Bespoke: December Issue

CITYA.M.
ISSUE 2 | DECEMBER 2012
JESSICA
ENNIS
as youve never seen her before
Mens fashion week u Watches
How to live forever u Bentley Boys
Engineered for men who

know that the best things
in life are complicated.
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can remember. These qualities were the inspiration for the master watchmakers at IWC who developed the Portuguese Perpetual
Calendar. The 18-carat red gold case houses an impressive automatic movement with a perpetual calendar and double moon phase
display for the northern and southern hemispheres, countdown to the next full moon and a Pellaton automatic winding system, to
mention only the most sophisticated of its complications. Needless to say, it runs with the same unerring precision as the moon in its
orbit around our planet. IWC. Engineered for men.
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www.iwc.com
Two impressive red lines.

The new 911 Carrera models.
The redline of a Porsche 911 has always been impressive. For almost 50 years now, each new generation has pushed the
boundariesof performance further and further. The new 911 Carrera 4 models are no exception. As well as their legendary
all-wheel drive handling,they feature broad shoulders, making for a striking presence.
And the iconic red LED light strip across the rear, means other road users can now appreciate the red line of a 911 too.
To find out more visit www.porsche.co.uk/redlines
Model shown is a Carrera 4S Coupe at 88,774.00 including first year road fund licence and first registration fee. Fuel consumption figures for
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A RACING MACHINE ON THE WRIST
RM 007
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CONTENTS
Inside
In conversation with...
THIS
ISSUE
18
Culture, etc.
26
9.
Philip Glass in his 75th year; why Roy Lichtenstein

was right; Joe Strummer remembered and the
power of the Hobbit dollar
How does it feel?
16.
Ewan McGregors travelling buddy Charlie

Boorman relives the time his boat was caught in
the middle of an epic and terrifying storm
All I want for Xmas 40.

Top tastemakers in the fashion world, including
Mulberrys Emma Hill, tell us what they hope to
find under the tree on Christmas morning
Eveningwear
49.
Tis the season for glorious ball gowns. From

Tom Ford to Valentino, we pick out the dresses
that will knock em dead
London Collections
Jessica Ennis
See Britains top designers including Patrick

Grant (above), Lou Dalton, Christopher
Raeburn as they prepare for Londons mens
fashion week in a series of candid shots.
The star of the London Olympics on how

her life has changed, her newfound love of
fashion and why she really wants to start
her own label.
30
Watch out
38
54.
If you have gone to the trouble of wearing a

tux, make sure you dont forget to pick out a
watch that matches.
The Bentley Boys 56.

They were the original gentleman daredevils, as
happy pushing the boundaries of the motor car
as they were quaffing the finest champagne.
Lucy Porter
The bijou comic remembers the time she was too
small for Vogue but she still has a soft spot for
Valentino.
CITYA.M.
Cover image: Lancton/Camera Press
The forever men

Larry Leight
58. Since
the dawn of man we have dreamed of
The boss of iconic glasses-maker Oliver
living forever. Now some scientists think it
might just be possible, either through
curing ageing or building robotic bodies.
Peoples tells us why his company has no

need for new fangled things like branding or publicity.
Allister Heath Editor, City A.M. | Steve Dinneen Editor, Bespoke Magazine and Life&Style Editor, City A.M. | Gavin Billenness Art Director | Naomi Mdudu Fashion Editor
Harry Owen Commercial Director | Sophie Evans Advertising Director | Nick Owen Distribution Director
For editorial enquiries contact editor@cityambespoke.com | For sales enquiries contact sales@cityambespoke.com
Published by City A.M., 4th Floor, 33 Queen Street, London, EC4R 1BR | Tel: 020 3201 8900
Printed by Polestar Group, 2 Wyncolls Road, Severalls Industrial Park, Colchester, Essex, CO4 9HU
Distribution helpline: 020 3201 8955 or distribution@cityam.com | City A.M.
December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 7
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CULTURE, etc.
PHILIP GLASS IS THE MOST REVERED POPULAR
COMPOSER OF HIS GENERATION. AT 75 HE STILL PUTS
ACTS HALF HIS AGE TO SHAME WITH HIS LIVE SHOWS
ESIDES HIS standing as

one of the foremost
composers of classical
music of the late 20th
and early 21st centuries,
there is one very good reason Philip
Glass has seen his 75th birthday
celebrated at events worldwide this
year: simply put, hes popular. He
draws crowds who might otherwise
shrink from a music scene perceived,
rightly or wrongly, as rarefied and
inaccessible to the uninitiated.
In his new book, How Music Works,
Glasss friend and collaborator David
Byrne describes the shift the live
performance of classical music
underwent in the early 1900s, moving
from a raucous, inclusive atmosphere
akin to modern day pop and rock
shows to a more restrained exclusivity,
often betraying elements of class-ism
amidst the classicism.
Over his near fifty year career,
Glass has consistently
transcended these
barriers between classical and popular

without losing an ounce of artistic
integrity in the process. He isnt
Andr Rieu, melodramatically
trotting out the Classic FM highlights
reel: instead, in continuing to push
the boundaries of his chosen form,
Glass has drawn influence from
dizzyingly eclectic sources, and has
been rewarded in kind with fans from
those circles.
There are similarities, for instance,
between Glass, with his deceptively
simple, often repetitive compositions,
and subsequent producers of techno
and other electronic genres.
This is never more apparent than in
Rework: Philip Glass Remixed, an
album of the composers work
reimagined by a painfully hip
selection of contemporary rock and
electronic musicians including Beck,
Cornelius, Amon Tobin, Pantha Du
Prince, Dan Deacon
and former Battles
man
Tyondai Braxton. Also telling: it was

Glass, the revered cultural icon, who
approached Beck about the project,
not the other way around.
Fittingly, Glasss 75th birthday
celebrations have seen him undertake
a globetrotting itinerary that would
shame most jobbing young indie
bands. His schedule included a weeklong run of his opera Einstein on the
Beach at the Barbican in May; a UK
and French tour with the Kronos
Quartet in which he performed his
score for the 1931 Dracula alongside
the film and the world premiere of
his second Concerto for Cello and
Orchestra in Cincinnati.
Glass returns to the Barbican this
month for a performance of his score
for Godfrey Reggios Koyaanisqatsi and,
the following night, a recital of
highlights from across his career at
Union Chapel. Ever popular, both nights
are completely sold out.
Chris Ward
Philip Glass Barbican shows begin
on 15 December. b
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CULTURE
LICHTENSTEINS VINDICATION
IN 1964, Life Magazine ran an article on
Roy Lichtenstein entitled Is he the
worst artist in the US?
Fifty years on, Lichtenstein has been
vindicated: the painter who
controversially reproduced found
images has turned out to be one of the
most recognizable painters of his
generation. Now, twenty years since his
last retrospective, Lichtenstein is as
relevant as ever. As the media bleeds
into the most intimate areas of our
personal lives, opportunities for the
dissemination of images have increased
exponentially. His 1963 diptych Whaam!
has always made a great poster for a
bedroom wall now it makes an
excellent Facebook cover photo.
But the retrospective, which opens at
the Tate Modern in February, challenges
the idea that Lichtenstein merely
replicated images. It contains a
collection of early drawings, many of
which offer a unique insight into the
way he transformed the images that he
appropriated for his prints and
paintings. The show goes some way to
refute claims that he was a one-trick
pony. From his pre-fame abstract
expressionism to the later comic-book
parodies of major paintings, this
exhibition shows there was more to
Lichtenstein than smoke plumes and
onomatopoeia.
Alex Dymoke
Lichtenstein: A Retrospective opens at the

Tate modern on 21 February.
Making the unmakeable

IT SEEMS appropriate that Mikhail
Bulgakovs cutting Soviet satire The
Master and Margarita, written in 1937,
was not published until thirty years later.
It gave his
nightmarish
creations time
to fully
gestate, to grow into creatures so

grotesque they make Lewis Carrolls
imagination seem tame.
It is ostensibly about a visit by the devil
to Soviet Moscow, but Bulgakovs
serpentine prose darts between dream
and reality, past (Pontius Pilates
Jerusalem) and present it is little
wonder people said it could never be
made into a play (well, not a good one,
at any rate).
But Theatre Complicite did just that,
dragging Woland the devil and his mansized cat Behemoth from the
page and onto the stage in a
cacophony of crashing
props and flashing
projectors. It was one of the
theatre events of the year. If
you missed it the first
time, dont make the
same mistake again.
Steve Dinneen
The Master and
Margarita is at the
Barbican from 14
December 19 January.
10 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke
THE MORMONS
ARE COMING...
AND THEYRE
HILARIOUS
THEY MAY have missed out on the White House
but the Mormons are on their way to London.
Having delighted Broadway leaving SpiderMan the musical trailing in its box-office wake
The Book of Mormon is on a mission to the
West End. Created by Trey Parker and Matt
Stone, the pair behind South Park, this is a
musical for people who dont like musicals; a
coarse, scabrous and very funny takedown of
religion in which two Mormon missionaries
find themselves in Uganda and discover their
optimism and beliefs are no match for a nation
ravaged by war and disease.
Lovingly parodying everything from The
Sound of Music to The Lion King, its the winner
of nine Tonys and is credited with breathing
new life into a dying art form. Rather proving
the point, The Book of Mormon will play at the
Prince of Wales theatre, previously home to
Mamma Mia and Cliff Richard: The Musical.
Graeme Allister
Previews start on 25 February.
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CULTURE
HOW MUMFORD AND

SONS BROKE THE USA
THEY LOOK like a troupe of off-duty farmers and their
name recalls an olde-worlde English village shop. Its
somewhat surprising then, that Mumford and Sons have
so decisively conquered the US.
Their latest album, Babel, went straight in at the top of
the Billboard charts, outselling Madonna, Pink and Justin
Bieber the past, present and future of American pop. The
London group sold more than 600,000 records in its first
week of sales, doubling the sales of Biebers Believe. Babel
is also the second-most digitally downloaded album in its
first week of all time, after Lady GaGas Born This Way.
Despite their transatlantic success, they havent
forgotten their roots they return to the O2 arena in
London later this month.
Alex Dymoke
Mumford and Sons will play the O2 Arena on 14 December.
Saywhat?
ON 22 December it will be a full decade since the death of Joe Strummer, aged
50, from an undiagnosed congenital heart defect. For a certain kind of music
lover, the untimely passing of the Clash and Mescaleros front man had an
impact matched only by the subsequent premature departures of John Peel
and Beastie Boys Adam Yauch. It wasnt that Strummer was the first icon of
punk to die in middle age (see: Ramones) but that, as the figurehead of The
Only Band That Matters, he stood for something bigger than himself, bigger
than the band, bigger even than punk itself. Though The Clash grew in stature
to play the same stadia as any number of album-oriented rock bands, it
managed to do so with values intact amidst the decadent music industry of
the 70s and 80s. Post-Clash, Strummer was hardly the Rolling Stones, all but
openly acknowledging that his best years were behind him, with an occasional
half-hearted album propping up lucrative tours. But like Peel and Yauch, he
remained a vital artistic force, always seeking out the new, always fighting the
good fight. Fans mourned the loss of the music, but mourned the man more.
Accordingly, every year on the anniversary of Strummers death, venues across
the country hold tribute nights to the great man, donating the proceeds to
Strummerville, the charity set up in Strummers memory by his wife Lucinda.
Since its inception, the organisation has tirelessly provided opportunities for
emerging musicians, encompassing free-to-hire rehearsal spaces, donations to
recording costs and recently opening a studio in Sierra Leone. The passion
Strummer instilled in his fans in life has ensured that, even in death, he
continues to bring more good to the world than most of the peers who
Chris Ward
outlived him. b
IT IS A DECADE SINCE THE

SUDDEN DEATH OF ROCK
LEGEND JOE STRUMMER.
HES STILL DOING BETTER
THAN MOST OF HIS PEERS.
HE HAS A WILDLY
INAPPROPRIATE
SENSE OF HUMOUR.
WE SEXUALIZED
EVERYTHING AS
MUCH AS POSSIBLE
Amanda Seyfried on
Hugh Jackman, her Les
Miserables co-star
THE OPERA THAT
WILL NEVER END
THIS YEAR, John Copley celebrated his 50th

anniversary as a director at the Royal Opera
House. His production of Puccinis La Boheme has
been a glistening jewel in the institutions
repertoire for 40 years, having been revived 24
times. If it aint broke, dont fix it.
La Boheme opens (again) on 17 December.
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CULTURE
THE BOOK
THAT MADE
A PUBLISHER
THE IMMINENT release of Ang Lees
adaptation of Life of Pi has been a long
time coming almost a full decade, with
the film rights to the beloved Yann
Martel novel snapped up soon after its
2002 Man Booker triumph.
Ten years on, its easy to forget the
cultural impact of the book, not just in
and of itself but in launching its UK
publisher, the Edinburgh indie
Canongate, into the big leagues. Pre-Pi,
the most widely recognised name on
Canongates roster was Alasdair Gray.
Post-Pi, its published work by Nick Cave,
Philip Pullman and in its most
remarkable coup to date Barack
Obama. Thats a lot to lay at the feet of a
fable about a boy and a tiger lost at sea.
A film adaptation has defeated
directors as varied as M Night Shyamalan,
Jean-Pierre Jeunet and Alfonso Cuarn,
all of whom have been attached at some
point and subsequently dropped out. The
3D, CGI-tiger-heavy finished product at
least promises to be Ang Lees most
visually spectacular film since Crouching
Tiger, Hidden Dragon. Naturally, it carries
the weight of expectation, but then again,
Pi hasnt made it this far by doing what
people expected.
Chris Ward
The Life of Pi is in cinemas on 20
December
HOW HOBBITS CHANGED

NEW ZEALAND FOREVER
THE EXTRAORDINARY EFFECT
OF THE JRR TOLKIEN DOLLAR
THIS MONTH sees the UK release of
The Hobbit: An Unexpected Journey,
the first of a series of prequels to the
highest grossing film trilogy of all
time, The Lord of the Rings.
But the original films werent just a
box office triumph: they showcased
the scenery of director Peter Jacksons
native New Zealand, serving as the
kind of international tourism
campaign any self-respecting country
would chop off a peninsula for.
With guaranteed global attention
from The Hobbit, its no surprise that
Tourism New Zealand has opted for
the advertising slogan 100 per cent
Middle-earth, 100 per cent Pure New
Zealand, which builds on the
campaign that has sold the country
for the last decade, while reinforcing
its association with the films.
In New Zealand in the months
leading up to the films release, The

Hobbit has been inescapable. Tourists
watch Hobbit-themed safety videos
before flying into Wellington airport,
where they are greeted by a 13 metre,
1.2 tonne sculpture of Gollum, the
films antihero. A week of city
council-funded activities took place
in the capital, which has rebranded
itself the Middle of Middle-earth in
the run-up to the 28 November world
premiere. It touches all parts of
society; those who want to can even
buy Hobbit stamps, with legal tender
Hobbit coins.
With all signs suggesting The
Hobbit will dominate cinemas over
the holiday season, New Zealand will
be hoping tourists will convert those
box office dollars to Hobbit dollars.
Simon Thomson
The Hobbit is in cinemas on 13 December
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PEOPLE
How does it feel...

TO BE LOST AT SEA (LITERALLY)?
By Charley Boorman
T WAS pure, abject terror I was sure we

were going to die. I remember clinging
onto the side of the boat, almost faceplanting into the water and then rolling
back and seeing sky and then rolling forwards
and only seeing water.
The trip had started peacefully enough. Timor
is the last dot at the bottom of Indonesia. As the islands
taper off, you turn South and head towards Australia,
where we were filming for By Any Means back in 2008. I
was with Mungo the cameraman, the captain and his
mate. We had been jumping off the boat into the
beautiful, clear water. At night you could see dolphins.
The scene was stunning totally idyllic. But then
everything started to go wrong.
The captain had told us it might be a bit rough, and
that night a massive storm hit. The sea was getting
rougher and rougher and our boat started getting
tossed around like a rag doll. We were caught in swells
of 10-15 metres far bigger than the boat we were in.
Half-way through, my wife called on the SAT phone. I
didnt want to worry her so I kept saying, No, no its
fine, Im having such a fantastic trip. All the while I
was clinging on for dear life to the side of the boat. I
kept wanting to call the Royal National Lifeboat
Institution, give them our co-ordinates and tell them to
come and rescue us, but there was no way they could
have reached us in conditions like that.
After being tossed around for a day and a half, I
looked on the GPS. My heart sank. We were 250 miles
from any land, doing one knot an hour. The wash
generated by our boat would spread out behind, only to
be blown back in front of us by the wind: we were
hardly moving at all. The captain hadnt slept for two
days. He was white with fear.
Eventually, after what seemed like an eternity, the
storm calmed down and we managed to get behind the
wind. I will never forget the sight of the huge Australian
coastline appearing on the horizon as the storm
receded.
After coming to a halt, we cooked a meal for the first
time in three and a half days. We sat there eating lamb
cutlets, potatoes and vegetables. My God how we ate. We
stuffed ourselves. In those conditions, the trick is
actually to eat a little bit at regular intervals so that
your stomach is never completely empty it helps with
sea sickness.
The trip was supposed to take three days. It took six
and a half. Ive been in a fair few scrapes in my time,
but that boat ride was the closest Ive come to death.
Charley Boormans South African Adventure airs on Channel
5 early next year b
JAEGER.CO.UK
OVERCOAT 399
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FASHION
BESTof
BRITAIN
NAOMI MDUDU VISITS THE STUDIOS OF STAR DESIGNERS
SHOWING NEXT MONTH AT LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN.
ENSWEAR IS doing well. So

well, in fact, that in 2011 global
sales reached a whopping 24bn,
representing 50 per cent of the
luxury apparel market, far
outpacing the growth of
womenswear; and its something
the Brits have always done well.
Only this winter, Chinese mega-brand Bosideng launched a
London-based strand of the company, with the sole
intention of tapping into the appetite for English design
sensibilities. Meanwhile, students continue to travel from
all corners or the world to train as tailors on the prestigious
Savile Row.
The fashion world, though, has been slow to pick up on
the lucrative opportunity. Until this summer, the capital
had tacked menswear designers onto the last day of the
womenswear shows, almost as an after-thought (hence the
derogatory Mensday Wednesday label).
Theres only so much impact that you can have on one
day, says designer Christopher Raeburn, bearing in mind
there are many other designers showing on that day. The
arrangement also meant the day overlapped with Milan, so
many of the key press and buyers would bypass it
altogether. London Collections: Men, the first London mens
fashion week, held last June, changed all this, kick-starting
the concept with a line-up that included key players like
Hackett London and Margaret Howell, alongside emerging
talent like J W Anderson and Sibling, demonstrating the
eclectic mix the capital has to offer.
We all knew there was going to be a lot of focus on
London so we worked hard to try and bring it home, says
Portraits by Laura Lean
designer Lou Doulton.

Browns menswear buying director Mei Chung says the
creative momentum was just what the capital needed to
compete with the other fashion capitals. Menswear in
London has grown up in the past few years, she says.
London is always cited as the creative hub of fashion but a
few years back, technically, it wasnt on a par with, say, Paris
or Milan. Now designers are merging their creative ideas
with great technical ability, creating really strong
collections that are both conceptual and wearable. And,
according to Sean Dixon of Richard James, its paying off: I
think London has always been portrayed as the quirky
design capital and everyones always focused on that now
people have finally realised that theres a very serious
menswear industry here.
Press and buyers came from 21 different countries, with
brands reporting a growth in sales of up to 40 per cent. We
ended up taking orders from buyers who had obviously
come to London for London Collections, Raeburn says.
And January is set to be even bigger. Off the back of Junes
success, Alexander McQueen and Tom Ford have been
confirmed as new additions to the line-up (see page 25),
cementing the capital as a key player in the fashion week
calendar. All of us involved in the first London Collections:
Men were overwhelmed by the response to the first week in
June, especially from an international perspective, Dylan
Jones, head of the London Collections Committee, explains.
We have had even more enthusiasm and support for the
second season, and we are looking forward to January being
bigger and better than last time.
Over the next five pages we catch up with some of the top designers
showing their collections in January.
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FASHION .................
Patrick Grant
E TAUTZ
MANY BRANDS are jumping on the bandwagon of the traditional English
gentleman aesthetic, but its something E Tautz has long mastered.
Founded in 1867 by Edward Tautz, the bespoke tailoring house is the goto brand for the royal family and international movers and shakers,
taken by its clean lines, quality craftsmanship and tradition of sporting
and military references.
Aware of the need to keep up with the times, Edinburgh-born designer
Patrick Grant took over the reins in 2009 as a part of a big re-branding
effort. Rather than completely doing away with the past, Grant has
managed to stay loyal to the labels heritage while also helping it appeal
to a new audience.
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FASHION
Lou Dalton
LOU DALTON is a name you need to know. The Shropshireborn designer is making real waves in London and beyond
and is heralded as one of the most promising designers on
the menswear show schedule.
With ten seasons under her belt designing for her
eponymous line, shes quickly developed a reputation for
presenting a rebellious, fresh take on classic English
tailoring. Her collections tap into the conceptually
innovative quality the capital is known for, while also
creating pieces that men actually want to wear.
So whats next? Were doing a t-shirt range exclusively
for Harvey Nichols. I like their work ethic so I really wanted
to do something special with them.
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FASHION .................
Christopher Raeburn
DESPITE THE efforts of brands like Stella McCartney and
EDUN, the term ethical fashion continues to put people
off. Emerging designers like Christopher Raeburn,
though, are helping to change that attitude.
One of the most innovative designers on the fashion
circuit, Raeburn launched his eponymous line in 2008,
inspired by the challenge of creating an ethically sound
business that also produces conceptually forwardthinking designs. His approach has paid off his debut
collection was quickly snapped up by Browns and, in the
last season alone, his business has grown by 40 per cent,
securing stockists in Russia, Singapore and the
Philippines.
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FASHION
Richard James
ALONG WITH Ozwald Boateng and Timothy Everest, Richard
James helped initiate the new bespoke movement in the early
1990s adding a new lease of life to Savile Row. The brand quickly
rose to prominence, producing bold colours and fresh tailoring
that provided a fresh spin on the classics.
His first customers included US Vogues Hamish Bowles and
David Linley. Both were wooed by the flattering silhouettes of his
suits and his eye for interesting fabrics. Sir Elton John and Sir
Paul McCartney soon followed.
Twenty years on, the brand has been the recipient of a string
of awards, including the designer of the year gong from GQ and
the menswear designer of the year award at the British Fashion
Awards. Revered fashion writer Colin McDowell described him as
the best colourist working in menswear in London.
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FASHION
Marc Hare
Mr Hare
EVERY SHOE I make is inspired by a gap in my wardrobe, says
designer Marc Hare, and so far its proved a winning formula. Since
founding Mr Hare in 2008, his shoes have become the ultimate
purchase for footwear aficionados, as likely to be seen on the feet of
City gents as they are on the red carpet. This has been a particularly
big year for the brand, with the launch of a flagship store on
Stafford Street, Mayfair, along with the launch of an online shop.
Next year is set to be even busier, with Hare set to launch his first
English-made shoe (he usually manufactures in Florence), created in
partnership with Alfred Sargent, and a womens line is planned for
early in the new year.
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FASHION ................
LondonCalling
Spring 2013
Nature is one of
Sarah Burtons key
motifs at Alexander
McQueen. For spring,
she tapped into it by
updating black
tuxedo jackets with
dragony prints.
Winter 2012
Its menswear collections
have become
increasingly focused on
craftsmanship in
recognition of the brands
founders Savile Row
roots. This check suit
from the winter 2012
collection, pays homage
to that.
Winter 2012
Military references are at
the heart of the brand so
you would be hard pressed
to nd a collection that
doesnt tap into it. In this
collection, the theme was
apparent on a series of
oversized coats that had all
the drama you would
expect from a McQueen
show.
TOM FORD is coming to town. In

an industry dominated by
blockbuster names, few can
match Ford for sheer A-list
glamour. The fact he has decided
to stage his autumn/winter 2013
collection at London Collections:
Men in January is testament to
its pulling power. London has a
vibrancy that is inspiring and
much of what I create for men
takes its inspiration from
traditional British menswear,
he says.
January will also see the
designer open the doors to the
labels first stand alone store in
the UK; an 8,000 sq ft space on
Londons Sloane Street,
dedicated to the tailoring that
has gone down so well with the
likes of Brad Pitt and Stanley
Tucci, along with his fragrances,
eye wear and womenswear line.
And Ford isnt the only one
getting in on the action.
Alexander McQueen has
followed suit, opting to show its
menswear collection in London
after eight years in Milan. It
makes sense: in October the
much-loved label, now headed
by Sarah Burton, returned to its
roots, opening its first menswear
store on Savile Row, where
founder Lee McQueen trained
before establishing the label in
1992. Its great to be showing
our menswear mainline as part
of London Collections, especially
with London being the home of
Alexander McQueen and with
our first dedicated menswear
store opening on Savile Row, the
labels chief executive Jonathan
Akeroyd said.
Far from being just about
fancy clothes, then, the labels
decision to show in London has a
wider impact on the British
fashion industry. Londons
womenswear fashion week has
already cemented itself as a notto-be-missed fixture on the
calendar and now, finally,
menswear has too. b
Spring 2013
Tom Ford is the king
of the suit and the
quality of this piece
from his latest
collection shows
why. He recently
replaced Brioni as
the ocial tailor for
the James Bond
lms.
Winter 2012
Since his days at
Gucci, Ford has
earned a reputation
for never playing it
safe, so expect
classic tuxedos with
a modern twist, like
this bright blue
style he showed for
winter.
Spring 2012
Suiting isnt his only
strength. Fords
separates are
equally strong and
often come in
luxurious fabrics like
suede and cashmere,
which go down a
treat with his army
of fans.
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INTERVIEW ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
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The transformation of
Jessica
Ennis
From golden girl to style queen:

The nations sweetheart tells
Naomi Mdudu about her dream
of starting her own fashion label
ADORE Victoria Beckham and

Alexander McQueen...
Id love to start my own fashion
label...
Ive been to two award ceremonies in
the last two nights...
You would be forgiven for thinking these were
the words of a Hollywood starlet or seasoned
pop star. But this is Jessica Ennis the poster girl
for the 2012 Olympics and contender for BBC
Sports Personality of the Year, who, in the mind
of the nation, wears lycra as a second skin.
The last time I saw her, I was transfixed. So
were the 80,000 other fans packed inside the
Olympic Stadium as she took to the track for the
800m. Catching up with her last month was a
completely different affair. Meet Jess, said her
publicist, twice, noticing I hadnt realised she
had arrived.
With her famous six-pack covered, she somehow blends into the background. You wouldnt
believe shes the same woman who dominated
the heptathlon that most punishing of
Olympic events less than three months ago. In
the flesh she is slight almost willowy with a
petite 5ft 5 frame (I was always pretty skinny,
she says, doing athletics has given me some
shape).
It wouldnt be harsh to say that she was no
style icon three years ago, or even six months
ago for that matter, but thats quickly changed.
Almost overnight she has become a focal point
for the post-Olympics revival of Cool Britannia,
as likely to be spotted in Stella McCartney as the
new Adidas collection (which she is modelling
the day I catch up with her). The change must be
startling: one moment shes a promising
heptathlete, relatively unknown outside a
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The transformation of
Jessica
Ennis
From golden girl to style queen:

The nations sweetheart tells
Naomi Mdudu about her dream
of starting her own fashion label
ADORE Victoria Beckham and

Alexander McQueen...
Id love to start my own fashion
label...
Ive been to two award ceremonies in
the last two nights...
You would be forgiven for thinking these were
the words of a Hollywood starlet or seasoned
pop star. But this is Jessica Ennis the poster girl
for the 2012 Olympics and contender for BBC
Sports Personality of the Year, who, in the mind
of the nation, wears lycra as a second skin.
The last time I saw her, I was transfixed. So
were the 80,000 other fans packed inside the
Olympic Stadium as she took to the track for the
800m. Catching up with her last month was a
completely different affair. Meet Jess, said her
publicist, twice, noticing I hadnt realised she
had arrived.
With her famous six-pack covered, she somehow blends into the background. You wouldnt
believe shes the same woman who dominated
the heptathlon that most punishing of
Olympic events less than three months ago. In
the flesh she is slight almost willowy with a
petite 5ft 5 frame (I was always pretty skinny,
she says, doing athletics has given me some
shape).
It wouldnt be harsh to say that she was no
style icon three years ago, or even six months
ago for that matter, but thats quickly changed.
Almost overnight she has become a focal point
for the post-Olympics revival of Cool Britannia,
as likely to be spotted in Stella McCartney as the
new Adidas collection (which she is modelling
the day I catch up with her). The change must be
startling: one moment shes a promising
heptathlete, relatively unknown outside a
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INTERVIEW
Clockwise from far

left: Ennis, wearing
Stella McCartney,
singing autographs
outside the Harpers
Bazaar Women Of The
Year Awards l
Posing in an
Alexander McQueen
dress l Modelling
the new Adidas
collection, for which
she is the face l On
the front row at the
Mulberry show at
London Fashion Week
group of loyal fans committed to the sport,

the next, shes an unexpected fashion darling.
So how is she enjoying the transition from
tracksuits and looking very good in them,
mind you to being dressed by some of the
most sought after labels in the world? Its a
brilliant position to be in, she says. Its nice to
have the option to pick and choose its less
stressful when youre deciding what to wear.
Her reinvention as a poster-girl has also
given her design ambitions of her own and
she confides that a collection is definitely on
the horizon. I would love to go down that
road, she says, whether its collaborating
with [a big sportswear brand] or doing the
more fashiony side of things.
One can safely assume, then, that the
responsibility of designing her wedding dress
(for her upcoming marriage to childhood
sweetheart Andy Hill) will be bestowed upon
one of the big British names. But dont expect
to hear about it in advance: shes fiercely private (in contrast to fellow Olympians like Mo
Farah or Victoria Pendleton, who have very
publicly discussed the intricacies of their private lives). During the Olympics, until she
arrived on the track for the first leg of the
competition, she was nowhere to be seen.
While the rest of TeamGB were continually
snapped leaving the Olympic park, Ennis
would often take the back door, hoody up.
Even now, aside from the odd mention of my
fiance, she keeps everything firmly work
related. Whenever she thinks she might be
giving too much away, she quickly returns to

talk about training or the Games.
It wasnt always so. Born in Sheffield to a
social worker mother and self-employed decorator father, Ennis came from humble beginnings. Its only since fronting the Adidas
campaign in the run-up to the Olympics that
she was really propelled into the public consciousness. Her anonymity has been replaced
with a furore of media attention into every
detail of her life, from how much shes being
paid for her latest endorsements, to the smallest details of her upcoming nuptials. I ask her
how shes coping with all of the attention and
she responds with her default smile, developed, no doubt, in response to the number of
times shes been asked about it since the big
win. Its really weird. It was such a big build
up to the Olympics and the pressure kind of
piled on me but I literally wouldnt have
changed anything. The whole build up was
brilliant but when you actually achieve it,
your goal, your dream, its a strange feeling.
The attention, of course, has its advantages.
Its really busy now. Busier than Id ever imagined Im having to say no to quite a lot of
companies who want to work with me. Its a
brilliant position to be in.
In the run up to the Games she is said to
have earned 1m through endorsement deals
with Adidas and Olay alone. She has since
signed lucrative contracts with Aviva, Jaguar,
Powerade and British Airways. Its not hard to
understand why the deals are raining in and
designers are falling over themselves to dress

her. Ennis is the ultimate girl nextdoor. She
has a quiet, natural beauty that lingers with
you rather than knocking you off your feet.
Her day-to-day style is simple Im a skinny
jeans girl and even dressed to the nines on
the red carpet, she looks like the kind of girl
you would take home to your mother. Thats
no bad thing: its this lack of pretension in the
way she dresses and carries herself that has
brands transfixed.
But dont be fooled. Behind the sweet smile
is a woman who knows where shes going.
When she first came onto the scene in 2005,
winning gold in the European Athletics Junior
Championships, many doubted she had what
it takes to be a top class heptathlete. In 2.08.65
seconds (the time it took her to complete the
800m, claiming Britains first track and field
gold of the Games), any trace of doubt evaporated.
As the face of TeamGBs Olympics effort for
the past three years, she had both her own
and the nations hopes and dreams in her
hands not an easy burden for a seasoned
pro, let alone a 26-year-old. Its been a relief
being able to relax and not worry that if I
dont do this or I dont train now, Ill let
myself down, let the whole country down.
With the amount of work coming her way,
plus the prospects of further gold on the horizon, dont expect Jessica Ennis, national treasure, unlikely fashion queen, to take her foot
off the pedal for long. b
At Brewin Dolphin, we cant

do our job without knowing
what makes you tick.
So well always invest our time.
Before we invest your money.
At Brewin Dolphin, we believe its essential to

understand whats important to you. Its the
key to creating and managing your bespoke
portfolio. When it comes to your investments,
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FEATURE.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
the Holy
f
o
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a
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r
d
s
y
a
Humanity has alw
andful of
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a
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o
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o
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G rail of etern could achieve it within our
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the men who
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think
LEOPATRA TRIED bathing in milk. Countess

Elizabeth Bthory de Ecsed, the first documented female serial killer, born in 1560,
thought drinking the blood of virgins might
do the trick. Others have scoured the world for
the Holy Grail, or tried to broker pacts with the
devil. Since our species became self aware, it has
dreamed of cheating death and ensnaring eternal
youth. Popular culture is filled with mysterious,
alluring characters who never age, from the ubiquitous
vampire myth to Dorian Gray, with his perfect, youthful
looks (and his dirty secret in the attic). The beauty industry in the
UK is worth 15bn, selling increasingly complicated potions that
promise to postpone or at least mask the onset of the
inevitable. Youth, more than gold or diamonds, is the ultimate luxury. While the average lifespan in the west has rocketed in the last
century largely a result of almost eliminating infant mortality
and deaths in childbirth the upper limit hasnt progressed far
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from the three score years and ten written

about in the Old Testament.
Even worse, while more of us are living
longer, we are no less likely to age. Eternal
youth remains as elusive as ever.
But all is not lost. Monumental leaps in
biology and computer science have led some
scientists to believe the problem may not be
insurmountable. Research is already
underway to slow, or even completely
eradicate, the ageing process and it could
happen within our lifetimes.
There is a growing consensus that the point
at which computers will overtake humans in
terms of intelligence will happen in around 25
years, allowing us to answer a host of practical
and philosophical questions that have been
asked for millennia, including, crucially,
whether consciousness is somehow unique to
biological creatures or simply an element of
intellect. If it is the latter, there is no reason
why we couldnt, in theory, dispense with our
physical bodies altogether, creating new
designer ones, or entire designer worlds, filled
with the kind of opulence we can only dream
of at least for those who can afford it.
This, of course, raises all kinds of impossibly
complicated questions. Is the world big
enough to support a population of human
beings who never age? What affect would it
have on our minds? And, perhaps most
importantly, is this a Pandoras box we really
want to open? For some scientists, the answer
is yes. Here is how they think it might work.
DR AUBREY DE GREY
Founder, SENS Foundation

Route to eternal youth: Medicine
IT IS highly likely that the first person who

will escape ageing indefinitely has already
been born, says 50-year-old Aubrey de Grey.
The question is, will people who are 40 or 50
now make the cut?
Its a bold claim: de Grey believes there is a
50-50 chance of starting to turn the tide of
biological degeneration that leads our bodies
to age and he thinks we might be able to do
it within just 25 years. If youre under 50 and
relatively healthy, those arent bad odds.
I cant stress enough that when I say
defeating ageing, I dont mean living longer
with a biologically old body, he says. Once
we can fix the inside, fixing the outside will be
trivial staying young is the easy bit.
If this is true, why is the scientific
community not shouting from the rooftops
about what would be, perhaps, the greatest
breakthrough in human history?
It is largely a symptom of how people
perceive ageing, says de Grey. Since the dawn
of civilization people have known it is this
terrible, ghastly thing thats going to happen
to them in the relatively distant
Above: A scan of a healthy human

brain. Many scientists believe it could
be only 25 years until it is no longer
the most advanced computing system
on the planet l Left: Scientist Aubrey
de Grey, who is working on a way of
rejuvenating the human body to fix
ageing l Below: A laser etching of
the human brain
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FEATURE .......................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Left: A robot powered by a culture of rat brain cells, which is even able to learn from its
mistakes l Above: Professor Kevin Warwick of the University of Reading, who works in the
field of cybernetics l Below: A human and robot hand touch each other in the void in a
scene reminiscent of God reaching out to touch Adam in the Sistine Chapel
future. And they find ways of putting it out

of their minds. They come up with all these
crazy, irrational ways of doing that, like
thinking of ageing as something that is
different to disease that disease is
something bad that we need to cure but
ageing is natural and normal. This has no
biological basis in fact. The diseases of old
age are just that diseases, which are
brought on by this slow deterioration we call
ageing.
To combat this deterioration, de Grey has
devised seven broad categories of things that
contribute to the ageing process that he says
we need to fix things like replacing cells
that are dead and getting rid of extra cells
that shouldnt be there, which can cause
cancers and other problems.
It is about trying to combat the
accumulation of damage in the body that
eventually leads to ageing by intermittently
repairing it, rather than by trying to tweak
the body so it doesnt create the damage in
the first place. The body is too complicated to
try to prevent the damage youd do more
harm than good. This is what led a lot of
people to get downhearted with the biology
of ageing.
If the body were a car, we wouldnt be
trying to stop the process of rusting wed
just be cleaning it off every year so the doors
dont fall off. The problem is, we need to fix
all seven categories if we just get five or six,
the other one or two will still kill us. In
other words, to continue the car analogy,

there isnt much point repairing everything
except the brakes.
If things go well, 25 years from now we
might be able to keep someone biologically
40 when they are 90 years old. The things the
therapies arent working on will, initially,
stop us from keeping them in the very prime
of youth but you will have that extra 50
years: we will have reached longevity escape
velocity, where the science is progressing
quicker than you can age.
In the medium term, de Grey aims to prove
his theory on mice, by rejuvenating a middleaged mouse and doubling its normal lifespan
(I think were about eight to ten years away
from that).
He gives short shrift to the argument that,
even if it could work, defeating ageing would
lead to a catastrophic explosion in the
population. The carrying capacity of the
planet is not fixed it changes depending on
technology. At least if we develop these
therapies, humanity will have the choice in
the future. No choice is clearly worse.
And will it only be open to the super-rich
the ultimate luxury product?
I dont think so. The average person has
more spent on them in the last year of their
life than in the whole of their life in the
years before. Therapies with the ability to
prevent this will very quickly pay for
themselves. Children will be more
productive because they wont have to look
after their parents. The elderly will be more

productive as they will be contributing to
the economy rather than consuming wealth.
Once these therapies exist, it will be
economically suicidal for any country to not
implement them.
The Sens Foundation is a UK-registered charity.
For more information log on to www.sens.org
KEVIN WARWICK
Professor of cybernetics at the University of Reading

Route to eternal youth: Cybernetics
KEVIN Warwick is a robotics expert who
specialises in the fusion of technology and
biology. He is one of the first people to
successfully transplant living brain cells into
a functioning and completely
autonomous robotic body. The cluster of
around 100,000 rat brain cells were grown in
an incubator dish and mounted in the small
motorised housing. The biological brain
receives information from sensors on the
robot and uses them to navigate its
environment, avoiding walls and even
learning from its mistakes. But can it think?
Is it self aware?
I dont know, says Warwick. I have no
way of asking it. All we know is that it is a
robot with a biological processor. And if we
can do it with a little robot, it is hard to
imagine that we wont eventually be able to
do it with a whole human brain.
This is where cybernetics comes
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FEATURE ................
FASHION BRANDS WILL BENEFIT HUGELY FROM

TRANSHUMANISM. THEY WOULDNT JUST MAKE
YOUR CLOTHES THEY WOULD MAKE EVERYTHING
in, allowing us to build robotic bodies which

could, one day, house our brains. And, just
like we can keep machines functioning for
hundreds of years with the right care and
occasional replacing of parts, this could give
us our first step towards immortality.
I dont think there is an end date for how
long we can keep a brain healthy. We will
soon find out if brain cells can be replaced
maybe with stem cells and if so it could, in
theory, go on living forever. The question is:
do we remain human or do we become
cyborgs? We could give people extra senses or
allow them to talk to one another just by
thinking. We could even upgrade our
intelligence, just like upgrading the
processing power of a computer.
Constructing a body complex enough to
understand the cacophony of impulses
generated by a human brain whose 100bn
cells dwarf the 100,000 in Warwicks robot
is no mean feat. And when it does arrive, it
isnt going to be cheap.
Todays generation of brain implants cost
around $500 to manufacture. But if I then
want to put that into my body Id be looking
at costs of $1m to get a team able to
program it to my particular brain and
another to insert it. It isnt a cheap process
and you dont really want to cut corners
where your brain is involved.
While you wont be able to pick up a Louis
Vuitton-branded robotic body for at least a
few decades, cybernetics is already being used
to improve the quality of peoples lives, with
brain implants that emit electronic signals
being used by neurosurgeons to help mitigate
the effects of diseases like Parkinsons.
Warwick says that, over the next 25 years, a
host of neurological problems will be solved
by technology. Becoming a cyborg may not be
as far-fetched as it sounds.
ANDERS SANDBERG
James Martin research fellow at the Future of Humanity

Institute at Oxford University
Route to eternal youth: Digitisation
ANDERS SANDBERG is an advocate of perhaps
the most radical method of living forever
dispensing with a physical body altogether.
As a transhumanist, he believes there will
almost certainly come a point when we are
able to fully digitise the information stored
on the human brain.
You want to take a brain and get the information out, he says. To do this you would
have to scan it. Scanning a whole, intact
brain, however, is unlikely to work the brain
is enormously complex and all the little

details are incredibly important. Much more
likely is scanning slices of a brain, removed
from all the blood sloshing around it. This
will obviously destroy it so the brain goes in
and data comes out. The initial phase of this
kind of surgery will probably look a bit like
Victorian steam-punk very rudimentary.
Then you need to put that information in a
suitable environment. This is very important
without the right space to properly function,
the information is useless. he says. Think of
the environment as the great, great, great
grandson of Second Life [the online game
where you create an avatar of yourself and
interact with other people]. It would have to
be sensory rich to keep the brain active. Then
there would be the problems of recreating the
other sensations that make us human, like
feeling butterflies in our stomachs without
these you would lose emotional depth.
If this were possible, it would immediately
remove the problem of ageing a digital file
could, if looked after properly, last forever.
Whether the copy could be classed as the same
person, though, or even a person at all, is
another question altogether and it might be

one we have to start thinking seriously about.
We are already working with mice brains,
which hold around two terabytes of data. We
think we can turn that into something we
could run in a simulated environment if we
work a few cells at a time. It wont happen
over the next one or two decades. But after
that
Then we have to work out how much computing power is required to run a human
brain. It will probably be around 2040 when
computers are up to it. Once you are at this
stage, you open up all kinds of possibilities:
you could emulate brains, meaning you
would have back-up copies, vastly reducing
the chance of you every really dying.
There is certainly the economic will for
this. Fashion brands, for example, would
stand to benefit hugely they could control
not only your clothes but your entire image;
face, height, everything.
***
So, should we be cracking out the champagne

and planning how to spend the rest of our
eternal lives? Not quite. Other scientists are
less than convinced by both the practicalities
and ethics of prolonging human life. Colin
Blakemore, professor of neuroscience at the
University of Oxford, points out that, among
a plethora of other issues, death is a vital
ingredient of evolution: if nobody dies, we
stop breeding out weakness. Thankfully, he
says, it almost certainly wont work, even if
we wanted it to.
This, of course, wont stop people like de
Grey from doing his damndest to make it
happen. I cant help hoping he succeeds. b
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FASHION
PEOPLES PERSON
LARRY LEIGHT,
BOSS OF ICONIC
SPECTACLE
MAKER OLIVER
PEOPLES, TELLS
US WHY HE HAS
NO NEED FOR
BRANDING
N MEETING Oliver Peoples chief executive Larry Leight at his

suite at Claridges (his home on this side of the pond), there was
one big question on my mind: was I wearing the right shades?
Since founding the company with his brother, fellow optician
Dennis, the brand has developed the type of cult following that
most companies can only dream of. Everyone from Brad Pitt to
Jay-Z wear its creations, and yet they dont feel overexposed a growing
problem in todays digital age. This is, in part, due to the fact that none
of the frames have logos. The right person for us is someone who
doesnt need to make a statement with their clothing or accessories to
let people know theyre somebody, says Leight. They are already somebody and they are content with that. The collections cater for people who
believe anonymity is the ultimate sign of exclusivity, as opposed to those who
think their position on the social strata is determined by the logo they brandish. Because theres no logo, nobody knows its Oliver Peoples, so we need to
rely on something else. Its all about craftsmanship creating something people will want for a long time. The story of the brands birth is an interesting
one. Leight came across and promptly bought a job lot of mint condition,
vintage American-made eyewear. Nestled among the glasses was a
receipt with the name Oliver Peoples, who Leight assumed was the
original distributor. He decided to keep the name in his honour and
the frames went on to form the basis of the brands debut collection.
Vintage has been a key part of the companys ethos ever since. Now,
twenty-five years on, tapping into old styles means reflecting on its own
history. And, with its quarter-century anniversary in January, the timing
is perfect for a retrospective to mark the occasion; a limited edition collection celebrating iconic Oliver Peoples styles over the years. Who needs
logos when you have all of that? And, for the record, my shades got the
thumbs up. b
By Naomi Mdudu
The 25th anniversary collection is available at Mallon & Taub, 35d Maylebone St, W1U 4PZ
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Santa
BABY
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FASHION ................
We ask top fashion

taste-makers what they
would like to find
under the tree on
Christmas morning.
Cire Trudon has made candles since 1643 and has

supplied French royalty and Napoleon Bonaparte
throughout its storied history. This candles
fragrance is evocative of winter with cinnamon and
clove and is the sort of gift that I would as happily
receive, as I would give.
CIRE TRUDON
Nazareth cinnamon and clove scented candle, 60
mrporter.com
NN.07
Sea wool roll neck sweater 190
mrporter.com
NN.07 are a Copenhagen-based label producing some
lovely contemporary menswear. This rollneck sweater
is made from carefully selected highland wool and is
the sort of garment that becomes an o-duty staple
in the months November through March.
SANTIAGO GONZALEZ
Crocodile cuink set
and box, 185
mrporter.com
Santiago Gonzalez is an incredible craftsman

and produces some of the nest leather goods
in the world. This set comes with four pairs of
leather crafted cuinks, which are unusual and
will certainly be a talking point in the oce.
OKEEFE
Manash polished-suede brogues, 395
mrporter.com
JEREMY
Langmead
The former editor of Wallpaper* and Esquire magazine knows a thing or
two about great menswear. In 2010 he was called upon by Net-A-Porter
boss Natalie Massenet to take the editorial reins at Mr Porter and has
since turned it into the number one digital destination for men.
OKeefe shoes are made in limited batches

in Italy, which is a great starting point for
any shoe. I love that these are washed and
oiled to produce a vintage nish, meaning
they already have a worn feel to them even
when brand new.
ACNE
Wool-tweed jacket, 450
mrporter.com
I really like this jacket as it provides a fresh way to wear
tweed. Its quite short, which gives a modern silhouette
and will work well with either jeans or chinos. Its sure to
become a weekend wardrobe essential.
Interviews by Naomi Mdudu

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FASHION
Daks what I
really want...
The Daks creative director will
be happy finding anything from
Barbara Casasola on
Christmas day
LEICA
MP-9 Camera, 5,395
leica.com
Ive had my eye on this camera for a while. The
craftsmanship is unbelieveable.
FHH ACCESSORIES
Pencil charm necklace, 110
fhhaccessories.com
The necklace is designed

by an upcoming jewellery
designer and it first caught
my eye when I spotted it
on a friend. The designs are
really quirky and
distinctive.
DAKS
Moon bag, 495
daks.com
Our half moon bag in tan is

perfect because it works just as
well in the day time as it does for
socialising in the evening.
SHEILA
McKain-Waid
The American-born designer worked at Donna Karan,
Halsto
and Oscar de la Renta before taking the reigns at the British n
heritage label in 2010. Since joining, shes been praise
d for
adding a contemporary twist to the labels traditional aesthe
tic.
BARBARA CASASOLA
Silk crepe dress, 1,014
avenue32.com
Im a huge fan of
Brazilian-born designer
Barbara Casasola. Her
pieces are timeless classics
and will stand you in good
stead whatever the
season.
My next pair of sunglasses will definitely be these

from Cutler & Gross. Hopefully Ill get a Christmas
holiday in the sun to go with them.
CUTLER & GROSS

0734 Grey Horn, 310
cutlerandgross.com
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FASHION
Mulberry,
Magic...
MULBERRY
Goat fur bomber, 2,500
mulberry.com
Emma Hill lives and

breathes the brand so it
should come as no
surprise that her designs
top her wish list
This bomber in black goat

fur is such an amazing
texture to work with and it
will definitely serve you well
in the winter months.
MULBERRY
Croc print Del Rey, 1,750
mulberry.com
This catwalk Del Rey bag is to die for. The
sparkle croc-print Del Rey is extremely
Christmassy a great gift to give, or receive.
MULBERRY
Bayswater bracelet, 125
mulberry.com
I love the Mulberry Bayswater bracelet. Its
the perfect stocking filler.
MULBERRY
Maisie bag, 1,250
mulberry.com
Im particularly excited about
the newest addition Maisie. The
collection has a heat-moulded
front panel that looks like iconic
Mulberry detailing but with no
hardware, just a shadow of
what should be there.
EMMA
Hill
Since joining Mulberry in 2007, after designing handbags for
the likes of Marc Jacobs and Calvin Klein, Emma has turned
the label into a 1bn business, designing some of the most
sought-after styles around.
MULBERRY
Black lace and leather dress, 2,000
mulberry.com
This is such a stand out piece
for me and definitely makes a
statement. Ill be wearing this
dress a lot.
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FASHION
A very classy
Christmas
The Selfridges menswear
buyer is a sucker for woody
fragrances and plans to cater
for his inner gentleman
STARBUCKS
Coee machine, 379
Selfridges
This is the must have
for coee acionados.
Its Starbucks rst-ever
at-home coee
machine. Ill be very
happy if I nd this under
the tree this year.
CHARVET
Knitted tie, 120
Available exclusively
at Selfridges
SIMON CARTER
Christmas crackers, 150
at Selfridges
We asked brands to
create exclusive
crackers for us this
year and these from
Simon Carter have a
pair of cuinks in
each.
Skinny tie styles

are a top-tip for
oce wear this
season. Charvet
have created some
beautifully knitted
styles exclusively
for Selfridges.
YVES SAINT LAURENT

M7 Oud Absolu crystal edition
fragrance, 275
Available exclusively at Selfridges
ADAM
Kelly
youre a fan of Selfridges
While the name might not ring a bell, if d with his work. As the
ainte
menswear, you are denitely well acqu
le for bringing the best in
senior menswear buyer, Kelly is responsib
oors.
shop
s
menswear to the department store
Yves Saint Laurent

fragrance bottles are always
good but this bottle for the
crystal edition of its M7 Oud
Absolu fragrance really has
the wow factor. As a big fan
of woody fragrances, this is
denitely on my list.
TAYLOR OF OLD BOND STREET

Grooming set, 229,
at Selfridges
This is a classic Christmas
gift and nods to a time when
every man could be an
unashamed gentleman.
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FASHION
ANYA HINDMARCH
Marano Dancer clutch, 495
my-wardrobe.com
The Marano Dancer is the ultimate
investment clutch with an element of fun.
Anyas classic gold clutch has been
embellished with tiny LED lights, which flash
in the dark.
This will fill up

My Wardrobe
for winter...
The founder of the successful online
retailer plans to add to her
collection of Anya Hindmarch bags
SMYTHSON
Croc notebook, 195
my-wardrobe.com
I always love an oversized printed

scarf as it can transform the simplest
of leather jackets or winter coats.
This Weston scarf has such a striking
unusual print and I know
I will keep it for seasons to come.
A Smythson notebook is such a

decadent gift. This seasons purple croc
collection is exquisite a truly
luxurious gift for anyone who likes to
make an impression at work.
WESTON
Silk scarf, 165
my-wardrobe.com
SARAH
C urran
As the head of the leading contemporary onlin
e retailer, Sarah
Curran has some of the best designers at her
fingertips. Pieces
from Weston and Anya Hindmarch top her list.
HANKY PANKY
Lace thongs, 90 (5 pack)
my-wardrobe.com
A friend introduced me to Hanky Panky

lingerie and now I have joined the long line
of devotees. We created this gift set of
coloured lace thongs exclusively for mywardrobe.com shoppers and its right at the
top of my Christmas wish list.
What girl doesnt like beautiful

jewellery? Astley Clarkes collection
is just that. Theyre always
stunning and its delicate friendship
bracelets are a timeless gift.
ASTLEY CLARKE
Friendship bracelet, 195
my-wardrobe.com
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Visit Santas Grotto*
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to Variety, The Childrens Charity.
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FASHION
THE REAL
GANGNAMSTYLE
But there is more to South Korean fashion than Psys trademark

fluorescent suits: it is a hotbed of design talent that is increasingly
coming to the attention of the wider fashion world; from quirky
geek-chic to rugged outdoors wear. Here are three of the hottest
designers to look out for.
Steve Dinneen
BAN KI-MOON, secretary general of the United Nations, recently

quipped that hes no longer the most famous South Korean. That
title, of course, goes to Psy, the pop star who shot to global fame
with Gangnam Style, a satirical look at the pretensions of Seouls
wealthy Gangnam district.
Khaki brogues, 170,

gibmall.com
Quirky enough to
stand out but slick
enough to wear dayto-day, these shoes
are a great find.
CHOI BUMSUK
The designer behind the General Idea label
specialises in outdoor wear, with a line of razorsharp quilted shirts to keep you cosy this winter.
Padded Shirt, 97, gibmall.com

Thick, padded shirt with leather
detailing that will make you stand
out from the crowd.
Winter coat, 225, gibmall.com

Impeccably-crafted, military-inspired winter
jacket. A wardrobe staple.
Cable-knit sweater, 295,

MrPorter.com
A wool jumper of the highest
quality. Essential.
Harris tweed and

leather boots, 565,
MrPorter.com
Pea coat, 710, MrPorter.com
Woven with a touch of
cashmere, this is a sophisticated
cover-up for brisk days.
Hard-wearing lace-up
boots, hand-crafted in
England by Alfred
Sargent.
Check trousers, 200,

steveyoniworld.com
Equally at home on the
golf course or in a bar
in Shoreditch.
STEVE J AND YONI P
Seoul's favourite
fashion couple are
purveyors of all things
geek-chic. Their okilter designs will
ensure you stand out
from the crowd.
WOOYOUNGMI
One of the hottest menswear designers in Korea,

Wooyoungmi takes her inspiration from architecture
and has scooped several awards for her work.
Navy cardigan, 200,

steveyoniworld.com
Real men wear
cardigans. Get in touch
with your inner
grandpa in this stylish
take on the classic
look.
Quilted leather jacket, 630,

steveyoniworld.com
For all your leather jacket needs.
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JEWELLERY ..........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
Bespoke jewellery allows you

to oversee the design process,
from initial sketches to
finished product
MADE toMEASURE
OR SOME, owning fine
jewellery isnt enough: they
want to design it, too. After all, who
wouldnt want their most treasured items to be
different from everyone elses? For those
discerning read: wealthy buyers, there are a
host of companies willing to help you create that
special piece.
While many brands are only just catching on to the
idea, its a service Astley Clarke has long provided. Its
bespoke service starts off with a special consultation in the
decadent surroundings of the companys salon. This is where
you share ideas, inspiration and references with the brands
creative director Lorna Watson, jewellery designer Angela
Mehew and head of bespoke orders Anna Louise Plumb. With
more than 20 years in the jewellery industry working at brands
including De Beers, Dior and Burberry, Watson knows a thing
or two about jewellery. So you can rely on her to keep you on
the straight and narrow if you start getting carried away.
On the second meeting, you will be presented with a
selection of gemstones before the final design is sketched.
When the piece is finished it will be gift-wrapped and presented,

alongside the sketches to document the process.
And the bespoke experience doesnt have to end there. Gone are
the days when newly engaged couples had to opt for a traditional
cut diamond for that all-important ring. Now its all about having a
style that is literally a cut above the rest: high flyers are increasingly
forking out for trademarked cuts a uniquely-shaped diamond that
nobody else is allowed to copy to make sure their partners are
sporting a piece that is truly one of a kind. Naomi Mdudu b
eveningwear to
make you stand out
from the
crowd
Dress, 3,990, Viktor & Rolf

available at Ricci Burns
Dress, 14,340, Valentino, valentino.com

Shoes, 890, Valentino, valentino.com
Bag, 1,890, Zagliani, 020 7235 4124
Necklace, 769, Jean Paul Gaultier
at SWAROVSKI CRYSTALLIZED, swarovski-crystallized.com
Necklace, 95,000 Bentley & Skinner, bentley-skinner.co.uk

Dress, 1,517, Oscar de la Renta, theoutnet.com
Dress, 3,950, Tom Ford, available at Harrods

Shoes, 650, Tom Ford, available at Harrods
Bracelet, price on request, Lucie Campbell, luciecampbell.com
Ring, 4,750, Bentley & Skinner, bentley-skinner.co.uk
Fashion editor: Naomi Mdudu

Photographer: Jonathan Daniel Pryce, jonathandanielpryce.com
Model: Beth Leader at Elite London
Hair: Lucie Oliver at dollygoesdancing.co.uk using Fudge
Make-up: Laura Pye, Givenchy London, using Givenchy
Lively Lips Collection. Stockist: Harrods 0207 730 1234
Photographers assistant: Dominic Alari
All photographs taken at The Ritz Club
Necklace, price on request, Harry Winston, 0207 907 8800

Ring, 4,750, Bentley & Skinner, bentley-skinner.co.uk
Bracelet, price on request, Lucie Campbell, luciecampbell.com
Dress, 2,205, Marchesa, theoutnet.com
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WATCHES
WATCH WHAT YOU

INCE WERE heading into the
party season, heres a list of the
things that will sabotage a gents
black tie ensemble. One: hiring your
tux. No excuse. If youre prepared to
attend the smartest events of the
year in a suit generously designed to
fit Quasimodo, then get thee to a
middle management conference and
stop reading, because theres no hope for
you. Two: wing collars. They were a bad idea in
1988, theyre a much worse idea now, and about as
suave as Michael Eaviss beard. Three: look, just learn
to tie it. Same as a shoelace, but round your neck
hardly rocket science.
And number four is your watch. Ahead of shoes,
and ahead even of abjuring zany party cufflinks.
Theres little point in getting numbers 1-3 right before
sticking out your hand to reveal a chunky, rubberstrapped digital disaster or rugged sports watch that
you think projects man of action but really says
Action Man (the toy). Black tie is about
understatement and refinement. The traditional idea
is that the chap should act as an elegant background
for his lady to shine against. Even if youre just with
colleagues rather than your beloved, thats still a good
rule of thumb, and particularly when it comes to
watch choice. The classic dress watch for formal
occasions is Patek Philippes Calatrava the simplest
line of watches in the Patek range. Even if youre
several bonuses and a lottery win short of a Patek, the
Calatrava is a blueprint for everything a dress watch
should be: classical in design, simple in function and
as slim as possible. Even normal Arabic numerals are
considered OTT Roman numerals or simple baton
hour markers keep things paired-down and crisp. This
being a special occasion watch, however, there should
be an air of luxury too, which in an ideal world means
a gold case.
In other words, this is the classic watch. It is the
heirloom, the watch to pass on to your son, the
investment piece. It is your senior wristwatch. While a
dress watch doesnt have to be just for black tie
occasions, a sports watch simply cannot be for black
tie occasions. So if you only own one watch, it should
be a dress watch. Just dont wear it with a wing collar,
I beg you. For all its ubiquity, a chronograph a
stopwatch function is still a highly complicated
mechanism in a mechanical watch. Its why chronos
are normally much thicker than time-only pieces
theres an awful lot more to stuff into the movement.
Which means that even more complicated variants on
the chronograph carry prestige. The monopusher, in
which a single button in the crown starts, stops and
resets the stopwatch, is a classic variant which has
been introduced as a limited edition by British-based
company Christopher Ward. Its a big watch, but
elegant, with a huge window in the caseback to see
the rather lovely hand-wound movement, put
together by hand in Switzerland by Wards technical
brainbox, Johannes Jahnke. Young Mr Jahnke is
making 250 versions, at 2,450 a pop impressive
value for an unusual watch. b
See christopherward.co.uk for more information.
Timothy Barber
Ralph Lauren Slim Classique

Its not always the way with watches from fashion
houses, but Ralph Laurens pieces reflect the designers
tastes and ooze class. Theyre also well-made, with
movements from top Richemont Group brands like
Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC and Piaget. This ultra-slim piece
has a stunning guilloche dial with a pattern that
extends beautifully across the case of the watch itself,
and was designed with black tie events in mind.
10,400 ralphlaurenwatches.com
IWC Portofino Automatic

The Portofino range by IWC is all about simplicity,
balance and subtlety, and its that nicely rounded
case that makes this piece a real winner, as well as
the retro bracelet. Equally at home sitting in the
sun in some luxurious Mediterranean retreat as
complimenting a well-cut tuxedo, its an allrounder of a watch, and as debonair as Don
Drapers pocket square.
4,000 iwc.com
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WEAR WITH A TUX

Zenith Heritage Ultra Thin
Amazing fact: Zenith has been making watches in the
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Chopard Classic Manufacture

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classic in every way.
9,240 chopard.com
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MOTORS ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................
The wild, wonderful tale of the
Bentley Boys
They were young, rich and
completely fearless. If you could
keep up, says Ryan Borro,
you were in for one hell of a
ride. They were the Bentley
Boys and this is their story.
WHEN BENTLEY unleashes its Continental GT3

racer next year, it will be the first time for
generations that owners will be able to join a
Bentley racing team. This raises the mouthwatering prospect we could be looking at a whole
new generation of Bentley Boys; flamboyant,
wealthy and talented gentlemen racers of an ilk
not seen since the roaring twenties.
Unless you know about the Bentley Boys, you cant fully appreciate
Bentley Motors. When WO Bentley started building cars back in 1920 he
was shrewd enough to realise that the best way to demonstrate to
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BENTLEY ATTRACTED PLAYBOYS AND HEDONISTS,

GENTLEMEN RACERS WHO CRAVED THE
ADRENALINE THEYD EXPERIENCED IN THE WAR
potential buyers that his cars were rugged and

robust was to race them.
The gents who owned the first Bentleys
were rich, decadent and bored. They
approached the emerging golden age of
motoring as their childrens generation would
strive to adventure into space. There was an
air of optimism. Anything, it seemed, was
possible. Bentleys cars attracted aristocrats,
playboys and hedonists, gentlemen racers
who craved the adrenaline theyd experienced
in The Great War, and who gravitated to
Bentley because it was the best.
These were often larger than life
characters... well known to the public and the
social icons of the day, says Richard
Charlesworth, head of the Bentley Heritage
Collection. Whatever they got up to was
newsworthy. They had a reputation for a devilmay-care, very competitive attitude that
rubbed off on the cars as well.
It was their sense of fun, adventure and a
desire to push the limits that makes them so
important, adds Paul Jones, head of product
management at Bentley Motors. With their
style and flair, men like Birkin, Barnato, Davis
and Duff made Bentley a dominant force on
the track. They were the original generation
of dashing British drivers who mixed bravery
and brilliance in equal measure.
Even their names were rakish. Woolf Babe
Barnato inherited his fathers diamond
fortune at a very young age. He became a very
accomplished racing driver and won at Le
Mans three times, a record yet to be broken.
He later invested in the Bentley company,
saving it from bankruptcy and became its
chairman in 1926. Sir Henry Tim Birkin
was an ex Royal Flying Corps fighter
ace from the First World War and a
very accomplished driver. It was
Birkin who developed the
supercharged 4.5-litre Blower
Bentley with his own money
and against WO Bentleys wishes
to fend off the threat of the
supercharged Kompressor
Mercedes. Dr J Dudley Benjy
Benjafield nicknamed The
Bald Chemist was a bacteriologist by day

and one of the few Bentley Boys who worked
for a living. He raced cars for fun and was so
good behind the wheel of his Bentley 3.0-litre
that WO invited him to race for the company.
The wealthiest was Glen Kidston. A former
submarine commander in the Royal Navy on
one eventful day in 1914 he was torpedoed
three times in the same morning he was a
record-breaking aviator as well as a talented
motor racing driver. Meanwhile, SCH
Sammy Davis was a racer and journalist
he was sports editor of The Autocar and
John Duff was a Canadian racing driver who
had begun his career racing at Brooklands.
The only one who wasnt born into a
wealthy family, Frank Clement, was WOs test
driver. Admired for his driving skills, he
achieved Bentleys first racing success,
winning in EXP2 at Brooklands.
This cast of characters were all united by
their love of speed and the cut of a fine suit.
When it came to racing they were fiercely
competitive.
These were guys who were very
independently-spirited but pulled together to
create an unbeatable team, says
Charlesworth. When they won races or
achieved speed records, reports of these
exploits would be front page news. They were
very much the heroes of the day.
In 1929 Bentley dominated Le Mans (it was
placed 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th). But even then
the Bentley Boys won in style.
The team orders where to not show the
full potential of the new Speed Six car that
went on to win, explains Charlesworth.
But the drivers didnt like that and
said they wanted to go flat out.
One of the drivers suggested
that if he had to go at
anything less than full
throttle then he would
stop off and have a drink
on the way. When he was
told to obey orders, this
was what he did. He
stopped off and had a glass
of champagne, then
rejoined the race and carried on. Bentley was

the team manager and could influence their
behaviour [but] they were stubborn and in
many cases they owned the cars they were
driving.
These guys lived life in the fast lane. They
raced hard and partied hard. There was a
corner in Grosvenor Square known as
Bentley Corner where they all had their
London apartments. It was said the police
used to turn a blind eye to the parties there.
They used to drive their cars to Le Mans... stop
off at Leeds castle the home of Dorothy
Paget, a sponsor of the race team for a black
tie dinner, then drive on to the race, win it
and drive back again.
The personalities, racing successes and
lifestyle of the fabulous Bentley Boys helped
put the company on the map. But their
involvement wasnt planned, it evolved (it
was the media, for example, who named
them).
Through their exploits, the Bentley Boys
helped WO Bentley perfect his no
compromise way of building road cars. At a
time when, as writer Anthony Bird put it,
racing car engines were built on air and
optimism, with designers concerned
primarily with making large engines as
lightweight as possible, WOs approach was
to improve performance by adding more
capacity. His philosophy was that you have a
big capacity engine operating at fairly low
revs and producing maximum power at low
revs so that the engine is never really
stressed. He didnt agree with putting an
engine under greater pressure, says
Charlesworth.
And so they remain: Bentleys today are still
big, fast and bloody loud there really is no
other car quite like it.
The Bentley Boys, too, are still doing their
bit: Our customers like the fact they are
buying into this bloodline, says
Charlesworth. They love the stories and the
pedigree. They love its wonderful
provenance its one of the reasons they buy
a Bentley, this attitude that you live life to the
full, that you work hard and play hard. b
Left: Sir Henry Tim Birkin, a

former WWI fighter ace who
blazed a trail in his
supercharged Blower Bentley
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PEOPLE
Lucy
ME, MYSELF AND I
Porter
THE LIFE AND TIMES OF A STAND-UP COMIC
How high fashion

let me down
As a lapsed Catholic, all pleasures are guilty for me but,

nonetheless, I still get annoyed when people say their
guilty pleasure is a song thats a bit naff, rather than, say,
an obscure sexual peccadillo that even the Marquis de Sade
would have baulked at).
Reading about the Valentino exhibition reminded me of
when I finally had some clothes made specifically for my
diminutive frame, for my wedding day. I already owned a
vintage, ivory corset that Id bought from a sex shop in
Edinburgh (every bride should wear at least one item
bought in a sex shop it takes care of the something blue)
so I just needed a skirt to go with it.
A friend recommended Claire Pickens, who found this
incredible chiffon fabric, gathered it up into a swirling rose
pattern, and fashioned a skirt out of it. Pickens normally
designs clothes for burlesque dancers and, in hindsight, I
may have looked
less like I was
preparing to make
a lifelong
commitment, and
more like I was
about to take my
knickers off in an
oversized
champagne glass.
But the
lusciousness of the fabric and the thrill of uniqueness made
me realise just what people see in haute couture. On my
honeymoon I read Paul Gallicos comic novel Mrs Arris
goes to Paris. Its the story of a 1950s charlady who sees
designer dresses in the wardrobe of one of her clients and
dreams of owning one.
Mrs Arris travels to the house of Dior to buy a dress
called Temptation. Gallico writes: It was as
though all she had missed in life through
poverty, the circumstances of her birth and class
in life could be made up by becoming the holder
of this one glorious bit of feminine finery
Thats kind of how I feel about seeing the
wedding dress that Valentino made for MarieChantal, crown princess of Greece. Like the
Greeks, I certainly wont be able to afford one
any time soon but, like Mrs Arris, Im happy to
go to Somerset House and dream. b
S A FLESHY, five-foot-nothing gal, my only

personal brush with the world of high
fashion was crushing. I was invited to do a
photo shoot for Vogue a few years ago as part
of a talent to watch feature. I leafed
excitedly through the high-end sample rail,
only to see the stylists shaking their heads.
Nothing fitted. I ended up being
photographed in the dress Id arrived in.
Disappointed look: models own.
It made it easy to be a bit sneery about the fashion world:
Its for tall, gangly people, not for me. This view is
reinforced by popular culture. Most of the really great
movies about the beau monde have suggested there is a
moral vacuum at the heart of it. Funny Face, The Devil
Wears Prada, and (my personal favourite) Zoolander, have all
poked fun at
designers and models,
despite the public
appetite for looking at
nice frocks and shoes.
Admittedly, the
fashion world doesnt
do itself any favours.
From the outside
looking in, it is hard
to believe that
Victoria Beckham, Sean P Diddy Coombes and Kanye West
are natural costumiers, no matter how spectacular their
creations. My snooty brain is like Kiplings devil,
whispering behind the leaves its pretty, but is it art?
Every celebrity now seems to release their own
fashion line within the first five of their fifteen
minutes of fame. Youd be forgiven for thinking
that becoming a designer just involves
scribbling a pretty stick lady on the
back of a napkin at the Groucho and
shouting: Get that into New Look by
Monday.
High fashion, though, remains something
of a guilty pleasure, and I cant wait to check
out Valentino: Master of Couture at Somerset
House (incidentally, one of the most
irritating developments of recent times is
the overuse of the phrase guilty pleasure.
EVERY BRIDE SHOULD

WEAR SOMETHING FROM
A SEX SHOP. IT TAKES
CARE OF SOMETHING BLUE
The race is on. Join us at

Epsom Downs Racecourse,
31 May 1 June 2013.
investec.com/derby
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@investec
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REINVENT
YOURSELF
RENDEZ-VOUS NIGHT & DAY

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 967A
Every woman has a Rendez-Vous, with herself.
The Rendez-Vous Night & Day timepiece is
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YOU DESERVE A REA L WATCH
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CITYA.M.

ISSUE 2 | DECEMBER 2012

as youve never seen her before

Mens fashion week u Watches

How to live forever u Bentley Boys

Engineered for men who

Two impressive red lines.

To find out more visit www.porsche.co.uk/redlines

A RACING MACHINE ON THE WRIST

Philip Glass in his 75th year; why Roy Lichtenstein

How does it feel?

Ewan McGregors travelling buddy Charlie

All I want for Xmas 40.

Tis the season for glorious ball gowns. From

See Britains top designers including Patrick

The star of the London Olympics on how

If you have gone to the trouble of wearing a

The Bentley Boys 56.

Cover image: Lancton/Camera Press

The forever men

Peoples tells us why his company has no

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 7

ESIDES HIS standing as

barriers between classical and popular

Tyondai Braxton. Also telling: it was

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 9

Lichtenstein: A Retrospective opens at the

Making the unmakeable

gestate, to grow into creatures so

10 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

with Classics Manufacture

HOW MUMFORD AND

Mumford and Sons will play the O2 Arena on 14 December.

12 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

IT IS A DECADE SINCE THE

THIS YEAR, John Copley celebrated his 50th

HOW HOBBITS CHANGED

leading up to the films release, The

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 13

How does it feel...

T WAS pure, abject terror I was sure we

16 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

ENSWEAR IS doing well. So

18 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

Portraits by Laura Lean

designer Lou Doulton.

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 19

20 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 21

22 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

24 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

TOM FORD is coming to town. In

26 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

From golden girl to style queen:

ADORE Victoria Beckham and

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 27

From golden girl to style queen:

ADORE Victoria Beckham and

December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke | 27

Clockwise from far

group of loyal fans committed to the sport,

28 | December 2012 | CITY A.M. bespoke

giving too much away, she quickly returns to