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INTRODUCTION The Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931.

With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative. Today, The Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 500 million) Lalbhai Group. Arvind Mills has set the pace for changing global customer demands for textiles and has focused its attention on select core products. Such a focus has enabled the company to play a dominant role in the global textile arena. With its presence across the textile value chain, the company endeavors to be a one-stop shop for leading garment brands. Forevision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate. Arvind is already making its presence felt in Shirtings, Knits and Khakhis fabrics apart from being all set to create ripples in the ready to wear Garments world over. Beyond business At Arvind, it is firmly believed that a successful company must play an active role in the development of the society from which it springs. Besides pursuing its business goals, it should also be responsible corporate citizen. It is because of these beliefs that Arvind is always on the forefront of extending a helping hand for the needy, downtrodden and for the society at large. Arvind has always been actively involved in the educational institution, hospitals and research institutions of Ahmedabad, its hometown. It co-pioneered the world renowned Indian Institute of Management, Ahmedabad (IIMA), and helped set up

the Ahmedabad Textile Industry Research Association (ATIRA), and The Kasturbhai Lalbhai Textile Training Center to develop and enhance the skills of textile workers. The Narottambhai Lalbhai Rural Development Fund and The Lalbhai Group Rural Development Fund where founded to undertake special programs for the economically deprived. It also assists the nearby villages, through nutritional programs, food camps and the harnessing of solar energy. Arvind & Environment A) Environmental Policy: Arvind Mills commits itself to continually improve our environmental management. It strives to go beyond the requirements of the applicable environmental laws & other regulations through: Optimizing usage of cotton, energy, chemicals & water. adopting preventive strategies to reduce the generation of effluents, waste & air emissions. maximizing the recycling of inevitable wastes. Encouraging suppliers & buyers to become environmentally responsible. maintaining a safe working environment. increasing the green cover. Training employees on environmental issues. B) Effluent Treatment Facilities: All the production / processing units are provided with adequate wastewater / water treatment facilities, to meet the requirements of regulating authorities as well as our reputed customers like Levis, Nike etc.

Arvind Mills at Santej has one of the largest effluent recycle plants in Asia with recycling capacity 10,500 m3/day. The latest & best of the technologies available in water / wastewater treatments can be seen in operation in this plant. The Arvind International (division) has Effluent recycling facilities comprising Chemical, Biological & tertiary treatment and it is of 800-m3/day capacity. The plant also has ISO 9000 & ISO 14000 certification. Arvind Mills @ the main site at Naroda also possess chemical, biological treatment facilities to treat 10000 m3/day of effluents to meet the pollution control board norms. Ankur Mills (division) has Effluent treatment plant of 1600-m3/day capacity with chemical & biological treatment facility to achieve the pollution board norms. Arvind Mills (Garment exports division) is setting up a new garment unit at Mysore road, Bangalore, along with Effluent treatment plant of 1450 m3 /day capacity. This plant also possesses chemical, biological & tertiary treatment facilities to achieve the State Pollution Control Board norms. The uniqueness of this plant is all its process water requirements will be attained through recycled sewage water of Bangalore City. C) Air pollution Control Arvind Mills has switched from liquid fuel to Natural gas for all their heating & steam requirements in order to avoid the air pollution. D) Solid waste Management All the units believe in waste minimization measures. All the ETP plants are provided with adequate sludge Dewatering facilities. Units at Santej, Naroda,

Arvind International & the upcoming Bangalore unit are provided with Decanter Centrifuges for sludge de-watering. De-watered sludge is dried in solar evaporation pans for further volume reduction. Waste oil generated in all the units is recycled. Polythene liners, Discarded containers are disposed off to the respective buyers. E) Afforestation & Rain water Harvesting Units at Khatrej & Santej have very good afforestation & green belts. The Santej unit has more than 1 lakh trees & other shrubbery. Plants like Jetropha (seeds used for Biodiesel generation) are grown extensively. ETP treated water is used for this plantation so as to minimize raw water consumption. Beautiful lawns with Fountains are part of the landscape. At the Santej unit ground water recharging facility is also developed where in yearly about 40 MLD rain water is recharged in to ground water table. Two recharge ponds with a capacity of about 4000 m3 are made & Rainwater during the monsoon is collected in these ponds & recharged in to Ground water table. About business Arvind Mills limited, today is a force to reckon with in the entire chain of Textile Industry. The yarns out of Arvind spinning mills are taken to be of the best quality. The company has its foothold in the Denim fabrics, being one of the top three producers of Denim worldwide. The shirting fabric is one of the most premium products out of Arvind stable and some varieties sell at a premium in international markets. Khakis are fast making inroads in the export market. Knits division today boasts of serving some of the best brands in the world and is in the process of ramping up the capacities looking at the potential demand. On top of it, today with the focus on the made ups, Arvind has already set up facilities in Bangalore, in south India, which would cater to some of the best names in the

ready made garments industry. The Indian ready made garments is well taken care of by a group company which owns and manages both the owned brands as well as the licenses of some of the best international brands like Arrow, Lee, Wrangler and Tommy Hilfiger for the Indian domain. Jeans division INTRODUCTION The new facility @ Bangalore has taken several steps towards quickly ramping up capacities in the post quota scenario and has started training its sewing operators in a Training Facility from October 2004 with an objective to have around 200+ trained workers by January 2005. The trained operators are now producing garments at the new facility in Bangalore. These operators have been trained under supervision of Garment Specialist, who had been a part of Levis USA garment facilities and is now helping us set systems and reach the desired productivity levels. The sewing plant is a state of the art plant using automatic machines to perform most operations. Most machines are from, Italy and we have automated operations like Back pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto J stitch, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach and bottom hemming. This greatly improves the productivity and also helps bring in more consistency in production. The sewing plant has capacity planned for 10 lines and the process of adding 300 more machines from May/ June 2005 onwards to increase the sewing and washing capacities to 3,00,000 pieces of sewing and washing per month is on. This shall be an integrated garment plant with in-house laundry with a capacity of 20,000-pieces/ day. Other than doing regular washing like stone, enzyme and

bleach washes, we shall be capable of doing state of the art washes like Hand Scrubbing, Sand blasting, Whiskers, Garment tinting, spraying and Coating with various chemicals, brushing, Grinding, Tacking and Permanent creasing in an oven. ABOUT PROCESSES Cutting State of the art Gerber CAD allows us to make precision patterns and markers efficiently. This allows buyers to interact directly with our cutting department and send us their patterns and markers. The Gerber spreader and cutter allow us to do efficient spreading and precision cutting. Not only does this helps us achieve high efficiency but also reduces rejection due to cutting mistakes. Sewing Arvind has imported computerized modern automated sewing machines from Italy/ Japan. This helps us to ensure high quality while maintaining high productivity. With a total area of 70000 sq. ft the cutting and sewing section has been planned to handle a peak capacity of almost 300,000 pieces per month. The sewing plant is a state of the art plant using automatic machines to perform most operations. Most machines are from, Italy and we have automated operations like Back pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto J stitch, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach and bottom hemming. Washing and finishing Currently our washing capacity is about 150,000 per month. With a total area of 37000 sq. feet the washing plant will be shortly capable of handling about 600,000 pieces per month. We have state of the art automated machinery from

Germany, Turkey and India and we are working with our Italy based Finish Designer to be up-to-date on new washes. We can offer sand blasting, brushing, garment tinting, destruct washes, various chemical sprays and permanent creasing and manual operations like hand scrubbing, grinding, tacking etc. PRODUCT PROFILE: With the above mix of machinery we specialize in making bottom wears. We produce basic 5 pockets, boot cuts, flares, engineered jeans, cargos, carpenters and customers specific hi fashion styles also. We can also manufacture skirts, shorts also. QUALITY & INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING: At Arvind, quality is a way of life. We ensure strict quality control and quality assurance mechanisms to ensure that the garments that come out of our lines are defect free. We have QC after each process of garment making and any defects that are identified are quickly corrected. We also have a system of roving QC, whose job is to identify defects even when the product is being manufactured. This helps us minimize corrections. We have staff trained in Industrial Engineering practices. They ensure proper engineering of the garments as well as proper work methodology. This helps us reduce defects due to human error. At Arvind we have always endeavored to offer the best quality to our customers.

CUSTOMER SERVICE In keeping with Arvinds customer-oriented philosophy we offer reliability and quality. The emphasis is firmly on innovation. Our Product Development Center at the Denim Mills is dedicated to creating and crystallizing customer vision. A

dedicated team of over 25 specialists from areas like Spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing, textile chemistry and washing finishes form the Development and New Technology Group. The group has a dedicated infrastructure, which includes Baby Rope Dyeing Range to develop new products and work on newer concepts to produce denim of tomorrow. Board of directors CHAIRMAN Mr. Arvind N. Lalbhai He is a Science Graduate and has been associated with the Company for over 60 years. He has been the Director since March 1974 and Managing Director since January 1975 till November 2002. He was the former President of the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry. WHOLETIME DIRECTORS Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, Managing Director Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, Director and Chief Financial Officer OTHER DIRECTORS Mr. S. R. Rao (Nominee of EXIM Bank) Mr. K.M. Jayarao (Nominee of ICICI Bank) Mr. V.K.Pandit (Nominee of IDBI) Mr. Sudhir Mehta Mr. Tarun Seth

Denim Garment Division Objective (Value for Customers)

Vertically integrate Denim Fabric capacities to service our customers with the Denim Village concept. Provide our customers with full packages which would include Fabric design Garment design and wash developments Production facilities to reduce lead times and overall costs Single point contact from fabric to garment

The Path (Is Arvind new to Garments ?) Arvind starts first Jeans brand Flying Machine in India in late 1980s Lee launched in India in 1994 Own production facility for denim garments started in 1993 Knits garment production starts in 1998 With Tops quota becoming available - Shirts export started in 2000 Vertical Denim Garments plant in Mauritius started in 2002 moved to India in September 2004 Tommy Hilfiger launched in April 2004 Licensee for Lee, Wrangler, Arrow, Tommy Hilfiger Strong Indian Brands - Newport, Flying Machine Quota-Free World - First denim garments unit in Bangalore, India starts January 2005 Denim Garment Division Bangalore, India Current Sewing Capacity (Mysore Road) 10000 pcs/ day Capacity at current product mix 8000 pcs/ day 10 lines operational

Washing Capacity 20000 pcs/ day (Three Shift)

Capability to do innovative washes incl. Hand Scrubbing, whiskers, spray treatments, resin treating and manual process like tacking, grinding etc

Plant commissioned Mid August 2005 Capacity to increase to 30000 pcs/ day by March 2007

Denim Garment Division Buildup of capacities Mysore Road (Bangalore) Current Capacity of 10000 pcs/ day - 10 Lines Fully operational

Yeshwantpur (Bangalore) Planned Capacity of 15000 pcs/ day - 15 Lines Production Started from 1st October 2006

Denim Garment Division Washing Laundry geared with Front loading 4000 ltr capacity Machines from Danis, Turkey Sampling Washing machines from Danis, Turkey (Development Centre) Hydro-Extractors and Dryers from Ramsons, India Dummies for Dry process and local destruction with pneumatic hand grinders Bench Grinders for the used look Laser Machines from LST, Turkey Spray chambers with waterfall for different spray effect Tacking machines for 3-D effects Sandblasting machines Oven for localised and overall resin based treatments

Buyers Europe USA J.H. 4% MUSTANG 2% BEN SHERMAN 3% ESPIRIT 2% S. OLIVER 2% Gap Inc (Gap, Old Navy) 47% The Childrens Place 2% Guess (Kids) Kmart Phatfarm (Kellwood) Rocawear 4% VF Europe 22% Marks & Spencer 8% Next 4% Debenhams Rica Lewis

HR DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE HR manager Assistant Manager HR Executive welfare officer Officer HR HR assistant Data entry Helper RESPONSIBILITIES HR Executive- Staff Compensation Management Group Staff Recruitment Staff attendance and leave updating Induction & training Loans and advances Staff and workers Compliances- Health , Safety and statutory executive-admin

Performance Management System System Management and Ownership.

HR Executive- Workers- TBR Termination and non performance of workers(sew, cut, finishing) Overtime approval Appointment and confirmation signature Monitoring contractor records Salary fixation of workers

Executive- Time OfficeExecutive- Time Office (sewing) Time Office Administration- Cut to finish Budget manpower Monitoring, updating Master Employee Creation Generation of Muster Roll/Manual Roll Salary and OT Processing. Grievance handling related to Salaries and Benefits. Generation of Manpower report. Generation of Late Coming, Single Punch report. Executive- Time Office (washing) Time Office Administration- washing Budget manpower Monitoring, updating Master Employee Creation Generation of Muster Roll/Manual Roll

Salary and OT Processing. Grievance handling related to Salaries and Benefits. Generation of Manpower report. Generation of Late Coming, Single Punch report.

Welfare Officer Welfare Officer (Sewing) Recruitment of employees Induction of employees.( locals /outsiders) Training module formulation with Production Training monitoring Performance evaluation Absenteeism counseling and Attrition Control Worker Committees Worker welfare Exit Interviews Crche/Cultural Activities. Welfare Officer (Washing / Dry) Induction of employees.( locals /outsiders) Training module formulation with Production Training monitoring Performance evaluation Absenteeism counseling and Attrition Control Worker Committees Worker welfare Exit Interviews

Human Resources for a business enterprise need a conceptual outlay to enable business managers to identify, plan and implement planning for manpower. Fundamentally, business situations have changed the world over. The rise of the intellect has been imminent. Human resource planning can no longer confine itself to the traditional sources for hiring and retaining. The human resources of today see their roles having changed from that of a doer to that of a thinker and on most occasion a thinker doer. HR VISION Be The Foundation That Integrates Culture, Vision & Values , Creates an Environment That facilitates The Maximization of Human Potential.

PHILOSOPHY WE BELIEVE In people and their unlimited potential. In content and focus in problem solving. In teams for effective performance. In intellect & its power. WE ENDEAVOUR To select, train and coach people to obtain higher responsibilities. To nurture talent to build leaders for tomorrow's corporation. To reward, celebrate and activate all intellectual business contributions. WE DREAM Of excellence in all endeavours. Of mutual benefit and prosperity.

Of making the world a better place to live in. We Make Things Happen. Number of operators per department Stores - helpers Sampling department Sampling tailors Checkers Trimmers Alt. tailors K/B opr. Cutter Helpers Cutting section Layers Sorting Numbering Fusing Helpers Feeding helpers Embroidery section General shf. 1 shift 2 shift Training section - trainees Maintenance department Sewing department Operators Helpers Trimmers Checkers Ironers Feeding helpers Finishing department Helpers 12 35 21 2 2 1 3 1 5 63 9 18 11 8 15 2 10 2 4 4 68 7 708 472 116 40 40 18 22 497 122

Receive fabric from supplier

Send to MG for Design Approval

Trimmers Checkers Alt. tailors Toppers Ironers m/checkers Packers Feeding helpers K/B opr. Spot wash

98 39 Visual Inspection of Fabric 5 Rolls 30 9 Send For Shade Variation Test 78 19 24 Generate GRN and send to customer 4
Shift Fabric Rolls In an Un inspected

Send fabric sample for Lab Test 69 (In house/CCL/Harwood)

Receipt of Production order

Review of Production order by Quality dept for Shrinkage n Marker Length

Review Of bill Of Material (BOM) at Trim stores

Issue of Purchase Order to CAD Dept for Calculation of Markers Average Consumption

Receipt Of CAD Information And Release of Production Control Sheet

Issue Of Production Control Sheet, Swatch Card And Production Order to Trims Dept

Issue Of Production Control Sheet, Marker & Fabric to Cutting Dept

Overall flow chart

Issue Of Cut Components With Required Fusible Components to Respective Sewing Batch

Issue the required Trims/Accessories to the Sewing Batch W.r.t P.O & W.O

Stitched Garments Are Dispatched To Harwood Washing Unit For Washing

Wrinkle Free treatment plant receives washed goods

Lab tests are carried out for Smoothness Appearance, DP Rating, and Crease Rating tests

Packing Section recieves W/F Treated Trousers which is Despatch The Polypack Goods in Cartons n Send to Final Checked Audited and Packed with are then Trimmed and Final And Polypacked trousers Desired trims N

Packing Section receives W/F Treated Trousers, which is Trimmed and Final Audited, and Packed with Desired trims N Accessories

Dispatch The Polypack Goods in Cartons n Send to Warehouse

Final Checked And Polypacked trousers are then received


Merchandising metaphorically termed as a point from where many rays in the form of the orders originates. Merchandising acts as a bridge between the buyer and the production house .The merchant understands all the demands required by the buyer and conveys all the information to his organization at various levels. He acts as a cross link between all the departments to communicate, monitor, distribute, gathers the essential information to achieve the goal of producing the entity using the optimum processes and man-power and at the optimum cost. Merchandiser acts as the very important person to the organization for getting the new orders by completing the previous or the obtained order in the right manner just according to the buyer specifications and therefore manages the company. Merchants job starts from understanding the tech-pack, developing the sample (development sample), getting approved, inculcating the changes in the product pointed by the buyer, procuring the essentials for the order and finally executing the order till the date of shipment. Along with all these, a total costing of the garment including the fabric, trims, cut and make, wash, commission of the agent is prepared. The merchandising department at Arvind Denim Exports Division is divided major into two teams: USA( GAP, MARKS & SPENCERS, BROOKE BROTHERS, etc) UK ( VANITY FAIR, NEXT, BENSHERMAN, etc)

The two teams are headed by their team leaders. Each team is given the responsibility of generating the orders for the organization which are feasible for the production.

Various documents like: production file/tech-pack, trim card, Lab Testing report, Cost sheets and order tracking sheets are maintained by the merchandising department.


garment. Main shell fabric Secondary shell fabric (as sometimes used in pocket facing and Lining Interlining

patch pocket)

Fabric consumption is the important factor while evaluating the cost of the

Zipper Rivets Shank

Labels (wash care, style description, size label, etc) Thread

4) CUT AND MAKE 5) WASHING COST 6) AGENTS COMISSION. 7) PACKAGING MATERIAL 8) VALUE ADDITION: Either in terms of printing, embroidery involved.


Marketing team gets order

Merchants receives Tech-Pack consisting of GSS( Graded Specs Sheets) and all details of style ,trims and construction details.

Tech-Pack sent to the sampling Dept. for development of proto.

Development sample

Changes commented


Buyer Approval YES

Patterns developed.

Source Fabric of similar kind either from AML or Raymonds.and trims from other suppliers Any change suggested by the buyer is inculcated & sent for approval again

Fit sample developed.

Wash sample developed.

Fabric consumption along with the mini marker taken from CAD

Cost Calculation for Cut Make, Washing, Embroidery etc.

Get the sample approved and cut and make cost approved From buyer

Confirming the PO and receiving it. Conducting the fabric testing quoted by the buyer.

Developing Yellow seal

Developing Green seal

Taper prepared

Size-set developed

Approval from the buyer for the size-set.

PPC meeting conducted.

Pilot Run of 150-200 pcs done

Bulk production starts.

Getting the TOP- top of production sample approved.

Follow up as per Ex-factory date.

Sending the final shipping goods detail

Getting the inspection certificate

Is order Rejected


Goods sent to the ware house.

NO Goods shipped.

OCR Order Completion Report made.


The designer team of Arvind Export division offers sincere full design service from studying forecast, developing mood boards to final washed pair of jean. The team travels to various denim shows held to be ahead of trends in term of design. The designs are made keeping in mind the factors like cost and style desirable for the bulk production. The designers works in two ways: Firstly by showcasing their own developed collection or samples to the buyer. Other by sending different designs in the pdf file format to the buyers against their demands.

PATTERN MAKING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Head Pattern development pattern production Executive sampling

Operations head Sampling manager Coordinator Quality auditor Sampling supervisor Asst supervisor technical manager pattern master pattern master pattern checker pattern trimmer Cad operator Asst cad operator Flow chart Marketing / merchandising team Indent input Pattern

Cutting Sewing Quality checking Button hole /bar tack Trimming Washing After wash trimming Buttoning Ironing Quality checking Dispatch to merchant Marker making flow chart

Receive Production Order & Fabric Inspection report from Fabric Stores

Check Fabric Inspection Report, Width, CSV, Shrinkage Etc Group Fabric Codes W.r.t Width, CSV, Shrinkage

In Case Of 100% zonal prepare 4, 8-way marker Manual Ratio planning W.r.t Inseam wise & Fabric Availability
Issue CAD to Cutting Section

Marker making adding Shrinkage % with Standard Pattern size Calculate Average Consumption / garment (Inseam wise) Print Out Of CAD Markers

Issue CAD to Cutting Section

The Gerber software is used for making the patterns. The program from Gerber which is used to create, grade and moderate the pattern is Accumark. But the Gerber is used for only pattern related things for the bulk. For sampling and costing related aspects Astro software is used. This software I used over Gerber because it creates better base patterns than Gerber. But not used for bulk because it do not have good grading options as in Gerber. They also have a digitizer but it is not used as often as they make all the patterns on CAD. The digitizer is used only when there is hurry and the patterns are made manually and then they are digitized using the digitizer. The advantages that Gerber software has over other softwares are: More options for creating patterns than any other software. This also has more options and more flexible options for grading patterns. Most buyers use Gerber, so if the pattern is send by the buyer so there wont be any problem for the pattern making department to do any changes in the pattern if they have the same software.

Only problem with Gerber is that it is not good at curves.

Man power: 1 head pattern master 4 junior pattern masters 1 grader 1 coordinator 4 checkers

SAMPLING DEPARTMENT Sampling is the process of manufacturing the small number of garments similar to the specifications given by the buyer and getting it approved from the buyer for the bulk production. This department holds the responsibility for developing the samples again to check the corrections or the alterations commented by the buyer before starting with the bulk production. The quality of the sample pieces in terms of correct pattern development, quality sewing and finishing is directly linked to the buyer approval. The fabric consumption for the order is also calculated at the initial stage of sample development. There is no involvement of the PPC department in the sample development. Its just the merchant who coordinates with the sampling department for the development of the sample. He is the one responsible right from the issuing of the fabric from store to the trims, etc. Normally the four to five copies of a sample are prepared ,one for buyer reference and other for in- house record. Various samples developed at sampling department. These are discussed below: 1. Development sample This sample is the first sample prepared on any substitute fabric and with substitute trims whatever is available in in-house. This is to check that whether the merchant understands what the buyer requires, has he understood the tech pack well. After being sent to buyer for approval, the basic construction of garment like stitch type, seam type, style of the garment are checked against the requirement. If the development sample is approved by the buyer then the next sample is prepared called the fit sample.

2. Fit sample This sample made on original fabric or nearest in which the buyer demands. This sample is made to check the fit of the garment. This sample is made in any one size which the buyer demands. The trims look is not considered so vital at this stage, so the production house is given the liberty to use any sort of trims. It is usually the mid size of the range of sizes the order has come into. Once the buyer approves the basic fit of the garment, its goes to next sample else the fit sample is prepared again and sent for the buyer approval. 3. Wash sample This sampling stage comes into picture when the earlier stages of development and fit have been given the approval by the buyer. During the development of this sample the production house is considered to be inclined only towards producing the replica of the image in terms of washes as a wash standard rather than construction. During the fit and wash samples approval, the production house start carrying the GPT-Garment processing test involving crocking, seam strength, home laundry, etc.and taper report is prepared after wash sample approval. 4. Yellow seal This sample is prepared in the exact fabric which the buyer wants. Till this time the bulk fabric or at least the swatches of the fabric are received by the factory along with the trims and accessories which the buyer wants. This sample is again sent to the buyer for the approval. Now the buyer checks the sample against the specs he demands. 5. Green seal The buyer can ask any number of garments during this sample development. The green seal aims to achieve at all the parameters: Wash


Specs Trims

This is the final sample which the buyer approves before the bulk production The overall look of the garment can be observed in this sample. 6. Size set This sample is equivalent to the pre-production sample. In this sample all the sizes or all the jump sizes are prepared by the sampling. This is specified by the buyer that which type of size set he wants. This is also done in the actual fabric and everything.


Merchant issues DGD ie teck- pack to sampling

Development sample

Buyer approval YES Patterns developed.


Changes commented

Fabric consumption calculated

NO Fit sample (1 size)

Buyer approval

Changes commented


Wash sample

GPT Prepared

Pattern sealed with wash + fit sample

Patterns digitalized and graded using CAD. Taper report generated by the Quality department Yellow seal

Green seal

Size set done

PPC DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Planning head Central planner (all factories) factory execution Planning data entry Scheduler Fabric executive Trims executive

(Factory planner) Responsibilities Central Planner MANAGER To get the order details from respective merchants in the form of ODS Order confirmation to the merchants w.r.t. to durability and delivery Sending tentative Production Plan to the merchants Capacity Analysis for all the factories To forward the monthly plan to the concerned Entering the order details into Fast React Closing the orders in Fast react Monitoring the orders and highlighting the delays Monitoring of outsourced orders

Factory Planners EXECUTIVES

Getting monthly capacity bookings from Central Planner Checking on the Fabric and trims availability Get the Operation Bulletin and Thread consumption chart from IED Making the Line Plan for respective factories Chasing the merchants for PCDs, Production Files and DC POs Giving production plan to all the departments Alert the concerned on delays happening Order Allocation in Orapps

Factory Execution Getting fortnightly plan from the Factory Planners Conducting the PP Meeting for new styles To check the availability of sewing and finishing trims Follow-up on the Size-sets and pattern correction Ensuring the Bulk Cutting as per the PCDs planned Releasing Order Priority List to Cutting, Sewing, Washing, and Finishing Monitoring Production and highlighting the daily variance Sending Production Reports to Central Planning Monitoring the WIPs across each of the departments Follow-up on the Pilots/Shade Bands and TOPs Attending to Fabric and Trims issues in the factory Follow-up from Fabric issue to cutting section till shipment of the goods from respective departments Decision on re-cutting an orders and ensuring to get the Re-cut Approval Form Planning data entry

Updating of Fast react and sending it to the concerned on daily basis Collection and Distribution of Production Files along with TRIMS CARDS Cross check the availability of DC POs and alert the merchant Collection of Samples, Wash Standard, etc. from merchants and handing it over to QA team Sending the GAP Production Status in GAP format to the merchants Order termination in Orapps Sending Weekly OTIF reports to MIS

Trims Executive Getting the monthly production plan from Central Planner Chasing the merchants, purchase, and stores for trims as per PCDs Alerting the merchants, execution and production team on non-availability of specific trims Cross checking on the trims stock available for any order decided to be recut Fabric Executive Getting the fabric dispatch details from merchants and follow-up on the same To chase the fabric stores for head heads to be moved to Lab To chase the merchant for wash standards To follow-up with Lab to get the TAPER report To get the required consumption details from cutting/merchant and calculate the fabric requirement To allocate fabric rolls against an order in Orapps To forward TAPER report to respective cutting departments and Sampling

To inform the merchant on any rejected fabric rolls and ask for replacement To work and advs the fabric availability details for VF at least 4 weeks in advance based on MPP

Flow chart Receipt of ODS from the merchant

Yes Block Capacity in Fast react Advs order confirmation to the merchants & PCD to execution

Open Capacity Available No Review options, discuss with head of operations If no

Check with IED for SAM, no of m/c's & Order allocation to feasibility Ftys & line planning Monitor plans for variances Rework deliveries/PCD based on actual, advice merchants

Inform Marketing/Merchandising Circulation of Production Plan

Review capacities based on actual/ work on options to feed the lines

Production Plan in Fast react

No Alert Planning

Is PCD of planned orders being met w.r.t. fabric, trims & approval dates?

Yes Is the fabric or head ends, wash standard, Master Fabric Swatch is inYes Arrange for shrinkage bits and shade blankets; get the same washed as per the standard and get the TAPER Report from LAB No Get the inputs from the merchant/cutting

Fabric Roll Allocation in Orapps Initiate & expedite Size set

Forward TAPER Report to Sampling and cutting

Prioritize for PP Meeting

Advise dates to Quality

Execution of Production plan - Stores issue, cut, stitch, wash, finishing & QA

Is there any requirement of TOPs/Sample s from the merchant? No Monitor production status


Prioritize and alert the concerned department

Variances against plan for milestone No Shipments on time/ planned delays


Alert the concerned departments & advise options

Unplanned Delayed Shipments

Update reports

Generate OCR

The PPC (Pre Production and Control) department is divided into 2 parts: Pre production


Pre production: The pre-production department is responsible for: Planning of orders in terms of capacity of the various departments. Giving the delivery dates in accordance to the committed dates. Execution of orders.

Software used for the planning of the capacities is Fast React. This software maps the production in terms of the capacity of the departments. This mainly deals with the line balancing according to the fed data in the software. There are mainly 2 people working on this thing, one planner and one data enterer. No allocation is done during the first month; just the data entry is done using the various sources of data. From second month onwards the target are set using the efficiencies of the given lines. On an average 45 people are there in a single line. All lines are set according to the garment but 3-4 lines are kept flexible so that any kind of style change can be easily dealt with. The layout or sequence of machines keeps on changing according to the orders and the style. This layout is decided by the Industrial Engineering department but the general outline is given by the PPC department. The work of this department starts with the order booking and the confirmation of the order by the merchant. Once the order is confirm, it is put on the planning board and a time and action path, i.e., the critical path is devised. In this path, the fabric flow date, the sewing trim date, finishing material in-house date, garment approval date, etc is being finalized. They also take care of the sampling and pilot run and size set of a particular order. They check whether everything is going up to the mark an on time. Production:

The production part is responsible for: Giving internal deadlines to he different departments for the execution of the order. They tell the particular departments that by what date that department has to pass on the order to the next department. Monitors status of order on floor according to the plan and checks for any delays and if any delays are there then the respective departments are alert and this procedure is done on a day to day basis. PPC department also takes care of the WIP of the various departments. The PPC department also has to monitor the various out-sourcing units. The main parameters to be checked by the PPC department while keeping a check on the out-sourcing unit are: The approved wash standard need to be send to the unit as early as possible or before the production starts there so that no problem is there at the end. Should keep a check that the same process is being used by the other unit as the main office so that there are no discrepancies in the output of the main office and the out-sourcing unit. Should monitor the output of the unit very carefully and promptly as if the output is late from that unit then there is no way the delivery date can be achieved The capacity planning is based on various factors here. These are number of machines, average SAM of garment, machine utilization of factory, absenteeism and efficiency of line. Basic capacity monitoring is done by this department. They generate a continuous report for the coming weeks capacity and order booking. They work out the plan of order and confirm the date of delivery based on actual SAM of garment. They also give the input target dates of the in flow of fabric, trims, etc for a particular order.

Along with the delivery date, they also work out the ex-India date which is the date at which the order will leave India. And also the ex-factory date, which I usually 1 week ahead of ex-India date. But they usually keep some buffer date at every step so that if there is any delay at any point of time there is a buffer kept to cope up with that delay. After all this the order comes to the execution team. This tem keeps on checking the order placement and every input date. And keep a check that any date does not slide away otherwise the order delivery date will be missed. This team makes sure that everything flows properly in the factory and all orders are on there way to execution. The main production part is tricky one. The sewing plan is done based on the approval sample from the buyer. This sewing plan is done every month. And now they track back the other plans, like the cut plan, loading plan, wash plan, finish and pack plan. A team for washing tracking is different. In washing the targets are not given in term of dates but in terms of number of garments per day. While working on Fast React there are build-up curves or popularly called the learning curves. These means a particular line requires a particular amount of time to stabilize on a particular style. This tie is shown up in these curves that in how much time how mush efficiency will be achieved and the order will get over in how many days. This software does no miracles; it just interprets the data filled by the user into useful information. For example for an easy style usually 1 day is taken to stabilize whereas for tough or complicated styles, even 7-10 days are taken. This all depends on the number of operations in the style and the SAM of garment. For styles like carpenter shorts, the learning curve is planned to be 8 days for the first time. But as the style is a usual one and is a repeat order so it does not take that much time every time.

There are flexible lines which are trained to do every style. In these lines there are 60 machines to cope up with any style change.












Fast react This is a supply chain and planning software which can be used in textile, garment and footwear industry. It contains an Order Detail Sheet (ODS) in which all the details of the order are mentioned. This sheet is developed by the merchandiser. The projection of this order is done through Fast react. There are two ways of taking an order: Importing through Orapps Manual entering the details

The length of the strip on the planning board determines the number of days the order will take to finish. There are different colors for the strips which signify the on-time orders, late orders and very late orders. Data is filled in fast react according to which it does the planning. Example, usually 1000 pieces per day production is taken considering all allowances. But ideally it should be 1200 pieces per day. The efficiency of the line is kept at 85% for non stretch fabric and 80% for stretch fabric. There is strip efficiency also along with line efficiency. This planning is done one month ahead of the dates. We can easily generate any number of reports from this software. Records Maintained in the Department (PPC) Production Files: Keeping Records of all relevant details pertaining to an Order viz, Order Detail Sheet, Specification Sheet (Before wash / After wash), Tech Pack, Trim Cards etc for all Orders. Samples Movement Register: Keeping Records of the movement of Original Samples in and Out of Dept. PP Meeting Register: Keeping Records of Minutes of PP Meeting (Style wise / Buyer wise) Daily Production Report: Keeping Cutting, Sewing, Washing, and Finishing & Shipment Reports on daily basis. Monthly Sewing Report: Keeping a Record of Style wise Daily Production on Monthly Report. Taper Report: Keeping Records of Shrinkage & Shade for each Fabric Sort. Order Completion Report: Keeping OCRs for all the Orders completed and shipped out.


Receipt of Authorized indents

Entries of indents in the indent register

Scrutiny of indents with respect to item description, qty, urgency, stock etc

Selection of few suppliers based on nomination, past Performance, etc

Existing Suppliers

New Suppliers

Nominated suppliers

Purchase Enquiry is being sent to selected suppliers with all details Receipt of PIs /Quotations from suppliers Comparison of PIs/ quotes and sample approval Negotiation based on rate, Finalization of vendor quality and delivery based on negotiation

Preparation of Po on approved supplier Po type PG (Local non capital) capital)

Po type PM (import capital)

Po type PI(import non capital)

Po type PC (Local capital)

Po approval from Authorized Signatory

Selection of another Vendor

Po Value above 5000 Signed by GM

Order placement via Fax / phone/email/hand

Po Value below 5000 Signed by HOD

Follow-up with supplier based on delivery schedule

Follow-up for replacement

Taking confirmation from stores on delivery Confirmation on quality approval

use inhouse Approved goods is inwarded by stores Rejected goods will be sent back for replacement Second rejection

Responsibilities Purchase Manager 1. Responsible for the entire activities of purchase dept 2. Coordinating with Purchase Officers for arranging more quotation and good rates 3. Evaluation of QACs and negotiations 4. Approval of purchase orders for value less than Rs.5000/5. Certifying of purchase orders above Rs.5000/- before approval from Head of Operations 6. Handling of capital purchase analysis, negotiations etc 7. Finding of new vendors and product for the purpose of cost reduction. 8. Review of pending reports (indents pending and po pending) 9. Negotiation of rates based on volume and consumption 10. Follow up on crucial items with supplier 11. Visiting of suppliers place for evaluation 12. Find solution to ensure that production is not getting affected because of deliveries. 13. Updating on high value orders, large quantities to Head Of Operations 14. Co-ordinate with Accounts Dept on suppliers payment. 15. Reviewed with major suppliers periodically on order value, volume, technical support and delivery issues 16. Finalization of work order terms & conditions on the same. 17. Co-ordination with other dept 18. Updating on market development to the connected department.

Purchase Officer (4) Responsible for sourcing of 1. Local trims and packing material 2. General stationeries 3. Printed stationeries.

1. Scrutiny of respective indents w.r.t item description , quantity, urgency, stock etc 2. Selection of suppliers based on price, quality, delivery schedule, past performance. 3. Generating and releasing purchase enquiry to all competitive vendors 4. Follow up for quotations/PIs 5. Arrangements of samples for approval. 6. Analysis and making comparison based on quotations, pis etc 7. Negotiation with suppliers on rates and other terms 8. Approving the rates by senior authority 9. Preparation and verification of P.O. 10. Getting necessary approvals and releasing of purchase order. 11. Confirming the delivery and quality with stores 12. Arrangements for replacement of rejections if any 13. Co-coordinating with Accounts for supplier payments. 14. going to suppliers places for urgent deliveries and other vendors whenever required Responsible for sourcing of 1. Machineries spares 2. Electrical 3. Hardware 4. Chemical 5. Consumables 1 Scrutiny of respective indents w.r.t item description, quantity, urgency, stock etc Purchase Officer 2.

2. Selection of suppliers based on price, quality, delivery schedule, past performance. 3. Generating and releasing purchase enquiry to all competitive vendors 4. Follow up for quotations/PI 5. Arrangements of samples for approval. 6. Analysis and making comparison based on quotations, pis etc 7. Negotiation with suppliers on rates and other terms 8. Approving the rates by senior authority 9. Praparation and verification of PO 10 getting necessary approvals and releasing of purchase order. 11. Confirming the delivery and quality with stores 12. Arrangements for replacement of rejections if any 13. Coordinating with Accounts for supplier payments. 14 going to suppliers places for urgent deliveries and other vendors whenever required Responsible for sourcing of 1. Import Trims 2. Import Capital Item. 1 Scrutiny of respective indents w.r.t item description, quantity, urgency, stock etc 2. Selection of suppliers based on price, quality, delivery schedule, past performance. 3. Generating and releasing purchase enquiry to all competitive vendors 4. Follow up for quotations/PI 5. Arrangements of samples for approval. 6. Analysis and making comparison based on quotations, pis etc 7. Negotiation with suppliers on rates and other terms Purchase Officer.3

8. Approving the rates by senior authority 9. Praparation and verification of PO 10 getting necessary approvals and releasing of purchase order. 11. Ensuring timely in-house of ordered items 12. Confirming the delivery and quality with stores 13. Arrangements for replacement of rejections if any 14. Coordinating with Accounts for supplier payments. Responsible for 1. Follow up with suppliers for delivery based on delivery 2.Scruitiny of purchase order before approval 3.Verification of indent pending report and follow up on order placement 4.Sending enquiry and calling quotes for capital purchase 5.Preparation of QACs for capital items 6.Generation of monthly reports based on item and suppliers 1. Receipt and entry of indents in the indent register. 2. Preparation of QACs 3. Preparation of Purchase orders 4. Distribution of purchase orders to suppliers and stores 5. Filing of Purchase orders & QACs in the respective files 6. Preparation of work orders 7. Distribution of work orders to Suppliers & Accounts 8. Generation of Pending indent reports and Pending po report. Date Entry Operator.(1& 2) Purchase Officer.4

. Runners 1. Arrangement of samples by going to market 2. Handcarrying of urgent delivery Department structure Manager Officer Assistant officer Data entry operator Runners

Purchase department is the department which gets all the indents from the various departments which are approved by the GM operations or marketing heads. Based on these indents the purchase department makes purchases. There can be two types of indents: Non garment indents Garment related requisitions

The non garment indents are related to the non raw material indents like needles, hardware, etc. The garment related indents comprise of whatever related to garments.

The approval of GM operations and marketing heads is enough for small items but for capital items which involve capital purchase, the approval need to be taken from the CEO. These comprise of all machineries of high value and high price electrical woks. But for general consumer items indents need to be raised by stores itself. The indents are raised for fabric and trims, etc for which the buying is done mainly from the buyer nominated supplier. In this case the factory cant earn enough profit so it tries to do parallel development of raw material so that later on the order can be manufactured in-house. Or else discounts can be taken from the buyer nominated supplier also which the buyer does not know. The things which are kept in mind while placing an order are quality, delivery and price. Indents received Enquiry generated (quantity etc) Sent enquiry to market (to certain people only when garment) Gets quotation Check for price, delivery schedules, etc. Choose among the different Make a call to whom to place the order

The department comprises of 9 people. 1 purchase manager Purchase executive Purchase officer Data interpreters Runner

Records like purchase indents, purchase orders, Performa invoices, quotations, comparisons between rates. 2 copies of each purchase indents and purchase orders are maintained. FABRIC STORE Random inspection according to the 4 point system is done. In this inspection around 10% of the rolls are being inspected. The quantity inspected also depends on the buyer sometimes and on the result of the first random inspection. If in case the result of the random inspection come more than the normal value then the amount of fabric inspected is more to tally the results. For a single order, single sort number is given but many lots are there within that sort number. In these lots, a number of rolls come. Fabric sample received from mill Lorry receipt received Security check the number of rolls Unloading takes place in presence of security Receipt of received rolls send to supplier Sample sent for buyer approval Bulk rolls received after buyer approval Bits sent to lab for shade and shrinkage tests PPC allocates passed rolls and makes taper report Fabric requisition from cutting department Fabric issue to cutting department

For base shell fabric all rolls are given roll number but for pocketing fabric there is only item code given to the rolls according to the buyers and not the rolls. Any roll can be used for any order of a particular buyer. The fabric comes in three shades: S1, S2 and S3

This fabric comes from Arvind Mills, Raymonds and Mafatlal.

Receipt of Goods Received from Supplier Store the Fabric Rolls in an UN Inspected Area Send For Design Approval 100% Fabric Inspection of Rolls Center to Selvedge Shade Variation Checking Send Fabric Sample for Lab Test for Fabric Particulars Send Fabric for Tearing Strength & Shrinkage Test Generat e FRA Quantity with Excess Consumption Re- GRN RTS (Return To Supplier)

Generate FDR

Is There Any Quantity error

GRN (Goods Receive Note)

Goods Are Stacked In Inspected Area with Identification Tags

Planned W.O Copy

Receive Daily Planned Copy Stock Check Based On Work Order

Shrinkage % and W.O Given To CAD Receive Marker Length Generate Production Control Sheet

Issue Fabric to Cutting Based On Planning

Fabric Posting

Body / Pocketing /Sample Fabric Receipt Gate entry Receiving material along with P.O/P.R in inward area

Check the documents (D.C /Invoice /P.O) with respect to the items received Qty check Inform purchase dept Taking Necessary action Preparing G.T.K & M.R Preparing Swatch card for approval Approved Informing Q.A. for checking Approve d Preparing Approved M.R Forward bills to accounts Allocating material in Location


Prepare Rejected M.R along with Gate pass Inform Purchase Dept to sent back the Material Filling duplicate copies in concerned files










TRAINEE OFFICER HELPER S Responsibilities 1) Store manager -


- Overall responsibility of goods receipt, storage & issue - ordering non-garmenting stock items 2) Stores officer - Receiving Information from concerned regarding Material Arrival - Receiving material in inward area with all the documents - Physical verification of material and if found any shortage inform concerned for action - Make G.T.K & M.R - Inform Merchants and Q.A. for Inspection - Arranging Material for the inspection - If the Fabric Approved made Approved M.R. or else Make rejected M.R. along with G.P - Inform PPC & merchants about rejection - Maintaining Documents

- Updating all the entries in Oraps - Issuing material according to the Issue slip - Updating in system and register - Supervise workers 3) Trainee officer - assist stores officer on physical checking/ verification of goods on receipt & issues - System entry in Orapps 4) Helpers-trim card making & approval by merchant & quality - Inwards unloading & quantity verification of dc - handing over the goods to issues, after inspection approval, else ready rejected goods for return The trims department is used to keep the trims like threads, buttons, rivets, cartons, zippers, labels, etc. OBJECTIVE : 1. 2. 3. Ensure no short supply of trims before bulk production Approval of trims to be sought before bulk production. Issues of trims to sewing with 2 hours of rcpt of the requisition, as

per master trim card. The trims are mainly classified here in two categories: 1. 2. sewing trims packing trims

Major suppliers of thread are Madura and Vardhman. Trims inward Quantity check by the trims department people

Quality check by the quality department person Trim card prepared and sent to the merchant for approval After approval item code given to the different items Trims kept in buyer wise allocated racks Request from respective department Trims issue

Usually 5% extra trims are ordered at the time of ordering. The quality check done by the quality person is done random at around 5% of the total trims received. Man power: 1 manager 3 officers 4 helpers 4 receiving department 3 issuing department 1 data entry operator Records : 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. GRN file Delivery challan Requisition file Inward Register Work Order Trims Rejection Advise Trims Inspection Report Master Trim File, bill of material Material Return Note Correspondence file

CUTTING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Factory manager Cutting manager Cutting officer Trainee cutting production officer cutters cad officer

Responsible for spreading & cutting production Officer cutting Officer cad Responsible for cad marker making as per cut plan Responsible for cut plan Responsible for fabric receiving Responsible for cut bundle generation

Officer production Responsible for spreading & cutting production

Overall Flow chart Purchase order receiving Fabric request & receive Cut plan Marker making Spreading Inspection Cutting Numbering Sorting Bundling Cut panel auditing Panel storage

Detailed flow chartReceive Fabric From stores

Receive Size wise ratio & Marker length from CAD

Lay card Plan Generate Lay card & Lay slip

Inform and return to CAD


Marker Verification W.r.t P.O sheet


Laying Straight knife Cut

Ready cut of Panel Manual Panel Numbering Flatbed Panel Fusing By Microdot Re-cut
Yes Reject

Block cut of Small Parts Ready Cut Of Small Parts Using Band Knife Ready Cut Parts are Stickered

100% Panel Inspection


Is Embroidery Required?




Fusing Type for Parts


Re-Bundling Of Panel & Parts, Maximum Bundle Size Up to 20 pcs, Attach Trolley Card Put all bundled parts in a poly bag with necessary accessories and trims

Put All Bundled Parts in a Issue cut pieces to batch Polybag with necessary Accessories & Trims Output per day 8000 garments Man power 80-82 people Capacity 10000 garments per day Steps in detail: The work of this department starts when they receive the tech pack Issue Cut Pieces To Batch

from the PPC department for a particular style. In this file all the details about the fabric, style, trims, etc is given. Then they receive the loading plan for that particular style for the 10 The PPC makes the taper report after the bulk fabric is received. different stitching lines from the PPC department. This taper report consists of the rolls allocated for a particular style which are allocated and which are to be cut for a particular style. Cut planning done by the cutting department. Pattern making for bulk.


Decision making for the number of plies, height of lay, number of CAD department do the marker making using Gerber Garment After the marker making, all markers are checked by the QA for any Lay sheet prepared by the supervisor. It consists of the sizes being

notches, seams, etc done in Pre Production Meeting. Technologys marker making software. problems. cut in the lay, the lay length; roll numbers being use, the roll length utilized, Laying of the rolls is done and QA comes and checks the lay The plotted marker is kept on the lays and the metal clamps are put Cutting done using straight knife cutters. The QA comes and checks for the variation in cutting and checks

on them to stabilize the fabric lays and the marker on them.

the variations against the tolerances given by the buyer. Usually the tolerance is 1/8 and variation from 1/16 to 1/8 can be tolerated. After everything the pieces go to numbering process. Here a unique number is given to avoid shade variation. The ticket number consists of 8 digits: 2 for buyer, 2 for style number, 2 for part number and last 2 for ply number. roll. Example: roll 1 20 plies Roll 2 15 plies Roll 3 25 plies Roll 4 25 plies So bundling will be done, 25 pieces of roll 4, then 25 pieces from roll 3, then 15 pieces from roll 2 and at last 20 pieces from roll 1. The pieces go for computer entry. Then bundling is done according to the number of plies from each

For special buyer, panel checking is also done here otherwise this Bundles put in bag and loaded Send to stitching

is not required.

Number of plies as per fabric: Poplin 150 pies Thin denim (<14 oz) 120-130 plies Thick denim (>14 oz) 70-80 plies For auto cutter 50-60 plies Relaxation For non stretch fabric 2 hours For stretch fabric 12 hours For relaxation make small layers of 5-6 m in denims but in shirts and wovens layers of 7-8 m can be made. The rolls are converted into bale form here for relaxation and after relaxation these bales are transferred into lays. The relaxation type can be only bale, only lay or both bale and lay. This relaxation type depends on the type of fabric mainly. But usually here the bale type relaxation is done. For different shrinkages, different groups are made. Example: Group 1 Group 2 1 * 1 2 * 1 2 * 2.5 2 * 2

The cutting department here is not at all concerned with the patterns, it is only concerned with the cutting, patterns come fro a different CAD department which makes patterns or from the buyer. The WIP of the cutting room is maintained at 18000 to 20000 pieces. This is equal to usually 2 to 3 days of loading. No-fray sprays are used to avoid slippages and to prevent unraveling of fabric. Fast drying Reduces seal failure Avoid overhead stitching Prevents thread slippages Increases productivity Reduces downtime

Fusing is used at waist band and for GAP non woven and for VF woven fusing are being used. 30-40 GSM fusing in case of woven fusing and non woven fusing in meters. Fusing Temperature - 165-175C Pressure 3 kg weight Time -12 seconds Test of the calibrating of the machine using the thermal strip is done usually twice a day. The strip turns blackish till the point the temperature is there. Earlier woven fusing was used but now non woven are used. Infrastructure of department:

Machine Straight knife machine Band knife

Make Eastman Eastman

Model number Class 627 EC-900N SEW-685 225, 2253 model

Number 8 1 4 1 -

machine End cutter machine Fusing machine Hashima Ticketing machine Blitz textile

Table 4 air floatation tables. Defects in department Overlapping Notches missing Plotter jump Cutter must Direction out

EMBROIDERY DEPARTMENT Sampling machine 1 Amaya 16 needles 16 colors 1 head 1 bobbin Thread for embroidery comes from Madura Coats. Thread with ticket number 120 is used for embroidery here. This is in case silk, rayon or Lurex thread. If the thread used is of polyester then the ticket number used is of 50 ticket number and 3 plies. In denim usually 3 ply, 50 ticket number, 60 Tex number and 1919 color number thread is used. The paper used for embroidery is white non woven 40 GSM interlining. The main machine used for bulk production is of Sunstar the Korea based company. It is of 9 needles and 18 heads. It means that 9 color threads can be used at a time and 18 pieces can be produced at a time. Stitches per inch - 300 stitches. Capacity 2000 pieces per day Stitches per day 180000 stitches 2 operators trimming 4 operators machine 1 manager Marks on the fabric for the embroidery start and end are done by the cutting section.

This is a 16 hours working department. 1 shift 8 hours 2 shift 4 hours overtime At a time 50 needles are issued at a time from the maintenance time. The needle size used for embroidery vary from 9, 11, 12 and 14 size. Usually 5-10 needles break every day.

SEWING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Factory manager Asst manager-prod Floor in charge Supervisor Asst supervisor Flow chart Loading from cutting Back section Inline inspection Front section Inline inspection Assembly section Trimming End line inspection

Auditing Dispatch to washing Number of lines 10 Number of running lines 9 Number of lines under training 1 Manpower per line 46 approximately Allowance 30% WIP set not according to any set rule; its just kept as 1.5 of the daily target. Example if the target output of the day is 1000 pieces, so 1500 pieces will be loaded in the line. So 1500 is the WIP of the line. No floaters are kept for the handling of absenteeism. If absenteeism is there then people from other lines are taken or people from the training line are taken. Wage system is based on the grades of the operators. Grade A+ A B+ B C Old salary 3200 3000 2800 2650 2500 New salary 3700 3500 3200 3000 2800 Cut off efficiencies >120% >75% and <120% >70% and <75% >65% and <70% <65%

List of sewing machines


QUANTITY 15 55 6 32


20 5 30 20 21 69 16 37 10 8 4 10 6 5 4 8 22 179 30 24 636


Number 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2


Machine Model PLK E - 1010V3L PLK E - 1010V3L PLK E - 1010V3L PLK E - 1010V3L 006V 007V 3650EV6 3650 EV6 3650EV6


2 1 2 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 5 2 2 1 6 1 1 5 5 1 5 2 6 5 1 5 5 1 5 5 5


LK 1900 650 EV CS KE-430C-02 650 EV CS 650 EV CS KE-430C-02 650 EV CS 3022 BH 3022 BH V 263900 V 263900 V 263900 V 263900 3022 BH PLK E- 1010DCS PLK E- 1010DCS PLK E- 1010DCS PLK E- 1010DCS PLK E- 1010DCS MH 380 2230 B1T TN - 875B-405 TN - 875B-405 2230 B1T TN - 875B-405 2250 PLC TN-872B-405 2250KB1T TN - 875B-405 2220CG-104M1T TN - 875B-405 2230 B1T 2250PLC 2250 PLC 2230 B1T 2250 PLC TN-872B-405 2220CG-104M1T 2250 PLC TN - 875B-405 2250PLC 2250 PLC TN - 875B-405 2250 PLC 2250 PLC 2250 PLC


7 6 6 6 2 2 1 2 1 2 2 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1


LH 3168 2220CG-104M1T 2220CG-104M1T 2220CG-104M1T TN-872B-405 TN-872B-405 DFB- 1404PMD WX 8842 - 1 W522A-01FX W 8142 WX 8842 - 1 W522A-01FX W522A-01FX W522A-01FX 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261 H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H 2261H FULL FULL PLK E- 1010VF PLK E- 1010VF PLK E- 1010VF PLK E- 1010VF RH-981-01 RH-981-01 RH-981-01 558-241391 B2000C B2000C B2000C B2000C B2000C 2650 EV6


1 2 4 4 2 2 4 2 3 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 4 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1


2650 EV6 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V61 MOR N.P M632 - 78 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V 61 MIT/CG 90 Z 610 V 61 MIT/CG 90 EX3216-A04 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V 61 MIT/CG 90 V61 MOR N.P EX3216-A04 M632 - 86-5X6 EX3216-A04 001V 001V 001V 001V 001V 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 2516 EV 2 S 7200A - 405 1280 M1TW S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW S 7200A - 405 1280 M1TW S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405


3 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 3 1 1 3 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 1 3 1 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 2 1 1 4


SL-777A -3 DDL - 5550-6 1280 M1TW 1280 M1TW S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 SL-777A -3 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 1280 M1TW S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW 1280M1TW KM 250A - 7S 1280M1TW 1280M1TW SL-777A -3 S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW SL-777A -3 S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW DDL - 5550-6 S 7200A - 405 S 7200A - 405 1280M1TW SL-777A -3 1280M1TW 9063 DB2-B201-413 1280M1TW DDL 8700-7 1280M1TW 1280M1TW 1280M1TW S 7200A - 405 DB2-B201-413 3022 CS 3022 CS FBX - 1104P


2 3 3 3 3 3 3


DLR 1508P 3022 LV 3022 LV 3022 LV 3022 LV 3022 LV 3022 LV


Operation manager

I.E. manager

I.E .

Basic roles and responsibility of i.e dept : 1. 2. 3. Preparing the Operation Bulletin Making the Lay outs with best Material movement / Flow Machinery arrangement for the Line

4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.

Batch setting Batch setting check list Line Balancing GSD method implementation Time study Motion study Costing Make suggestions on Constructions changes & Appearance Daily MIS Process / Method improvement Method auditing Performance evaluation of the Lines Operator Skill matrix Eliminating Non value added things along with Plant Manager Identify and reduce the Wastage % on Trims like Threads along

with the Plant Manager. The I.E. department plays an important role in costing. They are the one who are responsible to give the Cut to Make costing of the garment. This costing starts with the receiving of the tech pack from e merchant. The I.E. does the feasibility analysis called the Cut and make analysis of the tech pack. Break the number of operations involved and write down the operation breakdown. Gives the SMVs for each operation. Fix the SAM value for the garment as a whole. Give SAM to the merchant or sometimes give the C2M value to the merchant.

SMV = 100% GSD SAM is a certain %age of SMV

In Arvinds the target is 70% SMV. SAM = SMV/0.7 (in minutes) This value is given to merchant. The merchant knows the cost/SAM which is already specified by the factory. Garment cost = Cost per SAM * SAM This cost includes the profit margin of the factory also. Standard minute value: There will be a two SMVs provided for the style. A] Costing SMV B] Actual SMV Costing SMV: While arriving costing SMV we suppose to consider the automatic machines. The following table shows the availability of the automatic machineries. [In house + Ordered] 10 AUTO MACHINE PKT HEMMER PKT CREASER PKT SETTER DECO STITCH "J" STITCH PATCH LABEL ATTACH LOOP SETTER 5 Lines Lines X X

** From the above table we can understand that pocket creaser and setter is not available for 10 lines. And it is decided to not consider the Pocket setter and Pocket creaser for costing SMV i.e. irrespective of the styles. ** And it is decided to consider the SMV of Garment turning Machine since it is a necessary machine work in the line process, so it is considered as a operation SMV. ** And all the parts creasing SMV will be included in the costing. Hence, wherever possible all the above automatic machines shall be considered except for pocket creaser and pocket setter. As per this consideration, the costing smv is arrived and given to the merchandizing dept. Actual SMV: The actual SMV is arrived based on the actual Operation bulletin. Here the automatic pocket creaser and Pocket setter is considered wherever is possible only. If not the manual work is considered. Here the Manual SMV is added in the Operation bulletin as an information factor. But the batch Efficiency or Performance is calculated only on based on the Machine SMVs, as per actual SMV not the costing SMV. LUX readings for different departments: PLACE Fabric store Fabric inspection - center Fabric inspection - sides Roll storage Trims store At receiving Storage racks Cutting section Bale making Spreading READING (LUX) 350 250 20 130 25 20 900

Cutting Ticketing and bundling Fusing machine Band knife Embroidery Sewing section Shop floor entry SNLS machine at needle point SNLS machine at table SNLS machine at table near window Belt loop machine End-line inspection table Washing section Entrance Lot making Laser Scrapping Inspection (scrapping) Grinding hand grinding Grinding bench grinding PP spray Tacking Washing machine and dryers Washing machine and dryers below tube light After wash lot making Inspection table Sampling room Sampling room inspection table Finishing section Rework machine at needle point 1 tube light Rework machine at needle point 2 tube lights Ironing table Inspection table Packing section At tagging Folding new tube light Final inspection table Sampling section sewing Spreading

900 600 300 900 1000 170 300 400 470 260 680 300 260 230 500 900 110 300 440 150 30 400 120 900 300 600 320 590 590 700 500 800 1960-2000 1500

Cutting Machine needle point Machine at table Inspection table Dispatch section Storage Laboratory light box UV light TL light Spectralight Day light Cool white Horizon U3O Incandescent Tube lights Sewing floor 28 W Finishing 36 Defects in department Skip stitch at out seam, inseam and waist band Broken stitch at bottom hem Loose stitch at waist band Joint stitch at waist band Bar tack missing at back pocket Bar tack missing at belt loop Overlapping not even at bottom hem Up/down at waist band Loops placement uneven Side seam top stitch uneven Waist band finishing (attaching cross)

1500 1300 1500 1200 160 50 7 1800 570 400 1080 670 1130

Double stitch at bottom hem Bottom hem roping Yoke alignment at side seam Without key hole Fabric color change Broken stitch at loop Back pocket placement uneven Jump stitch at waist band Without label Jump stitch at inseam

WASHING DEPARTMENT Long back, the denims were looked upon as the garment meant for the people who used to work at workshops and mines. However, gradually with the passage of years it has come into recognition as the fashion statement for the youths of today. Nowadays, the appearance of the fabric is modified with the changing trend.

Washing unit at Arvind denim export division is well equipped with all the machines and facilities for most types of washing. The most critical part in denim production is all about achieving the desired color for the whole lot. The parameters like temperature, time, pressure and ingredients could drastically alter the look of the garment if not controlled. Washing mainly can be categorized into: 1. Wet Processing 2. Dry Processing Wet processes developed at Arvind denim exports division are given and discussed below: 1. Stone Wash 2. Stone Enzyme Wash 3. Enzyme Wash 4. Bleach 5. Tinting 6. Pigment Spray 7. Rinse Stone Wash During this washing process, porous pumice stones are in the double quantity to the weight of the fabric and can differ in time line to give different effects. Color fading is more apparent but less uniform. The fading of the color occur due to abrasion of stones with garments. The degree of color fading depends on the : Washing time, Stone ratio, Size of stones, Liquor ratio

Garment load

The stone wash gives the grain appearance on the fabric. BASIC STONE WASH PROCEDURE:

DESIZING DESIZING RINSE RINSE G G STONING STONING (Water, anti-back staining agent, stones) (Water, anti-back staining agent, stones)

RINSE-28C RINSE-28C (Anti back staining agent) (Anti back staining agent)


RINSE RINSE (Anti back staining agent) (Anti back staining agent)



Enzyme Wash Cellulose enzymes are natural proteins, which are used in denim garment processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone. Cellulose attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fiber, leaving the interior of the fiber as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface layer of fiber. The combination of the surface-to-surface abrasion of the garments and the garment to machine abrasion creates an overall stonewashed appearance. Enzymes are used so as to give a more even fading in the garment as enzyme attack the dye same at every position. This is an expensive method but gives result in short runs. Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained without severe damage to the surface of yarn. The fading here depends on The time Type of enzyme used The ratio of the garment.

Enzyme wash follows the same procedure as that of stone washing. BASIC ENZYME WASH PROCEDURE:



ENZYME (Water, anti-back staining agent, stones)

NEUTRALIZE NEUTRALIZE (Sodium Meta bi sulphide) (Sodium Meta bi sulphide)


RINSE-28C (Anti back staining agent)




Stone Enzyme Wash In this Enzyme is used in liaison with stone to give more rugged look and thus having advantage of both stone as well as enzyme. Here the look becomes more apparent along with being more uniform. Timeline again plays most important part. This type of wash also provide more option as we can change the ration of enzyme to stone and also the type of enzyme, size of stone, liquor ratio etc. This generally leads to faster results. BASIC STONE ENZYME WASH PROCEDURE:



STONE + ENZYME (Water, anti-back staining agent, stones)


NEUTRALIZE NEUTRALIZE (Sodium Meta bi sulphide) (Sodium Meta bi sulphide)

RINSE (Anti back staining agent)




Bleach A strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite is added during the washing with or without stone addition. Discoloration is usually more apparent depending on the strength of the bleach liquor quantity, temperature and treatment time. This is the process by which the color is intentionally lowered down. Here the garment fading depends on the time of exposure of the garment to the bleach and a prolonged exposure can hamper the quality of fabric. The overall depth is lowered using the bleach. These also depend on the liquor ratio and the time for which the lot is treated. BASIC BLEACH WASH PROCEDURE:



BLEACHING (Water, anti-back staining agent, hypochlorite)

NEUTRALIZE NEUTRALIZE (Sodium Meta-bi -sulphide) (Sodium Meta-bi -sulphide)

RINSE (Anti back staining agent)





Tinting Tinting is to provide the tint of the color over the other parent or the base color and thus providing a value addition and two tone effect on the garment. And when the fabric is bleached to get into the lighter shade and tinted by the other color over this is called as Overdyed . The telltale signs of a pair of jeans that have been tinted are that the pocket lining and labels are dyed as well as the jeans.this is mainly done using the direct dyes.



RINSE (anti-back staining)





Rinse The mildest, least severe garment wet processing finish during which the sizing, natural waxes, pectins and starches are removed from fabric. Only a minimal

color loss is achieved .Most simple and easy wash in which just a rinse is provided to bring out the effect of scraping and pp spray and just the slight difference from raw fabric obtained. RINSE WASH PROCEDURE


RINSE (anti-back staining)

RINSE (Anti-back staining)

SOFTENER Resin finish The synthetic polymers DMDHEU-Di-methyl di-hydroxy-ethylene urea have the excellent property to cross-link with the cotton structure which could thereby be used to set permanent wrinkles into a jean which could be retained after every wash. The combination of PE polyethylene emulsion with polymer imparts both stiffness and increases the tear strength of the fabric. The resin finish is applied mainly in metered addition method in which the ratio of chemicals is taken in respect to the ratio of the garments and is applied to the required area using a spray. After resin treatment the garment is exposed to the curing cycle involving pre-cure cycle of 20-25 minutes at 80 C and the post curing cycle of 160 C for 10 minutes .There are different types of moulds with the gaps engraved at pre curing stations which can impart different wrinkled look at the under knee and upper thigh portion often referred as Crinkling

Curing in an oven cause chemicals to merge with fibers to set color, stiffness, and make creases permanent. Resin will set color into the jean, so will reduce crocking where applied. But resin will effect the denims tear/tensile strength and make the fabric weaker and more brittle. Moreover, the lusture with grey appearance can be obtained over the garment when the resin is sprayed over the whole garment . The resin finish should never be given to the fabric comprising the lycra contents as lycra structure damages on high temprature. RESIN WASH PROCEDURE RESIN




Note: The resin treated garment should never be subjected under stone wash. CAPACITY OF THE WASING DEPARTMENT 12600 garments /day-dispatched after reworks ,rejects ,etc Washing capacity- 24000 garments/day.

FOR WASHING KEY ELEMENTS: WASHING IN GENRAL Load the garments in to the machine as per senior operators instruction.

Make an entry of lot into the register before start the machine. Start the machine. Take water level and Temperature as mentioned in the recipe and after that put chemical as per the recipe. Check the pcs on regular interval and showed it to supervisor or shift officer as mentioned in the recipe in abrasion cycle as well as bleach cycle.

After matching with the standard unload the garments from the machine and send it for hydro and drying.

BLEACHING Load the garments into the machine. Take a water level as mentioned in the recipe. Dilute the bleach liquor properly. Always add bleach liquor while machine is in running condition. After regular interval check the bleach as mentioned in the recipe. Keep shift officer or executive while bleaching is going on. After matching with the standard drain the bath and neutralize it properly. Neutralize bleach with the chemical which mentioned in the recipe. Unload the garments

TINTING Load the garments into the machine. Before start tinting match the base shade with stone matching or bleach matching standard.

Take the chemical, water level and temperature as mentioned in the recipe. Before putting the color into the machine dilute it properly with water. Before putting the color into the machine filter it with white cloth. While adding the color into the machine always adds it into the two or three installments. Add the tint while machine is in running condition. Check it at regular interval as mentioned in the recipe. When it matched with the standard unload it and give it for hydro and drying.

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: Dilute the bleach liquor or Tint properly. Always add bleach liquor or Tint while machine is in running condition. Before putting the color into the machine filter it with white cloth. While adding the color into the machine always adds it into the two or three installments. FOR HYDRO EXTRACTION: KEY ELEMENTS: Load the garments into the machine. Start the machine and run it until full water has not coming out from the pieces. Be careful while machine is running. After squeezing the water from the pieces stop the M/c and remove the pcs carefully and send it for drying. PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Hydro-extractor should be fully loaded and the Lid closed brfore starting the M/c.

The water has to be completely removed from the gmts before removing from the Hydro-extractor. The M/c RPM should not be extended than the Limit.

FOR DRYING: KEY ELEMENTS: Load the garments into the Tumble dryer. Start the Dryer and run it until the gmts are dried completely. After drying completely stop the Dryer and unload the gmts. 10pcs of each dry load has to be checked by the shift supervisor to confirm the wash as ok. Otherwise the same has to be reworked before going to different Dept. The Dried lot should then be sent either to Quality checking or Dry process Area depending upon the finalwash or semiwash. PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Dryer should not be over-loaded and the Lid closed brfore starting. The gmts should completely dried before removing from the Dryer. The Dryer Temp. should not be extended than the Limit. For Whites the drying temp. should not extend beyond 50deg.

DRY PROCESSING Now a days denim is preferred in its worn out look. The trend is towards producing the denim trousers which look used and worn out. This is achieved with the help of dry processing: Dry processing is a process in which the worn out look is achieved on denim fabric. There are several types of dry processing by which the desired effect is developed on fabric. GrindingProcess of chipping away the fabric to break the yarns and get small tears is know as Grinding. Most commonly used at bottom hem, waistband and pocket edges.The machines hand grinder and bench grinding are availale with the rotating carbide stone which when comes in contact with the garment shows the torn effect. The intensity of the tear depends upon the revolution of the roller and the time for which it is exposed to the roller.



ScrapingScraping the process in which denim fabric is rubbed with emery paper. (Emery paper no.220 finer -flat effect and no 180 coarser - blue lines visible.)

Scraping open ups the denim yarn and makes the fabric look lighter in shade and provide the rugged, worn look. This phenomenon takes place at the upper surface of fabric and removes the indigo present on surface partially. Hence, focusing the weave structure. The critical look is achieved when the amsler slubs are rubbed with the paper. This SCRAPING OVER THE MANNEQUIN horizontal and vertical directions. The type of sand paper to be used depends on the amount of rubbed look required. Scraping is also used to develop whiskers and chevrons. Arvind Denim Exports Division has recently imported the Robo Scraper machine E-5 Tonello from Scotland, which has eliminated use of many operators to two, one for operating the system and other to load and unload the garments.
It is equipped with 3 stations (mannequins), two in working positions and one in loading/unloading position. These are assembled on a rotating column that rotates by a cam device. This ensures absolute precision in the positioning of the manikins It has the nylon






bristle wheel embedding the sand paper strips which are responsible for the scraping. The limitation of this robo scraper over the conventional scraping is it cant deal with the scraping at the waistband and pocket facings. Also, due to the tremendous pressure of the brush over the garment, the stitches are destroyed. P.P SprayingDark purple crystalline compound, KMnO4, used as an oxidizing agent eats up the indigo.this property of PP is used to lend the different look to denim. PP when applied is a purplish color but gradually on drying it turns into yellow.

So , the garments are then neutralized using sodium meta-bi-sulphide which causes the areas where PP is applied to turn white. PP can be applied by spray to get overall blast pattern. P. P. can also be applied on pre-scraped or previously tagged/ heat set patterns to make their fold marks look more prominent. PP is normally used to give the bleach down effect in indigo. PP merges up with the indigo if the intensity of the spraying is kept less. PP SPRAY MANNEQUIN

Laser Arvind Denim Exports Division has the advance laser systems technology supported by LST Mark editor software. The system works with help of Photoshop software. The design to be printed is first converted into the gray scale. The intensity of the CO2 laser is adjusted. In printing process laser burns the indigo dye of the denim fabric. Design appears on the fabric surface due to the burning of the dye. In laser printing a special attention must be given towards the intensity of laser beam. Intensity of the beam is decided on the basis of fabric properties. Higher intensity may cause fabric damage Laser printing can be used to print endless designs. It can be used to produce whiskers and chevrons. It can also be used to print photographs. Laser printing can produce the same effect as that of scraping and pp spray. LASER DEVELOPING WHISKERS AND BRAND NAME

Whisker The lines that form on the lap and legs of jeans from continued wear. Most whiskers are applied at the laundry by hand using either a sanding tool or PP depending on contrast desired.Many times times whiskers and chevrons are blended with the fabric by scraping. Chevrons The lines that form on inner thighs of jeans (as opposed to lap which are called whiskers) from continued wear. The process is the same as used to apply whiskers - by hand using either a sanding tool alone or with PP depending on contrast desired. Tagging A technique that folds or scrunches several layers of denim, and attaches it together by swifttach or sewing thread before wash. After wash it is released to reveal a pattern of light areas where stones hit the folds, against dark areas where wash did not penetrate.To highlight the tagging appearnce it is often touched up by the emry papers. Sand Blasting - This technique is applied to give the stone look, by creating a localized color change Sandblasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look. The mechanical abrasion removes the indigo. It is an economical, ecological and environmental friendly. Pigment Spray -

This is not a kind of wash but just a spray of the pigment of to give different color, which can be seen, in the market as greased or oiled look. This is not a permanent kind of spray and goes off after maximum of 5 washes. In addition, it is usually done using the pigment dyes or the direct dyes. Ozone fadingDenim garments can also be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber. This procedure involves the exposure of the garments to ozone to turn them to grey yellowish tone leading to appearance of worn look. Whenever indigo reacts with ozone it destroys the indigo dye and thereby leading to synthesis of issatin(pale orange) and anthralinic acid (pale yellow )which are basic grayish yellow color which on staying on surface of garment provides the fade out look. Through this process, color removal is possible without losing strength. This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering, ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation. FOR WHISKERING/SCRAPPING KEY ELEMENTS: Check there is proper air distribution in the mannequin and it blows evenly. Garment to be whiskered/scrapped should be free from Loose or uncut threads. Garments should have either a waistband stitch or dummy button. Insert the garment on the mannequin. Take out the front pocket bag away from the thigh Area. Align the garment properly. Blow the Air into the mannequin and ensure that it blows evenly. Use the sandpaper for scrapping and/or whiskering.

Once the whiskering/scrapping is done than the Air should be blowed out and deflate the mannequin. The garment should then be removed and kept on the rack in front.

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Air blowing into the mannequin is should be even to ensure even scrapping. The Air blowing into the mannequin should not exceeding the Limit otherwise the mannequin will burst open thereby tearing the garment. Also slightly excess air blowing into the mannequin can cause the Zip to break open.This should be avoided. Scrapping lines and tube marks should be avoided by proper air blowing. The whiskering/scrapping should be merged evenly as per the std.

FOR SPRAYING KEY ELEMENTS: Check there is proper air distribution in the mannequin and it blows evenly. Ensure the correct concentration of the Potassium permanganate is available. Garments should either have a waistband stitch or dummy button. Insert the garment on the mannequin. Take out the front pocket bag away from the thigh Area. Allign the garment properly. Blow the Air into the mannequin and ensure that it blows evenly. Spray the required area with the correct concentration of Potassium permanganate. Once the spraying is done than the Air shiould be blowed out and deflate the mannequin.

The garment should then be removed and hanged on the rack for air drying .

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Air blowing into the mannequin is even to ensure even spraying. The Air blowing into the mannequin should not exceeding the Limit otherwise the manneuin will burst open thereby tearing the garment. Also slightly excess air blowing into the mannequin can cause the Zip to break open.This should be avoided. The PP should be cleaned regularly from the mannequin otherwise the same may stain the garment. The spraying should be merged evenly as per the std. Uneven Spraying should be avoided by spraying it uniformly.

FOR SANDBLAST KEY ELEMENTS: Check the Air pressure is right. Allign the garment properly on the sandblast table. Use the sand of proper mesh size for sandblasting. Once the sandblasting is done than the garment should be dusted and kept aside. The garment should then be kept on the rack at back .

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Air pressure has to be maintained constant to ensure even sandblast. The Sandblasting should not exceeding the Limit otherwise the garment with start damaging. The sandblasting should be merged evenly as per the std. Uneven Blasting should be avoided by blasting it uniformly.

FOR TACKING KEY ELEMENTS: Check whether the Tacking has to be done on the Table Top or by hand and follow the method accordingly. Garment to be Tacked should be first folded according to the standard. Then placed in the tacking M/c and bottom lever should be pressed so that the tack comes in place. For hand tacking the Tacking gun should be placed on the folded area and tacked.

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: The Tacking Area should be folded and held properly to ensure correct Tacks. Ensure that all the required folds are done without missing any.

FOR GRINDING KEY ELEMENTS: Check for the proper rotation of the Grinding wheel. The grinding wheel should not be worn off. Switch on the grinding wheel and place the area of the garment to be grinded against the wheel. Once the grinding is done than the garment should be kept aside on the trolley. PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES:

Any other area of the garment other than intended should be kept away from the grinding wheel to avoid damaging. The garment should not be pressed more than required towards the grinding wheel otherwise this may cause Excess grinding.

FOR DAMAGING KEY ELEMENTS: Check for the proper rotation of the Grinding wheel. The grinding wheel should not be worn off. Switch on the grinding wheel and place the grinding wheel against the Area to be grinded. Once the grinding is done than the garment should be kept aside on the trolley.

PRE-CAUTIONAL MEASURES: Any other area of the garment other than intended should be kept away The Grinding wheel should not be pressed more than required towards the from the grinding wheel to avoid damaging. garment otherwise this may cause excess damaging. Big Mac Technical characteristics Model- Big Mac (P80) Power supply- 400VAC10%, 50Hz Three phases (3F+N+T) 230VAC10%, 60Hz Three phases (3F+T) Consumption- 25 Amps Capacity- 80 Kg Water deposit capacity- 450L

Air consumption- 1800L/min Min pressure air- 5 Bar Max pressure of compression- 18 bar Description of components The machine has been designed to dry the garments first by applying high pressure and then by a second step of vacuum process. It has two working areas, one is the loading area where the garments are introduced and a compacted mass will be made with them; the other area is the unloading zone, here one operator will remove the garments using a conveyor belt. Between both zones, is located the area where the high pressure is applied. The capacity of the basket is 70 garments per cycle 1 Centering device It is used to form a compact mass with the wet garments. 2 Compression table It is the place where a force of 85 TN is applied. 3 Basket It is the place where all the garments are dumped. 4 Conveyor belt It is used to extract the garments after the compression. 5 extraction pump it is used to extract the water that has been used for the pressure. 6 pressure pump the puma works up to 18 bars. The force applied over the membrane is 80 tn. Safety devices The big Mac has the following safety devices: Security bars There are two security bars on the machine 1. one is located in the loading area Security characteristics- when the operator breaks the beam, the centering device goes to high position.

2. the other is located at the unloading area Security characteristics- when the operator breaks the beam, all the process will be stopped Safety micro switch Characteristics all the doors are protected by safety micro in order to avoid any deliberate or un- deliberate manipulation. Safety proximity switch Characteristics: there are two proximity switches for the basket.these switches will turn on if the brake proximity switch is out of order. There is one on the loading zone and another in the unloading zone. Emergency stop Characteristics: there are three emergency stop switches on the big Mac; one is located on the frontal panel and the other two at the back of the machine. Emergency connectors Characteristics: Two connectors join the body of the machine with the conveyor belt. In case of disconnection when the machine is running, the big Mac will be stopped. Emergency relay: Characteristics: 24-vac relay is located in the interior of the electrical box. The duty of the relay is to break the current between the two inverters in case the relay is damaged. Security lamp Characteristics: When the light is illuminated, the worker will be able to introduce the garments Double button to start the cycle

Characteristics: in order to start the working cycle, the operator must press both buttons simultaneously.

Working mode There are two modes of working automatic mode and manual mode Automatic mode 1. check that all the emergency stops are released 2. if one of them is pressed the working cycle will be stopped by the PLC 3. if someone enters the working area, means the machine will stop. 4. Configure the machine with its parameters. 5. Check that the switch is in automatic mode. 6. Introduce the garments when the working lamp is flashing. 7. Press both buttons, located on the top panel, to start the cycle. Manual mode This working mode is useful in order to test the machine and when is necessary unblock it in case of alarm or emergency: Centering device: the only condition to lower this device is that the basket

is located at the loading area and that no alarms are on. Basket: the only way to move the basket is that the centering device is

located in the high position. Table: it will go down when the basket is in the unloading area, there is no

pressure over the table and the lower shutters are closed. Compression pump: it will be on when the inferior shutters are closed.

Shutters: they will be used when the table is in its lowest position, and will

be open when there is no pressure inside the table. Extraction pump: it will be on until the pressure of the table reaches -0.6









Pre Production Meeting Happens

Is There Any Problem In Design


Changes Just Suggested and Approval Taken From Merchandiser


Pilot Run Is Taken So That the Operator can become habitual to the style

Mass Production Begins

FINISHING DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Finishing manger Asst. Finishing manger Executive Officer seconds Clerk-data entry Iron tables Riveting and button Toppers Tag machine SNLS CS Over lock Bar tack Ramsons Rotandy Ramsons, Mac and Veit Dennison 28 20 7 6 7 4 2 2 executive finishing officer-finishing executive Packing officer-packing

Packing section flow chart

Receipt of Wrinkle Free Treated Garments

Store Treated Garments In Cooling Area

If Altered Send for rework Yes Is there any alteration?


Trimming & Checking

Is there any damage?

Can it be repaired?

Not Altered Confirm Second s Return to Trimming & Checking



100% Measurement

Confirm Seconds

Is Final Audit Ok?


Pocket Cleaning


Shade Variation Checking

Back Pocket Tag, UPC Ticket, Size Sticker Selection

Iron Tag, Size Sticker Placement, Polybag Packing Final Audit of Polybag Packed Pieces Pack goodsDispatch to(Size N Shade Wise) in cartons Warehouse

DISPATCH DEPARTMENT STRUCTURE Warehouse manager Warehouse officer (2) Data entry operator Responsibilities Warehouse manager Consolidation of dispatch details Planning & coordinating with expeditators & handling logistics Verification of packing list to finished goods handed over from finishing Stock control of finished goods Reconciliation of post shipment goods & closing of ocrs Prompt clearance of post clearance of stock Sale of seconds

Warehouse officer Mysore road dispatch & seconds Receiving & checking of cartons

Loading of cartons for shipments Outward documentation Receiving the goods from job workers for shipments Yashwantpur dispatch & seconds

Receiving the seconds from finishing & washing Proper storage with identification in the godown Co-ordinate seconds sale

Data entry operator Data entry into Orapps Sales invoice generation Seconds entry in system File management

Flow of dispatch department lot Permission to move goods granted by the Q A Trucks called Goods moved to ports Shipment clear from finishing department Buyer nominated Q A called final inspection Random inspection done by him, i.e. called re-screening for whole

Flow of warehouse Receipt of packed garments from finishing

Segregate first, second & Damaged Pick pack Post Goods issue Dispatch the packed goods Order Reconciliation

Flow chart dispatch department-

Receipt of packed garments from finishing

Segregate first, second & damaged

Pick pack

Post Goods issue

Dispatch the packed goods

Order Reconciliation

Warehouse flow process

Receipt Of Packed Garments From Packing Section

Counting W.r.t Work Order

Segregate Size Wise, Color Wise, & Shade Wise Packing SolidDailyClose Accounting Generate Cartons & Order Packing List

The amount of order is the total pieces specified by the buyer but anything extra or less is also specified by him only. Packing can be of two types: Ratio packing Individual packing

The packing list and invoice are sent along with the truck and handovers everything along with the order to the CHA (Clearing House Agent) who acts as an agent between the shipping company and the factory. For buyers like VF, the department calls the container at the factory itself as the order is of that much amount. This also reduces the cost of the loading and unloading the order in container and truck respectively. Bar coding of the orders is also done in this department only. The form 39 (i.e. the sales tax form) and Delivery Challan are made by this department only.



Yes PPC/merchants/quality


Fabric inspection For width measurement, selvedge is excluded for VF while it is included for all other buyers. 40 point per roll is acceptable ad all together 25 points per square meter is acceptable. Defective points per 100 square meters = ( Total number of points*100*100 ) For GAP, ( Number of points*3600 ) Number of Fabric checking 1 Laboratory Once the rolls are received by the store, the head ends are cut from them or sometimes head ends are already cut and send by the mill itself. These head end / ( l (m) * 1.1 * w (inches) ) / ( l (m) * w (cm) )

are of 0.8 m each. From these head ends the lab cuts 2 un-wash bits and 3 wash bits. The un-wash bits are used for shrinkage tests and wash bits used for shade grouping. The wash bits of shade are used for making a blanket of 15 bits each side, in total 30 bits. These bits are of size 9 * 7. These bits are sent for washing as per the buyer requirements. After every procedure these bits are checked in light box for shade variation and minimum 3 groups are made. In these the shades are done in 3 groups, S1, S2 and S3. S1 stands for light shade, S2 for medium shade and S3 for dark shade. The un-wash bits are of 50 * 50 cm size. There are 9 markings marked on the fabric bits. These are also washed as per buyer specifications and then checked for shrinkage. These bits are overlocked to each other to avoid relaxation of fabric. 1. pH testing This test is done to check the acidic or alkaline behavior of the garment after all the processes are done on the garment. This is done so that to avoid itching, etc which is caused when the bodies sweat reacts with the chemicals present in the garment. This can be harmful for skin. The garment should be neutral or slightly acidic in nature on testing for better results later. This test is mainly done for garments but it can also be done for fabric. It is mainly done for garments because after all processing only the garment will contain any harmful chemicals. Take 10 gram fabric by weight and cut it in small bits and pieces of not more than 5 mm each. This is done so that all the warp and weft ends can easily react with the water. Boil these bits in a beaker full of water till 80C for around 10 minutes. Take the bits of fabric out after this time and cool the extract of beaker.

After cooling of the extract keep the pH indicator in a beaker and keep it in it until the indicator comes to a stable reading.

2. Snap attachment tester The assessment of snap attachment strength is an important criterion especially in he design and manufacture of garments for infants ad children wear. The measurement of a uniform force applied to the snap attachment shall be recorded by means of force measuring device. Once the appropriate force is registered on the scale, a stop clock is used for recording a set period of time. The main purpose of this test is to prevent separation between the snap and the garment, which represents a dangerous situation if the loose snap is swallowed by an infant. This test method covers a uniform force required to pull a snap attachment perpendicular to the garment. The snap attachment is not forced to separate from the garment. This method is required attachment of snaps to specimens using specifications provided by the producers of snaps. This test method is used to establish correlation to wear conditions and for comparing different brands and types of snap fasteners. Imperial units (i.e. pound force) are to be regarded as the standard. The garment with the snap attachment shall be positioned onto the lower fabric clamp, ensure the garment is securely fastened by turning the lever arm accordingly. Attach the upper snap clamp to the snap; finally apply a vertical uniform load of 7 lbs for a period of 10 seconds then release. If the snap can endure the cycle, that particular snap is deemed to be safer. A minimum of 20 snaps, both male and female sides must be tested for attachment strength. For kids wear, 7 lbs force is required. For normal wear, 20 lbs force is acceptable. After 20 lbs force the strength of the button is considered to be very good.

Incase of attachment strength failure: If any component fails to withstand the force and the result falls within a range of <17 lbs but >10 lbs, additional samples must be drawn. If one or more components fail to withstand the force and result falls below 10 lbs, production of snap application must be stopped immediately. A formal investigation must be initiated and technical assistance requested from the snap supplier. Procedure: Locate and position the male and female snap attachment directly onto the recess, ensure the snap fastening side faces upwards. Turn and pull the lever arm to secure the snap attachment. Open the upper snap clamp by rotating of the knurled disc lock counter clockwise. Set the pointer to 0 positions by adjusting the 0 ring of scale. Descend the upper snap clamp by rotation of the top flywheel, until it extends to the base of the snap attachment. Securely attach the jaws onto the snap by rotating the knurled disc lock. Rotate the tp flywheel as to elevate the scale, thus inducing a force on the snap attachment. Upon obtaining the 17 lbs force, a stop clock will be used to record a period of 10 sec. Upon completion of first test, continue for the remaining specimens. Record the measurements on the data sheet provided. 3. Tearing strength tester We usually do the tensile strength test for the fabric but for garments we practice the tearing strength test because the garments tear off.

There are generally 3 units of weight used for this test depending upon the type of fabric used. 1600 gm pocketing fabric 3200 gm thick pocketing fabric and less oz denim 6400 gm more oz denim and polyester cotton pocketing fabric 4. Crock meter Climatic environment: Temperature 5-55C Humidity 30-95% RH Altitude 2000 m above sea level A crock meter is used for determination of color fastness of textile against rubbing either dry or wet conditions. The crock meter test is done to check the color fastness of the dye of garment to rubbing. For this two type of tests is conducted, i.e. the dry crocking test and the wet crocking test. In this test the fabric is rubbing against a standard bleached whit cotton swatch. The crocking cloth is an undyed bleached cotton cloth free from starch, optical brightness or other finishes. Size should be 5*5 cm. And in turn this swatch is checked against the grey scale sheets. In this the fabric is given 10 to and fro motions on the crock meter. 4 specimens of 25 * 10 cm, 2 each parallel to warp and weft yarn need to be cut, one each for dry and wet rubbing fastness. And this specimen should be cut at least 10 cm away from the selvedge. Diameter of finger: 16 mm Force on finger: 9N Size of crocking cloth: 5 * 5 mm Diameter of finger: 25 mm Size of crocking cloth: 7 * 7 cm

Net weight of unit: 28 kg The comparison is done in light box called Spectralight III which has the following lights: Daylight 65 UV Cool white TL 84 U30 Horizon A-

In wet crocking test, the swatch is wet up to 80% of the weight of the swatch itself. If the swatch is of 10 gm, so after wetting the swatch should weigh 18 gm. But the question arises that why this crocking is test done for denims. This is because the denim fabric is dyed with indigo vat dye for which the test of the rubbing fastness and color fastness to washing are very important. 5. GSM Climatic environment: Temperature 5-55C Humidity 30-95% RH Altitude 2000 m above sea level The instrument is equipped with a set of replaceable blades, 2 special grey cutting pads. The reversible blades as if one side gets blunt due to continuous usage, the blades can be turned to the other side. All four sides of blade can be used. Determination of weight per unit area:

The sample cutter cuts rapidly and accurately circular specimen of 100 cm2 which is exactly 1/100th of square meter. The result is grams, multiplied by 100, gives GSM (grams per square meter). Specimen Weight (grams) * 10 = Grams per Square Meter Size of sample diameter to be cut: 113 mm Size of grey cutting pads: 300 (l) * 200 (w) * 23 (h) mm Overall dimension of unit: 160 (l) * 160 (w) * 110 (h) mm Cutting blades reversible Movement of hand wheel: round to cut a sample Net weight of unit: 1.7 kg (3.74 lbs) Fabric cut is placed between the sample cutter and cutting pad. The slight press on the hand wheel brings internal blades into contact with fabric specimen cut by rotating the hand wheel under pressure. The units of the weighing machine can be changes according to the use. 13 units of weight can be enabled. Tear strength (warp) Tear strength (weft) Shrinkage (warp) Shrinkage (weft) Tensile (warp) Tensile (weft) Weight (dry) Weight (washed) Stiffness pH Crocking (dry) Crocking (wet) gram gram % % gram gram Gm/m2 Gm/m2 kg ASTM D 1424 ASTM D 1424 AATCC 135 AATCC 135 ASTM D 1424 ASTM D 1424 ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 3776 ASTM D 4032 EN 1413 AATCC 8 AATCC 8

QUALITY DEPARTMENT RESPONSIBILITIES LAB & FABRIC: Key Job Objectives Assurance the Quality of Incoming fabric ( Denim & Pocketing) Shade Matching for the mill washed swatches and in housed washed swatches in comparing to wash approved std from the buyer Generating the taper report based on the shade and shrinkage values Ensure that lab instruments are working and calibrated Interaction with other dept for the proper functioning of the plant system

Job responsibility: Implementation of quality system in department Testing and Assuring the quality of raw material ( Fabric and Sheeting) Ensuring the incoming fabric audit for the quality std as per the buyer Job training of lab staffs for the required work Analyzing the Fabric qualities and the shade performance

Interaction with other dept like merchandising, PPC, washing, ware house, cutting. Final approval for shade, shrinkage and fabric inspection based on the performance std Ensuring proper house keeping in dept Evaluate the taper reports and fabric inspection reports as per the quality performance std Confirming and approving the utilization of Bleach (chemical) for the washing.

Responsible for reports Fabric Inspection report (denim & pocketing). Garment test reports and attachment strength report Taper Report (shade and shrinkage)

Key Results Area Assuring the quality of incoming Fabric Making of shade groupings based on the visual. Testing of Garments Proper Functioning of the dept & dept house keeping. Coordination with other dept for effective work flow.

CUTTING SECTION Key Job Objectives Cross checking the taper report to rolls allocated for shade shrinkage. Studying the tech pack/sample and initial product reports (size set).

Cross checking the patterns based on the fabric allocation. CAD Marker is checked shrinkage, all parts and particulars. Cross check of lay marker. Cross check on numbering and sorting.

Job responsibility: Cross check on all steps of the cutting flow. Ensuring the sampling audit findings are incorporated before bulk cutting. Keep tab on taper/fabric allocation/marker Cross check of patterns. Cross check on lay marker to lay spread and no of plies. Cross check on cut panels with master shrinkage pattern for cutting accuracy - 3points. keep tab on numbering and sorting - random check Interaction with other dept like production, PPC, ware house

Responsible for reports Cutting Inspection report (denim & pocketing).

Key Results Area Assuring the quality of outgoing cutting. Coordination with production dept on lay/cut number - cross check.

SEWING Key Job Objectives

Conformance to buyers requirement on construction.

Job responsibility: Studying sample and the tech pack. Cross checking the batch layout to that of IED allocation. Cross check on trim card to the trims issued to batch. Cross check the cutting to that of the rigid measurements. Monitoring machine setting to that of required construction. Cross check on Needles used to thread tkts and seam operations. Cross check on SPI and tensions. Making mock ups of the critical constructions and display as operators guide. Monitoring on operator to machine quality and construction and alerting the batch supervisor/production team for positive action. Critical quality issues are highlighted as alarm using traffic light system Interaction with other dept like merchandising, finishing, PPC, final QC, cutting, washing. Responsible for reports Hourly Inspection Report End line inspection -DHU Batch dispatch report Rigid measurement report Traffic light system report

Key Results Area Assuring the product quality on construction and measurements.

FINISHING Key Job Objectives Conformance to buyers requirement of the product.

Job responsibility: Studying sample and the tech pack. Cross checking the construction and wash. Cross check on trim card to the trims approved. Cross check the garment to that of the required measurements. Monitoring the finishing process on all finishing related issues. Cross check on price tickets/match book/tags and barcodes Cross check on press standards/folding and packing methods as per buyers requirements. Interaction with other dept like merchandising, washing, PPC, final QC, sewing. Responsible for reports Hourly Inspection Report Audit report on packed goods

Key Results Area Assuring the product quality on conformance to requirements.


Key Job Objectives Assurance the Quality of value addition -Wash dry and wet process. Shade and dry process Matching with respect to approved standards in comparing to wash approved std from the buyer Controlling the rejections to the lowest percentage.

Job responsibility: Ensuring right product finish flow out of washing section Creating negative standards for all process with all technical data. Check point for all dry process to ensure bulk matches to requirement. Job training of checkers for the required work Analyzing the wash process in the pilot and re working on areas necessary. Setting of wash standards to requirements. Monitoring shade lots and getting approvals as bands for bulk production 100% checking for quality within approved bands and segregation of defective garments of both dry and wet process. First check on classifying on all quality related issues and feed back to all departments. Interaction with other dept like merchandising, finishing, PPC, ware house, final QC Responsible for reports Daily report on dry process - 100% audit observations 100% audit report on wet process. Dispatch report.

Key Results Area Assuring the quality of wash for dry and wet process. Maintaining consistency in both dry and wet process.

PRE SAMPLING Key Job Objectives Conformance to buyers requirement on product harmony.

Job responsibility: Studying the tech/style reference pack. Cross checking for measurements and styling details. Fit and proto follow ups. Sealer sample. Interaction with other dept like merchandising, pattern, design

Responsible for reports Track on submissions.

Key Results Area Product Marketing - Designers satisfaction.


Key Job Objectives Conformance to product requirement on bulk production.

Job responsibility: Studying the tech/style reference pack. Cross check sealer sample/comments before size set cutting. Cross checking for measurements and styling details. Interaction with other dept like merchandising, pattern, PPC, cutting

Responsible for reports Size set report.

Key Results Area The first step of creating the master pattern of the product.

NOMINATED QA Key Job Objectives A second self of the customer

Job responsibility: Studying the tech/style reference pack. Cross check sealer sample/comments before size set cutting. Cross checking for measurements and styling details.

Interaction with other dept like merchandising, pattern, PPC, cutting, lab, washing, buyer representatives

Responsible for reports To cross check the fabric and garment test reports. To cross check on the project report. Size set and Internal PPM reports. Daily in-house and final audit reports. Follow up on all post pre production activities /samples and reports. Coordinating day to day status and follow ups with the buyer.

Key Results Area Assuring the trust and confidence level of the product to the customer.

QA COORDINATOR Key Job Objectives Coordinating within the facility.

Job responsibility: Receiving tech pack from PPC and cross checking the same for all details. Filing all customer manuals. Follow up on all samples. Interaction with other dept like merchandising, pattern, PPC, cutting, sewing, washing, buying house Follow up on all QA requirements.

Trims and accessories cross audits. (Inspection request - tracking and follow up.

Responsible for reports DHU Reports on sewing line. Process control chart for sewing lines. Washing reports. Sewing/Washing consolidated audit report.

Key Results Area One window for Product Integrity. QUALITY AUDITS FINISHED PRODUCTION- BOTTOM Purpose The quality on finished production must serve as measurement of the outgoing quality of products shipped to distribution centers or directly to the customers. The result of audits will give indication for:Audit The garment quality of products will be evaluated versus standards outlined as follows Quality workmanship, Materials, Finishing audit Accept /reject the production lot for which audit is made Indicate actions required in manufacturing to improve level of Determine quality level of plant production

outgoing quality

a) Workmanship Workmanship versus construction specification and tolerances. The market versus of material specification Finishing versus finished standards for shade, color, and will be appearance towards consumer satisfaction (will be This includes presentation and packing

verified on finishing. b) Packing accuracy

visually inspected on sewing uniformly), material aspect appearance and

Each audited will be verified for total quality/lot no./size versus information on contents of box. Information on box should be verified with information on packing list for shipment. Fit audit It will be evaluated versus body measurement charts for the products c) Lot size Number of garments considered as 1 lot for audit. Before setting up a sample plan we should define our lots Lots to be audited may be-: 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) An order no. Cut number A number of units A pallet with a predefined amount of boxes A predetermined amount of boxes stored in an orderly manner

(stored by columns, rows) maximum lot size not exceed 2000garment. If

order or cut is greater than 2000 then lot size must be adjusted (and it is selected as predefined amount of boxes i.e. pallet, row, column. For calculation purposes one standard box represents 20 garments (2 half boxes are 1 standard box) The lot size for measurements audit may be that lot size for workmanship audit. 1 lot size may not be split into partial shipments. Remainders of a cut or order should be treated as a lot. d) Sampling plan - A sample plan is a combination of a sample (sizes) to be used and associated lot acceptability criteria. - For workmanship and packing accuracy-: a single sample plan will be used. A single sample plan is a combination of sample size and acceptance and rejection members. The sample plan is inspected and the number of nonconforming item discovered is counted. If the number of nonconforming items is less than or equal to the acceptance number, the entire lot is to be accepted. Only those items in the sample that were found nonconforming items are equal to or greater than the rejection number, the entire lot is not accepted. - For measurements -: A single sample plan will be used which differs in one case from the sample plan above mentioned for workmanship and packing accuracy. The acceptance limit is not expressed as a number but as a percentage. In case the number of non confirming items exceeds 5%, the entire lot is not accepted. e) Sample selection

- For each lot a sample is selected and audited. Each lot is classified as acceptable or unacceptable on the basis of the number of nonconformities found. - Random sample must be taken from garments being packed in boxes. Only boxes already foreseen of a box label must be taken into account. - Random sample selected must cover various waist sizes and inseam sizes. - Proportion of sample size must be in proportion of units finished (in case audit is started before entire lot is inspected and packed in the finishing department) For workmanship (including finishing and fabric defects) To compose total sample size required as per table, take at random-: 10 garments per box (5 units/box for lot sizes smaller than 800 units) Audit garments for workmanship, finishing and fabric defects. In addition check for if -: -Size on care label matches with size on size ticket. - Style name on care label matches with the style name on size ticket. For measurements -: To compare total sample size required as per table (is minimum sample size depending the amount of sizes per lot), take ad random for -: Bottoms-: Minimum 3 garments per size (waist) need to be selected for measuring. All on total sample for key measurements: waist, inseam, thigh 1 garment per box: seat+ knee+ bottom. 4 units per lot on front+ back length.

4 units per lot on fly opening.

For packing accuracy -: Packing accuracy may be audited during workmanship audit. Check quality/size/lot number versus information on box label. Check quality/size/lot number of every single unit of that box versus

the information mentioned on the packing slip. Time of sampling selection-: samples may be drawn after a lot has been produced, or during production of a lot. In either case the sample should be selected by pallet or by a predefined amount of boxes stored in an orderly manner. Exception: in case the lot size (read order/cut) is small 400 units, the entire order have to be ready prior to start the audit procedure.(this is valid for workmanship packing and measuring audit) Random sampling -: Each lot is judged on the quality of the sample. Hence the sample The sample has to be selected in a random manner. This implies that needs to be represented of the lot. each item in the lot has an equal probability of being chosen as a part of the sample. Proportion of sample size should be in proportion to units already inspected in the finishing department.

f) Audit Plans and switching scores Sample sizes differ accordingly to audit plan:Audit plan for first audit may be:Normal audit plan

Tightened audit plan Reduced audit plan for workmanship Normal audit plan for measurements

Audit plans for a second audit plan may be:-

Switching of audit plan Depending on the results of audit, the plant manager or QI For new plants and new contractors, the tightened audit plan Switching rules can be applied for packing accuracy, Switching rules can be set up by production line module or dept. has responsibility to impose a tightened audit plan. should be applied by QI department. measurements or workmanship separately as required. product type as required. g) Sample size -: All sample sizes are set up in such way in order to guarantee an average outgoing quality limit (AOQL) of 1.5% for workmanship and for packing accuracy. Samples sizes for measurements are set up in such way to guarantee a DPHU (defects per 100 units) of minimum 5% for the key measurements. Workmanship -: Required sample size for normal, tightened and

reduced audit plan by lot and reject number for workmanship (including fabric and finishing). Reduced sample size is only valid for 2 audit when first audit failed and after lot has been 100% re-inspected for workmanship.





BOXE S 0 1 2 3 4-5 6-8 9-14 15-25 26-60 61-160

UNITS 2-8 9-15 16-25 26-50 51-90 91-150 151-280 281-500 501-1200 12013200

SAMPL E SIZE 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125

REJEC T 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 3 4 6

SAMPLE SIZE 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 80 125 200

REJEC T 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 3 4 6

AUDIT ONLY SAMPL REJECT E SIZE 2 2 2 3 5 8 13 20 32 50 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 2 3 4

Packing accuracy -: Required sample size for normal, tightened

and reduced audit plan by lot, and reject number for packing accuracy. Reduced sample size is only valid for 2audit when first audit failed and after lot has been 100% re-inspected for workmanship. LOT SIZE BOXES 2-25 26-50 51-90 91-150 151-280 NORMAL SAMPLE SIZE 5 8 13 20 32 REJECT 1 1 1 2 2 TIGHTENED SAMPL E SIZE 8 13 20 32 50 REJEC T 1 1 2 2 2 REDUCED 2% AUDIT ONLY SAMPL REJEC E SIZE 2 3 5 8 13 T 1 1 1 1 1

Measurement -: Required sample size for normal, tightened audit

plan by lot for measurements. Acceptance level is maximum 5% DHPU for each individual key measurement together. LOT SIZE NORMAL TIGHTENED

BOXE S 3 4-5 6-8 9-14 15-25 26-60 61-160



REJEC T OVER 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5%

SAMPLE SIZE 8 13 20 32 50 80 125

REJEC T OVER 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5% 5%

_-50 51-90 91-150 151-280 281-500 501-1200 12013200

5 8 13 20 32 50 80

h) Recording the audit results Separate audit results needed for workmanship audit, packing Indicate on forms if it concerns first audit, second audit Records must specify Contractor name Audit date Style Finish Fabric Order number (in case 1 order is split up in different lots for each lot a separate audit form needs to be used) Quantity of units audited per lot size (workmanship, packing accuracy and measurements separately). All defects and all measurements found must be recorded in audit form by auditor who carried out the inspection of the garment. all non critical defects must be recorded on audit form accuracy audit and fit measurement audit.

i) Results of audit/action plan

Audit results

Audit results for workmanship audit, packing audit and measurements audit must be evaluated only when all the items of sample size have been audited. So in case there are already sufficient nonconforming items to force non acceptance, even then we must audit the defined sample size as per table. Workmanship

All defects, critical and non-critical ones found must be recorded on the audit form by the auditor who carried out the inspection. indicate if audit is accepted /rejected for workmanship audit. lot size. Amount of critical (defects/sample size)*100=%DPHU (sample size is effective amount of garments measured, not the theoretical size). Indicate if audit is accepted/rejected for workmanship audit. Packing accuracy Fit-measurements

Calculate % critical DPHU for measurements on each audit form for each

All packing defects found must be recorded on the audit form by auditor who carried out inspection. Indicate if audit is accepted/rejected for packing audit Responsible quality authority must sign off audit release Disposition of unacceptable lots A lot can be unacceptable for Workmanship

When a lot fails the acceptance sampling criteria, the lot will be resubmitted for inspection. The lot will be 100% re-inspected for all cases of features. All defected items should be repaired when possible, in case not, garments should be

classified as irregulars. Garments should be repaired in accordance with critical/major classification manual and fabric/laundry defects classification manual in order to be accepted as a first quality garment. FIT- measurements

when a lot fails the acceptance limit of 5% DHPU for one of the individual key measurements as mentioned below, the lot will be resubmitted for 100% inspection For bottoms- waist, inseam, thigh Any intended resizing always has to be communicated to central planning (and to the contracting department in case it concerns a contractor) and in order to verify if new sizes are available in the product offer. If not they can be rerouted to another country running these sizes or the garments need to be made irregular. This advice is also important to decide if re-cutting is required for the resized garments in the lot. if there is any circumstances that is not described here than advise has to be requested from VF quality integrity department. Packing accuracy -:

When a lot fail the acceptance sampling criteria, the lot will be resubmitted for inspection. Re-audit of an unacceptable lot-:

Each resubmitted lot has to be resubmitted after it has been reinspected. The audit results of resubmitted lots have to be recorded separately from the records of the lots offered for original inspection, so as not to cause confusion in any calculation of product quality. The audit results of the second audit must be evaluated by using the same criteria as an original audit, but applying the correct reduced sample plan Action plans

Audit results should be used as took to take corrective action plan and quality improvement (proactive, build in quality and process improvements) Daily audit results must be communicated to respective line supervisors for corrective action both on critical and major defects found. Audit forms Audit forms have to be shipped together with the lots and addressed to the quality supervisor of the distribution center. Final audit forms are the one requested. Quality integrity dept; VF Europe Classification for measurement deviation versus specification Bottom (rigid fabric) Measurements Key Waist Elasticated Waist Inseam Thigh Other Seat Knee Bottom Fly opening Front length Back length Inch Specified tolerance + 3/8 1/8 1/2 3/8 1/8 Major till + 1 3/16 3/8 3/8 3/4 1 3/16 3/8 3/8 Critical over + 3/4 1 3/16 3/8 3/8 1 3/16 3/8 3/8

Bottom (stretch fabric in weft direction) Measurements Inch Specified tolerance Major till Critical over

+ Key Waist (if cut stretch) Waist (if cut non stretch) Elasticated Waist Inseam Thigh Other Seat Knee Bottom Fly opening Front length Back length 3/4 1/2 3/4 3/8 3/8 1/8

3/4 1/2 1/2 3/4 3/8 3/8 1/8

+ 1 1 3/4

1 3/4 1 3/4

+ 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/16 3/8 3/8

1 1 1 3/16 3/8 3/8

1 1 3/16 3/16 3/8 3/8 3/8 3/8

VF-Europe construction measurement specification for bottoms All measurements are taken without stretching garment 1. WAIST-: close fly and fasten band. Align front and back of

waistband. Belt loop does not interfere with measuring. Lay the front flat without stretching waistband. 2. 3. SEAT-: Place garment front up and flat on table. Measure lowest THIGH -: Flatten out fullness of at crotch and side seam. bar tack of fly out line keeping measuring ruler parallel to waist band


Holes Warp lines Extra warp threads

CUTTING DEFECTS Overlapping Notches missing Plotter jump Cutter must Direction out

STITCHING DEFECTS Open at inseam Open at out seam Open at back rise Open at back pocket Open at w/b Loop open Raw edge at back pocket Open at bottom hem

DRY PROCESS Heavy grinding Spray less Spray heavy Whiskering less Whiskering heavy Heavy scraping Less scraping

WET PROCESS Shade variation Tone variation High low effect Damages Out of shade Stone marks Stain marks

COMMERCIAL DEPARTMENT The commercial department mainly comprises of three parts: Pre-shipment Post-shipment Benefit

Pre-shipment Once the planning is there and the pre-shipment date is decided then the preshipment part of this department comes into action. The shipping line gives the details that in which cargo vessel will go. The CHA helps in getting the custom cleared goods before shipment. This department usually tries that the order should go by ship only as the air freight is very costly. The documents sent with the order are the commercial invoice, packing list, details, buyer Q A certificate, check list, terms of sale, cost insurance freight (CIF), Free on board (FOB), Cost & Freight Rate (CFR), etc. Forwarder Cargo Receipt (FCR) and Bill of Leading (BL) are the two documents which are the most important documents without which the buyer wont take the goods. Post-shipment The payment terms are the things which are considered as a part of the post shipment part. The documents which come under this are the Letter of Credit (LC) and the Telegraphic Transfer Payment (TT). LC is the document which the buyers bank issues without which the factory wont get any payment. Benefits The extra incentives provided to the exporters by the government, etc are the benefits part deals with. These comprise of the drawback (usually 12%), Export

Promotion of Capital Goods (EPCG), Advance license, Duty Entitlement Passbook Scheme (DEPB), Duty Free Replenishment Certificate (DFRC), etc. EPCG is a kind of exporters proof. Advance license is again used by exporters for something. DEPB is used in case of high imports against exports. DFRC not used by exporters.

DEPARTMENT STRUCUTURE Senior maintenance manager Officer maintenance manager maintenance Senior mechanic Line mechanic Responsibilities Officer maintenance: Issuing the maintenance accessories Maintaining preventive maintenance report Maintaining the broken needle log report officer -electrical electrician

Senior mechanic: Handling semi automated machines Allocation of machines based on layout from IED

Line mechanic: Handling one allocated line machineries Accountable of machinery for allocated line

Officer - electrician: Responsible for d.g & compressor

Maintaining the diesel & electricity consumption report

Electrician: Flow chart Maintenance of electrical equipment in the sewing batches Maintenance of electrical utilities in the premises

Get information from dept regarding Breakdown, power supply Reference manual and pickup tool kit

Examine the nature of breakdown and request for spares by making indent if necessary

Verify the spare and certify the Bills

Carryout Repair

Check the machine

Handover the Machine

Carry out preventive Maintenance Records

Call external agency for servicing

Supervise Check the machine performance

Prepare Preventive maintenance Chart

There are two types of maintenance: 1. Preventive maintenance Breakdown maintenance preventive maintenance

Regular routine maintenance that assists in reliable machine performance. scheduling daily, weekly, monthly and 6 monthly checks daily maintenance: SPI, outside cleaning, oil level check 6 monthly maintenance: oil changing (if color of oil changes then also oil is changed.

A Preventive maintenance schedule as per attached list is being practiced. The preventive maintenance schedule has been prepared by referring the Engineers Manual of the supplier and consultation with the Engineers of respective machine suppliers.

Preventive maintenance check list are fixed in each machine to ensure maintenance schedule.

2. production.

breakdown maintenance

Unanticipated maintenance activity resulting in stoppage of machine and

10 different mechanisms for 10 different lines Line mechanic checks the machine very often and rectifies

the problem and takes supervisors sign over it. This will be carried out by the maintenance team of the company and recorded. Suppliers manual is available in the plant in case guidance is required. In the event of major breakdown which the company cannot handle, it will be informed to the suppliers service section. Minor adjustments, which operator can perform are listed out and the same will be attached on the stitching machines. Commissioning of the machines: All the machines are pre-set and completely assembled. As such minor adjustments are required for commissioning. Installation work has been done by authorized dealers of the respective machines and utilities. Manufacturers engineers from companies such as VI.BE.MAC. , JUKI, BROTHER, SUNSTAR, PEGASUS, PFAFF, EASTMAN, GGT, also visit our plant to provide necessary assistance for maintenance and procurement of spare parts. Generator Maintenance: Generator commissioning has been done by the authorized dealer.

All the maintenance manuals of generator are available at the plant. Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.

Compressor Maintenance: Commissioning work has been done by the authorized dealer. Maintenance work has been carried out by the supplier. Company has entered a service contract with authorized service agency.

Consumables: Consumables mainly used are needles, knives and oils. These are changed either after breakage or by observing that they are blunt or otherwise not functional. Needle systems used for different machines are as per attached list.

Spare parts availability For single needle and double needle machines of Brother and Juki no spare parts are kept in stock because the dealer is there in Bangalore itself and whenever a problem arises the dealer is called for rectification and spare parts. For special machines of V.I. B.E. Mac spare parts are kept as the dealer is not in Bangalore. The machines are imported from Japan. Spare parts replacement

Broken parts are brought to the department and the machine number is written which is unique for every machine in the factory. The reason and rectifiers name is recorded and the spare part is given for replacement. New defrix no.1 colorless oil is used. When this oil changes color or turns yellowish or reddish then it is replaced. Needle replacement procedure: When a needle breaks all the parts of the broken needle are collected and taped together and then only the production starts. Incase of missing broken needle part: Red bin- every garment in that area are kept in a bin and passed through the needle detector. And when the needle part is detected, then only the production starts.

Process Flowchart for Job work from Outside Get Order Copy from PPC Get following: Embroidery Approved Swatch Pre & Post Wash Wash Thread Details Thread Consumption Stitches Details Placement Negotiate Rate and Booked capacity with vendor Release Job order to Vendor Check Planning of Style with PPC Get Placement Pattern from Sampling Handover the sample to Quality Handover Pattern, B/W & A/W to Quality Plan to Vendor (Embroidery/Printing) F/up with Cutting /Finishing Sec. for plan Arrange to Dispatch for Embroidery/Printing F/up with Vendor for Delivery Handover to Respective Depts. Get Invoice from Vendor with details & Bal. thread Reconcile and forward to A/c for payment Print/Shade Detail Placement Printing Approved Swatch Pre & Post

OBJECTIVE : 1. 2. To train the raw hands through Advance Training centre with To upgrade the skill index for all the operators to 3

thorough recruitment and training procedures. operations/operator. To ensure the operator achieves minimum of 25% of the target before tranferring to the production line. Flow chart Collection of personal details from the applicants

Conduct recruitme nt test

Company briefing is done

Training for machine control

Basic training is imparted Training on production pcs & Performance is monitored

Depute to the batch & do Capacity / Performance Study

Training graphs are plotted as per operation The recruitment of the training operators is done straight away without any experience or any test. These all operators are trained in the training line. If a new person comes, then that person is trained in the training line for a period of month and then these operators are send to work ont eh special machines like tag attachment, bar tacking, pocket hem, etc which require very less manual skills. There after these operators are used in the usual machines according to the kill of the operator. For an experienced operator, the training supervisor conducts a test and according to the performance of the operator, a machine is allocated to the operator. During the training period, 14 paper exercises and 14 fabric exercises are conducted. Usually every month approximately 40-50 operators join the company.

MANAGEMENT INFORMATION SYSTEM DEPARTMENT The MIS (Management Information System) team or department comprises of 2 people only. This team tracks down everything in terms of rupees i.e. money and tracks how accurate a person is on panning. They check that what is the amount of inventory going into the system and is it in accordance to the output achieved. If in flow is more than out flow, then the alerts are send to the person responsible. In inventory management the main problem is the fabric surplus. When the fabric consumption is being calculated the pattern master plays safe from his side and keeps the consumption more than actually what is required. Then the merchandiser also plays safe and adds on some amount from his side to the consumption. This way a huge amount of fabric is being ordered in surplus. So the problem arises to maintain its inventory. The main functions of the MIS department are: Check the amount of inventory and if any problem is there then inform the higher authorities about it. Conduct monthly review or meeting over the monthly report of the financial matters. It mainly gives information to the upper levels about what is going on in the lower levels. They interpret information into the language which is understandable by the top management. The board of directors give a target, an this is the MIS team which checks that what is the budget, how much has been spent, the actual costing of the garment, etc.

The MIS goes through the procurement process. They do the recovery in terms of trims, fabric and money. The software Orapps helps this department out in collecting the required information. If anything goes above limit then this department generates an alarm and checks that particular department. They give the crisp of everything to the higher management, i.e. the information in terms of percentage. The higher management comprises of the CEO, one GM operations and two Marketing Managers. In this department everything revolves around numbers. They also make profit and loss statement of the mill. The role of MIS starts as soon as the order is received. They also do the costing in order to cross check the costing given by the merchants. The finance department records the numbers and the MIS department interprets it. They tell that the data is correct or not. And sometimes they also tell that what can be the alternatives and possible solutions to the various problems. The whole data is entered in the Orapps and at the end of the day the back up is created and this is send to the Ahemdabad head office. These back ups are created at certain intervals during the day and at these times the system goes slow. MIS is mainly for interpreting and reporting the information to the upper management.

Oraps is oracle application software. It acts as a link between the different departments. With the help of this software the tracking of the order from fabric till dispatch can be done. This is a common server based program which has its server in Naroda where the back up of every data through out the day is kept at the end of the day. There are two ERP packages in this program: Oracle (SQL) and Developer 2000 D2K Sap (not used in Bangalore unit)

Developer 2000 is front end tool software which uses Oracle as the back end tool to store data. This software mainly collects different data from different departments and interprets it. All the queries generated by the users are also answered in the form of reports In this software every user is given user keys and appropriate rights to do entries and make changes in the data. These rights are defined by the Administrator. Arvind has their own software team at Naroda whose 2 representatives are here in Bangalore. If there is any requirement of any change in the software, his team comes from Naroda and finalizes the project. But for any minor changes the two representatives are enough.