Wood 127 2000 10

the edittrr's
a new series article gonna'like we thinkyou're

Bill Hug,the first guest expert in our new series really of articles, knowshis way aroundthe wood lathe.
No. 17, 2000 0CTOBER . Vol. N0.7' lssue 127

CLAYT0I'| EditorLARRY Editor HARROLD JIM Managing PETER Editor/Features J. STEPHAN0 Managing Assistant R. Editor JAMES D0WNING Design Senior KRIER EditorBILL Projects SVEC EditorJANHALE Projects EditorDAVE CAMPBELT Products Editor Techniques JIMPOLLOCK l. HEDLUN0 Designer GHARLES Manager/Prolect Shop BOYIE KEVI!l Builder Design Editor/Proiect Assistant CIOSNER MARGARET Manager Production/0ftice MUNYot'l SHERYL Assistant Administrative HELPS BARBARA Otfice Secretary Art Business BEI'l Reader-Contact Specialist VONRUDEN [0RNA J0HNSON, KIM Editors DOWNING, Contributing 0DE, CARSON LeM0lNE, R0XANNE DAVE B0BMcFARHN, HENDERSON JIM Craftsman HEAVEY Contributing MASINI Direclor DANIEL Creative A. CHERYL CIBULA An Assistant Director HAGEN MARK Publisher WILL Director MURPHY Advertising KEMiIET MARLEN Manager and Sales Internet Ancillary Ave., 1500, Oftice: N.Michigan Suite 333 Advertising FAX: ?58G7906 Phone: 312853'2890 31 lL Chicago,60601 DAKIS CARoLYN Advertising Response Direct LEE YUWEI Executive Account RON Executive G0LMINAS Account Manager HUGHES JIM Advertising LEGASPI Manager GERALLIE Marketing TRAVIS MARGARET Assistant Sales R. DirectorWILLIAM REED Publishing PAT Manager HENDERSHOTT Services Advertising LIZ Director BREDESON Marketing Consumer PRIEN KATHI Director Marketing Associate Consumer HONOLD DAVE Manager Marketing Assistant Consumer FEAR Manager CRAIG Business RICK Product Manager GROW Senior PUBLISHING GROUP MEBED]TH M.LITTLE CHRISTOPHER President WARD JERRY Publishing Director VicePresident DELATHOUDER ELLEN Services Creative HESION BRUCE Manutacturing KARLA JEFFBIES Marketing Consumer KAPI-AN Sales JERRY Group PIETERS DEAN Operations MAX Finance Adminisfation RUNCIMAN and
cola we're introducing brand-new Beginningwith this issue, umn titled "Be Our Guest(Expert)."To kick things off, we're featuringBill Hug, a talentedguy who hasturnedmore than in 5,000vessels the last 18 years,many of them using exotic woods. wonderful-looking he'd be a natural We thoughtthat with all of Bill's experience, to sharesomeof his turning wisdom with you (and us). If you take a look at page 18,you'll find out what his sevenfavorite turning woodsare as well as four typesof woodsthat give him trouble.In addition.he lists woods that often give woodworkersa rash,and tells aboutseveral woodsthat startout beautiful,but then disappoint when they oxidize. in If you have expertise a particularwoodworkwho has,write ing subject,or you know someone "Be Our Guest(Expert)," WOODa magazine, to IA GA310,DesMoines, 1716LocustStreet, We'd be glad to hearfrom you. 50309-3023.
renew your subscri-ption
and get five free project Plans!

the Thoseof you who haveaccessto the lnternetcan now eliminate hassle notice and check each time you renewyour subof mailingin a renewal Simplylog onto www. woodonline.com to scription WOODmagazine. you get to print five free Upon renewing, and click SUBSCRIPTIONS. downloadableproject plans as a gestureof our appreciation. filled newsletter sign up for our bi-monthly when at wooD oNLINE@, with the latestonline happeningsand registerfor our monthlytool check or sweepstakes our free dowloadablewoodworkingplans. Finally, indexfor a completelisting WOODmagazine out our onlinesearchable of our projects,techniques,and tool reviews.JF
^lUleredtlh
I conposlrroru
Officer Executive President ChieJ and T. WILLIAM KERR,

Committee lll, of E. T, MEREDITH Chairman the Executive 2000 OCopyrightMeredithCorporation in Printed the U.S.A. All rightsreserved. WOODo magazine(ISSN-0743Better Hontes and Gardens@ 894X) is publishednine times a year in February,March' April' October, November,and May/June,July/August,September, Deiember by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust St'' Des Moines, IA-50-309-3023. Periodicals postage paid at Des mailingoffices.BetterHomesand Moines,Iowa, and additional Gardenstrademark registeredin Canadaand Australia. Marca Resistrada en Mdxico. ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION $27; Canada,$39; other PRICES: U.S. and its possessions, Mail SalesProduct countries,$47. CanadaPost Publications Asreement No. 1369350.Canadian BN 12348 2887RT. CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS: BetteT Homes and Gardens WOOD magazine, 2744 Edna Street, Windsor, to changes Ontario.N8Y lV2. POSTMASTER: Sendaddress P'O. Box 37439' BetterHomesand GardensWOOD magazine,
contactwww.wood' Customer Service Information: For serviceon your subscription,including changeof address, magazine.com/service or call 800/374-9003. SirUscription-mailing address: Better Homes and Gardens WOOD mafarine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone. IA 50037-0439. Piease enclose your address label from a recent issue.Editorial lT16LocustStreet.GA3 l0,DesMoines. IA50309-3023.ForquesTheEditor, WOOD magazine, mailingaddness: in tions f6r our editorial staff. questionsabout how to reach an advertiser,or to place an advertisement our magazine call 800/374-9663. To ordei back issues call 800/346-9663. For article reprints. write to the editorial address and enclose$5 per article.
IA Boone, 50037-0439.
I
WOOD magazine
,lP^l
October 2000
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WOODo mdgoztne
this issus's
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2000 lssue127 October www.woodmagazine.com
proiects
54 sliding tableadd-on
wopdWnrking
jig t6 greatideas: ball-drilling

Use this simple project to bore perfectly centered holes in woodenballs.
Improveyour tablesaw'scrosscutting capacitywith this well-engineered workshopaccessory.
page 54
Shaker-style blanket chest

Createa family heirloomwith this handsome, fullsize storagepiece. Featuresinclude eye-catching box joints, two accommodatingdrawers, and a profile molding along the base. wraparound
jig 66 big-time box-joint

Machineclean,accurate, joints in large solid box stock or plywood panelswith this handy clampon router fixture.
74 clockwork underglass
Apply your craftsmanship this exquisitetall to clock. Large glasspanelsframedin walnut provide a clear view of the brassmovbmentwithin.
page 66
80 toy floatplane
Take off with this classicdesign,then give your favoritejunior pilot something smile about. to
page 74
bits 22 dovetail
H?'L+ial"
Rout snug-fittingdovetailjoints with thesespecialcutters.
Get an accurate reading on the moisture content of your hardwoods and softwoods with one of the 10 shop-tested meters found here.
70 dampness detectives
86 quick-change artists
Speedthe process when changingdrill bits by soupingup your portabledrill with one of theseshop-tested add-onchucks.
sl
productsthat perform
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Page 86 continuedon page6
Cover photograph: Baldwin Photography
This issue's cover wood grain: buckeye WOOD magazine October 2000
highlights
this issue's
Continued from page 5
WOODomogdzine
2000 lssue127 October
www.woodmagazine.com
tgBnftoues
30 makenewfurniturepartsfrom old
See how we copied an existing furniture part to make a new part that blendsright in. replacement
34 tips flom yourshopand ours 43 how to glue up a perfectpanel

Learn a surefre way to make long-lasting,solid-stockpanels from contributingcraftsmanJim Heavey.
68 how to cut largebox joints

Seehow easyit is to rout sizeablebox joints using the jig featuredon page 66.
featunes
2 I l4
page 84
page 43
the editor's angle talkingback wood-wide web business sideof woodworking:

Discoverthe many ways in which the internetand having an online store goods. can help you sell your hand-and machine-made
18 insights from a woodturning master

Find out from an expertwhich turning woodswork best.
m n
WOOD ONLINEo hot off the internet

for SeeArizona woodturnerGalenCarpenter's approach forming beautifulcreationsfrom wedgesof wood.
4g segmented bowlsfrom Sedona

page 68
84 masterfulwalkingsticks
Meet five folk artistswho begantheir craft by providing help for others.
97 wood anecdote:rcd alder

When this wood goesup in smoke,there'susually fish nearby.
ll2 finishing touches
WOOD magazine
October 2000
-l
tmilkilrt
your Back criticisms, Talking We welcome comments, yes, W00Dmagazine even compliments, suggestions, and 1716 Locust GA310 St., only of Weselect publish letters the and greatest lA DesMoines, 50309-3023 to Write benefit ourreaders. to:
A safer grooving cut
Mobile mitersaw center update

Severalreadersnoted an error in the Bill of Materials for the of Mobile MitersawCenterin Issue119.The thickness the as sawtables(Q) shouldbe t3/to" shownbelow. in assistance laying out the two Readers alsohaverequested sheets plywood for this project.Here's a completecutting of diagram.
Bill of Materials
Finished Size L T w
Part
L
3/qx 31/zx 24" Pine
in In buildingthe NestingKnockouts Issue121,I followed the directionsas given exceptfor cutting the slat groovein the rails (B). The rails for the small tableare passing these only 63A"long, and I was not comfortable I piecesover the dadoinserton my tablesaw. cut the preces groovesin all the rails first, using two 3/cx2x24" I for the small tablerails. After forming the grooves, cut thesepiecesto length. -Robert Mueller. Mich. Menominee,
tables Q saw
t3Aa" 1 0 1 / r o 3134a"
B/L 2
Glock finish reuealed

After receiving a number of inquiries, we asked SeniorDesign Editor Jim Downing to elaborateon the finish usedon the maple Shakertall clock kit he built in Issuel23.Here is his process. Make 16 Sandthe wood with 150-gritsandpaper. oz. of dye, mixing one part TransTintDark Mission Brown no. 128486and two partsTransTintReddish according the directions. to Brown no. 128483, TransTint aniline dyes are availablefrom Woodcraft, call 8001225-1153. Thin 4 oz. of the dye mixture, I part dye to 3 parts water, and apply with a foam brush.This raisesthe Let grain and showsany glue smudges. the thinned coat dry overnight and sand with 220-grit sandpaper. Now coat the wood with the full-strength mixture, dye with a cleanrag. Let dry wiping up any excess Finish with 320-gritsandpaper. overnightand sand with two coatsof Olympic Antique Oil no. 41004, following the directionson the can. Let the finish dry for 24 hours,apply pastewax with 0000 steelwool, and buff with a cleancottoncloth.
Vqx 5Y2x 48" Birch
3 / q x 7 Y ax 9 6 " B i r c h
3/q 48 x 96" Birch plywood x
MORTISEDETAIL (right rearleg)

3/a"
/ | r/16
Thble dimensions don't add up

A readercalledto tell us that Ve"went AWOL from the Mortisedetail on the Nesting Knockouts Issue121.See in the correcteddetail at left.
Continued on puge I2
3/+x48 x 96" Birchplywood
WOOD magazine
October 2000
tmEkfrnffi,
Continued.f'ront puge 8
The great metric debate, part two

letterin TalkingBack, With reference Melvin Brzostek's to Issue122,manypeopleadvocate of the metricmeasureuse manipulation. ment systemto facilitatemathematical of in Conversions measurements inchesare not a problemif you work in decimalsand not fractions.It doesnot take much of effort to becomefamiliar with the decimalequivalents in fractions. You mustthink of dimensions inchesanddeciwhich are,by their mals,ratherthan inchesand fractions, nature,hard to manipulate. -William Dettmer, Ga. Crescent,
Our designers know what you're talking about, Bill, because they use decimal equivalents when drawing with their CAD program. Here's the conversion chart they keep handy.
Tiwo tips on wrestling with rust

As a retiredmillwright and part-timefarmer,I've had a few experiences with rusty bolts.My bestsolutionis pouring white vinegaron the bolt. The vinegarquickly penetrates the threads and rust.
-Gordon Greniger, Grand Rapids, Minn.
AskWOODo in Issue123 givesadviceon freeingrusted in bolts. I own a construction companythat specializes steel and run into this predicabuildingsand reinforcedconcrete ment often.To loosena rustedbolt, I heatit with a torch until it is red hot, then quickly cool it with cold water.il -Roy Hester, Macon, Ga.
12
WOOD magazine
October 2000
%#ffiffidwrmrk$rxffi
Wood-lvide internet
Barker justbea partmay l\ /Tunt IYltime woodworker Charlotte, in
North Carolina, hometown, yet the his marketfor what he makesis the world. With a little moxie and a lot of research, turnedhis website, he Martyswoodshop.com, the primary into outletfor his sideline business sellof ing woodenwriting sets, boxes, humidors, shelves, and othersmallgift items.Besides operating boothat one a outdoorcraft fair eachyear,he makes all the restof his sales online.
The opens for a worldof options selling yourwoodworking
That haspaid off by puttinghim amongthe top 50 siteswhen visitors entersearch termslike "woodworkers" or "humidors."Marty learned aboutsitepromotionmainly online,he says,enteringthe term "site promotion"into search engines, surfingthe results. and
,-$
thinssWindsor-chair related. Windsorchairresource includes s.com links to chairmakers well as as inquiriesfrom would-bebuyers.
Expand new business horizons

For Marty Barker,the web serves mainly as a convenience. for Beth But Antonsen,an art-furnituremakerin Ketchikan, Alaska,it's more a matter going.After her of keeping business furnitureshecouldto sellingall the doctors, lawyers, and otherprofessionals in the hill-hugging coastal town of 13,000, launched site, she her bethantonsen.com, January find last to new markets.Her first inquiry came from Korea,and shethinks her furniture styleactuallymay play betterin Asia thanAlaska. Pennsylvania Windsorchair builder PeterWallacesees site,Windsorhis chair.com, mainly as an online brochure."With traditionaladvertising, it's very time consuming answer to a response sittingdown, writing a letby ter, and thenenclosing brochure," a "Every year I probaPetercomments. my bly change line about60 percent with new pieces. much easier-and It's lesscostly-to put new photographs on the websitethan to redo a brochure." Peteralsoutilizesa reference website, a sortof onlineencyclopedia all of
Credit cards cost money

Peterdoesn'taccept credSurprisingly, it cards,as do most all websites in e-commerce. Instead, collectsa he checkas depositwhen someone orders paymentin full before and anotheras But shipping purchase. woodworkthe ers like Marty Barker,who take orders for smaller-ticket itemsboughton impulse, usuallyneedto accept credit cardsfor electronicpayment,even thoughit coststhema little money. generally Creditcardcompanies chargefeesrangingfrom two to five percent the transaction of amount, losing according Marty. And despite to to one fraudulent transaction $200 from EasternEurope,the North Carolinacraftsman saysthe siteand creditcardsare still worthwhile."l tried a print catalog, my products but kept changing the time," he adds. all "So evenif I just usemy website a as catalog, paysto haveit."lP it
Written by Jack Neff, a Batavia, Ohio, business writer and author of How to Make Your Woodworking Pay for ltself. lllustration: Stevenson Jim
A crafts show that never closes

For woodworkers like Marty, the World-Wide Web hasturnedinto a sort of non-stop craftsshow.Even woodworkerswho makeexpensive furniture and don't take ordersonline find the Web a valuable marketing tool. For as little as $200to $300to start,and $20 to $50 a monthto maintain,a websitecan be an interactive brochure that never getsoutdated doesn'trequireany and postage reachthousands people. to of Marty got about8,000visitsto his website the first yearfollowing setup in in April 1999.Because many visitors simplye-mailquestions him about to differentwoodsand woodworking, he's addeda section his siteon to wood selection help answer to them. Yet, he alsohassold several thousand dollarsworth of goods.And Marty monthlyresubmits new information abouthis site to internetsearch engines, suchas Yahooand Altavista.
14
WOOD magazine
October 2000
{,ii+*,#'e.reR $#"ffiffiffi
a simple design for a special task

The tall clock project on poge 74 calls for drilling perfectly centered holes in hardwood balls. While you can hold a ball securelyin a wood handscrew, centeringit under the bit on your drill pressis difficult. Solve both problems with this quickto-build jig. To make it easy to clamp the jig to your drill press,make the length of the base the same as the width of your drill-presstable. Drill the counterboredholes for the carriage bolts and the large holes in the
lllustration: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson Photograph: Baldwin Photography
base andcap.(SeetheJig Hole Guide Insert boltsand on the drawing.) the center jig by lowering bit back the the into the hole,andholdingit therewhile you clampthejig to your drill-press Place ball overthe hole,slide table. the the cap down on the protruding carriagebolts,and tightenit onto the ball with washers wing nuts.Chuckin and the properbit and drill away.i
W O O D m a g a z i n e O c t o b e r2 0 0 0
be our guest expert
woodturning
from a insiohts
master
(Cocobolo, problems, sneezing Kingwood, African blackwood, etc.)
(Black, Claro, European)
nose, throat and
no other way to say it: The turnings fhere's I from Bill Hug's lathe are breathtakingly beautiful.Since 1979,this Athens,Georgia, woodturnerhas createdmore than 5,000 pieces from more than 100 speciesof wood, many of them exotic. As Bill works with different kinds of wood. he keepsnoteson the characteristics each of one and takesphotos.According to.him, some species, suchas lignum vitae and someebonies, are impossibleto cut on a tablesawor with hand tools, but work successfullyon a lathe. In the accompanying tables,Bill sharessomeof his discoveries.i
Black limha
Zatre
Prized many for uses, especially wellpieces. figured
lmbuya
Brazil
walnut Looks black like wa with finegrain great and
Brazil Santos rosewood
More brown ofier rosewoods, fian wih a somewhat stipe. wider
yet to Europe Hard heavy, easy work. and Spanish Olive Southern Can display tangle darkstripes a of against tanbackground. a
Highly figured wood Roughturn piece turnit again. the and lf he piece outorwarps, it sitand tears let furn again it'sstable. it when
Extremely wood Use hard utmost andpatience, tools care keep gouging sharp, avoid and wood.
(padauk) Shrbasbright witt Vermillion orange
white and spob, changes toa
Osage orange
Spechcular yellow dear dims to yellow orange yellow or brown.
"Be Our Guest Expen" gives accompli shed woodworker s a chnnce to share insights into their particulnr areas of expertise. If you'd like to be our guest,or know someonewho would, write to "Be Our Guest Expert," WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust Street, GA3I0, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023.
WOOD magazine
October 2000
tU@@DoNLrNt
How to make friends andinfluence rkers woodwo other

woodworking a solitary is I ttfrougtr ^{-I troUUy mostof us. thereare for waysto enjoyyour hobbywith others. Hundreds woodworking of clubsacross the countryoffer folks like us the opportunity to share tips, learnfrom experts, and evenhavesomeeoodold-fashioned fun. If you'reinterested joining a club, in projects a from starting club, seeing otherclubs,or promotingthe meeting datesand activities your own club, of Members the DesMoines checkout the WOODworkingClubs of (lowa) Woodworking Club section underCOMMUNITY at the participate an annual in WOOD ONLINE homepage.Nearly potluck dinnerandshowin to and-tell addition regu- 200 clubshavebuilt a free homepage lar meetings, seminars, and in this section-it's easyto do.
fieldtrips.
Havean opinionon moisture meters or quick-connect drill If you would like to offer your accessories, our or own feedback the reviewsof reviewsof them in to Thenbe moisture meters quick-con- this issue? or heardonline.
Get the \ on Internet where toolreviews a are street two-way
..+
lllt*-=*'
nectdrill accessories this in
issue, you're in luck. Now you can share your tool experienceswith us and other woodworkers immediately and directly. No letters, no postage. And if you have tool-related questions for other you'll most likely get a online participants, responsewithin a day. We'll also encouragemanufacturers to share their opinions of our reviews, and add any information on new or updated tools. www.wo odrnagazine. com/ taW
Here's tipt a Learn anf earnin this webgroup

It's a fact-woodworkers love shoptips. No wonder then,that one of the mostfrequently visitedspotsat WOOD ONLINE is the Woodworking Tips Discussion Group.You canreadhundreds woodworking of tips posted by folks just like yourself.Or, you might line your pocketwith somecashif we publish your online tip in WOODa magazinaWe pay tips,and if your tip is cho$75 for published senas the Top ShopTip, you'll win a tool prize worth at least$250.t www.woodmagazine. co m,/ talJr/
www. wo o dtnagazine. com/sc g7woodc lub/
Free tools?You'll them find here

Eachand everymonthwe give awaya fi'eepowertool at WOOD ONLINE. To be eli-eible a prize,all you haveto do is stopin and for register. You can takepart in the sweepstakes everymonthby simply your usernameand password. re-entering Over the pastfew years, between monthlygiveaways special our and woodworking-show sweepstakes, we've madeover a hundred woodworkersquitehappywith everything from tablesaws cordless to drills. Hereareiusta few recent winners:
January:
Tim Anderson, Maplewood, Minn., Bosch Jigsaw.
ffi ru
Februaryi
William Croft, Wooster, Ohio, Bosch Random-OrbitSander.
March:
Mike Sistek, Scott Air Force Base, lll., Bosch Power Handsaw.
www.woodmagazine.com/members/toolsweeps.html
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WOOD magazine October2000
router bit
r8vrsw
box, to of as the dovr For centuries, hand-cut rtailjointhasstood a testament thequality thecase, woodbits, to and it. c that or drawer beheld Theselays,thanks routers dovetail evena beginning projects. the this I worker incorporate jointto enhance simplest can
Dovetail bits come in an array of cutting angles-usually 7-14"-and heights(seephoto,below),on both %" and Vq"shanks.Generally speaking,the greaterthe cutting angle, the stronger : i ! i i which is formed by two rails. Pins and tails are often confused,but there's an easyway to rememberwhich is which. If you look at the face of the workpiece protrusions, and seebirdtail-shaped are tails; if you seerectangles, those you're looking at pins. The tails bearthe brunt of thejoint's stress,so when planning your project, point the tails in the direction of the For stress. example,openingand closing a drawer createsfront-to-rear stress on the drawer. Therefore,point the tails front and rear, which meanscutting the socketsin the drawer sides. Here in the WOODo magazineshop, we like to cut the socketsfirst, about Vzz"deeperthan the thicknessof the pins, using a dovetailbit in our router table.Then, using a straightbit, we form the pins, leavingthemjust a hair This lets us wider than the sockets. gradually remove more stock from the pins until we get a good fit. Oncethe joint is complete,we sandthe tails flush with the pins. Making well-fitting dovetailjoints in boxesor drawersrequiresa high degreeof precision.That's why you'll jigs on the find a covey of commercial market today, eachdesignedto simplify cutting the pins and socketswith bits. Less-expensive bearing-guided jigs make only half-blindjoints, where the dovetails are visible only from one side of the joint. With pricier models, you can cut through-dovetails, where
Continued on page 24
ff
the joint. But beware:The acute angles on the tails make them more fragile as the cutting angleincreases, they and can break more easily along the grain. Because its opposing-wedge of action,a properlyfitted dovetailjoint This meansyou can useit self-tightens. suchas screws to eliminatefasteners, or nails. You shouldstill glue the joint, but you won't needclamps.
How to tell your pins from your tails

You'll seethe threebasicpartsof every dovetailjoint in the Partsof a Dovetail Joint drawing at right.The pin is the part that fits into the socket,
22
WOOD magazine
October 2000
fl{}il".Fq F" t*:'ri.t i:*j

puge 22 Corttirtuerl .fi"orn
both sidesshow (seeCommon Corner Joints drawing, belorr).
Beyond the box: Let it slide

ji-us, Even without the use of expensive yoll can use dovetail bits to make other joints. For examstrong zrndattractive ple. use a lon-edovetail slot (socket) inside a bookcuseor entertainlnet'tt c e n t e r .t h e n m a c h i n ea l o n g t a i l o n each end of a shelf. as shown belotr joint. besidesaddin-e leli. The resultin-e beauty to the case.also keeps the case don't sidesfrom bowin-9.And. if yor"r -eluethe shelf in place, you can rcmove or replaceit at any tirne. d O r . u s e a s l i d i n - q o v e t a i lj o i n t insteadof a str"rb tenon for making rail and stile panels,as shown Ltelotrle.fi. t Y o u ' l l s t i l l w a n t t o - e l u e h ej o i n t . b u t again. yoll won't need clamps for this are assen-rbly. Just be sure yoLu'panels in place prior to -eluingthe frame. slidin-sdovetails: One tip for cr,rtting The taperedsidesof the dovetail slot tend to trap chips in the slot as you cLlt. So precut the slot with your tablesaw, or a router and a straightbit, as shown belrnr. to remove as much material as yoLrcan before routing the dovetail. If pre-cuttingproves impractical.proceed s l o w l y w i t h t h e d o v e t a i lb i t , b a c k i n g i t completely out of the cut fiequently to clear chips and debris from the slot.
A couple more key uses

As yor.rcan see frorn the drawin-u beknr, dovetail keys add decoration and function to any number of joints. piece of The kcl is an hour-elass-shaped stock, often made from a contrasting that createsa mechanicaljoint species. between two flat surfaces. Before cutting the key sockets,mill a the same dovetail long key blank usin-e bit. Then, set up the socket cuts in scrap to ensurea ,eoodfit. Slice individual keys frorn the blank (about %:" the than the socket).assernble lon-eer joint. tap the keys into place. then sand thern flush with the workpiece.JF
Written Dave Campbell with Chuck Hedlund by Baldwin Photography Photographs: Drawinqs: Brian Jensen
24
tre internet
in of and Note: have We all edited entries theinterest brevity clarity preserving intentof theoriginal message. 1pinions while the participants. here of expressed arethose ouronline
l-what they call whitewood. Just what is this? | bought some to make shelves for my wife and picked the straightest boards I could find. By the time I made the shelves, they were crowned even more than those that I rejected at the home center.
-W. C.Turnef Hopkinsville, Ky o W.C., at my local Home Depot, the whitewoodsectioncontainslumber that is stamped with its species name.It will
What is whitewood? Depot sell I owesandHome
pine) or PP be eitherLP (lodgepole that could be any number of pine soft(ponderosa pine). I have neverseen woodsfeaturinga light color. -HowardAcheson, Asheville, C. N. unstamped softwoodat this store. The grade of wood is somethingelse you needto be awareof when purchasing wood. Read R. Bruce Hoadley's Understanding Wood from Taunton Press.You can order this book at your local book store.At www.amazon.com plus shipping. the book sellsfor $24.46, It will tell you all you need to know about purchasingwood. Incidentally, Lowes' whitewood, according to a spokesperson, a form of white pine is
What's the best uray to stop burn marks in cherrV?

Cr omeone told D *" I should adjust my tablesaw fence so the back of the blade is t/se"further away than the front of the blade to keep it from burning cherry as I cut it. Should I always make cuts with the fence on the same side of the blade? ! I i i i i i i ; i i r I usea Freud GlueJointrip blade andu leaves ecige hasno marks an that whatsoever.cutshardwoods It effortlessly almost and noiselessly, It too. does crosscut not well,but is not designed this,either. havecut a for I lot of cherryon my Craftsman contractor sawandhave only a few had instances burning. think yourblade I of is thecause, youarefeeding or the woodtoo slowly,or both.Try replacal locations.Now do the samewith the saw blade. Crank the blade all the way up, then measurefrom the miter slot to just inside the teeth on the front and back of the blade. Turn the blade a quarter of a turn and measurefrom the miter slot to the front and back of the blade again. Keep doing this until you completea full rotation of the blade. If there is variation in the measurement. then the blade might be bent or the arbor is out of alignment.Now run a piece of cherry or other wood through the saw; if the wood burns again check to seeif the fence is still parallel. Sometimesthe fence will move when you rip a piecebecause is not it anchoredproperly. If the wood still burns, then get a dedicatedrip blade. -John Minichiello, Fairport, N.Y.
i ing your blade with a dedicatedripping
if i bna" of highqualityandsee the ; burning stops.

--Hugh Hadfield, Fairview Heights, lll,
Whichshould I adjust:the blade i or the fenceto be t/sz" further i
the is away? By the wdy, I have the i r Firstmakesure fence parallel Ridgid tablesaw, the one with i with theblade. Lock thefence place in *d measure distance the cast-iron wings. the from the i -PhilPeterson, Paint,lnd.fenceto oneof themiterslotsat severCrown i
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WOOD magazine
October 2000
E internet
Itr
Urgently seeking a way to remove candle wax

n 11y daughterburnedsome lUl candles and left wax on my wood dresser-no finish,just stained-and I'm afraidto scrapeit off for fear of leaving scratchmarks.I havea large Any areaof dried candlewax. suggestions?
- Corinne Palos Davidsan, Verdes, Calif.
r Try putting ice on the wax. The cold will make it hard and shrink it slightly. This may be enoughto loosen it so that
can You merelY t:; ffi; ", ftamon, catir.
r Use someturpentineto soften the wax so you can take it off. It won't harm any finish, except a "wax finish." *Mac Simmons, Massapequa, N.Y
Build a seruiceable router table from materials you have on hand

completedconstructinga I iust I router table and wanted to share my procedure.lf you have ever wanted a router table, but thought everythingout there was too small or too expensiven here's what I did. First, I made the carcase out ol 2x4s to give it strength and mass. This cost about $18. Next, I made a douplywood ble-thick top out of 3/+" 27x40" with a nice yellow Formicasurface.ljust happened to have these materials lying around. Most woodworkers will have access to these or get them free. Let's say the cost of these are $25. I wanted a quality router insert that hinged for ease of changing bits. I recommend the Excaliburmodel EXRTA.[SommervilleDesign has discontinuedthis product but a company representative says they plan to reintroduce a modified version by the time this article appears.Call 18.I 8A01357-41 The next step was to have a miter slot, I bought an aluminum miter track for $15. My fence is home-constructedfrom scrap materials.That's it! A huge router table that doubles as a tablesawextensiontable for $150.I looked for six years before building this project in only a weekend.
(800/635-3 416),installedan external power switch, and addeddust collection. There are lockablecasters the on standthat let it move in my small shop and also be usedlike yours as a tablesaw extension table.I did build my fencefrom someoak lumber I pur*DavidB.Gessner, The fenceis facedwith sliding Seattle chased. panelsmadefrom doublelayersof Vz" o I mademy routertable last year for Baltic birch plywood facedwith the about$10 in materials. The tabletop samelaminateas the top. They slide was a dumpster-diving find, so my on T-Bolts. I took the basicfence costswere for the 2x4s to hold it designfrom one of the routerbooksin to together,screwsand a few buckspaid my library and madesmall changes mv to a glassshopfor a Vt" acrylicbase accommodate 36x24" table. plate for the router. It is definitely of Pa. Bensalem, JimBecket the "glue and screw" side of woodworking-no fine caseworkthere.And r My shopis small (12x20'),so everyjob. it ain't pretty,but it doesa good thing hasto be mobile.I built my Looking back, I would buy Vz"acrylic routertable into my tablesawassemplasticinstead the t/+" of .lhave a small bly. First, I movedthe right table routerso it isn't a problem,but if I buy extension the extremeleft whereit to fits nicely.In its place,I built my something bigger,it won't supportit. -Bill Schreiber. Litchfield, N.H. routertable of two 7+"MDF sheets with Formicatop, and fitted an extero I usedan old microwavestand/cabinal switch.This arrangement allows net for a supportstructure. saveda It me to usemy tablesaw fenceand lot of tirne and providedstorage. My miter slots.It alsogivesme a full 70" top is two layersof -74" MDF capped of tabletopsurface, and savesme with laminateand edgedwith someoak room in the shop.l -GlynHowell, strips.I usedthe Rousseau insert Fernie, B.C.
28
WOOD magazine
October 2000
-t
"dFAIFu$ihop
make new parts fromdld

With basictoolsand patience, you can re-create what time and wear havestolenaway
catcha glimpseof a wonderful V"" rocking chair at an auctionor in lold the back room of an antiquestore,and you get excited.When you look closer, disappointment in: One of the rockers sets is gone,or a slat, or a stretcher. Don't despair.A woodworkercan find a way to replacemost standard furniture partsandsomespecialized ones,too. In many cases, pieceof furniture the will have surviving pans that matchthe missingone.That's oftentrue with rockers,chair arms,knobs,or drawerpulls. Use one of thoseoriginals as a patternfor ftacing or measuring, we've donewith as the chair arm in the photoshere. you Sometimes canfiace a part without removingit. But if you haveto take it off, remember that denatured alcohol dissolveshide glue, commonlyusedin preWorld War tr furniture. Vinegar or wann water helpsdissolvethe white or yellow gluefoundin newerjoints. If the missingpart wasthe only oneof its kind, that's another story.You'll have guessaboutits to makean educated 'dimensions andappearance. design The of the furniture shouldoffer someclues. Varnishlinescansuggest missing the part'sbasicshape. Also, you might find photosor illusftationsof similar piecesin furniture reference books. Here's oneexampleof how to copy a part that still exists.We madean arrn to replacethe onethat wasmissingfrom the simplerocking chair shownabove.These basicstepsand Similarprocedures get will you throughmany suchrepairjobs. First,mill a pieceof stockthat'svery closeto the right thicknessand slightly oversized the areas in whereyou'll cut it to shape. Next, form the tenonthatjoins the arm to the chair's back. You candrill into mating piecesandjoin them with a joint by dowel,but you'll get a stronger cutting a tenon.We drilled into the end of our blank with a s/s"plug cutter mounted in the drill press,then cut awaythe waste at the bandsaw, shownfu\ow. as Carefully fracethe shapeof your template pieceonto your stockwith a sharp pencil. Cut closeto that line with a bandContinued on page 32
you've pinpointed rightlocation a tenon, milling Once quickly. the for the workgoes
WOOD magazine
October 2000
Dust free
Filter Inside
repair shop
Continuedfrom page 30
the furniture
woodworking
make new parts from trld
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Bandsaw closeenough traced to linesto keep yoursanding to a minimum. time
saw,asin the photoabove, thensandto the line with a drum sander. tapered We the arm at the stationarybelt sander. Filter Efficiency The biggestchallenge this repair was in 1-2microns99% 2-5 microns100% finding the correctanglefor the hole that over5 microns 100% post.Again, we receives support the 1001 Fayette W. (315)476-5151 (315)476-5044 relied upon the surviving arm. We placed NY13204 St. Phone Fax it on a tilting table on the drill press,and kept adjustingthe table angleuntil a sl" Forstnerbit ran smoothlyin and out of the hole. Then we put the new arm on the tableanddrilled a hole,as seenbelow.If you don't havean adjustable table,cut a wedgeof wood at the appropriate angleto supportthe workpiece. All that remainedwas to easethe edges with a /+" round-overbit in a router.A rubbermat on the workbenchheld the arm in placedtiring that operation.fl Written JimPollock BenVonRuden by with
Photographs: Baldwin Photography
properly It takes properly a sized, angled hole to produce long-lasting joint. a tenon
WOOD magazine
October 2000
tips
*h*s *xss"q*r
^4.
AsBrwf of hispeftnnance,Top ShW Tip winnerPaul Parter rcceires Hihrlri GI0FGD a dualbevel compound mibrsaw. Ttunks furfie lig Faul!
lShbil \tin7
Ltt
Seat-post haste inspires rapid router release
PaulFafiercrcsed a biryde seat p6t with a rurbr ald carm
upwith ttrisissn's Top Shop frp honorc. A fter earning his bachelor's degree from the .f-l,University of SouthwesternLouisiana and his master's from Texas A&M, Paul Parker's education is about to pay off. Sure, his job as a mechanical stressanalyst at Boeing in Houston, Texas, probably has its perks. But it was his senior project at USLbuilding a bicycle-that inspired the tip (at right) that won him this issue's Top Shop Tip tool pnze. "I don't do much woodworking myself, but when I do, I go over to my dad's place. He's got all the tools," he chuckles. Well, Paul, here's a mitersaw to get you started on your own shop. Thanks for the tip. You don't need to have a fancy diploma to win our Top Shop Tip honors, just a darned good idea. If we like your suggestion,we'll pay you $75 for it. If we really really like it, we could award you a tool prize worth at least $250. Send your tips, along with photos or sketchesand a daytime phone number to: Tips From Your Shop (and Ours) WOOD@Magazine 1716 Locust St, GA-310 Des Moines, IA 5030!r-3023 Or submit your tips online by posting them to our Top Shop Tip discussion group at www.woodmagazine.com. Sorry, but we can't return the materials you submit. And, we try to publish only original tips, so please send them only to WOOD magazine. Thanks!
While usingmy father'stable-mounted router recently,I grew frustrated with the height-locking knob.The routerusesa wing-boltand nut that clampsthe routerbaseto the motor,and I had to usea pliers to tightenand loosenthe bolt. Not an easytask,especially underthe table. So I replaced wing bolt and nut with a seat-post the quickreleasefrom a bicycle store,as shownbelow. (If you do this, makesureyou specifya seat-post quick-release, because the modelsdesigned attaching for wheelsare too long.) Slip the quick-release's skewerinto the base,and fingertighten the nut until the handlesticks straightout in the unlockedposition.That orientation important, is because the if handleis too high, locking it down could damage your router; if it hangs, cam won't hold fast. the
-Paul Parker, WebsteL Texas
This tip doesn't even begin to scratch the surface

When tacking the stops around a fragile pane of glass (in a cabinet door, for instance), it's not hard to scratch the glass, or worse yet, break it. To overcome this potential problem, I attach a piece of card stock to one side of my tack hammer with double-faced tape (as shown below). Not only does the card stock protect the glass, but by using different thicknesses, I can make the face of the hammer parallel to the nail head, lessening the likelihood of bending the nail. -R.8. Himes, Vienna,Ohio Tack hammer
WOODWORKINGPRODUCTS EDITOR
D'-fu(
Cardboard attached with double-faced tape

34
WOOD magazine
October 2000
tips
sn*t] .ffi=:;"ilr
A neat way to fill nail dimples
After I milled some custom oak molding, then stained and finished it to match the existing woodwork, I wanted to avoid the inevitable blemishes from wood filler used to hide countersunk finish nails. My solution: Place a small piece of masking tape at each point you want to nail. Drive and countersink nails through the tape,then apply wood filler. When you peel off the tape, you'll find a perfectly round spot, with no dulling of the surrounding area.This technique works anytime you need to nail prefinished wood.
-Jams Vasi, Williamsville, N. Y.
s0uRsfftE,YOu
GITGUSNOffiE]TIO ilIilPISO]PNUTGIS
Auriliary mitersaw fence goes beyond
450
placedon pegPoad thonghtfully
While installing cabinets, I neededto miter-cut some pieces to a 57" angle. Unfortunately,my mitersaw only goes to 45", so I had to find anotherway to get the angle. I made a jig in the shapeof a speedsquarefrom 34" plywood, and clamped it to my mitersaw fence, as shown below. My new auxiliary fence now allows me to cut anglesover 45o. The new fence is at a right angle to the saw's miter scale,so to get the correct angle,I subtracted (the angleI need57' ed) from 90". I then setthe miter angleto that difference(33"), clampedthe stock to the auxiliary fence,and cut.
-Sfeye Hodge, Alexander City, Ala.
]loblfts and crafts. Two craftprojects are

rarelythesame.The mwable side trEs are designedto adapt to best suit yourcunent prciect
Jig clampedto mitersawfence Stock clampedto jig
HoilE fixrp prutects.

Younarer krpnt wtrichtools you'llneedforthe nextfixrpjob. So we've provided5 draners and 9,846 cu. in. of spaceto holda wide vadety tools, parts and supplies. of
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36
WOOD magazine
October 2000
Scrollsaw patterns from the office supply store

For makingyour own self-adhesive patterns, pressure scrollsaw buy sensitive label sheets the office supply at store.They comein sizesfrom small mailing-labels to &Vzxll" solid up sheets. Simply transferyour patternto the label sheet(by hand,photocopier, or printer),cut it out, and affix it computer to your workpiece. And, if you havea computer, make sureyou take a look throughthe officesupplystore'sbargainbin while you're therepicking up the labels.You're boundto find dozens clip-art CDof ROMs chock-fullof scrollsaw-ready drawingsfor next to nothing. -Ron Seto, theWOOD from OwLTNE@ group TopShop discussion Tip
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WOOD magazine
October 2000
Smooth sinking in close quarters

you Sometimes needto countersink a hole drilled into an areawherea countersinkwon't fit (in the bottomof a for But usinga steelchannel, example). big twist-drill bit for a countersink rarelygivesyou a smoothroundcountersink.Instead, often leavesa ragged, it five-sided sink.Here'show to get a cleancountersink a closequarters in everytime.
Smallpieceof
Holeto countersink
')t
Placea small scrapof cottonclothno more than an inch or two squareover the hole you want to countersink. Now useyour oversize drill bit as if you're trying to drill throughthe cloth. The cloth cushions cuttingedgesso the they both makecontactwith the metal at the sametime, leavingyou with a clean,roundcountersink. careful: Be The cloth will twist with the bit, so don't try to hold onto it. -Klass Oterdoom, Bentveld, Netherlands The
WOOD magazine
October 2000
39
Continnedfrompage 39
Doubled cord is half the trouble

When storinga long extension cord, I like to doublethe cord first, then startit on the reel from the middle.This keeps both endsof the cord free so I can usea long cord for short distances withoutunspooling whole thing.One word of the cautionthough:unwrapthe cord completelybeforeusing with high-power tools.Pullinglots of currentthougha coiled cord can quickly causeit to overheat.
A. YoungBrown,Jr. (from the WOOD ONLINEa group) Top ShopTip discussion
Gleat-GUt idea for picking grain

When I find an intarsiapatternI like, I first cut all of the partsfrom a pieceof Vs"clear acrylic. (I usemy scrollsawon its lowestspeedto keepthe acrylic on both sidesof the kerf from fusing back together.) Besidesgiving me a perfectpattern for tracingout multiple projects,the clear piecesalso allow me to choosethe bestgrain orientationfor eachpart. -Dave Beaune theWOOD (from group) ONLINE Shop discussion Top Tip
Start here at center of extension cord.
Wrap male and female end of cord simultaneously.
t/e" acrylic pattern
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PVC gives TLC to turned bowls

Here'san ideathat will makea lot of (andtheir spouses) woodturners happy. To part a turnedbowl from my lathe's faceplate by myself,I usea 12" all lengthof PVC pipe with a rubbercap slipped overoneend.I put the otherend of the pipe over the tailstock,and move the tailstockin until the rubberpresses on the bottomof the bowl. Then,I part the bowl from the faceplate. I've never lost a bowl usingthis device. -NorbertHeckler, Meyers, Fort Fla.
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Afew more from tips our pros woodworking

.Matching wood grain is half the battle when making beautiful panels. Learn the tricks on page 44. .On page 52, woodturner Galen Carpenter offers some tips for gluing and reinforcing segmented- or stack-laminated bowls. .Looking for an easy way to drill angled holes? Simply saw a jig that holds your workpiece at the prescribed angle, as we did on the Toy Float Plane onpage S2.Q
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WOOD magazine October 2000
\i\it'i'Aiiriurirrn", ' / r,
41
(U.K.) 14 United Kingdom: Arrow Faslener Ltd., Barclay Road, Croydon, Suney 1JN CRO www.arrowfastener.com @ 1999 ArrowFastener Inc. Company,
ffi i*'",'n lffi *t;:': Fffi; ffd* il#ift **ffi
ffiffiffiffiffi
Mffiffi ffiffiffi ffi

lf yo u're a begin nin g woodworkeromaster this basic technique before you move on to the fancy stuff. You'll start with a few boards,and end up with a panelworthy of a tabletop.
ll boards are not created equal. Some boards follow the rules and stay straightand flat. Others rebel. If you take time to find the cooperative oneswhen you set out to make a panel, the task will be much easier. Here's what you need to consider when you visit the lumber rack at the home center or wood supplier: straightness, color, and grain figure. Sight down the edge of a board and you'll quickly spot any bowing. Look down the face to checkfor twist. Onceyou've found someboardsthat you might like to take home, stand them up sideby sideto make surethey get along with eachother visually. We usedred oak for this project,and found significant color variations. Some boards showed a pink tinge, others looked brown, and a couple were almost white. Stick with boardsof the samecolor. Grain matching isn't as straightforward as color matching, but think on ahead.Can you seesimilar patterns If all the boards? so, you'll have an easy time making joints that seem to insteadof standingout. disappear
Cut them down to size

If you buy lumber that hasbeenstored inside a store,you can start to work it as soon as you get it into your shop. Lumber that's been storedoutdoorsor in an unheated,uncooled warehouse
Continued
43
perfect
will need a few days to adjustto your shop's humidity. Beforemakingany cuts,double-check your tablesaw and jointer to make sure they're set at exactly 90". You might havebeentold that a slightlyrough surface slues better.Not so. Smootheris better. Still, if you use a high-quality rippingbladeon your saw,you canproduce edgessuitablefor gluing without evengoingto thejointer. You'll probably buy stockthat'ssurfaced on both sides and one or both If edges. it hasone rough edge,rip that away on the tablesaw. Then crosscut the boardsto lengthplus a few extrainches. That allows for planer snipe and also comesin handy when you're searching for the bestgrainmatch. Now take thosewide boardsand rip them into piecesno wider than 4". It like a shame, doing this virtuseems but ally eliminatesa wider board's natural tendency cup.Even if you rip a board to in half and wind up gluing those two halves right back together again, you have relievedtensionwithin the stock. That will helpkeepyour panelflat.
reading the grain

It's not a jigsaw puzzle, it's a lumber puzzle. Here's an example of nice matching grain and an example of a match that would annoy you for years to come.
Get ready to glue

Now comes your chance to imitate nature. Lay the boards on your workbench, as you see in the photo at left. Look for an arrangement which the in grain on eachpieceseems flow visuto ally into the adjacent piece. (See grain lines of similar These boards feature Differentgrain directionsand shapes doom "Readingthe Grain" at left.) directionand width, so they blendwell. these boardsto a janing visual effect. Again, considercolor. For example, you'll get a better-looking resultby placing a coupleof light boardsat the sides of the panel,ratherthan alternating them with darkerpieces. Somewoodworkers swearby flipping every otherboardto alternate growth the rings that you see on the end grain. However, you can ignore that factor onceyou've rippedthe boards 4". to After you've decided how the boards will go together, mark them in alphabetical order with chalk, as in the photo at page.The chalk the top of the opposite rubsoff easilyafterglue-up. Checkthe fit one lasttime. If any gaps show,go back to the tablesaw to the or jointer, or get out a long, sharpjointer plane.Make the edges straight you as as can along the length of the board and keep them squarewith the face,too. When the boardsfit tight, placewaxed paper on your workbenchto catch any stray glue drips. Set bar clampsor pipe clampson the paper,spaced about 12" apafi. It wouldn't hurt to put waxed paper directly on the clamps,too. The waxedpaperwill keepthe clampsclean and won't stickto your glued-up boards. We used four BesseyK Body bar clamps from the American Clamping Corp. (800/828-1004)underneathour 36x24" assembly. jaws stayparallel The to the workpiece and keep the boards After cutting your stock to size, lay the boards on your workbench and begin looking for flat. Other kinds of clampsmight need the perfect match, as WOOhmagazine's contributing craftsman Jim Heavey does here.
44
WOOD magazine
October 2000
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H e r e ' sa n o t h e r m a r k i n g m e t h o d :J i m p e n c i l s i n X ' s and O's "because I love my work." Write them on masking tape and you won't have to sand them off. mark the boards with chalk. When you've figured out the best arrangement, arrang
a l i g n n r e n th e l p h ' o n r t w ' o n r o l c c l a m p s p l a c c c o n t h e t o 1 's i c l e f ' t h c a s s c r n b l y . l r o O L r r f i n i s h e c lp a n e l e n c l e c L r p : i r l up boarclsr,,icle. But u,'eglLrecl .iust half of the panel-three boarcls-at a tirne. O t l i e m ' i s e .t t t a k e ss o m e s c r a r n b l i n g t o keep all of the .joints in pert'ectali-qnn r e n t . T h i s n r e t h o c a l s o a l l o r v s v o L rt o l nrn each thlee-boarcl asscrrtbly thnrugh a l 2 ' p l a n e ra f i e r t h e g l u e d r i e s . L a y t h e t h r e e s e c l r - r e n t i a lm a l k e d lv b o a r c l s n t h e c l a m p s b e t w e e nt h e . i a w s o bottle. We recornand reach fur the glLre n r e n c l y e l l o w w i l o c l w o r k e r ' ' s- s l u c . I t so cloesset LrpclLrickll''. thoLrgh. be prep i r l ' c ttl 0 r r o t ' k l ' l r : 1 . Y o u c l o n ' tn e e c s p e c i a l o o l s t o s p r e a c l l t the glLre.Silnpll, la1'dowtt a beaclfl'ottl 1,our-uluebottle. then spread it into an even coirt with a fin-ucr.as sltowr.t the in plroto ttt ri.qltt the ri_cht amolurt. Ancl 1,1-111 neeclto onlv a p p l y _ c l L rte o n e o l ' t w o n r a t i n ge c l g e s . o If you pr,rtglue on both boarcls.voll rc certain to overcloit. Rub the glLre.joints together and linc Lrpr firr the boarcls the grain effcct vou plunnecl. Don't won'y abor.rt gettingthc enrl: cractlv e v e n :t h i t t ' s o n e r e a s o n\ ' o u eL r tt h c n r a l i t t l e l o n - c .S n L r g p a l l o t ' r o u r c l u n r l . r s . u b L r t l o n ' ta p p l , vr n u c hl ) r e s s L uve t . c 'e S t a r t a t o n e e n c l .n r a k e s L r r c h e . j o i n t s t are flat on top. ancl ti-uhtcnthat clanrp. O v e r t i g h t e n i n gw i l l . i u s t l i r r c e g l u e o u t
('rttttittttctl
er.w@
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A p p l y a b e a do f y e l l o wg l u e o n j u s t o n e board per joint, and spread it evenlywith your f i n g e r .A l l i t t a k e s i s e n o u g ht o c o a t t h e surface.Anything more gets squeezedout.
www.woodmagazine,com
4C
perfect
of thejoint, so take it easy.You'remaking a panel, arm-wrestlin,e. not Work toward the other end of the assembly, checking joints andtightthe eningtheclamps you go, as shownin as the photo at right. If you applied the perfectamountof glue.it will showup joint. as tiny beads alongeach
Clean up, repeat, trim

Let the glue set up until it's rubbery. Then skim it off the wood with a putty knife or a scraper, as shown in the inset photo. Leave the clamps in place for an hour or so. For a panel 24" wide, we glued up another three-board piece. then ran both pieces through our 12" planer to take down any high spots.Then we joined the two halves with the same gluing and clamping proceduresas above. The final panel won't fit through the planer,but that's not a problem. You can easily clean up that single, middle joint with a scraper or a random-orbit sander. Trim the ends square on the tablesaw, if your panel isn't too wide for comfort. A crosscutsled makesthatjob easierand safer. Otherwise, clamp a straightedge acrossthe panel and use it as a guide for your circular saw or router.i
Written by Jim Pollock Photographs: Baldwin Photography lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
Ratherthan make a mess trying to wipe up wet glue, let it set up for a while, then scrape it off.
Working quickly,jockey the boards up and down as necessaryto get them flat all along each joint. You can clamp a troublesome joint to the bar clamp sitting underneath.
All you need is glue to make super-strongedge joints. However,long stock ways other to align edges can be tricky to keep lined up while clamping.You can reduce your stress level with one of these methods.
S
t-"".;::,
-\=.-
biscuit A platejoiner,or biscuitjoiner,ratesas the easiestand quickest way to line up matingpieces. spline Equipyour routerwith a slot cutterto makeshort groovesalongboth matingedges,then use your tablesaw rip wood splinesto fit.That'seasierthan dealingwith one long slot. to dowel Oh-so-convenient biscuits pushingdowelsout of the picture. you still preferdowels, are lf make sure they'restraightand fit the holesperfectly. routed profile Youcan rout a tongueon one pieceand a matching grooveon its mate.Two drawbacks: the cost of a specialbit and the challenge keepinglong stockperfectly as you run of flat it acrossyour routertable.
46
s.:,
#t#
J ':';ri
Wsid6''sdqh#
Galen's turnings of exotic wood'itiid unconventional materials. The one at top center, for example, is black palm with antler rim. A tall vessel of oriented strand board (OSB) stands at bottom center.
Obivicgiw11g.ot"*otopruff :
n his Sedona, Arizona, workshop, Galen Carpenter attempts to explainthe consumer appealof his segmented, turnedbowls:"I baseall my work on the theory that I would rather give somebody really goodtasteof the a wood instead a little pieceof it." And of for that taste of wood, people pay upward of $500 for one of Galen's bowls,usuallymadefrom colorful exotic wood, highly figured stock,or quite unusual materials.
"You just can't get the colors out of domestic wood that you can out of e x o t i cs," he expl ai ns." A nd they' re intriguing because they're new to people. I don't use Americanblack walnut, for instance,becauseeveryonein the world can seewalnut in a furniture store. Most peoplebuy the work because they like the color. They're drawn to them." With that theoryin mind, a walk through Galen'sshopbecomes journeythrough a the world of wood.and much more.
Gome into the wood candy store

"Thereare a lot of woodsI don't useout of respect for their endangeredstatus, such Brazilianrosewood,"notesGalen. "Why use it when thereare other woods that will work just as well?" Thenthe woodturner beginsto recitethe namesof his favorite materials."Royal palm. That comesfrom Florida. There's from blackpalm,ramon,and bulletwood Behze." Galen pauses,then continues.
Continued
WOODmagazine October 2000
49
mented' ses from sedona
Madrone burl, mooseand elk antler,and exotic wood species from around the world make up the raw materials for Galen's turnings.
Can you guess what this bowl's made of? Pine cones joined with epory! Galen uses a sanding disc fastened to a metal plate to perfectly flatten its bottom.
"Rhodesianteak. Indian and Belize rosewood. Australian myrtle and tabari. African oil palm. Alexander palm. Corkscrew palm. Tulipwood and pernambucoout of Brazil. From Mexico, I get chocte and cocobolo. "About the only native American woods I turn are bird's-eye maple and madrone," he adds. "In all, I use maybe 175 species. Then I've employed oriented strand board [OSB], plus corn and other oddities epoxied together. Of course,there are people who have a sentimental tie to a wood species,so they'll commissionme to make a bowl from it." Looking aroundGalen's large materialstorage area, you'll spot other things seemingly foreign to a woodworker's shop.There are chunks of semi-precious stones,suchas turquoiseand lapis lazuli. "Whon a bowl calls for it, I'11use it, but not to get the Southwest look," he says. A few moose antlers lay about. "They come from friends in Alaska. I can only usethe outsidelayer because insideis the porous.I cut out a thick piece for a bowl rim, then resaw it into two thin rims. I don't put it on everything," Galen notes.
The long trail to success

Confident in his designsenseand choice of materials, and skilled as a turner, Galen has developeda following of collectors everywhere hp sells. He's also won numerousart-fair awards and bestof-show titles across the counffy. This national reputation, however, has been nearly 30 yearsin the making. In 1974, Galen and his wife, Ann, ran a furniture repair and stripping business in Florence, Kansas.Galen taught himself woodturning because had to turn he rungs for broken chairs."I would go into the shop at 5 a.m. and turn until 8 a.m., then get on with the other work," he recalls."I've alwaysworked long hours becauseI enjoy what I'm doing-or I don't do it. Back then, I'd never seen anyone'swoodturningsto comparemine to, but we had. a little showroom, and every once in awhile I'd turn a jewelry box or a bowl and put it out marked at $30. When people came to pick up their furniture, they would sometimesbuy." Galen was enjoying his work and his turnings. Then a different opportunity knocked. "One day a customercame in
accompaniedby a woman who was the curator of the Wichita Art Museum," he remembers."She was interestedin my bowls for an upcoming exhibition. So I made about 15 of them for the show." That experiencegot Galen off and running. He began taking his woodturning more seriously,and startedaccentingthe native woods of his bowls with horn and "Very Southwestern," other adornments. he says. Yet, his turnings were getting better and better. At the time, though, Kansas was in an economic downfurn. No one wanted to pay what he thought his work was worth. Following a winter vacation to Sedona in 1983, Galen and Ann decided on a move. "Oil, agriculture, and aircraft made up the economy in Kansas back then, and none of them were doing well," he remembers."People at home weren't happy. But they were in Sedona, so we sold everything and moved here." Galen was hired by a Sedonabuilding contractor, but continued turning nights and weekends"I was making bowls on a Craftsman lathe. I had a Craftsman tablesaw, jointer, and sander+nough
50
WOOD magazine
October 2000
tools to make a living with if I had to," he recalls. "EventuallyI met a local woodworker who used exotic woods exclusivelyfor his intricatelyinlaid boxes,"saysGalen. "He gave me a bunch of scraps. was It great.I'd neverin all my life seensuch beautifulwood!" Over time, the woodworkeralso told Galen the ropes of selling at art fairs, a marketfor his work that he was unfamiliar with. Beforelong,Galengot accepted at his first one.He andAnn had to travel to Californiain a rentedstationwagon. but he surprisingly sold most of the bowls he broughtat from $250 to $300 apiece.Encouraged, Galen exhibitedat anotherfair in Florida, and did well. "Ann and I were so excited that we decidedthat full-time woodturning was the directionI shouldtake,"saysGalen.
Continued
Proportioninga bowl with the golden mean

Bowl blank
1
4',
./''a
4 " b l a n k h i c k n e sx 1 . 6 1 8 t s = 61/2" bowl rim diameter
+ 4" blankthickness 1.618
Bowls by the golden mean

"When bowlsitson a mantle, can'ttellitswall you a thickness how heavyit is. lt shouldsimplybe or pleasing," "And aesthetically saysthe woodturner, that'sa combination the material ihe shape." of and To get an eye-appealing bowl shape requires a sense of proportion. An ancient Greek formula guidesGalen. calledthe GoldenMean frequently "lt'sreally aboutusingthe ratio1:1.618 findthe to length the longsidein relation the shortsideof of to "But in bowl turning,it's a rectangle," explains. he usedto calculate diameter the rim in relation the of to the height the bowl,or of the basediameter of to (Seethe drawing the height." above.) Galen,though, sometimes turns to a design method somewhatless sophisticated than that of the Greeks. Snatching usedautofan beltfromthe a shopwall,the lankyturnerstrides intothe outside, sunlight. Holding the belt in the air,he twists and turnsit. Looking down at the belt'sshadowon the he driveway, says,"Thatshapewould makea nice bowl."Then,whileholding twistedbelt in conthe figuration with one hand, he traces the shadow with chalk. onto the cement
WoodturnerGalen Carpenterleans against a deck railing that he crafted of localjuniper branches and western red cedar.
51
He works segments two by two

"I don't know that I've ever turned a bowl that wasn'tmultipiece. Evenin the beginning,I'd drill holes in the bowl blank to insert contrasting dowels aroundthe shape. Looking back,I guess they were real crafty," Galen says with much amusement. Now, all of Galen'swork is segmented. His bowlshaveeither8, 10, 12, 16,20, in or 24 segments what he calls their "feature" ring. "How many segments they have dependson the size of the stock that I'm cutting them from," he says,"but I like bestto work with a 12to 16-piece bowl." Galenmarksand numbers segments the directlyon the boardfrom which they'll be sawn, as shown in the photo left. "Then, I cut them on the mitersaw, keeping them numbered for use in (For how to calculate sequence. angles, refer to "What's the angle?"below left.) I alwayswork with pairedsegments," he notes."Like numbersI and 2.3 and 4, and so on. I sand them at the belt sanderwith 60-grit in pairs, too. I use the coarsepaperbecause glue grips the wood better."
The segments of a turning begin as triangular markings across the face of a board. Galen numbers them in order down the board for bookmatching.
What's anglen the anyway?

A full circlecontains 360".So to make a glued-upblank of segmentsfor pieces, corturning of straight the out ner anglesmust add up to 360". For example,in a simpleblank with six equal-length sides,the six 60o corners add up to 360'. But 60' is not the angleyou needto cut on the ends of each segment.Becausetwo segmentsjoin to make the angle,each segmentmust be miter-cut exactly to halfthe totalcornerangle,or 30".
When he has sanded the pairedsegall ments,the woodturnergluesup the ring with yellow glue.But he defiestradition by not clamping."That freaks people out," he says. " B ut I do n't clam p because clamp alwaysputs the wood a in stress. You see, woodalwayswantsto go back to the way it was. When you add stresswith a clamp, the wood's eventually going to go somewhere. There'sno stress my bowls." in On gluing, Galen offers some advice: "You never want to glue up the segmentsright aftersanding. The wood gets hot from it and sucksup the glue.Then, joint that will what you get is a starved eventually separate. "Remember,too, that if you want to insert veneer accentsbetweeneach of he the segments," adds, "run the grain perpendicular that of the segments. to just like crossThat way, the veneer acts bandingin plywood and givesthe bowl lots more strength." Galen'sbowls alsogrow stronger with additions."The rim, of antler or solid wood, helps strengthenthe segments below it just as the solid wood base holdsthe segments aboveit in place,"he pointsout.
Here's rule: the Todetermine corner the angle for

a f igur e wit h a n y n u mb e r o f equal-lengthsides, divide 360" by the number of sides. To find the miter angle,dividethe corner angle by two.
T. '$
f!;'
No. of sides 6 8 10 12 16
corner 600 25" 360 30" 22Y2'
miter 30' 221/2" 1go 15' 1114"
{,:'.
,.:a--
The segments, cut to the correct angle at the mitersaw, are glued up to form rings. Veneer accents between the rings act as crossbanding to strengthen the bowl.
52
WOOD magazine
October 2000
Chucked onto his S-speed Woodfast lathe, the segmented ring presents solid end grain to Galen's turning tool.
Tools to shed end grain

Because the way Galen lays out and of cuts the segments, ends up turning he end grain for the bowl body. "Most woodturners that's harderto do, but say if you're turning a solid-piece bowl, every 180degrees rotationyou're hitof "But ting hard end grain," he comments. if you begin with a blank that's entirely end grain,it's harderall the way though and thus more predictable." As unconventionalas Galen's endgrain turning are the tools he employs to do it. Ratherthan a traditional gouge,he prefershollow-handle turning tools with replaceable high-speed steelcutting tips in straightand bent versions."They were designed by noted woodturner David Ellsworth," he notes."The tips are held on with cyanoacrylate glue. Want to changea dull tip? Just heat it up with a propanetorch, then tap it against something solid, and it pops out. But I do use a Sorby parting tool, too. And for hollowing, I go to a Thompsontool. With thosefour, I can make about anything." Galen sffives to turn all his bowls with %"-thick walls, but some of his chosen materials won't allow it. "Like black palm, for instance. I turn that very thin, If it becomes a border-line explosion because fibrous. I can break out a big it's hole with my turning tool for no apparent reason," he says. "I can stabilize the materialwith cyanoacrylate, if I hapbut pen to cut myself out of the area where the cyanoacrylate penetrated, might has I blow out a big hole. So the material can limit what I'm able to do with it."i
Written by Peter J. Stephano Photographs:Tom Brcwnold
"The high-speed steel cutting tip actually shears the end grain, although it looks as if I'm scraping because there are no long curls," says Galen.
With the outside of the bowlturned to shape, Galen turns his attention to the inside with a Thompson hollowing tool. After the bowl has been finely sanded, he'll finish it with three or four coats of Waterlox, a tung-oil based clear finish.
53
SI
flr
high-Gd
t0 IA,l
=ffi
e
\i
r1\
make your tablesaw a

\r \
,,i,
You can buy a multitudeof accessories for making crosscutson from tablesaws.Everything souped-upmitergaugesto platBut forms that sit atop the tablesaw.
none of these gadgetstops a sliding control, and table for convenience, capacity.Here'sone you can build in your own shop. By the mumb*rs: Ffisw m this slider pr*w$des big assist in the shCIp
t t l V o t e : T l t i . s . s l i t l i t t g u t ' t ' c . s . s r t r y , l io.ts Iu It I e.u tr.sw i rh I eI'r .sd e.sttrtrt It.\t t'rr('| ( (| I).\' t i cruttk.sor tiltittg tnoIot'.\,.sttcltrt.snttt.sl Cruji.sttrtuttutd Ridgitl rnotlel.s.lrt tlti.s lo urticle we ntounled tlte ullttclttttettl u Ritlgitl trtrxlel T52124. You ttrut ncetl to to rrruke rtrorli.t'icution.\ tlrc tle.sigrtpreort .sertted ltere deputdirt,g, llte cort.slntt'I iort o.f' r tultle.sttw. rott It' t'otrt'.rrttl i.t not u t'tutditkftc.l'or tlti.t utltl-ott. \'ott ntu\' \'(ttt lo lturcltuse u .slitlirtgtuble. Deltu .sell.s rttttrttt.fLtctrtred o r r e . l r tu r t t l e rS J 5 ( ,()8 0 0 / 1 3 8 - 2 4 8 6 . i r r r Cttrturlu 5I9/8-16-2810); Luguttu pricetl ut $795 Tools t'unie.s two rnodel.s u r t t l $ 9 4 5 ( 8 0 0 / 2 3 1 - l t ) 7 6 ) : u r t t lt o u t ' u r r pricetl E.rt'ulibur .slitlirtgtuble.s ltttrcltu.se . f i v n r 5 5 8 0r o $ 8 0 0 ( 8 0 0 / - 1 5 7 - 1 1 1 8 ) . pLrlled completely With this attachnient fbrward. you can place workpiecesup to 28" wide between a tablesaw's fully raised blade and the slidin-etable's fence set for a 90o cut. The sliding-table surface extends 22" to the lett of the blade. and its f'enceis 3 8 " l o n g . s o t r i m m i n , et h e e n d o f a 4'-long piece should be rnanageable without the help of an assistantor other support.
54
Flrst* lst's build the aceessCIry table

Cut the table upright (A), table supI ports (B). and table panels(C) from birch plywood accordingto the dimensionsin the Bill of Materialson page 57. sAz" f) Mark. drill. andcountersinkthe Z hobs in A, where shown in the TableUpright PartsView drawing.Mark and pre-drill the Vq"and%e" hole locations with a t3/6+" in a drill press. bit (You'll drill these holesto full sizelater.) part viseand Q Secure A in your bench \,/ clamp the aluminum guide blocks and guide rail to A, as shown in the Marking the TappedHoles in the Guide Blocks drawing. Use a hand drill and t3/oq" to mark the locationsof the Vq" brt andsAs" holesonto the guideblocks. Mark the locationandorientation of A T the guide blocks on part A, and unclamp them. Also mark the guide blocks and the plastic UHMW wear blocks within them that's closestto A. Your marks will enableyou to remove andreplace UHMW wearblock in its the samelocationlater. t/+"andsAo" holesin part A, f, Drill the t../ whereshownat right. ft Remove the marked UHMW wear L,/ blocks.On your drill press, borethe 1%+" holes,wheremarkedon the guide blocks.Tap these holeswith a V+-20 tap. Use threading lubricantfor bestresults. Remove any burrs with a file, and replace UHMW wearblocks. the Luy out and cut the table supports 7 t (B) usingthe PartsView drawingas a guide.Cut the holeswith a circle cutter, or mark them with a compassand cut with a jigsaw. to Q Align and clamp the supports A. pllot holes into the sup\J Drill 7/o+" portsusingthesAz" holesin A asguides. Unclamp the supports,and attachthem with glue and screws. (-) Cut two piecesof l3Vzx27t/2" plasY tic laminate the tablepanefs for fCl. (The27V2" dimension will vary for saws with topsthat aren't27" deep. Make this dimension V2" larger than the table depth.)Adhereone pieceto eachsideof the table panels(C) with contactadhesive,and trim flush with a router. Drill andcountersink holesin the 1n | \./ bottomtablepanel,whereshown on the TableExplodedView. I I Attach the bottom table panel to (B) I I the uprights with screws driven into pilotedholes. I
.Determined bv location e. of
3/4','
3/q t l
T-W
t--23/4n--4 @
T A B L EU P R I G H T
%"{hick
U H M W- '
Tsz" holes, countersunk
5/e"
UHMWWEARBLOCK
(2 needed) /e" round-over on frontand back
TABLE SUPPORT
(2 needed)
PARTS VIEW
5/r hole. o" countersunk
1O With a dado set,cut the grooves 11 to, the mini channel in the remaining tablepanelwhereshown. -1 Glue and clamp the two table Q | \,1 panelstogether, being carefulto keepthe edgesflush. Sanda /+" radius on the four corners. Fill the edge voids with automotive body filler, and sand smooth.
Add the haavy hardurare find fence

Cut two piecesof mini channelto | 2 7 " l ong. A l i gn your dri l l -press fenceto keep its 3Ae" centered the bit on channel.Drill holes into the channel spacedIVz" ftom both ends and4" apafi from eachother.Countersink holes, the andremoveany burrswith a file. Secure the mini channel with screws. I
Continued
55
table add-on sliding

Note: Seepage39 for a ntfty tip on how to use large nvist drill bits for countersinkingsmall holes. /-) Loosely attach the guide blocks to L n. SHpthe aluminumguide bar into the guide blocks,and tightenthe screws, as shown in the Aligning and Attaching the Guide Blocks drawing. Q Using the Fence Exploded View \,1 drawingasa guide,cut two piecesof z/+"-thickmaple for the fence halves (D) to Vs" wider than the size shown in the Bill of Materials. Lay out and cut the dadoesthat form the slots in D. A Glue and clamp together the two -t halves that form the fence, being careful to keep the edges aligned flush. After the glue dries,joint both edgesto finishedwidth. fi Grind the heads of two carriage t ,/ bolts. as described in the Fence Exploded View at right. Add the long knobs, washers, and gaskets. up the thickness.Be sure to joint the lower rail (F) straightfor the sliding table to work properly. /J Drill and countersinkthe3/a" holesin 1n and F. where shown on the ExplodedView and SideView drawings. Q Placea pieceof maskingtapeon the \,1 tablesaw's rip-fence rail(s) where they meet the left edge of the tablesaw's main table.On the tapemakea mark that's flush with the edgeof the main table. A To makethe lock block (G), glue up -land cut a block of maple TVzxlVzx23/c" size. Using the Front in View of the Table Lock Block drawings as a reference,measureup 2Vz" and ovet hole. to the left s/a". and drill a r1/a+" Crosscutthe block to 2Vz"long to make notch. a radiused
Continued
Use a framing square held tight against the table edge, along with a rule, to determine the width of the rails (E, F).
3%"-longknob s/a"llal washer z/gz"-deep dado cut before assembly to form z/re" slots z/sz"-deag dadoes cut before slots assemblyto form z/ro"
All on board as we make the rails

{ Make the upper rail (E) and lower rail | (F) accordingto the Bill of Materials. The width of the rails (E, F) will vary from saw to saw. To determinethe width of these pieces, remove the extension wing on the left side of the tablesaw's main table, and take a measurementas shown in the photo above right. The length of E should match the depth of your tablesawcabinet. We used8/4 maple to make theseparts, but vou could laminate3/q"stockto make
35/ra"
FENCE EXPLODED VIEW
E
*Depthof tablesawcabinet
guidebar Aluminum
L
1Y2'
f
lowerrailon side Center of tablesaw cabinet.
vlEw stDE
56
s/0"shank hole,countersunk #6 x t/2"F.H. wood screws--\
\
3 / s ' t 3 / 1 6m i n i c h a n n e l v " -
Plastic laminate
R=1/q"
Y
13lro" grooves z/ro"deep, cut after applying plastic
laminate too to
#8x11/z'F.H. wood screws
TABLE EXPLODED VIEW
s/sz" hole, countersun k Vqx 1t/q" R.H.machine screws and flat washersfor top 1/q 1" R.H.machine x screwsand flat washersfor bottom 7/ac" pilol hole 7+"deep Tap holesin guidebearingto fit 1/+' F.H.machine screws,
Plastic laminate
.\ \ \
pilothole 7oq" s/+"deep

7ee"holes, countersunk #8x11/z'F.H. wood screw
23/4"-long aluminum guideblocks
lzx1VqxZs/q")ong UHMW wear blocks
( [J--\ l+" lable Pin lock
A table upright 3/qu 11' 17' BP B table supports Vt' 9' 9u BP panels a/tu 13" 27'@ BP C table
D# fencehalves
-{
1 2
2 2 Plastic laminate, Supplies: #6xr/2" wood F.H. screws, #8x1t/2" wood F.H. #8x%" F.H. screws, wood screws, 1/ix11/c" machine #8x2" F.H. wood screws, R.H. screws, s/ax13/q" machine %x1"R.H, machine screws, F.H. 3/ax31/2" machine t/" screws, F.H. screws, flatwashers, %"flatwashers, lockwashers, nuts, 14mm %" two % oil pluggaskets, steelrcd31/z" two%x3"cardrain %" long, t/*1t/2" riage F.H. bolts, %0x1" machine screws, sleelbar stock long, 1' contact adhesive, threading lubricant, oil paint. finish, Buying Guide guide 54"long, guide Aluminum bar two blocks, two pieces lzx1l/qx23/q" pieces of UHMW, 27"-long two of m i n ic h a n n e a,n dt w o l o n gk n o b s$ 7 5p p d .f r o m l , K r e g o o C o . , 0 1C a m p uD r i v eH u x l e y A 5 0 1 2 4 . T l 2 s , l, Call800/447-8638.
E upper rail F lower rail G#lock block H stops
3/qu21/c" 301/q' M **M 1Yz'

11/2"
# 8 x s h "F . H . wood screws
\\ \, \
#8x2" F.H.woodscrews
54"
2t/t" dia,
M
M
11/2" 11/2', 21/z'
Vt'
@This dimension match depth your should the of tablesaw Some top. tables not27" are deep. -Width varies. instructions. See '.Length varies. instructions. See #lnitially part cut oversized trim finished and to size according to instructions. plywood, Materials BP-birch Key: M-maple www.woodmagazine.com
57
table add-on sliding

fi Cut the lxl" notch with your band\,1 saw. (For safety's sake, don't use your tablesaw make this cut.) to Drill the t1/o+" hole for the lock pin A \,1 and sAz"holes that are countersunk, as shownin the Top and Side Views of the Table Lock Block drawings. J Sand a %" radius,where shown on I the Front View. Q Cut a V4" steel rod 3V2" long. L/ Chamferits endswith a file or sandpaper,then bend it at 90o, as shown in the Table Lock Pin drawing. We used a vise. steel-jawed A Make two round discs to serve as V ,rop, (H) accordingto the Bill of Materialsand the PartsView drawing. Sand all wood parts smooth, ln l\,/ mask the laminatewhereit meets wood, and apply two coatsof an oil finish to all wood surfaces. Paint the table (We chosea graypaint similar in edges. color to the table.)
Positionthe rails with spacers,clamp the rails to the table,and transferthe 7a"holelocations usinga centerpunch. blocks under the table edge,and clamp the upper rail (E) directly below the blocks. Place the long spacerbetween the upper and lower rails (E, F) and clamp the lower rail to the saw. Placea centerpunchinto one of the 3/s" holesin eitherrail. Wrap tapearoundthe punch if it fits loosely in the hole-this will ensure a centeredmark. Tap the punch with a hammer to mark the tablesaw cabinet. Repeat for the other 3/s" holesin both rails. A Removethe clamps,rails, and spacT ers. Drill %" holes at the marks made for the lower rail. Punch marks 3Ae"directly above and below the marks you made for the upper rail. Drill %" holes at the new marks. Make slots by filing between two holesas shownin the the photo aboveright. fi From VcxIV2"stqel bar stock, cut r./ four pieces 2" long. Using the ExplodedView drawingshownopposite as a reference,position these backing plates inside the saw cabinet and mark the hole location with a pencil through the drilled holes. Clamp each plate to your drill-presstable and drill a 31" hole where marked.
Use a rat-tailfile to turn the 7s" holes into a slot for the upper rail.
Attach the assembly to your saw

J Before you put things together,you I need to take a few things apart for working ease. First, detachthe saw's rip fenceand rails. If you have a saw with a motor that hangs out the back, unplug the machine and remove the motor assembly and belt. f) Measurethe thicknessof your saw .t C- top and subtract that from 4Vt". From scrapcut two spacerblocks to that length.Now, cut a spacer 5V+"wide and 18" long. Using the photo above left as a reference, place the small spacer
TABLELOCK BLOCK
tZ" steel rod 3tl2"long --l 1" -- ,/
,l]W.-
ft Using the Side View, SectionView \,/ detail,andExplodedView drawings as reference,clamp the 54" aluminum guidebar (seeBuying Guide for source) to the upper rail (E). Make sure the guide bar is oriented,as shown in the SectionView detail. Mark the position of the vertical t/s" holesin the rail onto the guidebar using a centerpunch, described as before.With your drill press,bore t3/oq" holes at the punchmarks.Tap as described Step6 rn of the sectionon building the table. the / Reclamp upperrail into position f using the small spacersas before. Attach the upper and lower rails using machine screws, backing plates, lock washers, and nuts. Use a stubby screwdriverto attach Q \J the aluminumguidebar to the upper rail with machinescrews. (^) Slide the sliding table over the aluY minum euidebar.Alien the surfaces of the tables-aw and the silOingtable, as shown in the photo below left. Use clamps and two sturdy straightedges to hold the table surfaces in alignment. (We used the saw's rip fence and the slidingtable'sfence.)
11/2'
!tr\
3 F \
Bl ono Unamler
fl Wz EI lUl.
TOPVIEW
TABLE LOCK PIN
Clamp the sliding table flush with the saw top, and measure for the thickness of the wear blocks and their spacers.
58
WOOD magazine
October 2000
guidebar, Aluminum 54" long
Holetappedlor s/a-18threads
Tablesaw with extension removed Cut off fence rails. Drilland tap two holesin bottom to fit 7a"machinescrews. on /a"hole.countersunk bottomside 7a"hole.countersunk
1/qx11/2x2" steel backing plates
EXPLODED VIEW
3/a 13/q" x F.H.
machinescrew
t
s/re" hole, countersunk on backside 'sAa x 1"F.H. machinescrew
t.
|
Aluminum guide block 7a"hole.countersunk 3/ax31/2" machine F.H. screws s/ro" holefor lock pin t/a"lock pin 7s"holethroughside of cabinetand backingplate UHMWwear block Scrapwood spacer
Measure the distance between the lower rail and the table upright. From this distance subtract thickness the the of UHMW wear block (V2").Makescrapwood spacersthat thick and the same width and length of the wear blocks. (We used our bandsawbecauseof the tablesaw's dismantled state.) Positionthe lock block /s" above 1n l\,/ the rail, and secure in placewith it screws.Removethe table, and attachthe wear blocks and spacers, shown in the as Section View detail and Table Upright PartsView drawings.
A few final toucheso and you're done

1 If the tabledoesnot slideeasily,you I may have to shim it. Before doing this, double-check the table surfaces that still are aligned.Fine-tune alignment the by addingshims (slicesof wood, paper, or metal) betweenthe guide blocks and table upright (A) where necessary through trial-and-error. Our table worked best when we added a shim in the spot shown in the Shimming the Table Upright drawing.
/^) Align the slidingtableand saw (- table edges flush front and , back, and clamp them there. Placeat7/64" brad-pointbit into the hole in the lock block. and tap the bit to make a mark on the lower rail. QRemove the sliding table \,land lower rail. then drill a sAa"hole where you marked. DETAIL Use a countersinkto cut a Vto" chamfer on the top rim of the drilled hole. Reinstall the sliding table and lower rail. /l Attach the wood fence (D) with %" "Fcariage bolts, knobs, and washers, as shown in the Exploded View and Fence Exploded View. The oil drain plug gasketsshown raise the fence off JReattach the motor and put your new the sliding table slightly. I slidinstableto work! You'll love its velvety-s"moothaction and increased ATup the holesin the endsof the guide t ,/bar with a sAo-18 Screwthe stops tap. cutting capacity.i (H) to the endsof the aluminumguidebar. ftCut the rip-fencerails wheremarked L,fpreviously with tape. Reattachthe Written by Bill Krier with Ghuck Hedlund ProjectDesign:JamesR. Downing rails, and checkfor interference with the lllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson sliding table. You may need to shorten Photographs: Wm. Hopkins, Hetherington & the front rail further. Associates, Hetherington Photography
59
stvle Shaker-
blanket Ghest
WOOD magazine
October 2000
Edge-join 3/q" cherry to form slightI ly oversized panelsfor the back (A), sides(B), front (C), shelf (D), botrom (E), and the lid (F). Use biscuits or splinesto join the boards,keepingthem several inches from the ends of the glued-uppanelsand along the top edge of the back (A) that will be cut later. This is to preventan exposed splineor biscuit later. For more on gluing up solid stock, seepage 43. f) Sandthe surfaces smooth,and cut I the back (A), sides (B), and front panel (C) to the finished size listed in the Bill of Materials. Q Mark and rout the notch along the \J bottom edgeof the back panel (A), where shown on the Parts View and Routing the Notch drawings. joints along the A To form the box -T endsof the back (A), sides(B), and front (C), startby buildingthe box-joinr I
Start with the edgejoined cherry pan-els
jig on page 66. Then, seethe article on page 68 for usingthejig. R l-uy out andcut the box joints along t-,1 the back edge of each side (B), where noted with numeral 1 on the Carcase and PartsView drawings. Align the bottomedgesof one side ft \,/ panel (B) with the bottom edge of the back (A). Transfer the location of the mating notchesto the back panel as shownin PhotoA. Use thejig to cut the box joints, where noted with numeral 2 on the drawing and shown in Photo B. (We test-cutscrapstock first.) t/2" rabbet Vq"deep along the J Cut a I front edge of the shelf (D), where shown on the Carcase drawing. anduserhejig to Q Mark the location, \J cut the box joints in the endsof the front (C). Seenumeral3 on the drawing for reference. Using the Parts View as a guide, Q v/ transf-erthe notch locations from the front panel (C) to thefront edge of
the sides(B). Remove the pin from the jig, and cut the first notch in the front edgeof a side (B). Positionthe pin back in place and finish routing the joints, where noted with numeral 4 on the drawing.Repeatfor the front edgeof the other sidepanel.
3/+"grooves:/s" deepin J Vart and cut I the back (A) and sides(B) ro fit the shelf (D), bottom panel (E), and lid support (G). To locate the groovesuse the dimensions on the Parts View, being careful to align the grooves with the notches and fingers, where shown on the drawing. Cut the grooves on the insideface of each panel, keeping the good face out. nepeat the processin step I above ! L- to cutthe V+"groove/+" deepalong the insideface oftie front panetlC; for the shelf (D).
Continued
Form the grooves and cut the curved back next
With the bottom edges aligned, mark the notch locations on the back panel.
Use the jig to rout the notches in the ends of the back panel.
CARCASE
3/axVa x 3/a"
plug
1/+"gloove th" deep 1/2" lrom bottom edge
3/aXa/qXt/2" plUg
* Denotes order of cutting the box joints.
t/cxYaxr/2"plug
61
blanket chest
A- backoanel g/qu 225/a' 521/2' EC B- sidepanels lcu 20s/a' 171/s"EC C- frontpanel lcn 93/q' 521/2' EC D- shell F. lid G lidsupport {cn 16Vd' 51Vq' EC
EC
PANELS CARCASE
1 2 1 1
BASE TRIM H- Jront

l- sides
3/tu
25/a'
54',
Note: Cut oafts labeledwith an * oversize. T r i m t o f i n i s h e ds i z e a c c o r d i n gt o t h e h o w - t oi n s t r u c t i o n s . Materials Key: EC-edge-joined cherry, C-cherry, B-birch, BP-birch plywood. Suppfies: #16x1/2" brads, clear finish. Buying Guide Hardware. Three Soss "invisible" hinges, t/2x23/a", catalog no. 140472; two Shaker 'l t/+" cherry knobs, diameter wilh r/2"tenon, catalog no. 125437.Woodcraft, 8001225-1153.
Vt'
25/a' 177/s' C
2 2 4
2
E- bottom oanel s/q' 165/a' 51Vq' EC

3/cu 151/q' 50Vq'
DHAWERS 43/a" 25sAa" C J fronts 4t' '16' B K sides /z' 47hd' 1/z' 313A6" 2413/$'t B L backs
M bottoms N ouides 1/cu 145A6" BP 2413A6" 1/su 11/z' 141Aa" B
3/q'
17/a' 51"
2 4
H I N G ED E T A I L
'157s" B t/q" 0 guides/stops 1/2"
EXPLODEDVIEW
hinge Soss"invisible"
lqx1/qxVz" plug
Miteredends
3/s )< 3/a y 1/2t'
plug
3/s ><3/a )< 3/s''
11/2"
121/sz 177/e"
1r/+"-dia. wooden knob
t/a" g?:p
1/aX 1/q X't/2" pltJg
11/z'
#16 x t/2"brad
62
CUTTING DIAGRAM
@
3/qx 111/q 96" Cherrv x
@
3/q 91/q 60" Cherry x x
3/qx111/qx96"
3/qx 111/q 60" Cherrv x
@
3/qx 71/qx 96" Cherry
l@
@
t/zx9t/q 96" Birch x
o
3/ax 111/q 96" Cherrv x
z] |
@
*Planeor resawto the thickness listedin the Billof Materials.
1/q 48 x 48" Birch plywood x
3/+ 71/q 60" Cherry (3 needed) x x
@
3/qx71/q 60" Cherry (3 needed) x
,fI
I-_
{
*1-*l
Grooveror@t
Curveends at top of notch

l-'1
3/q'
-l
BACK (lnside face)
ll s7a"gl 1/ = l 1 ' .*{ '/ l
Backedge
/A
@t
l"i^ l_l_
|\
l-Tl*
*
l/ay|/ay1/2''
laXV+xt/r" ; filler block ;
r r
'/axs/+x1/z" f filler block J ,vo'

| 170"
lr
I
?"I lr
C
ll
rt / . " \
"4--,. r r t t r
SIDE I (lnsideface) I 1....", ..- 'l^ - ,,i l Groove for Q)1 '\"0" grooves y' 3/a"dee? \-Groove for (E)
171/8"
+
1"ro'
41/z'
Groovefor CD-. -'-'\7\
V+"grooveye"deep -, \
Half fi
lI 71/a" I
1?/8
J"ro'
17/a"
3/ex 3/qx -3le"iller block f
PARTS VIEW
fillerblock
1/^tt
,-'.| -_ ''/"I ,_|

|
\ - E
\ \
\
"
*Denotesorder of cutting the box joints. fillerblock
1/a Sq 1/a y 1/2''
H I N G EM O R T I S E E T A I L D
+5r!
t
1Vs"
LID SUPPORT
t'-'-------T--------,
47/a'
i__:1 l'!:" tl
v+,ilit/2"
23/e"
15
l
I
'7s2"pilot hole
Continued
63
t
blanket chest
Q fo fill the voids createdin the fin\../ gers when cutting the grooves,cut filler blocks to the sizes noted on the PartsView drawing. Glue the blocks in place, and later sandsmooth. A Lay out the curve along the top -T edge of the back panel (A). (We used a Vqxt/qx60" fairing stick to ensurea smooth curve.) Be careful to align the ends of the curve with the top of the top box joints, where shown on the Back pattern on the PartsView drawing. Cut and sand to the line to form the curve. (no glue) the assembly Q Dry-fit the \,, (A-E) to double-check fit of all the pieces. Once satisfied with the fit, glue and clamp the entire assembly together,checkingfor square.(We used white glue to lengthenassembly time.) When gluing the shelf (D) in place, apply glue only along the front edge of the panel to allow for movement.
Add the base trim

J Cut the base pieces(H, I) to size I plus I " in lensth. !^ Strape the t6p front edge of the E- basepiecesusingthe Formingthe BaseTrim drawingsfor reference. Miter-cut th; base pieces to a \J lensth. Mark and cut the bottom edge of"the front piece (H) using the same procedure as used to form the bottom edgeof the back (A). A Glue and clamp the trim pieces (H, I) to the chest. T
Add the lid pieces

I
Measureand cut the lid support(G) to | fit snuglybetween sides(B) where the shown on the Carcase drawing. Cur rhe lid (F) ro finished size, O A_ssemblingthe 4- allowine t/s" clearance eachend on chest carcase and3/s"ou.rf,ung along the front. Positionth;lid (F) and the lid supJ Dry-fit (no glue) the box-jointed e I panels(A, B, C) together, checking L/ port (G) on your workbench. for square. Center G behind F, and clamp the two N4.urur" the openings,and cut the piecestogether.Lay out the centerlines D E- shelf (D) and bottom (E) to finfor the invisible hinges using the Parts ished size. (To measure the opening View for reference. width, we clampedtwo Vqx2xl2" strips A Lay out the mortisesfor the three -t of wood together, as shown in the hinges using the Hinge Mortise Determining the Opening drawing detail accompanying the Parts View below. Once both strips bottomedout in drawing. Drill Vz"holes as shown in the the grooves, we tightened the clamp. Hinge Mortise drawing, and chisel the Then, we removedthe clamped-together waste between the holes to form the strips from the carcase,and measured mortises. Check the fit of the hinges in the distancefrom the ends of the strips. the mortises.See the Buying Guide for Then, we repeated the process with our sourcefor hingesand pulls. longer strips to determinethe length of Ctue and clamp the lid support(G) fi the panels needed.)Cut the panels (D, U,l in the groovein the back panel (A). E) to the size of the measured openings After the glue dries, install the three less %" in width. This is to allow for hingesto connectthe piecesand check expansionand contraction. the fit.
FORMING THE BASE TRIM

Step 1 Fence
Step2
Fence
DETERMININGTHE OPENING
HINGE MORTISE
Allow r/e"gap for expansionof @.
64
WOOD magazine
October 2000
II
Build a pair of drawers next
I Cut the drawerfronts (J), sides(K), I and backs (L) to the sizes listed in
| the Bill of Materials. | -1/ | /2,,slidingdovetail
r/2" stidins I l-.l
.g?"."]?il I 1/4" kal deep
lWl r2,,
camewith your jig for propersetup. Q using"tttesa-. doveiail bit, \J cut the dovetail dado in the
p,"x"',?,r;iTf #:': ijlllj'i:T""."t'H.",fJ?,#,',1*

hole Vz"
O 1
Using a standard half-blind V2" ooveLit jig, cur the doverails for
- --'- :r=? %1
table-mounted router to cut a dovetail-shaped tenon along the ends of the drawer back (L) to fit
1221/sz"
q-
tightlyinto thedovetail groove in the drawersides.(We cut scrapstock first to verify thefit of thetenonin the
dovetail
1/q,,_dia. wooden knob
'!;'",,n'l:;"r{irolli33n"
Y*-l--/\-J,
lfi
| \ ,/ Y/r" h^tt-btind dovetaits
DRAWER
7,."deep
edgeof the drawersidestrl anAfron't

edgeof the sides' . .1 A Cut the sroove in the drawer sides a andfroritsfor the drawer bottoms. femporarily clamp each drawer (
drawer ) Note whle ron uacts that the
groove before cutting
the
l\
I )OWn
y
r Mirror Hall
!'l#: #J,li*il"*:H*J?ff ke r Pl a n s J"l sha :T

Looking for even more great shaker projects? If so, visit the DownloadablePlanssectionin the WOOD STORE@ WOOD ONLINE@. at
lOaO
aO le
H;:X##;.?|J::?:#:TH:
reference),and cut the drawer bottoms (M) to size. Disassemble the drawers,
withthe capablities ortodav's erectronic

transmissions commerce,we are able to and offer the finest quality downloadable plans on
ft ctue and clamp each drawer checking square. for L,/ together, 7 From t/4" stock, cut the drawer I guides(N, O) ro size.Glue and brad-nail drawerguides(N) to the the
bottom of the drawer, being careful to keepthe guidessquarewith the front of the drawer. Spacethe guides so part O slideseasilv betweenthem. Rttach the lower drawer guides(O) f] L,f to the carcase with double-faced tape to ensureproper location and clearance. Once satisfied with the way the drawersslide,nail the guidesin place.i
into drawer the each Internet' llX,t6lt* lfl ffrf
Visit our Plans Section at http://woodstore.woodmall,com or our MagazineWebsite at http://ururw.woodmagazine.com

Hall rable Quilt Stand
Written by Marlen Kemmet ProjectDesign:James R. Downing Photographs:Hetherington Photography lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson
wrvw.wood
m a gazi ne. co m
65
I ' It
i: it
;{
- l
i)x
Li
'
$f* qut mostbox joi

blanket chest on pa
ox
bit. Q Fit your routerwith a 1" straight \,/ As shown on the Plate drawing, clamp a straightedgeparallel to the markedslot and distanced from the center of the slot by half of the diameterof the routerbase. Rout the slot completely throughtheplatein several passes %" for bestresults. The sides the slot mustbe of smooth, straight, andparallel. A Set up a dadobladeto cut a groove T that's Vq" deep and matches the thicknessof your plywood. Cut the markedgrooves the plate(A) andveron tical fence(B). You may needto slightly increase width of the groovein partA the so the edgeof partB slidessmoothly, but not looselv.in it.
[:
big box, we deve hefd router.lt's simpl

First, let's make the large parts
From %" plywood cut parts A, B, I and C according to the Bill of Materials. On the plate (A) mark the position of the t/+" carrrage-bolt holes and radiused front corners, as shown on the Exploded View drawing. Also mark the location of the lx33/s" guide-bushing slot shown on the Plate drawing. O On the bottom surface of the plate, 1- mark the location of the 3/t"-wrde, centered groove that runs the length of -wrde the plate. Then, mark another 3/q" I groove on the vertical fence (B) located 7/tz" from its top edge, as shown on the Exploded View drawing.
A little assemblyand youtre almost there

Glue and clamp the horizontalfence I tCt into the groovein part B. Be sure the partsform a 90" angle. After theglue dries, drill and countersink3A2." pilot holes,and secure partswith #8xl t/+" the flathead wood screws. -) Clamp the B/C assemblyin your 1- benchvise and placethe plate (A) on top of it with the top edgeof part B sitting in the groovein the plate.Align the part endsand clamp them together. Drill the markedW' carriage-bolt holes. Removethe plate,and elongate two the holes in part C t/c" in both directions alongthe lengthof thejig. I
66
WOOD magazine
October 2000
1/zlhe diameter of the router base
B vert.fence
lsu
61/q' 18' 37/a' 18'
P P
1 1
C horiz. fence lqu
Straightedge
n
3s/a' 1 x 3s/a" g u i d e - b u s h i n gs l o t 3/q"graave t/+" deep
pin D guide E kev attbchmentVt'
11/z' 21/2" P
Materials Key:P-plywood, M-maple other or wood. dense Suppfies: #8x1t/q" flathead (6]r,,/0x2" wood screws " ( c a r r i a g b o l t s 2 ) ,t / a f l a tw a s h e r ( 2 ) ,7 n " i n g e s w n u t s( 2 ) .
'--1
13/a'
3/qx37/e 18" plywood x
3/ax3/qx2"
solid stock /=
2,
7+" gfOOve r/q" deep, centered
#8 x 11A'F.H. wood screw, countersunk

e/qx61/ax18"
plywood
,J
13/q'
-l-\---l4" -
7+"groove t/q" deep 7/ez"-ttom edge'of top @ flat washer
\--rl+" wing nut
3/+" (A) atop the B/C from the slot you cut in the previous Q Place the plate \J assemblyagain, flush their ends, step (see Exploded View drawing). and tap the carriage bolts into their Align the slot in the plate (A) atop holes.Add the flat washers, and tighten assembly BiC so your routerwill cut a 34"-deep on your marks.Clamp the with wing nuts. slot plate to the assembly, and rout the slot A Mount a l"-O.D. guide bushingto T the baseplate your router. Add a just as you did in the previousstep. of 34" strarghtbit (we recommendusing one with a Vz" shank),and adjustit so it Add the guide pin and you'll sticks V4" out of the guide bushing. be cutting joints in no time Positionthe guide bushingin the slot in I From solid stock (we used maple), the plate (A), and rout throughassembly I cut a 3/+x3/qx2" guide pin (D). Check BlC. Make progressivelydeeper cuts its side-to-side in the second fit slot you until the cut in the assembly t/+"deep. cut in assembly is B/C. It needs be snug. to end to fit fi Removethe carriagebolts and plate Now, mark andcut its radiused t.,/ (A). Mark on C the position of the in the slot. Placethe pin in its slot. Do slot that holds the guidepin (D) exactly not glue it.
Cut part E accordingto the Bill of ) 4- Materials. Flip the jig over and positionE over the radiused end of D. (Seethe Key Attachment Detail.) Drill pilot holesin E that and countercinkl/s+" go Vt" deepinto C and D. Attach E to C and D with #8x1t/q"woodscrews . and sharpedges. Q Sandall surfaces \-/ That's it. Now, turn the pageto find out how to put this jigtasticjoint maker to work. Once you have this jig set up, you'll find it a breeze to make large boxesof many sizesand shapes.df
Written by Bill Krier with James R. Downing and Jim Boelling Photograph:Baldwin Photography lllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine
67
box lolnts
,ons#large
jig cuts box joints wtth t/+x3/+" fhis I pins and matching notches stock in that's ideally about34" thtck. Although you can use the jig with stockof other w thi cknesses, e thi nk 3/1"pins and notches look bestin 3/+" stock. Your panelscan be any length and width, just rememberto make them about1" wider thantheir finishedwidth. Doing that will allow you to trim them for evenlysizedpins and notches the at top and bottomof eachjoint later.
'l Prepare your I project panels

Mark the top edgesand face sides(the surfacesthat will face outward in the assembledbox) on each of the four panels.Number each of the adjoining panel ends so that you can match up your adjoining piecesat any point in process. this machining Grab two panelswith adjoining ends. Position the panels face side-to-face side, top edges facing the same direction. Align their ends flush and offset one panel 7+". (See the Offset Panels drawing below that showstwo panels after being cut for box joints.) Clamp the panels together and stand them upright so the endsare aboutchest high. (For the blanket chestpanels,we stood the longer of the two clamped panels on the floor and held them uprightin a benchvise.)
Ready your router

Put a l"-O.D. guide bushing in your router's base, and install a 3/+" straight bit. Turn the router upsidedown and set the jig on the router's base.Now, adjust the height of the bit using a scrap block that matches the thicknessof your panel stock, as shown below. Then, raise the bitVtz". Now, set the distancebetweenthe bit and the jig's guide pin to exactly 3/+". A scrap of z/a"-thickstock works well for doing this, as shown in the photo below. To adjust this spacing,loosen the wing nuts, and slide the two horizontal plates of the jig ever so slightly. Retightenthe wing nuts.
Match the height of the router bit to the thickness of a scrap piece from your panel stock, then raise the bit t/sa". ^-, '{ Rig the jig
The bit-to-guide-pin distance should exactly match a %"-thick piece of scrap.
gf Place the jig on top of the clamped panels with its guide pin touching the edge of the workpiece that's offset to your left. Clamp both ends of the jig to the panels.Placethe router bit and guide bushing into the end of thejig's slot closest to you. Turn on the router, hold it against left sideof the slot, andpushit the forward to the other snd of the slot to cut a pin and matchingnotches. Turn off the routerand wait for the bit to stopspinning beforelifting the routeroff thejig. Remove the debris from the jig and panelnotches. Placethe guidepin into the notchyoujust cut, andrepeat process, the asshownat right, until you cut all the way to the other edge of the panel.For all of the cuts, rememberto hold the bushing Work from your left to right when cutting againstthe left side of rhejig slot to help the pins and matching holes across the ends of two clamped panels. ensure consistent holes.
Check your results

You shouldbe able to tap the box joints togetherby hand. If you have to force them togetherwith a mallet, you may break a pin and the joints will be too tight to hold enough glue. Sloppy joints will prove weak and unattractive. To fine-tune the box-joint fit, loosen the wing nuts and slide the guide pin closer to the bit in the caseof too-tisht
Written by Bill Krier with James R. Downing www.woodmagazine.com
joints. Sliding the guide pin further away from the bit will result in tighter joints. Be patientwith this step; it may take several trials with very slight adjustments get things right. to Also check that the ends of the pins stick slightly out of the notchesso you can sandthe joints flush. If the pins are short, increasethe depth of the router-
bit cut. In the event the pins are too long, decrease cutting depth. the Trim the panelsto width, being careful to leaveevenly sizedpins and matching notchesat both panel edges.Add some glue and clamp two panels at a 90o angle,thenglue andclamp the othertwo panels. After the glue dries, glue and clamp thesetwo assemblies.S
lllustration: Kim Downing
Photographs:Baldwin photography
69
".j
i:.is
T-f 7ood that's too wet when you t /l / work it can wreak havoc with It l, Too muchmoisV Y your projects. ture warpstabletops, checksthe endsof boards, crackslegs,andresults loosein fitting joints. Stock that's too dry also problems: causes When relativehumidity climbs, the wood swells, causing doors and drawersto stick. In extreme cases, swellingcanevenblow apart this your fine joinery. To preventsuch catastrophic results, your stock'sequilibriummoisturecontent (EMC) must be in sync with your climate (see box at right). The job of measuringEMC falls to a moisture meter.And to help you choose right the one for your needs,we tested the ten models shown at right, ranging from $60 to S285. 70
How dry is dty enough?

Forbuilding indoorprojects mostof the U.S.,you'llget bestresults in when your stock'sEMC lies in the 7-10 percentrange.However, areaswith in you higheror loweraveragerelativehumidities, couldsee EMCs as high as 11 percent as low as 6 percent. or So what'sthe optimummoisture contentfor your project wood?The best way to find out is to take an EMC readingon a pieceof woodenfurniture yourhomefor a while,and usethisas a benchmark that has beenaround for checking new stock. Once your stock reaches that benchmark, has acclimated the enviit to you can beginworkingit. Sure,it's hard ronment whereit will be used,and to resistthe excitement startinga new project,but waitingbeforeyou of your projectself-destruct dive in beatswatching beforeyour eyes.
WOOD magazine
October 2000
Pin-pointing EMG: One-way to get the story

Seven of the meters we tested detect moisture content via a pair of pins, spaced 3/t-1" ?pd, that you push or drive into the wood. Activating a switch sendsa slight electricalchargedown one pin, through the wood, up the other pin and back to the meter (as shown in the photo at right). Internal circuifiy then measures the electrical conductance between the pins (wet wood conducts electricity more readily than dry wood), and converts that measurement to an EMC reading. Pin-type moisture meters have lots going for them. First, wood dries from the outsidein, and the pins read moisture below the surfacewhere its averagecontent usually is located. Wittr a pinned meter you also can take readings on the edgesof thin boardsor moldings, or even end grain. Somepinned models provide jacks for you to add externalprobesthat you place at different points in a stack of wood and connectwith leadsto the meter. Or, plug in a hammer electrode (an accessory with longer pins than the meter's built-in pins) to take readings at several different depths. This process helps detect an uneven drying condition called a moisture gradient. A moisture gradient can causeproblems when machining exposes a wetter interior, especially with thicker material, such as turning stock. (Seethe chart at the end of this article to see which models have jacks to accept externalprobes.) Pin-type meters have one drawbackthey make small holes that mar the surface of the wood. Usually you can plan a project so that the holes end up on the back or inside of a piece. But we can't recommend that your take a pin-type meter to an exotic hardwoods dealer and punch a bunch of holes in stock you haven't paid for yet.
Meters with pins, such as the DelmhorstJ-Lite at left, are sometimescalled "resistance" meters,although they measurethe wood's conductivity. Pinless meters,such as the WagnerL606at right, are also known as electromagnetic meters becausethey use radio wavesto measurewood moisture.
Pinless meters: Look lrl?r no holes

The three pinless moisture meters in our tests operate on a different principle. These broadcast elecffomagnetic radio waves,such as those shown in the photo above,and measurethe rate at which the waves bounce back to the meter, a process akin to radar. fhis determines the board's density, and-within the same species-the denser a board, the more moisture it contains. Pinless meters havd. two advantages over pin-type sensors.First, they don't leave any holes behind after testing. An emitter pad simply contacts the surface of the wood. And, by moving a pinless meter along the entire surfaceof a board, you'll quickly learn its moisture content at many different points, rather than just in a small area. Trouble is, pinless-meterreadingscan be affected by tight grain, hidden knots, or the smoothness the wood surface. of (On rough-sawn lumber, the emitter restson the tops of the "hills" left by the sawmill; tiny air spaces between the
emitter and the "valleys" effect a pinless meter's accuracy.)Even anotherpiece of stock directly below the piece you're testing can throw offthe reading.That's why the meter's instruction manual warns you to keep at least l" of clear air spacebelow the test area. Also, becausethe meter's emitter pad requires more surface area than just a couple of pins, pinlessmetersdon't read thin edgesor small pieceswell. And you can't connectan externalprobe to a pinless meter, so you're limited to testing boardsoutsidea stack,or pulling a board out of a stackfor scanning.
Hot from the oven: How we tested the metens

For our tests,we cut dozensof samples of air-dried red oak, and kiln-dried red oak and cherry, then took moisture readings of the sampleswith each meter. To determine ttre actual moisture content of each sample, we used an oven-drying test developedby the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Forest Products Laboratory. Continued
Ilelmhord J-rt
ffl-: ;+ULih;
-i:til-" Delmhont crlm Lignomat Irllni:Lbno c Lignomat. Inl-ilgno Dxc Pratlmetr BLI!s7(n B35ll wagrer Ldl6
71
dETEBTives
This procedure involvesweighingeach sampleon a jeweler's scale,slowly baking the moisture out of the wood, then weighingthe samples again.(To be sure we'd removedall the waterwe could.we bakedthe samples additional4 hours, an and weighedthem a third time.) A simple calculation gave us the true initial moisture-content eachsample. of As the Rating The Readings chart below shows,all of the metersread our kiln-dried red oak samples within about 0.5 percentof the actual EMC-plenty accurate in the crucial 7-10 percent range. On the other hand, none of the metersdid well with our wetterair-dried oak, reading5-8 points off the mark. On our kiln-dried cherry samplesaround 6 percent EMC-all the meters did better.But some,suchas the Timber Check, can't even display readings below 6 percent. Remember, though, that from a woodworker'spoint of view, readingsabove 20 percentand below 6 percent are moot because you want materialwith 7-10 percentEMC to ward
lf you need to measure deep into a workpiece, consider a meter that will accept a hammer electrode for deep readings, such as the Lignomat shown.
off shrinkage swelling-related or defects in your projects. We found that readings taken with external probes (such as the hammer electrode shown in the photo above) were every bit as accurate thosetaken as with built-in probes.But keep in mind: The externalprobescanreaddeeper, and most are insulated exceptat their tips, so they can give you a picture of moisture levelsat differentdepths.
o Pin penetration. All of the pin-type metershave pins at one end of the case.
Other considerations besides accuracy
RATING THE READINGS

RED #1 I OAK RED #2 OAK I CHTNRV
_-*"n
$u
DELMHOBST ELECTROPHYSICS
s
J-Lite J-4
24.9
24.1
6%#/ % # #a/
18
18
-6.9
-o. I
8.7
8.5
0.2
6.0
6.4
1.0
9.0 8.7
8.5
8.5 9.5 8 8
d.b
0.5 0.8 0.5 -0.5 0.0 0.6 -0.6 0.3

4.1
<6.5 6
unknown
MI27O cT1 00
Mini-Ligno C
23.8 18.5 23.2 24.7

zJ.4
-5.3 4.2 -8.7

5.4
6.1
o. l
-0.1 3.9 0.3 0.3

unknown
19 16 18 18 16
10
b
8.5
d.b
5.7
5.5 5.6 5.4 5.6 5.8
LIGNOMAT
Mini-LignoDXC
5.2
PROTIMETER
BLD5TOO
25.0 23.8 20.8

21.1
-7.0
I.d
8.7
8.6
9.3
8 I
'11
TIMBER CHECK WAGNER
8350
1606 1609
<6
unKn0wn
t8
18
-2.8
-J. I
8.7
8.6
6.5 10
0.9
1{O|ES: 1. All readings taken withmaterials 700F. at Measured readings EMC reflect species correction. (-) Reading of meter's out range.
Remove the cover, grasp the case,and pressthe pins into the wood. We had no trouble seatingthe pins on any of the models in our test, but we especially liked the Lignomat metersbecause the contoured cap, when placedon the other end of the meter,becomes comfortable a pushhandle. Besides built-in pins, the Protimeter BLD-5700 comes with an external probe,but because the probe's small of size we had trouble pushing its thick pins into wood samples.(If you often work with thick hardwoodsthat resist hand-drivenpins, we suggest equipping your meterwith a hammerelectrode.) o Reading the results. Moisture meters display readingsin one of three waysdigital; analog; or as a light-emitting diode (LED) bar display,with eachLED representing a percentagerange. We liked the digital metersbecause their displays leaveno room for interpretation or guessingwhat the meter is telling you. Analog meters require a little more attention than digital versions because their metersslowly sweepbackandforth beforesettlingon a final reading. If you're going to be usingyour meter outdoors,you'll find the liquid-crystal (LCD) digital and analogdisplayseasiest to read in direct sunlight.All of the LED-baseddisplayswere impossibleto read in such conditions.unlessshaded by a hand. . Speciescorrection All but one of the meters in our test are calibratedto the meter-industrystandardof Douglas Fir at 70"F. The lone exception is the Timber Checkmeter,which comescalibratedfor red oak. To accountfor different wood temperatures,densities, and resistance, most of the meterscome with a correctionchart you must consult to calibratethe meter to the species you're testing. This canbe time-consuming, somemeterscome and with graph-style chartsthat are difficult
72
MEASURE UP METERS HOWTHEMOISTURE
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probe capability. andexternal withlongpinsfor deep A pocket-size meter LCD display for measurements digital and 1 5 9 goodreadability, in direct sunlight. even probe we that external Comes a small with woods. loundhard driveintohard to designed with Inexpensive seemingly meter in The in 60 woodworkersmind. onlymeter the
meters, digital with 0ur pickof thepinned that EMC 0.1 in LED readout shows
PROTIMETER
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TIMBER CHECK
8350
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WAGNER
1609 pin less o\/ BAR
4-22+
1lz
1x21lz
N/A
USA
NOTES: 1. (N) No
(Y) Yes
2. (ANA)Analog (BAR)LED bar (LCD)Liquid-crystal digital (LED) LED digital 5.I (0NE)Single LED 3. (C) Chart (l) Internal
length thepins. of 4. Forpinned meters, equals meters, indicates depth penetration 0f Forpinless signal. of electromagnetic - 7/ro" alsoshipped meter. pins with Excellent
G cooo
[Elr.i'
(C) Carrying case probe (E) External (F) Field-calibration kit (H) Hammer electrode pins (P) Extra (R) Remote electrode (T) Touch sensor probe (W) Wires external ior
Where gel moreinformation: to (CAN)Canada Protimeter North America Delmhorst 800/321-4878 (UK)United Kingdom 800t222-0699 www.moisture-meter.com (USA)United www.delmhorst.com States Timber Check Prices accurate time Electroohvsics at (ComProTec) production. S00/244-0908 of article's www.electr0physics.on.ca 613/256-5437 Electronics Wagner Lignomat 800t227-2105 800/634-9961 www.lignomat.com www.moisturemeters.com
p eoot
to read (and easy to lose!). The ElectrophysicsCT100 and Lignomat metershave species-correction built in. You "tell" the meter what species you're going to test,and the meterautomatically adjustsfor it.
Now then, which one should you buy?

If you're a turner or the kind of person who likes to mill, stack, and dry your own lumber (or can't passup a barn full of bargain lumber at an auction), we recommendthe Lignomat Mini-Ligno DXC. At $199 it's one of the higherpriced models,but we feel the DXC's accuracy, internalcorrection,and exterwww.woodmagazine.com
nal-probecapability for checking deep into the materialmakeit worth the extra bucks. If you don't need the external probeand don't mind using a correction chart, the Timber Check-for only $60-delivers no-frills accuracy. On the other hand, if you primarily need to ensure the kiln-dried stock you're buying is ready to machine,go pinless.Here,the WagnerL606 showed us a higher degreeof accuracyacross the broad range of wetnesswe tested. But that accuracy comes at a price ($285). For about $85 less, the Electrophysics CT100 gives near-equal accuracyin the critical range and provides internalspecies correction.Q
Herets your chance to respond to this review

You've heard what we have to say about these moisture meters. Now, log onto the WOODMALL@ website and respond at www.woodmall.com, to our review. Does your experience with these meters agree with ours? Click on the "Interactive Tool Reviews" button and join the dialogue with the manufacturers and other WOOD@ magazinereaders.
Written Jim Hufnagelwith Dave Campbell by Dave Henderson Technical consultant: Photographs: Baldwin Photography
73
.-,.1a.
lockwork L;nderglass
is a graceful tall clock that looks at home in traditional and contemporary surroundings. ,xposedmovement featuring large brass gears ms through glass panels framed in walnut, still, the movement comes as a ready-toble kit. Thanks to the spare detailing, focus shared by the craftsmanship of the case and the within.
ization is essential
: Our clock case consists of two of frames. For the top, base, and
we Qhose stub-tenon and groove
ts wph plywood panels glued in . Fog the sidesand doors, we opted framesfastenedwith pocket rabbeted frames houseglass types of frames have memare 3h" thick and lUz" wide. B, C, E, and F'are the samesize, i,redifferent milling, depending where they are used. For consis',results, all similar operations at do enough zAxIVz" stock for Cut all these parts about than listed on the Bill of ,and set aside some extra use for test cuts. As vou cut g'4f-ts A-G,lay them out on the floor, and them with chalk indicating the be grooved for plywood panels to be rabbetedfor glass. the edgesthat get groovedor Note that in the lower casetop , (4, E, L), shown on the Frame Assembly drawing, the two rails (E) havii stubtenonsbut no grooveor rabbet. fJ Gather all the oarts A-G marked for groou"s, I and cut the grooves.To get a square-bottom, centeredgroove of the roper width, use a single blade (not a hipggg)-fromyour stack dado set. Make
two passes, one from each side. When making the cuts,control the pieceswith feather boards to insure grooves of uniform width and depth. Q Clamp an auxiliary fence to your \,f tablesaw rip fence. Gather all the parts A-G marked for rabbets and cut therabbets the edges. before,confrol in As the pieces with feather boards to insure rabbetsof uniform depth and width. ,{ Crosscutall the parts A-G to finish T length. Attach an auxiliary fence to your tablesaw miter gauge, and use a stopblock to set the length. To insure squareness the frames, cut all likeof letteredpiecesat the sametime. ( Form the stubtenonson the grooved r. / case/siderails (E), door/back rails (F), baserails (G), andthe two ungrooved case/side rails (E). To allow use of the same setup regardlessof the length of the piece,cut the tenonsas shownon the Forming the Tenonsdrawing. ff Cut the upper case top panel (H), L,l uppercasebackpanel(I), lower case back panel(J), and basepanel(K) to the sizeslistedon the Bill of Materials.Glue (we used a dark woodworker's glue), assemble,and clamp the upper casetop frame (A, E, H), upper caseback frame (C, F, I), lower caseback frame(8, F, J), and base frame (G, D, K). Glue and clamp the lower casetop frame (A, E), cut the filler strips (L), and glue them in the grooves, as shown on the Frame Assemblydrawing.
-l
I i
FRAME ASSEMBLY
t/a"tenon t/q" long 1/+"gfo}ve 10', fOrG) l
f;;L",""t'
on6ogt ---'
ttvz'toY@
1/c 1/q" x filler strips
\ {-z
t/q" rabbets 1/4"deep on top and bottom face
t/q" lenon t/4" long
t/+"rabbets t/c" deep on top and bottomface

t/a" tgnon t/q" long
TOP AND BASEFRAMES

S e ep a g e 1 1 0 f or f ull- s iz ep a tte rn .
t/+"grooves1/q" deep, centered on edge
LOWERCASETOP FRAME CASE SIDES AND DOORS

/r rnnor nlco
POCKET-HOLE DETAIL
Outsideface of frame
doorshown) Miter-gauge auxiliary fence
pockel screw 11/2"
joinl Rabbeted I \
:t4" dadg ade gbov "satly'+a
\-
ptug Pocket-hote /
Insideface of framesand doors /e" glass 8z/a" doors to( 4sle" sides for /a" rabbel
t/+" deep r/q" rabbel 1/2"deep
-:1
J Rabbet the ends of the remaining I case/siderails (E) and door/back rails(F), asshownon the CaseSides and Doors drawing.Use a setup similar to that shown on the Forming the Tenons drawing.As in Step5, cut all endrabbets using the samesetup.Test-fit this rabbeted rail-to-stilejoint carefully. The depth of the rabbetson the ends of the rails must mate with the rabbetson the stilesso the facesof the rails and stiles areflush.The width of the rabbets the on rails and stilesmustbe equalso the stile doesn'trotateslightly when the joint is pulledtogether the pocketscrew. by Drill the pocket holes in rhe inside Q L,/ facesof therabbeted rails (E) and(F),
Continued
h
#18 x 1/z
\|D
t/2"round-over. afterassembly
1/a 1/a"rabbets, x after assembly
,1,1/2"
brass
escutcheon pins
Drillpilot holesfor finishnails.
t/+"rabbets t/z" deep 1tZ"pocketscrew
50t/q"tol lowerdoor, back,and side frames 13th"tor upperdoor, back,and side frames
f_l ) \
47s/e" lower ; , / tot and lowerside frames 10s/a" upperdoor tor and uppersideframes
t\ il\
I
I I
I I
Pockethole plug Pocket-hole
\ 75
cloGkwork L;nderclass
as shown on the cur. sioland Doors drawing andPhotoA. (-) Glue and pocket screw the upper V casesideframes(C, E) andthe upper casedoor (C, F) together,as shown on the Case Sides and Doors drawing and Photo B. Assemblethe lower case side frames(B, E) andthe lower casedoor (B, F) in the samemanner.Glue pocket-hole plugsinto the holes,and sandthemflush. (You can make your own plugs from dowel stock,or seethe Buying Guidefor a source ready-made of plugs.) Form the radii on the top corners 1 n I \-/ of the upper caseback panel (C, F, I) and uppercasedoor (C, F), using a Vz" rotJnd-over in a table-mounted bit router,as shownin Photo C. rabbets on the 1 J Form the VsxVB" | | inside faces of the stiles of the lower casedoor and inside facesof the stilesof the lower caseback frame with a rabbetingbit mountedin a hand-held router.Rabbetonly the stiles.There are no rabbetsat the top or bottom of these frames. Rout the VexV8" rabbet on the inside facesof the stiles,and acrossthe top of the upper case door. Rout the same rabbet on the inside faces of the stiles and acrossthe top of the upper case back frame. The radius corners formed in Step 10 allow the rabbet to flow aroundthe top corners. not rout Do rabbets in the bottom edges of these frames.When the caseis assembled, the rabbets createa visualbreakbetween the backsand sides,and the doorsand sides. Flat frames make the case 1 nry assemblethe upper and lower I cases. shown in Photo D. Joint or as trim the frames as necessary achieve to flush outside edges. Now, glue and clamp the upper side framesto the upper back frame and the lower side frames to the lower back frame, keepingthe ends and edgesflush. Glue and clamp the top frame in placein the uppercasewith its top edgesflush with the tops of the side and back frames. Clean up any excess glue from the inside corners and the VexVB" rabbets. f) Miter-cut the reveal fronts/backs l fW and reveal sides(N) to size.To position the reveals in the upper and lower cases,clamp four blocks to the
Continued
Use a pocket-hole jig to drill the inside faces of the rabbeted rails.
A square keeps the edge of the rail flush with the end of the stile during assembly.
To prevent tear-out on the trailing faces of the stiles, use an auxiliary fence aftached to the miter gauge.
Check the fit of the upper case top frame in the upper case and the fit of the lower case top frame in the lower case.
CUTTING DIAGRAM D) GJ G)(9 (D (Et
BY P)
3/q x91/q 96" Walnut x

L)
o)
E E
(o)
E
(P F E)
(o)
(BY
(o)
s/qx91/+96" Walnut x *Planeor resawto the thickness listedin the Bill of Materials.
lqx24 x 48" walnutplywood
r/zx 5r/zx 96" Maple WOODmagazine October2000
76
't/e" rabbett/e" deep on inside face, along top and sides 1'11/2" I
Brassballcatch
t/2" brass knob
A- case stiles B.tlower stiles C.tupper stiles D. base stiles No rabbetor round-over
t\\
Yt
4+' Vt'
11/z' 10'
11/2" fi1/+'
W
W
4
I I
11/z' 13t/+' W
Yi
{+'
11/z'11Yz' W
11/z' 4{+' W
2
12
E-Tcase/side rails
71/4t --./
/\
No rabbetsor round-overs #4 x3/q"R.H. brasswood screw t/2"round-over on back face. alongsides t/s" rabbet t/a"deep on insideface. alongsides Miteredcorner
/2" round-overon outsideface, along top and sides 13/ex2"brass hinge ,
F.tdoor/back rails {+' rails G. base Vq' H upper case toppanel I upper case panel back J lower case panel back panel K base L filler strips M reveal fronts/backs N reveal sides O. molding fronVback P. molding sides Q movement supports R lower verticalstops S upper verticalstops
1/t'
11/z' I'
11/z' 6Vl'
W
W
I
2 1
71/2', 4{+', WP
w
Yi
1/+'
9" 10ilr' WP 1 9u 47Y4'WP 1

9' 6V4' WP 1
-Clock
movement /2" round-overon outsideface, along sidesonly
t/' W W
Yt
t/"
7'
2 4 4
2
1Y2" 1314a
LOWER CASE
t/a" 'r/e"rabbet deep on inside face, along sides only
1s/e' 10' M 1s/e' 71/s' M

21/z' 1Nq' W
{+' %' 7+'
2%" 10'
2 2 6 6 4 I 1
#8 x 1/2" F.H. brass wood screw
2%" 8%' W %' 47tl+' M 3/a' 10W M 3/a' I' M
Clock weight
Brass ball catch t/2"brass knob
!t' T door horiz. stops Yt U side horiz. stops 1/t' V bobcover W knot covers
Te' 4{+' M 3"diameter B 1' diameter B
Pendulum la" hole, centered Stop roundover here.
1
13' No rabbetor round-over
13/a 2" brass hinge x
'Parts initially oversized. tofinished cut Trim size accordinginstructions. to tParts thesame butrequiring of machinsize, different ingoperations. theillustrations. See plywood, Materials W-walnut, Key: WP-walnut M+naple, B-hardwood ball. (24), pocket-hole 1lz' Supplies: pockelscrews walnut (24), pfugs #18xlz" pins, tlalbrass escutcheon #Bxlt/2" (10),#4x/n'brass head wood brass screws roundhead (4l,1Vax2' (6), wood hinges brass screws brass ball (2), (2), glass, catches t/z'brass knobs single-strengh oilfinish. Buying Guide plus Movement: Clock Movement, Brass Kit $299.00 shipping, residents tax, Clock MT add The $15.00 Shop, Cottonwood Anaconda, 59711. 31'l St., MT Or call406/563-2498 to order. polished weight (caps, Weight: complete brass shell rod, hook), #087053, lead 9lb.-1202. weight, $12.25, #087055, NC add add $12.98, shipping, residents tax, lnc. 888752-7673 S.LaRose, Call toorder. plugs: pocket-hole #PWAL, plugs, Pocket-hole walnut (pack 50), shipping,residents tax, plus of lA add $5.95 Kreg Co.Call Tool 800/447-8638 to order.
BASE
#B x 1Vr" F.H:-brass wood screw j
--o
EXPLODED VIEW
Sides of base moldingare beveledat 10"

s/t" rabbet t/e" deep
Miteredcorners
77
clockwork under glass

cases,where shown in the Side Section View detailsand in Photo E. Apply glue to the case,position the reveal backs and sides against the blocks,and clamp them in place.Apply glue to the miters,and clamp the reveal front in place. Remove the blocks as soon as the reveals are in place, and cleanup any excess glue. Glue and clamp the lower casetop Q \,1 frame in place at the top of the lower case,as shownon the SideSectionView detail. Clamp blocks to the case as in Step2 for accurate positioning. Clamp the door to the lower caseand 1l --l- rout the stoppedround-overs on the vertical edges, as shown on the Exploded View drawing. Use a block clamped to the case to stop the router. Turn the caseover, and rout the edgesof the back frame in the samemanner.Rout all the stopped round-overs with the routerbaseriding on the sideof the case. This prevents routerbit pilot bearing the from slipping into the VtxVe"rabbet and forms a consistent shape where the round-overs stop. Clamp the upper door to the upper fi \,/ casewith the clamps at the top and bottom. Rout the round-overs all the on vertical edges.Repositionthe clampsto the sides, and rout the top round-overs, as shown in Photo F. When routing is complete, each top corner has a threeway round-over. ft Cut the basemoldings(O) and (P) to L,l size but l" longer than listed on the Bill of Materials.Cut the rabbetson the top edges, as shown on the Exploded View and Side SectionView drawings. Miter-cut the moldingsto fit aroundthe baseframe, and glue and clamp them in place. When the glue is dry, bevel the
SIDE SECTION VIEW

t/e'rabbet t/e"deep TOP FRAME /a" rabbet Ve"deep
UPPER CASE BACK FRAME
Clock movement
UPPER CASE DOOR
#4x/a" R.H. brass wood screw
Use a combination square to accurately position the blocks. A spacer clamped across the case keeps it from spreading when the reveal fronts are glued in place.
LOWER CASE BACK FRAME
7az'pilothole LOWER CASE TOP FRAME 7o+'shank hole, countersunk

9/ta"
LOWER CASE DOOR
#8x1/2" F.H. When routing the top of the upper case, VaxVa" strips of wood taped into the rabbets keep the pilot bearing from dropping into them.
10._*l
W(X)D magazine October 2000
78
moldings on the tablesaw, then sand away the saw marks. Clamp the completed base to the bottom of the lower case,centeredfront-to-back and side-toside. Drill pilot and shank holes, and screw the base to the lower reveal, as shown on the Side SectionView detail. two pieces of stock JFasten I 3/+x23Ax8Vz" together with doublefaced tape. Copy the Movement Support (Q) from page I10, and adhereit to the top piece with spray adhesive.Bandsaw the corner radii, and sand away the saw marks.Clamp the movementsupportsto the lower casetop frame at the top of the lower case, centered side-to-side and spacedwhere shown on the Side Section View detail. Drill the pilot and countersunk shankholes, and drive the screws. Q Clamp the upper case to the lower L,f case.The upper case is removed to mount and adjust the movement so this must be an easyfit. If the fit is too tight, sand the exposedsurfacesof the upper reveal. Drill the pilot and shank holes throughthe lower casetop frame into the upper reveal sides (N), as shown on the Exploded View drawing, and drive in the screws. (^) Luy out the locationsof the hingeson Y tft" doors,as shown on the Exploded View drawing. Mortise the hinges to the same depth as the rabbet in the edgesof the doors. Mount all the hinges, clamp the doors to the case, and transfer the hinge locations to the case stiles. Make the casemortises %0" deep.This allows Vtz" betuteen door and stile when the door is closed. Mount the doors on the case,and install the catchesand knobs. 1 n Cut and fit the glassstops(R, S, | \,, T, U). Drill all the glassstopsfor #l&xr/z" brassescutcheon pins, as shown on the Case Sides and Doors drawing. Space the escutcheonpin holes about
I l" aparton the lower vertical stops(R). Set the stopsaside. -l Drill the holes in the wood balls 1 | | for the pendulum bob cover (V) and the knot covers (W), as shown on the Bob and Knot Covers drawing. Great ldeas For Your Shop, page 16 showsyou how to make ball drilling jigs for this chore. After drilling, chuck the balls into the drill press,and finish sand them. Use a V+"bolt as a mandrel for the 3" ball and a /+" dowel as a mandrel for the l" ball. Final assembly: One step back,
The removableuppercase makesmounting and adjustingthe movement easy. lead weight in a decorativebrassshell to power our movement. (See the Buying Guide for our source.) Note: Direct all questions concerning assemblyor adjustmentof the kit movement to: Mike Kovacich, The Clock Shop, 3Il Cottonwood St., Anaconda, MT 5971I, phone (406)563-2498. on /l Centerthe movementside-to-side al'the movement supports (Q), and mark and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws, as shown on the Exploded View and Side Section View drawings. Screw the movementto the supports,as shown in Photo G. Slide the bob cover (V) and the bob onto the pendulum rod, and thread the knurled nut onto the rod. Hang the pendulum on the movement. Thread one knot cover (W) onto the weight end of the cord, and tie a loop. Hang the weight on the loop, and slide the cover down over the knot. Thread the other knot cover over the free end of the cord, tie a knot, and slide the cover down over the knot. fi Level the clock casewith shims and t ,/ adjust the beat of the movement according to the instructions that come with the kit. Fastenthe upper caseto the lower case. Correct for slow or fast running by adjusting the pendulum bob up or down with the knurled nut. When it reachesthe end of its travel, reset the weight by lifting it while pulling down on the free end of the cord. To avoid tarnishingthe brassshell, wear a glove or use a cloth when handling the weight.dl
Designed, built, and written by Jan Hale Svec lllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Hetherington Photography; Andrew & Go. Photography
four steps fonlrard

I Remove the doors, movement I mounts. and all hardware. Mark the movement mounts so they can be reassembled in the same locations. Separatethe upper case and base from the lower case.Finish sandall parts and assemblies 320-grit. Apply two coats to of a penetratingoil finish, following the instructions on the can. (We used Olympic AntiqueOil Finishno.41004.) f) Refastenthe baseand the movement Z -ount to the lowercase.Havesinglestrengthglass cut /s" less in length and width than the rabbetedopeningsin the doors and sides.Install the glasswith the 'escutcheon stops, driving the pins through the pre-drilled holes into the frames.Hang the doors on the casesand reinstall the knobs and catches. Q Now it's time to build the move\,f ment. See the Bill of Materials for our source.All partsare pre-cut and only require de-buning and polishing before assembly. Detailed instructions are included, and no specialtools are needed. The movement kit does not include the weight that powersit, but the instructions include a method for making your own wood-encasedweight. We used a
S'dia. wood ball
BOBAND KNOTCOVERS
l"-dia. wood ball
--{s2" hole
@-
th'hotevz'deep
79
Buildthis little puddle-jumper Beginyour flight by buildingthe fuselage the bottom end of the laminatedfuselage { Follow the Bill of Materials to make for any flyrngenthusiast, and I ttre fuselagelaminates (A-D) but cut on the saw table and againstthe adjusted saw you'llseetheirspiritssoar.06 them /q" oversized in width and sawfence.In two cutting passes, the slot where shown on the FuselageSide lengXh.Iaminate the parts together, as give this toy to a child, and shown in the Fuselage Side pattem pattern. sh window holes pa,ge 107. watch an imaginationtake drawing on wide andTrrn this lami- tE,/ Drill the two through the lamination. nation to lYt" 9" long. flight.Eitherway,you'll be an O Drill a centered V+"hole, 3/t" deep, ft Bandsawthe top and bottom of the Lfor the propeller on one end of the L,/ fuselage to shape,as shown in the aviation hero. photo at right. Save the sawn-away fuselagelamination.
Q Appty the Fuselage Top and \.f FuselageSide patterns to the fuselage lamination with spray adhesive. To cut the 3/to" elevatorslot, set your tablesawblade lVz" high and stand piecesfor the next step. tape,reattachthe / Using double-faced f sawn-awaypiecesfrom the previous step, and saw the sides to shape by
Continued
80
WOOD magazine
October 2000
-1
W I N GP R O F I L E E T A I L D
t/e"round-over on front edges
t/a" hole drilled at 28"
s/0"slot 11/z" deep
Bevelends to matchunderside of wings.

t/e" dowgl 4t/2" long
Bevel ends so both dowelsfit in one hole.
tA" hole 70" deep
t/+" dowel 2tAe" long 1/q"hole 7e" deep
EXPLODED VIEW
t/a"dowgl2t /io" long
rh" hdle s/a"deep 14" dowel 3/e"long
See pages 107 and 108 for full-size patterns.
FIJSELAGE I AMINATF
l/zn {16" thu 11/z' 11/z' 11/z' 11/z' 9u 9o 9o 9o
D*
PONTOONS
%ao
* Cut parts labeled * oversized. tofinished with Trim size according to instructions. Materials M-maple, Key: W-walnut, C-cardinalwood. Supplies: dowel2' /e"dowel %" long, 2'long.
,/{
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C
2
1
ELEVATOR F Vta' 1Yr" 4' RUDDER
T$" 111/rc"SVso C
2' Bandsaw the fuselage side profile to shape carefully, and save the scraps.
PROPFI I FR
1/4o 3/q'
107s' C
Buying Guide Hardwood Allthepans slightly kit. cut oversized from thickness soecies intheBill the and listed of Materials. includes fuselage This the laminates glued ina block. includesof t/e" up Also 2' and t/a"dowels.no.W127, ppd. Kit $18.95 Quantity discounts available. Heritage Building Specialties, 205N.Cascade, Fergus MN 56537. Falls, 0r call800/524-41 order. 84to
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following the FuselageTop pattern. Remove the pieces still attachedwith double-faced tape. Rout %0" round-overs the side on Q \J edsesand alons the windows of the fuselag:e, where sh6wn on the Fuselage Side pattern.Do not round over the top edgesof the fuselage. (') From a 9"-long scrapof 2x4, build Y tn. drilling jig aciording to the drawingsat bottom. 1 n Remark the V4" pontoon-strut | \r, holes on both sidesof the fuselage.Placethe fuselage the drilling jig in with its top down and the side of the fuselage against shortsideof thejig's the V-cut, as shownin the photoat left.Drill /+" holes centeredon the %0" roundover. To drill the other pontoon-strut holes, rotate the fuselage end-for-end and place the other side of the fuselage against shortsideof thejig. the t/s" 1 I Use the samejig to drill the | | wing-strut holes. For both holes, position the bottom of the fuselage againstthe short side of the jig. Again, rotate the fuselage end-for-end after drilling the first hole. I f) Sand out all of the bandsaw I l marksmadeto this point. must be on the left sideof the blade,with the waste falling off the right side. Reattach wastewith doube-faced the tape. fi Returnthe bandsawtable to horizonu,l tal. Cut thepontoonbottomsto shape by following the sideprofiles. 4 Remove the attachedwaste pieces \,/ and patterns.Sand out the bandsaw marks on all surfaces.
3/to"cardinalwood, and sand cut { From I the elevator (F) and rudder (G) to shape usingthe full-size patterns. f) Cut the wing (H) accordingto the 1- Bjtt of Materials.Attach the wing to a t/qx4xI2" plywood carrier board with
planea lift by Give you_r makifigthese parts
Use the drilling jig to bore the angled pontoon-strut holes (shown here) and wing-strut holes.
of TAxIVaxTVz" walnut J Cut two pieces pontoons (E). Fold the I for the Right and Left Pontoonpatterns,found on page 108, and adherethem to the pontoonstock. /') Drill the five t/+" holes r/s" deep in E- the sides of each pontoon.Use the drilling jig to drill the angledstrut holes in the top of eachpontoon. 3/s"-long plugsof Vq"dowel Q Saw six and slue them into the three outside \,f holesof eachpontoon. first set A To cut eachpontoonto shape, 't your bandsaw table at an 8o angle. Cut along the patternlines on the tops of the pontoons. During the cut, the pontoons
Now,float over to the pontoons
DRILL JIG
CUTTING THE DRILLING JIG

STEP 1
11/2x31/2x9"
Fence
82
WOOD magazine
October 2000
double-facedtape and bevel the wing at 8o, as shown in the Beveling the Wing drawing. Rout %" round-oversalong the top and bottom of the front edge of the wing. Sandany saw or router-bit marks. Q Cut the propellerblank (I) according \,1 to the Bill of Materials.Fold and adhere the Propellerpatternto the blank. 1l Set your bandsawfor an 18" cut. -T Stand the propeller on edge and cut along the patternline starting at the hub
and cutting toward the propeller tip. The propeller must be on the lgft side of the blade, as shown in the photo below left. Repeatthis cut for each of the four propeller edgecuts, and savethe scrap. tapeto reattachthe fi Use double-faced t l scrap pieces. Return the bandsaw tableto a horizontalposition,laythepropeller on its side, and cut the face of the propeller to shape.Drill the %0" hole for the propeller axle, removethe paperpattern, and sandthe propeller smooth. A To make the propelleraxle, first drill hole, Vs"deep,into the end of a Lrl a V+" Vz"-lengthofVz"dowel. Cut a l" length of V+"dowel, and glue one end into the hole in the Vz"dowel. J After the glue dries, chuck the shaft I of this axle into your drill press. Sandthe Vz" dowel portion to a point, as shown on the PropellerAxle drawing. Q To make the various struts,cut four \,|pieces of Vq"dowel 27Aa" long, two piecesof Vq"dowel 213/ra" long, and four piecesof Ve"dowel 4Vz"long.
sideof the wing. (Seephotobelow.)Use instant glue to attachthe strutsto the undersides the wings. of Insert the propeller axle through the Q \,1propeller, and attach both to the plane by gluing the shaft of the axle into the Vc"hole on the front of the fuselage. / Final-sandthe project, and apply the -t finish of your choice. (We sprayed on threecoatsof aerosollacquer.)That's it, you're setto takeflight.i
Preparethe plane for final approachand landing

{ Using the ExplodedView drawingas I a guide, glue together the pontoons, fuselage, and the struts that connect them. Be sure the pldne sits level and parallel with the pontoons.Glue on the elevator,rudder, and wing. /') Sand the ends of the wing struts so 1- thev fit into the hole on each side of the fuselage.Sand the opposite ends of the wing struts so they match the under-
For safety'ssake,use a scrap of wood to helpguidethe propeller cuts.
Sand the ends of the wing struts at an angle so they match the wing underside.
t/z"dowel profile /z" long -. Sand rrt l+" hole t/e"deep Y2'
Side View
t/+" dowel
1"long
il
it fr
PROPELLER PATTERN
fl
PROPELLER A)(LE
Wdtienby Blll lcier with Erv Robotts Proic{de6lgn:Richard Rollf lllustlations:Roranne Le oine; Lome Johnaon Phorographs: tltt|dingbn Phologr+}ty
83
walklngstlcks fl
caruings olre-of-a-kind that have a humanside to them
f, bout 18 months ago, the Telfair A Museum of Art in Savannah, I lGeorgia, staged an exhibition featuring some exffaordinary, African American-inspired, carved walking sticks. We were so taken by the beauty of these folk-an canes that we decided to sharephotos of them, and a bit about ttreir with you. creators, Interestingly, someof the artistsrepresented here began their walking stick carving careers for humanitarian reasons.John Hall, of Clyo, Georgia, for example,recalls, "There were a number of old people around here who didn't have walking sticks, so I carved some for them. They wanted them, so I made them and gave them away." Similarly, Arthur Dilbert, who estimates that he's carved'over 2,000 piecesin his career,sayshe knows for sure some people need walking sticks. He offers something different from the ordinary canesthey can buy at the mall. Many of the carvings shown on these pages depict snakes, alligators, and other reptiles.And that's not surprising because they all were created by Savannah, Georgia-area carvers who grew up around thesecreatures. And believe it or not, all of the walking stick makers representedhere are self-taught. No exclusive aft school degreesfor thesemen. Their down-toearth approachto things also shows up in the tools they use. They rely mainly on pocket knives and chip-carving sets, chisels, broken glass scrapers, and a power tool or two thrown in for good measure. In caseyou're wondering what kinds of woodsthesecraftsmenuse,they're mostly locally available species. Favorites include cedar,oak, mahogany,and gum. And they're always on the lookout for stock that has bulges, bends, and other interestingfeaturesto work around. We hope you enjoy your tour of these exquisite American-crafted originals. They're a sight to behold. And if you're interested in learning more about walking sticks, we've included several books in the box at right to get you going. Editor's Note: Our thanks go to Harry Delorme, senior curatorof educationat the TelfairMuseumof Art in Savannah, for Georgia, providingus with the background information,photographs,and contactsfor this article.
Written by Larry Clayton and George Brandsberg Photographs: Gourtesy of Telfair Museum of Art; Erwin Gaspin
mq$tqrful
il
Canes from left: Willis Jones, Jr., Vernon Edwards, John tlall, Willis Jones, Sr., Arthur Dilbert; Arthur Dilbert (top right)
WOOD magazine
October 200
aboutthe artists
Vernon Edwards This talented craftsman, who passed away this past year, learnedabout the joys of woodworking from his father,a carpenter and craftsman.But it was an elderlyAfricanAmerican woodcaruer who Vernonwatched makingcanes with reptilian motifswho inspiredhim to this art form. Vernoncarvedoff and on for most of his life in Philadelphia, where he earnedhis living as a meat cutter and race car driver.His signatureworks are his walkingsticks resembling snakes.
Willis (Hakim) Jones, Jr. Born in 1953, this talented carver of canes first learned of the beauty of wooden itemsas a youngster while pl4ring with carved wooden ships his dad, Willis, Sr., had carved while he was at sea. For a short period of time, Willis builtfurniture a localdecorative for artist. But he eventually gravitated to cane making. Most of his work featuresgeometric designs-diamonds, spirals, checkerboards, and lengthsof chain. Willis Jones, Sr. Raisedwithin a block of the Savannah River,one of America'sgreat seaports, Willis' first exposure to woodworking and crafts was watching men making boats,fishnets,and caruedcanes.As a teen, he began makingand sellingtwig furniture. After a stint in the Army,Willis went to sea, travelingto ports in South America and elsewhere.lt was during this time that he worked alongsidea carver from Trinidad,and got serious about carving.
ArthurPeterDilbert
Born in 1928, Arthur got his start in woodworkingby makingsimpletoys, such as slingshots and wooden boats. A longshoremanby trade (now retired), begancarvingwalkhe ing sticks in the '60s. The Smithsonian Institution,the Atlanta History Center, and Savannah's TelfairMuseum of Art all featurethis craftsman's work.
John Hall This talented carver (born in 1954) began makingwalkingsticksjust for the fun of it when he was a teenager. And like many other talented woodworkers, John gave away most of his work to family,friends, and those in need. He's carved around 300 walking sticks, many of which tell stories,as well as numerous in-the-round humanand animal figures.John currentlylives in Clyo, Georgia, where he has a studio in an abandoned schoolbuilding.i
unYrv. wood ma ga zi n e. com
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arill
We test nine add-ondrill chucks perfect for woodworkers who find a keyless chuck just too slow.
\ Z ou don't have to be graying at the f temples to remember when a drill Iwas used only for boring holes, and its chuck key was lashed to ttt" power cord with a thick tourniquet of electrical tape. Most of today's cordlessdrilUdrivers lost their chuck keys long ago, thanks to the invention of the keyless chuck. But it's a new century and our need for speed is greater than ever, so we examined nine quick-change chucks that allow you to swap bits in half the time of traditional keylesschucks. All of the models in our test accept bits, drivers, and accessorieswith a standard Vt" grooved hextail, as shown on the drill bit left.lnside each connector, a ball-bearing (or bar, in the caseof DeWalt's Rapid Load) engages the groove to hold the bit fast. The bearing/bar releasesthe bit when you push or pull the connector's collar. (Throughout this article, we'll use the word pull to describethe action of moving the collar toward the drill body; push means to move the collar away from the drill.)
Hanson Lock'N Load DeWalt Rapid Load
The drill/sinl</drive alternative

Because of the huge variety ol lq" hextailed accessorieson the market tod"y, from nut drivers masonry to bits,you'llfind them handyall over the house.But if your drillingand drivingdutiesare almostexclusivelyperformed the woodshop, in consider a drilUsinUdrive Theseaccessories unit. bore and countersink pilot hole, quickly a conveftto drivehomea screw,thenjust as speedilyretumto bore-and-sink mode. The most common style you'll find-we call it a "flippe/'{ras a reversibleinsert with a drill bit and countersink one end on and a screwdrivertip on the other. This insertlocksintothe holderthat chucksinto yourdrill.(Someflippers, suchas Makitas Quad-Driver, bottomunit in photo at right, alsofit in a quickconnector.) To use a flipper,you set the drillingdepth by meansof a hexheadset screw, loadthe inseft,and boreand countersink your hole. Now removethe insert,flipit end for end, reinsert and drivethe screw.One source it, of frustrationwith flippers: Drillingdebris fallingfrom the bits'flutestendedto collect in the holder,preventing from properly us seatingthe insertuntilwe cleanedit out. The Jack Rabbit (800/zt4S-S969, or wwwjackrabbittool.com) takes a different approach. Instead of requiringa special holder,the drill bit and countersink mount to a sleeve that fits over a standard r/+" hextail-shank screwdriver bit. Slip the sleeveover the driver,bore and sink, then removethe sleevewith a quick tug of the sleeve'scollar,freeingthe driver
Jack Rabbit(top) parts,left to right drill bit, countersinldcollet, sleeve,driver bit. Flipperparts, left to right: drill biUcountersink,insert,driver bit, holder. bit to do itsjob. The four-fluted countersink acts as a collet on the drill bit, so you loosen the countersinldcollet set the to drilling depth. Changingfrom drill/sink drive with the to Jack Rabbitdefinitely takes less time than rotatinga flipper,and can be easily done with one hand.Butthe system'stighttolerancesoccasionally madeit difficult mate to the sleeveto the driver.
Jack be nimble. chuck be quick'

The manufacturersof these quick connectors tantalize you with the offer of one-handed changes. most of the bit But models required a fair amount of manual dexterity to release, remove, and replacethe bit with only one hand. Sevenof the nine connectors our test in releasethe bit when you pull a springloaded collar. You can do it with one hand, as shown at right, but pulling the collar one way with your pinky finger while pulling the bit the other way with your thumb and forefinger feels awkward. Of those sevenmodels,Makita's Ultralok and Stanley Joretech's STC1629 also will releaseon the push stroke.We liked thesebetterbecause the collar and bit are moving in the same direction regardlessof whether you're removing or inserting a bit. However, for true one-handed release, the collars on Bosch's Clic-Changeand Craftsman's Speed-Lok lock in the open position,which meansyou don't haveto fight spring tension to remove bits. Just
Makita UltraLok
push the collar until it snapsopen, then remove the bit. To insert a new bit, we liked the mechanisms in the Bosch Clic-Change, DeWalt Rapid Load, and Make It Snappy40011, where bits lock in place without any collar action. Merely push the hextail shank into the chuck until it clicks. Craftsman's Speed-Lok is next best, requiring only that you snap the collar back to its locked position after inserting the bit. The rest of the chucks require the samecollar motion to load a bit as to unloadit.
oGetting a grip.As you can see from the photos below and left, the collars of these quick-connectorscome in all colors, shapes, grip materials.Only you and can decide which one feels best in your hand, so we encourage you to do a hands-ontry before you buy. We gave a slight edge to the soft-grip collars, not only because their comof fort, but also because they tend to be of
Stanley Joretech Make lt Snappy 40011
A few more things to consider
One-handed removal on most conbit nectors, such as DeWalt's RapidLoad,is possible, but uncomfortable. The hand-stretching motionrequiredmaybe difficultfor those with limiteddexterity. a larger diameter.Knurling helps on the metallic collars, but we found the meager cross-hatching Hanson'sLock 'N on Load hard to hold onto with wet or sweatyhands. oBit retentian after release. We were surprisedto find that two of the quickconnectors-Bosch's Clic-Change and Insty-Bits-held the bit loosely in the chuck even after being released.When used in a drill press, this feature could savethe bit's cutting flutes from the ravages of a concrete shop floor. On the other hand, a connectorthat lets the bit drop free might be a plus if you need to replacea hot bit, so decidewhich is most important to you.
Continued
87
quick-changeart ists
oRunout and tolerances. Some of the units in our test have looser hextail-toconnectortolerances than others.But for handheld drilling, we simply couldn't make ill-mating bits an issue. Why? Because pressure you put on the bit the when you placeit on your mark tendsto tighten everything up. However, when mounted into a drill press (where you start the bit spinning before it entersthe workpiece),we found it difficult to hit our mark consistently. The Bosch ClicChangeand Insty-Bitsprovedthe bestin the test here. cDealing with broken bits. The drill bits that come with most quick connectors are permanently mounted in their hextails. So, when a bit breaks-which only seemsto happen when the hardware store is closed-what do you do? You could go back to the old-fashioned methodof using your drill's chuck. Or,
It you break a Make lt Snappy bit (top), you can loosen the collet and replace only the bat.With other manufacturers'single-piece bits, you toss it away and buy another.
if you havethe Make It Snappy40011, you simply free the bustedbit from its collet-typehextail (top, in photoabove), and replaceit with anotherbit that you alreadyhave on hand.
Now' you can rate our performance

You've heard what we have to say aboutthesequick-release chucks.Now, log onto the WOODMALL@ websiteat www.woodmall.com andrespond our to review. Are we right on the money, or way off the mark? Click on the "Interactive Tool Reviews" button and join the dialoguewith the manufacturers and other WOOD@ magazinereaders.
Writtenby Dave Gampbell Technical consultant: Raleigh Rubenking Photographs: Baldwin Photography
The pick of the quick

Hands down, we liked Bosch's ClicChange best. With its lock-open/insertto-close collar, bit retention when released, and low runout, we can't think of a goodreason buy anythingelse.But to whenit cametime to replacea brokenbit, we'd buy a set of Make It Snappy's, owing to their collet-stylehextails.al
A QUICKLOOK AT SPEEDY DRILLCHUCKS

IMANCE GS(s) //6
BLACI( DECKEB &

BOSCH GRAffSIIIAiI DEWALT
luickConneclH Clic-ChangeH cc 2300 Speed-Lok u

RapidLoad
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available in setswithbits.Collar betterknurled only is $ 1 0 Connector c N/A (8pc.) thanHanson collar.
INS PUSH R K
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one-hand Bit operation. runout for drillpress high 20 Easy (16 operation, finefor hand work. pc.) but drill push but 20 Simply bitto load, it'sawkward remove withonly to bits (1 pc.)onehand. provides plenty gripping 3 Wide, tapered collar of area. collar finishmaymake moredifficult operate it 30 Smooth to with (13 wetor swealy pc.) hands.
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system collet-style with 1 9 0nlyconnector hextails replace lo (4 pc.) broken bits. concave soft-grip 1 5 Comfortable collar releases on push pul bit or (7 pc.) stroke maximum for flexibilitv. preference. collar operation allows personal lor 20 Push/pull pc.) (15 Banel-shaped, soft-grip collar easy grasp. to
U U
STANLEY JORETECHsTc1629
IIOTES: 1. (F) Three sides flat (H) Hex 2. (lNS)Bitlocks withnocol
slrc 1
25la PIP
PIP
Formoreinformation. contacl: 4. (8) Ball bearing (R) Rod 6. (L) Lifetime warranty against factory defects Black Decker & 800/544-6986 DeWalt 800/433-9258 www.dewall.com Make Snappy lt (Poly-Tech Industries) 8001334-7472
u (pUSH) corrar rJflll?lliiro, I Move awal,

(fql_L)tvtovecollartowirddrill body G Rubber
t ou* Excerrent [3]8X"ilo

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, llitLJ,lilTli' (R)
- ;;;
(S-B Bosch Power Tools) 877t267-2499 8. Pricescurrentattimeofarticle'sproduction. www.boschtools.com
(N/A) connectorseparaterv not sord
(American Hanson Tool) Makita 612832-5000 800t462-5482 www.americantool.com www.makitatools.com
Instv-Bits orzTger-rOOO
(Stanley) Jore Corporation 888/809-5673 www.iorecorporation.com
88
WOOD magazine
October 2000
rffidr Pfqdqcts TIEP pmEdF#Krrffix

Fumble-free router-raising? Grank it up!
As useful as routertablesare,adjusting the cutting depth can be a royal nuiYou eitherhaveto climb undersance. neathand fidget with the plungemechanism, or pull the whole works outplate, router, and all-to change the depth.The folks at JessEmTools have come up with a nifty solution to the age-oldproblemwith the RourR-Lift. Insteadof using your router's depthsettingmechanism, Rout-R-Lift has the its own, operated a removablecrank by on top of the anodizedaluminumtable plate. Set your router to maximum cutting depth, mount it to the Rout-RLift's carrrage (which rides up and down on a pair of guide rods, shown inset), drop the plate in the table, and you're readyto roll. I was worried that the caniage and guide rods would deflect under the weight of a router, so I loaded up the heaviest router I know of-my 15pound Porter-Cable 7518-and checkedunder the table for deflection. I found only .005" underload. Adjustingcuttingheightwith the RoutR-Lift is not only more convenientthan under-the-table fumbling, it's also more Each full turn of the crank raisaccurate. es or lowers the cut by .050", with .005" increments marked around the crank's path. And, as an unexpectedbonus, I found I could change router bits from above the table by raising the router all the way up and inserting the collet wrenches through the throat opening. (However, this may not work with every router.) The instructions are a little skimpy when explaining how to center your router in the carriage (I used a pin Vz"-diameter and a Vz" tluoat insert) and how to precisely machine your tabletop to acceptthe plate. (A template would be helpful here.) And the plate has no provisionsfor leveling the plate in the tabletop,so I had to shim it with maskingtape. . -Tested Bob by McFarlin
Sawhorses sturdy ?s... well, a Clydesdale

For temporary work space in the shop, nothing beats a pair of sturdy sawhorses. But non-collapsiblehorsestake up a lot of storagearea,and I worry that knockdown horseswill get knocked down when I'm still using them. I had no suchworries when using Clyde and Dale's sawhorses,because each heart-shaped assemblyis madefrom a leg single piece of tempered aluminum tubing. It can't splay under duresslike most four-legged sawhorses.And, the usersupplied beam fits into a piece of rigid box-tubing welded to the leg assembly. Any 2x4 fits into the box-tubing, but I cut slots in both ends of a 2x6 instead. Besidesmaking a strongerhorse,it raised the working height from 32" to 34" and gaveme plenty of room to cut through the beam without fear of hitting hardware. At 3 poundsper leg assembly, easy it's to haul the legs and beamsfor two horses just about anywhere. And all four legs nest nicely together for compact wallhung storage.Despitetheir light weight, a pair of Clyde and Dale's sawhorsesare rated to hold 3,000 pounds.
-Tested byDave Hendercon
Rout-R-Lift
Performance Price Value
*****
$199
****
Tools Call JessEm at800/436-6799, orvisit www.iessem.com.
and Glyde Dale's Sawhorces

Performance Pdce
*****
for $90(legs twohorses)
****
Tolocate dealer, 800/390-5303 online a call orvisit at ww,clydeanddales.com.
WOOD magazine
October 2000
products perTorffl
tr'lat
@ v
quickly raise and lower the cutting height of the bit without the annoyance of constantlyregripping my router's small factory knob. However, when I dismountedmy router for handhelduse, it was a different story. Without the weight of the router to hold the depth setting, vibration causedthe crank to rotate down. So by the end of my plunge cut, I couldn't raisethe bit high enoughto clear the workpiece.For this reason, the Kwik-Crank performs best on a table-mountedrouter. Eagle America also sells a height knob that's identical to the KwikCrank, but with a knurled knob instead of a crank handle.I didn't find it to be any faster than my router's OEM knob, but the additional length of the tube savedmy knuckles.The knurled-knob
Banish knuckle-bash with Kwik-Grank

To me, changingthe cutting height of a table-mountedrouter is about as much fun as sticking my hand in the mouth of an ill-tempered dog: Both administer pain, and usually result in a bloody knuckle. But Eagle America's KwikCrank heighradjustment crank keeps my fingers clear of the router body while making height changespainless. Available for virtually every major brand of plunge router, this anodized aluminum tube threads onto the router's threadedrod, replacing the standardheighradjustment mechanism. (For the DeWalt 621 andPorter-Cable 7529,7538, and7539routers,the Kwik-Crank mounts to the depth-stop rod by meansof specialhardwarethat comeswith the crank.) Under table, the Kwik-Crank performed as advertised.It allowed me to
versionsellsfor $10 lessthan the Kwik-Crank.
Kwik-Grank
Performance
*****
plus ($35 shipping $30 shipping plus 7529, forDeWalt and 621 Porter-Cable 7538, 7539 and routers)
*****
America toll-free 888/872-7637, at ororder Eagle Call at online www.eagle-america.com,
Put the pinch on miter ioints

I've tried variousjigs, both shop-made and commercial,for clamping mitered joints, with limited success. But, when I noticed the Gross Stabil MCX Mitre Clamping Systemat a recent woodworking show, I decidedI had to try it out myself. The systemconsistsof a pair of twopiece clamps connectedby a steelrod. Loosely position a clamp over one workpiece (it'll work with stock up to 4" wide) so that the small piece of the clamp is slightly behind the large piece, as shown at right, and lock the rod with the knurled knob. At this point, it's okay for the clamp to be a little loose. Repeatwith the other clamp and workpiece. Now use a bar clamp (not included) on the 45o adapter pads, as shown, to pull the joint together.This action tightensthe clamps on the workpieces while simultaneouslypulling the joint together.The MCX Mitre Clamping Systemalso comeswith easy-toreplace22.5",30o, and 60o adapter pads for clamping other than rightanglejoints.
Mitre System Gross StabilMGX Glamping Performance
****
not clamp included) $26(bar
The systemputs all of its pressureon those 1"-wide clampingjaws, so I Formore information, Gross at call Stabil 800/671-0838. found it more difficult to use with
****
stock less than Vz"thick, including thicker stock with edge treatmentsthat reducedthe amount of flat clamping the surfaceto Vz"or less.And, because MCX Mitre Clamping Systemdoes nothing to ensureface alignment, the aligning the manufacturersuggests pieceswith biscuits or dowels, which I found to be valuable advice. -Tested Randy by Zmmerman
94
WOODmagazine October2000
DeWalt puts its spin on the circ saw

Worm-drivecircularsawsoffer superior torqueand side-tosidebalance overhelical-gear saws, theytendto be heavbut ier-and front-heavyat that-than their side-windingbrothers.Leaveit to the engineers DeWalt to comeup with the at DW378G: a 7t/+"circ saw with the power of a worm-drive and the lighterweightof a sidewinder. Like a right-angle grinder,the shaftof the DW378G's l5 amp.motor turnsperpendicular the bladearborby means to of spiral-bevel gearing. But, instead lying flat at full bladeof depthlike a worm-drivesaw,the motor anglesup and back at about a 45o angle.Thesemovesput the tool's centerof gravity just behind the centerof the blade,resultingin an overallbetter-balanced saw. Looking beyondits ratherunorthodoxappearance, found I somenicefeatures the DW378G.The blade-depth on indicator showsmarkingsnot for the depthof cut, but for the thicknessof stockyou're workingwith. In otherwords,to cut t/2" sheetgoods,I set the bladedepthto the "Vr" ply" mark, and the bladebottomedz/+" below the cast-aluminum baseshoejust enoughto clear the blade gullets.The indicatoralso denotes settings Vq" 3/8"5/8" Ix (zA"),and2X stock. for , , , If you useyour circ sawfor morethanbreaking down sheet goods, you'll like the dualbladeindicator, which showed me exactlywhereto put the sawto takethe line or leavethe line, in both 90' and 45o bevel-cuts.And I appreciated the DW378G'sretractable hanserthat let me hansit on anv tool convenientchunk of 2x stock, such DeWalt DW378G Framing Saw as a rafteror joist,
Pedormance Value
*****
60 $1
*****
withouta bunchof jury-rigging.

-Tested by DaveHenderson
Formore information, 800/433-9528, call orvisit www.dewalt.com.
Areyou o woodworker hobbyistor home improver? Hoveyou experienced precision and speedof fhe pneumoticnoiling ond stopling?Professionols use pneumaticfosteningin opplicotions from smoll bird feeder productionto cobinet building ond finish ond trim work. Now SENCO,'fhe brond of choiceof professionols, hos e new line of tools, fosfenersond occessories for youl Checkoul AccuSef brond iust finish noilers,brsd noilersond sloplers from the pros of SENCO.They're looded with power,greot feotures ond hsve o two yeor worronty - the besf in fhe business! find the retoil outlet neoresf To you, coll l-888-222-8144, or clickon fhe deoler locator
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WOOD magazine
October 2000
95
O200OSencoProducts, tnc.SlS5BroodwellRood,Cincinnoti,Ohio4S24l-1699 SotetyE.d.4fhooatywoyawrk!
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Tlvo ways to power a thte-tool

Few things in life equal the frustration of getting psyched-upto tackle a big project, only to find that you forgot to chargeyour cordlessdrill battery. By the you've time the batterygetsup to speed, gottensidetracked. only you could usei If that drill while the battery was charging.: One solution:Skil's Dual-Sourrcpo*., i l2-volt Replace exhausted the system. i plug i batterypack with a cordedadapter, the adapterinto an AC power inverter, i The and you're back in business. inverteri doublesas a charger,so you can still i the drill while you recharge pack. i I liked the flexibility of the power sysi tem, especiallyfor DIY and home-shop ! buti use.The drill will drive deck screws, it I wouldn't recommend for construc- i tion work. It's strictly a low-perfori mancetool by today's cordlessstani
combo
dards.However,I found the 10' cord gaveme lots of room to move without addingany weight. The Skil Dual-Sourcel2-volt kit also comeswith a flashlight and air gun. The light boastsa flat base,360o-rotatbeam.But the ing head,and adjustable air pump took nine minutesto inflate my truck tire to only 22 psi-and I had to hold the trigger the whole time. Still, it's handyto have aroundfor toppingoff and bicycle tires, air mattresses, such.l
-Tested byBobMcFarlini
combo (12OVXT-ALR kit SkilDual-Source

Performance Price Value
*** *****
drill kit; $99,12-volt $89,12-volt only
orvisit Tools tolffree 8771754-5999, at CallS-BPower online www.skiltools.com. at
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96
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lllustration: Jim Stevenson
I I
the Northwestts most abundant hardwood likes having wet feet

Tn the Pacific Northwest.almost I I w h e r e v e r y o u [ i n d w a t e ry o u ' l l d i s cover red alder. From southeastern Alaska into California. this cousin of the birch tree -growsbest where its roots get wet. and seldom more than 125 miles from the ocean. Trout fishermen know it well because the tree shadesthe deep, clear pools where the big fish lay. Alon_e the streamsand rivers, its roots steady banks againsterosion and keep the water runnin,eclear. And when salmon begin their run from the ocean, they do it amidst standsof red alder because nowhere does it -qrow more abundantly and to -greater size than in bo_egy areas near salt water. In those favored conditions. it can attain 100'heightswith diametersto 3'. Once consideredby lumbermen as a nuisance tree, red alder today rates as the most commercially important hardwood in the Pacific Northwest. Increasing2O-fold since the 1920s it because swiftly appearson burnt or cutover land, red alder's current standing volume represents60 percent of the r e g i o n ' sh a r d w o o di n v e n t o r y . Early loggers only cut red alder for firewood, for which it excels.(Its smoke gives salmon a distinct flavor, too). But 75 years ago or so, Northwest furniture manufacturersbegan giving the tree well-deserved attention. Because its evenly textured, moderately Redalderwas oncecut almostexclusively for firewood, todaystill serves givesalmon and to unique flavor with its smoke. hard, and heavy wood seasonswell and works easily, it rivaled more costly easternhardwoods for modestly priced furniture, cabinets,and turnings. Now, much red alder also becomes veneer for plywood cores as well as highgrade face. And logs find a ready market in Asia and Europe.i
Red Alder
I 1
ContinuedJ'rompage 107
PONTOONS
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108
WOOD magazine
October 2000
"All tools ny he shoulil this gooil!"

The Accu-MiteP is a professional mitergaugethat pertect makes angleieasily. action Shot-pin assures dead-on for accuracy commonangli:s. ptusa prec$e protractor scale Wesawblade asoperatingwithout for thedo notrecommendshown guard, is here. USPatent #5,0i8,486 in everything betvveen!
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W O O D m a g a z i n e S e p t e m b e r2 0 0 0
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, . i . " ' - . . ;, : r
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French EUfopgtS buird
0ldest
F*--1fl&08fi[tt
second longest
"Hole-$hoot8lt" fuwffi#ffim wffiffi#ffiffi& $urfaGes
TheallwoodMerle bridge spans a valley 100' above France's Maronne River.
last Opened December, the 189'-long Merle bridge over France's MaronneRiver ranksas the longest second woodenbridge on the European continent. Only an archedone in Austria has a greaterspan. Yet both bridgesfall woodenone,Pennsylvania's shortof the world's lengthiest 328'MacCallsFeny bridge. According to the FrenchTechnologyPressOffice, the Merle that becameobsolete due to a bridgereplaceda steelstructure width. For a new 12-metric-ton load limit and insufficient in wantedone designed harmony bridge,the local government with the surrounding countryside. Sodeteg, Frencharchithe with the bridge's design,decidedon tecturalfirm entrusted glue-laminated, Douglasfir for the structural French-grown was introducedto Englandand Europe material.(The species from the United States'Pacific Northwestin the 1800s.). proves Although Douglasfir, strippedof all its sapwood, the naturallydecayresistant, bridge's designeliminatedall possiblewater traps.The reinforcedconcretedeckingof the roadwayabovealsoprotectsthe wood. Due to its strong materialand carefulengineering, new bridge has a nothe weight-limit,ClassI rating.
its To celebrate 75th year of the business, Milwaukee Electric Tool Corporation conducted nationwide a contestfor the oldest search "Hole-Shooter"during 1999.The electricdrill so namedwas first producedin 1923by the A.H. Peterson Companyof Milwaukee, the forerunnerof MilwaukeeElectricTool. From more than 100 entrants, winnerwas the BarneyStraus Elm of He Grove,Wisconsin. turnedup an operational Hole-Shooter manufactured in 1923with the production number84. For his effort, was awarded cola Straus lectionof special 75th tools that anniversary includeda SuperSawzall, a MagnumHole-Shooter, a MilwaukeeTool leather jacket,a cordless PowerPlusdrill, and a Magnum l0" mitersaw.
ElmGrove, Wisconsin's Barney holds Straus the1923 Holedrill Shooter thatearned hima host in of prizes Milwaukee Electric Tool's "Search for theOldest HoleShooter" contest.
Helpfor storm-damaged
trees
help, wind-damagedcould trees survive than rather with Do chainsaws humming asevere where live? the start after storm you Maybe, a little those website toview and of them, the Arbor Foundation's (www.arborday,org) come For down. pointers saving insteadfelling visit National Day on trees No Request to towns maintenance tree department. computer? akitby itsStorm Recovery-Trees Kit. pass along your Media Then it download 100 Arbor Nebraska NE Phone writing National Day The Arbor Foundation, Ave., City, 68410. 4021474-5655.t1
lllustration: Jim Stevenson Bridge, courtesy of the French Technology Press Office; Milwaukee Electric Tool Corp. Photographs:
112
WOOD magazine
October 2000

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the edittrr's

a new series article gonna'like we thinkyou're

No. 17, 2000 0CTOBER . Vol. N0.7' lssue 127

renew your subscri-ption

and get five free project Plans!

Officer Executive President ChieJ and T. WILLIAM KERR,

jig t6 greatideas: ball-drilling

Improveyour tablesaw'scrosscutting capacitywith this well-engineered workshopaccessory.

Shaker-style blanket chest

jig 66 big-time box-joint

2000 lssue127 October

34 tips flom yourshopand ours 43 how to glue up a perfectpanel

68 how to cut largebox joints

the editor's angle talkingback wood-wide web business sideof woodworking:

18 insights from a woodturning master

WOOD ONLINEo hot off the internet

4g segmented bowlsfrom Sedona

97 wood anecdote:rcd alder

ll2 finishing touches

A safer grooving cut

Mobile mitersaw center update

Glock finish reuealed

Vqx 5Y2x 48" Birch

3/q 48 x 96" Birch plywood x

MORTISEDETAIL (right rearleg)

Thble dimensions don't add up

3/+x48 x 96" Birchplywood

The great metric debate, part two

Tiwo tips on wrestling with rust

The opens for a worldof options selling yourwoodworking

Expand new business horizons

Credit cards cost money

A crafts show that never closes

a simple design for a special task

be our guest expert

(Cocobolo, problems, sneezing Kingwood, African blackwood, etc.)

(Black, Claro, European)

nose, throat and

Prized many for uses, especially wellpieces. figured

walnut Looks black like wa with finegrain great and

Brazil Santos rosewood

More brown ofier rosewoods, fian wih a somewhat stipe. wider

(padauk) Shrbasbright witt Vermillion orange

white and spob, changes toa

Spechcular yellow dear dims to yellow orange yellow or brown.

How to make friends andinfluence rkers woodwo other

Get the \ on Internet where toolreviews a are street two-way

nectdrill accessories this in

Here's tipt a Learn anf earnin this webgroup

www. wo o dtnagazine. com/sc g7woodc lub/

Free tools?You'll them find here

WOOD magazine October2000

How to tell your pins from your tails

fl{}il".Fq F" t*:'ri.t i:*j

both sidesshow (seeCommon Corner Joints drawing, belorr).

Beyond the box: Let it slide

A couple more key uses

What is whitewood? Depot sell I owesandHome

What's the best uray to stop burn marks in cherrV?

i ing your blade with a dedicatedripping

if i bna" of highqualityandsee the ; burning stops.

Whichshould I adjust:the blade i or the fenceto be t/sz" further i

Urgently seeking a way to remove candle wax

fl{}il".Fq F" t:'ri.t i:j

ffi i'",'n lffi t;:': Fffi; ffd* il#ift **ffi