and bacteria to remain within the follicle.

Postule! NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

How Do Acids Exfoliate The Skin!

Our cells are held together by intracellular glue, but when an acid is applied to the skin the intercellular glue is dissolved causing the surface layer of cells to loosen and desquamate.
Desquamation or shedding of the skin cells, is something that naturally occurs everyday on our skins surface, daily we shed between 30,000 40,000 skin cells. However, sometimes, especially on the face, these dead skin cells can get trapped or do not shed as quickly as they should. By using acids on the skin we are simply speeding up this natural process.

Unfortunately, as we age, this process slows causing the skin to look thicker, dull and less radiant.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Deep Peels V Light Peels!

A light peel (or a supercial chemical peel) will thin or remove the Stratum Corneum, but does not penetrate deeper than the stratum granulosum. These peels can be carried out by beauty therapists or nurses and courses are usually recommended.

A deep peel creates necrosis of the epidermis and papillary dermis and extends into reticular dermis. These peels are only ever applied by cosmetic surgeons and are carried out once on a patient. A phenol peel can prevent the new skin from making pigment, therefore results are a dramatically lightened skin, but constant SPF application is required to protect.

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Benefits Of Light Peels!

Acid peels containing Mandelic acid, Glycolic acid, Azelaic, Arganine and Salicylic acid are most commonly used to treat acne and post acne scarring.

Glycolic acid is usually the best acid to treat milia and this acid can often be found in eye products to help prevent and reduce this.

Retinoic (Vitamin A) or a Jessners peel (1-3 coats) can be used, a Jessners peel is a combination of Resorcinol, Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Which Acids Are Best To Use On ! Different Skin Types?!

Caucasian Skins Of course a thorough consultation is required on any skin type before applying a chemical peel, a Caucasian skin, generally can have a variety of peels as the risk of damaging the pigment production is much less than of a black skin. Sensitive Skin Lactic Acid and Arganine Acid are best for sensitive and delicate skins, this is due to the larger molecular structure of the acid, therefore remaining only on the skins surface. Black/Asian/Darker Hispanic Skin If a deeper more aggressive peel is applied to a darker skin, then post inammatory pigmentation can occur; the skin can become permanently lighter or darker in patches. This is because the melanin production in the skin can be damaged. Lighter peels using Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Mandelic Acid and Glycolic Acid are recommended.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

The Acids We Use Within Our Peels!

Glycolic Acid is derived from sugar cane and has the smallest molecular structure which means it is more aggressive on the skin. It works by effectively dissolving the intracellular glue that holds our skin cells together and can remove the top layers of the skin revealing the fresh new cells underneath.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Lactic Acid is derived from sour milk, it has moisturising properties to the skin and well as lightening and brightening the complexion. Caution on clients who suffer with a dairy allergy or who are lactose intolerant.

Salicylic Acid is derived from wintergreen, sweet birch leaves and willow bark. As salicylic acid is oil soluble, it is found in many acne products. It has a large molecular structure therefore sits on the skins surface.

Citric Acid has a larger molecular structure which means it works on the skins surface to predominantly lighten and brighten the skin and generally increase skin health, radiance and vitality. Citric acid is very good to lighten pigmentation patches and generally even out skin tone and texture.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Why Do These Acids ! Work Well Together?!

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Resurface And Peel Paste And Lotion!

Resurface and Peel Lotion 10% (Homecare) 15% and 20% (Professional only)! Aqua (Water), Lactic Acid, Alcohol Denat., Hydroxyethylcellulose, Salicylic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Saccharum Ofcinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Acer Sacchrarum (Sugar Maple) Extract. Resurface and Peel Paste! Propylene Glycol, Sodium Bicarbonate, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Silica, Coconut Alcohol, Coco Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Limonene, Papain, Helianthus Annuus (Sunower) Seed Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Tangerina (Tangerine) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Beta-Carotene, Ascorbyl Palmitate.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Treatment Procedure!
An innovative deep exfoliation treatment using Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid and Citric Acid to loosen stubborndead skin cells which cause the skin to appear dull and lifeless. By removing the dead cells, cellular renewal is stimulated encouraging healthier cells to be replaced, leaving the skin with a brighter, smoother and clearer appearance. Preparations required: ! Timer, Measuring set, Appropriate Cleanser, Appropriate facial Oil, Eye Make-up Remover, Eye Lotion, Active Toner, Micro Exfoliant, Resurface and Peel Paste, Resurface and Peel Lotion1, 2 or 3, Hydrating Mask, Rosewood Reviving Mist, Eye Cool Gel, Lip Balm, Recovery Balm. Frequency: ! Peels are benecial for all skin types as a one off treatment, however if a specic concern is to be dealt with such as pigmentation, scarring, acne or ne lines and wrinkles, then a course of peels is highly recommended. Usually 1 a week for 6 weeks, then once a month to maintain the results Homecare is always advised to achieve quicker more effective results. Procedure: ! Remove eye make-up and lipstick. Cleanse the face, neck and dcollet with appropriate cleanser and tone (using the Active Toner to degrease the skin) over the face, neck and dcollet. Blot Apply Micro Exfoliant to the face and neck and remove with warm mitts and blot. N.B Ensure the skin is dry before application to prevent dilution and avoid any area of broken capillaries, mucus membranes around the nasal area, eyelids and corners of the eyes apply with caution under the eye area. ! Apply Recovery Balm to the nostrils and over the lips to protect from the peel, the Recovery Balm can be used in this way on any areas that you do not want the peel to work on such as vascular areas in the face. Apply 5ml of the Resurface and Peel Paste warm lightly in the hands, then apply to the face and neck, massage into the face and neck for 2 mins. Apply 5ml of Peel Lotion 1, 2 or 3 depending on the clients skin type (please refer to your training manual) on top of the paste and using a fan brush apply the lotion onto the face and neck following the procedure shown on training - the product should emulsify and whiten. N.B a slight tingling sensation may be experienced, but this is normal.! Leave on the skin for 7-10 minutes depending on the skin type (thicker problematic skin will benet from longer treatment time) ensure you communicate with your client throughout this stage. Thoroughly remove with cool sponges. Apply a thin layer of Hydrating Mask to the face and neck and leave in place for 10 minutes. Apply the appropriate facial oil to the chest and massage the shoulders, after 10 minutes remove the Hydrating Mask with cool sponges. Spray Rosewood Reviving Mist onto the face and neck. Apply Eye Cool Gel to eye area, Lip Balm to the lips and an application of Recovery Balm followed by Hydrating Moisturiser SPF15 to the face and neck.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Acid Peel Application!

After the application of the paste, the peel lotion should be applied with a fan brush to the face and neck. 1 1 1 1 3 3 3 1 1 3 4 4 4 4 1 5 1 2 2 2 2 1 1 1

1 Always use the cheeks as a guide, the pinker the cheeks go, the deeper the peel is working.

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Consultations ! For Peel Treatments!

General information Past treatments Main concerns Realistic expectations What skin care are are they currently using? Homecare recommendations

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Homecare recommendations! for best results!

Pigmentation / Lightened / Brightened / Radiance / Dull Skins! Eye Make Up Remover, Active Cleanser, Energising Facial Wash, Cleansing Balm, Active Toner, Micro Exfoliant, Skin Activator, Brightening Boost, Beauty Balm, Skin Perfector, Aromatic Mask, Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15, Night Renewal Complex, Eye Cool Gel, Collagen Eye Cream, Resurface and Peel Homecare System ! Ageing / Lines / Expression Lines / Wrinkles / Dry / Dehydrated! Eye Make Up Remover, Gentle Cleanser, Delicate Facial Wash, Gentle Toner, Micro Exfoliant, Skin Activator, Pro Retinol Anti Ageing Concentrate, Anti Ageing Concentrate, Moisture Rich Collagen Cream, Recovery Balm, Ampoules, Hydrating Mask, Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15, Extra Rich Night Cream, Eye Cool Gel, Collagen Eye Cream, Active Collagen Eye Patches, Resurface and Peel Homecare System Oily / Problematic / Acne / Scarring! Eye Make Up Remover, Clarifying Cleanser, Purifying Facial Wash, Clarifying Toner, Micro Exfoliant, Skin Activator, Mattifying Lotion, Cleansing Mask, Blemish Treatment, Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15, Eye Cool Gel, Collagen Eye Cream, Resurface and Peel Homecare System NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!

Aftercare/Precautions! When Performing Peels!

To ensure you get the most out of your facial treatment it would be advised you do the following
Avoid applying make-up on the skin after the treatment; ideally the skin should be left free from make up for the remainder of the day, but certainly for at least 2 hours after a treatment. Avoid the use of sun beds as this could lead to skin damage including burns, pigmentation or sensitivity. It is strongly recommended that the appropriate MONU homecare should be used to ensure maximum results within the skin. Avoid facial waxing, Electrolysis, Laser or IPL for 3-5 days post treatment. Apply MONU Hydrating Moisturiser SPF 15 on a daily basis if pigmentation is a concern within the skin. Re-apply 2-3 times per day if exposed to excessive UV exposure. Avoid the use of a sauna, steam room, swimming, excessive exercise and any harsh or stripping products on the skin for at least 48 hours.
NB - It is worth being aware that you may notice for a few days after a MONU Resurface and Peel Treatment, that the skin can seem dryer, tighter and possibly the odd breakout can be noticed. All of these symptoms are normal and are not cause for concern. For the best results, a course of treatment should be undertaken, most usually 1 treatment a week for 6 weeks, then once a month to maintain, however if treating acne, pigmentation and scarring, this can take longer depending on each individual case.

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Many Thanks ! for Attending & Good Luck with Future Treatments

NATURAL SCIENCE FOR YOUR SKIN!