Tools n Tips for Building Your Own Furniture

:::: ::::::::

So you want to build your own furniture? And get exactly what you want? Potentially saving tons of retail? You can. If I can do this, anyone can. But you will need a little know-how and a few tools to get started.

I try to keep the tools needed in project plans to a minimum, giving everyone an opportunity to build, but if you have advanced woodworking skills and tools, you can still alter many of the plans to fit your needs.

1: Do your homework- First and foremost, I recommend just taking some

time to build up some confidence and get yourself prepared for success. And the more you know, the more likely you are to be successful on your first project.

There is an amazing amount of information and resources available to you through this site. With over 60,000 Facebook Friends that are generous, helpful, smart, and many, just like you use our community to ask questions and find inspiration and answers. Visit our own Community and read through the threads. Read comments on the posts. Go through our Bragging Board posts.

In other words, I'm encouraging you to know what you are getting into. And for those of you who have already been through this process, please add comments to this page to encourage others. Any tips and tricks also greatly appreciated.

2: Your First Plan- Once you've built up a little knowledge and some
confidence to tackle a project, it's time to pick a plan. I've created a special section of plans that are perfect for getting started. Of course, there are hundreds of plans available online, and you can choose anything that you want, I'm just suggesting these plans because they are inexpensive, many people have had success with them, and they require the most basic tools and knowledge.

Read through the entire plan at least twice, and all comments. Check out brag post associated with the plan. Be comfortable with the plan you have choosen to build as your first project.

3: Go Shopping- The lumber aisle is huge, and everything might look the
same. I highly suggest working with pine or whitewood boards for a first project because these boards are cheap, easy to work with, and readily available. Plan to paint your first project too, as you have to be more perfect with a stained finish. Ask an associate to send you to the "whitewood or pine board section". Also ask where the 1x2, 1x3 and 2x2 furring strips are located (as these boards are the exact same species as the whitewood boards but much much cheaper, but you will need to dig through to find good boards). If you are looking of 2x4s and 2x6s, ask where the studs are. Choose your boards by pretending that the board is an arrow on a bow, and you are shooting the arrow. Look down the length of the board to make sure it is straight. Rotate the board to check all sides. Inspect the board for cracks or other imperfections. You may want a rustic finish, so some knots or rough patches are fine - it's the straightness and cracks that you need to discard.

-:-About Boards-:-

Not that kind!!!

Am I going to have problems with you screwing around? Now get back to work and quit screwing around!

I like to use standard width boards, even when we use plywood, because it saves materials and it saves cuts. Also, your scraps will be useful for other projects. You'll notice this throughout all of my plans. But here's the major problem with using dimensional boards . . . the widths can vary depending on where you live. I live up in Alaska, and most of our lumber is milled in Canada. Most of the 1x12s I get are 11 1/2" wide, but others say theirs are 11 1/4". This does matter. What you need to do is measure the widths of all of your boards and adjust the plans according to your boards (if necessary). Here is a table of the sizes that I go off of.

1x2 measures 3/4" x 1 1/2" 1x3 measures 3/4" x 2 1/2" 1x4 measures 3/4" x 3 1/2" 1x6 measures 3/4" x 5 1/2" 1x8 measures 3/4" x 7 1/2" or 7 1/4" (noted in plan) 1x10 measures 3/4" x 9 1/2" or 9 1/4" (noted in plan) 1x12 measures 3/4" x 11 1/2" or 11 1/4" (noted in plan) 1x16 measures 3/4" x 15 1/2" - can vary - noted in plan 1x24 measures 3/4" x 23 1/2" - can vary - noted in plan For the 1x12, 1x16, and 1x24, I give these measurements because you can rip a

standard 48" wide sheet of plywood into 4 1x12s conserving the most material. You can also get 3 - 1x16s or 2 - 1x24s. As a builder on a budget myself, I get the need to minimize waste and maximize material.

Ask an associate if the store does complimentary cuts. Take advantage of this for a first project if you don't have access to a saw at home. If not, you gotta get a saw.

4: Cutting Boards- Depending on the project, you are going to need a saw.
Instead of splurging on an expensive compound miter saw (start saving, you will want this saw) for the first project, purchase either a jigsaw or a round or circular saw.

Jigsaw- This is a jigsaw

(not this one)

It's primarily used for cutting shapes out of wood. But it could be used to cut straight lines too. However, a jigsaw is difficult to get precise cuts with. Jigsaws

start at $25. I think a jigsaw is less intimidating than the circular saw.

Circular Saw-

This is a circular saw. It is used for making long straight cuts. It can also be used for making short straight cuts with more precision than a jigsaw. Circular saws start at $50. Purchase this saw if you intend to make a lot of plywood cuts.

Carpenter's Square-

These start at around $5. Use a square to mark a straight line on your boards so you know where to cut your board.

Clamps-

These are awesome if you are working alone. You can clamp your board to a table, mark the board with the square and then cut it. They start at around $10. Try to avoid clamps like this-

They tend to be more trouble than they are worth.

Measuring Tape-

Your gonna need a measuring tape.

Safety- Don't forget to purchase safety glasses and hearing protection too.
Speaking of safety, if you can't tell the difference between a jigsaw, circular saw or a chainsaw, may I make a recommendation? Try and stick with tools from this manufacturer-

Okay, so here's how to cut. Clamp your board down. Use your square to make sure that the end of the board is square (you'd be surprised at how many boards don't come straight). If the end is not square, mark it with the square (I like to use mechanical pencils, but any real carpenter will tell you to get a carpenter's pencil :) ). Then cut it square, taking great care to cut on one side of the line. Cut slow. Respect the saw. There is no hurry. Measure the length of your board and make another cut. One board down!

5: Building- So once you've got all of your boards cut, it's time to actually
build the piece. Before you begin building, make sure you are working on a clean level surface. Vacuum any sawdust. You will be surprised at what the tiniest bit of sawdust can do to your projects. Make all efforts to keep edges flush. Be careful. Go slow. There are a couple of different options to joining boards the easy way, but let's start with the absolute most basic and inexpensive - countersinking screws. You can go here to see me demonstrate how easy this is to do.

Drill-

No one better notice that you jackass or there'll be hell to pay!

You are going to need a drill. I highly recommend splurging on a good drill you'll use it for everything from hanging pictures to hanging closet doors, fixing toys to build sheds. You can save money on a good drill by purchasing a refurbished one (often refurbished drills are brand new and were just part of a kit where another tool had issues) or purchasing a corded drill.

Countersink Drill Bits-

The top part of the bit drills a hole for the screw shaft, the black part drills a hole for the screw head so your screw is hidden under the surface of the wood. Choose a countersink bit that matches your wood screws.

Screw-

OH CRAP! No! Don't look, nothing to see here!

Move along now. Next slide, and get it right, jackass!

Most of the plans will call for 1 1/4" and 2" wood screws. I like the gold screws for limited budgets, but if you can afford them, self tapping wood screws can eliminate the need for countersinking screws. You will also need to purchase a drill bit that fits the screw head (expect these to be under $1)

How to ScrewY'all got some dirty minds! Anyway, to get back on topic- You got your drill, bits, and screws. Practice drilling a hole with the countersink bit. Apply pressure and you will notice that the bit drills a small hole for the screw shaft, followed by a larger hole for the screw head. With a countersink bit, take great care to keep the drill positioned at the same angle - busting a countersink bit is easy to do.

Pocket Screws-

Naughty! I didn't say Pocket Pool. Now get yer hand outta there!

Okay, so you are also going to read about pocket holes on this site, most often referred to the Kreg Jig. The image above is a Kreg Jig, starting price of $20. You can use the Kreg Jig to build just about everything, and I highly recommend using it as your preferred joining technique. However, if you can afford it, I highly recommend spending $100 for the full size Kreg Jig. That's why I'm recommending for the very first project, you just stick with a countersink bit, and then when you find out you love building stuff, you can buy the Kreg Jig. You will still use your inexpensive countersink bits here and there, so your investment in them is not lost.

There are generic pocket screw kits, but just remember that you get what you pay for.

Building 101Mark out the joints on both sides of the joint on the board. Predrill your holes with the countersink bit. You most likely will only need to predrill in the first board, and your screws will not split the second board, but do some practicing to make sure. Some boards are drier than others, thus splitting easier. Insert the screw into the predrilled hole, apple glue, and line up the two boards to join. Don't worry about getting the entire joint precise, you can rotate the board after you get the first screw in. Screw it together!

Nails-

Thank the Gods you got that one right!

Some of the plans might call for finish nails. If you don't have a nailer, a hammer and individual nails as shown above will do the trick. Just make sure your hammer has a smooth head. Most plans call for 1 1/4" and 2" finish nails. Always use glue with nails.

Nail Set-

These aren't particulary expensive, but can make a big difference in the final finish. Exactly as the name discribes, a quick tap on the head of a nail with one of these will push the head of the nail below the surface of the wood. That way you can fill the hole with wood filler and you will never know there is a nail in there.

Hammer-

Don't forget your hammer. Bigger isn't always better. The right size hammer goes a long way towards making the job easier. Trying to drive 18 gauge brads with a 3 pound sledge is going to be a nightmare.

Really? Really?

Needle Nose Pliers-

It's good to have these around just in case a nail goes the wrong way and you can't get it out with the hammer. Don't try and cut the end off, you will never get it close enough to the wood. You can try backing the nail out with the hammer. If that doesn't work, grap the very tip of the nail (the sharp point) and wiggle the nail in all directions. The nail should break off flush with the wood. Hopefully, you won't encounter this on a first project, but for $3, it's good to have a pair of needle nosed pliers around.

Wood Glue-

You will need to use glue for all nail joints. For unfinished wood, I love Elmer's glue. If your wood has been treated or painted, you will need to use a different type of glue for treated surfaces. Something like Gorilla glue. Oh, and be careful when applying glue on stained projects - areas that have glue dried to it won't take stain! Here's a few real tips for using glue. 1- Make sure to get all surfaces to be glued covered. Lay a bead of glue and use a scrap of cardboard to smooth and spread the glue. 2- When putting the two surfaces together, move them around a little bit before nailing/screwing them togther. Air between glued surfaces will eventually

lead to failure of the joint. 3- Once assembled, allow the glue to set for a while until a good skin forms. At that point, a knife/scraper or similar tool will lift to semi dried glue, and it will peel off easily, leaving no residue. Most glues will say to wipe up excess right away with a damp cloth. Step 3 above can give you much better results. If a surface is damp, can you see if you missed any glue? Any glue you miss will be a nightmare to get up.

NailingWe most commonly nail pieces that are low use or parts of pieces that are low use. I like to build the box with screws, then nail the trim boards on. Screws are more difficult to disguise but stronger than nails. Wow, that made a lot of sense. Lets put it this way. When building furnitureStructures will be held togther with screws. Trim will be nailed. Easy,

FinishingFinishing is likely the part that you are already good at and don't need a ton of help. The most important part of finishing is preparation. Really? I thought that was the point of a tip sheet like this. Large volumes have been written about finishing. But the second sentence above is a truism. The better the prep work you do, the better your finish will look. You will likely spen a lot more time doing the finish prep than actually applying the finish. When it comes time to apply the finish, a few key things to remember. Paitence. Don't try to do too much at once. Too much can lead to runs/drips. Apply in smooth, even motions. Try to be consistant. If spraying on a finish, start spraying off of the piece, then slowly and consistantly swing across your piece, finishing up swinging off the piece before you stop spraying. If you are wiping on a finish, use lint free rags, and store rags in an air tight container to prevent fire. Brushing? Slow easy strokes, and again, don't try to apply too much at once. Don't cheap out on brushes- Remember ths brush is the last thing your finish touches. Clean brushes per directions on the finish you are using, and storeonce dry, in the original package.

Wood Filler-

The thing about wood filler is you can't let it dry out, so DO NOT leave the lid open. And also, it may say stainable, but in my experience, it doesn't stain the exact color. You are better off going with wood filler color matched to your stain (available in the stain aisle). Overfill all holes with wood filler because it tends to shrink when dry. I like to apply two coats of wood filler. I use a putty knife (less than $1 for a plastic one) but for years, just used my fingers.

NO! Not like that! Bad boy!

Damn, I knew you were wrong for this job. You don't think you'll have a job after this, do you?

Sanding-

There are a TON of options when it comes to sanding. Power sanders work great, but it can be easy to over do it, and ruin parts. On the other hand, a hand sander is a good workout and can be just as effective. This one is less than $5. I start with 120 grit sandpaper and sand thru the grits- 120. 150. 180, and finishing up with 220.

Sanding Pointers-Always use proper protective equipment. -Don't cheap out with your sandpaper! The quality of the final finish is directly affected by your sandpaper. Higher quality sandpaper lasts much longer, is harder to clog, and the grit size is much more consistant. -Sand with the direction of the grain of the wood. It is usually much easier to work down the sanding scratches left from the last grit. While not always possible- quilt figure or burl comes to mind- when possible, it's easier to get better results. -Don't over use your sandpaper. When it's shot, it's shot. Throw it out. Dead sandpaper can cause heavy scratching, irregular surface finish and a wavy surface that's almost impolssible to get smooth and flat! -Gloves, long sleeves, eye protection, respirator, and hearing protection if you are using power tools. -Long, smooth, even motions help keep your surfaces flat. -Sand all joints so that the wood filler disappears. -Sand any rough patches or differences in joints. -When you have think you have finished sanding, wipe the surface with a damp cloth and allow it to dry. If there are any loose wood fibers, this will raise them so that you may sand again. Repeat until a damp cloth wipedown doesn't raise any more fibers. You will be shocked by the difference this makes to the quality of your end product.

-After you finish sanding, vacuum the project and the entire work area. -Wipe the project clean with tackcloth. Leaving sanding residue can play havoc with your finish. -The harder a spicies of wood is, the finer a finish it can take. Some exotic woods can be sanding with grits as fine as 2500 or even higher. Amazingly smooth surfaces can be achieved, even without the use of any finishing products.Various varieties of rosewood, ebony, bubinga and cocobolo along with many others will polish up beautifully. Even though they may be that highly polished, doesn't mean they are protected. Some sort of finish should still be applied. -As beautiful as they are these woods are, they are often oily, making gluing and finishing difficult. -Last but not least, sawdust is dangerous. Breathing protection should be the very first thing you should thing about when you are getting started. A replaceable cartridge filter resperator should be prefered, but at the very least a Par n95 mask and very good ventilation at the very minium. Breathing protection IS NOT OPTIONAL! Also, long sleeves, gloves, and goggles or other FULL eye protection are MANDATORY! Oh yeah, and contrary to what some un-named wood working TV personalities may say, perscription glasses don't count!!!

And one more thing, Breathing protection IS NOT OPTIONAL!

While certianly not optimal, something like this is better than nothing!

Overkill? Maybe, maybe not. When working a lot of exotic hardwoods the dangers aren't just the normal issues of sawdust. Many are severe irritants, and some are down right TOXIC. A little research goes a long way toward protecting you long term health. Just fyi- http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/wood-dust-safety/

Primer-

No, not him. Primer, not Premier.

No, I'm not Putin you on about primer. Primer is the bridge between paint and wood. It seals the wood, preventing your piece from "yellowing" (if it's white) and also makes the paint "stick" to the wood. I like to spray on primer. You can use a spray can, but better quality products like above can be brushed, airbrushed, or

sprayed on with HVLP equipment. Better than nuthin:

PaintI <3 Flat Paint. OK, wait. What is this <3 shit? Are two more key strokes gunna kill you? If that's too much, then get a real keyboard instead of some stupid IPad or Itampon or whatever.

Not just for geeks anymore...

I know you are going to read everywhere to use high gloss enamel cabinet paint, but here's what I've discovered in my years of painting furniture. It's better to layer paint. That way a scratch doesn't peel off a huge section. And flat paint dries well. And it's thin, so it will allow some of your wood grain to show through. Just put enough layers on until you are satisfied with the color. You can mix different colors for added depth. Also, with flat paint, I find you don't need to sand as much between coats, but it's never a bad idea to sand between coats. TIP: Buy some ooops paint for a few bucks to save on your first project. The paint counter might even be kind enough to retint it for you :) Brush in the direction of the wood. Oh, spray paint is marvelous too! Easy Distressed Finish. For an easy distressed finish, sand edges of the piece with your hand sander. You can then apply a stain or glaze over the paint to stain any exposed wood. Top Coat. If you used flat paint, you will need to add a top coat to seal the deal. I like to use spray on top coat. Top coats are just clear paint.

Ok, now that she's had her say about finishes, it's my turn. Here are three to consider. Easy to apply, repairable and generally not tempermental.

Tung oil-

Nope. Not the stones

Tung oil. Easy. Wipe on, wipe off exess. Rub with xxfine(0000) steel wool. Wipe off steel wool fragments with tack cloth. Repeat every 12 to 24 hours depending on temp/humidity until you have the depth of finish you desire.

BLO-

My Gods y'all have a dirty minds!

There, that's better

You are sooooo done. I mean it. We're going to have some serious words when we get finished here.

Boiled Linseed Oil-BLO, ok? Freaks! Surrounded by freaks!!! Pretty much same as above. Differences? Tung oil dries slower, but is tougher. You can add BLO to Tung oil, to help speed up the dry time. But, yeah, application is basically the same as above. You want to toughen up further? Apply a wipe on poly over the top of it. Now then, not dark enough? You can add oil based stain or dye to your Tung/BLO. If yer stuck with water or alcohol based dye/stain then that should be applied before your oil base. Water based MUST be dry before oil based finishes are applied, got that?

Shellac-

A little more tempermental than oil based, but still pretty easy. Mix shellac flakes with denatured alcohol in a sealable glass container per manufacturers directions. Allow shellac to dissolve completely, usually 24ish hours. Strain off solids and store in a sealed container. Ok shelf life as long as you keep it sealed.

Applying shellacThere are two commonly accepted methods for applying shellac: brushing and padding.

Brushing-

To brush on shellac, use a fine, natural or china-bristle brush. Use a two or threepound cut of shellac and apply generously with long, smooth strokes. Because shellac dries quickly, be careful to avoid drips or blotchy areas when applying, because unlike other finishes, you will likely not have time to over-brush to eliminate the blemish.

Padding-

To apply shellac with a pad, use a clean piece of medium-weight cotton muslin. The idea is to lay down a smooth, even application of shellac in a single long, even stroke. While many techniques for padding are used, a favorite that I recently learned is to wrap a ten-inch square piece of muslin around an old (clean) athletic sock. Before beginning to apply the shellac, place your cut of shellac into a squeeze bottle. Squeeze a liberal amount of shellac into the sock to act as a reservoir. Then wrap the muslin around the sock and hold the edges of the muslin behind the sock. Squeezing the pad lightly should allow a small amount of shellac to seep through the muslin. The exposed shellac on the muslin surface of the pad should be even with no dripping. When applying the pad to your woodworking project, you may need a bit of a lubricant. Mineral oil works great, as it will not affect the final color or finish. If your padding movement seems a bit "sticky", keep a small bowl with a little bit of mineral oil handy for light dipping. With a very small amount of mineral oil on the loaded pad, you're ready to begin applying the shellac to the wood. To start, do not place the pad directly onto the wood and begin rubbing; instead, ease the pad on and off the stock to avoid any blotchy spots. The best way to describe the motion is to work much like an airplane taking off and landing. Once the pad is on the wood, work in somewhat irregular patterns rather than just with the grain. This will insure a thorough coverage. As you need more shellac, simply squeeze the pad a bit. A more traditional method of padding is to fold a piece of muslin a few times so

you have a flat pad with a few layers of thickness. Then apply light coats of shellac with a moist, but not dripping wet pad. No matter which method of padding you choose, you'll find padding works best on flat surfaces. Irregular areas, corners and trim will likely be easier to apply with a brush. Many woodworkers like to use a combination of brushing and padding. They will apply the shellac with a brush, then immediately smooth it out with a piece of muslin. Use long strokes moving with the grain of the stock.

Completing the Shellac FinishAfter the first coat of shellac dries, lightly sand with 400-grit sandpaper. Wipe off the white residue and apply a second coat. Repeat until the desired number of coats have been applied. This direct application will result in a high-gloss finish. If a less glossy, satin finish is preferred, try buffing out the final coat with some 0000 steel wool and (nonsilicon based) paste wax. Lightly work the wax over the finish until it is thoroughly covered. Allow the wax to dry, then wipe off and buff to a lustrous finish.

Clean UpBrushes can be easily cleaned after applying shellac with alcohol, as this will effectively cut the shellac until the brush is clean. However, I find a simpler method is to clean the brush with ammonia. The alkaline ammonia dissolves the shellac quickly and easily. After the shellac is completely gone, wash the brush in soap and warm water to keep the bristles soft. Dry the bristles and store the brush in the container in which it came (to keep the bristles in proper shape).

Repairing ShellacShellac finishes should be kept away from water, as they will become dull or even have a white residue appear when exposed to moisture. Should your shellac finish develop water spots, repair is relatively simple. Use straight alcohol on a pad and remove the shellac from the offending area. Then pad or brush on a series of coats of shellac and rub it out until the finish is even. Should a surface scratch appear through the finish, use a fine artist's brush to fill the scratch with shellac. Rub out the finish to even out the color between the repaired scratch and the surrounding finish.

Note About Board Widths - Measure you board widths first, board widths can vary up to half an inch. I use the widest possible widths - 1/2 less than the name. For example, a 1x6 should be 5 1/2" wide.

Good luck with your first project!