Handsewn

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smocking

Skill level
ToolS and maTerialS
Smocking paper or iron-on dots
Long darner and strong thread
for gauging
Crewel needle
Embroidery floss

BASIC METHOD

After calculating the amount of fullness you

require, cut out your fabric, and neatening any raw
edges, mark the reverse with dotseither iron-on
smocking dots or use the design on the fabric (on
the wrong side).

HONEYCOMB STITCH

On the right side of the fabric, with the thread

positioned above the needle, stitch the first two
pleats together but bringing the needle out between
the pleats.

94

The term smocking describes the technique of embroidering very small pleats or gathers
together in a decorative way. This is a great way to dispose of fullness, as it can use up to
four times the finished width in fabric but still allows the area worked to be elastic. The
pleating or gauging is created by making many rows of gathers. These gathers need to be
in very straight rows, vertically and horizontally, so that the pleats all fold up neatly. This
can be achieved by using smocking dotsa specially prepared paper that can be ironed
on to the reverse of your fabric. There are several styles of smocking, different ways of
creating pattern depending on how you embroider on top of the pleats, and different
smocking techniques. More of these are demonstrated over the
See also
page, including Vandyke stitch, feather stitch, and trellis stitch.

Skill level
ToolS and maTerialS

Cant see the

stitches? Youre not
meant to!

Estimating thread
quantities, page 250

Using a needle and piece of strong thread with

a large knot in the end, long enough to stitch
the length of the fabric, make a small stitch through
each dot, or at even intervals across the fabric,
avoiding any seam allowances.

Move down to the next row of gathers and

make a stitch from right to left on the same
pleat. Then with the thread below the needle make
a stitch in the next pleat, bringing the needle out
between the pleats.

Fold your seam edges and butt the two pieces

together. Secure the end of the thread inside one
of the folded edges with a double stitch. Working from
the right side of the fabric you can now start to make
the ladder stitches. The length of the stitch needs to be
consistent in size, anything from 116 in (2 mm) to about
in (10 mm), depending on the choice of fabric and
area to be sewn.

When all the gauging is complete, draw up the

threads to the desired width and secure the
gathering threads by tying them off in pairs. Adjust
the pleats and ensure that they are all standing up
on the right side.

With the thread below the needle, move up to

the first row of gathers and make a stitch in the
same pleat. Repeat these steps until the row is
completed. Fasten off by taking the needle through to
the back and making a couple of small overstitches.

Make each stitch as described in steps 2 and 3,

ensuring the thread is at a right angle to each
fold. To make sure the stitches are invisible, the
thread must enter the fold behind where it emerged
from the previous fold.

52

Winter ivy
Cutwork, page 160
Crewel work, page 184
Appliqu, page 53
Embroidery, page 46

Lavender heart

Holly wreath

Bullion knots, page 128

Satin stitch, page 80
Beading, page 110

Embroidery, page 46
Beading, page 110
Ribbon work, page 208

fruit and flowers

Spring window box

Summer oranges
and lemons

Embroidery, page 46
Appliqu, page 53
Crewel work, page 184

Satin stitch, page 80 Chain stitch, page 50

Appliqu, page 53 Crewelwork, page 184

Simply flower
Satin stitch, page 80
Long and short knots, page 129
Beading, page 110
Crewel work, page 184

directory of motifs

Spring bulbs

Rowan leaves and

berries

Fall seeds

Appliqu, page 53
Cutwork, page 160
Embroidery, page 46

Beading, page 110

French knots, page 126
Stem stitch, page 44

appliqu stitches

Ladder stitch is extremely versatile and used a great deal in sewing for home decor,
upholstery, and for closing any openings in seams. The stitch is worked from the right
side of the fabric along the folds of the seam allowance and when worked well, the seam
will look as though it has been worked from the reverse side and will be almost invisible
from the right side. The stitch length can vary depending on the application. One of the
most common uses for ladder stitch is in sewing linings to curtains and blinds, and
sewing up the seams of cushion covers. It is also an excellent stitch for matching patterns
on fabrics, sewing the top cover onto upholstered furniture, or indeed in any situation
where you can only work from the right side and want your sewing to be completely
invisible. For sewing garments, this is the classic stitch for repairing split seams. And if
you ever need to perform emergency surgery on a stuffed toy, then these are the sutures
to finish off the operation.

Appliqu is an embellishing technique using a contrast fabric, which is

cut into decorative shapes, and stitched to a backing fabric. It is usually
created with a satin, running, or buttonhole stitch. In fact any decorative
stitch used imaginatively will work, as long as the motif is attached
securely to the background fabric. This technique has been widely used
for centuries to decorate textiles, whether for garments or soft furnishings,
all intricately and exquisitely hand sewn, and has made a huge resurgence
in the past few years.

Hold the thread at a right angle from the

bottom fold. Then place the needle in the top
fold, and take a stitch to the right-hand side of the
thread. Bring the needle out at the desired stitch
length. Pull the needle through the fabric.

Hold the thread at a right angle from the top

fold. Cross back to the bottom fold, and take a
stitch to the right hand-side of the thread. Bring the
needle out at the desired stitch length. Pull the
needle through. This creates a ladder-like stitch
between the edges of the fabric.

Skill level
ToolS and maTerialS:

After deciding on your design, make a paper

template for each of your appliqu motifs and
add a in (6 mm) turning allowance all the way
round. Trace onto your chosen fabric and cut out.
Turn under the small hem on each and baste.

Place each of the appliqu motifs in position on

your main fabric, then pin and baste in place.

Lazy daisy stitch, page 63

French knots, page 126
Satin stitch (leaves), page 80
Long and short stitch, page 37

fruit and flowers

227

stitch directory

The stitches between the fabric folds will be at a

slight angle to each other but when the thread is
pulled taut the seam will close without any stitches
visible on the right side of the fabric. Continue and
complete the seam, securing the thread ends.

Make sure that you gently pull the thread taut

on every couple of stitches as you work, but do
not over tighten the thread or the seam will look
puckered and may distort. It is better to have the
thread slightly slack than too tight.

Stitch in place through all the layers using a

running stitch, satin stitch, blanket stitch, or any
other embroidery stitch that works with your design
and choice of fabric. Once the motifs are in place, you
can remove the basting thread.

Scissors
Pins
Needles (sharps or betweens)
Tacking thread
Embroidery floss
Paper for making templates
for motifs
Selection of fabrics of a
similar weight
Fusible bonding web or
fusible interfacing; can be
useful for fine fabrics

See also
Satin stitch, page 80
Running stitch, page 39
Feather stitch, page 97

As you build up the

appliqu, you can embellish
selected areas with other
embroidery stitches, such as
French and bullion knots, feather
stitch, or beads.

The row of black stitches is

cable smocking (for how-to, see
over the page). Viewed from the
back (right), the temporary
gathering stitches are drawn up
tightly to create the ridges for
the embroidered stitches on the
front. Neat and even gathers are
essential for good smocking,
and once smocking is finished,
these temporary stitches can
be removed.

stitch directory

226

Needle depends on the project:

Long darner: soft furnishings
Curved needle: upholstery
Sharps or betweens: general
sewing
Choice of thread is dependent
on the type of fabric and the
project to be sewn.
Pins

ladder stitch

The background fabric could

also be embellished as part
of your design with embroidery
stitches and beading.