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Guidelines
Fabric Store and Cutting Room Management

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

Title

Page No.

General Introduction Section A - Fabric Store Process Flow Chart Fabric Store Activity Chart

3 4

Section B - Cutting Room Process Flow Chart Process Description Cutting Room Activity Chart

Material Movement Material Storage Annexure

11 12 15

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General Introduction
The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of materials into the necessary pattern shapes. These are then joined together by means of seams to create three-dimensional garments. Where large quantities of a garment style must be cut, a lay is created which consists of many plies of fabric spread one above the other. From this, all the garment pieces for all the sizes that have been planned for that lay are cut. The pattern shapes for these garments may be drawn on a paper marker placed on top of the lay, or information as to their shape and position may be held within a computer, to be plotted similarly on a paper marker or used to drive an automatic cutter.

Why cutting room management is so important?

Cutting room is an extremely important section in the garment manufacturing process which has a major impact on the profitability of the business. Following are the few reasons which describe the importance of the efficient management of the cutting room in garment manufacturing process: Cutting room being the feeding point to the factory has massive impact on all the further processes of garment manufacturing i.e. sewing, finishing etc. Efficient and well planned operations in cutting room ensures smooth flow of work to all further processes and can definitely lift up the utilization of the available resources. Cutting room controls the utilization of fabric which is the biggest contributor to the cost of any garment. Even small wastage or saving of the fabric will have a huge affect on the margins of the orders. Cutting being the first operation of garment manufacturing lays the foundation of quality of the garment to be made. Any imperfection in cutting process can result in non-conformance of the quality standards of all further processes.

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FABRIC STORE

1. Process Flow Chart:

Purchase **Purchase Order / Indent Knitter

Approved swatch

Greige Fabric Receipt Register register Greige Fabric Rolls received Quarantine Area

Merchandiser Approval Fabric Inspection

Greige Fabric Insp. Report Pass Pass Racks

Test Report

Greige Fabric Register Pass Lab Test Processors

Pass

Fabric weight/ GSM Confirmation Approved Lab Dip Reject / Held For Decision Reject Bulk Lot submission Bulk lot Approval card

Reject Racks

Knitting Reconciliation Register

Test Report

Merchandiser Approval

Quarantine Fabric Pass Racks Approved Inspection Approved Lab Test GSM Report Not Approved Not Approved Not Approved Reject Racks Approved GSM Confirmation Lot cards Area

Y In house

Approval

Fabric Insp. Report

Processed Fabric receipt Register

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2) Fabric Storage The fabric as received from the processing is kept in the quarantine area before storing in heavy duty fabric storage racks. It is the responsibility of fabric stores in-charge to store the fabric safely & correctly. The fabric stores in charge records every day fabric stock in Fabric Stock Register. 3) Fabric Inspection Before issuing the fabric to any further process proper inspection is carried out for the received lot of fabric to judge whether the quality of the received fabric is as per the approved standards or not. The inspection should be done as explained in the audit report. Only approved quality fabric is issued to the next process. Along with the physical quality inspection certain lab test like GSM, colour fastness, shrinkage etc are also carried out on the fabric. Fabric is classified as pass only if the test result conforms to the set standards. 4) Fabric Issue Fabric after inspection is kept in different racks as per the result of the inspection carried out. Based on the results of the inspection the fabric is classified under 3 different categories, which are: Pass Reject On hold Fabric under these 3 categories should be kept in different racks to avoid any mixing and all racks should have proper information of the fabric being stored in them for easy access. The fabric department issues the fabric to the cutting department against Fabric Requisition Slip and makes the entry in Fabric Issue Register. C. Fabric Stores Activity Chart

Activity Check Receipts

Resources Stores In -Charge -

Output Quality measurement of the received material Meet the requirement of the various departments

Issue Stocks

Stores In -Charge

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CUTTING ROOM

a. CUTTING PROCESS FLOW CHART

Cutting Plan Pilot Run Pilot Run Approval Approval Cutting Worksheet Fabric Fabric Request Request Fabric Fabric Receipt Receipt

Fabric Details

Pattern Copy

Lay order Report Marker Marker Receipt Receipt

Cut order and Lay Lay Planning

Request Request Marker Marker

Planning

Spreading End Bits Register

Parts Replacement Parts Replacement

Cuts Indent Lay Reconciliation Report Issuance of Cuts Issuance of Cuts/ Excess Fabric Cutting Issue Register O.K.

Not O.K. Checking Checking Cutting Audit Report Bundling Bundling Cutting Cut

Report

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b. PROCESS DESCRIPTION 1) Cutting Planning: Cutting Room Planning is very important and should be done for every order. Good planning helps in better utilization of available resources and improving cutting room efficiencies. The cutting plan should be made well in advance to allocate resources and check on fabric availability & flow for the planned cutting. Various things that should be kept in mind while making cutting plan are:i) Requirements of sewing room ii) Availability & flow of raw-material i.e. fabric iii) Available Manpower iv) Constraints of work-place 2) Cutting Work order: The planning department issues a cutting work order to the cutting department for commencing cutting for any particular order. The work order states the size wise quantity to be cut in that style and the fabric required for the total quantity mentioned in the work order. The cutting In-charge makes a daily cutting plan for the work order quantity and does the resource allocation. The work order also gives an estimate of the fabric that should be taken from the fabric store. 3) Fabric Receipt: The cutting room in charge requests fabric from the fabric store based on the daily cutting plan made by the cutting room executive. The fabric is requested using Fabric Requisition Slip format. The cutting room helper gets the fabric from the stores & transfers it to cutting room with the help of fabric movement trolley. The fabric received is stored in the fabric racks within the cutting-room. 4) Fabric Relaxation The fabric received in the roll form should be relaxed for at least 12 hours under standard conditions before spreading. This is done in order to take out any tension in the fabric imparted during finishing or winding so as to avoid any distortion while spreading or cutting.

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5) Marker Request The Cutting Executive requests the marker from the CAD department on a format called CAD Marker Requisition Slip. The details of the fabric (e.g. width) received from fabric store needs to be provided to the CAD room for marker so that the provided marker could be adjusted as per the received fabric to minimise wastage. 6) Spreading & Marking Before Spreading, the lay plan should be prepared & a lay order slip is generated by the cutting executive. The lay order slip provides all relevant details to the spreader for the lay i.e. style, fabric width, no. of plies, marker way, consumption for that lay etc. The spreader has to follow the lay-order slip for considerations during spreading & if she founds any deviations in the actual, it should be reported to the cutting executive. After the spreading is done, the lay should be checked by the QC and a format called Cutting Room Inspection Report is generated. After the lay is cleared by the QC, it goes for next operation i.e. marking. The marking could be done manually by patterns or paper marker could be fixed on top ply to make it ready for manual cutting. 7) Cutting The ready to cut lay is moved onto the area allocated for cutting within the spreading & cutting table. Air-flotation table is used for easy movement of lays. The cutter cuts the lay with the straight-knife along the marker lines. For any small parts or sharp turns, where precision cant be achieved by straight knife, the parts can be taken to band knife after block-cutting. For some styles (e.g. engineered stripes) where lay cutting is not possible due to matching of stripes, single piece cutting is done with the help of scissors. 8) Numbering & Bundling Once the lay is cut the cut parts are numbered, all parts that makes one complete garments are given same number so as to avoid any mismatching of shade. After numbering the pieces are bundled into a group of certain pieces. The size of the bundle is decided by the cutting-room in charge, in discussion with the sewing floor in charge. 9) Quality Audit All bundles need to be audited for quality before issuing to the sewing lines. Quality audit on the bundled garments is done by the cutting-room auditor who checks the bundles for bundle ticket descriptions, correct sequence of ply numbers, presence of all parts etc. as

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mentioned in the format. The second audit checks for the pieces w.r.t. the shade matching, notch positioning, etc. These audits are conducted following the AQL chart specifications & a format called Cutting Section Bundle Audit is filled. 10) Issue to the Sewing Line The cut bundles are issued to the sewing line on request from sewing line supervisor. Detail for issued pieces is maintained in the Cutting Issue Register. The cutting issue register records the size wise issue to each line for a particular order. Along with the bundles the cutting department also gives to the sewing line a format called Production Issue Slip containing details of the bundles issued like bundle no, size, no of pieces etc.

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C. Cutting Activity Chart:

Activity Request Fabric Request Marker

Resources Cutting Executive/Cutting In Charge Cutting Executive

Output Availability of fabric as per the cutting plan Availability of marker according to the usable width of the fabric. Achieve optimum utilisation of cutting resources. Preparation for cutting To meet the cutting plan Prepare the cuts for issuance Check the bundles for conformity To meet the cutting plan. To meet the cutting plan.

Lay Planning Spreading Cutting Bundling/ Ticketing Random Audit Issue Pilot Run Issue Bulk cut

Cutting Executive Spreaders Cutting In-charge Bundling Helper Checkers/QC Cutting In charge Cutting In charge

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MATERIAL MOVEMENT
Fabric store and cutting room involves lot of material movement between different operations. The material i.e. fabric is in the form of heavy rolls therefore specially designed material movement equipments are required for saving time and manpower. Following is the list of certain material movement that take place in Fabric store & Cutting room with suggested mode of movement. Item Description From To Material Movement Equipment Fabric Trolley Fabric Trolley Fabric Trolley Fabric Trolley Waste sack Trolley Bakers Trolley Bakers Trolley Bakers Trolley Bakers Trolley Bakers Trolley

Fabric Fabric Fabric Fabric Cutting Waste Cut Parts Cut Parts Cut Parts Bundles Audited Bundles

Fabric Unloading Fabric Movement Fabric Movement (Pass/Rejected) Fabric Movement Packed in sacks Cut parts movement Cut parts movement Cut parts movement Cut parts movement Cut parts movement

Vehicle Quarantine Area Inspection Machine Racks Cutting table CNC table CNC table Numbering Table Bundling Table Audit Table

Quarantine Area Inspection Machine Racks Spreading Table Waste storage room Fusing Machine Numbering Table Bundling Table Audit Table Sewing Lines

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MATERIAL STORAGE
Proper housekeeping is an important compliance feature and improves the overall working environment of the company as well. Work in progress (WIP) generated at different stages of operations should be identified along with the quantity of the material to be stored. The storage medium should be selected as per the nature of the material, process and also the subsequent operations to have ease of working and to reduce the wastages that occur due to improper storage.

Material Fabric Cut Parts Cut Parts End Bits Pattern

Description Fabric rolls Bundled parts for audit Bundled parts for issuing sewing Balance fabric from rolls Patterns for an style

Storage Type Heavy duty multi level metal racks Multi level bakers trolley to Multi level bakers trolley Multi level metal racks Pattern trolley

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Fabric StoreSpace Requirement for Fabric Stores The fabric store area should be calculated based on the assumption that how many days of fabric inventory company wants to keep and the kind of storage arrangements available for the fabric store. Lets understand this with the help of an example: Fabric WIP in days = 7 Total fabric weight = 50,000 kg Average fabric roll weight = 25 kg No. of rolls for 7 days inventory = 50,000 / 25 = 2,000 rolls No. of rolls that comes in one rack = 75 No. of racks required = 2,000 / 75 = 27 racks Area is required for one rack = 42 sq ft Area required for 27 racks = 42 X 27 = 1,134 sq ft Now, other areas like aisle space, cabin area, space for inspection machines etc. should be added into this to get the final area of the fabric store. As a thumb rule the calculated area should be multiplied by 2.5 to get the total fabric store area. Total fabric store area = 1,134 X 2.5 = 2,835 sq ft The layout of the fabric store should be made after the calculating the number of racks or any other kind of proposed storage required. While designing the layout pf the fabric store enough aisle space between two racks so as to facilitate easy movement of material movement equipment and manpower. Space should be allocated for quarantine area for keeping the fabric immediately after receiving.

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Cutting RoomSpace Requirement for Cutting Room: The cutting room should have enough space to house all necessary equipments and manpower, to add to it the cutting room should have sufficient space for storing fabric rolls of running lays and cut bundles and WIP of at least one day of feeding for the sewing section. As a thumb rule, the cutting room area should be equivalent to 40% of the sewing section area. For e.g. If sewing section area is 10,000 sq ft, then Cutting room area = 10,000 X 40% = 4,000 sq ft It should be noted that this area is exclusive of the fabric storage area. The layout of the cutting room should be made so as to have forward flow of work and to avoid backward movement of the material between different operations. There should be provision for parking the trolleys and storage racks for storing the end bits and WIP.

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ANNEXURE

Piece Quality Control Inspection Report

Fabric Supplier Date of Inspection Style no/ Priority No. Require GSM Roll Colour Number Ordered Total rolls received Total yards Insp Total penalty points Points per 100 square meter Reject Shipment Accept Shipment Inspected by

Shade Penalty points Length Width GSM Actual On roll Actual Ordered actual diff Hole Soil Fabric yards defect Minimum Maximum

Total points

Point Rejection Comments per 100 yards

Points per 100 sq meters

Total Points X GSM Weight

100

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Fabric Checking Sticker

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Than No. Weight

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Than No. Weight

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

Fabric Color Content Date of checking GSM Weight Than No.

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Cut order Plan / Lay order / Reconciliation sheet

S Order 1000 1030 1000 1030 1000 1030 1000 1030 1400 1442 0 Total(Incl Extra) Order Order Order Total(Incl Extra) Order Total(Incl Extra) Order Total(Incl Extra) Total(Incl Extra) Total(Incl Extra) M L XL XXL

P.O#

2321

Size

Style#

qw

Order Quantity

5400

Color

Extra

3%

Color

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Size
S 2 4 7 8 9 11 144 23 18 20 25 20 20 1200 3600 50 Single Jersey 1 20 0.04 0.03 7 7 7 9 7 6 7

Total (Incl Extra)

5562

Color

Color

Color

Color

Color

Cut #

Marker #

Color

Planned Total Fabric Quantit no. of plies Type Quantity y Than # Than weight Consumption Marker Consumption Actual Number of plies

Actual End bit

1 1 0.5 1 0.75 1 1

Shortage (negative End bit sign sticker implies # excess)

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 -36 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Bundle #
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Quantity
50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50 50

2321 - 1

2 Black

17
M XXL 1200 3600 1200 Single Jersey XXL 1200 3600 Single Jersey

Black

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Black

1. The Cut #, Marker #, colors, size, Quantity, Total quantity, average consumption, Marker consumption, No. of Plies, Bundle # and details of Bundles are filled by the Cutting incharge (cut

order plan for a particular P.O.#) as soon as he receives the cutting order from MH

2 The Than #, Than weight is to be filled by the Layer man after getting the Fabric

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3. The Actual no. of plies, Actual End bits, shortage Extra are eneterd after the spreading is over by the spreader

Re-Cutting Requisition Slip Buyer : Style : Part Name Fabric : Colour : Line : Date : Defect Cause Due to Fabric Cutting

S.No

S.No

Qty

Size

Defect

Sewing

Time In Requested By

Time out Approved By Received By

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End Bits Details Date Cut No.

Than No.

Color

weight

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Fabric Utilisation Report (Weight)

Style No. Colour Da te

P. No.

S. No.

Cut No.

Marker W ay

Estimated Consumption

No. of Plies

No.of Garments

End Bit W eight

Shortage / Excess

Total W eight

Balance after Single Ply Cutting

Balance after Recut

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

Total No. of garments cut

% Shortage / Excess

Total Shortage / Excess Total W eight

% End Bits

Total End Bit W eight Total W eight

Av erage Actual Consumption

Total W eight Total no. of garments

Variation from Approv ed Consumption = =

Actual Consumption - Approv ed Consumption

Prepared by

Cutting Incharge

Factory Manager

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TABLE PLANNING BOARD

TABLE 1
Spreading Team Spreading Team 4 Spreading Team 5 3 Spreading 6 Cutting Team 1 Cutting team 2 Cutting team 3 Spreading Team 1 Spreading Team 2 Spreading Team 3 Spreading Team 4 Spreading Team 5 Spreading 6 Cutting Team 1

TIME

TABLE 2
Cutting team 2 Cutting team 3

Spreading Team 1 Spreading Team 2

9:00 - 9:30

9:30 - 10:00

10:00 - 10:30

10:30 - 11:00

11:00 - 11:30

11:30 - 12:00

12:00 - 12:30

12:30 - 1:00

1:30 - 2:00

2:00 - 2:30

2:30 - 3:00

3:00 - 3:30

3:30 - 4:00

4:00 - 4:30

4:30 - 5:00

5:00 - 5:30

Spreading Planned :

_____ Pieces

Spreading Actual :

____ Pieces

PRODUCTION BOARD
PRODUCTION :
Y'DAY'S DHU

NO. OF OPERATORS Y'DAY'S EFFICIENCY Table 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

LINE

STYLE #

COLOUR

Y'DAY'S PRODN.

9.00-11.00 11.00-1.00 1.30-3.30

3.30-5.30

TOTAL

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

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Spreading Losses Data Collection

Date

Table

Lay No.

No. of Plies

lay length

Marker length

Lay width

Marker width

Overlap length

No. of overlaps

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Spreading Losses Calculation

Date

Lay No.

No. of Plies 0.00

No. of meters in lay

lay length

Marker length Actual Standard -2.00 0.00 2 0.00

End loss

Excess (CM/Ply)

Meters per Lay (End Loss)

Lay width

Marker width Actual Standard -2.00 #DIV/0! Actual (Average) Standard -15.24 15.24 2.00 0.00

width loss

Excess (CM/Ply)

Meters per lay

Overlap length

Excess (Av) CM

No. of overlaps 0.00 #DIV/0! #DIV/0!

Total o/l loss (m/lay)

Total excess losses

% of meters in lay

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End Bits Details Than No. / Roll No. Color Non Cuttable Cuttable After first layering After second layering

Date

Cut No.

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Table Utilization Report

Table Number Readings Planned Start Time Time End Time Actual Time Time Lost inRoll / Than Loading Time LostSplicing / Defective fabric removing Time Lost(any other) Time Un-utilized spent time within a when lay lay is waiting for cutting Time Spent when table is idle

Date

Cut No.

Plies

SAM / Ply

Total

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Fabric Utilisation Report (Weight)

Style No. Colour Date

P. No.

S. No.

Cut No.

Marker Way

Estimated Consumption

No. of Plies

No.of Garments

End Bit Weight

Shortage / Excess

Total Weight

Balance after Single Ply Cutting

Balance after Recut

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

Total No. of garments cut

% Shortage / Excess

Total Shortage / Excess Total Weight =

% End Bits

Total End Bit Weight Total Weight

Average Actual Consumption

Total Weight Total no. of garments

Variation from Approved Consumption

= =

Actual Consumption - Approved Consumption

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Cut Audit Report

PNo. DHU: AQL: AQL: AQL: _______ Sample Size: _______ Sample Size: Parts ___________________ Pieces _______ Sample Size: Bundles Inspe cte d by: Accept/ Re ject

Date :

Style:

Cut No:

Size :

No.of Bundles:

No.of Parts:

No.of Pieces:

Bundle Inspection
Part(s) No. of Piece s Remarks

S. No.

Bundle

Bundle

No.

Ticke t

SUM

Piece Inspection
Ply No. 0/1, per gmt 0/1, per part 0/1, per part (all parts) (based on AQL) (based on AQL) Sha de Notch Position* Othe rs Matching (for matching parts) 0/1, per gmt Re ma rks

S. No.

Bundle

No.

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

19

20

21

22

SUM

DHU = (a + b + c + d)/(no. of pieces checked x parts/piece) =

In case of second inspection, please mention here :

QA Manager

Cutting Incharge

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