The Angkor Trail

By Jay and Puru

Travel tales about the magnificent Angkor Wat. Compiled from the series, Backpacking across South East Asia originally hosted at www.shadowsgalore.com

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The Angkor Trail

Contents
Prologue ........................................................................................................................................................ 3 Chapter 1: Siem Reap.................................................................................................................................... 4 Chapter 2: Bantey Srei and Preah Khan ........................................................................................................ 5 Chapter 3: Preah Khan .................................................................................................................................. 8 Chapter 4: Angkor Thom ............................................................................................................................. 10 Prasat Bayon ........................................................................................................................................... 11 Baphuon: The Biggest Archeological Puzzle of Cambodia ...................................................................... 13 Terrace of the Leper King ........................................................................................................................ 15 Chapter 5: Ta Prohm ................................................................................................................................... 16 Chapter 6: Angkor Wat ............................................................................................................................... 21 Photographs ................................................................................................................................................ 26

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Prologue

Puru: It was my kid sisters birthday and I had to give her a gift. So I went to a book shop browsing for books to give her. It was there that I found this book called World Famous Unsolved Mysteries. I was generally curious about such things and wanted to read this book, but I had enough money for just one book. So what did I do? Well, I bought this book and gifted it to my sister, a great choice for a six year old! Many of the places mentioned in that book shaped the dreams of my formative years. One of them was Angkor Wat. It talked about the great Khmer civilization which flourished under great kings like Suryavarman and Jayavarman (see! Even after 18 years, I remember those names! ), built great cities and temples and then suddenly melted away into oblivion. No one was supposedly sure what caused the demise of these great people. Angkor Wat means the City temple, evidently so because it is the largest temple complex in the world. Built by King Suryavarman in the 12th century AD, this majestic structure was based at the former capital of the Khmer empire in the modern day Cambodia. The temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu and slowly got assimilated to the Teravada Buddhist style as the new religion spread in Cambodia. As told by a Portuguese monk-traveler Antnio da Madalena who visited the site in late 15th century it is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world. It has towers and decoration and all the refinements which the human genius can conceive of. Such is the glory of the monument! As I grew older, first the stories of Pol Pot and then Discovery documentaries and movies like Tomb Raider (yeah!) and The Killing Fields familiarized me with Cambodia. Even as they progressed towards gradual peace and stability after the elimination of Khmer Rouge, I somehow discounted a chance to see Angkor as it was deemed dangerous. It was only recently when BerT asked if we could make a trip to Angkor Wat did the fire rekindle again! So Cambodia is at peace again and they have some sort of decent infrastructure back. Will I be able to see the dream come true with my own eyes? www.shadowsgalore.com Page 3

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Chapter 1: Siem Reap

As I sat there reading Amitav Ghoshs River of Smoke, I could see lights of some distant city from the window of the aircraft. Suddenly it struck me that I was going over the same places, both in fiction and reality. My plane was flying over the same lands of South East Asia about which I was reading how they started as small fishing/ trading hamlets, and now I could see the glitter of mighty cities they had become. It was a queer feeling.

Figure 1: Siem Reap Airport

So after an uneventful night at the very unimpressive LCCT terminal of Kualalumpur Airport, we boarded the flight to Cambodia. The flight was short and we soon landed at the small and beautiful airport of Siem Reap, build like a traditional Khmer palace. Immigration was smooth and we were soon out of the place, in our cab for the hotel. Check in at the hotel and a quick freshening up and I was ready to strike one off my bucket list Angkor Wat.

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Chapter 2: Bantey Srei and Preah Khan

Figure 2: Mount Meru shaped temple of Bantey Srei

Jay: After Puru and BerT took the land route to Thailand, I had until the afternoon to explore the man-made wonders around. I planned to see Banteay Srei and Preah Khan, and squeeze in any other spots en route. En route to Banteay Srei, we checked out the state temple of Pre Rup. As with other un-maintained structures here, it appears to be a crumbling bunch of stones stocked together. Though the carvings are now faded with time, the structure in itself is interesting as it is a temple mountain. After the steepest flight of stairs I ever encountered in my short life, we were at the base of the main tower. The morning air and sun created a soothing ambiance and the view around was amazing. And yes, I was wondering how to get down.

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Figure 3: The temple at Bantey Srei

After a clumsy climb down the steep stairs, we were off to Banteay Srei. The name literally translates to Citadel of Beauty. It houses what can easily be one of the most intricate carvings around. The lime stone reliefs show scenes from Ramayana and Mahabharata and other ancient Vedic mythology. The stone structure reportedly emits a sort of glow when the sun is low.

Figure 4: Gargoyles carved in stone

It is best to enjoy the place when there are less people around as within 15 minutes of being there, the whole place was teeming with tourists.

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There are a few locals who will try to offer bargains on books and DVD. I bought a book after a kid chased me all around and wouldnt take no for an answer. Well, persistence paid off, for him at least.

Figure 5: A Photographer's delight

After an hour there, we went to the nearby cafe as we were famished. The place served egg omelets, with carrot stuffing which were rather delicious. After a quick meal, we planned to rush to Preah Khan but managed to squeeze time for Banteay Samre on the way. This place is fully restored but has relatively less visitors due its isolation from the tourist circuit. Built in the same concentric rectangular fashion as other bigger complexes, Banteay Samre is definitely worth a visit if you have the time.

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Chapter 3: Preah Khan

Figure 6: Stone and Wilderness in an eternal embrace

Jay: Our next destination was Preah Khan. The place used to be overrun with vegetation with the wilderness swallowing up the temples but recent ongoing restorations have checked natures onslaught over the area. There are still a few evidences of vegetation over the rocks. A complex layout of buildings and passageways, statues of Garuda, the headless guards, the alien carvings, Preah Khan is a place which will appeal to the adventurer within you .

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Figure 7: Preah Khan entrance

The place is built similar to Ta Prohm but on a smaller scale and has the same Tomb-Raider aura without the crowds. The grounds are quite extensive and you will get the true feeling of being an explorer as you clamber over rocks and down passageways that suddenly end. Banteay Srei and Preah Khan are the two places which deserve a visit if you plan a Angkor trip.

Mini Angkor

There was still some time left and we visited the mini Angkor created by a local sculptor. I guess there are more than one such models and I evidently picked the wrong guy to visit as the models were ill maintained and definitely did not justify the US$3 fee.

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Chapter 4: Angkor Thom

Puru: Built in around 680 AD on the sides of another capital called Yashodharapura, and expanded by the great Khmer King Jayavarman II, Angkor Thom was the capital of the Khmer Empire. Covering an area of 10 square kilometer, the city is said to have housed anywhere between 80,000 to 150,000 people at the height of its glory. The center of the city was known as Prasat Bayon, a richly decorated temple of the Khmers, today most famous for the massive faces inscribed on its walls and towers depicting perhaps Bodhisatva, Shiva or the Khmer Kings.

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Figure 8: Way to Angkor Thom

It was around 10 AM that we reached the Southern Gate of Angkor Thom. I cant describe the feelings it brought to my heart. Finally after a wait for nearly 2 decades, I was at Angkor. I could see a gate with the familiar face of the Khmer Kings. A bridge over a moat led the way to the Gate flanked by two serpents who acted like the railings of the bridge with statues of Devas holding them in one row and Asuras in another row, symbolic of Samudra Manthan.

Prasat Bayon

Figure 9: Prasat Bayon

Our first stop in Angkor Thom was Prasat Bayon. Located at the exact center of the ancient city, this magnificent temple is a combination of many galleries and terraces with a central terrace and tower. This was my first full scale encounter with the traditional Khmer architecture and
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needless to say, I was swept away by its magnitude and intricacy. The galleries of the monument were an art gallery in themselves with beautiful bass reliefs depicting scenes from everyday life to mythologies to wars. The outer galleries were dedicated to the Khmer culture, scenes from court and everyday life. Then there were depictions of the wars, majestic armies locked in pitched battles. The inner galleries were more devoted to Gods and mythologies, with Brahma, Vishnu, Siva and other gods and goddesses depicted in different avatars. There were narrow corridors, staircases leading to antiquity and the overall feel was of deep intrigue. Now I could understand why Lara Croft chose this place for her adventures.

Figure 10: 200 faces of Lokeshwara

Done with the galleries, we proceeded towards the most famous facet of Bayon, the Upper Terrace with 200 faces of Lokeswara. The Upper Terrace lies nearly on the top of the Inner gallery with a central tower going high. But what makes this part really famous is not the Central tower but 37 face towers surrounding it, each tower showcasing three or four serenely smiling faces of either Bodhisatva, Vishnu or Jayavarman himself. In the words of Maurice Glaize, wherever you go, these faces follow you and dominate with their presence. This was exactly I felt standing there. For some strange reasons, I just did not want to leave the place, but time constraints forced me to.

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Baphuon: The Biggest Archeological Puzzle of Cambodia

Figure 11: Baphuon

Baphuon: The Biggest Archeological Puzzle of Cambodia

Our next stop was Baphuon. Built like a mountain shaped pyramid, Baphuon is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. This temple is famous for another reason; it was known as the biggest puzzle of Cambodia. Its restoration started around 100 years back. But in the 1950s, the French conservators decided that the only way to save it was to dismantle it fully and then restore it. So its 300,000 blocks were dismantled and then numbered carefully. However war started, ravaging the whole country, and the documents related to restoration were destroyed. It was followed by the Khmer Rouge rule and a Civil Strife for decades in which Baphuon remained as a pile of stones often plundered by Tomb raiders for artifacts. Finally when peace prevailed, restoration started in 1995. It was then that the task to piece together this mammoth 3D puzzle fell on the restorers. Finally after 15 years of Herculean effort, they were able to bring the temple together in 2011. There are some 10000 pieces left over, but not much can be done about them and they are lying around.

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Figure 12: View from the top of Baphuon

Baphuon, built like a mountain, was a steep climb. In the hot sun it required some effort to reach the top. Finally only I and Jayant went till the top and we did not regret it. From the top, we could see almost all of Angkor Thom, jungles and ruins in a beautiful landscape. At the top, there were 2 door frames, opening to nowhere; I wonder what they were meant for.

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Terrace of the Leper King

Figure 13: Terrace of the Leper King

It was around mid afternoon and we were quite tired and hungry. So the last two stops before we stopped for a lunch were the Terrace of the Elephant and the terrace of the Leper King. The Terrace of the Elephants was a raised platform supported by statues of elephants from where the king would see his armies in a parade. When I stood there, all I could see was a parade of Tuk-Tuks (Cambodian Three Wheeler). How times change! Anyway, the Terrace of the Leper king is supposed to be built by a King who was suffering from leprosy. It a U-shaped terrace with beautiful stone carvings. Here we took a break, for we had to fill our stomachs. Once we were done with our lunch of noodles and rice, we were ready for our next destination - the Angkor Wat, and before that, something special.

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Chapter 5: Ta Prohm

Figure 14: Ta Prohm

If Angkor Wat, the Bayon and other temples are testimony to the genius of the ancient Khmers, Ta Prohm reminds us equally of the awesome fecundity and power of the jungle. Lonely Planet

Puru: At first I was planning to club Ta Prohm with Angkor Wat but this place is so unique and beautiful in itself that it seemed totally unfair to not to give this place a dedicated tribute.

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So after a sumptuous lunch, we drove through the forest and narrow lanes and came to the gates of Ta Prohm. The outside was quite crowded with tourists, vendors and construction workers working on the restoration of the main gate. Had to walk a little on a dusty track, there were vendors selling traditional musical instruments and a group of musicians, apparently landmine victims, playing soothing Cambodian music. At the end of this path, we came across a small wooden bridge leading to the temple. I was astonished to see a sign board in Hindi warning of Danger! It was then that we realized that it were our own ASI folks who were working to restore the monument.

Figure 15: A glimpse into the past

Built in 1181 AD by Jayavarman VII, Ta Prohm was a huge temple complex home to as many as 12,500 people at a time. The expansion of the temple continued way till the 13th century after which it the decline started with the decline of the Khmer civilization. With centuries, the temple got swallowed up by the jungle and remained forgotten till it was discovered again in the 19th century.

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Figure 16: Swallowed by the forest

Ironically, the real beauty of Ta Prohm lies in its state of ruin. In this place, the skill of man and the might of the nature have combined together in a unique fusion of an art form which at the plainest can be called surreal. Here, one can see both sides of the nature- as the creator and the destroyer. Giant roots of fig and banyan trees coil around intricately carved stones like the death like grip of a serpent. The ruins and the jungle together present a unique haunted charm which is difficult to be crafted in words. My photographs seem so inadequate in expressing those feelings. I could only wonder how the early explorers would have reacted when they stumbled upon this jewel from antiquity. You can see some great Angkor and Ta Prohm photographs by National Geographic here.

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Figure 17: Ta Prohm in the light of the day

So, in sheer amazement, we wandered through the ruins. It was such mazelike that very soon I and Jayant got separated from the other two and wandered aimlessly through dark corridors, piles of stones and still standing monuments with huge trees coming out of them. There were ancient doors gripped by the roots of a banyan, and the famous Tomb Raider tree where Lara Croft gets sucked in the ground. For a brief period when even Jayant had strayed away, I was totally alone there and felt as if I had no sense of direction or time. I know am getting too verbose, but the place did it to me.

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Figure 18: Ruins and jungle in a complex synergy

Finding it really hard to explain what Ta Prohm really is, I stop here and leave it up to you whether you want to explore the place yourself. Reach there in the morning when the temple is said to be at its mysterious best, take a torch with you and if possible, a compass. Do let me know how it felt like when you come back.

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Chapter 6: Angkor Wat

Figure 19: Angkor Wat as I will remember it forever...

(Angkor Wat) is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world. It has towers and decoration and all the refinements which the human genius can conceive of. Antnio da Madalena

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Puru: After a wonderful experience at Ta Prohm, it was time to finish the day with the monument for which we all were here, Angkor Wat. It was around 3:00 PM and even in January, Cambodia was hot as hell. Our driver told us that it will take us at least two hours after which he would take us to the various evening delights of Siem Reap.

Figure 20: The Moat and the bridge leading to Angkor Wat

Like the Southern gate, here too was a moat in front of the monument with a bridge over it guarded by the Serpent. After a fair amount of walking, we reached the main gate shaped like Mount Meru. The gate was intricately carved with beautiful Apsaras adorning the walls. Many
of those who came to monument were busy taking photographs at the gate itself.

Figure 21: Angkor Wat as seen from the entrance

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The name - Angkor Wat comes from Sanskrit word Nagar meaning City and Khmer form of the Pali word Vatthu which means temple, the word thus meaning Temple City. It is the biggest temple complex in the world dedicated to Vishnu and then Buddha. It is also the best preserved the most famous among the temples of Angkor and the state symbol of Cambodia.

Figure 22: Mount Meru

As per the traditional Khmer architecture, Angkor Wat is designed to represent Mount Meru, with a Moat around it depicting the mythical sea where the Samudra manthan was done. The temple complex is huge with the outer wall running more than 3 km long. At the center of the temple is a huge Quincunx of towers with the center one being the tallest. The overall grandeur and intricacy of sculpture of this temple complex has amazed travelers and archeologists for centuries. This monument was huge even by the Angkor standards. The Central Structure was enclosed inside three concentric rectangular (Oxymoron?) galleries, each inner gallery higher than the other. The walls were the abode of Devas and Apsaras carved magnificently in stone, very much different from the stone carvings I have seen back in India but reminiscent of the Ajanta Paintings. Other than the Celestials, there were scenes from the battles of Ramayana and Mahabharata; we could actually identify vast armies of monkeys annihilating the Asuras.

Figure 23: Apsara

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Figure 24: The Tower at the Upper terrace

Once we entered inside, we were on a terrace surrounded by Gallery on all sides. In the middle of this terrace was the Upper Terrace going up to a considerable height. This was the peak of this mountain-temple. Everything was carved, from the walls to the ceiling and even the floor at some places, its difficult to imagine what a Superhuman effort it must have taken. Read somewhere that in the modern times, with all the jazzy equipment, it would have taken 300 years to build this monument ! For more information, check out online universities to find history classes that can teach you more about Khmer civilization and how Angkor Wat was constructed.

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Figure 25: Angkor from the top

Finally it was time to go up the Upper Terrace. There was a long queue for it and they were allowing very few people at a time. Climbing the wooden flight of stairs, we went up. This terrace was like a square gallery with Buddha statues and flanked by four mountains like towers on the corners. The central part was an open space. Beautifully carved again, the walls and ceiling were adorned with beautiful carvings from Hindu mythology. From the windows, we could see through the country side into the jungles and other ruins. Later when we came out, we went to this place from where you can get an amazing view of Angkor Wat and its reflection in a lake. A midst the click of cameras, I could not help but get overwhelmed by how beautiful it looked. Lit golden by the setting sun, the magnificent monument stood shone majestically in its waters. This image will continue to linger in my memory forever, the pinnacle of my dream of seeing Angkor Wat with my own eyes someday

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Photographs
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Banteay Srei, Banteay Samre and Pre Rup Preah Khan Angkor Wat Ta Prohm Angkor Thom

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Thank You

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