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Step 6: CIM Motor Drive Part2 - Application to the longboard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Step 7: Flexibility and Shock Absorption . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Step 8: Miscellaneous Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Step 9: Cost and Feasibility . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Step 10: Performance and Pictures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Related Instructables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 Comments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Author:all1by
MIT Undergraduate
Image Notes 1. Stock Altered Pro-line 600 2. Transmitter 3. Lead Acid charger
Image Notes 1. CIM motor 2. The compact gear reduction drive 3. Aluminum lip-lick extension that keeps the belt from contacting the deck during turns.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Step 3: Turning
The first step was to understand why the turning radius was so bad. Part of the problem was that giant motor attached to the rear truck; its can would contact the deck, limiting how far the rear truck could turn. Trying to relocate the big motor was pointless, since the one large motor was going to be replaced with two smaller ones anyways. However, this wasnt the major problem. Exkate/Altered (same company fyi) trucks are custom- they have a unique footprint and use torsion bushings instead of compression bushings. They try to make their new type of truck sound awesome on their website, but the fact is they dont work as well as regular compression trucks. The front truck on our board would only turn so far before stopping. So we took it apart and found that it was stopping due to an irreparable metal design feature (its complicated, and the only way to fully explain it is in person with one taken apart). The rubber torsion bushing is held in place by three metal pins and showed some serious strain at those points. In summary, we didnt think it was a very good design, and our opinion is backed up by the poor performance of the board with respect to turning. So we replaced the trucks. Regular longboard trucks werent long enough for the giant wheels (even 180mm trucks). More specifically, the length of the axle wasnt long enough for the super wide wheels. Mountainboard trucks are designed to accept very wide pneumatic wheels, so we went with those. We chose to use the bushing-style trucks to save money, but shock absorber mountain board trucks would probably be fine. The MBS trucks came with small metal brackets (used to mount brakes) on both sides. The drive gears on the wheels would interfere with these brackets, so both brackets were cut/ground/sanded off of one of the trucks (making it the rear truck). The front truck was unmodified. Oh, and it turned out that the axle diameters were so similar that new bearings didn't need to be purchased (it was 9.5mm for the new ones vs. 3/8"). We found that using an extra hard bushing in the back and a hard one in the front gave the best ride, but its of course up to the riders taste. These trucks cut the turning radius from 10ft down to our goal of 5ft!
Image Notes 1. Extra wide wheels 2. Rubber torsion bushing 3. Non-standard bolt pattern.
Image Notes 1. The metal stop thing that prevented the trucks from turning far enough. 2. Metal pins that held the bushing in place.
Image Notes 1. The rear truck with motor attached. 2. Giant 10lb motor 3. Extra long axles 4. Timing belt drive
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. MBS mountainboard truck 2. Standard bolt pattern 3. Compression bushing 4. Brake brackets 5. Extra long axles 6. Riser
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. Fuses 2. 1 of 3 balancing taps. Wiring the packs like this got rid of 6 balancing taps and allowed us to charge 3 packs at a time.
Image Notes 1. These smaller wires represent the parallel balancing tap connections between packs. There wasn't enough space to draw all four and the fuses. 2. Trace the black wires. One goes to 22.2, another to 11.1, and another to 0V. This is bad. Three separate power supplies are needed. 3. Cheap chargers connect the ground input to ground output. More expensive chargers may have more sophisticated circuitry that alleviates this problem. 4. Thin wires represent balancing tap leads. Not enough room to draw all four wires.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. The battery boxes were bolted to the deck with small machine screws.
Image Notes 1. One of three balancing/charging taps. 2. Fuses are here (covered by electrical tape). 3. The four tap leads. Each pack has 4 tap wires. They hook directly to each individual cell inside the packs. 4. power leads
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. having lots of batteries, and thus, lots of gaps, allowed for lots of board flex
Image Notes 1. Controlled blow-out point. The side packs have blow-out points on the sides facing out. 2. Blue RTV Silicon for waterproofing 3. These three are wired in parallel via the balancing taps and fuses. 4. These three are wired in series via the power leads 5. The three sets of series packs are finally wired in parallel here (hidden under the white tap). 6. One of the electronic project boxes with a LiPo in it.
Image Notes 1. rubber spacers were used to cut down on pack vibration
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. The planetary 2. 5/16" D-slot 3. 8 outer ring holes that get bolted to the bracket
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. Our bracket 2. large hole for clearing the raised ring on motor so that this bracket can sit flush against the motor surface 3. 8 tapped #8-32 holes for securing planetary 4. two clearance holes for the screws holding this plate to the motor. These holes still needed to be countersunk at this point. 5. Threading #8-32
Image Notes 1. the hub extension that extended past the plane of the gear. I cut this off with a lathe
Image Notes 1. cutting the bearing surface. I should have put the bearing surface on the other side with the relief cut for the raised ring on the planetary 2. 3/8" clearance hole 3. Gear clamped in lathe chuck 4. boring bar
Image Notes 1. The four holes that needed to be tapped 10-32 in the planetaries. 2. pointy for transferring screw locations to gear 3. The raised ring on the planetary that required a relief cut in the gear.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. bearings. again, I should have put them in the other side 2. holes not drilled yet for screwing to planetary. parts of these supports had to be removed for the screw heads. 3. 5M pitch timing belt gears.
Image Notes 1. First step. Screw bracket to motor. Note that no screw head is protruding. This is due to the countersink. 2. you can sorta see the ground down section for the D-slot on the other side of the shaft 3. Bracket sits flush against motor face thanks to this hole.
Image Notes 1. The four tapped holes for screwing on the gear. 2. #8-32 screws go in here. 3. spacers go between here
Image Notes 1. No shaft...oops. The shaft is too short, so we had to flip the gear around so that the bearing would contact the shaft. 2. Nice and flush.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. The bearing contacts the shaft now, but this relief cut is now useless. 2. No longer nice and flush.
Image Notes 1. we painted them black 2. hole for truck 3. mounting bracket to hold motor bracket to truck 4. Countersunk
Image Notes 1. CIM motor 2. The compact gear reduction drive 3. Aluminum lip-lick extension that keeps the belt from contacting the deck during turns.
Image Notes 1. Trying to find the right combination of holes 2. drilled out nuts for spacers 3. We didn't tightening the screws down all the way; this lets the planetary find the spot it likes.
Image Notes 1. no bearing 2. forces are transferred to the planetary, which is bad
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
own truck. But besides that, there are other problems with both. A solid rear axle would mean that both rear wheels would be spinning at the same rate. This is bad for turning. When a car turns, the outer wheels have to spin faster than the inner ones. If you have a solid axle on a longboard, the outer wheels have to slip in order to make the turn. This would seriously hurt the turning radius. A differential would alleviate this problem; however, in the case of longboards, it causes a different problem. A longboard is turned by leaning in the direction you with to go, causing more force to be on the inner wheels than the outer wheels. This means that the outer wheels have less traction. With a differential, the side with less resisting force (traction) gets more torque and vice versa. This means that, in very sharp turns where the outer wheel comes off the ground, the outer wheel will get all of the power and the inner wheel will stop spinning. This is the same problem we had with 1 wheel drive, but now on either side of the board! In summary, a solid rear axle or differential were not good ideas. So we used two motors. However, one thing we didnt foresee until it was too late was that we had created an electronic differential by wiring the motors in series. If one motor has less load than another, it will steal power from the other motor. Ideally, the two motors should be wired in parallel. However, that cant be done with CIM motors because, while 18V is fine, 36V would probably cause them to explode. The second best possible solution is to find two relatively low rpm/V (so that you dont need the planetaries), light weight, compact, 36V motors and wire them in parallelI couldnt find any such commercial motors. The best possible solution would be to completely overhaul the power system by using two motor controllers (one for each motor), finding motors that match our needs exactly (and don't need the planetaries), and creating a new radio scheme (because the radio receiver is integrated into the current electronics module). Note: when I say motor, I mean brushed motor. We decided to go with brushed motors over brushless because of their simplicity, being cheap, and ability to wire them in series or parallel. Brushless motors are more efficient and more powerful, so if anyone wants to undertake a brushless version of this project, that would be cool! (Im building one with in-wheel brushless hub motors, check it out here: http://www.mitrocketscience.blogspot.com / ) . The last thing to mention is how we mounted the brackets to the trucks. A hole was drilled in the bracket plate large enough to fit the truck through. Two small two piece clamps were machined out of 2 aluminum round stock. First, we cut 1/2 inch pieces of the 2 round. Then those had a big hole drilled in the center smaller than the diameter of the trucks at the point we were going to clamp it (if these holes end up being too small, filing can fix them). Then they were notched (see pic) and holes drilled (for a #10-32 tap) perpendicular to those notches. Two clearance holes for 10-32 were drilled through the face of each (to be used to screw the bracket to). Then they were cut in half (see pics). Then the bottom sections were threaded for 10-32 and the top sections were drilled out for clearance. The end result was two, 2-piece clamps that would fit snugly onto the trucks when screwed together. After fixing them to the trucks, the two face hole locations were transferred to the brackets and drilled and tapped for 10-32. Then everything was shimmed (to get the motors straight because I can almost guarantee that the clamps wont sit perfectly straight on the trucks) and bolted (with loctite!) together. Note: a better way to do this than clamps would be to weld the 2 round disks onto the truck.
Image Notes 1. figuring out where exactly the brackets should go along the truck
Image Notes 1. The custom 2-piece clamps. 2. clamping screws 3. two clearance holes for 10-32 drilled through the face 4. notches 5. cut in half 6. drilled hole 7. filed hole 8. After these were clamped onto the trucks, these hole locations were transferred to the brackets that were then drilled and tapped.
Image Notes 1. shims went between here 2. shim 3. bolted on 4. We calculated the exact distance the two gears needed to be apart before making the brackets so that the belts would be under proper tension. Image Notes 1. CIM motor 2. The compact gear reduction drive
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
3. Aluminum lip-lick extension that keeps the belt from contacting the deck during turns.
Image Notes 1. Motor positioned far enough below deck to not interfere with turning. 2. 1/2" ground clearance
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
Image Notes 1. MBS mountainboard truck 2. Standard bolt pattern 3. Compression bushing 4. Brake brackets 5. Extra long axles 6. Riser
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
The Altered board we altered was donated by a private party (thanks Stephen!) to the Edgerton Center.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
3. Aluminum lip-lick extension that keeps the belt from contacting the deck during turns.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
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Comments
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nuttyjr says:
Friggin great example of what first robotics kids do after 6 weeks off builld lol
cschultz-1 says:
Mar 6, 2011. 9:22 PM REPLY What i don't understand, is that your battery system is set up for 36V, but your motors are clearly 12V, and trust me they will burn if you run them at 36??
all1by says:
They are wired in series (36/2=18V), and they can handle 18V without issue.
motleypixel says:
Dec 30, 2010. 10:01 AM REPLY Okay this is cool...I have all the tools including a mini metal lathe etc. I want to build from scratch (ground up) and your instructable isn't 100% detailed. For instance, could you please update some line items like #2 "Two CIM motors", where, how much, part numbers, etc.? What are the part numbers for every "major" component like in #6 the belt gears, you just give the main site and they have a ton of gears? Thanks!
all1by says:
Jan 1, 2011. 5:04 PM REPLY The CIM motors are the classic FIRST robotics motors. I put links in various places in the instructable to their specs. As for a place to buy them, I just googled "first cim motor". Many places sell them. Ex: http://www.trossenrobotics.com/store/p/5142-FIRST-CIM-Motor.aspx The timing belt gear ratio you use is somewhat dependent on the motor controller(s) you use. If you use the Exkate one like us, then you could try the gear ratio we used. Step 6 mentions the gears we used (44T). https://sdp-si.com/eStore/ , and look under "timing belt pulleys". Anything else? Hope that helped.
all1by says:
Some updates:
1. Make sure you make the bracket-claps better than we did. They should match the profile of the trucks. If they don't, they are prone to slipping. Also, I'd suggest using bigger and coarser thread screws for the clamp. Or just braze or weld it. 2. Make sure you use a good bottoming tap with the drive gear - planetary interface because you'll need as much thread engagement as possible to prevent the motor's torque from ripping the screws out. If worst comes to worse, JB Weld the screws in.
paperclip32 says:
Aug 31, 2010. 2:57 AM REPLY Great instructable,but I somewhat disagree with the premise of making an electric longboard.I think longboarding is about the experience,about pushing yourself(literally) to go that extra mile.An electric longboard just takes out the fun of riding a longboard,because you're pretty much capped at the speed of the motor,and pushing isn't an option because of the weight. But that's just my opinion.
denotsKO says:
Sep 2, 2010. 10:14 PM REPLY It is ideal for a person like me who has limited control of my left side due to nerve damage. I felt like a schmuck when I could no longer skate, but an electric drive board put me back on the streets.
paperclip32 says:
Woah.What happened?Are you better now?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
all1by says:
Aug 31, 2010. 6:21 AM REPLY Have you ever ridden an electric longboard? It's a lot of fun, and I believe it is actually a progression towards the original goal of longboarding: surfing on land. And this board is even more so. But that is just my opinion. As for the speed (if 15mph, 20mph with gear changes, isn't fast enough), the speed of the motor is not the limit- the motor itself is. You are by no means limited to CIM motors. There are hundreds of more powerful (in terms of rpm and torque) motors out there, including much more efficient and powerful brushless motors....the brushed CIM motors are just the tip of the iceberg. With a few hundred dollars in upgrades, I know I could change its topseed to well over 30. However, you are correct about pushing; while it is possible to push this board, it really isn't pleasant.
paperclip32 says:
Sep 1, 2010. 7:38 AM REPLY I know a shop by the beach that rents them.Will try them out sometime! As for surfing on land,I'll have to agree with you.That's where the sport started,am i right?
all1by says:
Yep. Just a warning, the boards they rent might not turn well (if the stock exkate we used was any indication).
paperclip32 says:
Sep 3, 2010. 2:30 AM REPLY I tried it out today,you were right about it not turning well. It was pretty cool,but the longboard I rented was topped at 5mph since it was a beachside park with tons of people. Sep 8, 2010. 1:20 PM REPLY
ArNe_ says:
(No REPLY button??) No sensorless. Making your own sensored speed controller won't be eazy and will take mutch more time. + a more expensive motor :) I don't think it need to be sensored with that power (can be wrong,, ...will see... ) :)
I measure the current of the motor to adjust the controll signal,, its not really the same as sensored control but better than nothing :) You need more speed but I need more torque :) For more speed you need better motors. If you use more motors you will have more torque but still the same speed. (II think you already know that) :) No problem :) I have the same controller as him to drive my revo (http://www.traxxas.com/products/promo/5605_promo.htm) Massive brushless power!!!! :D Top speed 65mph! :p
all1by says:
I'm not sure why the reply button disappeared.
I'm running sensored brushless on mine (not the board in this instructable). Like you said, it takes more time and more expensive motors. The reasons for using sensored control are: a. the motors are current (and therefore torque) controlled, allowing for precise acceleration control. b. no cogging because the sensors know what state the motor is in. With sensorless, you might find that you have to kick start the board. As for measuring motor current, I don't see how that could help you control the board if you're using sensorless control. Sensorless control is always voltage control, which means control via RPM and not torque. Another way of putting it is that if you slam on the throttle with a voltage controlled system, it will apply infinite (well, as much as the batteries or motor controller can handle) current until that throttle command (RPM) is reached. There is no direct control of current, so you don't have any direct control over acceleration (indirectly, you do control acceleration by slowly applying throttle so you don't burn out). Sensor vs. sensorless brushless control is a subject I strongly suggest reading up on if it interests you. I feel "better" is the wrong word, especially because I custom engineered (design and fabrication) them. For more speed, I'd need a motor with one or more of the following: less turns, shorter, weaker magnets, larger diameter tires. However, I felt around 25mph was plenty, so I designed for that. It is true that if I use more motors, and don't divide the current among the motors, then I will have more torque. Nice. I used to have a brushless Revo, too. It was an old Gorillamaxx conversion with a Neo 8XL and BK-electronics controller: 1800W. It could hit about 55mph. I sold it because I got sick of replacing twisted Ti driveshafts and shreaded hardened steel diff gears, haha.
ArNe_ says:
I use pwm control so the motor has always the same voltage,, and the same torque Much better than voltage control. Do you have pictures or videos of your other boards? :) I'm really interested :) I have steed drive shafts on it now :) I don't have much time for it now... But I see it on the bright side,, no more broken parts :p
all1by says:
Sep 9, 2010. 11:19 AM REPLY Yeah. There's a link to my blog in the instructable (and from there you can link to other blogs that are amazing sources of knowledge).
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
ArNe_ says:
If you take a total of 9S lipo battery's you have 33.3V and not 36V
all1by says:
Sep 2, 2010. 6:01 PM REPLY You didn't read everything. At full charge, a lipo cell is at 4.2V. At full discharge, it's at about 3V per cell (depending on your LVD or motor controller). Therefore, at max charge, 9S is 4.2*9 = 37.8V. At full discharge, 9S is 3*9 = 27V. Please actually read up on batteries before commenting.
ArNe_ says:
Sep 3, 2010. 9:03 AM REPLY The original batteries are 13,8V when totally charged. 13,8*3 = 41,4V. When using 10S lipo,, at max charge you have 4,2*10= 42V So you do have a little more power and still 30V when full discharged. I use 6 5SLipo's,, 18,5V 5200mah so you have with 10S3P ~37V and 15,8A (for larger runtimes) Its only a suggestion. Its a nice instructable. Do you have a video of it when driving?
all1by says:
Sep 3, 2010. 1:19 PM REPLY We didn't go with 10S because we were worried about over-volting the electronics module and frying it...but that's a good point about the lead acids. Still, we erred on the side of caution, and there is no noticeable speed loss, probably due to the CIM motors. That's a lot of battery. 6.6Ah is plenty for this boards purposes (getting around campus). The other board I'm building will have a 12S setup with either 10Ah or 15Ah. For vids, see the link in step 10.
ArNe_ says:
I'm using 1 big 1KW motor. (35A) So I need the 15Ah :) nice vids You already now the top speed? :)
all1by says:
Sep 4, 2010. 8:30 PM REPLY Dang, what's you're top speed and acceleration like? Our top speed is around 15mph. The other one I'm building will be using four 500W hub motors and it should have a top speed of just under 30.
ArNe_ says:
Its not finished jet :) I'm building my own speed controller for it. And I also use a mountainboard wit air tires Top speed will be (at least) 40 Km/h (25 mph) If you go faster it becomes a little dangerous... But it's possible :p I'll post a video when finished and tested :) 4 500W motors? I think you can reach the 40 mph with that :p See this link: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=12064 The board with 4 motors is so awesome!! :p
all1by says:
Are you using sensored control?
For my board, I calculated the top speed to be just under 30mph. My wheels are 4" in diameter compared to the 8" for air tires, so for a given power rating, my top speed will be lower (however, my acceleration can be quicker). THAT IS AWESOME! Haha, wow. Thanks for sharing the link! He's using sensor-less control, so he gets cogging at start up. I like his design though. Very simple and relatively easy to implement. My hub motor design takes a lot of machining and wouldn't be able to handle the kind of shock loads a mountainboard experiences.
all1by says:
Sep 9, 2010. 1:25 AM REPLY Oh, and after reading more of the thread, it turns out he switched to sensored control (by just adding sensors to sensorless motors...very easy to do) and his performance improved greatly.
Rimwulf says:
Sep 5, 2010. 8:37 PM REPLY I bought one from Exkate when they were still small, and I found out how expensive they were. See I bought it from my local Spencers for about $39 because it was their last one in stock and had it for years. So it got cheaper but the battery was existed from sitting so long unused. Then I made the mistake of returning it it was only after I found how much it was worth. The only thing I didn't (don't) like about it (them) is that it uses a radio transmitter, I'd prefer wired because there is no chance of someone being on the same frequency. But one question: Doesn't the belt and reduction wheel look a little to close to the ground for turning?
all1by says:
Sep 6, 2010. 6:38 PM REPLY The new ones use digital link up, which means it's physically impossible for someone to be on the same frequency...it's very reassuring to know the board won't randomly fly out from under me. Nope. They don't interfere with the ground when turning. The motor bracket will scrape sometimes because of the 1/2" ground clearance, but it protects the gear and belt.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
unbattlebots says:
lols they are frc cim motors, but hey you can buy them online anyway and with pre mounted planetary gaer reductions too
all1by says:
Yes, I know you can, I never denied that. But this one is the most compact design I've seen.
unbattlebots says:
im sorry if i came off in that manner, i was meerly stating something
rasta_mon_ya_know says:
thats rad mannn smoke a duby on dat sunbitch i like it alot
huston says:
With all the materials, what the cost of this project?
all1by says:
See step 9
all1by says:
Which one?
all1by says:
Sep 2, 2010. 6:10 PM REPLY I've never seen it before. Can you send me links to pics? Regardless, no one has posted an instructable on a similar drive that I can find.
menahunie says:
Sep 2, 2010. 2:47 PM REPLY I can not wait for the high speed face plant you will do with this board. NO GROUND CLEARANCE. The minute you hit an unlevel surface the motor; pulley; battery will snag on the ground and "face plant"... The motor should have been mounted in the kicker area - more ground clearance. Battery made using 18650 li-ion batteries; longer and thinner; more ground clearance. I have a plug on the rear for a speed controller; trigger type to squeeze on how fast I want to go.. I machined a custom rear truck with a solid axle that DRIVES BOTH WHEELS..TOTAL WEIGHT ADDED TO THE BOARD ABOUT TEN POUNDS.
all1by says:
Sep 2, 2010. 6:09 PM REPLY No high speed face plants yet. There's 1/2" of ground clearance, which is fine for cracks in sidewalks, minor inclines, and minor pavement holes/cracks. Bigger stuff is easily avoided. The only thing that contacts the ground is the motor bracket, everything else is protected. The motors were mounted as high as possible without interfering with the deck during turns. We could have mounted them above the deck (the "kicker area"), but then it wouldn't have been very sleek looking. So you used 18650 li-ions? Cool. Our batteries are not the ground clearance limiters in our case, so we went with the more energy dense (aka, lighter) Lipos. If you're using a solid axle, do you experience turning issues (such as slip, poor turning radius, etc)? It's cool you machined your own truck. You should post an instructable about your design.
gripracer says:
Why not use a limited slip differential? Was a second motor cheaper to implement?
all1by says:
Sep 2, 2010. 12:16 PM REPLY Because any sort of differential/axle/driveshaft addition or modification would have required a complete rebuild of the rear truck assembly, which would have meant basically designing our own trucks and machining them. We only had 3 weeks (5 days a week and 4 hours a day) to design and build (and mess up and re-design) everything, so we went with two motors. These motors are only $28 each, so dual motors probably IS cheaper to implement, but I'm not sure. I haven't checked prices on small diffs, nor looked at how much it would cost to build one for ourselves. It would be very cool if someone could incorporate a limited slip differential into their electric longboard.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/
geegn1 says:
this is the coolest f***ing thing i have ever seen. god bless MIT
1up says:
Aug 30, 2010. 11:00 AM REPLY I have been working on an electric mountain board for a while and have been trying to figure out an efficient way to mount the motor. This is a good idea, thank you!
all1by says:
You're welcome! I'd love to see pics of the mountain board when its done.
1up says:
Not a problem! In fact, I will most likely be making an Instructable of it.
killerjackalope says:
Aug 29, 2010. 4:29 PM REPLY Excellent Instructable, really great project, I've been wanting to pick up a cheap electric skateboard to work on as a pet project and this gives me a great base of ideas to start with. My one criticism would be that the project needs broken in to smaller steps for easier reading...
all1by says:
Yeah, I probably should have split step 5 up...
robomaniac says:
Nice insutructables, I like the way you use the 1:4.5 gear reduction with the CIM motors. Really compact.
TOCO says:
where did you get the strip of red leds?
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Longboard-Build-Clever-CIM-Motor-Drivet/