History has the distinction of being a subject which comes alive through literature and monuments.

You can see and feel it and hold it as well. So a visit to see the historical monuments of the subcontinents rich history especially in the province of Sind is a must for any student of history. Sind has been the recipient of cultural influxes from the Indus Valley civilization to the British occupation all of whom left their mark in one way or the other. The Department of General History tries to organize field trips to places of historical significance in Sind as well as the rest of Pakistan. So a one day travel to Thatta, the graveyard of Makli and the ancient site of Bhanbore was organized on 30th of July 2011 for Third year students of history department. Departure was scheduled for 8:30 am but due to complications we departed at 9:50 am. The first stop was supposed to be Bhanbore but the bus driver went ahead and we decided to head to Thatta first instead. We reached there about 12:15 then after a tour of the Shahjahani Mosque there we went to the necropolis of Makli till 1:15. Finally from there we went on to Bhanbore where after lunch we toured the museum and the ancient site after which we returned to Karachi.

Grandeur of the Mughals

From the 14th to the 18th centuries, Thatta played an important role in the history of Sind, as the city, which commanded the delta of the Indus, had been successively the capital of the Samma, Argun and Tarkhan dynasties . For me Thatta was always associated with the desert and cultural center of some people in our past. The glory of Muslim architecture in Thatta city is the Great Jami Masjid built in 1644 by Mir Abul Baqa Amir Khan by the orders of Emperor Shahjahan as a gesture of gratitude to the people of Thatta for sheltering him during his youth after his father Emperor Jahangir banished him from Delhi. The governor at the time Mirza Jani Beg took a personal interest in the building of the mosque while Shahjahan did the opposite. The mosque was constructed in three years and took approximately 9 lac rupees to construct. The eastern wing including the central gateway was added later in 1658. Architecturally unique, this Jami mosque is distinct in its layout as well as in its materials. It is the first mosque in this region to be constructed according to the principles of Mughal courtyard architecture. The whole mosque measures 305' x 170'. Atypical of mosques, this building is elongated along the east-west rather than the usual north-south axis. The freestanding entrance built for the new garden is defined by a triple arched structure that imitates the Mughal style of arches contained within rectangular frames, with the central portion being projected higher than the others. It is built on axis with the main entrance to the mosque. The new garden is an imitation of the four-quadrant chahar bagh style, through which one walks to reach the mosque. All this information was gained from a notice board hanging inside the mosque. When we entered the gardens they were in a state of disrepair while the fountains were dry and crumbling. Different locals were stationed inside selling bangles, key chains, rings and little toys. The first impression of the mosque is impressive but on looking closer one notices the crumbling structures and breaking tiles. Since the mosque is in daily use this affects the structure even more.

It was here that we entered through a small side gate and first comes the pond for wuzu. The ablution pond is not located in the center of the courtyard. Instead, it is in a square courtyard located within the eastern portion of the mosque. After passing through that we go into the main courtyard. But first we were briefed on a short history of the mosque while a board also gives the details of the mosque. The main entrance is in the eastern portion and the secondary entrances are contained in the north and south portion. On the west side is the prayer hall housing the mihrab. Each bay is covered by a low dome, which adds up to 93 domes. We tried to count the domes but due to lack of time could not count them. There is a legend connected to the mosque that no one has ever been able to count the correct number of domes. One of the features of this mosque is that the proportion of the aisle to the low domes enables an acoustic range that allows the prayers read in front of the mihrab to be heard in all parts of the mosque. Obviously we had to test this and though we could not recite the azaan we recited a surah from the Quran. We went to the opposite end of the mihrab but by the time we reached the surah was finished, therefore the experiment=incomplete. Nowadays due to increased noise pollution speakers have been installed and azaan is given through these. At the time of our visit some areas were undergoing restoration.The mosque has become vulnerable to the elements and the original blue and white tiles have crumbled in places and since we could see this was in daily use then it was affected by people even more.

Secrets from the Grave

Legends, stories and beliefs become intertwined with truth with the passage of time and fact and fiction are impossible to separate as no one actually remembers which is which. That holds true for the graveyard at Makli which though neglected still holds some champions in the form of wizened old men who remember the ancient ones with nostalgia. These men serve as caretakers but remember a history which one cannot find in any history book or verify from any other source. One can almost imagine being transported back to those days of grandeur, protocol and warfare when these men describe the tombs and the men who are buried here. Though in the form of guides all over the world they tend to exaggerate but one cannot help but wonder if what they say is true. The great necropolis at Makli Hill, a mile west of Thatta town is one of the largest burial quarters in the world, littered with graves, tombs and mausoleums of saints, poets and writers, noblemen, governors, ministers, princes, kings and queens. This cemetery grew around the shrine of 14th century Sufi saint Hammad Jamali and along with him there are 125,000 Sufi saints buried here. Our first stop was the magnificent tombs of Isa Khan Tarkhan 2 and Diwan Shurfa Khan which were built during the Mughal era. The tomb of Isa Khan bin Mirza Jan Baba Tarkhan, completed in 1644 is the most imposing building at Makli. The guide there tells us that Isa Khan was the governor for 40 years and built this tomb during his lifetime. He informs us that the stones used were Rajasthani Jodhpur bricks and workers from Arabia, Gujarat and Rome worked on this tomb. It took 18 years to construct and contains a mehrab built in the outer walls. The graves of his family are also here but the inscriptions on the grave which are in Arabic and Persian have faded with the passage of time and are difficult to read. Once inside one has to suppress a shudder of revulsion, not due to the graves but to the many bats that reside inside the dome and give the place a strong, gagging smell. The guide grows a bit emotional saying that we should learn from these people who knew death was coming and made preparations for it, at the same time cursing the government who

does not seem to appreciate the heritage which has been left to us. He tells us that when they threaten to tell the world of the neglect being given to these historical monuments the government tells them to serve quietly or leave their jobs. But we can see for ourselves what is being done to our heritage all over Pakistan and how very few people know about our own rich past. Next comes the tomb of Diwan Shurfa Khan which is one of the best preserved and most colorful buildings on the hill and is unparalleled for its massive structure and beauty. Diwan Shurfa Khan was a minister of Nawab Amir Khan and the tomb was completed during his lifetime in 1638. His family is also buried there and his grave bears a cenotaph with superb Quranic calligraphy. A point of interest is a grave which is built of stone different from the usual sandstone and bears no calligraphy or inscriptions whatsoever it seems almost mysterious as if someone had stolen all the carvings from it. Along with Diwan Shurfa Khan is his brother Diwan Wafa Khan. I love discovering new places and so wanted to climb the minarets in the tomb of both Isa Khan and Shurfa Khan but bats (yuck!) had taken up residence and generally girls are not encouraged to do such things! Next we travel a fair distance by bus and then through foot on a sorts of trekking through bush and dirty water. After climbing some rough hand-hewn steps we come to a clearing which contains more tombs and individual graves and the first thing that we see are graves under a pavilion. Though not many of us cared for these as all were thirsty but did notice the supporting iron beams kept there to prop up the crumbling structure. It seemed sad to me that this was part of our history and no one here cares enough to preserve them properly instead props them up like a skeleton. Our first stop was the most beautifully carved structure I have ever seen which was the tomb of Jam Nizamuddin who died in 1508. Jam Nizamuddin bin Babinah, also called Jam Nindo was a ruler of the Samma dynasty who reigned for 48 years. He is reputed to have been religious and keeping peace in his dominions. The balcony was the most exquisite carved piece I have ever seen anywhere, minute geometric patterns and flowers in a traditional design with Arabic inscriptions both inside and out. The tomb is lavishly carved but the individual graves of Jam Nindo and his family members, his parents, three children and one sister are of plain stone. Over time due to his achievements and feats many heretical thoughts have become associated with the tomb of the Jam turning it into a shrine of sorts. It seemed strange standing inside almost as if violating a religious shrine but he was just a ruler nothing more. Sometimes I think people are just plain strange. Outside in the first canopy on the hill lie the graves of Jam Tamachi and his son and sister. Jam Tamachi is renowned due to the tale of Noori by Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai in his Shah Jo Risalo. He was a ruler of the Samma period and his full name was Jam Tamachi bin Jam Unar who fought against the Arghuns when they attacked Sind. The legend of Noori is that Noori was a fishermans daughter who caught the fancy of Jam Tamachi who married her for her beauty as Noori was rumored to have been beautiful as the moons light. The Jam then stayed here for her instead of going on with his army, many years later with the Jam away at war Noori fell ill with a viral disease and she prayed to God to give her a wet death so that her disease might not spread to others. Allah granted Noori her wish and she died in the middle of lake. When the Jam returned he could find no sign of Noori and kept waiting until his death for her return. This was told to us by the guide while Shahs Risalo tells us of Nooris simplicity and humility among the other queens of the Jam. True or not the story of Noori is a legend associated with Lake Keenjhar and many visit her shrine in the middle of the lake. The tale of

Jam Tamachi appeals to many a romantic heart especially mine as it seems so heart touching that even though he was a king he left everything just to wait for her, other men with so many wives would have left but he kept waiting. Aww The next tomb was that of Dulha Darya Khan whose real name was Jam Mubarak Khan who is reputed to have defeated the Arghuns and Pathans. Inside the tomb are two wells and similar to that of Jam Nindo this tomb also lacks a roof. The guide who seems fond of telling us tall tales shows us some symbols which reputedly say that he using a lock and key banded the frontiers and kept the Pathans out of Sind while at the same time saying that he was killed by a Pathan. He is called Dulha Khan because preparations for his wedding were going on when he was called away to war where he was killed in battle. Hilarity ensued as we began wondering what happened to his bride and whether she was beautiful or not, the logic being that if she had been beautiful he never would have left without marrying her first! The tomb of Sat Charni is one of the most badly damaged tombs, built in brick during the last quarter of the 16th century, representing a complex and original layout. It is a perfect octagon both internally and externally but now crumbling in many places and blocked to prevent access. On one wall of it villagers have built a shrine to Mai Makli from whom the graveyard is supposedly named. Thus here ends the tale of these kings, saints and governors who were buried here and are an integral part of Sinds history. But looking at the crumbling graves and tombs and the secluded necropolis we can sense that they have been abandoned. Abandoned by those whose responsibility is to preserve this heritage and show it to the world, many of our leaders claim to be from Sind and proudly wear the Sindhi topi but what have they done to protect this history. It is the states responsibility which it does not seem to be aware of. Our rich past need to be preserved and taught to our students who learn of the worlds cultures and civilizations yet do not know the first thing about their own province.

City of the Infidels

Finally to the last of our destinations, Bhanbore, the city said to have been Debal which was invaded by Mohammad bin Qasim, the young general who brought Islam to this area. Bhanbore is far more popular as the city of Sassi from the legend of Sassi Punnu.
Sassi was the daughter of King Adam Khan of Bhanbore. At her birth, the astrologers predicted that she was a curse for the royal family's prestige. The king ordered that the child be put in a wooden chest with a 'taweez' (amulet) tied on her neck and thrown into the river Chenab. The chest was seen floating by Atta, a poor washer man. The washer man believed that the child was a blessing from God and took her home and adopted her as his child. Sassi did not go to the palace but the king presented her with abundant gifts, lands and gardens where she could grow and blossom like a flower. When Sassi visited the place to offer her tributes and admire the rich art, she instantly fell in love with a painting, which was a masterpiece of heavenly creation. This was the portrait of Prince Punnu, the son of King Ali Hoot of Kech. Someone informed Punnu about Sassi's love for him. He disguised himself as a businessman and came to meet Sassi. They both fell in love at the first sight. Punnu's brothers developed an enmity for Sassi. That night the brothers pretended to enjoy and participate in the marriage celebrations and forced Punnu to drink liquor. When he was dead drunk, the brothers carried

him on a camel's back and returned to their hometown. The next morning when Sassi realized that she was cheated. She became mad with grief of separation from her lover and ran barefoot towards the city of Kech. She had to cross miles of desert land. The journey did not end. Some people say that she was taken away by a windstorm. Some say that she was swallowed by the desert. Some also say that she was taken by flames and reduced to death.

Our first stop was the museum where some of the girls could only notice what beautiful colored eyes our guide had! The museum was also divided into three sections housing artifacts found from the site. There were pottery of many types white paste, opaque, glazed, and Sgraffiato which is a technique of incision in the clay. Also unglazed pottery was used for everyday use and potteries with Kufic inscriptions from the Arabic era have also been discovered. Many glass objects such as bangles, candle stands and perfume bottles were also found from the site. Shell bone and ivory objects along with pendants in terra cotta and semi-precious stones are also found in abundance here. There is also a scale model of the site and the invasion of Muhammad bin Qasim shown in a vista. Next stop was the site itself which is a citadel town. It is 610 meters in length and 365 meters in breadth. Once, the town was restricted within the boundaries of the citadel. However, the growth of population caused the town to expand north and eastwards outside the citadel. The deep trenches laid inside the citadel reveal three different periods of history i.e. the Scytho-Parthian, HinduBuddhist and the Muslim Period. The defense walls are made of limestone surrounded by a moat and circular bastions with gateways on all side including one on the waterside. The first thing we saw was a semi-circular house near the walls which was most probably for a noble family. Not many buildings have survived as limestone brick tends to erode over time. The next place is the floor plan of a Grand Mosque built in the 8 th century undoubtedly the first mosque in the subcontinent. The curator informs us that the black and red tiled floor which was the original floor is now almost 72% conserved. The mosque has no mehrab and an entrance on the eastern side just like the Al-Wasit mosque in Mesopotamia. But sources say that it is built after the Grand Mosque built in Kufa in 670 A.D. There is a temple dedicated to the god Shiva on the western side but since it was made of mud bricks due to which the structure has long since deteriorated. After the invasion of the city by Mohammad bin Qasim the city was divided into two parts with the Eastern side being the Muslim Quarter and the Western side being the Hindu quarter. The gateway giving access to the waterside is surrounded by a bastion on other side and once granted access to the sea, but with the course of time this has deteriorated into a small creek which carries polluted water. There also used to be a garrison post on the western side, no remains of which survive today. Ancient cities used to have garrisons on the river so that they could be the first mode of defense and give the city time to prepare for battle. On the way back we saw a small room which was closed and had been conservated as it was the first room where during digging the floor was discovered to be of limestone. The speculation is that it was most probably used as a storage area for grains or other things which had to be protected from the elements. Human skeletons, rubble of buildings and layers of ashy charcoal and stones indicate some natural calamity or war that destroyed the city forever in the 13th century.