Packaging Manual

Chapter 16 Liz Claiborne Accessories Packaging Guidelines: Handbags/Small Leather Goods Overview
Scope
This manual applies to packaging of all finished product manufactured both domestically and over seas. The document should be applied as a general requirements guide and does not limit the supplier in taking added measures, based on experience, to assure that products are free from shipping defects and meet the requirements for labeling and tagging. It should also be noted that specialized packaging requirements, by style number, previously agreed upon by Liz Claiborne accessories must be followed. These special agreements are outside the scope of this manual. The Quality Program Packaging Manual describes the overall packaging requirements necessary to assume uniformity of goods and product quality received by distribution operations and our customer. These requirements or guidelines will be required by all suppliers of Liz Claiborne Accessories. It should serve as the basic requirements for all suppliers to follow to assure the manufactured product are free from shipping defects and that these packages will comply with distribution center size and weight requirements. This manual is broken into: Exterior Packaging Requirements Interior Packaging Requirements Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement Mexico Labeling Requirements for Accessories Accessories Standard Test Methods
Purpose
Elements of the Program
Element Definition Exterior Packaging These requirements apply to cartons, taping materials, and labeling used in a shipment. In some cases, the contents of a shipping carton will contain smaller (inner) cartons and their contents. In this case, the outermost carton will be referred to as the master carton and the internal cartons as the inner cartons. Requirements for these shipments will differ from master cartons shipped without the inner cartons.
Continued on next page
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Overview, Continued
Elements of the Program (continued)
Element Interior Packaging
Definition These requirements refer to the packaging needs of individually manufactured items. This will include paper filler, Polybag requirements, labeling, protective strap wrapping, hangtags, etc. This section describes the packaging requirements for logical groups. The following hierarchy will be used to classify these groups: Handbags Material used Silhouette Sales requirements Small leather goods Silhouette Sales requirements. This section illustrates the proper placement of contents description. This section describes the labeling requirements for accessories for Mexico. This section describes the standard test methods used for accessories.
Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement Mexico Labeling Requirements for Accessories Accessories Standard Test Methods
In this Chapter
The topics described in this chapter are located as indicated below: Topic Exterior Packaging Interior Packaging Packaging Diagrams Mexico Labeling Requirements for Accessories Accessories Standard Test Methods See Page 16-3 16-7 16-14 16-19 16-24
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Exterior Packaging
Introduction
Boxing, taping, and labeling requirements are outlined in this section. The topics described in this section are located as indicated below: Topic Packaging Requirements Carton Size and Dimensions See Page 16-4 16-5
In this Section
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Packaging Requirements Carton Tape and Labeling Requirements

Carton Sealing Tape (Normal Conditions)
All master and inner cartons should be sealed with LC theft deterant tape. (See Carton Packing Requirements in Section 7.)
Carton Sealing Tape (Special Handling)
All master and inner cartons should be sealed with yellow plastic based tape for the following special handling conditions: Off standard merchandise that may be potential seconds Advance air shipments on new products Experimental packaging tests. All master and applicable inner cartons should contain a green quality alert sticker for the following conditions: Sales samples designated for quality testing Production reference samples for quality review Repair and/or replacement parts. Refer to the Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement section of this manual.
Quality Alert Stickers
Labeling
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Carton Size and Dimensions
Master Cartons with Inner Cartons
The following requirements are for Liz Claiborne Label only. Refer to individual store manuals for Special Markets. The following information applies to handbags and small leather goods: No. 1 Requirement Corrugated construction fiberboard of suitable strength for export. Burst test: 200 lbs. Edge crush test: 32 lbs. Master carton size options: Option Length Width A B C D E 3 4 5 21 26 27 29 35 13.5 19 21 19 20 Height
3/4/6/8/12 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18
Gross Weight Max 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs.
Reinforcements: Heavy cardboard or chipboard inserts must be added to the top and bottom panels of the inner carton. Sealing tape: Top and bottom flaps must be sealed with theft deterant tape in an H pattern, see diagram on page 15. (See Chapter 7 for tape.) Carton markings: Carton should be marked as described on pages 15 and 16. Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement.
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Carton Size and Dimensions, Continued
Master Cartons with Product
The following requirements are for Liz Claiborne Label only. Refer to individual store manuals for Special Markets. The following information applies to handbags and small leather goods: No. 1 Requirement Corrugated construction fiberboard of suitable strength for export. Burst test: 200 lbs. Edge crush test: 32 lbs. Master carton size options: Option Length Width A B C D E 3 4 5 21 26 27 29 35 13.5 19 21 19 20 Height
3/4/6/8/12 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18 4/6/8/12/18
Gross Weight Max 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs.
Reinforcements: Heavy cardboard or chipboard inserts must be added to the top and bottom panels of the inner carton. Sealing tape: Top and bottom flaps must be sealed with theft deterant tape in an H pattern, see diagram on page 15. (See Chapter 7 for tape.) Carton markings: Carton should be marked as described on pages 15 and 16. Cartons marking location symbol reference and UPC and CIB sticker placement.
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Interior Packaging
Introduction
Interior packaging requirements are outlined in this section. The topics described in this section are located as indicated below: Topic General Guidelines Miscellaneous Guidelines See Page 16-8 16-13
In this Section
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General Guidelines
Silica Gel (Desiccant) Packets
All silica gel packets must be printed to indicate, Do Not Eat on each packet and must be easily read. The designation dangerous is unnecessary and misleading; do not use packets with this marking. Handbags and BOSs: each to have 1 or 2 packets inside the body of the bag only. No packets to be placed in Polybag as this leaves an indentation on the outer surface of the bag. SLGs, flat goods: 3 to 4 packets per inner carton. No packets to be placed in individual piece. Summer months (May through September): Due to high humidity, it is advisable to increase the number of packets during this period. The additional packets can be placed randomly in the carton with attention to placement to avoid imprints. Handbags: label to be sewn in left seam in the same compartment as the patch. SLGs: label to be sewn 1 to 3 mm from the top edges of the pocket to the top of the woven label. Code construction: XXXYYYYZZ where: XXX is the three-digit factory code. In some cases, a two-digit code can be assigned yielding a XXYYYYZZ code construction. YYYY is a two-month period indicating the date of manufacture. It should represent the ship date of the finished product. Dates cover a two-month period with only 6 four-digit code variations per year. These codes are; 0102, 0304, 0506, 0708, 0910, 1112. ZZ represents the last two digits of the year of manufacture.
Interior Woven Label
Production Date Codes
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General Guidelines, Continued
Production Date Codes (continued)
Example: 110030401 represents a product shipped by factory number 110 manufactured during the months of 0304 (March/April) in the year of 2001. Factories are permitted to use up leftover stickers in the event they run into the next month. No sticker should be used that is more than one month past its stated date. If the factory runs short near the end of the month, they may start using the next months sticker a bit early. Factories are responsible for obtaining their own sticker, based on samples that are provided at the beginning of the business relationship. As of 08/30/94, X-factory (round) and as of 09/30/94, X-factory (rectangular) stickers are no longer necessary. This assuming that only Liz new magnetic snap (without the inner lip on the female half of the snap) is being used. These snaps will arrive at the factory with clear tape imprinted with Liz Claiborne to assist in keeping them separated from other magnetic snaps. Handbags and BOSs with gussets and bottoms: paper stuffing is required in all Liz Claiborne and special markets products, including but not limited to: PVC, leather, fabrics, PP straw, natural straw, and paper crochet. Handbags and BOSs without gussets or flat bags: paper stuffing is required by inserting into the main cavity several soft paper tissues that are folded into neat squares according to the product sizes but not so large of a square that would interfere with the snap function. The paper must be of reasonable quality, white or bone in color, not so stiff that it shows through the outside of the bag (soft tissue is preferred). The paper must be free of dirt. Under stuffing and over stuffing bags must be avoided. Over stuffing a bag causes visual appeal problems and hinders sale at the retail store. Under stuffing a bag can cause the bag itself to become damaged during shipping.
Randolph Rand Stickers
Stuffing
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Stuffing (continued)
The stuffing standard for individual styles is set during the sales samples review. At this time, designers, and/or the technical designer, confirm the stuffing standard. The standard is reconfirmed during TD review of the Production Reference Samples. 1. Remove all clear plastic covering on logo plates, and zipper pull during final packing stages. 2. The general guidelines to be followed are: All protective covering should be removed from hardware during the final packaging stages. There may be cases where the protective wrapping needs to remain in place to avoid in-shipment damage. If protective wrapping remains in place, it must be easy to remove with bare hands. No scissor or knives may be used to avoid damaging the product. 1. Small silhouettes, (STZ and MTZ) partially expose shoulder straps, the balance is folded, wrapped, and placed into the partially zipped bag. (Take care not to crease the strap when folding.) Distance from top of exposed shoulder strap to bottom of bag to be 15 +/- 1. Exception: Baby Satchel is displayed by the bale handles; therefore, fully tuck folded straps into the bag, being careful to avoid creasing the handles or the body of the bag. 2. Large silhouettes (F/FLAP, L/SAT, HOBO, S/S, TOTE, CL) fully expose the shoulder strap outside the bag folded and wrapped. 3. Double handle totes with handles TTT over 6 the preferred method is to fold the handles over the front and back covers and use chip board separators to protect the covers from handles to avoid handles indentation. 4. BOSs Fold spaghetti strap like a bow tie, wrap and leave outside of bag.
Protective Wrapping Hardware and Shoulder Straps
Shoulder Strap Wrapping
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Shoulder Strap Wrapping (continued)
5. General pointers: a. Full Length Poly sleeve or plastic tube should be eliminated. If essential, it must be easy to remove with bare hands. The reason is, the stores will put this on display with tubes still on the strap. b. Wrapping used to tie the shoulder strap must be easily removable. Cellophane tape is not acceptable, unless the length is short and the wrapping material can be torn by hand around the tape. c. String ties are not acceptable. The objective is to avoid the need for scissors and knives when removing the wrappings. d. Draw strings we must enforce design specifications on shoulder strap length. If it is too long, the bag drags on the floor at retail. 1. Opening to be at the right end of product (same end where the hangtag is placed). Purpose is to try to reduce damage returns for cuts, which occur when store distribution centers slice the Polybag to install their own tags. 2. Use tape to seal the Polybag; no heat sealing. 3. The Polybag must be clean, may be either clear or frosted. All bags require punch holes plus printed safety notice: WARNING To avoid danger of suffocation, keep away from babies and children. DO NOT USE IN CRIBS, BEDS, CARRIAGES, or PLAY PENS. THIS IS NOT A TOY 4. Exceptions. Polybags which are 6 or less in length or width. Punch holes are required but no printed warning required. 5. Polybag with product require a UPC sticker. See page 18.
Polybags
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Hangtags
1. Hangtags should be placed inside the Polybag. Tags, however, must not be in direct contact with the surfaces of the pc-goods. 2. All handbags and small leather goods hangtags to be affixed on the right side of the product (as you look at the front of the bag) on the shoulder straps attachment (not the shoulder strap itself). 3. Satchel hangtags to be attached to the handle loop and not on the detachable/removable shoulder strap. These are general guidelines. Exceptions will be advised case by case. 4. Quality of UPC and CIB tags and stickers: must be readable by verifier with a grade A or B. Anything else must not be used.
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Miscellaneous Guidelines
Miscellaneous Item
Hong Kong office is controlling the number of pieces per carton/style to insure that all factories making the same style are putting the same amount of pieces in the carton. This is essential for accurate order picking.
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Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement
Introduction
This section illustrates the proper placement of contents description. The topics described in this section are located as indicated below: Topic Carton Marking Location Diagram Master Cartons Markings & UPC & CIB Sticker Placement Inner Carton Markings & UPC Sticker Position Polybag with Product & UPC Sticker Placement See Page 16-15 16-16 16-17 16-18
In this Section
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Carton Marking Location Diagram
Note
For Liz Claiborne Label only. Refer to individual store manuals for Special Markets.
Diagram 1: Carton Marking Location
Diagram 2: H Method
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Master Cartons Markings & UPC & CIB Sticker Placement
Note
For Liz Claiborne, Sigrid Olsen, Lucky Brands, Ellen Tracy brands. Special Markets refer to individual store manual. Side marking (longer side of carton C and D) A. UPC position at left top corner of carton to be 1 down from top of carton and from side edge of carton (both sides) To the right of the UPC sticker write the number of pieces that are in the carton. B. CIB label at right lower corner of carton to be 1 up from bottom edge of carton and from side edge of carton.
Description
Diagram 3: Master Carton Markings
Diagram 4: Master Carton Markings
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Inner Carton Markings & UPC Sticker Position
Description
A. STYLE NO: COLOR: QTY: See diagram B. UPC sticker position is left top corner, to be 1 down from top of carton and from side edge of carton. See diagram
Diagram 5: Inner Carton Markings
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Polybag with Product & UPC Sticker Placement
Description
A. After the product is packed and polybagged, one UPC sticker is affixed at the center of the polybag and the front of the product. Fig. A B. Exception to above: if the center of the product includes metal plaque or logo the UPC sticker is affixed 2 from handbags 1 for slgs to the right of the hardware over a flat surface of the product. Fig. B
Diagram 6: Polybag with Product
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Mexico Labeling Requirements for Accessories
Introduction
This section describes the labeling requirements for accessories for Mexico. The topics described in this section are located as indicated below: Topic Overall Approach to International Labeling and Marking Mexico Requirements Accessories Labeling Instructions for Mexico See Page 16-20 16-21 16-22
In this Section
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Overall Approach to International Labeling and Marking
Overall Approach
The overall approach in labeling product for our International destinations is to meet all of the local product labeling and marking requirements for each respective country, while at the same time minimizing the changes required to the existing labeling or marking already on product being shipped to the USA. Where possible, we want to use multi-lingual labels and markings that will meet the requirements of all destinations and reduce the need to produce special labels or markings for individual countries. In every way possible we want to eliminate the need for country-specific labels and markings to reduce cost and complexity and make it easier for our suppliers to avoid mistakes. It will be acceptable to use labels and markings that have been made specifically for one country (e.g. in Spanish only) to use up existing inventory, provided all of the requirements that the specific country have been met, but all production should be converted to multi-country labels and markings as soon as possible. When it is necessary to put country-specific information on our products the intent is to add this information only on a separate label or marking.
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Mexico Requirements
Requirements
Accessories products shipped to Mexico are required to have appropriate information in Spanish on the product in a format that is acceptable under Mexican law. In the vast majority of cases, all of the multi-lingual labels or markings specified for use on accessories products shipped to the United States will be acceptable in Mexico. This will include the Brand Name label, the English/Spanish/French multi-lingual label containing the size, fiber content, country-of-origin, care instructions and RN # and CA #, and any labels with style/lot # or contractor code number. The Liz Claiborne label databases have been set up to automatically translate into Spanish all relevant information to meet Mexican requirements. IN THESE CIRCUMSTANCES, ALL ACCESSORIES PRODUCTS FOR SALE IN MEXICO WILL HAVE EXACTLY THE SAME LABELS AS ARE USED ON PRODUCTS FOR SALE IN THE UNITED STATES. THERE ARE CIRCUMSTANCES WHEN THE LABELING ON THE PRODUCTS IS NOT SUFFICIENT TO MEET MEXICOS REQUIREMENTS AND IN THOSE CASES A SEPARATE LABEL WITH THE MEXICO-SPECIFIC INFORMATION MUST BE USED.
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Accessories Labeling Instructions for Mexico

Leather and PVC Handbags Non-Leather and Non-PVC Handbags Small Leather Goods Leather/PVC Belts
Scarves/ Shawls
Main Brand Label Size Content Lining Content Care Instruction Country of Origin RN & CA # Mexican Importer Name and RFC # Style #, Contractor Code Hangtag, Hangtag Placement Supplemental Hangtag Polybag Polybag Sticker Hangars Carton Specifications Carton Packing
Same as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA N/A Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements Same as USA, but not essential Allowed Not Required
Same as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA N/A Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements Same as USA, but not essential Not Allowed Required
Same as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA
Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA N/A Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements Same as USA, but not essential Allowed Not Required
Same as USA No size for US. Mexico units must say "Unitalla" Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Not Required Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Same as USA Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements Same as USA, but not essential Required
Same as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA N/A N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Size not required on polybag Link to Supplier Manual Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Allowed Not Required
Carton Markings Barcodes, UCC 128, CIB labels China Production Annex III
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Accessories Labeling Instructions for Mexico, Continued

Textile Belts Metal /NonTextile Belts Leather & PVC Gloves Textile Gloves Hats
Main Brand Label Size
Same as USA Same MultiLingual as USA
Same as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Not required for Non textiles. Contact Accessories Production for combination styles N/A N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Size not required on polybag Link to Supplier Manual Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Allowed Not Required
Same as USA Same MultiLingual as USA
Same as USA No size for US Mexico units must say "Unitalla" Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Not Required Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Size not required on polybag Same as USA Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Not Allowed Required
Same as USA No size for US Mexico units must say "Unitalla" Content required on all hats, not just wool Content required if lined Care instructions required Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA N/A Same as USA Same as USA Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Required
Content
Same MultiLingual as USA
Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Mexican Importer Information Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Size not required on polybag Same as USA Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Allowed Not Required
Lining Content Care Instruction Country of Origin RN & CA # Mexican Importer Name and RFC # Style #, Contractor Code Hangtag, Hangtag Placement Supplemental Hangtag Polybag Polybag Sticker Hangars Carton Specifications Carton Packing
N/A N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same as USA Not Required Same as USA Same as USA but no price English only Same as USA Same as USA Size not required on polybag Link to Supplier Manual Same as USA Loose pieces permitted at end of Source Order Mexico Carton Requirements in Supplier Manual Same as USA, but not essential Not Allowed Required
Carton Markings Barcodes, UCC 128, CIB labels China Production Annex III
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Accessories Standard Test Methods
Introduction
This section describes the standard test methods used for accessories. The test methods described in this section are located as indicated below: # 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 Test Method Colorfastness to Crocking Taber Abrasion Resistance Initial/Complete Scuff Cracking Resistance/Flex Test Thickness Test Cleanability (Food/Ink) Welt Abrasion Resistance Water Resistance of Leather/PVC Oil Resistance of Leather/PVC Leather Shrinkage Finish Adhesion of Leather/PVC Scratch Resistance of Leather/PVC (Manual) Scratch Resistance of Leather/PVC (Ford) Leather Break/Pipiness PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing Cold Crack Resistance of PU/PVC Trapezoid Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric Blocking of PU/PVC Seam Strength Environmental Cycling Regular Adhesion of Hardware Cross Hatch Adhesion of Hardware Pencil Hardness Accelerated Aging (High Humidity) Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven) Impact Resistance Tensile Test of Hardware Tensile Test of Rivets Tensile/Cycling Test of Snaps Ferrous Presence See Page 16-26 16-28 16-30 16-32 16-33 16-35 16-36 16-37 16-38 16-39 16-40 16-41 16-43 16-44 16-45 16-46 16-48 16-51 16-52 16-54 16-55 16-56 16-57 16-58 16-59 16-60 16-61 16-62 16-64 16-66
In this Section
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Accessories Standard Test Methods, Continued
In this Section (continued)
# 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157
Test Method Operability/Cycling Test of Zippers Torque Test Tensile Test of Crosswise Zipper Tape Tensile Test of Zipper Puller at 45/90 Degree Angles Sulfur Dip Test/Silver Plating Accelerated Tarnish Test Specific Gravity Nitric Acid Test/Lacquer Coating on Brass and Nickel Plated Hardware Colorfastness to Washing of Fabrics Colorfastness to Perspiration of Fabrics Colorfastness to Water of Fabrics Flammability of Clothing/Apparel Textiles Dimensional Stability After Laundering of Fabrics Waistband Stretch of Tights Leg Rope Pull of Tights Resistance to Hairspray of Fabrics Resistance to Perfume of Fabrics Fabric/Momme Weight Pilling Resistance of Fabrics Thread Count Water Repellency of Fabrics/Spray Test Appearance After Laundering of Fabrics Tensile/Elongation Test of Thread Bend Test Handle Integrity Test Tumble Test Wear Test Volumetric Sizing of Pantyhose
See Page 16-67 16-70 16-72 16-74 16-75 16-77 16-79 16-82 16-83 16-86 16-88 16-90 16-101 16-104 16-105 16-106 16-107 16-109 16-114 16-116 16-117 16-119 16-121 16-122 16-123 16-125 16-126 16-127
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Standard Test Method # 100 - Colorfastness to Crocking
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of color transferred from the surface of colored materials to other surfaces by rubbing. B. Reference Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method 8 1996. A. Crockmeter B. Crockmeter squares measuring 2 inches C. AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #100: Step 1 2 3 Action A: Dry Crock Test Place a 2 by 5 specimen on the base of the crockmeter resting flat on the abrasive paper. Place specimen holder over specimen. Mount a white test cloth square, the weave parallel with the direction of rubbing, over the end of the finger which projects downward from the weighted sliding arm. Use the spiral wire clip to hold the test square in place. Position the clip with the loops pointed upwards. Lower the covered finger onto the test specimen. Set and run the motorized tester for 10 complete turns. Remove the white test cloth square. B: Wet Crock Test Complete steps 1 and 2 from the Dry Crock Test procedure provided above. Thoroughly wet out white test square in distilled water, blot with paper towel. Prepare only one square at a time. Complete steps 3, 4, and 5 from the Dry Crock Test procedure provided above. Air-dry the white test square before evaluating. Run dry and wet crock in separate areas of specimen. Do not run one over the other.
Apparatus
Procedure
4 5 1 2 3 4 5
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Standard Test Method # 100 - Colorfastness to Crocking,

Continued
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the amount of color transferred from the specimen to the white test square using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No change #4.0 Slight change #3.0 Moderate change #2.0 Severe change #1.0 Complete change.
Specification
A. #3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Release/ Revision
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Standard Test Method # 101 - Taber Abrasion Resistance Initial/Complete Scuff
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the abrasion resistance of leather. PVC and fabric
Apparatus
A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H.
Taber Abraser, Model # 5130 Specimen Mounting Cards (S-37-l or S-37) CS-7 Calibrase Abrasive Wheels for leather and PVC CS-1O Calibrase Abrasive Wheels for fabric 1000 Gram Weight attachment S-11 Abrasive Discs for refacing the wheels Taber Abraser Vacuum 4 X Magnifying Glass with illumination
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #101 Step 1 2 3 4 Action Cut two 4 round specimens from each sample. Mount specimens on a specimen mounting card and place one of them on Taber Abraser. Turn vacuum on to remove residue. When testing leather and PVC use the CS-17 wheels and when testing fabric use the CS-10 wheels. Stop at the point at which initial scuff of leather/PVC occurs or deterioration of fabric occurs. Record # of cycles. Run the second sample and stop when complete scuff occurs. Record number of cycles (complete circular wear). Clean the abrasive wheels between each sample being tested with S-11 abrasive discs with 1,000 gram weight in place, 10 cycles.
5 6
Evaluation
A. Initial scuff evaluation is the point at which the sample starts to show signs of degradation, i.e. color loss/holes, at any point on the circular wear pattern. B. Complete scuff evaluation is the point at which the sample shows signs of complete degradation at most points on the circular wear pattern.
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Standard Test Method # 101 - Taber Abrasion Resistance Initial/Complete Scuff, Continued
Specification
A. B. C. D.
Leather Trim 75 cycles for initial scuff and 150 cycles for complete scuff. Leather Body 35 cycles for initial scuff and 75 cycles for complete scuff PVC 75 cycles for initial scuff and 150 cycles for complete scuff. Fabric 75 cycles for initial scuff and 150 cycles for complete scuff.
Release/ Revision
Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
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Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate flexibility and adhesion of a finish on leather and PVC materials to be used for handbags, small leather goods and belts. A. Bally Flexometer: this machine consists of a stationary clamp (lower) and a rotating clamp (upper) that move at 100 cycles per minute. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #102: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Cut a sample measuring 1 x 2 Mount sample into the upper clamp on the Bally Flexometer with one end measuring 1 folded in half so that the front sides are together. Mount sample into the lower clamp on the Bally Flexometer with the other end measuring 1 folded in half so that the back sides are together. Begin flexing the sample to the standard number of flexes (20,000 flexes for leather and 50,000 flexes for PVC). Check the state of the sample every hour and stop prior to completion if there is a change in the appearance of the sample.
Apparatus
Procedure
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Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test,

Continued
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the sample after the standard number of flexes or at the point of failure under a 4 X illuminated magnifying glass. 1 Have cracks appeared? 2. Does the finish powder or dull in the fold? 3. Is the adherence of the finish impaired by the flexing motion? 4. Is there stress whitening? A. Leather must flex 20,000 cycles with no change. B. PVC must flex 50,000 cycles with no change. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-31
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 103 - Thickness Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the thickness of leather and non-leather materials, such as PVC, fabric, straw, acrylic mirrors, etc A. Gage, spring-type graduated in 0.1 mm having a flat presser foot and high spring force. We use model TGO 200P from International Advisory Service Ltd. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #103: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Place the portion of the sample to be measured between the anvil and the presser foot of the spring type gauge in such a manner that the sample is contact with the whole area of the anvil. With the sample held in this position, compress the thumb lever of the gauge. Allow the thumb to slide off the lever so that gage presser foot snaps onto the sample. Read thickness to nearest 0.01 mm. Minimum of five readings should be taken.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. The average of five specimens is reported. A. Acrylic mirrors 2.0 mm B. Leather and PVC should measure what the supplier states. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-32
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink)

Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the effect of various potential staining agents and determine the effect of the cleaning solution on the sample. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. Beaker Brush Blue or black ink ball point pen Cleaning Agent (Tide and distilled water for fabrics and straw, Meltonian Leather Lotion for PVC and Ormids Reptile & Exotic Leather Cleaner & Conditioner for leather) Food Staining Solution (by volume): 1 coffee 1 cola 1 catsup 1/4 sugar 1/4 100% alcohol 1/8 motor oil Paper Towels Soft Cleaning Brush for fabric.
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #104: Step 1 2 3 Action A. For Food Staining Solution: Each test specimen shall have the staining solution applied with a brush to a 1 X 1 area minimum. Allow the solution to dry. Spot clean the surface with the appropriate cleaning agent mentioned above: a. When cleaning fabric or straw apply the Tide and distilled water mixture to the stain and brush gently with a soft brush. Remove excess cleaning solution with a damp paper towel and pat dry. b. When cleaning leather or PVC apply appropriate cleaning agent with a paper towel or soft cloth and rub.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-33
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink), Continued
Procedure (continued)
Step 1 2 3
Action B. For Ink (ball point blue/black pen): Draw a 3 line on the surface of the specimen Allow the ink mark to set for 10 minutes. Repeat steps 3a/b above.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate any resulting stain on the sample due to either the food staining solution, ink or cleaning agent. Rate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe A. Food Stain: No Stain B. Ink Stain: Slight Stain Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-34
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 105 - Welt Abrasion Resistance
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the abrasion resistance of leather/PVC materials in the form of a welt. A. Wyzenbeek Wear Tester B. Abradant #8 Duck Cloth C. Abradant Fine Flint Paper Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #105: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Clamp the specimen into the grips of the Wyzenbeek Wear Tester. Use #8 Duck Cloth on the surface of the cylinder. Set the tension at 2 lbs. of force and the pressure at 4 lbs. of force. Run the wear tester to the point at which the finish just begins to rub off the sample (initial finish rub off).
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record the number of cycles for the initial finish rub off. A. No set number value has been established to determine pass/fail. Comparative results to a known material will commonly be used. Not a commonly used test. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-35
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 106 - Water Resistance of Leather/PVC
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the water resistance of leather/PVC.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D.
Distilled Water Dropping Bottles Timer Paper Towels
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #106: Step 1 2 3 Action Place the specimen flat on a smooth horizontal surface. Place a small drop of distilled water on the test specimen. Observe the drop for five minutes. If there is no penetration of the distilled water into the sample after five minutes, wipe with a paper towel.
Evaluation
A. If no penetration occurs within 5 minutes from the time the distilled water was placed on the sample then no water absorption is reported. B. Record any staining or blistering of the sample. C. Water may be absorbed but staining or blistering may not occur. This condition should be noted. D. For leather check sample after 24 hours and note any changes to specimen and if the specimen reverts to original condition. This step is not necessary for PVC. A. A 5 minute rating with no stain or blister retained after 24 hours. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-36
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 107 - Oil Resistance of Leather/PVC
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the oil resistance of leather/PVC
Apparatus
A B. C. D.
Dropping Bottles Timer Mazolla 100% Corn Oil Paper Towels
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #107: Step 1 2 3 Action Place the specimen flat on a smooth horizontal surface. Place a small drop of oil on the test specimen. Observe the drop for 5 minutes. If there is no penetration of the oil into the sample after five minutes, wipe with a paper towel.
Evaluation
A. If no penetration occurs within 5 minutes from the time the oil drop was placed on the sample then no oil absorption is reported. B. Record any staining or blistering of the sample. C. Oil may be absorbed but staining or blistering may not occur. This condition should be noted. D. For leather, check the sample after 24 hours and note any changes to specimen and if the specimen reverts to original condition. This step is not necessary for PVC. A. A 5 minute rating with no stain or blister retained after 24 hours. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-37
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 108 - Leather Shrinkage
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine whether a piece of leather has been completely tanned.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D. E.
Hot Plate Distilled Water Tweezers 1000 ml beaker Timer
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #108: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Cut one 2 x specimen from sample. Boil 1000 ml distilled water in a beaker. Hold a 2 x specimen at outer edge of one corner with tweezers and submerge into boiling water for fifteen seconds. Remove specimen from boiling water.
Evaluation
A. Calculate the percent shrinkage. Formula is: Original measurement (2 1/2), minus measurement after removal from boiling water, divided by original measurement, multiplied by one hundred. A. 10% maximum shrinkage Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10198 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-38
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 109 - Finish Adhesion of Leather/PVC
Purpose and Scope
A. To check the adhesion of the finish to leather/PVC.
Apparatus
A. 3M Scotch Magic Tape 3/4 wide #8l0 Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #109: Step 1 2 Action With the tip of the finger, press and rub 1 strip of the tape onto the surface of the sample making sure one end of the tape is not attached to sample. Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to the leather/PVC and detach it with one quick pulling motion
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record the approximate percentage of color loss from the leather/PVC surface. A. No adhesion loss Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-39
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 110 - Scratch Resistance of Leather/PVC (Manual)
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the resistance and recovery of leather/PVC to scratching.
Apparatus
A. Fingernail/Finger Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #110: Step 1 2 Action Apply moderate force with your fingernail and make one scratch along the surface of the 2 x 6 specimen about three inches long. With the flesh part of your finger, rub the scratch to try to restore it to its original condition.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the degree of scratch using the following ratings: No scratch: no change Slight scratch: surface marks are shallow Severe scratch: surface marks are deep B. Evaluate the degree of recovery using the following ratings: Complete recovery: no evidence of scratch Slight recovery: some of scratch mark is eliminated No recovery: scratch mark does not change appearance A. Slight scratch after recovery Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-40
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 111 - Scratch Resistance of Leather/PVC (Ford)
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the resistance and recovery of leather/PVC to scratching.
Apparatus
A. Crockmeter B. Ford Finger Attachment Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #111: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Place a 2 x 6 specimen on the base of the crockmeter resting flat on the abrasive paper. Place the specimen holder over the specimen as an added means to prevent slippage. Lower the crock meter arm with Ford Finger attached onto the test specimen. Set and run the motorized tester for 10 complete cycles in a back and forth motion. Repeat steps 1 4 in the opposite direction of the sample.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the degree of scratch in each direction, using the following ratings: No Scratch: no change Slight scratch surface marks are shallow Severe scratch: surface marks are deep B. Evaluate the degree of recovery in each direction, using the following ratings: Complete recovery: no evidence of scratch Slight recovery: some of scratch mark is eliminated No recovery: scratch mark does not change appearance
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-41
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 111 - Scratch Resistance of Leather/PVC (Ford), Continued
Specification
A. Slight scratch after recovery Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-42
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 112 - Leather Break/Pipiness
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the break/pipiness scale of leather
Apparatus
A. Satra Break/Pipiness Tube and Scale Standard 174 Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #112: Step 1 Action Place leather grain side up and wrap around break pipiness scale tube.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Compare sample to the eight scales on the break/pipiness scale. B. Record Scale number leather most resembles. C. Note if leather returns to original appearance upon removal from tube. A. Rating #3 maximum on Break/Pipiness Scale with complete recovery upon removal from tube. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-43
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 113 - PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the adhesion between PU/PVC and backing material.
Apparatus
A. Tensile Tester with speed of 12 inches per minute B. Clamps with jaws C. 100/1000 lb. load cell Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #113: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 Action Cut three samples measuring 2 x 5 . Separate, by hand, one inch of the backing material from the PU/PVC. Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the backing material in the lower jaw. Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the PU/PVC in the upper jaw. Test sample, pulling the backing and PU/PVC apart from each other and print out results. Repeat steps 2 5 two more times to get an average load mean of three samples.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record the average load mean result for the three samples. A. 3 pounds minimum. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-44
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 114 - Cold Crack Resistance of PU/PVC
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine if PVC/PU will crack under cold conditions.
Apparatus
A. Cold Box set at 23 degrees Fahrenheit and able to fit the Masland Impact Tester inside it B. Masland Impact Tester C. Stapler Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #114: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 Action Cut sample to measure 2 x 6. Double the sample over lengthwise with the finished side out. Staple the outside ends. Condition the specimen for two hours in the cold box minus 23 +/5 degrees Celsius. While working inside the cold box, place the looped (unstapled) side on the Masland Impact Tester Anvil. Raise arm of impact tester to a vertical position and allow it to fall free on the sample loop.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Evaluate using the following ratings: No Crack Cracked Cracked in two pieces. A. No Crack Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-45
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 115 - Trapezoid Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the tear breaking strength of PU/PVC and fabrics.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D.
Tensile Testing Machine on load mean setting and trap tear mode Clamps with jaw 1,000 lb. load cell Trapezoid Tear Die (see diagram attached)
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #115: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Using trapezoid die cut three samples in the warp direction and cut three samples in the fill direction of the material. Secure test specimen in machine, clamping along the non-parallel sides of the trapezoid with the cut halfway between the clamps. Hold the short edge taut and let the long edge lie in the folds. Test the sample and print out results. Repeat steps 2 3 for all samples to get an average load mean of three warp and three fill directions.
Evaluation
A. Record the average load mean of the warp and fill directions for each sample. B. Record warp and fill averages separately. A. 7 pounds minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 04/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-46
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 115 - Trapezoid Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric, Continued
Diagram 7: Trapezoid for Trapezoid Tearing Load
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-47
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the force required to continue or propagate a tear that was previously cut in the specimen. A. B. C. D. Tensile Testing Machine on load mean setting and tongue tear mode Clamps with jaws 1,000 lb. load cell Tongue Tear Die (see diagram attached)
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #116: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Using tongue die cut three samples in the warp direction and cut three samples in the fill direction of the material. Place the 3 x 8 specimen in the clamps so that the slit is centered in the jaw and the ends of the tongues are completely held in separate clamps (see attachment). Test the sample and print out results Repeat steps 2 3 for all samples to get an average load mean of three warp and three fill directions.
Evaluation
A. B.
Record the average load mean of the warp and flit directions for each sample. Record the warp and fill averages separately.
Specification
A. For handbag: 5 pounds minimum B. For small leather goods: 3 pounds minimum C. For lining: 3 pounds minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-48
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric, Continued
Diagram 8: Sample
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-49
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric, Continued
Diagram 9: Tongue Tearing Test
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-50
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 117 - Blocking of PU/PVC
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the tendency for PU/PVC to adhere to it when stored faceto-face and face-to-back, in a stack, under conditions of high heat and pressure. A. B. C. Dry Convection Oven Glass Plates 8 Pound Weight
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #117: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Cut four 1 x 2 samples. Place two samples face-to-face, and two samples face-to-back between 2 glass plates. Place the plates in the oven at 160 degrees Fahrenheit. Place an 8 pound weight on top of the plates to compress the samples Leave in oven for six hours. When samples are cool to the touch remove them from the glass plates.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the degree of blocking as follows: No Blocking: No Change Slight Blocking: PU/PVC must be peeled to separate but no change to piece goods. Blocking: PU/PVC can not be separated A. No Blocking Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-51
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of force in pounds that must be applied to PU/PVC or fabric seams in order to tear the seams. A. Tensile Testing Machine containing grip faces measuring 3 x 1. Machine should be in load mean setting. B. Sewing Machine C. Sewing Thread (BT-69 E) minimum. See copy of label below from thread spool.
Apparatus
Diagram 10: Thread Spool Label
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #118: Step 1 2 Action Cut three PU/PVC swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the warp and three swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the fill directions. Prepare three sets of seams by placing two samples from the warp direction with the front sides together, place two samples from the fill direction with front sides together, place one sample from the warp and one sample from the fill direction with front sides together. Sew seams airing the 6 side of the samples with a 5/8 seam allowance and stitch density of 8 9 stitches per inch (spi). Set the distance between the grip faces at the start of the test at 2. Center the seam line between the grip faces then close the grips. Run test for each of the three sets of seams.
3 4 5 6
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-52
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength, Continued
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the following data: 1. The load mean for each seam. Identify seams as warp to warp, fill to fill, and warp to fill. 2. The average load mean of all specimens. 3 Record if seam failure is caused by PU/PVC failure, sewing thread failure or PU/PVC slippage. A. 45 pounds for PVC and fabric B. 30 pounds for lining Initial release 10/90; Revised 04/94, 10/97 cf, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-53
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 119 - Environmental Cycling
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the effect of heat, high humidity, and cold on a finished product or any of the products components. A. B. C. Wet Environmental Oven set at 100% +/- 5% relative humidity and 135 degrees Fahrenheit Dry Convection Oven set at 160 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5 degrees Fahrenheit Cold Box set at 10 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5 degrees
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #119: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 Action Place sample in wet environmental oven for 22 hours. Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5 degrees) for 2 hours minimum Place sample in dry oven for 22 hours. Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5 degrees) for 2 hours minimum. Place sample in cold box for 22 hours. Place sample at mom temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5 degrees) for 2 hours minimum.
Evaluation
A. B.
Evaluate sample after each individual test cycle (wet oven, dry oven, cold box) and a 2 hour recovery period at room temperature. Record any corrosion, blistering, warpage and/or any other change in characteristics.
Specification
A. No Chance Initial Release: 10/98 cf Revision: N/A
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-54
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 120 - Regular Adhesion of Hardware
Purpose and Scope
A. To test the adherence of the surface finish that is applied to hardware
Apparatus
A. 3M Scotch Magic Tape 3/4 wide #810 Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #120: Step 1 2 3 Action Wipe three specimens to be tested with alcohol to insure no contaminants are on surface. Press a strip of tape onto the test surface making sure one end of the tape is not attached to sample. Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to the sample and detach it with one quick pulling motion.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Evaluate whether or not any surface finish was removed from the hardware. A. No removal of the surface finish Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-55
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 121 - Cross Hatch Adhesion of Hardware
Purpose and Scope
A. To test the adherence of the surface finish that is applied to hardware after grids have been cut into the sample. A. XActo knife with #11 pointed blade Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #121: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Wipe three specimens to be tested with alcohol to insure no contaminants are on surface. Cut parallel lines, with X-Acto knife apart on the sample surface and repeat at right angles forming grids of squares. Press a strip of tape onto the test surface making sure one end of the tape is not attached to sample. Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to the sample and detach it with one quick pulling motion.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Evaluate whether there is removal of complete grids. A. No removal of complete grids. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 14/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-56
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 122 - Pencil Hardness
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the hardness of coatings on hardware.
Apparatus
A. B. C.
Faber-Castell Technic-Set 9000 (pencil #3H) Pencil Sharpener (draftsman type which grinds the wood without sharpening the lead) Emery Paper (fine grade)
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #122: Step 1 2 3 Action Strip the wood from a 3H pencil for a distance of approximately using the pencil sharpener. Be careful not to nick the lead. Square the exposed lead using a gentle rotary motion against fine grade emery paper. Hold pencil in a writing position (at approximately a 45 degree angle) and push forward against the coating applying just enough pressure as to not break the lead. By turning the pencil after a test, a new edge is available for use and three or four trials may be made with one dressing of the lead.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate whether or not the lead penetrated the surface coating. A. No penetration of surface coating using a 3H pencil. Initial Release: 10/98 cf Revision: 0
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-57
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 123 - Accelerated Aging (High Humidity)
Purpose and Scope
A. To test hardware for its resistance to a hot and humid environment.
Apparatus
A. Wet Environmental Oven set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and 98% relative humidity. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #123: Step 1 2 Action Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is intended to be used with. Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the wet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning, blistering and/or any other change in characteristics. Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change A. B. No Change Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be interpreted as either pass, fail or waive. This depends on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise, and past field performance.
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-58
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 124 - Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven)
Purpose and Scope
A. To test hardware for its resistance to a dry environment.
Apparatus
A. Gravity Convection oven with a temperature set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #124: Step 1 2 Action Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is intended to be used with. Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the dry oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning, blistering and/or any other change in characteristics. Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change A. B. No Change Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be interpreted as either pass, fail or waive. This depends on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise and past field experience.
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-59
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 125 - Impact Resistance
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the impact resistance of an adhesive or finish.
Apparatus
A. B.
Impact platform (5/8 thick steel plate) Tape measure or other means to measure drop height of 36
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #125: Step 1 2 Action Drop sample 36 inches onto a steel platform. Repeat step 1 until the point of failure or until the sample has been dropped 10 times whichever is first.
Evaluation
A. Compare tested sample to a control. B. Record any changes to adhesion or finish. C. Record the number of drops. A. 10 drops with no change Initial Release: 10/90 Revised 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-60
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 126 - Tensile Test of Hardware
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the tensile strength of hardware.
Apparatus
A. B. C.
Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps) setting and tensile mode Clamps with jaws 1,000 lb. load cell
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #126: Step 1 2 3 Action Clamp into jaws actual piece of hardware to be tested, if possible, or loop cord or straps through hardware (such as a dog leash, omega ring, etc), and close cord or straps in upper and lower jaws. Test sample and print out results Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples.
Evaluation
A. Record the average peak load result for the three samples. A. Large dog leashes, large handle holders, large rings are 70 pounds minimum B. Small dog leashes, small handle holders, small rings are 35 pounds minimum C. Key ring/Chain is 25 pounds minimum D. Chainbelts 30 pounds minimum E. Zipper hooks 30 pounds minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-61
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 127 - Tensile Test of Rivets
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the tensile strength of rivets
Apparatus
A. B. C. D.
Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps) setting and rivet mode Clamps with jaws 1,000 lb. load cell Three sets of rivets that should be mounted at the factory, in the center of looped leather strips measuring 4 ounces thick and 6 inches long by 1 inch wide, using the correct die mold (see diagram attached).
Note: When mounting rivets, 2 to 3 millimeters of the rivet tip should be exposed through the piece goods to clinch correctly. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #127: Step 1 2 3 Action Clamp into upper and lower jaws strips containing one set of rivets. Test sample and print out results. Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Report the average peak load result for the three samples. A. 40 pounds minimum Initial Release: 04/94 Revision: 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-62
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 127 - Tensile Test of Rivets, Continued
Diagram 11: Rivet Tensile
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-63
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 128 - Tensile/Cycling Test of Snaps
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the tensile strength of snaps.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D. E.
Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps) setting and mag snap mode Clamps with jaws 100 lb. load cell Snap Cycling Machine Minimum of three sets of snaps that should be mounted at the factory, in the center of leather strips measuring 4 ounces thick and 6 inches long by 1 inch wide, using the correct die mold (see diagram attached).
Note: When mounting snaps, metal or plastic washers should be used to prevent the snaps from pulling through the mounting substrate material. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #128: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Action Clamp into upper and lower jaws on Tensile Testing Machine strips containing one set of snaps. Test sample and print out results for initial force to open. Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples. Cycle snaps on Snap Cycling Machine, set on a speed of #4, for 2,500 cycles. Repeat steps 1 3 to get an average peak load of three samples after cycling 2,500 times on the Snap Cycling Machine. Cycle snaps on Snap Cycling Machine, set on a speed of #4, for 2,500 additional cycles, making a total of 5,000 cycles. Repeat steps 1 3 to get an average peak load of three samples after cycling 5,000 times on the Snap Cycling Machine.
Procedure
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-64
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 128 - Tensile/Cycling Test of Snaps,

Continued
Evaluation
A. B. C. D. E.
Report the average peak load result for the three samples in the initial state, prior to cycling on the Snap Cycling Machine. Report the average peak load result for the three samples after cycling 2,500 cycles on the Snap Cycling Machine. Report the average peak load result for the three samples after cycling 5,000 cycles on the Snap Cycling Machine. Calculate the percent change after cycling 2,500 and 5,000 times. Formula is: Original tensile result, minus result after cycling, divided by original tensile result, multiplied by one hundred. Note any noticeable wearing of finish on snap and/or spring wires and at what point during cycling wear occurred. Small snaps (8mm) is 2.5 lbs. minimum Large snaps (15mm) is 5.0 lbs. minimum Percent Change should not exceed 10 %
Specification
A. B. C.
Release/ Revision
Initial Release: 04/94 Revision: 10/98 cf
Diagram 12: Tensile/Cycling of Snaps
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-65
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 129 - Ferrous Presence
Purpose and Scope
A. To identify if metal used in hardware has ferrous presence.
Apparatus
A. Magnet Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #129: Step 1 2 Action Apply magnet to surface of hardware. If magnetic attraction occurs hardware contains ferrous (iron, cobalt, nickel) presence. Significant attraction between the tested surface and the magnet indicates the hardware is predominantly iron in content. A lower level of attraction indicates presence of iron at a lower concentration, or cobalt and/or nickel presence. No attraction means no iron, cobalt, or nickel is present.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record whether or not the hardware has ferrous presence. A. N/A Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-66
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 130 - Operability/Cycling Test of Zippers
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the operability (function) of a zipper after cycling.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D. E.
Tensile Testing Machine on load mean setting and zip force to open (fto) mode Clamps with jaws 100 lb. load cell Zipper Cycling Machine Minimum of three zipper tapes measuring 10 inches
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #130: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Mark zip tape top ends and area where side load is to be applied. This indicates where clamps will be positioned. Clamp zipper tape into lower jaw and puller into upper jaw on Tensile Testing Machine (see diagram 1 attached). Test sample and print out results for initial force to open. Repeat steps 1 3 two more times to get an average load mean of three samples. Mount zip tape on Zipper Cycling Machine according to the following steps (see diagram 2 attached): 1. Insert zip puller into holder on machine and tighten thumb screw. 2. Apply lower clamps to zipper top ends. 3. Insert zip tail end through clamp so that tape is taught. 4. Apply side load clamps. With zipper in a closed position set the tension according to the size of the zipper as follows: #3 Zippers side load should be 1.0 kilograms #3 Zippers vertical load should be .7 kilograms #5 Zippers side load should be 1.6 kilograms #5 Zippers vertical load should be 1.4 kilograms
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-67
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 130 - Operability/Cycling Test of Zippers, Continued
Step 7 8 9 10
Action Set Zipper Cycling Machine for 500 cycles and start machine. After 500 cycles on the Zipper Cycling Machine clamp zipper tape into upper and lower jaws on Tensile Testing Machine. Test sample and print out results for force to open after cycling 500 times. Repeat steps 3 9 two more times to get an average load mean of three samples
Evaluation
A B. C. D
Report the average load mean of the three samples in the initial state prior to cycling 500 times on the Zipper Cycling Machine. Report the average load mean of the three samples after cycling 500 times on the Zipper Cycling Machine. Calculate the percent change. Formula is: Original tensile (force to open) result, minus result after cycling, divided by original tensile (force to open) result, multiplied by one hundred. Note any noticeable wearing of the finish, breaking of teeth, coils, etc, that occurred and at what point during cycling the degradation took place.
Specification
A. Zipper must be fully operational after 500 cycles. Operating force can not be excessive in initial tensile test. No substantial change should occur in force to open after cycling.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-68
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 130 - Operability/Cycling Test of Zippers, Continued
Diagram 13: Zipper Diagrams
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-69
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 131 - Torque Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure torque strength of zipper pulls and key chains.
Apparatus
A. Digital Force Torque Gauge that measures in inch pounds B. Vise Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #131: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Secure zipper slide in vise (see diagram). Apply torque gauge clamp to zip pull (see diagram). Turn torque gauge counter clockwise until break occurs (see diagram). Repeat steps 1 3 two more times to get an average break of three samples.
Procedure
Diagram 14: Torque Test
Evaluation
A. Report the average of three samples in inch pounds.

Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-70
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 131 - Torque Test, Continued
Specification
A. B. C.
#3 Zip Pullers is 3 in. lbs. minimum #5 Zip Pullers is 5 in. lbs. minimum Key Chains is 3 in. lbs. minimum
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-71
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 132 - Tensile Test of Crosswise Zipper Tape
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure tensile strength of the closed zipper in a crosswise position, both single and doubled. Doubled thickness represents the corner area of HB/SLG. A. B. C. D. Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps) setting and zipper mode Clamps with jaws 1,000 lb. load cell Stapler
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #132: Step 1 2 3 4 Action A. Single (See Diagram) Cut three samples of zipper tape with engaged coil/teeth a minimum of four inches long. Clamp each long side of zipper tape into upper and lower jaws. Test sample and print out tensile strength results. Repeat steps 2 3 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples singly.
Diagram 15: Single Crosswise Pull
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-72
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 132 - Tensile Test of Crosswise Zipper Tape, Continued
Step 1 2 3 4 5 6
Action B. Double (See Diagram) Cut three samples of zip tape with engaged coil/teeth a minimum of eight inches long. Double the samples over lengthwise with the right sides out. Staple the zip tape on each side of the coil to secure the sample. Clamp each long side of zip tape into upper and lower jaws. Test sample and print out tensile strength results. Repeat steps 4 5 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples doubled.
Diagram 16: Double Crosswise Pull
Evaluation
A. B.
Report the average peak load result for three single samples and for three doubled samples. Note where break occurred (teeth, tape, coil) and what type of break it was (rip or detached teeth).
Specification
A. 200 pounds minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-73
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 133 - Tensile Test of Zipper Puller at 45/90 Degree Angles
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the strength of zip pulls at 45 and 90 degree angles.
Apparatus
A. B. C. D.
Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps) setting and zipper mode Clamps with jaws 1,000 lb. load cell 45 and 90 degree fixtures
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #133: Step 1 2 3 1 2 3 Action A. 45 Degree Angle Center and mount 45 degree fixture in lower and upper jaws on Tensile Testing Machine. Test sample and print out results for tensile test. Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples on a 45 degree angle. B. 90 Degree Angle Center and mount 90 degree fixture in lower and upper jaws on Tensile Testing Machine. Test sample and print out results for tensile test. Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak load of three samples on a 90 degree angle.
Evaluation
A. Report the average peak load results for three samples on 45 and 90 degree angles. A. 30 pounds minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-74
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 134 - Sulfur Dip Test/Silver Plating
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the effect of sulfur containing atmospheres or substances on silver plated materials. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. Two beakers Distilled water 10% of ammonium sulfide (NH4)2 S solution yellow Tongs Apron Gloves Glasses Mask Exhaust system
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #134: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Put ammonium sulfide and water solution into beaker. Put distilled water into another beaker. Using tongs place silver plated sample into ammonium sulfide and water solution for ten seconds. Remove sample from solution using tongs and immediately place into distilled water. After thoroughly rinsing in distilled water, inspect for any discoloration.
Evaluation
A. Compare sample to a control sample. Rate any discoloration as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-75
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 134 - Sulfur Dip Test/Silver Plating,

Continued
Specification
A. No Change-pass B. Slight Change- is considered a borderline situation and can be interpreted as either a pass, fail or waive. This depends on the location of the failure, nature of the merchandise and past field performance, considering the fact that this is a severe test Initial Release: 02/97 cf Revision: 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-76
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 135 - Accelerated Tarnish Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the tendency for silver plated items to tarnish, when subjected to an oxidizing environment. A. Desiccator with fan apparatus and power supply installed. We used Scienceware Space saver # F42010-0000 equipped with a cooling fan and 12V adapter. B. Freshly prepared tarnishing solution per 100 ml volume: 1-2.6 ml 50% NaOH 2-2.4 g Na2s.9H20 3-97 ml Distilled H20 100 ml Tarnish Solution Note: For disposal of the solution after testing use 60 ml 5% NaOCl (household bleach) per 100 ml tarnish solution. Mix slowly and stir the added bleach for 1 hour then dilute substantially with water. The bleach oxidizes the excess Na2S into something harmless for disposal. C. Water Bath, Thomas Scientific Model 9826-L73, maintained at 40-45 degrees Centigrade. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #135: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 Action Tarnish solution is placed into the bottom of the desiccator and the plastic disk is placed above the solution. An even layer of samples are then distributed onto the plastic disk, which acts as a sample holder. The desiccator is then closed and placed into the water bath maintained at 40-45 degrees Centigrade. The power supply is then connected and the test begins. Samples are exposed to the tarnish vapor for 3 to 4 hours and then removed with tongs. Rinse samples thoroughly with water to remove any excess vapor and dry them. Evaluate samples by comparing to controls
Apparatus
Procedure
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-77
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 135 - Accelerated Tarnish Test,

Continued
Evaluation
A. B.
Report sample description, including any color change or deviation from the control. Report any changes in the surface smoothness, such as pitting, cracking or chipping.
Specification
A. No Change. Initial Release: 10/98 cf Revision: N/A
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-78
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 136 - Specific Gravity
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine specific gravity to identify various classes of common plastics. A B. Calipers Scale
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #136: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Calculate volume (inches cubed): length x width x height. Weigh sample and record in grams. Convert into pounds per feet cubed using the following conversion: grams/inches cubed x (l lb./454 g) x (1728 inches cubed/per ft. cubed) OR multiply grams/inches cubed by 3.806. Divide quantity in part C above by 62.4 (specific gravity of water) to get specific gravity value of sample
Evaluation
A. Compare value to table below to determine class of plastic. Cost and Performance Classes of Plastics
Specific Gravity Representative Properties Flexural Strength Notched Load 10 p.s.i. Impact Strength ft.-lb./in. Deflection Temperature (264 p.s.i.) ep.
Thermocasts Alkyd polyester Epoxy, general purpose Phenolic, general purpose Urea formaldehyde, black 1.2 1.25 1.5 1.5 12 16 10 10 0.3 0.6 0.3 0.3 80 350 370 270 Continued on next page
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-79
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 136 - Specific Gravity, Continued
Evaluation (continued)
Cost and Performance Classes of Plastics

Specific Gravity Thermoplastics Commodity Low-density polyethylene Polypropylene homopolymer Crystal polystyrene Rigid polyvinyl chloride, pipe grade Intermediate Polymethyl methacrylate Acrylonitrite-butadenestyrene, high heat Cellulose-acetate-butyrate Thermoplastic olefin elastomer Engineering Acetal copolymer Nylon-6/6, 30% glass fiber Polycarbonate Polybutelene terephthalate, 30% glass filled High-performance Polyphenylene sulfide, 40% glass filled Liquid-crystal polymer, 30% glass filled Polytetraflourcethylene Polyetheretherketone Polyethereutione 1.64 1.61 2.17 1.31 1.42 35 37 1.7 16 18 1.6 2.8 3 1.6 1.4 300 450 100 320 395 Continued on next page 1.41 1.3 1.2 1.54 13 30 13.5 28 1.4 3 5 1.7 230 480 270 405 1.18 1.07 1.18 0.93 14 11 4 5 0.4 4 3 No break 180 230 150 N/A 0.92 0.90 1.05 1.3 1.6 7 12 13 No break 0.8 0.4 1.0 <100 130 180 155 Representative Properties Flexural Strength Notched Load 10 p.s.i. Impact Strength ft.-lb./in. Deflection Temperature (264 p.s.i.) ep.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-80
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 136 - Specific Gravity, Continued
Specification
N/A Initial Release: 11/98 cf Revision: N/A
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-81
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 137 - Nitric Acid Test/Lacquer Coating on Brass and Nickel Plated Hardware
Purpose and Scope
A. A spot test used to determine the presence of a lacquer coating on brass and nickel plated hardware. A. B. 50% by volume nitric acid Eye dropper
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #137: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Place one drop of 50% nitric acid solution on the sample. Allow the drop of solution to remain on the sample for 10 minutes. Remove the drop with a paper towel. Visually inspect the area of contact.
Evaluation
A. Visually compare the area of contact to the remainder of the surface finish. Note any change in the visual appearance. This indicates the absence of a lacquer finish. A. No Change - which indicates presence of a lacquer finish. Initial Release: 11/98 cf Revision: N/A
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-82
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 138 - Colorfastness to Washing of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the colorfastness to laundering of fabrics that are expected to withstand frequent laundering. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. Automatic Washing Machine Automatic Tumble Dryer Multifiber Test Fabric #10 AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale 1993 AATCC Standard Detergent WOB or Tide Laundry Detergent (without optical brighteners) Dummy Load of 36 x 36 hemmed pieces of bleached cotton or polyester/cotton sheeting Scale with at least 10 lb. capacity Line dry and drip dry facilities
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #138: Step 1 2 3 4 Action A. Washing: Use a specified water volume, selected water temperature for the washing cycle, and a rinse temperature of less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Add 66 grams of 1993 AATCC Standard Detergent WOB or Tide Detergent. Add the test specimen with multifiber affixed to it and enough dummy pieces to make an 8.00 +/- 0.25 lb. load. Remove specimen immediately after the final spin cycle, and dry by procedure 1, 2, 3, or 4 below.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-83
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 138 - Colorfastness to Washing of Fabrics, Continued
Step 1 2 3
Action B. Drying: Tumble Drying. Place the washed load (test specimen and dummy pieces) in the tumble dryer. Operate the dryer until the total load is dry. Line Dry. Hang the specimen on an appropriate hanger, straightening and smoothing facings, seams, etc. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet specimen by with the fabric length in the vertical direction or on an appropriate hanger. Straighten and smooth facings, seams, etc. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. Screen Dry. Spread specimen on a horizontal screen or perforated surface, removing wrinkles but not distorting or stretching it. Allow specimen to remain in still air at room temperature until dry. Repeat the selected washing and drying cycle four additional times for a total of five launderings.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate any color change of the test specimen using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. B. Evaluate any staining on each of the fibers on the multifiber test swatch by using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No Change #4.0 Slight Change #3.0 Moderate Change #2.0 Severe Change #1.0 Complete Change
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-84
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 138 - Colorfastness to Washing of Fabrics, Continued
Specification
A. 3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-85
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 139 - Colorfastness to Perspiration of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. B.
To evaluate the colorfastness of dyed textiles to perspiration. Reference: AATCC Test Method 15-1997 Colorfastness To Perspiration. AATCC Perspiration Tester (with 21 Plates, Pressure Plate and 8 lb. Weight) Gravity Convection Oven set at 100 +/- 2 degrees Fahrenheit Multifiber Test Fabric #10 AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Paper Towels Acid Solution: 1 liter distilled water 10 g. sodium chloride 1g lactic acid, USP 85% 1g disodium hydrogen phosphate, anhydrous 0.25 g histidine monohydrochioride
Apparatus
A. B. C. D. E. G.
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #139: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Immerse the test specimen and multifiber swatch in the solution for 30 minutes with occasional agitation and squeezing to ensure complete wetting. Once the specimen and multifiber swatch are thoroughly wet out, remove from solution and blot with paper towel so that the specimen weighs 2.25 times its original dry weight. Put the face side of the specimen in contact with the multifiber swatch and place between two slides in the Perspiration Tester. Put all 21 plates into the unit regardless of the number of specimens being tested.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-86
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 139 - Colorfastness to Perspiration of Fabrics, Continued
Step 5 6
Action Place the 2 lb. pressure plate with springs on specimens and compress the unit by putting the 8 lb. weight on top making a total of 10 lbs. Lock the pressure plate in position by turning the thumb screws. Remove the 8 lb. weight and place the Perspiration Tester in the oven sideways so that the stripes of the multifiber are in a vertical position Loaded Perspiration Tester should remain in oven for 6 hours. If not completely dry at the end of 6 hours, the specimens should be removed from the test unit and air dried at room temperature.
Evaluation
Evaluate any color change of the test specimen using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale, B. Evaluate any staining on each of the fibers on the multifiber test swatch by using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No Change #4.0 Slight Change #3.0 Moderate Change #2.0 Severe Change #1.0 Complete Change
Specification
A. 3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision 04/94, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-87
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 140 - Colorfastness to Water of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. B.
To evaluate the colorfastness of dyed textiles to water. Reference: AATCC Test Method 107-1997 Colorfastness To Water.
Apparatus
A. AATCC Perspiration Tester (with 21 Plates, Pressure Plate and 8 Lb. Weight) B. Gravity Convection Oven set at 100+/-2 degrees Fahrenheit C. Multifiber Test Fabric #10 D. AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale E. Paper Towels F. Distilled Water Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #140: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 Action Immerse the test specimen and multifiber swatch in the distilled water for 15 minutes with occasional agitation and squeezing to ensure complete wetting. Once the specimen and multifiber swatch are thoroughly wet out, remove from distilled water and blot with a paper towel so that the specimen weighs 2.5 3 times its original dry weight. Put the face side of the specimen in contact with the multifiber swatch and place between two slides in the Perspiration Tester. Put all 21 plates into the unit regardless of the number of specimens being tested. Place the 2 lb. pressure plate with springs on specimens and compress the unit by putting the 8 lb. weight on top making a total of 10 lbs. Lock the pressure plate in position by turning the thumb screws. Remove the 8 lb. weight and place the Perspiration Tester in the oven sideways so that the stripes of the multifiber are in a vertical position. Loaded Perspiration Tester should remain in oven for18 hours. If not completely dry at the end 18 hours, the specimens should be removed from the test unit and air dried at room temperature.
Procedure
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-88
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 140 - Colorfastness to Water of Fabrics, Continued
Evaluation
A. Evaluate any color change of the test specimen using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. B. Evaluate any staining on each of the fibers on the multifiber test swatch by using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No Change #4.0 Slight Change #3.0 Moderate Change #2.0 Severe Change #1.0 Complete Change
Specification
A. 3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-89
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 141 - Flammability of Clothing/Apparel Textiles
Purpose and Scope
A To evaluate the flammability of textiles intended to be used as wearing apparel. The following are exempt: hats, gloves, footwear, plain surface fabrics regardless of fiber content, weighing 2.6 ounces per square yard or more, all fabrics both plain surface and raised fiber surface, regardless of weight made entirely from any of the following fibers or any combination thereof: acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester or wool. B. Reference: 1. 16 CFR Part 1610 The Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles 2. ASTM 1230 Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles (9.2 Refurbishing only). 3. AATCC-l24 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated Home Launderings. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. J. K. L. M. N. O. Flammability Tester Flame Measuring Device Die Cutter Measuring 2 1/8 X 6 Brushing Device Dry Oven Desiccator Drierite Desiccator Crystals with Blue Indicator Butane Fuel Supply #4 Cylinder 2 lbs. #50 100% Mercerized White Cotton Sewing Thread Stainless Steel Mounting Frames Racks to hold frames Double Faced tape Red Gauge Oil Specific Gravity 0.827 Soap Neutral Chip (Ivory Snow) Metal Calibration Plate (Calibrates placement of needle onto sample)
Apparatus
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-90
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 141 - Flammability of Clothing/Apparel Textiles, Continued
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #141: Step 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 2 3 4 5 Action Calibrating Flame Impingement Location Place metal calibration plate so that it is at a 45 degree angle inside the Flammability cabinet. Move metal plate to the right. Press Dwell Man button. Turn machine ON, and then press Start, the copper arm will move to the right. Make sure that the needle is aligned with the screw and 1/1,000 of an inch away from it. Press Manual Impingement to move copper arm and flame to the left, which will end flame impingement calibration location. Calibrating Flame Impingement Time Place weight into the hole. Set timer to zero. Set Auto Impinge to 1 second. Turn machine ON and Start Check timer for 1 .0 +/- 0.05 seconds. Note: Allow at least two minutes for electronic device to discharge frilly before recalibrating the timer to ensure an accurate reading. Adjusting Fuel Supply Open fuel supply and regulator valves completely. Allow 5 minutes for the air to be drawn from the fuel line and ignite the gas. Using flame measuring device, adjust the flame length to 5/8.
1 2
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-91
November 5, 2003
Step 1
Action Conducting the Test Preparing Preliminary Samples for Plain Surface Fabrics: a. Cut 2 samples (6 1/2 x 2 1/8) one with the long side in the warp direction and one with the long side in the fill direction. Identify and mark the directions on one short end of each sample. 1 Mount samples onto the frames, so that the point of impingement will be on the face side of the sample and affix with doubled sided tape. The samples should be smooth. Mount samples so that the fabric edge is 1/4 longer than the bottom edge of the specimen holder base plate and the identified edge is not visible 2. Place samples mounted in the frames into the holding racks so that they are in a horizontal position. Preliminary Samples for Raised Surface Fabrics: a. For fabrics having a raised surface with varying depths of pile, preliminary should be done to determine the area that has the fastest rate of burn and this is the location where the test specimens are taken from. Test at least one sample from each area and follow the steps in section VI part F. Conditioning: a. Put loaded racks into the dry oven for 30 minutes at 105 degrees Celsius (221 F). No more than 40 specimens at a time. b. Remove racks from the oven and place in the desiccator containing the Drierite. Time in the desiccator for 1 or 2 specimens is at least 15 minutes. Three or more specimens may stay in the desiccator for at least 55 minutes, but time is not to exceed 3 hours.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-92
November 5, 2003
Step 4
Action Testing Preliminary Samples for Plain Surface Fabrics: a. Remove test specimens from desiccator and mount 1 at a time in chamber. Note: specimens should be tested within 45 seconds of removal from the desiccator. b. Lace thread through the notches on the raised portion of the upper mounting frame. c. Close chamber door and set timer to zero. d. Press start to begin test. Timer is automatically deactivated when the thread is burned through and the 33 gram weight is released. e. Turn on hood fan to remove smoke. f. Record the burn time. Actual Testing (Original State and After Laundering of Plain Surface Fabrics): a. Cut five additional samples in the direction that burned the fastest during the preliminary test and repeat all steps for conditioning and testing (see steps 3 and 4). Note: All fabrics/garments are to be tested in the Original/As Received state and after I commercial dry-clean and 1 machine wash 120 degrees, tumble dry normal state, unless either laundering method would destroy the fabric/garment. b. Record burn times, burn types and classifications described below in sections VII and VIII for plain surface fabrics
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-93
November 5, 2003
Step 6
Action Actual Testing (Raised Surface Fabrics): a. Determine the lay of the nap and cut five samples (6 1/2 x 2 1/8) with the lay of the pile in the long direction. 1. Mount specimens so that the direction of the nap is going away from the closed end of the horseshoe shaped holder and so the face of the fabric will be in contact with the flame. Approximately 1/4 of fabric should extend beyond the bottom edge of the specimen holder base plate. 2. Clamp specimen holder into brushing device and lower the brush arm. Hold the lower edge of the specimen and pull the carriage toward the front. This single brush stroke will raise the nap to its up most position. 3. Place specimen holders into rack so that they are in a horizontal position. 4. Follow the steps above for conditioning and testing (steps 3 and 4). Note: All fabrics/garments are to be tested in the Original/As Received and after 1 commercial dry clean and 1 machine wash 140 degrees, tumble dry normal, unless either laundering method would destroy the fabric/garment. 5. Record the burn types and classifications described below in the CPSC sections for Raised Surface Fabrics.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-94
November 5, 2003
Step 7
Action Test Criteria: a. Average burn times are calculated after testing the first 5 specimens. Five more specimens are tested with plain surface fabrics when the average of all burn times is less than 3.5 seconds for the first five specimens. An average requires at least 2 burns, if none of the first five specimens burn, do not test an additional five. b. Five more specimens are tested with raised surface fabrics only when the average of all burn times is less than 4.0 seconds. If none of the first five specimens burn, do not test an additional five specimens. c. When 5 More specimens are NOT needed: 1. All five of the first 5 samples have only surface flashes and there is no burning of the base fabric. 2. All five specimens have burn times well over 4.0 seconds. 3. All five specimens do not ignite. This fabric is considered Class I. 4. At least three specimens have base burns under 4.0 seconds. This fabric is considered a Class III. Note: See attached CPSC Flow Charts for further explanation of when additional tests are necessary for plain and raised surface fabrics
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Page: 16-95
November 5, 2003
CPSC Codes for Description of Burn Types
CPSC Codes for Description of Burn Types:
Code IBE *IBE DNI 0.0 Seconds
SF uc SF pw SF po 0.0 Seconds
0.0 SF only 0.0 SFBB *0.0 SFBB poi
Description Plain Surfaces Ignited but extinguished Ignited, but extinguished, the asterisk (*) denotes a burn that goes under the cord without breaking the cord. Did Not Ignite Actual time of burn from ignition until the flame severs the cord directly above the specimen, thereby releasing the weight that in turn stops the watch that gives the numerical time in 0.0 Seconds. Raised Fiber Surfaces Surface Flash, under the cord, but does not break the cord. Surface Flash, part way. No time shown because the surface flash did not reach the cord. Surface Flash, at point of impingement only (equivalent to did not ignite for plain surfaces). Actual time of burn from ignition until the flame severs the cord directly above the specimen, thereby releasing the weight that in turn stops the watch that gives a numerical time in 0.0 Seconds. Time in seconds, surface flash only. No damage to the base fabric. Time in seconds, surface flash base burn. Base starts burning at points other than the point of impingement. Time in seconds, surface flash base burn possibly starting at the point of impingement. The asterisk is accompanied by the following: Unable to make an absolute determination as to the source of base burns. This notice is added to the result of any specimen if there is a question as to the origin of the base burning. It does not qualify a base burn under the current interpretation of CFR 1610
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-96
November 5, 2003
CPSC Classifications
CPSC Classifications based on Average Flame Spread and Burn Types: Classification Class 1 Description Plain Surface Textiles Normal Flammability are: a. Those samples whose averaged burn time is 3.5 seconds or greater. b. Samples that ignited but extinguished. c. Samples that did not ignite Not Applicable. Rapid and Intense Burning are those fabrics whose average burn time of l0 specimens is less than 3.5 seconds. Raised Fiber Surface Textiles Normal Flammability are those fabrics whose: a. Average burn time is 0-7.0 seconds with less than two specimens out of the ten having a base burn. b. Average burn time of 5 or 10 specimens is greater than 7.0 seconds disregarding the number of base burns. c. Specimens have no base burns disregarding the average burn time of 5 specimens. A Class designated for raised fiber surface textiles only. It includes those fabrics whose average burn time based on 5 or 10 specimens is 4.0 seconds to 7.0 seconds with two or more base burns. Rapid and Intense Burning is a sample whose average burn time of 10 specimens is less than 4.0 seconds with two or more base burns.
Class 2 Class 3
Class 1
Class 2
Class 3
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-97
November 5, 2003
Specialty Samples
A. Burnout designs of rayon on nylon or polyester are considered plain surface fabrics. The specimens are cut so that the flame impinges on the rayon design. B. Woven Flocked Fabrics are treated as a raised surface fabric. C. Flocked Printed surfaces are considered plain surface fabrics. D. Metallic thread fabrics are considered plain surface fabrics. Samples are cut so that the metallic thread is parallel to the 6 direction and the point of impingement will be on the metallic thread. E. Sweatshirts with an exposed raised surface fiber inside that are capable of being worn with the napped side out are tested on the napped side out as a raised surface fabric. F. Embroidery on a Netted Material: Preliminary test the netting portion only (without embroidery) in the horizontal, vertical and/or diagonal directions. Also preliminary test the embroidered section in the horizontal, vertical /and or diagonal directions, Test as a plain surface fabric in the most flammable direction. A. Report fabric description, including color, fiber content, Momme/fabric weight and fabric surface, raised or plain. B. Report dry cleaning and washing procedures. C. Report the times and the burn type of the specimens for the preliminary testing (if applicable) and the direction (length or width if possible) that the test was performed in. D. Report burn types for each individual specimen. E. Report separately the average time of the flame spread for the set of specimens tested in the original state and after dry-cleaning/washing and base the classification on the lower average time of flame spread of the test sets. F. Attach a swatch of the fabric to the report data sheet. G. Report any deviations from the Liz Claiborne test method.
Evaluation
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-98
November 5, 2003
Specification
A. Plain Surface Fibers: Class I/3.5 seconds or more. B. Raised Surface Fibers: Class I/7.0 seconds or more, or a burn with a surface flash, provided the intensity of the flame is insufficient to ignite or fuse the base fabric. Initial Release: 11/98 cf Revision: N/A
Release/ Revision
Diagram 17: CPSC Plain Surface Fabrics
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-99
November 5, 2003
Diagram 18: CPSC Raised Fiber Surface Fabrics
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-100
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 142 - Dimensional Stability After Laundering of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the dimensional changes after washing of textiles that are expected to withstand frequent laundering. B. Reference: AATCC Test Method 135-1995 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Woven and Knitted Fabrics. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. Automatic Washing Machine Automatic Tumble Dryer 1993 AATCC Standard Detergent or Tide Dummy Load of 36 x 36 hemmed pieces of bleached cotton or polyester/cotton sheeting Scale with at least 10 lb. capacity Indelible ink marking pen for use with suitable rule, tape, marking template or other marking device Measuring devices Line dry and drip dry facilities
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #142: Step 1 Action Mark specimen with three 10 inch bench marks parallel to the length of the fabric and three 10 inch bench marks parallel to the width of the fabric. Each bench mark must be at least 2 inches from the edges of the test specimen. Bench marks in the same direction must be approximately 5 inches apart. Any deviation should be indicated in the report. Marks of 18 inches or more provide better precision. Measure and record the distance between the bench marks to the nearest tenth of an inch.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-101
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 142 - Dimensional Stability After Laundering of Fabrics, Continued
Step 3
Action Washing: 1. Use a specified water volume, selected water temperature for the washing cycle, and a rinse temperature of less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. 2. Add 66 grams of 1993 AATCC Standard Detergent or Tide Detergent. 3. Add the test specimen and enough dummy pieces to make an 8.00 +/- 0.25 lb. load. 4. Remove specimen immediately after the final spin cycle, and dry by procedure 1, 2, 3, or 4 below. Drying: 1. Tumble Drying. Place the washed load (test specimen and dummy pieces) in the tumble dryer. Operate the dryer until the total load is dry. 2. Line Dry. Hang the specimen on an appropriate hanger, straightening and smoothing facings, seams, etc. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. 3. Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet specimen with the fabric length in the vertical direction or on an appropriate hanger. Straighten and smooth facings, seams, etc. Allow specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. 4. Screen Dry. Spread specimen on a horizontal screen or perforated surface, removing wrinkles but not distorting or stretching it. Allow the specimen to remain in still air at room temperature until dry. 5. Lay specimen without tension on a flat smooth, horizontal surface. Measure the distance between the bench marks to the nearest tenth of an inch. 6. If the percent of dimensional change is less than 7 percent repeat the selected washing and drying cycle four additional times, for a total of five launderings. If the percent of dimensional change is greater than 7 percent discontinue the additional launderings.
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-102
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 142 - Dimensional Stability After Laundering of Fabrics, Continued
Evaluation
A. Calculate the percent of dimensional change using the following formula: Original measurement, minus measurement after laundering, divided by original measurement, multiplied by one hundred A. Dimensional Change of 7% maximum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-103
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 143 - Waistband Stretch of Tights
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of stretch in the waistband of tights.
Apparatus
A. Waistband Stretch Machine. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #143: Step 1 2 Action Pull waistband of tights over the extended arms on the machine Pull lever on machine to allow eight pound weight to drop. This will extend the arms.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record inch mark indicated by arrow on machine. A. Vendor should submit size specs prior to testing as these specs vary from style to style. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-104
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 144 - Leg Rope Pull of Tights
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of stretch in the leg of tights.
Apparatus
A. Rope Pull Machine B. Measuring Tape which is mounted next to Rope Pull Machine Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #144: Step 1 2 Action Clamp toe area of one of the legs of the tights into the Rope Pull Machine. Pull the waist of the tights away from the machine until the light activates, this indicates maximum stretch.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record inch mark at the bottom of the run guard (panty line). If there is no run guard, record the inch mark at the crotch. A. 70 inches for size medium tights. B. Add 5 inches for each size larger than medium. C. Subtract 5 inches for each size smaller than medium. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-105
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 145 - Resistance to Hairspray of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of color transferred from dyed materials onto other surfaces when sprayed with hairspray. A. B. C. D. Hairspray atomized (spray aerosol) Crockmeter Squares measuring 2 inches AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Paper Towels
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #145: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Cut specimen into a 2 x 2 sample. Place specimen with the face side in contact with a crockmeter. Square and lay on a paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Moderately spray specimen with hairspray. Allow to air dry.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the amount of color transferred from the specimen to the crockmeter square using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No Change #4.0 Slight Change #3.0 Moderate Change #2.0 Severe Change #1.0 Complete Change A. 3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revised: 6/97, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-106
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 146 - Resistance to Perfume of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the amount of color transferred from dyed materials onto other surfaces when sprayed with Liz Claiborne cologne or perfume. Note: Perfume contains approximately 20% oil and cologne contains approximately 18% oil. The oil content difference in perfume vs. cologne is not significant. Therefore, we can use either one for our testing purposes. A. B. C. D. Liz Claiborne Cologne or Perfume (spray aerosol) Crockmeter Squares measuring 2 inches AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale Paper Towels
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #146: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Cut specimen into a 2 X 2 sample. Place specimen with the face side in contact with a crockmeter square and lay on a paper towel to absorb excess moisture. Moderately spray specimen with cologne or perfume. Allow to air dry.
Evaluation
A. Evaluate the amount of color transferred from the specimen to the crockmeter square using the AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5.0 No Change #4.0 Slight Change #3.0 Moderate Change #2.0 Severe Change #1.0 Complete Change
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-107
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 146 - Resistance to Perfume of Fabrics, Continued
Specification
A. 3.0 minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revised: 6/97, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-108
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 147 - Fabric/Momme Weight
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the weight of fabrics.
Apparatus
A. Sample cutter B. Round Die Cutter measuring 2.75 inches in diameter C. Scale Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #147: Step 1 2 Action Cut eight samples of specimen. Weigh all eight specimens together on scale.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. To Record ounces per square yard. Use the following formula: Ounces per square yard = test weight divided by 0.035343 (see attachment for calculation on how this number was obtained). Note: If necessary, ounces per square yard can be converted to grams per square meter by multiplying ounces per square yard by 33.9. Grams per square meter can be converted to ounces per square yard by dividing grams per square meter by 33.9. B. To Record momme weight use the following formula: Momme Weight Ounces per square yard times 7.867 (see attachments for more information on momme weight and silk conversion tables). A. N/A Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-109
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 147 - Fabric/Momme Weight, Continued
Calculation to Obtain 0.035343
Calculation used to obtain the 0.035343 in the ounces per square yard calculation is as follows (for 8 circles): 2.7 (diameter) = (2.7)/4 = 5.72566 sq/in. 8 2.7 diameter circles = 8(5.72566) = 45.804528 1 sq/yd = (36) = 1,296 sq/in 8 circles = 45.804528/1,296 = 0.035343 sq/yd oz/sq/yd = test weight/0.035343 The following is the silk conversion table: MM 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 MM Oz/Sq/Yd 18 2.381 19 2.513 20 2.646 21 2.778 22 2.910 23 3.042 24 3.175 25 3.307 26 3.439 27 3.572 28 3.704 29 3.836 30 3.968 32 4.232 35 4.629 mm ] oz/sq/yd mm x 3.75/28.3495 = oz/sq/yd oz/sq/yd ] mm oz/sq/yd x 28.3495/3.75 = mm oz/sq/yd x w of fabric/36 = oz/Lyd
Silk Conversion Table
Oz/Sq/Yd .661 .794 .926 1.058 1.190 1.322 1.455 1.587 1.719 1.851 1.984 2.116 2.248
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-110
November 5, 2003
Momme System
The Japanese silk industry usually indicates the weight of silk fabrics by momme weight rather than by the other methods previously indicated (e.g., ounces per yards). The momme weight (or grade) of a silk fabric is equal to the number of pounds per 100 yards of the material at a 45 inch width. Thus a 45 inch fabric with a weight of 2 ounces per linear yard would be referred to as a 12 momme fabric (2 oz./16 oz. x 100 yds.). The momme weights are usually indicated to the closest momme. What is the momme weight of a silk fabric that is 60 inches wide and weighs 1.7 ounces per linear yard? Step Action 1 1.7 oz./16 oz. = .106 lbs. 2 .106 lbs. X 100 yds. = 10.6 lbs./100 yds. 3 10.6 x 45 in./60 in. = 8.0 Thus the fabric is an 8 momme. What are the ounces per square yard of a 3 momme silk fabric that measures 40 inches wide? Step Action 1 3 momme x 16 oz. = 48 oz./100 yards 45 inches wide 2 48 oz./100 yds. = .48 oz./yd. 45 inches wide 3 .48 x 40 in./45 in. = .427 oz./sq. yd. Thus the fabric equivalent is 0.4 ounces per square yard.
Example 1)
Example 2)
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-111
November 5, 2003
Table of Weight Conversion for Japanese Silk Fabrics
The following table provides the weight conversion for Japanese Silk Fabrics:
Momme Weight 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 7 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
Width 24 Lb./50 yd. 0.69-0.75 0.76-0.85 0.88-0.98 1.01-1.12 1.14-1.25 1.27-1.38 1.40-1.51 1.54-1.67 1.79-1.94 2.03-2.22 2.50-2.77 3.04-3.30 3.57-3.83 4.07-4.39 4.50-4.92 5.12-5.45 5.65-5.98 6.18-6.46
27 inches Lb./50 yd. 0.75-0.85 0.86-0.98 0.99-1.10 1.14-1.26 1.29-1.40 1.44-1.55 1.59-1.70 1.74-1.88 2.01-2.19 2.28-2.50 2.85-3.12 3.42-3.71 4.02-4.31 4.57-4.94 5.17-5.54 5.76-6.13 6.36-6.73 6.95-7.32
29 inches Lb./50 yd. 0.83-0.91 0.92-1.03 1.06-1.19 1.22-1.36 1.38-1.51 1.54-1.67 1.70-1.84 1.86-2.02 2.16-2.36 2.45-2.69 3.06-3.35 3.67-3.99 4.31-4.63 4.91-5.31 5.58-5.95 6.19-6.59 6.83-7.22 7.46-7.87
30 inches Lb./50 yd. 0.87-0.94 0.95-1.07 1.10-1.23 1.26-1.40 1.43-1.56 1.60-1.74 1.76-1.89 1.93-2.09 2.23-2.43 2.54-2.78 3.17-3.46 3.80-4.12 4.46-4.79 5.08-5.49 5.74-6.15 6.40-6.81 7.07-7.47 7.73-8.13
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-112
November 5, 2003
Table of Weight Conversion for Japanese Silk Fabrics (continued)
Momme Weight 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 7 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24
36 inches Lb./50 yd. 1.04-1.13 1.14-1.28 1.32-1.48 1.52-1.68 1.72-1.88 1.92-2.07 2.12-2.27 2.31-2.50 2.68-2.92 3.05-3.33 3.80-4.16 4.56-4.95 5.36-5.74 6.10-6.59 6.89-7.38 7.69-8.17 8.48-8.97 9.27-9.76
40 inches Lb./50 yd. 1.16-1.26 1.26-1.42 1.46-1.64 1.69-1.87 1.91-2.09 2.12-2.31 2.35-2.53 2.57-2.79 2.98-3.25 3.39-3.70 4.22-4.63 5.07-5.50 5.95-6.39 6.78-7.32 7.65-8.21 8.54-9.08 9.42-9.97 10.30-10.85
42 inches Lb./50 yd. 1.21-1.32 1.33-1.50 1.54-1.73 1.77-1.96 2.00-2.19 2.23-2.42 2.46-2.65 2.69-2.93 3.12-3.40 3.55-3.89 4.43-4.85 5.32-5.78 6.35-6.70 7.12-7.69 8.04-8.61 8.97-9.54 9.98-10.46 10.82-11.39
45 inches Lb./50 yd. 1.30-1.42 1.42-1.60 1.65-1.85 1.90-2.10 2.15-2.35 2.40-2.60 2.64-2.84 2.80-3.13 3.35-3.65 3.81-4.17 4.75-5.20 5.70-6.19 6.70-7.18 7.62-8.24 8.61-9.23 9.60-10.22 10.60-11.21 11.59-12.21
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-113
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 148 - Pilling Resistance of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the resistance of pilling and other changes in surface appearance of fabrics, such as fuzzing, by simulating normal wear. Pilling can be affected by yarn and fabric construction, fabric-finishing treatments, type of fiber or blends, fiber dimensions. B. Reference: ASTM D3512-96 Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble Pilling Tester. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. Random Tumble Pilling Tester Cork Cylinder Liners Vacuum Cleaner (home canister type, to clean specimens after testing) Air Injection Device (to give 2 psi air pressure in each test chamber) Cotton Sliver (75 grain for improving visibility of pills on specimen) Adhesive (white all-purpose, for sealing edges of samples) ASTM Photographic Rating Standards Masking Tape
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #148: Step 1 2 3 4 Action Cut three square specimens measuring 4.13 inches on the bias. Stagger the specimens so that none of them contain the same warp and fill yarns. Mark the specimens as 1, 2, and 3. Seal the edges of the specimens to a width not exceeding 3mm on the face of the fabric with adhesive. Allow specimens to dry for at least two hours Fit a cork liner that has not been used previously around the inner surface of a cleaned test chamber. Tape the outside edge of the cork liner to the chamber wall at the butt joint with 1 inch wide masking tape. Discard cork liners that have been used for one hour on each surface. Place three specimens, all from the same sample, and about 25 mg of 5-mm gray-dyed cotton sliver into the test chamber. Place the end cover on the chamber, and set the timer for a running time of 30 minutes.
5 6
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-114
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 148 - Pilling Resistance of Fabrics,

Continued
Step 7 8 9 10 11 12
Action Start the testing machine. In the course of the run, check each test chamber at frequent intervals to make sure the specimen is not hung-up inside the chamber. After each 30 minute run, remove each specimen and clean off the excess cotton fiber using the vacuum cleaner. Evaluate samples according to Evaluation section below. Place specimens back into chambers along with another 25 mg of 5-mm gray dyed cotton sliver and repeat steps 6 8 for an additional 15 minutes of testing time. Remove specimen and clean off the excess cotton fiber using the vacuum cleaner.
Evaluation
A. Using the ASTM Photographic Rating Standards, rate the face of each specimen, after the respective tumbling times, on a 45 degree angle. Rate according to the following numerical values: #5 No piling #4 Slight pilling #3 Moderate pilling #2 Severe pilling #1 Very severe pilling A. Average of three samples #3 minimum. Initial Release: 10/90 Revised: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-115
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 149 - Thread Count
Purpose and Scope
A. To count the actual number of warp threads and fill threads per inch.
Apparatus
A. Hand Held Illuminated Microscope Model 7513/30X Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #149: Step 1 Action Place hand held microscope over sample and count the threads in warp and fill directions.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Multiply the number of threads in the warp direction by 9 to get the threads per inch. B. Multiply the number of threads in the fill direction by 9 to get the threads per inch. A. N/A Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-116
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 150 - Water Repellency of Fabrics/Spray Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure the resistance to wetting of fabric by water. This method does not measure the penetration of water through fabric. B. Reference: AATCC Test Method 22-1989 Water Repellency: Spray Test. A. B. C. D. AATCC Spray Tester Beaker Distilled Water AATCC Standard Spray Test Rating Chart
Apparatus
Procedure
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #150: Step 1 2 Action Fasten the specimen securely in the 6 metal hoop so that it is wrinkle-free. Place the hoop on the stand of the tester so that the fabric is uppermost, in such a position, that the center of the spray coincides with the center of the hoop. If the fabric is a twill, gabardine, pique, or fabric of similar ribbed construction, the hoop should be placed on the stand in such a way that the ribs are diagonal to the flow of water running off the specimen. Pour 250 ml of distilled water at 80 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 2 degrees, into the funnel of the tester and allow the water to spray onto the test specimen. Upon completion of the spray period, hold the hoop by one edge and tap the opposite edge firmly against a solid object one time, with fabric facing the object. Rotate the specimen 180 degrees and tap it once more on the point previously held.
3 4 5
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-117
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 150 - Water Repellency of Fabrics/Spray Test, Continued
Evaluation
A. Using the AATCC Standard Spray Test Rating Chart, evaluate the wet or spotted pattern on the test specimen. Rate according to the following numerical values: 00 No Sticking or Wetting of Upper Surface 90 Slight Random Sticking or Wetting of Upper Surface 80 Wetting of Upper Surface at Spray Points 70 Partial Wetting of Whole of Upper Surface 50 Complete Wetting of Whole of Upper Surface 0 Complete Wetting of Whole Upper and Lower Surfaces
Specification
A. 70 Partial Wetting of Whole of Upper Surface minimum Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-118
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 151 - Appearance After Laundering of Fabrics
Purpose and Scope
A. To evaluate the appearance to laundering of textiles which are expected to withstand frequent laundering A. B. C. D. E. Automatic Washing Machine Automatic Tumble Dryer Drip dry and line dry facilities 1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent or Tide Laundry Detergent Dummy Load of 36 x 36 hemmed pieces of bleached cotton or polyester/cotton sheeting F. Scale with at least 10 lb. capacity Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #151: Step 1 2 3 4 Action A. Washing Use a specified water volume, selected water temperature for the washing cycle, and a rinse temperature of less than 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Add 66 grams of 1993 AATCC Standard Detergent or Tide Detergent. Add the test specimens and enough dummy pieces to make an 8.00 +/- 0.25 lb. load. Remove specimens immediately after the final spin cycle, and dry by procedure 1, 2, 3, or 4 below.
Apparatus
Procedure
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Page: 16-119
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 151 - Appearance After Laundering of Fabrics, Continued
Step 1 2 3
Action B. Drying Tumble Drying. Place the washed load (test specimens and dummy pieces) in the tumble dryer. Operate the dryer until the total load is dry. Line Dry. Hang the specimen on an appropriate hanger, straightening and smoothing facings, seams, etc. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. Drip Dry. Hang dripping wet specimen with the fabric length in the vertical direction or on an appropriate hanger. Straighten and smooth facings, seams, etc. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature, until dry. Screen Dry. Spread each specimen on a horizontal screen or perforated surface, removing wrinkles but not distorting or stretching it. Allow the specimen to hang in still air at room temperature until dry. Repeat the selected washing and drying cycle four additional times for a total of five launderings.
Evaluation
A. Compare the appearance of the tested specimen to an untested specimen. Note any changes (such as wrinkling, puckering of seams, opening of seams, pilling, etc.) that have occurred due to the laundering procedure. A. Slight Change Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 11/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-120
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 152 - Tensile/Elongation Test of Thread
Purpose and Scope
A. To measure strength and elongation of sewing threads.
Apparatus
A. Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation setting (aps) arid thread mode. B. Thread Testing Attachments C. 100 lb. load cell Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #152: Step 1 2 3 4 5 Action Cut three thread specimens each measuring five inches in length. Wrap one thread specimen around upper and lower thread testing attachments a minimum of three times to prevent specimen from slipping through clamps. Close clamps. Test sample and print out results. Repeat steps 2 4 two more times to get an average tensile strength and elongation of three samples.
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Report the average thread tensile in pounds for the three samples. B. Report the average thread elongation in inches for the three samples. A. For handbags: 9 pounds minimum. B. For small leather goods: 5 pounds minimum. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-121
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 153 - Bend Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the adhesion of surface finish to flexible metallic or plastic base components. This method works on surfaces plated with copper and nickel and on painted surfaces, among others. A. Vise. Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #153: Step 1 2 Action Clamp half of a sample that is approximately 6 inches long in a vise. Bend the sample in one direction, just more than 90 degrees, and then in the opposite direction, just more than 90 degrees.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Examine the area that has been bent for evidence of separation of the finish from the base material. A. No detaching of finish from base material. Initial Release: 1/95 wp Revision: 12/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-122
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the strength and durability of handbag handles and straps and associated components. A. Handle Hold Tester, which has a four inch drop and cycles at 18 +/- 5 cycles/minute. Speed can be adjusted within this range for minimum handbag swinging. B. Weights (lead shot bags) Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #154: Step 1 Action Place appropriate weight load inside handbag, as evenly as possible and set number of cycles on handle hold tester. Guidelines are as follows: Shoulder Strap Handbags Small/Medium 10 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000 cycles Large 15 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000 cycles Bale Handle Handbags Small/Medium 10 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500 cycles on each handle separately and 2,500 cycles both handles together Large 15 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500 cycles on each handle separately and 2,500 cycles both handles together 2 3 4 Attach the loaded sample to the hook on the handle hold tester. Start machine. Cycle the loaded handbag until the test is complete or until failure, whichever occurs first.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record the amount of weight loaded into the handbag. B. Record the number of cycles completed and whether there was a failure at this point or not. If there was a failure describe where the failure occurred (ex- seams, piece goods, hardware, etc.)
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Page: 16-123
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test, Continued
Specification
A. Shoulder Strap Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change to handbag. B. Bale Handle Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change to handbag. Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-124
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 155 - Tumble Test
Purpose and Scope
A. Impact resistance, scratch resistance, accelerated wear, and tendency of attached objects on the bag to be damaged, are evaluated through the use of this method. A. Hexagonal drum with interior surface of smooth hardwood, revolving @ 2.5 RPM, with stationary metal plate and baffles to continually drop the handbag and move it to the front and rear of drum. B. Weights Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #155: Step 1 Action Place appropriate weight load and handbag stuffing (tissue) inside handbag, using the following guidelines: Small Handbags: 2.5 lbs. Medium Handbags: 5 lbs. Large Handbags: 10-15 lbs. Place handbag into drum and set drum for 500 cycles. Start machine. Look at handbag at different intervals to evaluate the handbag in relation to its original appearance or a control sample.
Apparatus
Procedure
2 3 4
Evaluation
A. Record any change in characteristics of handbag body, trim, hardware and handles. Rate any changes as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change A. Slight Change Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-125
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 156 - Wear Test
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the performance rating of accessories during actual use by employees. A. Employee dimensions of fit and size B. Wear Test Form Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #156: Step 1 2 Action Distribute sample to be wear tested to employees with a wear test report form. Wear tester should comment on the performance, quality, appearance, comfort, fit, size and color of the sample being tested, as soon as a comment can be made if there is a problem, or after one months consistent use of product. Wear tester should rate the overall performance of the sample as: #1 poor #2 fair #3 good #4 very good #5 excellent. Obtain completed wear test report forms from wear testers.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Publish reports for all samples that are problematic. A. N/A Initial Release: 10/90 Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-126
November 5, 2003
Standard Test Method # 157 - Volumetric Sizing of Pantyhose
Purpose and Scope
A. To determine the size of pantyhose by means of comparing one size to another. A. Volumetric Sizing Machine Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test Method #157: Step 1 2 3 1 2 3 Action A Panty: Place crotch portion of machine in the raised position. Place pantyhose on machine and pull the waistband down until the gauge reads panty. Complete the evaluation. B Leg: Place the crotch portion of the machine in the lower position. Place pantyhose on machine and pull the waistband down until the gauge reads leg. Complete the evaluation.
Apparatus
Procedure
Evaluation
A. Record inch mark on side of machine. A. Vendor should submit size specifications prior to testing as these specs vary from style to style. Initial Release: 4/99 cf Revision: N/A
Specification
Release/ Revision
Liz Claiborne, Inc.
Page: 16-127
November 5, 2003

Packaging Manual

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Chapter 16 Liz Claiborne Accessories Packaging Guidelines: Handbags/Small Leather Goods Overview

Elements of the Program

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Elements of the Program (continued)

Element Interior Packaging

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Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Packaging Requirements Carton Tape and Labeling Requirements

Carton Sealing Tape (Special Handling)

Quality Alert Stickers

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Carton Size and Dimensions

Master Cartons with Inner Cartons

Gross Weight Max 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs.

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Carton Size and Dimensions, Continued

Master Cartons with Product

Gross Weight Max 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs. 50 lbs.

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Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Silica Gel (Desiccant) Packets

Interior Woven Label

Production Date Codes

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General Guidelines, Continued

Production Date Codes (continued)

Randolph Rand Stickers

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

General Guidelines, Continued

Protective Wrapping Hardware and Shoulder Straps

Shoulder Strap Wrapping

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General Guidelines, Continued

Shoulder Strap Wrapping (continued)

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

General Guidelines, Continued

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Carton Marking and UPC and CIB Sticker Placement

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Carton Marking Location Diagram

Diagram 1: Carton Marking Location

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Master Cartons Markings & UPC & CIB Sticker Placement

Diagram 3: Master Carton Markings

Diagram 4: Master Carton Markings

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Inner Carton Markings & UPC Sticker Position

Diagram 5: Inner Carton Markings

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Polybag with Product & UPC Sticker Placement

Diagram 6: Polybag with Product

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Mexico Labeling Requirements for Accessories

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Overall Approach to International Labeling and Marking

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Liz Claiborne, Inc.

Accessories Labeling Instructions for Mexico

Accessories Labeling Instructions for Mexico

Same as USA N/A Same MultiLingual as USA Same MultiLingual as USA

Continued on next page

Liz Claiborne, Inc.