internal-combustion engine

Cross section showing one cylinder of a four-stroke internal-combustion engine. In the first stroke (shown), a cam (left) compresses a valve spring, opening the intake valve to admit the fuel-air mixture to the cylinder. Both valves then close, the mixture is compressed by the piston, and current is sent to the spark plug. Ignited by the spark plug, the burning mixture forces the piston down, producing power to turn the crankshaft and run the car. Another cam (right) opens the exhaust valve and the burned exhaust gases exit.

Merriam-Webster Inc. Related Articles: internal-combustion engine (Britannica Concise Encyclopedia) Any engine in which a fuel-air mixture is burned in the engine proper so that the hot gaseous products of combustion act directly on the surfaces of its moving parts, such as those of pistons (see piston and cylinder) or turbine rotor blades.

An internal-combustion engine goes through four strokes: intake, compression, combustion (power), and exhaust. As the piston moves during each stroke, it turns the crankshaft.

The innards of an internal combustion engine can be very intriguing, especially if you are trying to find the correct replacement parts for a particular engine. The auto makers are constantly redesigning internal engine parts not only from one model year to the next but even within a given model year. So you may need a VIN number as well as the year, make, model and engine size to correctly identify the application. What parts the engine needs is the next concern. There are two approaches to major engine repair: piecemeal and complete. The piecemeal approach is to fix only that which is broken and leave the rest alone. The underlying motivation here is primarily economic. The vehicle and/or engine may not be worth spending much money on, so only those parts that absolutely have to be replaced to keep the engine running are replaced. Other repairs can wait for the next owner or the junkyard. This approach may skimp on needed machine work and attempt to "make do" with standard sized replacement parts such as bearings, rings, pistons and valves. The other approach is to do a complete overhaul when the engine needs major repairs. This is obviously the more expensive approach, but one that usually provides much longer-lasting results. By replacing major wear components such as the rings, pistons, bearings, oil pump, valve guides, exhaust valves, valve springs, timing chain or belt, etc., the engine is restored to "like-new" condition and should deliver another 60,000 or more miles before repairs are needed again. This approach may involve the purchase of an engine kit or buying the parts individually. It usually also requires machine work such as turning the crank, overboring the cylinders, refacing the valves and seats, resurfacing the cylinder head(s), and maybe align boring or honing an overhead cam head and/or the main bores in the block. Of course, there are shades of gray between these two, also. An engine may need a valve job but also has some wear in the cylinders. It is a judgment call as to whether it is worth it or not to do both. In some cases, the improved compression that comes from the valve work may increase blowby into the crankcase if the rings and cylinders are worn. The important point here is to decide what parts may be needed to fix a particular engine problem, and then to replace any additional parts that might be needed.

ENGINE BEARINGS
Let's start with bearings. Common reasons for replacement include noise and low oil pressure. If a bearing has seized or spun, it will take more than a new set of bearings to fix the problem. The crankshaft journal will likely have suffered damage so turning the crank to undersize will probably be necessary. The big end of the connecting road may also be damaged or out-ofround which will require reconditioning the rod or replacing it. Replacement bearings come in standard as well as various undersizes, so rule number one is to make sure the bearing size matches the crank journals. Typical undersizes include .010, .020 and .030 inch., which are usually marked on the back of the bearing shell. To determine the correct size if the crank has not been turned, the diameters of the rod and main journals on the crank must be measured with a micrometer. Machinists will usually mark the journal size on the crank if the crank has been reground. Bearing clearances should always be measured when the bearings are installed to make sure they have the correct fit. The old bearings will often tell a story as to why they failed. If the bearings are full of scratches and abrasion, dirt and/or a lack of adequate lubrication probably played a role in their demise. Lack of proper maintenance (not changing the oil and filter often enough) may be the real culprit. A worn oil pump and/or clogged oil pump pickup screen may also have been factors, so these parts should also be inspected and replaced if necessary. Use assembly lube when installing new bearings to protect the bearings and journals until the engine can be fired up. Dry starts ruin a lot of newly installed bearings, so priming the oil system prior to cranking the engine (if possible) can reduce this risk.

PISTONS & PISTON RINGS

Pistons and rings may have to be replaced if a compression test reveals the rings are not holding a good seal. Taper, distortion or damage in the cylinder bores can be factors, too. Worn rings and/or cylinders will allow a lot of blowby into the crankcase. This reduces power, increases fuel consumption and emissions, and contributes to sludge formation as well as oil dilution (both of which are bad for the bearings). Broken rings and/or cracked pistons are usually the result of detonation (spark knock), which may have a variety of underlying causes (no EGR, overadvanced ignition timing, a buildup of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber, cheap gas, engine overheating, etc.). Either of these conditions will also increase blowby and oil consumption. Replacement rings come in various types, styles and sizes. Standard size rings are okay if the cylinders are not worn excessively (which requires measuring taper with a cylinder bore gauge). Oversized rings are required if the cylinders are worn and are bored to oversize. Ring size will also depend on the pistons used (shallow groove or deep groove as well as groove height). Most late model engines have "low tension" piston rings that are thinner and narrower to reduce internal friction. Some are as small as 1.2 mm but the most common size is 1.5 mm. Rings designed for standard grooves must not be used in shallow groove pistons, nor should narrow rings be used in deep groove pistons. Chevrolet in particular has used a variety of different piston and ring combinations on some of its engines, so make sure the parts are properly matched. The ring material as well as the facing (chrome or moly) should match the original application or be a suitable substitute for the original rings. Some high output and turbocharged engines use steel or ductile iron rings rather than plain cast iron rings. Rings are sometimes damaged by improper installation. A ring expander should be used to mount the rings on the pistons. This will minimize the risk of breaking or twisting the rings. A ring compressor will be needed to install the pistons in the block. Cylinder bores must also be properly reconditioned when the rings are replaced, which means honing the bores or using a glaze breaker according to the ring manufacturer recommendations. The finish and crosshatch in the cylinder bores must match the requirements of the rings that are used (moly requires a smoother finish than chrome or plain cast iron). The cylinders must also be cleaned after honing or deglazing (scrubbing with soapy water works best) prior to engine reassembly. A light coat of oil is needed to lubricate the new rings. Pistons may have to be replaced if worn or damaged, or if the cylinders are bored to oversize to compensate for wear. The type of replacement pistons that will be needed will depend on the engines compression ratio, the size of the bores (standard or oversize) and how the engine will be used (normal service or severe service). Maintaining the stock compression ratio is the best advice because too much compression can lead to engine damaging detonation. Some engines today have compression ratios of up to 10:1, which is possible with EFI and computerized engine controls. But for older engines, compression should be limited to 9:1. Most stock pistons are made of cast aluminum, but stronger hypereutectic pistons are used in many late model engines. Hypereutectic pistons are made of an aluminum alloy that contains a higher amount of silicon than ordinary cast pistons. Silicon improves hardness and wear resistance. For performance applications and diesels, forged pistons are usually required.

CAM DRIVES, TIMING CHAINS & BELTS

Another wear component in the block is the cam drive, be it a set of gears or a timing chain. Chains stretch with age, which retards valve and ignition timing to adversely affect engine performance. If the chain jumps one ore more teeth, it may be hard to start or run poorly. If it

breaks, the engine won't run at all and may suffer valve damage if there is insufficient valve-topiston clearance for the engine to freewheel. Timing gears with nylon coated teeth may become brittle with age and disintegrate. Timing chains are always sold with new gears because both wear out. But something you may need that is not included with a timing chain and gear set is a new front seal for the crankshaft, and/or a key for the crankshaft sprocket. Offset keys are also available for fine tuning cam timing. On overhead cam engines with a rubber timing belt, the recommended replacement interval is 60,000 miles. Many people don't know this or put it off too long with disastrous results. A broken timing belt can cause bent valves if the pistons hit the valves. So always replace the timing belt in a high mileage engine.

CAMSHAFT & LIFTERS

Moving on to the cam and lifters, failures here are fairly common, too. Sometimes a cam will wipe out a lobe because of a lubrication problem. The result is a dead cylinder because the affected valve is not opening. Cams can also break or seize, as is the case in many overhead cam engines that lose their coolant and overheat. If an Overhead cam head warps, it may bend, break or seize the cam. If you want to install a "hotter" cam (higher lift & more duration for more power), do not make the mistake of "overcamming" the engine. Always follow the cam manufacturers recommendations. Increasing lift and duration too much in an attempt to up the horsepower may create driveability problems by moving the engine's power curve too far up the rpm scale. The stock fuel system, heads and valves may also not be able to handle the hotter cam, so these parts too may need to be replaced or modified with performance parts. Regardless of what type of replacement cam is installed, all pushrod cams (except those with roller lifters) should be installed with new lifters. Reusing old flat bottom lifters can wipe out the lobes on a new cam. The lobes must also be coated with assembly lube to protect the cam during the critical engine break-in period.

VALVES
New valve springs are also recommended for a new cam, particularly a performance cam. Weak valve springs can allow valve float at higher rpms, limiting the power potential of the engine. Any valve spring that does not meet specs (height or pressure) should be replaced. If an engine needs valve work, it is usually because of low compression. As an engine accumulates mileage, the valves and seats wear. This can lead to compression leaks as well as valve overheating that causes exhaust valves to burn. The engine may also be using oil because the valve guides are worn. Oil being sucked down the guides can foul spark plugs and create heavy carbon deposits on the backs of intake valves and inside combustion chambers. When a head is given a valve job, the valves and seats are refaced to restore a tight seal. Individual valves may have to be replaced if the stems are badly worn, the face is too thin or there is any damage. Exhaust valves are sometimes replaced regardless of their condition to minimize the risk of future problems such as breakage or burning. If seats cannot be refaced due to wear or damage, replacement is necessary. Valve guides usually have to be replaced or reconditioned. Options here include pressing out the old guides and installing new ones in heads that have replaceable guides (cast iron or bronze), reaming the old guides to oversize to accept new valves or ones with replated stems (used primarily on heads with integral guides), relining the old guides with bronze liners, or knurling.

OTHER ENGINE PARTS

Other engine parts that may be needed include a new oil pressure sending unit, a new thermostat, oil, oil filter, antifreeze, gaskets and fasteners. Head bolts that are the torque-toyield type should not be reused because they stretch when tightened and may break if reused. The motor mounts should also be checked to make sure they are in good condition when any engine work is done. The mounts support the engine and transmission or transaxle, and help dampen noise and vibration to isolate the powertrain from the rest of the vehicle. The mounts also maintain engine alignment in front-wheel drive cars and minivans with transverse-mounted engines. A loose or broken mount can allow engine movement, misalignment and noise.

4-Stroke Internal Combustion Engine

Glenn Re se arc h Ce nte r

This is an animated computer drawing of one cylinder of the Wright brothers' 1903 aircraft engine. This engine powered the first, heavier than air, self-propelled, maneuverable, piloted aircraft; the Wright 1903 Flyer. The engine consisted of four cylinders like the one shown above, with each piston connected to a common crankshaft. The crankshaft was connected to two counter-rotating propellers which produced the thrust necessary to overcome the drag of the aircraft. The brothers' design is very simple by today's standards, so it is a good engine for students to study to learn the fundamentals of engine operation. This type of internal combustion engine is called a four-stroke engine because there are four movements, or strokes, of the piston before the entire engine firing sequence is repeated. The four strokes are described below with some still figures. In the animation and in all the figures, we have colored the fuel/air intake system red, the electrical system green, and the exhaust system blue. We also represent the fuel/air mixture and the exhaust gases by small colored balls to show how these gases move through the engine. Since we will be referring to the movement of various engine parts, here is a figure showing the names of the parts:

Intake Stroke The engine cycle begins with the intake stroke as the piston is pulled towards the crankshaft (to the left in the figure).

The intake valve is open, and fuel and air are drawn past the valve and into the combustion chamber and cylinder from the intake manifold located on top of the combustion chamber. The exhaust valve is closed and the electrical contact switch is open. The fuel/air mixture is at a relatively low pressure (near atmospheric) and is colored blue in this figure. At the end of the intake stroke, the piston is located at the far left and begins to move back towards the right.

The cylinder and combustion chamber are full of the low pressure fuel/air mixture and, as the piston begins to move to the right, the intake valve closes. Historical note - The opening and closing of the intake valve of the Wright 1903 engine was termed "automatic" by the brothers. It relies on the slightly lower pressure within in the cylinder during the intake stroke to overcome the strength of the spring holding the valve shut. Modern internal combustion engines do not work this way, but use cams and rocker arms like the brothers' exhaust system. Cams and rocker arms provide better control and timing of the opening and closing of the valves. Compression Stroke With both valves closed, the combination of the cylinder and combustion chamber form a completely closed vessel containing the fuel/air mixture. As the piston is pushed to the right, the volume is reduced and the fuel/air mixture is compressed during the compression stroke.

During the compression, no heat is transferred to the fuel/air mixture. As the volume is decreased because of the piston's motion, the pressure in the gas is increased, as described by the laws of thermodynamics. In the figure, the mixture has been colored yellow to denote a moderate increase in pressure. To produce the increased pressure, we have to do work on the mixture, just as you have to do work to inflate a bicycle tire using a pump. During the compression stroke, the electrical contact is kept opened. When the volume is the smallest, and

the pressure the highest as shown in the figure, the contact is closed, and a current of electricity flows through the plug. Power Stroke At the beginning of the power stroke, the electrical contact is opened. The sudden opening of the contact produces a spark in the combustion chamber which ignites the fuel/air mixture. Rapid combustion of the fuel releases heat, and produces exhaust gases in the combustion chamber.

Because the intake and exhaust valves are closed, the combustion of the fuel takes place in a totally enclosed (and nearly constant volume) vessel. The combustion increases the temperature of the exhaust gases, any residual air in the combustion chamber, and the combustion chamber itself. From the ideal gas law, the increased temperature of the gases also produces an increased pressure in the combustion chamber. We have colored the gases red in the figure to denote the high pressure. The high pressure of the gases acting on the face of the piston cause the piston to move to the left which initiates the power stroke.

Unlike the compression stroke, the hot gas does work on the piston during the power stroke. The force on the piston is transmitted by the piston rod to the crankshaft, where the linear motion of the piston is converted to angular motion of the crankshaft. The work done on the piston is then used to turn the shaft, and the propellers, and to compress the gases in the

neighboring cylinder's compression stroke. Having produced the igniting spark, the electrical contact remains opened. During the power stroke, the volume occupied by the gases is increased because of the piston motion and no heat is transferred to the fuel/air mixture. As the volume is increased because of the piston's motion, the pressure and temperature of the gas are decreased. We have colored the exhaust "molecules" yellow to denote a moderate amount of pressure at the end of the power stroke.

Historical note - The method of producing the electrical spark used by the Wright brothers is called a "make and break" connection. There are moving parts located inside the combustion chamber. Modern internal combustion engines do not use this method, but instead use a spark plug to produce the ignition spark. A spark plug has no moving parts, which is much safer than the method used by the brothers. Exhaust Stroke At the end of the power stroke, the piston is located at the far left. Heat that is left over from the power stroke is now transferred to the water in the water jacket until the pressure approaches atmospheric pressure. The exhaust valve is then opened by the cam pushing on the rocker arm to begin the exhaust stroke.

The purpose of the exhaust stroke is to clear the cylinder of the spent exhaust in preparation for another ignition cycle. As the exhaust stroke begins, the cylinder and combustion chamber are full of exhaust products at low pressure (colored blue on the figure above.) Because the exhaust valve is open, the exhaust gas is pushed past the valve and exits the engine. The intake valve is closed and the electrical contact is open during this movement of the piston.

At the end of the exhaust stroke, the exhaust valve is closed and the engine begins another intake stroke. Historical note - The exhaust system used by the Wright brothers caused the hot exhaust to exit each cylinder independently ... right next to the pilot. This engine was very loud as well. Modern automobiles collect the exhaust from all of the cylinders into an exhaust manifold (just like the intake manifold used by the brothers). The exhaust manifold passes the exhaust to the catalytic converter to remove dangerous gases, and then through the muffler to keep it quiet, and finally out the exhaust pipe. You should now be able to make some sense from the animation at the top of this page. Notice that the crankshaft makes two revolutions for every one revolution of the cams. This motion is controlled by the timing chain. Also notice how the cam moves the exhaust valve at just the right time and how quickly the intake valve opens after the exhaust valve is closed. In real engine operation, the exhaust stroke can not push all of the exhaust out of the cylinder, so a real engine doesn't perform as well as the ideal engine described on this page. As the engine runs and heats up, the performance changes. Modern automobile engines adjust the fuel/air ratio with computer controlled fuel injectors to maintain high performance. The brothers just had to watch the horsepower of their engine drop from about 16 horsepower when the engine was first started to about 12 horsepower when it was running hot. Picture 3: Internal Combustion Engine

Crankshaft As the pistons collectively might be regarded as the heart of the engine, so the crankshaft (fig. 3-40) may be considered its backbone. The crankshaft is the part of the engine that transforms the reciprocating motion of the piston to rotary motion. It transmits power through the flywheel, the clutch, the transmission, and the differential to drive your vehicle. Crankshafts are made from forged or cast steel. Forged steel is the stronger of the two and is used in commercial and military engines. The cast unit is primarily used in lightand regular-duty gasoline engines. After the rough forging or casting is produced, it becomes a finished product by going through the following steps: 1. Each hole is located and drilled. 2. Each surface is rough machined 3. The crankshaft, with the exception of the bearing journals, is plated with alight coating of copper. 4. The bearing journals are case-hardened. 5. The bearing journals are ground to size.

6. Threads are cut into necessary bolt holes. Crank throw arrangements for four-, six-, and eight-cylinder engines are shown in figure 3-41. The arrangements of throws determine the firing order of the engine. The position of the throws for each cylinder arrangement is paramount to the overall smoothness of operation. For the various engine configurations, typical throws are arranged as follows:

In-line four-cylinder engines have throws one and four offset 180 degrees from throws two and three. V-type engines have two cylinders operating off each throw. The two end throws are on one plane offset 180 degrees apart. The two center throws are on another common plane, which is also 180 degrees apart. The two planes are offset 90 degrees from each other. In-line six-cylinder engines have throws a-ranged on three planes. There are two throws on each plane that are in line with each other. The three planes are arranged 120 degrees apart. V-type twelve-cylinder engines have throw arrangements like the in-line sixcylinder engine. The difference is that each throw accepts two-engine cylinders. V-type six-cylinder engines have three throws at 120- degree intervals. Each throw accepts two-engine cylinders.

The crankshaft is supported in the crankcase and rotates in the main bearings (fig. 3-42). The connecting rods are supported on the crankshaft by the rod bearings. Crankshaft bearings are made as precision inserts that consist of a hard shell of steel or bronze with a thin lining of antifrictional metal or bearing alloy. Bearings must be able to support the crankshaft rotation and deliver power stroke thrust under the most adverse conditions. The crankshaft rotates in the main bearings located at both ends of the crankshaft and at certain intermediate points. The upper halves of the bearing fit right into the crankcase and the lower halves fit into the caps that hold the crankshaft in place (fig. 3-43). These bearings often are channeled for oil distribution and may be lubricated with crankcase oil by pressure through drilled passages or by splash. Some main bearings have an integral thrust face that eliminates crankshaft end play. To prevent the loss of oil, place the seals at both ends of the crankshaft where it extends through the crankcase. When main bearings are replaced, tighten the bearing cap to the proper tension with a torque wrench and lock them in place with a cotter pin or safety wire after they are in place. VIBRATION DUE TO IMBALANCE is an inherent problem with a crankshaft that is made with offset throws. The weight of the throws tend to make the crankshaft rotate elliptically. This is aggravated further by the weight of the piston and the connecting rod. To eliminate the problem, position the weights along the crankshaft. One weight is placed 180 degrees away from each throw. They are called counterweights and are usually part of the crankshaft but may be a separate bolt on items on small engines. The crankshaft has a tendency to bend slightly when subjected to tremendous thrust from the piston. This deflection of the rotating member causes vibration. This vibration

due to deflection is minimized by heavy crankshaft construction and sufficient support along its length by bearings. TORSIONAL VIBRATION occurs when the crankshaft twists because of the power stroke thrusts. It is caused by the cylinders furthest away from the crankshaft output. As these cylinders apply thrust to the crankshaft, it twists and the thrust decreases. The twisting and unwinding of the crankshaft produces a vibration. The use of a vibration damper at the end of the crankshaft opposite the output acts to absorb torsional vibration.
8566L Crankshaft Bush-most models Rear Crankshaft Spigot Bush 235770 Woodruff Key for Crankshaft Woodruff Key for Crankshaft ERR605 Crankshaft Bolt Spaecial Crankshaft Bolt Spaecial ERR751 Crankshaft Vibration Damper-Dis Crankshaft Vibration Damper ERR1630 Flywheel to Crankshaft Dowl-most models Dowl ERR1642 Crankshaft Timing Gear-Dis Crankshaft Timing Gear ERR2351 Crankshaft Pulley-Dis Crankshaft Pulley STC3395 Main Crankshaft Bearings -Dis Main Crankshaft Bearings ETC7128 Camshaft Assembly-Dis Camshaft Assembly

CARBURETOR
1-07-01 CARBURETOR COMPLETE-Original Zenith/Solex carburetor, identical to original Amphicar carburetor. Plus core charge of $25.00, which is refunded when you mail us your old carburetor. 1-07-01R REBUILT CARBURETOR COMPLETE-Same as above, except rebuilt. Core charge of $25.00. 1-07-01S SPRAYER. 1-07-02 THROTTLE PLATE-About the size of a quarter. It rotates back and forth on bottom of carburetor.

1-07-03 THROTTLE SHAFT-Brass shaft oscillates plate 1-07-02. 1-07-04 SCREW FOR THROTTLE PLATE-See description under 1-07-22. 1-07-05 WASHER FOR THROTTLE SHAFT-About the size of a dime, this washer with rectangular hole in the center, slides on the throttle shaft and stops the idle speed plate 1-07-06 from touching choke advance plate 1-07-14. 1-07-06 IDLE SPEED STOP PLATE-Pivots on throttle shaft 1-07-03. Screw 1-06-07 adjusts idle speed. 1-07-07 IDLE SPEED ADJUSTMENT SCREW-This is the normal steel screw which controls the r.p.m. or "idle speed" of your engine, once you've fine-tuned your carburetor and distributor. Here's an emergency tip: if your accelerator cable ever breaks on your way from can tighten down the screw to increase your engine speed to give you enough speed to get to a repair shop. 1-07-08 TENSION SPRING-The above idle speed screw 1-07-07 goes into this spring, providing enough tension to "lock" the screw at whatever speed you select. 1-07-09 LEVER1-07-10 THROTLE SHAFT END NUT-Tightens on end of the throttle shaft on the outside of the carburetor, holding the accelerator connecting rod bracket on the shaft. 1-07-11 ACCELERATOR PUMP CONTROL ROD-One end has 900 angle bend with threads which screws into back of throttle shaft. Other end has clip slots and goes into accelerator pump arm. Every time you step on the gas, this rod pivots the accelerator pump arm to squirt gas into your carburetor. 1-07-12 IDEL SMOOTHNESS SCREW-This is the brass pointed screw which adjusts your carburetor to get the smoothest possible idle speed. It goes into the carburetor on the right lower side at as angle. 1-07-13 TENSION SPRING-For above smoothness screw 1-07-12. 1-07-13a CHOKE SPEED LEVER ASSEMBLY-This assembly automatically increases the speed of your engine when you pull-out your choke cable. It contains all parts 1-07-14 through 1-07-18. 1-07-14 CHOKE SPEED BRACKET ON THROTTLE SHAFT 1-07-15 CHOKE SPEED LEVER ROD-This elbow rod connects at one end to 1-07-14 and other end to choke cam. 1-07-16 HOLDING WASHER-For rod 1-07-15. Two required for rod. 1-07-17 SPRING FOR ROD-Goes between the two holding washers 1-07-16. 1-07-18 COTTER PIN-Keeps holding washers in place on rod 1-07-15. 1-07-19 ACCELERATOR PUMP SPRING-Goes inside accelerator pump diaphragm housing to return diaphragm each time you step on gas. 1-07-20 ACCELERATOR PUMP DIAPHRAGM-About one inch square gasket held on by four screws at right rear of carburetor. If this is broken, gas drips out on exhaust manifold. 1-07-21 HOUSING WITH PIVOT ARM-For accelerator pump diaphragm. 1-07-22 BRASS SCREW-For needed to hold accelerator pump housing on carburetor. Can also be used as screw 1-07-04 to hold throttle plate on throttle shaft, if the screws are filed down.

1-07-23 RETURN SPRING-For accelerator pump control rod 1-07-11. 1-07-25 MAIN CONTROL BRACKET-Fits along entire right side of carburetor. Following parts fasten to it: choke cable, choke cam and return spring. 1-07-26 SCREW-Holds rear of main control bracket 1-07-25 on carburetor. 1-07-27 CLAMP-To hold choke cable outer, black housing in proper position on carburetor. 1-07-28 CLAMP SCREW-For above clamp 1-07-27. 1-07-29 CLAMP WASHER-For above clamp 1-07-27. 1-07-30 CLAMP NUT-For above clamp 1-07-27. 1-07-31 CHOKE CAM ASSEMBLY-Fastens to bracket 1-07-25 and pivots back and forth as choke cable is pulled in and out. 1-07-32 RETURN SPRING-Fastens to bracket 1-07-25 and cam 1-07-31 and returns choke cam to "off" position when choke cable is pushed back in. 1-07-33 PIVOT SCREW FOR CHOKE CAM-Screws into right side of carburetor through main bracket 107-25 and has shoulder which allows choke cam 1-07-31 to rotate back and forth. 1-07-34 SCREW-Fastens and adjusts choke speed lever rod to correct idle speed increase when pulling out choke. 1-07-35 SCREW FOR CHOKE CABLE-Holds metal wire end of choke cable on choke cam 1-07-31. 1-07-36 INJECTION PUMP PIPE-You'll spot this pipe immediately if you ever take the top of your carburetor off to clean it. It looks like a fish hook sticking out of the carburetor. 1-07-37 RUBBER O-RING SEAL-This important seal fits on the bottom of the injection pipe 1-07-36 and prevents gas leaks in carburetor. 1-07-38 CARBURETOR CHROME BALL-This miniature, polished chrome ball, about the size of BB, goes in the hole in the carburetor where you stick the bottom of the injection pipe 1-07-36. Remember to catch this ball if you ever turn your carburetor over after you've removed the injection pipe for cleaning. We get calls phone calls all the time about 'leaky" carburetors, and all too often this ball rolled out, causing the problem. 1-07-39 ANTI-SIPHON VALVE-Looks like small aluminum nail, fits inside jet 1-07-40. JET FOR ANTI-SIPHON VALVE-If you have the top of your carburetor off, it goes on the top of the right rear of the bottom half of your carburetor. 1-07-41 EMULSION TUBE-This is the only long tube with four holes in it which screws out of sight into the bottom half of the carburetor. 1-07-42 PILOT AIR JET-This jet controls the amount of air mixing with the gas in your carburetor. All Amphicar carburetors come equipped with pilot jets for air mixing at sea level. Therefore, if you drive your Amphicar at high altitudes, above 3,000 feet, you can probably inrcrease your performance by installing a larger pilot jet. This jet is easy to replace and can be removed or replaced in seconds on the outside of the carburetor. 1-07-43 MAIN JET-This jet in the bottom front side of the float bowl of the carburetor regulates the amount of gas mixing in your carburetor. Amphicar main jets are set for sea level operation. If you drive at high altitudes, over 3,000 feet, you should install a smaller main jet to get the very best performance. Also, see our information under pilot jet 1-07-42. 1-07-44

PLUG IN BACK OF CARBURETOR-You remove this plug to install main jet 1-07-43. 1-07-45 GASKET For plug 1-07-44. 1-07-46 ECONOSTAT JET-This is the only gray-colored metal jet in the Amphicar carburetor. 1-07-47 CARBURETOR FLOAT-Original Amphicar copper metal float. 1-07-48 FLOAT PIVOT ARM-Moves up and down on carburetor float. Rear of arm fits on rod in slot at back of float bowl. 1-07-49 FLOAT SPINDLE ARM ROD-Looks like a nail without a head. Allows float pivot arm to move up and down. 1-07-50 NEEDLE AND SEAT ASSEMBLY-This brass screw has a blunt needle which goes up and down in the middle. It crews into the underside of the carburetor top housing. 1-07-51 GASKET-Seals needle and seat on top housing. 1-07-52a TOP CARBURETOR HOUSING-For late type "IZ" Zenith carburetors only. With the exception of the first 100 Amphicars produced, Amphicar supplied two different carburetor models. The most popular was the Solex brand on 1961 - 1967 early cars. In mid 1967, a Zenith "IZ" was supplied. Look next to the threaded fuel fitting inlet on your carburetor. If it says "30 PSEI",this top will not fit. If your top housing has a coppercolored cap, about the size of a penny, then most likely this top will replace yours. Call if not sure. Housing is complete with choke place 1-07-53 and spindle rod 1-07-54. 1-07-53 CHOKE FLAPPER PLATE-When you pull out the choke cable, this silver-dollar-sized plate closes off the top of the carburetor. It is held on the choke spindle rod by two screws. 1-07-54 CHOKE PLATE SPINDLE ROD-The choke plate moves back and forth on this spindle every time you operate the choke. The spindle sticks out of the right side of the carburetor top housing where it moves against the choke cam 1-07-31. 1-07-55 SCREW-To hold choke plate 1-07-53 on spindle rod 1-07-54, two required. 1-07-56 RETURN SPRING-For choke plate spindle rod. 1-07-57 MAIN GASKET-Seals top of carburetor to bottom half. Fits carburetor with 1-07-42 pilot air jet. 1-07-58 SCREW-Five needed to fasten top of carburetor to bottom half. 1-07-59 FLANGE-Heat insulating flange fits between bottom of carburetor and carburetor base plate 101-18. Two of paper gasket 1-07-61 are required to completely prevent air leaks at bottom of carburetor. 1-07-61 PAPER INSULATING GASKET-Two required with one going on top of and one on bottom of flange 1-07-59. Also, see gasket 1-01-27 for insulating the bottom of carburetor base plate 1-0118. 1-07-62 RUBBER VACCUM CONNECTOR HOSE-Original Amphicar. Fastens both ends of vacuum line 1-06-30V, with one connector joining carburetor to vacuum line and second connector joining vacuum advance to vacuum line. Two required. 1-07-63S MINOR CARBURETOR REPAIR KIT-Consists of the following part numbers: 1-07-57,50, 1-07-63L MAJOR CARBURETOR REBUILDING KIT-Consists of the following part numbers: 1-07-02, 05,07,08,12,20,32,36,37,38,39,40,41,42,43,46,50,51,53,56,57, and two of 61. See descriptions above. For early carburetors using pilot jet 1-07-42.