WINE&DINE

Latteria
40 Duxton Hill 6866 1988 | www.latteriamb.com Oh Cheese, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways. I love thee to the creamiest and smelliest and hardest. I love thee in a light breeze under the night sky surrounded by candlelight. And I especially love thee after a hard days work in a secluded little terrace on Duxton Hill. Latteria, the newest offering from Beppe De Vito (of Il Lido and Forlino fame), has moved into the Duxton Hill shophouse of failed Brit gastro pub The Jackson Plan. Its been given a sleek and tasteful makeover that has put an end to the stark green and white concrete walls of its previous incarnation. In their place are soft lighting and warm dcor, plus a large secluded outdoor patio. Heavenly burrata, sweet peppers peperonata ($30) arrives with just the right amount of resilience to its soft and creamy centre to make discerning taste buds surrender. The stringy bocconcini in carrrozza, arrabbiata ($20), constrained by a crusty shell, has a spicy sauce that tingles pleasantly on the tongue. Perfectly al dente linguine vongole and porcini ($30) and roasted whole seabream ($35) are very filling, yet moreish. The Sicilian cannoli ($10) and tipsy tiramisu cup ($15) are worth saving room for I failed miserably, but I was only there for the cheese! Kate Mallord

you appreciate artisanal YOULL LOVE IT IF: Youre a mouse orreasonably priced wine. mozzarellas and

MUST-TRY DISH:

YOULL HATE IT IF: Youre lactose intolerant.

214 April12

burrata, sweet peppers peperonata ($30).