40k-Heresy-Online - Warhammer 40k and Fantasy Forums For Painting Tips, News &amp Tactics! - Red &amp Black Marine Armour

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Heresy-Online - Warhammer 40k and Fantasy Forums for painting tips, news & tactics! (http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/index.php) - Painting and Airbrushing (http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=102) - - Red & Black Marine Armour (http://www.heresy-online.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53357)
Commissar Ploss
Red & Black Marine Armour
HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - BLACK/RED/METALLIC This is a guide to show you how to paint Space Marines in a Black, Red, and Metallic style. Although not specific color scheme is of my own design and has/is being used on my own homebrew chapter: The Iron Diamond Spac is available from my userpage. Today i'm going to show you how to paint them. This guide uses only three colors. Chaos Black, Blood Red, and Boltgun Metal.
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MATERIALS: 1.) Citadel Paints Chaos Black Blood Red Boltgun Metal 2.) Testors Plastic Cement
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3.) Citadel Brushes (This tutorial only uses four (4) brushes) Citadel Citadel Citadel Citadel Standard Brush Medium Drybrush Detail Brush Fine Detail Brush
PREPARATION AND SET UP: 1.) Have a good working surface and steady table to work on. a picture of what my workspace look like is below key.
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2.)you will need to have all the pieces that you want to paint at the ready. I've converted this mini to a "double conversion is as simple as picking the bolters and arms you want off the sprue, and then removing the bolters a I picked two shoulder pads from a stock that i had basecoated in white spray a while back. I chose a crested righ mortis" with a crossed skull and an "I" and the left pad, i chose a non-crested skull and laurels version.
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HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - BASECOATING AND PAINTING STEPS 1:
1.) First you must basecoat all of the bits you want to paint. Using your Citadel standard brush (or equivalent) a Black paint to each bit. I personally like to basecoat each bit separately so i know that i've gotten all the areas i spray priming your minis with chaos black first and then re-applying another coat with the brush. I have found basecoat/prime coat.) 2.) Allow black basecoat to dry. usually takes 15-30 minutes. (Play some ping-pong or something...:P)
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3.) Once the black basecoat is dry, you can put away the Standard Brush, you will no longer require it. Ok, now Citadel Detail Brush (or equivalent), and apply a single coat of Citadel Blood Red paint to the areas of the mode notice that some of the black will show through using only one coat, however, do not worry, we will cover that in outside the boundaries of Red with your brush, do not worry, we will trim that up later. The areas to be covered For maximum drying efficiency, paint these bits in order they are listed: Pictures for each part are included. Legs: top segment of boots heel section front crotch plate seciton back, square arse section underneath, connection section. as the legs dry, glue the feet to a base of your choice. I just chose a generic black plastic base for this demo.
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(NOTE: As you progress, be sure to glue the bits in place the way you want. Not only is this efficient, but it cuts and increases the satisfaction of a quick-job-well-done. :) ) Torso/Body Armour: Neck collar/guard Ribbed chest straps ribbed center circle (do not paint the couplers or studded areas, yet)
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entire belt section, including buckle. (not the skull)
Arms/Boltguns Elbow pads wrist straps gauntlets and fingers right-hand boltgun casing left-hand master-crafted bolter textured area within casing
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Shoulder Pads Right shoulder crest (text as well) right shoulder trim (outward facing and inward facing parts) Left shoulder trim (outward facing and inward facing parts)
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Head eyes Helmet crest/intake (top) rear intake manifold that curves around each side Backpack Top most layer of pack, (with the holes) Both exhaust ports and housing
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all four square exhaust ports (front and back)
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HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - PAINTING PART 2: Alright, this is where the touch-up and finishing starts. Now that you have the entire model painted in a basic fa its time to start finishing the painting part.
From here we are going to use the Citadel Fine Detail Brush. The first step will be to put another coat of Blood R underpainted. We started with a single coat, and there are some areas that have black still showing through. Us coat of Blood Red to those areas.
After the second coat dries it will be time to add the metallic portions to the miniature. Again using the Fine De
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to all areas of the miniature that require it. those areas are: Backpack internal vent grates on exhaust ports (both round and square) Skull in center of pack side square comm-link attachments with round buttons (one on each side) all studs/rivets Head Ear sections/air scrubbers small couplings on either side of respirator vent ("mouth") Torso/Body Armor central studded section and couplings skull on belt buckle Shoulder Pads right-hand pad crossed skull and "I" left pad Skull and small ring securing laurels Arms/Boltguns Lower reciever and magazines for both guns handle sections on both guns top sights and rail Muzzle seciton and barrel do not paint the foregrips or eagles metallic
After the second coat of Blood Red, and areas of Boltgun Metal have been applied, you will need to use the Fine the mini that you over brushed with respective colors. In this case, the base color is black so we will use black t
After all these things have been completed you should have something that looks like the pictures below. Trimm second coat of Blood Red as well as the metallic details:
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HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - FINAL STEPS AND DRYBRUSHING:
With the regular painting completed its now time to finish the mini. The only finishing step that is included in th one. You will need to drybrush the entire model with Boltgun Metal. This adds dimension and depth to the mode appearance. Drybrushing Boltgun Metal is meant to mimic the effect of heavy use to the point that some of the metal again.
The areas you want to focus on the most while drybrushing will be the edges. That doesn't just mean the edges and raised area on the model. It gives the model a sheen of metallic texture that is reminiscent of Golden Daem
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Dwarf showcases and Games Day events. Drybrushing is one of those essential steps you need to take if you are amongst industry leaders such as the 'Eavy Metal painters.
To drybrush, you simply need to take you Citadel Medium Drybrush and dip just the tip into Boltgun Metal paint and brush the tip across the surface many times, until only faint traces of paint mark the paper. Then you will g strokes across the entire model, trying to make sure that the raised areas of the model recieve the most attenti
This process will require many dips and wipes of paint off your brush, but all you are trying to do while drybrush color you are using. hence the name "drybrushing." Essentially the brush you are using is almost dry as you bru paint, will leave very noticable marks and ruin the piece. However, a brush that is almost dry will only leave fain Here is an example of what my drybrushing sheet looks like. I've got squares of different colors painted on and to see what it will look like.
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Go over the Laurels on the left shoulder pad, the backpack housing and the chest plate ribbed areas. make sure brush the model. Quick strokes usually work the best. However, it will require some time to get the process dow You want to cover the helmet, Boltguns especially, and the legs as well. Get the kneepads top edges as this will well. The tips of the boots are an important area. When you have finished drybrushing the model you will have pictures below:
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And there you have your finished Miniature! Congratulations! You can now paint your Space Marines in a Black/ images showing this model paired with another version of the same. I'm working on fleshing out a battalion of t of different poses, and conversions. Please enjoy the finished product! :) below are pictures of this marine paired with another of the same chapter:
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and a picture with the older pattern jump pack in the same chapter colors
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I hope you've had as much fun reading this how to paint space marines tutorial as I have had putting it togethe Cheers, and may your painting be great! :drinks: Commissar Ploss
Commissar Ploss
01-12-10 01:50 AM
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EDIT: Added an example of what my drybrushing sheet looks like. -CP
Culler
02-20-10 10:40 PM
The red color looks like it could use a few more coats. The black primer underneath is showing through, which is a problem with black primer and bright colors. You can get around this by painting the areas you want to end up red first with chainmail or boltgun metal. The red then comes out looking red in a single coat, with a barely perceptible metallicness to it that makes it look great for armor.
Commissar Ploss
02-21-10 05:46 AM
Black primer was used as i did not want the colors to show too brightly. Going for a more subdued appearance in this instance. And the red on the finished mini pics did get multiple coats. Where did you see black showing through? Perhaps you mistook the metallic drybrushing as black primer? anywho, the idea behind this tutorial is to provide the novice painter an easy alternative to other painting styles, while still having the finished product look better than average. Hence only having three colors. This will allow you to paint and field more models in the same amount of time it would take you to paint half with a more complicated painting style. CP
Sethis
02-23-10 11:39 AM
Note that adding a single colour (Mechrite Red) will cut the amount of Blood Red coats from 3 to 1. If you paint all the red parts with Mechrite Red while sticking the model together, you will be able to simply do 1 coat of Blood Red after the entire model is glued together, to get a very solid red, which you can then touch up/drybrush over without risking any black showing through (I know that when I paint, I generally need 5 coats or more of slightly watered Blood Red before I start getting a good coverage on black. Basecoating with a foundation paint reduces this to 1-2 coats).
Commissar Ploss
Thanks for the tip Sethis! Much appreciated. :)
02-23-10 04:29 PM
although i'm still at a loss as to where there is any black showing through... i still can't seem to find it in any of the pictures. could someone point it out.
Nestor
02-25-10 04:49 PM
I think that due to the metal drubrushing it appears that black is showing through red. Maybe I am wrong. It would be better for a daylight shot. Another way to paint red would be to use scab red as your base coat after black priming.. I haven't used the foundation paint as of yet, since I was out of the hobby for a good couple of years..
Sethis
02-25-10 04:59 PM
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The most noticable parts are on the balls of the backpack, the heels and the top middle sections of the backpacks, especially in the 3rd and 2nd last photos. I didn't actually mean you had black showing through on the finished product, I just meant in general, Mechrite does a very good job of stopping black showing through! :)
Commissar Ploss
02-25-10 05:27 PM
ah yes, i see what you mean. I did notice that black was showing through on those pictures. That was why i did a second coat. Thanks for pointing that out. :) CP
Levendus
Those models look like crap.
04-03-10 04:58 PM
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Heresy-Online - Warhammer 40k and Fantasy Forums for painting tips, ne...

HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - BASECOATING AND PAINTING STEPS 1:

entire belt section, including buckle. (not the skull)

all four square exhaust ports (front and back)

HOW TO PAINT SPACE MARINES - FINAL STEPS AND DRYBRUSHING:

EDIT: Added an example of what my drybrushing sheet looks like. -CP

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