HAKKO 936 - Schematic

Rendered by: Tom Hammond - NSS

MAIN PC BOARD
VREF R11 180k 1% IC2B 5 R12 130k 1% C6 .01/25v 6 _ + OUT LM324 7 100k 1 3 R13 2 4 C9 VREF R16 1k2 R15 24k0 TEMP CTRL 5k0 HEATER LED R14 1k0 .01/25V R2 1k8

26 MAR 2011

v1.7

IC1 TRIAC DRIVER NC B A C G F E D 8 7 6 5 R4 1k C4 .01/50V R3 15k

NEC* PC1701C Zero Volt Switch

VREF VCC

ALPS RK09L 1140A65 5K (502B) LINEAR

IC2C NEC PC324A Lo-Pwr Quad OpAmp U1C 10 V+ 4 + 8 OUT _ 9 11

VCC

AC

R10

680 C2 47F 16V C1 220F 50V C3 47F 16V

R6 27k0 1% VREF

1N4148

D2 LM324 D1

V-

ZD2 5.1Vz 500mW

3 R9 66k5 1%

IC2A + OUT 1

VEE

2 _ LM324

ZD1 5.1Zv 500mW R1 360 2W metal film D3 1N4007 VEE VREF

R7 5k1 1%

Note: " " = CKT GND

Q1 T1 NEC AC05D 5A TRIAC T2 G

R17 1M0 SOLDERING IRON PLUG SLEEVE GND

5

R8 390 1%

CAL CTRL

300

1 3

HANDSET SOCKET
C7 SENSOR PINS 0.1 25V

13 12

IC2D LM324 OUT 14 SOLDERING IRON/CHASSIS GND

HEATER PINS

HANDSET TIP GND

R5

1k0 1% HOT BLK

120VAC 2A

CHASSIS GND

POWER XFMR

CHASSIS GND

C5

.01/25V

GRN

AC ON/OFF PC BOARD
NEUT GND

120VAC

24VAC

WHT

CHASSIS GND

HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT

Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7 PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COPPER (SOLDER) SIDE

HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT

Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7 PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE

HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT

Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7 PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE
HEATSINK R4 Q1 R6 D1

R13 IC1 C2 +

VCC

T1 T2 G

D2 R7

VCC JP1 HTR

K A

C3 + C7 VEE VCC + C1

IC2 R2

PVR1

LED

N/C

FG

+ CN1 R15

VEE

5 4 3

1 2

R12

R10 VR2 VREF N/C R8

HAKKO 936 TEMPERATURE-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATION PC BOARD LAYOUT

Rendered by: Tom Hammond, NSS 26 MAR 2011 v1.7 PC BOARD AS VIEWED FROM THE COMPONENT SIDE
HEATSINK

1k 100k AC05D B1081 27k 1% 1N4148 1N4148 5.1k 1% J 0.1 25v C324C 1.8k 5k 47uF 16v 47uF 16v

C1701C

24k 680 130k 1% 300

220uF 50v

390 1%

HAKKO 936-x PC Board Parts List

C1 C2 C3 C4 C5 C6 C7 C8, C10-C13 C9 D1 D2 D3 IC1 IC2 Q1 R1 R2 R3 R4 R5 R6 R7 R8 R9 R10 R11 R12 R13 R14 R15 R16 R17 ZD1 ZD2 PVR1 VR2 220uF 50V 47uF 16V 47uF 16V 0.01 (103) 50V Ceramic 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic 0.1 (104) 25V Ceramic n/a 0.01 (104) 25V Ceramic 4N4148 Small Sig Sil, or similar 4N4148 Small Sig Sil, or similar 1N4001, or 50VDC (or higher) @ 1A NEC* PC1701C, Zero Volt Switch NEC* PC324A, Lo-Pwr Quad OpAmp NEC AC05D 5A Triac 360 2W 5% metal film 1.8k 1/4w 5% carbon film 15k 1/4w 5% carbon film 330 1/4w 5% carbon film 1.0k 1/4W 1% metal film 27.0k 1/4W 1% metal film 5.11k 1/4w 1% metal film 390 1/4w 1% metal film 66.5k 1/4w 1% metal film 680 1/4w 5% carbon film 180.0k 1/4W 1% metal film 130.0k 1/4W 1% metal film 100k 1/4w 5% carbon film 1k 1/4W 5% carbon film 24k 1/4w 5% carbon film 12k 1/4w 5% carbon film 1M 1/4w 5% carbon film 5.1Vz 500mW, 5.4Vz (measured) 5.1Vz 500mW, 5.2Vz (measured) TEMP ADJ POT - ALPS RK09L1140A65 5K (502B) LINEAR CAL TEMP POT - Bournes 3362P-1-501LF, see note below

* NOTE: NEC, is now part of Renesas Electronics Corp. CAL TEMP CTRL NOTE: In the 936, the CAL TEMP pot is 300 Ohms, however we were unable to find a pot in this physical format rated at 300 Ohms, so a 500 Ohm device has been specified as a suitable substitute.

ADDING AN ON/OFF LED TO HAKKO 936-X TEMP-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATIONS

by: Tom Hammond, NSS 03/09/2011, v.4.1

Is it turned ON or not?

By golly, it WAS, but how could you tell?

ADDING AN ON/OFF LED TO HAKKO 936-X TEMP-CONTROLLED SOLDERING STATIONS

by: Tom Hammond, NSS rev. 03/09/2011
The Hakko 936-x line of temperature-controlled soldering stations has one flaw. It offers no real POWER ON/OFF indication. There is a red LED which illuminates when heat is being applied to the tip of the iron, but it lights ONLY when heat is being applied. As a result, if you glance at the station when no heat's being applied to the tip, you might think the device is actually turned off. I've walked off and left the soldering station running for several days because the red LED was extinguished when I looked at it, even though power was still applied. Here's a fairly simple-to-install mod which will add a green LED to the right hand side of the front panel on the 936. This LED will be illuminated any time power is applied to the soldering station. 1. Remove four (4) screws from the bottom of the case, and lift off the case top. 2. Remove the temperature control knob and carefully loosen the setscrew in the temp-lock mechanism. Remove the setscrew and nut and set them aside in a safe place. 3. Lift the front panel/PC board combination out of the case and carefully desolder the 6-pin (five [5] pins and one [1] lug) soldering iron cable connector from the PC board. USE CARE HERE. 4. With the 6-pin connector free of solder, hold the front panel on its sides with both bands and use your thumb to press on the shaft of the temp. control pot to push the PC board assembly away from the front panel. 4. Using Figure 1 (see next page), a scale drawing of the front panel, as an overlay of the drilling template, lay the template onto the front panel and CAREFULLY center punch and then drill a 3/16" (4.75mm) hole. Then use a much larger (about 1/2" / 13mm) bit (hand-held), or a hand reamer bit, to 'hollow' out a bit of the back side of the hole just drilled to allow the new LED to extend out the front of the panel just a small distance. 5. Refer to Figure 2 (next page),SOLDER SIDE of the PC board. Using a #60 (0.040") or smaller drill bit, drill four (4) holes, as indicated, to accept the new LED (green, T1-3/4 size), and the current limiting resistor (RL,3.0k to 3.9k 1W, the exact value is not terribly critical, a metal film/oxide resistor was selected for its smaller physical size), Mouser Electronics #594-5083NW3K900J (3.9k 2W metal film). 6. Once the four holes have been drilled, use a sharp knife blade and scrape away the solder mask from the two points indicated in Figure 2. Once these two points are cleaned of solder mask, tin the bare copper. 7. Regarding the LED... generally, there is a flat side on the base of the LED body to indicate the CATHODE side. Additionally, on most (though not all) LEDs, the CATHODE lead is the SHORTER of the two (assuming a new LED with un-cut leads). 8. ALL REMAINING STEPS REFER TO FIGURE 3 (next page). Install (BUT DO NOT SOLDER) the LED with its CATHODE lead in the hole indicated by the illustration. DO NOT BEND THE LED LEADS AND DO NOT SOLDER YET!!! 9. Insulate and bend the leads of RL at right angles and at appropriate distances to allow RL to drop into its mounting holes. Raise RL about 1/8" (3 mm) above the PC board and solder ONLY the lead which is connected at the top of the resistor to the copper land. 10. BEND the bottom lead of RL to the right, and around the ANODE lead of the LED. Use wire cutters to trim any excess lead length once the lead has been bent around the LED anode lead. DO NOT SOLDER YET. 11. Temporarily re-assemble the front panel and the PC board, ensuring that the 6-pin connector is properly inserted into its PC board holes. Ensure that the front panel and the PC board are well mated and parallel to each other, then press the green LED into its hole in the front panel so it seats properly. 12. With the new LED in place, solder the junction of RL and the LED anode lead. 13. Bend the CATHODE lead of the LED flat against the PC board and so it touches the adjacent area of the PC board from which you scraped away the solder mask. Solder the LED CATHODE to this point on the PC board. 14. Re-solder all (6) of the 6-pin heating element connector leads. 15. Reassemble the soldering station.

0.70" (17.8mm)

Figure 1 - Cut out the template at right. Then cut out the two marked areas so the template will clear the temp. control bearing and the heating element jack when laid on top of the front panel. Tape the template into place on the FRONT SIDE of the front panel. CAREFULLY center punch the point where the hole is to be drilled. Drill a 3/16" (4.75mm) hole from the front. You may want to first drill a smaller 'pilot' hole and work up, in steps, to the larger final hole diameter. This will often help reduce the chances of paint chipping, etc. Then, use a larger (handheld) bit (or a reamer) from the back side to 'hollow out' the back of the hole just enough to allow the tip of the new LED to extend out the front of the front panel to the same extent as that of the red LED. If the green LED is allowed to protrude a bit farther than the red LED, it will be more readily noticed as you use the device in a normal working environment.

Cut away these two sections of the template to allow the template to fit over the temp control bearing & heating element connector

1.33" (33.8mm)

Drill 3/16" (4.75mm) hole here

Figure 1. HAKKO 936-X T/C Soldering Station Front Panel (Viewed from the FRONT SIDE) Rev.: 03/09/2011 v4.1 Figure 3. Hakko 936-x PC board - New Components (as viewed from the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board)

Figure 2. Hakko 936-x PC board preparation (as viewed from the SOLDER SIDE of the PC board)

Bend existing power resistor out of the way (TOP of PCB) Scrape solder mask away from this part of the land. Drill four (4) holes (.025" to .04" dia.) in PC board at points shown After drilling, scrape solder mask away from this part of the land.

LED (shorter) Cathode lead

Green T1-3/4 LED with flat (cathode) side away from RL and bent flat against PC board to touch cleaned and tinned land) Anode (longer lead) Limiting Resistor (RL) (Insulate Leads & raise above PC board)