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moscow
August - September 2010

All aboard!
All you need to know about
taking the Russian train
Moscow's parklife
Moscow's best parks,
gardens, pools and beaches
Top 5 shashliks

August - September 2010 N°10

moscow.inyourpocket.com
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Contents 3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents
Foreword
A word from our Publisher 4

News
What’s new in the city 5

Basics 6

Russian trains 10

Language
Cyrillic Alphabet tips 13

Culture & Events

Discover Moscow’s cultural scene 14

Exhibitions 20

Hotels 22

Restaurants
From traditional Russian to Asian fusion 26 Nightlife 36
Moscow never sleeps...

Sightseeing 42

See St. Petersburg 52

Shopping 53

Business  55

Expat 57
All you need to know about the expat scene

Health & Lifestyle 59

Interview 61
Peter Richter

Maps  62 - 65

Street register  66

moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

4 Foreword news 5

A lot of people have been asking me recently how we are doing

now that I live in Moscow and a large part of my colleagues live
in St. Petersburg. Especially given that we have been publishing
Moscow In Your Pocket for over a year now and are starting to
be taken quite seriously in the capital. Well, I can tell you, the
answer is; we are doing very well! If you ask me, Russia is on the
up and In Your Pocket is growing in popularity accordingly. We are
growing so much in fact that I am now in the middle of a hunt for
new colleagues. Anybody who is serious about doing business
in Russia knows how frustrating it can be to look for new staff. I
don’t know what it is with Russians and work. We’ve just come
out of a serious economic crisis, but if I judge by the ‘serious’
approach to applying for a job here, it seems Russians haven’t
really been affected much. For example I had this guy reacting
to our vacancy, name of his CV: ‘Krutoi’ (translation: ‘awesome’),
salary request 60.000$/month. Heck, if I the position paid that
much I’d keep the job for myself! Then there is this thing about
cancelling interviews. The best reason I've had so far is the girl
who doesn’t want to meet with me because her parents told
her that foreigners cheat you and that our company is probably
a scam. I have never felt so offended - investing over ten years
of my life to this country to be called a scammer? Excuse me!
And then there are the standard excuses: I cannot come to see
you because my mother is ill, but I promise I will return your call,
although my personal favourite is - the ‘semenie obstayatyel-
stvo’ or ‘family crisis’. Which really means; I’m not interested or
actually I want to go out to my dacha. If you start a company here
and are looking for staff in August, don’t bother. By September
most people have been on holiday and have had enough of the
dacha so it might be worthwhile trying again then. Good luck!
Ps: I must add here that I have a great dedicated team working
through deadlines, no matter whether it is +38 or -25. Thanks
to them this little book is really very good - enjoy!
Bonnie van der Velde, Publisher In Your Pocket, Russia
Cover story
Europe In Your Pocket
In Your Pocket is once again set to break new ground. Fre-
sh from bringing you the most up-to-date city guides around,
we have recently gone Dutch with a move into the Nether-
lands. The first issue of ’s-Hertogenbosch (Den Bosch)
In Your Pocket is currently in the latter stages of prepara-
tion, and will appear soon. To be amongst the first to find
out when the ’s-Hertogenbosch guide is published, and
Moscow City Day
With 2010 being Russia’s Year of the Teacher, this year’s
863rd celebration of the founding of the city will place special
emphasis on youth and education. The birthday weekend runs
04 to 05 September and the city promises to host more than
3,500 different events, which are expected to be attended by
more than two million people. As that’s quite a lot for us to write
about, we will try to give you only the highlights. Down on Red
Square, undoubtedly the biggest event is the Moscow Military
Tattoo which opens on September 04 and runs every night until
September 09, (see page 16 for more details). Meanwhile in the
surrounding squares of Pushkinskaya, Tverskaya, Teatralnaya
and Lubyanka stages will be erected and shows by local musi-
cians, dancers and ‘respected artists of the Soviet Union’ will be
performed. The city’s Boulevard Ring will become ‘the boulevard
of art’ aimed specifically at youngsters who want to express
their creativity and love of the city in crayons and paint, while
the Hermitage gardens will host a book fair for adults and kids.
Various events will also be taking place in Gorky park, the park
at VDNKh (VVTs), Kolomenskoe, Tsaritsino and Park Pobedy
will host its first festival of classical and jazz music (see pages
49/50 for details on how to get there). And it just wouldn’t be a
real birthday party without the fireworks blasting off at 22:00
each night from Red Square and the hills of Park Pobedy.
Metro News
New Stations opened. The expansion of Moscow’s massive
metro system continues as two new stations, Dostoevskaya
and Marina Roscha on the light green line, opened this sum-
mer. The Dostoevskaya station’s theme is obvious and if
you are passing through the murals on the station platforms
of shady looking Raskolnikov types in trench coats, make an
interesting (if not slightly disconcerting) passing interest. The
second station, Marina Roshcha, is themed around the ver-
dant dacha filled area that was once here in the last century,
and is filled with pretty mosaics of the Russian countryside.
Interchange at Belorusskaya closed. The interchange at
Belorusskaya metro station between the dark green and
circle lines will be closed all the way up until December 01, as
the escalators between the stations are replaced.
Moscow’s hottest station revealed. And finally the hot-
test stations of Moscow’s metro have been revealed. When
it’s 30 degrees on the street and you are trapped down on
the platforms, it may feel like everywhere under the ground
is a furnace, but according to recent testing the hottest sta-
tions in Moscow is Chekovskaya with an average of 30 de-
grees. Close behind
on the sizzling scale
are Kievskaya, Ulitsa
1905 Goda, Rech-
noi vokzal and Tre-
tyakovskaya where
temperatures of 28
- 29 degrees were
recorded. The study
failed to mention the
temperature inside
the metro wagons,
which we suspect is probably even higher. So high in fact
that we’d probably rather not know.

to keep up with all In Your Pocket news and events, beco-

Yuri Dolgoruki or Yuri Long-arms, is reputed
to be the founder of Moscow and this statue,
a masterpiece of socialist realism on Tver-
skaya ploschad appeared in 1954. Photo by
Dreamstime.
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Moscow In Your Pocket
founded and published by
OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your
Pocket.
Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul.
Tsvetochnaya 25A,
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tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65,
fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64,
russia.inyourpocket.com
Publisher Bonnie van der Velde,
bonnie@inyourpocket.com
General director Tanya Skvortsova,
tanya@inyourpocket.com
Accountant glavbuh@inyourpocket.com
© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket
Published 6 times per year with supplements,
N 10, 01-08-2010, 30.000 copies
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02367-K since 25.05.08.
www.discusmedia.spb.ru
Роскартография ФГУП МАГП, 2005
me a fan of In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ Yom Kippur in Moscow
inyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyour-
pocket). We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like Ramadan in Moscow September is not only an important month in the Muslim calen-
dar, Russia’s Jewish population will also be celebrating this month
to start up an IYP. Send us an email requesting more info: the On the night of Tuesday August 11 the month long Muslim fast- with Yom Kippur or the Day of Atonement starting at sunset on
address is publisher@inyourpocket.com. ing holiday of Ramadan begins. It is estimated that Moscow has Friday September 17. If you are looking to break the fast with
between one and two million Muslims, most of whom hail from some good kosher food we recommend you head to the cafe of
Tatarstan, Central Asia the Synagogue on ulitsa Bolshaya Bronnaya or try the delightful
Editorial department Editor’s note and the Russian Cau- Chagall restaurant in the Jewish Cultural Centre on Bolshaya
Editor Louise Whitworth The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides casus. For one month Nikitskaya ul. For contact details of your local synagogue or
editor.mos@inyourpocket.com is independent from paid-for advertising. Moscow Muslims will Jewish centre see page 58.
Layout & Design Anton Lyapunov We welcome all readers‘ comments and only eat in the twilight
design.mos@inyourpocket.com
Research Elena Bobrova
suggestions. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of the information at
hours until the holiday
reaches its final cul-
In Your Pocket Online
research.mos@inyourpocket.com the time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors. mination at the feast Russia In Your Pocket is not only a comprehensive series of
Commercial department Москва В Твоем Кармане of Eid al-fatir or Uraza printed guides to Russia’s favourite cities Moscow and St.
Sales Managers Учредитель и издатель: Bayram as it is known Petersburg, we also run our own massive website cover-
Mikhail Bazhenov ООО Красная Шапка in Russia, which this year falls on Thursday September 09. ing thousands and thousands of venues in Moscow, St.
Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург
mikhail.bazhenov@inyourpocket.com
Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А.
The main hub of prayers and religious activity in Moscow is Petersburg and further afield. Via russia.inyourpocket.
+7 905 733-44-01
тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 the Grand Mosque just off Prospekt Mira. Due to the mosque’s com you can download free pdf and iphone versions of
To order issues факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 small size and the high number of local Muslim’s wanting to our guides as well as offer us your feedback and live com-
Lyubov Kvasnina Главный редактор: mark the occasion, the atmosphere can get claustrophobic ments on places that you’ve been to and liked, didn’t like
sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Бонни ван дер Велде and in previous years local churches and halls have had to or just couldn’t find. Our facebook group Russia In Your
Отпечатано в типографии
stand in to help the flow of worshippers. Although largely Tatar, Pocket is the place to find out about upcoming events
Copyright notice «Uniprint», Эстония, г. Таллинн,
Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Ярвевана теэ, 9Ф the Grand Mosque accepts Muslims from across the Muslim taking place near you, share tips, experiences and useful
Shapka 2003-2010. Maps copyright Свидетельство о регистрации world as does the larger Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya in links and of course to get talking about Russia. And not
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of средства массовой информации Park Pobedy. Some embassies such as the Malaysian em- to forget ‘Russian reality’ our editor writes a blog that will
this publication may be reproduced in any Пи №2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано bassy also usually organise their own celebrations. For those give you the background insight into the ups and downs of
form, except brief extracts for the purpose of Северо-Западным региональным
review, without written permission from the управлением комитета РФ
looking to buy Halal products the Grand Mosque has its own being constantly on the road finding all the useful informa-
publisher and copyright owner. The brand supermarket, while the local markets Dorogomilovsky and tion that makes In Your Pocket the ‘cheeky, well-written
по печати.
name In Your Pocket is used under license Цена свободная. Danilovsky have many Muslim sellers. See page 58 for Mosque series of guidebooks’(New York Times) that it is. Find her
from UAB In Your Pocket. Тираж 30 000 экз. № 9. 01.08.2010 addresses or head to the site www.muslim.ru for news from at louiseinyourpocket.blogspot.com
the Muslim community.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

6 Basics
24 hours
Moscow never sleeps! Whether you want books or booze, sushi,
a pint of milk, to see a dentist or get your house cleaned, the
capital is working 24-7.
Alcohol
While Russia is still the land of vodka, it’s also the country
which loves beer - at any time of the day or night or on the way
to work. Russians drink more beer (pivo) than anything else.
Be ready to see drunk people anytime, anywhere. Vodka is
cheap with literally hundreds of brands to choose from. Russky
Standart Platinum, Diplomat and Zhuravly are pretty good.
Locally brewed cheap staples for Moscovites are Sibirskaya
Korona and Zolotaya Bochka. Sovietskoe Shampanskoe
(Soviet Champagne) is the national party drink.
Communism
Lenin’s mummified corpse in its Red Square Mausoleum (D-4)
is one of the city’s prominent Communist reminders, not to
mention the almighty Moscow Metro. Stalin’s red stars, atop
the Kremlin towers, are still in place too. The elaborate kitsch
chaos of the All Russia Exhibition Centre erected in the 1930s
remains a testament to the Communist dream factory as does
practically every other hulking square construction all over
town. Most statues of Lenin, Marx, Engels and co. are still in
place; Marx is still on Teatralnaya pl., Lenin on Oktyabrskaya
pl. and everywhere you look you’ll find hammers and sickles.
Muzeon sculture park (B/C-6/7), near the New Tretyakov have
become a repository of Communist era statues.
Crossing the road
Unless you want to play chicken with your life, you need to
learn this word ! It means perekhod in Russian
or underpass in English. When you see this sign above a
tunnel, know that you can head safely under and cross under
the street. Miss one and you can end up walking for another
200 or 300 metres. The busiest interchanges have around
five different exits, entrances to different metro station and
also quite a few shops.
Customs
Most important is the completion of the MIGRATION CARD
(that paper that you had to fill in when you arrived at passport
control). If you don’t carry drugs, billions of euros or weapons
with you, you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and
Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure.
This applies even if your cabin crew gives you this form. For
most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to
the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel. If you are carrying
valuables, or are the argumentative type, then it is wise to
fill in the customs declaration and have it stamped. In this
instance you need to get in the RED (to declare) queue. In
general, the rules are: CASH: You can bring in up to US$3,000
in cash without declaring it (considering we are in Russia this
rule may vary). ART: Anything resembling art should be cleared
in advance of departure at the Rosokhrankultura (Russian
Cultural Security Department), Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel.
(+7) 495 660 77 30. It’s illegal to take out icons or paintings
which are more than 100 years old. PRINTED MATERIAL: Once
again, if it’s more than 100 years old, it’s not going anywhere.
If it was published between 1903 and 1953, you will need
an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura or an
accredited shop. Take the sales receipt of the item you are
getting checked with you, along with your passport or the
passport of the person who will take it out of the country.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Basics 7
Making a Call Leaving Moscow
Calling Internationally By Plane. If you are leaving by plane the most foolproof
Рекалма
The phone card is a a convenient way to make way of reaching the airport is by train on the so-called
international calls at affordable costs. Various cards are aeroexpress. Going to Sheremyetevo airport trains
available from phone shops such as Evroset (you can leave from Belorusskaya station, going to Vnukovo
also use their card for internet access) and from some airport they leave from metro Kievskaya station and
internet cafes and post offices. Dial the local access going to Domodedevo airport, aeroexpress trains leave
number, then the card number (login), then the pin (parol) from Paveletskaya station, all of which are connected to
and then the number (without the OO) you wish to call.To the metro circle line.
phone home from a Moscow landline, you need to dial 8
then wait a little (not necessary if you have a digital line) Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at the aeroexpress
then dial 10, followed by the country code, city code and ticket counters (kassa) in the train terminals and cost
actual telephone number. 350Rbl for each adult. Note that the timetable often
Calling within Moscow has intervals of an hour, and it takes 35-40 minutes
to get to the airports. The only drawback is there are
The Moscow city code is 495 but some parts of Moscow
for example Kolomenskoye just outside the Circle Line, no toilets, and trains do not operate throughout the Health & Safety
night. They have a hotline 8 800 700 33 77 where
have the code 499. To dial numbers with a 495 code, if
you are in the 495 code yourself, simply dial the number. you can listen to the timetable free of charge or you
Like all of today’s large cities, Moscow is no stranger to
terrorism. Many will recall the Dubrovka Theatre siege of
Hey presto, connection! If you‘re in the 495 area, but can also check departures on their website www. 2002, as well the recent Moscow metro bombing. Terrorism
need to call to another code it is the same as calling aeroexpress.ru. If you plan to reach the airport by aside, Moscow’s criminal underbelly no doubt sees tourists
within Russia, see below. taxi, give yourself at least three hours to get their as and business men as small fry. Cross roads using the
Calling within Russia Moscow traffic can be completely unpredictable. And perekhod where possible and don’t run across multi lane
For calling within Russia or even within Moscow where if you want to try to get there by public transport, our boulevards! Other dangers include dodgy electrical fittings,
there are different codes, simply dial 8, then wait for a long advice would be…don’t’ bother. Just get your wallet out temperamental gas stoves, uncovered manholes and
tone (not necessary if you have a digitial line), then the city and save yourself a long and painful journey by paying absinthe. Moscow’s water board guarantees that the water
code, then the number. Depending on which telephone for the aeroexpress train! is drinkable when it leaves the processing plants, but it can’t
guarantee it will reach your apartment in the same condition,
company provides the telephone, you have to enter an
so play it safe and stick to bottled water.
additional prefix after the 8. So calling St. Petersburg for
example, you have to dial 8, then 53 or 55 depending on Floors
your telephone service provider. Confusing, right? In Russia the ground floor doesn’t exist as such. When you’re Internet Access
on the ground floor, you’re really on the first floor. And so on. Most cafes, restaurants and bars in Moscow have free wifi
Disabled travellers access or offer wifi for a small sum. Go inside buy a drink
With its old cobbled streets, steep inclines and the maze of Foreigner prices and surf the web, as if you are hoping to ‘steal’ the wifi
from outside you will probably require a ‘parol’ (password)
perekhods (crossings) under the street, Moscow is rather The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days that you need to ask for. Many shops also sell 'Yota' plug
unfriendly for the disabled. While the metro is impressive, it is of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and in internet devices which will give you wifi everywhere. You
practically impossible for wheelchair users to access it. Things museums, foreigners are required to pay twice to 6 times can also head to a branch of popular 24hr internet cafe
are changing slowly. As the modernisation of Moscow’s hotels, more than Russians. These institutions say that Russian Cafemax if you need a computer.
museums and restaurants continues, more and more venues tickets are subsidised whereas foreigners paying the ‘real Cafemax D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 25/1, MNovokuznets-
now have wheelchair access and disabled facilities. Faster price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you kaya, www.cafemax.ru, tel. (+7) 495 646 74 12
trains plying the route between Moscow and St.Petersburg work or study in Russia, you are theoretically entitled to
have special wagons for the disabled. Look for the U sign
in this magazine. For travellers with visual and/or hearing
the local price.
Mobile Phones
difficulties: Russian drivers are no gentlemen, so be careful!
Habits You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. If
Climate Russians are superstitious - in the Ploshchad Revolutsy
metro, take note of all the shiny pistols and dog noses on
you call with your mobile to a Russian number, you‘ll need to
put in all the numbers, so for Moscow +7 495 followed by the
the statues which have all been polished smooth by Russians number. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM
Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head rubbing them to bring good luck. Russians are also keen on card. They range in price starting from 200Rbl up to 400Rbl
away to their country homes to escape the heat of the cleanliness. When entering a Russian household, remember depending on the package. You’ll need to bring your passport
city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself to take your shoes off as soon as you get inside. Usually to the store to register your new sim card and to put your old
some time in the shade of a tree in the park. September your host will offer you slippers (tapochki). Chivalry is alive number onto a new sim card if you lose your phone. Note that
is usually a lovely warm and sunny month. As Russia and thriving which, for some can take some getting used to. outside Moscow your Russian sim will also be on roaming.
has been experiencing consistent heatwaves expect
September to continue into an Indian summer.
Telephone codes
Russian city codes International country codes
Archangelsk 8182/818 Novgorod 8162/81622 Austria 43 Denmark 45 Italy 39 Russia 7
Irkutsk 3952 Novosibirsk 3832 Belgium 32 Estonia 372 Japan 81 Spain 34
Kazan 8432 Petrozavodsk 8142 Canada/USA 1 Finland 358 Latvia 371 Sweden 46
Moscow 495/499 Pskov 8112/81122 China 86 France 33 Lithuania 370 Turkey 90
Murmansk 8152/81522 St.Petersburg 812 Cuba 53 Germany 49 Netherlands 31 Ukraine 380
Leningrad 813 Vladivostok 4232 Czech Rep. 420 India 91 Norway 47 UK 44
Oblast
The above Russian city codes should be prefixed with Codes should be prefixed with 8-10 if dialling inside Russia. After dialing
8 if dialling from inside Russia 8, wait for the second tone - this is only if you do NOT have a digital line.
moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
8 Basics
Money
The national currency is the ruble (Rbl). Banknotes come in
denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and the 5,000
note. Ruble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbls. There are 100
kopeks to a ruble and kopek coins come in 1, 5, 10 and 50.
Officially, it’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Keep a hold of
small notes as shop keepers often have no change at all. If you
want to pay for that bread, it is up to you to find some change
yourself. Not all establishments take credit cards, even if they
have signs that say they will. Always have cash as back up.
American Express travellers’ cheques are exchangeable at
most banks, for a commission free exchange, you can go to
the Bank of Moscow, Ul. Tverskaya 8, tel. (+7) 495 925 80 00.
Most Russian banks also offer Western Union money transfers
(see www.westernunion.ru for a complete list). You may want
to warn your bank before arriving in Russia, in case they see
your withdrawals as unauthorised transactions or robbery and
cancel your cards. The maximum withdrawal amount is between
7,000 - 15,000Rbl.
Post
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need
to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider
a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around
three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also
buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them
into any dark blue post box around the city.
Central Telegraph Office C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7, MTver-
skaya. Despite the name, does all postal related chores includ-
ing sending parcels, faxes, and email.QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.
Main Post Office E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 26, MChistiye
Prudy. From here, you can post letters and postcards, buy
stamps or make a telephone call.QOpen 24hrs.
DHL C-3, Central Telegraph Office, Ul. Tverskaya 7,
MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 10 00, www.dhl.ru.
There are over 12 offices around Moscow including this DHL
agency on Tverskaya.
Westpost Dmitrovskoye shosse 27, 1034-1035,
MTimuryazevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 59 42, www.
westpost.ru.QOpen Mon - Fri 09:00 - 20:00.
Queuing
Russians have rules for queing? It may seem improbable
when confronted with the Russian populace enmasse inside
the metro but outside public transport Russians adhere to
queuing rules strictly. The modus operandi involves fronting
up to the dispersed group and asking ‘Kto pasledny?’ (Who’s
last? To which someone will (hopefully) answer ‘Ya’ (meaning
me). Now that you’ve identified the person in front of you, all
you need to do is wait for your turn. Unwritten rules include
telling the person behind you that you are just nipping out
for a cigarette and will be back in five minutes.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Be on guard!
Pickpocket places Red Square, Ul. Tverskaya, metro
rush hour and busy downtown streets are popular places
for pick-pockets. A tried and tested trick is to block the
entrances/exits of public transport and metro entrances
(particularly during rush hour which for Moscow is almost
all the time). It may be wiser to leave valuables in your
hotel’s safe and carry only enough cash for the day.
Don’t be too conspicuous. Think twice about leaving
mobile phones in bags or coats when checking them at
museums, theatres, airport or train stations.
Police! The police here generally look for any excuse
to fine you, so photocopy your passport and visa. Make
sure that you always carry a few photocopies; if the police
stop you (they check Russians all the time too) then show
them the photocopy rather than the original.
What to do if you are robbed Cancel your credit cards
as soon as possible. Carry copies of your credit cards
with international customer service numbers somewhere
other than your wallet. Your embassy can help you if your
passport has been stolen see moscow.inyourpocket.
com for addresses.
More safety... Avoid attracting unwanted attention by
not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the
streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African,
Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution,
particularly at night.
01 - fire 02 - police (militsiya) 03 - ambulance
937 9911 - Moscow Rescue Service (operators speak Rus-
sian, but will connect you with an English speaking operator)
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 72 hours of
your arrival in Russia. If you’re staying at a hotel, the hotel
is legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival.
Many tourist agencies can also register you. If you don’t get
registered on time, you can expect serious problems when
leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while
officials interrogate you. For more information see russia.
inyourpocket.com.
or = ladies
or = gentleman
Toilets
Difficult to find a public toilet that’s free? If the portable
lavatory doesn’t thrill you, try McDonald’s or random
hotels, cafes and restaurants. Utter the words ‘Gdye
tualyet?’ (‘Where is the toilet?’) while flashing a friendly
smile and most will let you use their facilities. For some
reason many Russians prefer to stand and squat on public
toilet seats, so look carefully at what you are about to sit
on. Often public toilets do not have tualyetny bumaga
(toilet paper) in the stalls, so if in doubt ask for some
from the attendant.
Travel Agencies
Ost-West Kontaktservice E-3 Ul. Myasnitskaya,
22/2/5, office 216 MLubyanka tel. 495 628 79 76,
www.ostwest.com
moscow.inyourpocket.com
History
1147 Prince Yuri Dolgoruky founds Moscow.
1237 Genghis Khan’s grandson and his Mongolian army
burn Moscow down. For the next 230 years Russian princi-
palities pay tribute to the Tatars ‘Golden Horde’.
1325 Moscow becomes the seat of the Russian Orthodox
Church and in 1453 the Third Rome.
1475-79 Ivan III (the Great) throws off Tatar rule, and
Moscow becomes the capital of a unified Russian state.
1533 Three year old Ivan IV (the Terrible) becomes Grand
Duke and proclaims himself tsar (emperor) in 1547.
1598 After the death of Ivan the Terrible a power struggle
begins. Boris Godunov (a Romanov) becomes tsar, but dies
in 1605 and in 1613 the Poles are ousted from Moscow
ending the Years of Troubles.
1613 – 1672 The growing metropolis is rocked by numer-
ous peasant uprisings against the power of the bureaucratic
Boyars. Peter the Great is born and in 1682 becomes tsar
1712 Peter the Great makes St. Petersburg the new capital
of Russia.
1812 French emperor Napoleon Bonaparte enters Moscow
to find it abandoned; erupting fires reduce 2/3 of the city
to ashes during the 39 day occupation.
1813 Architects start to rebuild the ruined city. Moscow
changes from a feudal town into a bourgeois city and enters
the 'Golden Age' of music, art and ideas.
1918 Following the Revolution the Bolsheviks move the seat
of government to Moscow in 1922 it becomes the capital.
1935 The first Metro line is opened.
1941 The nazis invade Russia forcing the Soviets to enter
World War II. They advance to within a few hundred miles of
Moscow but the city stands firm. By the end of the war on
May 09 1945 almost 30 million Soviets have died.
1950s Decade of Stalin’s Gothic architecture and Russian
baroque. Most famous are the Seven Sisters Skyscrapers.
1953 Stalin dies. Truths about Stalin’s repressions are later
revealed by Khrushchev (now leader of the USSR).
1980 Moscow hosts the Summer Olympics, boycotted by
western countries due to the war in Afghanistan. Olympic
Mishka becomes the most popular Olympic mascot of all time.
1987 Gorbachev introduces political and economic reforms
perestroika. Anti-communist movements spread across the
USSR and in 1990, the Soviet Union collapses.
1990 The first McDonalds opens at Pushkin Square with
queues of 5km. Moscow party chief Boris Yeltsin becomes
Russia’s first democratically elected president in 1991.
1993 Russia faces a constitutional crisis and in October
Moscow’s White House is stormed in an attempt to crush
a coup. Yeltsin remains the president.
Mid - late1990s From a city with almost no restaurants,
hidden clubs and KGB prostitutes Moscow rises as Night
Life and Party Capital where everything is available - from
naked hairdressers to dancing in the Gulag Club.
1994 Moscow’s mayor Yury Luzhkov decides to rebuild
Church of Christ the Saviour, which opens in 2000.
1998 The Rouble fails, Moscow suffers a major economic-
crash powered by rapid inflation. Boris Yeltsin resigns on
New Year 2000 and Vladimir Putin becomes President.
2002 Moscow gets back on track towards becoming the
world's most expensive city. At the same time, the city
becomes the playing field for Chechen terrorists who plant
bombs in the Metro and in October 2002, the audience of
the Dubrovka theatre is held hostage. 130 die in the bungled
rescue attempt.
2008 Putin finishes his 8 year term and Dmitri Medvedev
becomes the new Russian President with Putin acting as
Prime Minister.
2010 In March two female suicide bombers kill 38 people
in the Lubyanka and Park Kultury metro stations.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Basics 9
National holidays
Note: all government offices and most other official
institutions are closed on public holidays. Working
days are often shifted. For instance, if it falls on a Tue
or a Thu, then the weekend is shifted a day towards
the holiday and the Sat or the Sun becomes an official
working day.
January 1 ........................................................... New Year
January 7 ......................................... Orthodox Christmas
February 23 ..................... Defender of the Fatherland Day
 (informally known as Men’s Day)
March 8 ................................ International Women’s Day
May 1 ......................................Day of Spring and Labour
May 9 .............................................................. Victory Day
June 12 ........................................................... Russia Day
November 4 .................................... Day of Popular Unity
Getting Around
Public Transport
Buses, Trolleybuses and Trams – The bus, trolleybus
and tram network functions under the same ticketing sys-
tem. Buy tickets from the small kiosks near to bus stations
for 24Rbl a single ticket, 5 trips for 90Rbl, 10 for 180Rbl
and 20 trips will set you back 350Rbl. Buying your ticket
onboard costs you 28Rbl.
Moscow Metro – Moscow’s metro is fast and efficient
and the second busiest in the world after the Tokyo metro.
Cost per ride is 26Rbl (it is usually wise to buy a few trips
in one go). Operating hours are from 05:30/06:00 until
01:00. To enter, swipe the metro card then go through
the barriers (the barriers will hit you if you don’t swipe the
card first!). Plan your trip in advance on www.metroway.
ru (interactive) or www.mosmetro.ru.
Car Rental
For those who can’t be without a car, here are some
people who‘ll give you one.
AVIS Russia Car Rental tel. (+7) 925 046 99
49, www.avis-rentacar.ru. Has an office at Interna-
tional Airport Sheremetyevo 2 Terminal F, arrival hall,
which operates daily from 09:00 - 23:00, tel. 8 925
046 99 49.
Hertz 1st Brestskaya, 34, MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 232 08 89, www.hertz.ru.QOpen 09:00
- 21:00.
Sixt Ul. Novoslobodskaya 20, MMendeleevskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 589 11 11, www.sixt-rent.ru.
Taxis
Taxis to the city centre and airports depend on the taxi
driver (his/her mood) and the time of day rather than
where the station is. Short trips around the city cost
around 300 - 500Rbl.
New Yellow Taxi tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88.
Taxi Shanson tel. (+7) 495 925 75 13, www.
tshanson.ru.
Taxity tel. (+7) 495 988 19 88, www.taxity.ru.
XXL Taxi tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94.
August - September 2010
10 russian trains
Travelling by Russian train is a fun, memorable and completely
unique Russian experience – but it all of course depends on
where you are going and what kind of train you are taking.
With the In Your Pocket team having spent a full nine years in
Russia, seven of them devoted solely to these very guides,
we’ve taken more than our fair share of Russian trains. Be-
tween us we’ve clocked up weeks and possibly months, spent
on trains travelling between Moscow, St. Petersburg, Sochi,
Ukraine, the Baltics and many, many more towns and even
have a whopping five trans-Siberian trips under our belts. So
if you are taking the train for the first time this summer we’ve
collected up all the information you might ever need to know.
By Louise Whitworth
Types of train
Sapsan Express Trains
Almost all Russian trains are long-distance ones (for obvious
reasons) although between St. Petersburg and Moscow
there is also a super flashy new express train called Sap-
san which travels between the cities at great speeds and
completes the journey in just 4 hours. Built in Germany, it is
efficient and modern inside and is especially popular with
those travelling between the cities for business. Trains
usually leave 8 times a day (at the same times from both
cities) and the earliest arrivals are at around 09:00 while
the latest are at 23:40. Trains leave/arrive at Moskovsky
vokzal in St. Petersburg (metro station pl. Vosstaniya) and
leave/arrive at Leningradsky vokzal (metro station Komso-
molskaya) in Moscow.
Elektrichka
If you are heading out to small towns somewhere in the nearby
countryside or just diving deep into Moscow’s sprawling sub-
urbs, you may well be going there by elektrichka (local train).
This is real Russian life. Hard wooden benches for seats, no
toilets, no air-conditioning (just open windows) and during
your whole trip sellers will badger you with whatever they have
on offer: ice-cream, maps, shoestrings, magnifying glasses,
lighters in the shape of matches and so on. To enter you need
to buy small barcoded tickets from the ticket windows and
scan them through the turnstiles. Hold on to your ticket as it
will be checked again during the journey. Many cheapskates
prefer not to buy a ticket and can be instead seen jumping off
platforms, running over tracks and then climbing up embank-
ments and over bridges to avoid the turnstile fare.
Long Distance Trains
The majority of the trains tracing their way across the country
tend to go over-night. Between Moscow and St. Petersburg
dozens of night trains leave every evening, taking anything
from 8 to 12 hours to complete the journey. Heading further
afield journeys can take anything from 30 hours (Moscow –
Sochi), to 6 days (Moscow – Vladivostok).
Moscow In Your Pocket
There are generally three classes of compartments in the trains
1st class (luxe) - These cabins have only two beds in them
(so plenty of space) and are usually complimented by free
drinks and flowers on the table.
2nd class (Kupe) - Kupes have four beds in them and are prob-
ably the most convenient for the average traveler as they pro-
vide plenty of space, but are still cheaper than taking a plane.
3rd class (platzkart) - The third class platzkart is the class
that most of the average Russians take as it is the cheapest.
Here the carriages are open so there are no doors and you
have to share the space with the smells and snores of all
your fellow passengers. The beds are accordingly shorter
and you have to make up your own bedding roll. Beds on the
side (bokovye) are particularly short, so if you are over five
feet tall, think again. The experience can be claustrophobic
and hot and the queues for the toilets endless, but at the
same time the meetings that you will have with Russians
in the platzkart can be amongst the most memorable.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
departure time – don’t be late, they won’t wait!
departure date
number of the train
seat or bed number (myesta)
your passport number –
check when you buy
the ticket that the seller
copied it correctly
Note all times are always Moscow time – even when you’re in a different time zone.
Buying tickets
If you like tor ture, buy your tickets from the ticket win-
dows (kassa) at one of the train stations. We recommend
going at 6am on Sunday morning when there are less
people. People in the queues are not shy and retiring
types and will push in all over the place so keep your
wits about you and don’t be afraid to get pushy. When
choosing a ticket window, ensure they are not due to
take a break in the next hour or two. Most cashiers don’t
speak English so it can be handy to write down on a
piece of paper the dates and times that you would like
to go and tr y to copy down the name of the cities – for
example Москва (Moscow) – in Russian just for clarity.
You can always buy from a ticket agency for a less painful
experience, they will usually charge you around 200Rbl
commission per ticket.
Buying tickets online
www.rzd.ru The official booking site of the Russian
railway. The booking page itself is only available in
Russian and you can only pay with credit cards (no
debit cards). When you have booked, head to the
station and looking for the ticket machines. Type in
your booking number and passport details and it will
print you a ticket.
realrussia.co.uk Run from the UK, this is a much more
user friendly way to buy a ticket if you can't speak
or read Russian.
palytra.com Specialising in big train adventures, you
can book tickets to Siberia and Asia here, as well as
plane tickets if you get tired of days on end spent in
a Siberian train.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
russian trains 11
number of your carriage (vagon)
that’s you! arrival time
Trans-Siberian adventures
The Trans-Siberian as it is known in popular travel-lore is actually
just the name of the rail tracks and there are in fact three differ-
ent marathon train journeys that cross Siberia and into the Far
East. The journey all the way to Vladivostok (the trans-sib route)
takes 6 days and crosses
7 time zones. There are
two other routes which
can also be taken – the
Moscow-Beijing (trans-
Manchurian) and th e
Moscow-Beijing via Ulan
Bator (Trans-Mongolian)
both of which also take
about 6 days and nights.
If you are taking any of these routes you will of course probably
want to stop a few times and sample some of the towns along
the way. This can be a complicated thing to arrange by yourself,
although not impossible. Tickets for trains can be bought 45
days in advance and in theory if you book far enough ahead
and in an organized manner you can buy separate tickets for
your whole trip in one go. Yes it is as complicated as it sounds
and the cashier you buy from will probably make the process
as difficult as possible, but if you are really on a budget and will
only travel third class that’s probably the least of your worries.
Usually most people prefer to arrange their tickets through a tour
agency such as palytra.com or vodkatrain.com, who charge up
to three times the usual rate for tickets but provide lots of helpful
extra services along the way.
Places to visit en route
Until you reach the middle of Siberia and the edges of the
steppe all three routes pass through the same cities. Places
that you might consider spending a few days in include:
Nizhny Novgorod – an ancient Russian town known for its
traditional craftsmen and artisans based right on the Volga.
Yekaterinburg – the border town between Europe and Asia
and the place where the last tsars were murdered by the
Bolsheviks.
Novosibirsk - Siberia’s scientific capital is also Siberia’s big-
gest city while the neighbouring old wooden town of Tomsk
remains a quiet backwater.
Irkutsk and lake Baikal - The nearest city to the world’s
largest and deepest lake is Irkutsk, which is about 6 hours
drive from the pristine nature of one of the natural wonders of
the world. It is after Irkutsk that the various train routes start
to split with one train heading down to the capital of Mongolia
and the other to the northern Chinese city of Harbin and
finally Beijing, whilst the Russian train continues on towards
the pacific ocean.
August - September 2010
12 russian trains
Train Stations
All of Moscow’s train stations are located next to metro
stations, usually on the Koltsevaya (Circle) Line. Train
stations tend to have little information in English so if you
have tickets already, take note of your train number to
be able to navigate and coordinate where you need to go.
Belorussky Station (BS) Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7,
MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 03 00. Trains go
from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad.
Kazansky Station (KazS) Komsomolskaya pl. 2,
MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 917 31 52. Gate-
way to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara,
Ulan-Ude and beyond.
Kievsky Station (Kiev) Kievskogo Vokzala pl. 2,
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 70 71. As well as to Kiev,
trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev.
Kursky Station (Kur) Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29,
MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 53 10. Local trains
depart from the right hand side of the station (first floor).
Leningradsky Station (LS) Komsomolskaya pl, 3
MKomsomolskaya tel. (+7) 499 262 91 43 Hub for
trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.
Paveletsky Station (PS) Paveletskaya pl. 1 M
Paveletskaya tel. (+7) 499 950 37 00. Today the
station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the
Aeroexpress train.
Rizhsky Station (RS) Rizhskaya pl. 79/3 , M
Rizhskaya tel. (+7) 499 971 15 88. You’ll come here
if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.
Yaroslavsky Station (YarS) Komsomolskaya pl.
5 M Komsomolskaya tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88. To
the Golden Ring and beyond all the way to Vladivostok.
Railway Museum
The Moscow History Museum of railway transport
Rizhskaya Train Station, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495
266 82 08. Hidden around the tracks of the Rizhskaya
train station are dozens of old Russian steam trains. Some
date all the way back to pre-revolutionary times, whilst
others look more distinctly Soviet and futuristic. The
preserved carriages are fascinating, especially the ones
that were used to transport soldiers during world war two.
These wooden carriages with simple wooden planks for
sleeping on and a stove to burn wood and coal in to keep
warm were designed to sleep 40 men - plus eight horses!
During an excursion you can also travel out on one of the
steam trains, towards the train depo (which is still used by
electric trains today), where you can see a train turntable in
action. Q Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Language 13
Life on the Train Moscow Nights
реклама
Arriving When you arrive at your vagon (carriage) you will be
greeted by a provodnik/provodnitsa who will first check your
ticket and direct you to your bed. These train attendants rule the
carriage whilst it is moving and it is good to keep the right side
of them as they can turn out to be your best friend or your worst
enemy, especially in the morning on a hangover. They can sell
you hot and cold drinks from their little cabin next to the toilets
and will bring you fresh sheets in a plastic bag to put on your bed.
Food and Drink Each carriage has its own samovar powered
by coal where you can get hot water for your tea or for your
instant noodles. Pay careful attention not to burn yourself as
the water coming out of it is constantly scorching. Most long
distance trains also have a buffet car where you can get hot and
cold meals and socialize with a beer, although the food on offer Moscow Nights or Evenings In The Countryside Near
is hardly gourmet to say the least. On train journeys that last Moscow (Podmoskovnye Vechera) as it really should be
more than one day, the train usually stops for long (20 to 40 translated, is officially the most popular song of the So-
minutes) periods of time at towns and villages along the way, viet period (alongside the war time classics Katusha and
giving you time to buy some snacks and local produce (such Dyen Pobedy). Originally written as Leningradskie Vechera
as fresh pies, pickled cucumbers or berries depending on the by composer Vasily Solovyov-Sedoy and poet Mikhail
season) from vendors and grannies on the platform. Just be Matusovsky in 1955, the Soviet Ministry of Culture then
careful to check when the train leaves the station. Smoking requested that a Moscow version of the song be made
is usually allowed in the spaces between carriages and more for use in a documentary film about the Spartakiad sports
often than not in the buffet car. competition. The film itself was not particularly memo-
rable but the song somehow struck a cord and was soon
Toilets and washing The shorter the journey the cleaner the played heavily on radio stations across the Soviet Union.
toilets, although generally as the train attendant cleans them Somehow it then made its way in translation to the US
every few hours, Russian trains tend to have reasonable toilet (via a dixie/blues re-mix), but it's China that really took the
facilities on a par with the best European trains and often above song to heart. Even today Podmoskovnye Vechera is still
them. Beware that as there are only two toilets per carriage, if you regularly sung at Chinese parties (in its Chinese version)
are in third class you will be queuing for a long time and the toilets and even President Hu Jintao is known to be a big fan. As
are usually locked 20 minutes before arriving and after leaving Moscow celebrates city day this September, expect to
a station. There are of course no shower facilities on the long hear that (and modern dance hit Moscow Never Sleeps)
distance trains so you will have to make do with the washbasin pumping out of every stereo. Although the official language is Russian, more than 100
and some baby wipes. To get the water to come out of the tap minority languages are spoken. Knowledge of English is
you need to push up the tap from the bottom, there are no on Even whispers aren’t heard in the garden, sadly not as widespread as in European countries. If you can
and off knobs to turn and for most first timers this can take a Everything has died down till morning. learn the Cyrillic alphabet it will make your life a lot easier.
long time to understand. If you are a really efficient traveler you If you only knew how dear to me
could even considering bringing a bath plug and giving yourself
a wet shave – although expect stony faces when you exit if you
Are these Moscow nights. Pocket Dictionary: Remont
are in there more than ten minutes! The river moves, unmoving, Cast your eye down the flowing
All in silver moonlight. boulevards of the ancient city
Dos and Don’ts of the Russian train: A song is heard, yet unheard, and what do you see? Scaffold-
Don’t put your feet on the beds/chairs if you have shoes on. In these silent nights. ing, green mesh overhanging
Seems obvious but many people have been known to do it if hundreds of facades and huge
they are sleeping on a top bunk and for Russians it is the height Why do you, dear, look askance, metal walls covered in advertis-
of rudeness. If you want to look the part and be comfortable With your head lowered so? ing. These facades are under
just bring some slippers with you like everyone else. It is hard to express, and hard to hold back, ‘remont’, the Russian equiva-
Do bring toilet paper and baby wipes (just in case). Everything that my heart holds. lent of renovation and repair.
Don’t forget your passport. Even when the trains aren’t crossing Remont can be inside and out, in all weathers, all hours of the
borders they always check your passport before you board.
Do bring snacks. You won’t need a whole kitchen full of food
But the dawn’s becoming ever brighter. day, and all days of the week. Remont does not only apply to
buildings and construction, there’s also ‘Remont obuvi’ (Shoe
So please, just be good.
but some small snacks that you can share with your travelers Don’t you, too, forget Repair) which is one of those ingenious Russian businesses,
are always a nice touch. Especially if they are something you’ve These summer, Moscow nights. often operating out of a pre-fab box in an under-pass. In fact
brought with you from abroad. you can take almost anything in to get remont done, by a
Do bring some extra entertainment along. Yes the view is nice, master, be it a laptop or a handbag. Priceless.
but if travelling for more than a night you will soon get bored.
A book, guitar, travel chess, backgammon or a pack of cards
are all good props to bring to keep you amused and help break
Practicalities Alphabet
the ice with your fellow travelers.
Don’t drink vodka with your Russian companions. Ok, have one No/Yes / nyet/da
drink with them, it’s polite and part of ‘getting into the culture’ Hello zdrastvuite
and will pass the time, but if it looks like it’s going to be a long Good Bye dasvidanya
drinking session, don’t be afraid to drop out. If you do decide to How are you? kak dela?
continue drinking with them; at least eat something! Thank you spasibo
Don’t drink vodka with soldiers. Even if you think you should Sorry izvinitye
be polite and accept their offer, don’t even think about doing Please pazhalusta
it. Ever. Trust us. I don’t understand ya nye panimayu
moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
14 Culture & Events
Cinemas
35mm Ul. Pokrovka 47/24, MKrasniye Vorota, tel.
(+7) 495 917 18 83, www.kino35mm.ru. Main stream
and art films shown in original translations.
5 Zvezd. D-5 B. Obchinnikovskiy per. 16, Novokuznets-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 91 69 and E-7 Ul. Bakhrushina
25 Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 916 9. 5zvezd.
ru. Popular cinema showing a wide range of Hollywood
blockbusters in original language (note not all films are in
original language).
Dome Cinema Olympisky pr 18/1, MProspekt Mira,
tel. (+7) 495 931 98 73, www.domecinema.ru. Screen-
ing films in English without dubbing them into Russian is
wonderful but sometimes the sound here is not amazing.
Concert Halls
Most theatres close during the summer, but some are still run-
ning special summer repetoires. By the time Septmber arrives
though the cultural schedule usually gets back into swing.
Column Hall of House of the Unions (HU) C-3 Ul.
Bolshaya Dmitrovka 1, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 692
09 56, www.domsojuzov.ru
International House of Music - Chamb er
Hall (IHMC) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52,
bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11,
www.mmdm.ru.
International House of Music - Svetlanov
Hall (IHMS) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52,
bldg. 8, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11,
www.mmdm.ru.
International House of Music - Theatre Hall
(IHMT) F-7, Kosmodamianskaya Nab. 52, bldg.
8, M Paveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 10 11,
www.mmdm.ru.
Mocow Philharmonic Chamber Hall (PCH) B-2,
Ul. Tverskaya 29, bldg. 3, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
Moscow Conservatory Small Hall (CSH) B-3/4,
Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 13/6, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru.
Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall (PTH)
B-2, Triumfalnaya Pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
Rakhmaninov Conservatory Hall (RH) B-3/4, Ul.
Bolshaya Nikitskaya 11, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
232 04 00, www.meloman.ru.
Tickets for Theatre & Events
Tickets for most events can be bought at one of the many
ticket offices (teatralnaya kassa). Of course each venue
sells its own tickets and some let you reserve tickets on
the internet. Tickets can also be bought online at booking
agencies such as www.kassir.ru, www.kontramarka.
ru and www.parter.ru (in Russian only). The excellent
site www.innshopping.ru have booking pages in English
and will deliver tickets for free in Moscow. Venues such
as the Bolshoi Theatre (www.bolshoi.ru) have an online
box office. Choose your seats, pay by Visa or Mastercard
and then pick up your tickets before the performance.
Moscow In Your Pocket
What’s on and When
Finding out about what’s going in Moscow just got a whole
lot easier! We’ve redesigned the Culture and Events
pages of our website so to include a calendar that lists all
the events going on in the city. Not just the ones we have
printed here. To use it, head to moscow.inyourpocket.
com and click on the culture and events link. Select a date
on the calendar in the top left hand corner and all number
of concerts, shows, holidays and exhibitions will spring
up in front of your eyes! Yes it’s all as simple as that.
Theatres
Ballet and opera are the bread and butter of the Russian
cultural scene. These are some the most famous places
offering classical, ballet and opera in Moscow.
Bolshoi Theatre (BT) C-3, Teatralnaya Pl, 1,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 250 73 17, www.bolshoi.ru.
Helikon Opera (HO) A-4, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, bldg. 2,
MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre (KNOT) C-1,
Karetny Ryad 3, bldg. 2, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
694 08 68, www.novayaopera.ru.
Masterskaya Petra Fomenko (MPF) Nab. Tarasa
Shevchenko 29, MKutuzovskaya, (+7) 499 249 19 21,
www.fomenko.theatre.ru
Russian Academic Youth Theatre (RAYT) C-3
Teatralnaya pl. 2,MTeatralnaya tel. +7 495 692 00 69
Mossovet Theatre (MST) B-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sado-
vaya 16, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 20 35,
www.mossoveta.ru
Operetta Theatre (OT) C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka
6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 50 50, www.
mosoperetta.ru.
Pushkin Drama Theatre (PDT) B-3, Tverskoy bul.
23, metro Pushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 12 89 www.
teatrpushkin.ru
Stanislavsky Music Theatre (SMT) C-2, Ul. Bol-
shaya Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 28 35, www.stanislavskymusic.ru.
State Kremlin Palace (SKP) C-4, Ul. Vozdvivzhenka
1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 620 79 10,
www.kremlin-gkd.ru
Venues
Column Hall of House of the Unions HU
Bolshoi Theatre BT
Helikon Opera HO
International House of Music Chamber Hall IHMC
International House of Music Svetlanov Hall IHMS
International House of Music Theatre Hall IHMT
Kolobov Novaya Opera Theatre KNOT
State Kremlin Palace SKP
Meyerhold Centre MC
Moscow Conservatory Small Hall CSH
Masterskaya Petra Fomenko MPF
Mocow Philharmonic Chamber Hall PCH
Moscow Philharmonic Tchaikovsky Hall PTH
Mossovet Theatre MST
Pushkin Drama Theatre PDT
Stanislavsky Music Theatre SMT
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Culture & Events 15
While St. Petersburg may claim to be the capital of Russian 25.08 Wednesday
culture, Moscow may well claim to be its birthplace. 19:30 U2 (360 tour)
Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and Luzhniki Stadium (LUZ), Luzhnaya nab. 24, MSport-
co. They all took their inspiration from this magical and ivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.u2.com/tour/
majestic place. index. The most famous
thing to have ever come
August Events out of Ireland since Guiness
and Shamrocks, U2 are one
05.08 Thursday of the super groups of their
21:00 Iggy Pop and the Stooges age, and despi te having
Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905 done the rounds now for 30
years this is the first time
goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 0998, www.iggypop.org/. If the
face or even the music of Iggy Pop they’ve ever visited Rus-
aren’t recognisable, then at least
his over muscled torso and stringy
sia. The tickets have been
on sale for almost a year
hair ought to be. Beloved as Iggy is and the hype surrounding
to punk fans across the world, he
shows no signs of slowing down
the event has been unsur-
passed, so you will be very
and amending his behaviour, which lucky to get your hands on a
makes this concert an absolute ticket. As ever with U2 their
cracker. His stage antics are legend, his stage persona concert reviews have so far
inspires that weird rock star devotion that only groupies been good and they are guaranteed not to disappoint - es-
understand. Q Admission 1,900 - 24,000Rbl. pecially given the chance to actually be able to see them
from their 360 degree round stage. British indie band Snow
05.08 Thursday Patrol will be supporting.QAdmission 2,500 - 8,000Rbl.
21:00 St. Petersburg Ska Jazz Review
26.08 Thursday - 29.08 Sunday
16 Tons, ul. Presnenesky val. 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905
goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru. They say Mamakabo
that ‘this band swings as hard as it skanks’ and judging from their Ethnomir (90km from Moscow on Kievskoe shosse),
tel. (+7) 926 812 28 80, www.mamakabo.ru. Ma-
faithful following before they went on hiatus to find a new singer,
we certainly believe it’s true. Starting out as a spin-off from the makabo places itself as the antithesis of the pop satu-
rated festival scene. You may not have heard of many of
St. Petersburg based ska band Spitfire, Ska Jazz Review went
on to become a winning band in their own right, and their jumping the people who are on the line-up, but you can be certain
that they are all accomplished well-respected musicians
concerts are massively enjoyable come rain or shine - and we
would know as we’ve been following them for years. Now with in their own rights. Top of the list is Australian guitar god
a new lead vocalist, they are back and touring as hard as ever. Tommy Emmanuel c.g.p who plays faster than speed of
light and is cited as the best acoustic player in the world,
didatonic harmonica player Howard Levy who is loved for
12.08 Thursday
21:00 Apocalyptica his versatility, especially in the blues, Cameroonian bass
player Etienne Mbappe and jazz-funk infused local legend
Club B1 Maximum, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky
Sergei Manuk yan. Numerous other vocal groups, jazz,
prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 921 15 57, www.b1club.ru.
blues and folk musicians and a Beatles tribute band will
Long-haired, leather clad heavy metal rockers playing cellos.
round out the playbill and the weekend promises to be
Only in Finland. Classically trained cellists, Apocalyptica,
very child-friendly, and ecologically efficient. For those
formed back in 1996 after they were spotted at a concert
wanting to stay overnight there is accommodation avail-
playing Metallica covers for fun. They were soon recording
able in the museum reserve’s hotel, in tents or in real
albums and rocking around Europe with a unique sound that
Mongolian yurts.
takes inspiration from all forms of metal. It’s a concept that’s
currently unrivalled and highly respected by the international
rock community.QAdmission 1,800 - 5,000Rbl.
29.08 Sunday
19:00 The Pogues
19.08 Thursday - 22.08 Sunday Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905
Mesto vstrechi - Shirota 54 (Meeting place - goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09
latitude 54) 98, www.milkclub.ru. The
original folk-punk band, the
Ryazan oblast, novoryazanskoe shosse (160km south of
Pogues are almost as famous
Moscow), tel. (+7) 495 781 71 83, topfest.ru. This festival
is promoted as one for the ‘grown-ups’, meaning showers, no
for their music, particularly
the all-time Christmas classic
long queues for toilets (half the guests will stay in bungalows),
with the late Kirsty MacColl
sushi bars, an Uzbek restaurant, playgroups to dump the kids
Fairytale of New York, as for
in and a meditation and yoga area. This is about as posh as
their permanently trashed
festivals come. As for the music, the emphasis is largely on
frontman Shane MacGowen.
folky Russian bands like Pelageya, Billy’s Band and Turetsky’s
After breaking up for some
choir, jazz and lounge music and the slightly cheesy sounds
years, the group recently got
of ‘Russia’s Jack Johnson’ Uma 2urman. There will also be a
back together and have gone
dance tent or ‘club area’ pumping out the house tunes, an open
on tour to continue promoting
air cinema, football and volleyball pitch and a fish-filled lake to
Irish/English drinking songs
escape to. Q Tickets start at 800Rbl for one day’s entrance
performed in a punk fashion. Incidentally the band’s original
to the festival. Rental of camping space starts at 800Rbl and
name was pogue mahone which means in Irish ‘Kiss my arse’.
bungalows start from 16,000Rbl for a six person bungalow.
That’s the spirit! Q Admission 1,900Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
16 Culture & Events Culture & Events 17

15.09 Wednesday
National Orchestra Festival September Events Ballet 20:00 Sting
03.09 Friday Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km, MMyakininskaya, tel.
06.09 Monday - 12.09 Sunday 20:00 Tori Amos Aug Time Event Venue (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.
Grand Festival of the Russian National Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km, MMyakininskaya, 03 19:00 Giselle KNOT crocus-hall.com. Supported by
Orchestra tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.com. The
04 19:00 Don Quixote KNOT the Royal Philharmonic Concert
B-2, Moscow Philharmonic Tchayikovky Hall (PTH), 05 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty RAYT Orchestra, the Symphonicity
original hippy rock chick with oodles of soul, Tori Amos is a
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www. 06 19:00 Cinderella KNOT tour brings Sting’s music into
talent and a half. Although her career has had its highs and 07 19:00 Don Quixote RAYT
russianarts.org. Taking place for the second time, this lows over the years, the spectacular singer/songwriter and a new light. A few of the old
festival promises the absolute best in classical music. 08 19:00 Swan Lake RAYT a capella tunes are still there
pianist is still a passionate and live performer her concerts 09-10 19:00 Swan Lake KNOT
Led by one of the greatest orchestras in the world, the are always highly emotional and intimate affairs. Many more but now Sting’s focus is on big
festival has a repetoire that covers every thing from 11 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty KNOT music, dramatic backing and
hippy dippy girls with quirky voices and a way with words 12 19:00 Romeo and Juliet RAYT
chamber music and ballet to grand symphonic pieces may have followed in her path, but Amos still remains top of course his own silky vocals.
and operas. Special highlights will include Stravinsky’s 13 19:00 Spartak KNOT With all his songs being given
of the pack having penned songs for many of her would-be 14-15 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty RAYT
Firebird performed by school age dancers and an appear- protégés and continuing to be one of the most respected completely new arrangements,
16 19:00 Romeo and Juliet KNOT
ance by Hungarian jazz violinist Roby Lacatos. voices in the business. Q Admission 1,300 - 12,000Rbl. the new sound is much more
17 19:00 The Nutcracker RAYT
mellow and romantic than his
18 19:00 Coppélia KNOT
Sep Time Event 04.09 Saturday - 09.09 Thursday Latin inspired tastes of the last few years.
19 19:00 Carmen TV by Kiev modern ballet RAYT
06 19:00 Firebird - Ballet by Stravinsky 20:00 Moscow Military Tattoo 20 19:00 Ward No. 6, Underground by Kiev RAYT
07 19:00 RNO and Laura Claycomb (USA) D-4, Red Square, www.kremlin-military-tattoo.ru. The modern balles 17.09 Friday
08 19:00 Cinderella - opera by Rossini Moscow military tattoo is one of the biggest displays of 21-22 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty RAYT Zemfira
09 19:00 Gala Concert, Conductor Teodor military bands and marching styles in the world. With the 23 19:00 The Nutcracker RAYT Crocus City Hall, MKAD 65Km,
Currentzis (Greece) Kremlin walls and St. Basil’s Cathedral as its backdrop, 24-25 19:00 Swan Lake KNOT MMyakininskaya, tel. (+7) 499
10 19:00 Roby Lacatos Orchestra (Hungary) the Spasskaya Tower festival will feature more than 1,000 26-27 19:00 Swan Lake RAYT 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.
11 19:00 RNO – Wagner, Glier, Berlioz musicians and soldiers from ten different countries, includ- 28 19:00 Don Quixote KNOT com. Described as Elvis, The Sex
12 19:00 Gala concert – Taneyev, Beethoven ing Russia, France, the USA, Turkey and Israel. The show is 30 19:00 Don Quixote KNOT Pistols and Courtney Love rolled into
not only about drums, horns and goose-stepping though, Sep Time Event Venue one, Zemfira is a lot more alternative
3-D laser and video effects, special video and light instal- 05 19:00 The Nutcracker KB than other Russian princess type
Classical Music lations, pyrotechnics and tons of fireworks will add even 14-15
16
19:00
19:00
Preljocaj's Ballet
State Folk Dance Ensemble of PTH
BT singers. With the Russian press
describing her as Kurt Cobain in a
more power to the wonderful display of military might and
homegrown musical talent. Q Admission 500 - 3,000Rbl. Abkhazia the Sharatyn dress, the girl has got attitude and
Sep Time Event Venue 16-19 19:00 Preljocaj's Ballet BT
07 19:00 Operetta evening IHMS album sales in spades. Her refresh-
10.09 Friday 18 19:00 The Sleeping Beauty KB ingly honest voice and lyrics provide
09 19:00 Rachmaninov - conductor IHMS 21 19:00 Esmeralda BT a dose of reality on the music scene.
Vladimir Spivakov 19:00 Roxette 22 19:00 Esmeralda BT
13 19:00 Mussorgsky, Rachmaninov PTH Dvorets Sporta Megasport, Khodinskiy bul. 3, MDinamo,
Q Admission TBA.
23-24 19:00 Igor Moiseev State Academic PTH
14 19:00 Charity concert - Beethoven, Verdi PTH tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.roxette.se. Popularising Folk Ensemble
14 19:00 Dedication to reunification of SCH the short platinum look for women,
19.09 Sunday
23-24 19:00 Swan Lake BT
Germany - Beethoven, Brahms Swedish duo Roxette are also very 26 19:00 Swan Lake BT 19:00 Dmitri Hvorostovsky
15 19:00 Organ evening IHMS well know for their 1980s smash 26 19:00 Evening of Modern Choreography IHMT Concert Hall Barvikha Luxury Village, tel. (+7) 499 225
15 19:00 Borodin Quartet, Yuri Bashmet PTH hits It Must Have Been Love and 28 19:00 The Nutcracker KB 88 80, www.barvikhahotel.com. He’s called the velvet
16 19:00 Three ages of classical music IHMC Listen To Your Heart. After Marie 30 19:00 Tango with the stars IHMS voice and is a superstar of Russian opera. Hvorostovsky
17 19:00 Chamber Ensemble the Moscow PTH got a brain tumour back in the early 30 19:00 La Bayadere BT has sung on all the world’s stages and even pocketed a
Soloists of Yuri Bashmet 2000s the band went on hiatus and Grammy award and has an almost fanatical following in his
19 19:00 Brigite Engerer (piano, France) - PTH only last year got back together to home country. With his immense physical stature and shock
Borodin, Tchaikovsky peddle a Greatest Hits album and of white hair he always makes a very striking appearance
20 19:00 Opera star Ermonela Jaho
(soprano, Albania)
PTH record some new tunes (most of Russian Folk Show on stage and there are those who have compared his sen-
sual velvety voice to ‘an ocean of glowing teardrops’. This
which unfortunately do not have
21 19:00 Evening of Jazz-guitar IHMT concert is a special part of the opening of the Baravikha
the staying power of their earlier
22 19:00 Stars of Gipsy jazz IHMS
classics).QAdmission 2,500 - 10,000Rbl. Through - 15.09 Wednesday holiday village and so ticket prices are sky high and the
22 19:00 Sibelius, Tchaikovsky PTH Russian National Dance Show Kostroma event is expected to be quite ‘exclusive’. Q Admission
22 19:00 Dedication to Astor Piazzolla IHMC 10,000 - 25,000Rbl.
25 19:00 Lille National Orchestra - Ravel, PTH 13.09 Monday Concert Hall of Cosmos Hotel, Prospekt Mira 150,
19:00 Ozzy Osbourne MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495
Stravinskiy 20.09 Monday
Dvorets Sporta Megasport, Khodinskiy bul. 3, MDinamo, 234 63 73, nationalrus-
25 19:00 Dedication to Lizst SCH
26 19:00 Dedication to Chopin anniversary PTH tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.ozzy.com. The Prince of sianshow.ru. More than Placebo
26 19:00 Debussy, Poulenc, Stravinskiy SCH Darkness and the Godfather of Heavy Metal, Ozzy has seen matryoshkas is the catch- Leningradsky bul. 31, bldg 4,
27 19:00 The Bavaria Orchestra, Kent PTH and done it all from biting the head off cry of the Kostroma Russian MDinamo, www.arenamos-
Nagano (Usa) - Mozart, Strauss a bat live on stage, trying to murder cultural dance troupe. This cow.ru. Post-punkers Placebo
28 19:00 Youth Symphony Orchestra CIS, PTH his wife, almost dying in a quadbike Russian National Dance are often described as a kind of
conductor Vladimir Spivakov crash, starring in his own reality TV Show features everything glam version of Nirvana and are
29 19:00 Organ evening IHMS show ever and of course selling mil- that you can think of when well known for their lead singer
30 19:00 Symphony Orchestra the New PTH lions and millions of records. Despite it comes to Russian culture. The general theme of the show Brain Molko’s wailing and nasal
Russia, conductor Yuri Bashmet his age and health condition, which is is Russia’s long and glorious history, but how it is presented is vocal style and androgynous
not where it once was after decades the real miracle. The troupe consists of more than 50 dancers look. Singing as they do, mostly
of substance abuse, Ozzy still rocks who wear more than 300 costumes during the course of the about drug abuse, depression
with the best of them and this will be performance. All elements of Russian culture are presented in and failed relationships they
his first concert in Russia promoting this hi-tech, colourful extravaganza, from the Cossacks to the have quite an emo following,
yescho! = encore! his new album Scream. Q Admission Soviets and Tsarist opulence to traditional folklore. Q Daily at
19:30, except Thursdays. Admission 1,500Rbl.
although their newer songs are
noticeably more positive and have garnered them a wider appeal.
2,200 - 10,000Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

18 Culture & Events Culture & Events 19

23.09 Thursday - 26.09 Sunday

Opera & Operetta Flea Market Fair
A-1, Tishinskaya pl.1, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 925 585
Aug Time Event Venue 72 74, w w w.bloxa.ru.
15 19:00 The Csárdás Princess OT This seasonal flea market
16 19:00 The Violet of Montmarte OT is one of the best places to
19 19:00 The Merry Widow OT get your antique fix all under
20 19:00 Mister X OT one roof. Focusing mostly
22 19:00 Die Fledermaus (The Tick) OT on pre-revolutionar y and
24 19:00 The Csárdás Princess OT Soviet goods from across
25 19:00 The Violet of Montmarte OT Russia, Ukraine and Central
27 19:00 Mister X OT Asia, there are also a good
29 19:00 My Fair Lady OT number of European antiques in here too, particularly from
30 19:00 Die Fledermaus (The Tick) OT the turn of the century. If you are looking for clothes and
Sep Time Event Venue accessories there are more than a few stalls selling vintage
04 19:00 Mister X OT
pieces and handmade jewellery, while the main focus is on
05 19:00 Die Fledermaus (The Tick) OT
pieces for the home. If you have some patience and a keen
20 19:00 Eugene Onegin KNOT
eye, it can be a collector’s paradise. Q Entrance 150Rbl.
21 19:00 Il Barbiere di Siviglia KNOT
21 19:00 The Violet of Montmarte OT
22 19:00 My Fair Lady OT 24.09 Friday
23 19:00 L'Elisir d'Amore KNOT 19:00 Massive Attack
23 19:00 The Csárdás Princess OT Sport palace Megasport, khodin-
24 19:00 Eugene Onegin SMT skiy bul. 3, MDinamo, massiveat-
25 11:00 The Golden Cockerel BT tack.com. Despite forming all the
25 19:00 The Golden Cockerel BT way back in 1988 Massive Attack
26 19:00 Die Fledermaus (The Tick) OT remain a powerful name in elec-
28 19:00 Boris Godunov BT tronic music. Famous tracks such as
28 19:00 Die Fledermaus (The Tick) KNOT Teardrop and Unfinished Sympathy
29 19:00 Boris Godunov BT still retain the power that they had
30 19:00 Madama Butterfly SMT when they were first released back
30 19:00 Nabucco KNOT in the 1990s while their latest album
Heligoland released this year, has
showed they are still at the top of
Circus their game despite not producing a record for seven years.

Kuklacheva Cat Theatre (KCT), Kutuzovsky Pr. 25.09 Saturday

25, M Kutuzovskaya, tel. 499 249 29 07, www. 19:00 Joe Cocker
catstheatre.ru C-4, State Kremlin Palace, Kremlin, MBiblioteka im.
People and cats - cat acrobatics with a little bit of ballet Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 730 73 00, www.cocker.com.
in there too (from the people not the cats that is…) Gravelly voiced rock/blues singer Joe Cocker may have
*Olimpiada Kota Borisa - 70 cats take part in been around the block more than a thousand times, but
the show, and famous Cat Boris from Kitty-cat TV that won’t stop the old timer continuing to pump out the
advertisement plays the main role.
old favourites to his fans. As he said himself ‘God, I’m just
August
01, 08*, 15* 12:00 a fat bald guy, 60 years old, singing the blues, you know?’
02-05, 06*, 09-11, 12-13*, 16:00 which is fair enough. Expect Cocker to include all of his
23-27 biggest hits on the list such as With A Little Help From My
07*, 14*, 14:00 Friends, Unchain My Heart and Cry Me A River. Q Admis-
September sion 2,500 - 15,000Rbl.
04*, 17:00
05*, 12* 12:00 28.09 Tuesday
10* 16:00 20:00 DUB FX
11* 14:00 Milk Moscow, ul. Sergeya Makayeva 9, MUlitsa 1905
Admission 200 - 1500Rbl goda, tel. (+7) 495 726 09 98, www.milkclub.ru. DUB
Nikulin Moscow Circus (NMC), Tsvetnoy Boulevard FX, a regular guy from Manchester
13, M Tsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. 495 625 89 70, www. who uses his own voice and a sampler
circusnikulin.ru to produce huge multi-layered songs,
Time of the Clowns - Yes, there will be clowns, found his fame performing just right
but there will also be jugglers, acrobats, sealions down on the streets of Europe. Soon
and tigers per forming some miraculous stunts. becoming an internet phenomenon,
August Time the down-to-earth genius beatboxer
01, 02, 05, 06, 08, 09, 12, 13, 19:00 now plays to huge paying audiences
15, 16, 19, 22, 25, 27, 29, 30 with great success. At this concert he
07, 14, 21, 28 14:30, 19:00 will be collaborating and improvising
September Time with other MCs Flower Fairy, CAde
01 10:45, 13:00, 15:15 and saxophonist Mr Woodnote. If
03, 04, 06 19:00 you are anything into ragga, beatbox
05 14:30, 19:00 and street sounds this stuff will blow you away. Q Admission
Admission 400 - 2500Rbl. 990 - 2,200Rbl.

Реклама
Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
20 exhibitions exhibitions 21

From Rembrandt and Picasso all the way through to Andy Through 12.09 Sunday
Through 29.08 Sunday
Warhol and David Lynch, the latest and the greatest in the
world of art can be found in the Russian capital
Soviet art photography of the 1960s and 1970s
The Feast of Trimalchio, AES+F
Sand sculpture festivals
C-6, Lumier gallery, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bolot-
naya nab. 3, bldg. 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture, Ul. Obraztso- Through 14.10 Thursday
Through 14.08 Saturday 98 78, www.lumiere.ru. After Kruschchev’s thaw, the 1960s va 19A, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 20, World Chapmionships of Sand Sculpture
Mark Rothko and 1970s became one of the most interesting periods in Soviet www.garageccc.com. The latest project from the Rus-
sian art collective AES+F, Kolomenskoye Museum Estate, MKolomenskoye,
Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture (GCCC), ul. Ob- photography, as photog- tel. 499 615 27 68, www.mgomz.ru. This year’s an-
raztsova 19A, MNovoslobods- raphers began to focus is an exciting excursion
into the world of luxur y nual sand sculpture festival in Kolomenskoe is themed
kaya, tel. 495 645 05 20, www. more on individuals, their around world cinema with the magnificent sculptures
garageccc.com. The first ever lives, wishes and hopes, and decadence, wi th a
distinct flavour of the ab- that are made only using sand depicting such classics
solo exhibition of Mark Rothko’s than simply glorifying as Jurassic Park and the little mermaid. There’ll also be
work to appear in Moscow sits the Soviet worker and surd and kitsch. The main
highlight of the exhibition a huge kids sand pit so they can also getting involved in
hauntingly under dim lights in its documenting militar y building their own masterpieces. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00.
own special section in the middle of parades. This beauti- is the monumental video
installation where viewers Admission 100-400Rbl.
the huge 8,500 square metre con- ful collection containing
structivist ex-bus depot. The 20 more than 350 photos, are completel y thrown
works that have arrived in Moscow tells the story of another into the artist’s fantasy
focus on the artist’s later period time when things looked as though they were simpler, although world that is inspired by
and include works from some of his as is evident, they were actually far more complex than appear- a luxury hotel. The photo
most famous projects including the ances would have you believe. Quite the blast from Russia’s exhibits are equally witty
Four Seasons restaurant and one Soviet past. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. and engrossing with Ro-
of his last grey and black paintings man in spire d s c en e s
from the year he committed suicide. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Through 22.08 Sunday populated by models, socialites, professors and bankers
Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Alexandra Exter who are waited on by chefs, security guards, maids and
masseuses. If you thought Russian art was only all about
C-2, Moscow Museum of Modern Art, ul. Petrovka the seriousness of the Russian soul, think again. Q Open
Through 15.08 Sunday 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Treasures of the Ottoman Sultans (495) 694 28 90, www.
C/D-4, Moscow Kremlin Mu- mmoma.ru. This exhibition Through 30.08 Monday
seum, Kremlin, MAleksan- is one of the most important
drovsky sad, tel. 495 697 03 retrospectives of the year Alexandra Catiere
49, www.kreml.ru. Filled with and for those who are fans of C-5, Pobeda gallery, Red Oktober Chocolate Factory, Through 30.09 Thursday
100 priceless treasures from early 20th Century Russian Bolotnaya naberezhnaya 3 bldg 4, MKropotkinskaya, Holy Russia sand sculpture exhibition
Istanbul’s Tokapi palace, this avant-garde it’s a must-see. tel. (495) 644 03 13, pobedagallery.com. Recently
included in a list of New York’s most promising upcoming Cathedral of Christ the Saviour, ul. Volkhonka 15,
exhibition tells the story of the The museum has carefully MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 10 43, www.
privileged life of Ottoman sultans collected together masses of photographers, young Belarusian Alexandra Catiere is
currently one of the most exciting names in photography artconcern.ru. In the shadow of the immense Cathedral
in the 16th and 17th Centuries. works from across Alexandra of Christ the Saviour, one thousand tonnes of sand has
Th e weal th of an cien t manu- Exter’s career to fill the exhi- in Eastern Europe. Currently living in Paris and working as
a fashion and art photographer this exhibition showcases been sculpted into a 23 metre long, and 7 metre high
s cripts, ornam en tal turbans, bition with cubist paintings, diorama of the history of Russia. Battle scenes of old
huge emeralds and elaborate futurist sculptures, abstract the many highlights of her career over the past 20 years.
QOpen 13:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Rus and the Tatar yoke have been vividly rendered, right
costum es wouldn’t b e ou t of pieces, costume and set down to the windswept hair and blazing eyes by a team
place in Aladdin’s cave. QOpen designs for the theatre and a of sculptors from across Russia, Ukraine, Portugal, Spain,
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Thu. book of her beautifully illustrated manuscripts for which she Through 29.08 Sunday
Canada and the USA.
became famous in later life. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu The Planet’s Hot Breath - Volcanoes and
Through 15.08 Sunday 13:00 - 21:00. Closed last Mon of the month. Glaciers
Vozvrashenie - German and Scandinavian art C-3, Manezh, ul. Mokhovaya, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, 17.09 Friday - 10.01 Monday
of the XV - XVIII Centuries Through 29.08 Sunday tel. (+7) 495 231 33 25, www.mdf.ru. Who can forget the Art of Rene Lalique
B-5, Pushkin Fine Arts Muse- From Raphael to Goya. Masterpieces from Fine chaos that was caused this spring by that Icelandic volcano C-4, Assumption Bel-
um, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKro- Arts museum of Budapest with the unpronounceable name? The massive eruption of fry of Kremlin, MAl-
potkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 B-5, Pushkin Fine Arts Museum, Ul. Volkhonka 12, Eyjafjallajokull was a significant reminder of the power of exandr ovsky Sad,
95 78, www.artsmuseum.ru. MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.arts- nature, just like this exhibition. Photographer Leo Granovsky, tel. (+7) 495 695 37
Handsome knights and fair maid- museum.ru. From Raphael to who works between documental and artistic styles of pho- 76, w w w.kreml.ru.
ens feature heavily in the Pushkin Goya focuses on the obvious tography, reveals the earth’s immense power in over forty Recognised as one of
museum’s exhibi tion devoted - Europe's classical masters. huge photographs taken in Iceland, Hawaii and Kamchatka. the greatest designers
to G erman an d S can dinavian With more than 60 paintings and artists working in
masterpieces of the late middle brought together with the help 10.09 Friday - 28.11 Sunday the ar t nouveau and
a ges and earl y Renaissan ce. of the Budapest art museum, Roger Ballen art deco periods, the
Belonging to private collectors it is not possible to find so Gallery Photogapher.ru, Winzavod, 4-y Siromyat- name Lalique is syn-
as well as the museum, many of much Tintoretto, Rubens, El nichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 onymous with beauty,
these valuable paintings are not Greco and Valacques together 228 11 70, www.gallery.photographer.ru. South Africa creativity and quality.
often shown together. Q Open in one place in Moscow. The based Roger Ballen, first caused furore back in the early Famous for his exqui-
10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. exhibition is seperated into 90s with his photographs of South African white poverty. si te j ewell er y, Ren e
the various schools that it en- With apartheid gone and controversy more difficult to come Lalique was also an outstanding glass maker and designed
compases so that viewers can by, the New York born Ballen has tended more and more the glass interiors for a series of famous masterpiece proj-
Don't forget - Museum Ticket Offices (kassi) better understand how the towards surreal and abstract compositions that challenge ects such as the SS Normandie. This massive exhibition,
German, Dutch, Spanish and the viewer’s notions of reality. This exhibition is one such is a one of a kind that collects together over 200 of his
close one hour before official closing times. Italian schools all influenced piece. Boarding House leaves little clear idea of the who, wonderful creations from the collections of museums from
E.g closing at 18:00 means by your ticket by each other, yet also kept dis- where and what, but continues to mesmerise with its across the world including the Metropolitan Museum of Art
17:00! tinct differences too. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Mon Closed, otherworldly almost horror movie set ups. QOpen 12:00 and the State Hermitage Museum. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Thu 10:00 - 21:00. - 20:00. Closed Mon. Closed Thu.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

22 hotels
We‘ve selected a range of accommodation options from
some of the top end wallet-busters down to the frugal and
friendly options. Prices include VAT (18%) and breakfast
unless otherwise indicated.
Cream of the Crop
Baltschug Kempinski D-5, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNo-
vokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski-
moscow.ru. Without actually being the President, it would be
hard to live closer to the Kremlin than this. Moscow’s first five
star hotel is just across the river and has a stunning view of the
Kremlin. The lobby is home to more business men than tourists.
Rooms bear the mark of royalty and some suites literally have
been designed by minor members of the British royal family.
Suites also have the most sensational bathrooms, sure to one
day grace the pages of design magazines. Brunch is served
on weekends and in-house dining options include the well-re-
garded restaurant Baltchug and Japanese restaurant Shogun.
Q230 rooms (40 suites 43,000 - 470,000Rbl, 190 single/
double 32,000 - 38,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,100-1,800Rbl).
VAT not included. Visa support, registration free of charge.
POTJHAR6FLGKDCW hhhhh
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya F-1, Ul. Kalanchevs-
kaya 21/40, MKrasniye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55
50, www.moscow.hilton.com. Pre-Hilton, the Leningrads-
kaya was the city’s first hotel. The newly renovated, 273-room
palatial hotel is a winning marriage of heritage and modern
elegance. Rooms, as one might expect, are of an exceptional
standard and have all the elegant trimmings. Soft furnish-
ings and understated glamour abound. Highlights include
majestic skyline views, a six-story long brass chandelier
(listed in the Guinness Book of World Records) and a stately
lobby. Q273 rooms (239 doubles 12,000 - 17,000Rbl, 34
suites 20,000 - 72,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast not included
(1,260Rbl). Visa support and registration free of charge.
PHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Marriott Grand Hotel B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 26, MMaya-
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/
mowgr. Situated conveniently on Tverskaya street, the
Marriott Grand boasts luxurious rooms with modern stylings,
fitness and health facilities, and European restaurants. The
Grand is co-managed with two other Marriott hotels in Moscow,
which ensures flexible booking. The rooms themselves offer
generous amount of space and freshness. Twin rooms come
with two king-size beds that you could swim in. Natural light
shines abundantly in their conference rooms and trademark
foyer atrium. Q382 rooms (11 suites 36,000 - 100,000Rbl,
371 single/double 21,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,240Rbl) and VAT
not included. Visa support and registration free of charge.
PHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre Hotel Lenin-
gradskiy pr. 31a, bldg 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 995 00
09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.com. This massive
hotel has been built straight from the begining with the aim of
suceeding where other hotels have failed. All the public spaces
from the lobby to the pre-conference areas are noticeably huge
and well thought out giving plenty of space for rest, relaxation
and those all important informal business meetings. Up in the
rooms you could sail a boat on those beds and the executive
floor is really worth the extra money for the outstanding views,
vertiginous roof terrace and superb complimentary extras.
Down in the basement the popular fitness centre also has
dozens of machines and a large pool area. Q366 rooms (198
singles 24,000 - 27,000Rbl, 69 doubles 24,000 - 27,000Rbl,
99 suites 34,000 - 125,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast (1,100Rbl)
not included. Visa support and registration free of charge.
PHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhhh
Moscow In Your Pocket
New Lotte Hotel Moscow
Lotte Hotel Moscow Novinsky bul. 8, bldg
2, M Smolenskaya, tel. +7 495 745 1000,
www.lottehotel.ru
This sparkling new hotel
from th e Korean Lot te
groups is a valuable addi-
tion to Moscow’s cluster
of 5 star hotels. Purpose
buil t over th e last few
years, the place shines
with attention to detail
and glamorous design, from the huge blown glass
chandelier that crosses three floors through the lobby,
to the spacious rooms (some of the biggest in Moscow)
and excellent dining options. As it is an Asian hotel,
the service levels are quite simply in a class of their
own. At the time of going to press rack rates were still
changeable, check their website for up-to-date details.
Sheraton Palace A-1, Ul. 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya
19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, shera-
tonpalace.ru. This summer the Sheraton Palace traded its
classic look for a modern, cosmopolitan chic, successfully
reenergizing its downstairs Piano Bar & Lobby area. All rooms
house the Sheraton’s trademark Sweet Sleeper Beds, known
for their massive width and undeniable comfort. The top
“club floor” has great perks for its guests, including spacious
executive rooms equipped with a printer and fax machine; a
separate reception desk; private dining and bar areas; and
its own business center. Q212 rooms (36 suites 17,000 -
75,000Rbl, 150 single/double 11,500 - 19,000Rbl). Breakfast
only included for club floor guests. PJAFGKXW
hhhhh
Swissotel Krasnye Holmy F-7, Kosmodamianskaya nab.
52, bld.6, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 98 00, www.
swissotel.com/moscow. Bright and clean as a pin, nothing
in this efficient and contemporary hotel is extraneous or out of
place. This must be the secret to how they manage to include
such enormous bathrooms. Whole football teams could shower
with comfort in those on the top floors. The hotel is a circular
tower structure, which means that each room is unique (and
has a unique view) depending on its position. Our favourites are
the rooms which include spectacular views over the city directly
from the comfort of your bath tub. Spa and fitness facilities and
executive lounges number among the additional advantages to
be found. Q233 rooms (206 singles 26,950 - 36,950Rbl, 206
doubles 28,700 - 38,700Rbl, 26 suites 40,450 - 110,000Rbl, 1
apartments 215,000Rbl). Extra bed 1,500Rbl. VAT and breakfast
(1,600Rbl) not included. Visa support 3,500Rbl, registration
free of charge. PHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
W Wi-Fi connection H Conference facilities
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant M Nearest metro station
D Sauna C Swimming pool
moscow.inyourpocket.com
The Ritz-Carlton C-3, Ul.Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com.
Luscious decor and furnishings abound in this modern pal-
ace, completed just under a year ago. The architects and
designers paid close attention to detail and endowed so-
phisticated rooms with luxury utilities and utmost comfort.
The service here is so complete it borders on aristocratic.
Where else would you be able to call upon a bath or tech-
nology butler or to recharge your laptop while it was locked
away in the room safe? Draw your curtains or switch off the
lights using the touch panel by your bed? The dining facilities
vary from the German castle-inspired Caviarterra, to the
classicism of Jeroboam and the design elegance of the 02
Lounge. Q334 rooms (23 suites 125,000 - 430,000Rbl,
311 single/double 35,000 - 51,000Rbl). VAT and breakfast
(1,700Rbl) not included. Visa support and registration free
of charge. Extra bed 1,500Rbl. PJHA6UFLG�
KDCW hhhhh
Upmarket
Assembleya Nikitskaya C-4, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya
12/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 933 50 01, www.
assambleya-hotels.ru. This is a lovely boutique hotel with
flawless window dressing. Luxurious bed covers that hold
just enough weight so you can sleep soundly and safely. The
all round comfort supplied here is guaranteed to soothe any
tired bones. Single rooms deserve a special mention. The
bed is large enough for two with enough space to do some
yoga as well. Bathrooms are economically designed, with
heated floors and robes. The top floor boasts attic rooms
with pretty gauze drapes. Q29 rooms (7 singles 7,900 -
8,900Rbl, 15 doubles 9,900 - 10,900Rbl, 4 suites 12,430
- 13,700Rbl, 3 apartments 15,000 - 16,500Rbl). Extra bed
1,900Rbl. Breakfast not included (500Rbl). Visa support
1,600Rbl. Registration free of charge. PHAUIL�
GKW hhhh
Courtyard by Marriott B-3, Voznesensky per. 7,
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.court-
yardmoscow.com. The hotel is tucked away on a quiet,
romantic side street at a 10-minute walk from the Kremlin
and it gives you the best of both worlds: the comfort of the
hotel’s peace and quiet, and the excitement of the acces-
sible, fast-paced downtown. The inside courtyard’s massive
glass roof radiates positive energy into the lobby. All guest
rooms are also very well lit and feature ultra comfy beds and
pillows. If you want a great view, ask for a room on one of
the top floors facing out toward the Kremlin or St. Andrew’s
Church. If you like to people watch, you’ll love a room with a
courtyard view. Q218 rooms (218 single/double 16,500 -
21,000Rbl). Breakfast (1,050Rbl) and VAT not included. Visa
support free (3,000Rbl cancellation fee), registration free.
PTJHAFLGKW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
hotels 23
Days Hotel Moscow at Mandarin Moscow
Residences Ul. Olhovskaya 23, MKomsomolskaya,
tel. +7 (495) 772 77 21, w w w.hotelmandarin.ru.
The Mandarin Residences is not to be confused with the
famous Mandarin Oriental group, this is an independent
Russian hotel of the four star class. The design is based
around first of all Mandarin fruits and second of all a
kind of plushy classicism which manifests itself in the
marble bathrooms and rococo settees. The rooms all
have different layouts depending where in the building
you are (some of the rooms are better suited to their
odd shapes than others), bu t are all uni ted by their
slightly queasy golden yellow colour schemes. The red
and black restaurant however is a stand out place for
lingering. Q 103 rooms (103 singles 6,350 - 13,550Rbl,
69 doubles 8,200 - 14,050Rbl). E xtra bed 2,000Rbl.
Visa support 1,200Rbl, registration free. PHAFL�
GKW hhhh
Holiday Inn Sushchevsky Ul. Sushchevsky Val
74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.
holidayinn.com. Like the other hotels belonging to this
international brand, the Holiday Inn Sushchevsk y has
high standards, enjoys close proximity to the metro and
accommodates guests in attractive and comfor table
rooms. A refreshing floral theme runs throughout, but
most noticeably in snazz y photo murals and the hotel’s
restaurant “Fleur.” E xecu tive rooms boast additional
comforts: robes, ironing boards and souped-up ameni-
ties and extra decorations. Access to the execu ti ve
loun ge (anoth er Holiday Inn standard) for business
meetings and/or breakfast is also included in these
rooms. Q 312 rooms (16 suites 30,720Rbl, 296 single/
double 16,000Rbl). Breakfast (890Rbl) and VAT (18%) not
included. Visa support and registratiojn free of charge.
PHA6UFLGKW hhhh
Katerina City F-7, Shluzovaya nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 795 24 44, www.katerinahotels.com. One
of the first business/conference hotels aimed at the foreign
market, the Katerina hotel may have a more simple look than
newer arrivals to the scene, but it makes up for everything
with its first class conference organisation. Things feel relaxed
and as if they are running like clock work here, and that’s not
just because your boss booked himself into one of the rooms
with an ensuite sauna. Nice extras include a good quality buffet
breakfast and free mini-bars (with a limited stock). Small rooms
are just that, while medium rooms feel noticeably more spa-
cious. They also have a brand new hotel with 260 rooms in the
leafy south of the city (Katerina Park, Kirovogradskaya ul. 11,
metro Prazhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 04 04). Q120 rooms (66
singles 12,600Rbl, 44 doubles 15,800Rbl, 10 suites 18,900Rbl).
Extra bed 4,000Rbl. Visa support and registration for free.
PHAUIFLGKDW hhhhh
August - September 2010
24 hotels
Eat with the Stars
Mushrooms at the Marriott
Through August the Flat Iron Bar and Roadhouse in the
Courtyard by Marriott Hotel
celebrates the arrival of the
mushroom season with a
special menu based around
chanterelles, probably the
world’s most famous and
best loved wild mushroom.
Chanterelles will be finding
themselves in all areas of
the menu from cold starters
to chanterelle cream soup with garlic croutons and chan-
terelle risotto with tarragon. In September apple season
begins and all kind of sweet and savoury apple dishes
will be filling out the new seasonal menu.
Baltschug summer terrace
The Hotel Baltschug Kempinski’s new summer terrace
Kranzler seems to have its finger well on the pulse of
the summer diner. Top of their new menu is a fresh ap-
proach to serving wine, with the wine list now including
an incredible 68 different wines available by the glass,
rather than only by the bottle. Accompanying the wine
are signature dishes like the lobster bisque with Arme-
nian brandy, Black Sea pot-au-feu with red onion and
Russian classics like blini with caviar, piroshki (pies) and
smoked sturgeon.
O2 goes to New York
The Ritz Carlton Hotel’s famous roof terrace with a view
to die for has gone for a Big Apple theme this year, both
in terms of decor and menu. The sun loungers are still
out there, but now you can sit back and relax with an
Americana inspired menu that includes US Prime T-bone
steaks, big burgers and cobb salad. On the drinks side
the Manhattan of course takes pride of place alongside
other creations like the vanilla vodka based New York
Cheesecake cocktail.
Marriott Royal Aurora Cafe Culture
The Marriott Royal Aurora is making great use of its
location on the elegant pedestrianised Stoleshniki
pereulok again this year with its Vicolo terrace. Build-
ing on last year’s success the cafe’s area has been
extended to provide space for eighty guests, while the
menu is aiming to please everyone. Breakfasts, light
lunches, snacks and casual dinners are all available and
the menu includes elements of Indonesian, Chinese,
British, Japanese and Tex-mex cuisines as well as the
popular kebab platter and prime rib eye steak. Mojitos,
Tom Collins, daiquiris and martinis plump out the cocktail
menu, while those who are off the alcohol can enjoy their
excellent homemade lemonades.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Novotel Moscow Centre Ul. Novoslobodskaya 23,
MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 40 00, www.
novotelmoscow.ru. The friendly and professional Novotel,
decked out in trademark blue and orange, is committed to
accommodating both business clientele and vacationers.
They have eight conference rooms including a popular
hall with a panoramic view on the top floor of the hotel’s
circular tower. Standard rooms are spacious and execu-
tive rooms even more so and they are all equipped with
free high-speed internet so business may always be at
the top of your agenda. Up to two children (under 16) can
stay free of charge in their parent’s room. The hotel is a
30-second walk to the metro station, which is 1 stop from
the Sheremetyevo-aeroexpress train terminus. Q 255
rooms (157 singles 10,000 - 25,000Rbl, 42 doubles
10,000 - 26,200Rbl, 56 suites 12,400 - 40,200Rbl). VAT
not included. Visa support 3,000Rbl (refundable deposit)
and registration free of charge. PTHA6UF�
GKW hhhh
Mid-range
Ibis Paveletskaya Ul. Shchipok 22, bld.1, MPavelets-
kaya, tel. 661 85 00, www.ibishotel.com. Budget hotels
like this are few and far between in Moscow. A completely
new building, with brand new rooms and facilities just ten
minutes from the train station and a short distance from the
very heart of Moscow. Those concerned abut their carbon
footprint as well as their wallets are welcomed with open
arms as are disabled travellers. Rooms are bright and func-
tional and the ones facing North are particularly large. With
the appearance and service attitude of an upmarket hotel,
this is a great budget option. Q147 rooms (147 single/
double 5,000Rbl). Extra bed (900Rbl). Breakfast (600Rbl)
and VAT not included. Registration and visa support free
(3,000Rbl cancellation fee). PA6UILGKW
hhhh
Izmailovo Gamma Delta Izmailovskoye shosse 71,
build. 4 GD, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 70
70, www.izmailovo.ru. The Izmailovo hotel complex
was specially built for the 1980 Moscow Olympics and
the four buildings together make it the largest in Europe.
The largest building, Gamma Delta, faces on to Moscow’s
biggest park Izmailova and is so rammed full of facilities
you would hardly ever need to leave the place! There are 6
restaurants, a huge sauna complex, bowling alleys, a giant
fitness centre, beauty salons, shops, tailors... All rooms
offer good value - even the standard rooms do not feel as
stuffy as you would expect whilst the business deluxe is
very high-tech and surprisingly spacious. Q1971 rooms
(131 singles 2,900 - 4,500Rbl, 28 suites 5,000 - 7,500Rbl,
1812 double 3,000 - 4,700Rbl). Breakfast (400Rbl) not
included. Registration free of charge. PHAUFL�
GKDCW hhh
Maxima Panorama Ul. Masterkova 4, MAvtozavod-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 788 72 72, www.maximahotels.
com. This freshly refurbished hotel should prove popular
with travellers on a budget who are looking for an upscale
three star. The rooms, which feature plasma TVs, shiny
new bathrooms and large beds look on a par with much
more expensive hotels and the location couldn’t be nearer
to the metro without actually being in the tunnel. Dining
facilities are not much to brag about but that panorama?
The Moscow river, skyscrapers and those glorious golden
domes are visible from all sides. Q123 rooms (6 singles
2,800 - 4,500Rbl, 117 doubles 5,060 - 6,750Rbl). Extra
bed 600Rbl. Visa support 1,000Rbl and registration free
of charge. PHALGKW hhh
moscow.inyourpocket.com
hotels 25
Sputnik Leninsky pr. 38, MLeninsky Prospect, tel. (+7)
Реклама
495 930 22 87, www.hotelsputnik.ru. This Soviet princess
has moved with the times and put some new jewels in her Rus-
sian tiara. There’s a lively basement bar and an Indian restaurant
on the 16th floor. Rooms vary. They all have standard amenities
and are wholesomely decorated. While the singles are apt to
recall one’s student days when one lived in a shoebox, they
are accordingly inexpensive. The pleasant décor in lux suites
will make you feel at home without making you feel like you’re
staying in someone elses. Q379 rooms (171 singles 4,400Rbl,
183 doubles 4,960Rbl, 24 suites 6,400 - 8,040Rbl). Breakfast
(370Rbl) and VAT not included. Extra bed 50% of the room’s
price. Registration free of charge. THA6LKW hhh
Hostels
Buddy Bear Hostel Smolenskiy bulvar 15, flat 13, MS-
molenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 06 16, www.bear-hostels.
com. This really is one for those on very tight budgets who
don’t mind the idea of very high-capacity and full dorm rooms
and late night drinking sessions with your new Russian buddies
in the common room. They have a sauna and jacuzzi that can
be hired out for 500Rbl per hour - although be aware that it
also has one of the hostel’s only two toilets attached to it. Yes,
that’s right, two toilets for 35 people - now there’s something to
make you think twice about that late night drinking session…
Enter through the arch, first door on the right, press 13 and
head to the fifth floor. Q4 rooms (36 dorm bed 550 - 850Rbl).
Extra bed 500Rbl. Breakfast (100Rbl) not included. Visa sup-
port 30USD, registration 750Rbl. PAILGKDW
Chocolate Hostel B-2, Degtyarnyy per. 15, bld. 1,
apartment 4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 971 20 46,
www.chocohostel.com. Travellers seeking a homely, family
atmosphere with a cool edge could do no better than coming
here. 22 beds are spread through a spacious and airy two level
flat. Modern bathrooms and an open plan kitchen complete
the impression that care has put into the decoration, while Serviced Apartments
the cup of fresh homemade hot chocolate on arrival should Four Squares Real Estate C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka
convince you that they care a lot about their guests too.Q5 32, bldg. 7, 3rd floor, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
rooms (1 triples 2,900Rbl, 1 quads 3,400Rbl, dorm bed 700 937 55 72, www.foursquares.ru. Four Squares is one of
- 750Rbl, 1 twin 2,200Rbl). Extra bed 500Rbl. Registration Moscow’s well-known leaders in serviced apartment rental.
500Rbl. JAGW To cater to both business and leisure guests, the company’s
apartments vary in price, room number, style and location.
Godzillas C-2, Bolshoy Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, Four Squares carefully selects and monitors the quality of
tel. (+7) 495 699 42 23, www.godzillashostel.com. Not all the properties. Their online apartment search engine is
only is it large and lively, but Godzillas also offers a host of bonus easy to use and very helpful for selection; all apartments are
features: original parquet floors, three kitchens, satellite tv in presented with pictures and a detailed description of ameni-
the common room and a washing machine. Dorm beds are in ties and handy facts such as walking distance to the metro
relatively spacious rooms. The immediate area is a little lacking and location highlights. All apartments include fully-serviced
in ready tourist attractions but the hostel is actually very well kitchens, weekly maid service, free high speed internet,
located, within a short walking distance to the centre. Apart free satellite TV with foreign-language channels, and flexible
from dorm facilities, they also have ten single rooms available. check-in/check-out times. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Prices
Registration services also provided. Q22 rooms (1 triples range between 4,000-7,500Rbl per night. Visa support 50€,
93US$, 65 dorm bed 16 - 28US$, 11 single/double 70US$). registration 35€. PAGW
Visa support 25-40USD, registration 600Rbl. Payment is in
Rubles with the price based on the exchange rates of the day Like Home A-6, Zubovskiy blvd. 21-23, off. 8, MPark
you arrive. INGW hh Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 223 34 52, www.likehome.
ru. Like Home has over 100 luxury serviced apartments
Trans-Siberian Hostel F-3, Barashevsky per. 12, in the city centre and is a good option for those seeking
MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 20 30, www.tshostel. more independence and privacy than a hotel can offer. All
com. Located in a quiet yet central location, this hostel is a fine apartments have been completely renovated by western
choice for those looking for a relaxation. The management’s standards. Like Home also offers visa and airport and train
cheery attitude immediately comes across in the entryway station transfer services. Apartments are serviced and
where the names of Russian cities are painted. The hostel equipped with modern amenities, towels and linens, cleaning
features a communal kitchen, two doubles, a male, female and service and fast internet. Their website showcases each
one eight-bed dorm. As the name suggests, they can help with place comprehensively so you know what you’re paying
planning and advice for your trans-siberian trip. Q5 rooms (2 for. QOpen 24 hour.147 rooms (147 apartments 3,720 -
doubles 2,200Rbl, 1 triples 2,800Rbl, 4 bed dorm 700Rbl, 8 6,250Rbl). Minimum two night stay. Registration 1,200Rbl.
bed dorm 625Rbl). Visa support 30USD, registration 500Rbl. Visa support 35USD. PAGW
moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
26 Restaurants
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service,   five-star fine dining  and hot dog snack
vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend
to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to
book in advance. Tip for good service only - around ten percent
is considered fair. Prices listed in brackets indicate the
average price of a main course.
Russian
1-2-3 Cafe B-3, Pushkinskaya pl. 5, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 70 77, 1-2-3cafe.rosinter.ru. Basic
cafe chain fare serving up standard Russian classics like blini,
borsch and mayonaise salads as well as coffees and teas for
those on the go. The 1-2-3 idea comes from the option to
upgrade your main with the addition of a garnish and then a
drink for a fixed price. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
- 06:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTASW
Bochonok E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 24, bld 3, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 28. This romantic cellar restau-
rant sends you back to medieval times, where lords gnawed
on drumsticks as big as two fists and drank beer straight
from the barrel. Russian soups, stews and shasliki (shish
kebabs) are prepared and grilled on an open fire. The only
thing non-Russian about Bochonok is the friendly service and
the beer, which is mostly imported. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(500Rbl). PALEX
Cafe Margarita B-2, Ul. Malaya Bronnaya 28, MMaya-
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 65 34, www.cafe-margarita.
ru. Located right near Patriarch’s Ponds, this restaurant draws
its name and theme from Mikhail Bulgakov’s masterpiece
“The Master and Margarita.” Trusty Russian culinary classics
like blini, borshch and pelmeni are the order of the day. It’s all
fresh and homely with nothing overdone. At night there are
live performances by local musicians. Given the somewhat
cramped floorspace, the cafe makes for a friendly and fun
night out. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl). PJAESW
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
B Outside seating M Nearest station
R Internet Sports transmission
Moscow In Your Pocket
Grabli D-5, Ul. Pyatnizkaya 27, MNovokuznetskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 545 08 30, www.grably.ru. Open space,
natural light and hanging plants abound in this little Russian
garden of eden, which easily puts you in a chipper mood. Food
self-served buffet style, so you can walk around and choose
what you want for yourself. From the left of the entrance, you
will pass the salads and juices. The hot meals and breakfast
section are towards the back. The food is wholesome, freshly
prepared and ought to still be hot by the time you sit down,so
long as the queue to pay at the end isn’t too long. Q Open
10:00 - 23:00. (150Rbl). PJNGXS
Lucien Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg 1, MProspekt Mira,
tel. (495) 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. This elegant
Russian restaurant is named after Lucien Olivier, the French
inventor of the famous Russian Olivier salad. Here the salad
comes in its heavenly original version, fresh crayfish or game
and juicy vegetables with only a sprinkling of dill…and that’s
just the start. The flawless Russian food on offer here,
harks back to the pre-Soviet times of rich tastes and luxuri-
ous ingredients, while the impeccable service is positively
stately. The atmosphere is akin to a posh Victorian parlour
filled with crystal glasses, soft antique furnishings and the
odd palm, making this a wonderful and romantic foray into
historic Russian cuisine. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (800Rbl).
PTAEBXSW
Mari Vanna A-3, Spiridonyevskiy per 10a, MPush-
kinskaya, tel. 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru.
Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as
the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house
and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With
a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be
unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on tradi-
tional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni and
pireogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old
(but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mind-
blowing, just plain good and filling but the service and
homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for
the kids and the odd family pet trotting around certainly
make this a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Q Open
09:00 - 24:00. (600Rbl). PAGS
Muu Muu A-4, Ul. Arbat 45/24, bld.1, MSmolenskaya,
tel. (+7) (499) 241 13 64, www.cafemumu.ru. A popular
chain of cheerful and cheap cow themed eateries. It is self
service here, so be prepared to queue. Dotted around the
city it’s a good place to “graze” away an hour or two. The
one on Old Arbat street has a fake life size cow outside, pre-
senting you with yet another photo opportunity for everyone
back home to laugh at. Q Open 10:00 - 23:00. (200Rbl).
PTJAGBXSW
Na Melnitse (At the Mill) E-1, Ul. Sadovaya-Spass-
kaya 24, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 625 88 90,
www.namelnitse.ru. Let the door swing shut behind you:
You’ve stepped into a Russian village scene, with a work-
ing water mill, a carp pond and peasants as waiters. The
latter wander around offering up their services, but unlike
real peasants, these men are dressed in fine tailored attire
and haven’t been rolling around in haystacks. The food is
strictly Russian: meat, game, fish, stuffed Russian pies,
mushroom dishes, scrumptious mors (a bitter berry drink)
and mayonnaise salads. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl).
PTAULEBXS
zaftrak = breakfast
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Oblomov D-7, 1-y Monyetchikovskiy per 5, MDobrynin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www.restsindikat.
com. Named after the fat, lazy gourmant who was the hero of
Goncharnov’s novel by the same name, this romantic place is
styled like a Russian country house with various sitting rooms
with fireplaces, verandas and portrait filled dining halls. The staff
also wear traditional dress and greet you in old Russian. The Rus-
sian food on offer is beautifully presented and lovingly made and
comes in huge portions. We were particularly impressed with the
salads which were a step above the usual pickles with mayonaise
and the little pies which taste just like babushka makes them.
QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (800Rbl). PTAIES
Snegiri F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 43, MKurskaya, tel. (+7)
495 544 59 40, www.total-group.ru. Snegiri offers up
the traditional Russian deal, with a twist. The twist is not
always as successful as you may hope. How about some
rice pudding with your steamed Siberian fish? Thought not.
But when they stick to the classics like borsch and pelmeni
(without cheese baked over it), they are doing quite fine. The
atmosphere would be delightful, if they didn’t insist on playing
Russian retro music full blast from all sides. Let’s hope it’s all
a work in progress. Q (700Rbl).
Stolovaya 57 D-4, Gum Department Store, 3rd floor, 3rd
line, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43.
Russia’s love affair with retro lives on at this inexpensive Soviet-
style cafeteria. In quite a suprising location, meshed between
GUM’s designer boutiques, this quaint little nook provides all the
classics of Russian cafe dining. Meat cutlets, beef stroganoff and
olivier and vinegret salads are among the most popular as is
selyodka pod shuboi (pickled herring and beetroot). All are great
choices for mayonnaise lovers. The cafe also makes sandwiches.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (250Rbl). PJAGSW
Teremok D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 2/38, bldg 1, MNo-
vokuznetskaya, www.teremok.ru. Worship at the throne
of Teremok - the pancake or blini kings. Although it is strictly
fast food, the blini are assembled as you order them and
there is a wide variety including the Ilya Murometz, a popular
concoction of boiled pork, mushrooms and cheese and the
email (mushrooms in cream). They also do different porridge
dishes, an awesome fish soup (ukha) and have beer on tap.
There are also many takeaway Teremok stands dotted around
the city and a restaurant branch in okhotny ryad shopping
centre opposite the Kremlin. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. (150Rbl).
Yolki Palki D-3, Neglinaya ul. 8/10, MKuznetskiy most,
tel. 495 628 55 25, www.elki-palki.ru. Aimed at the tourist
market, this slightly cheesy Russian eatery packs in both Russians
and foreigners alike. They come here for the good value meals,
the staff mincing around in traditional costume and that aromatic
smell of shashlik from behind the grill. Sit under the plastic forest
canopy (somehow this is oddly appealing), while filling up on an
all-you-can-eat plate from the buffet wagons or order something
from the menu. Note that items on the menu have noticeably small
portions. Has over 50 locations including one at Domeodedevo
airport and one on Arbat ul. 16/2, bldg. 3. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (250Rbl). PTABS
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 27
Top five shashliks
As it is the height of summer and In Your Pocket currently
doesn’t have any vegetarian editors, we’ve been out feast-
ing on meat to bring you what we think are our top five
shashliks in Moscow.
Chito-Ra Ul. Kazakova 10, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
265 78 76. Chito Ra is a basic place filled with locals who
are the key to the happy, hearty atmosphere: they don’t
even need the menu to order. Shashlik (shish kebabs)
come only in pork, or maybe you want it in a lavash wrap.
However, when you spend all your time grilling just one
kind of meat, it ought to be good. And it is. The pork has
been licked by the firey flames and is coated in a crispy
fried seasoning. And with three dining rooms, including
the non-smoking covered terrace with fairy lights, you will
find yourself right at home with the boys from Georgia.
The restaurant is located near the Gogol Theatre and
just down the road from Club Ikra.Q Open 12:00 - 22:00
(200Rbl). PNGXS
Noah’s Ark (Noev Kovcheg) E-4, Maly Ivanovsky
pereulok 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17,
www.noevkovcheg.ru. Inviting and relaxing, after ten
years this Ark is still a refuge Noah never envisaged. With
an elaborate and traditional wooden interior and subtly
lit with warm lighting, the seating is cosy while allowing
enjoyment of the space. The menu offers some interest-
ing traditional dishes as well as some exciting twists: try
the grilled aubergine mousse!Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(700Rbl). PTALSW
Shashlik in Izmailovsky park At the entrance
to Izmailovsky park (opposite Partizanskaya metro
station), MPartizanskaya. As you can see from the im-
mense line snaking its way out the door, the pork shashlik
here is arguably the best in the city. Grilled to perfection
on coals just out front, these succulent chunks of meat
are snatched away by the armful by a faithful public. Meat
can get pretty expensive here, with shashlik being charged
per 100grams (about one piece), but you’ll regret it if you
under order and have to face waiting again. Surroundings
are basic to say the least, but who cares when the meat
is this good?! Q (350Rbl).
Shashlik u Nikitskikh vorot B-4, Kalashniy per. 9,
MArbatskaya. A place where Moscow‘s regular working
class come to enjoy good cheap food in basic (check out
that Soviet style faux wood panelling!) and highly atmo-
spheric (if smokey) surroundings. Local cops chow down on
kebabs at the standing only tables of the first room, next
to the bar where orders have to be placed and collected.
This place is very popular in the afterwork hours and it‘s
all with good reason, the shashlik is grilled to perfection
and the complete lack of pretension is a definite breath
of fresh air. No English.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (150Rbl).
Suliko D-6, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 42/2, bldg. 1,
MPolyanka, tel. (499) 238 28 88, www.suliko.
ru. The huge shashlik here are worth the roubles and
the same is certainly true of the very authentic tasting
cheese bread (khachapuri). The live Georgian singing
is an interesting cultural experience if a little loud, but it
does cover up the sound of the annoying water feature
that is the centre point of a restaurant vaguely designed
to resemble a village in Georgia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(250Rbl). PA
August - September 2010
28 Restaurants Restaurants 29

Russian and European From Russia... with Food

Cafe Pushkin B-3, Tverskoy bul. 26/5, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. This aristocratic Traditional Russian food is rich and stodgy peasant-fare
restaurant, located near Pushkin Square in downtown Moscow from the village. If you are wondering what that green grass
is a place you won’t forget! Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s stuff is, it’s dill (ukrop), the white stuff is almost always
rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the mayonnaise. Here are the classics...
city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European
standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the Bliny
roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine is Bliny (pancakes) are an indispensable part of Russia’s
mouth watering and served in large portions. On the first floor culinary tradition. Eaten in huge quantities throughout
there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the the year, any Russian restaurant has at least a few
Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar. If you varieties on the menu. Bliny are typically served as
want to make a good impression, bring your business partner an entrée with ham (vetchinoy), caviar (ikra), cheese
here. Q Open 24hrs. (1,000Rbl). PTJAEBXSW
Caucasian/Central Asian (syr), or as a dessert with vareniye (chunky, sweet fruit
preserve), or honey (myod) and tvorog (Russian version
Ded Pikhto E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 37, MChistye Art Chaikhona B-2, Tryokhprudniy per 11/13, MPush- of cottage cheese).
prudy, tel. (+7) 495 915 83 83, www.ginzaproject. kinskaya, tel. 495 699 14 06. This cute little place claims
ru. The march of the anti-glamour, homestyle restaurants
continues. Old photographs of families, wooden dressers,
to have possibly the best plov (pilau) in Moscow and although
we can’t claim to have tried every plov out there, we can say
Soups
flowery table clothes, cute tableware and the like make up the there’s certainly truth in the statement - especially given that Russians are big on soups especially borshch. Actually
interior decoration of this little house. The staff wear jeans there are more than five different kinds to choose from. They borshch is said to come from Ukraine. Borshch is chock
and pinafores that your granny would love and hence simply also do other good Uzbek dishes like lagman (meat and noodle Khodzha Nasreddin v Khive F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 10, full of beetroot and shchi is full of cabbage. Both can be
can’t be taken to be mean or frightening. As for the food it’s soup) and Somsa (stuffed breads) and their great selection of bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 04 44, pretty good or the most awful dishwater you ever came
reasonable in every way, low in grease and should please your eastern teas come served in huge Central Asian pottery. Filled www.nasreddinhiva.ru. Khodzha what? Allow us please to across. Solyanka comes with various unknown meat bits
wallet as well as your stomach. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, with lamps, beautiful wall hangings and arabesque tiling, the translate it for you - welcome to ‘Nasreddin the Wise in the city chopped up with olives and a slice of lemon while Ukha is
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (350Rbl). PTABXSW place looks as warm and cosy as the staff and food make of Khiva‘. Khiva is of course a silk road gem and Nasreddin water based fish soup. Russians like to dollop a spoonful
you feel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (400Rbl). PTAESW a popular wiseman and humorist from medieval legend. The of sour cream (smetana) into their soups.
Sisters Grimm C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, MChekhovs- restaurant is set out as an elaborate remake of the silk road
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 628 89 75, www.sgrimm.ru. This Dzhon Dzholi B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, blgd. 1, MPush- city, complete with minarets, little hideaways behind grand Salads
restaurant isn’t as childish as the novels it is named after, kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.ginzaproject. carved doors and birds in cages. Sounds tacky, but actually Everything here comes with mayonnaise, the national dress-
although with crayons for drawing on the tables and piles of ru. Dzhon dzholi is another exponent of that concentrated it is very inviting. The food on offer is an excellent introduction ing. Olivier salad, the New Year salad, comes with potatoes,
board games, they are getting there. The layout feels like a casualness of the country kitchen that is all the rage in Moscow to Central Asian cuisine, from the delicious pies and flamed pickled cucumbers, carrot and spam ham. Hmmm sounds
friend’s cosy cottage in the country with various parlours, liv- right now - and this time they even go so far as to install a huge meat, to the exotic plov (pilau) for which the region is famous. tasty? How about Selyodka pod shuboy – the winner of the
ing room or a kitchen to choose from. Service is delightful (yes stone oven. The reason you really come here is to eat though, Their eatsern tea selection is also superb and although some award for the strangest name, ‘Herring under a Fur Coat’
they smile!) and the menu has enough for everyone from light and for anyone new to Georgian food this is a great introduction. dishes take a while to make, they are usually worth the wait. consists of Herring, and then potato and followed by beet-
salads to their huge juicy burger. If you’re here in the evening, Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course top the bill, but they Kids are well catered for with their own playroom. The only root. Mayonnaise also features in this one too.
don’t miss a visit to their neighbour Gogol. Q Open 12:00 - also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too thing wrong with this place is the weird noises coming from
24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. (300Rbl). PAEBXSW like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and chicken chkmeruli (garlic the hidden bird cages. You do get used to it in the end though. Pelmeni / Vareniki
chicken) which should excite the taste buds. Their huge covered QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (500Rbl). PTALEB Pelmeni is your dinner standby. The student’s favourite are
Menu Decoder summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). PABSW
little dumplings stuffed with meat. And very chewy meat it is
Bread Хлеб Khleb
American too. They make a great winter snack and are the staple diet
of your average Russian bachelor. Vareniki is the version
Potatoes Картофель Kartofel Elardgy B-5, Gagarinskiy per. 15a, MKropotkinskaya, tel. American Bar and Grill A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya- for vegetarians being filled with potato, cheese or cabbage
Nuts Орехи Orekhy (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.ru. This sophisti- Yamskaya 2, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) or even tvorog (that cottage cheese again). The jam and
Rice Рис Ris cated and elegant concept promises home style Georgian food. 495 250 95 25, ambar.rosinter.ru. You know how fruit versions are for dessert.
Chicken Курица Kuritsa Looking through the menu you’ll find some dishes you’ve prob- tourists travelling to America often talk about how big
Fish
Meat
Рыба
Мясо
ryba
Myaso
ably never heard such as chkmemili and cuch-machi plus the
usual khacaupuri (cheese bread), shashliks and kebabs. The
the servings are there? How they had to split a salad
between two people? This is like this place. The casual Caucasian cuisine
Pork Свинина Svinina food is hearty enough without swimming in grease although easygoing atmosphere, country music soundtrack and One of the unquestionable pluses of Moscow’s Soviet
Liver Печень Pechen why the drinks cost almost as much as the meat is baffling. big servings are American dining staples. Here they do past is the sprinkling of restaurants serving cuisine from
Russian Русская Russkaya Nevertheless the real reason to come here is to soak up the American style and Tex-Mex (which is American as well). former Soviet republics. Of these the most popular both
cuisine кухня kukhnia atmosphere - just like a posh southern country estate, complete The interior is mostly wooden but not the waitresses. with locals and visitors is probably Georgian, but there
Dumplings Пельмени Pelmeni with classy covered terraces, a private courtyard with rocking Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 59 (metro Taganskaya) and ul. are also Armenian, Uzbek, Azeri, and Kazakh places, as
Caviar Икра Ikra chair and a petting zoo filled with white rabbits and a baby goat, Kirovogradskaya 14 (metro Yuzhnaya). Q Open 24hrs. well as generalised “Caucasian” cuisine which appears
Meat patties Котлеты Kotlety awww! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl). TAEBXSW (650Rbl). PTJALEBXSW all over the place. These cuisines provide a dash of spice
Pickled Селёдка Selyodka and colour compared with often stodgy Russian dishes.
Herring Khacha-puri B-3, Bolshoy Gnezdnikovskiy per. 10, MTver- Beverly Hills Diner E-2, Ul. Sretenka 1, MSreten- Although often characterised as quite meat-heavy - a
Stuffed Голубцы Golubtsy skaya, tel. 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. An inexpensive sky bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 625 42 21, www.thediner. staple of Caucasian cuisine is the fabulous shashliky
cabbage little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual ru. Another fat slice of americana that runs 24 hours a (kebabs) which appear on every menu - food from this
Panackes Блины Blini plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft day powered by American smiles, huge burgers and giant part of the world is also a good option for vegetarian visi-
Caucasian Кавказская Kavkaskaya style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it breakfasts. The interior is straight out of the movie Grease tors to the city, making use of the vegetables and pulses
Cuisine кухня kukhnia is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve complete with a chrome bar, red vinyl seats and impossily native to that part of the world. Dishes you will typically
Cheese Хачапури Khachapuri you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will cute and friendly Sandra Dee waitresses in their little 1950s find include Georgian khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread),
Bread always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes outfits. Burgers are two hand, ten napkin affairs and the satsivi (chicken in walnut sauce), khinkali (giant meat-
Shish Kebab Шашлык Shashlik filled dumplings) and lobio (red bean paste with herbs
accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed whole atmosphere, complete with jukebox, is just begging
Spicy sauce Аджика Adzhika and pomegranate seeds), Uzbek plov (rice with lamb)
down nicely with homemade fruit drinks. A good choice if you you to start reciting lines from a Tarrantino film. Although
Bean stew Лобио Lobio
don’t have time to sit through three hours of kitsch and more let’s face it, this is still not Starlite Diner. Q Open 24hrs. and lagman (thick noodle and meat soup and Armenian
Chicken Сациви Satsivi
in cream substantial traditions elsewhere. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Sat, (350Rbl). PTASW dolma (stuffed grape-leaves).
Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (200Rbl). PTAEBSW

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

30 Restaurants
Starlite Diner A-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 16,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 02 46, www.
starlite.ru. No, the girls couldn’t be in shorter skirts, but
no, they are not wearing roller skates. Although if they
were, they wouldn’t be out of place. The food is a little
underwhelming, but that’s not the reason for coming here.
It’s most certainly American and those red booths are
real - the only thing Russian here are the electric sockets.
You’ll hear more English spoken in this diner than anywhere
else in Moscow, which adds to the otherwordly experience.
Also at Korovy Val 9a (metro Otyabryska). Q Open 24hrs.
(600Rbl). PTABSW
T.G.I. Friday’s B-2, Nastasyinsky per. 2 (Tverskaya
18), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 24 97,
www.tgifridays.ru. If you’re looking for a place to relax
with a gang of friends, for a place where the wait staff
wear striped uniforms, novelty hats and smile often, this
place is for you. Not only are the margaritas enormous
(two hands please), but this America-devoted beer house
is full of life and makes satisfyingly good food. Burgers
are sizeable (you also need two hands) and come with
seasoned chips, although the beer was nothing to write
home about. But since when was America the brewing
capital of the world? 12 other locations including ul.
Novy Arbat 14 (metro Arbatskaya) and ul. Zemlyanoy
val 33 (metro Kurskaya) which has summer terraces.
Q Open 11:00 - 01:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (500Rbl).
PTJAXSW
Bakeries
Le Pain Quotidien C-3, Kamergersky per. 5/6,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru.
This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its
rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow. Long
wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls, Belgian
tartines (open-face sandwiches), salads heaving with
greenery and cheese boards are on offer. Unfortunately
there are no Belgian prices here, just Moscow ones. Also
at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala,
1st and 2nd floor, metro Kievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 229 66
74, ul. Piatnitskaya 6/1, bldg. 1, metro Tretyakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 951 91 30, ul. Lesnaya 5, metro Beloruss-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 97 07. For delivery call (+7) 495
649 70 50, min order 3,500Rbl. Q 24 hrs. (350Rbl).
PJABSW
Volkhonsky Kaiser E-3, Ul. Maroseika 4/2, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 721 14 42, www.wolkonsky.com.
Delightful French patisserie cafe with a bright pink interior
covered with porcelain plates, cups and saucers that you
just want to take home. Mouthwatering sweet treats and
savoury bakes. Take away also available as well as bakery
counter with fresh loaves. Breakfast in this intimate yet ener-
getic haven is a must. While the Maroseika location has the
repose of a drawing room, their outlet near Mayakovskaya
(ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 2/46) is like a bakery free-for-all. Its
counter service for starters and then it is like musical stools
as to whether or not you can get a spot to sit at the large
communal table. Either that or hole up in the window seat
with the bright covered cushions (only for those who practise
yoga). There is a wonderful irony that you pay over the odds
for a cappucino and then need to sit on top of strangers
to drink it but somehow you learn to live with it. Also has
a branch at ul. Sretenka 27/29 (metro Sukharevskaya)
with a summer terrace. Q Open 08:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 01:00. Coffee and cake 400Rbl. PJAS
Moscow In Your Pocket
Asian
Belyi Zhuravle A-7, Frunzenskaya nab. 14/1, MPark
Kultury, tel. 495 775 06 56, www.beliy-juravl.ru. Possibly
the best Korean food in Moscow served up in huge portions.
Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including
kimchi) are provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive.
The soups here are outstanding and can compromise a meal
in themselves and if you are with a large group it is well worth
asking what kind of large hotpots and barbeques they have for
sharing. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can make it dif-
ficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean cuisine. QOpen
12:00 - 23:00. (600Rbl). PALSW
Chi E/D-3, Lyubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 621 35 52, www.restomix.ru. Democratically
priced Asian food and a great terrace. A state of the art wifi
system, means that as soon as you place an order at your
table the kitchen know about it and can get about firing it up in
some hair-raising wok display in the open kitchen. These dishes,
particularly the dim sum, really taste close to what they serve in
China and arrive piping hot at your table in minutes. Be warned
though, no matter how tempting your spring rolls look, wait
at least for a minute to save yourself a burnt mouth. QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl). PTAEBSW
Dai Sushi C-3, Kamergerskiy per. 5/7, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 629 10 60, www.daisushi.ru. This cheap and
cheerful sushi chain has some of the cheapest Japanese food
in town, and for the low price the quality is up there with the
other similar chains. Although the noodle dishes are good the
portions are small, so if hungry it’s best to bump things up
with a soup and perhaps some sushi rolls in either 4 or 8 roll
sets. The place is small and service quick, so don’t be afraid
if it looks quite full, turn over is fast. In summer their terrace on
the street is heaving with people. Also at ul. Zemlyanoy val 7
(metro Kurskaya). QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (300Rbl).
Darbars Leninsky pr. 38, Hotel Sputnik (16th floor),
MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7) 495 930 29 25, www.
darbar.ru. Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky pros-
pekt is not the most central place in the city, but it’s worth the
trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for! Darbars serves
traditional southern Indian cuisine. It is tastefully decorated
in a minimal style, but we have to add here a special mention
to the staff who on a recent visit were unfortuantely beyond
slow.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (800Rbl). PTALXSW
Druzhba Ul. Novoslobodskaya 4, MNovoslobodskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 973 12 34. This place is wildly popular with
the local Chinese community (always a good sign) and packed
every day. Service is swift (let’s hope that’s because it was
a wok and not a microwave…) and friendly. The portions are
huge and if there is something specifically Chinese that you
want such as a hot pot or spicy egg noodle soups, they can
probably whip something up for you. Indeed most of what you
get here tastes exciting and authentic - must be all that MSG.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). PNS
Maharaja E-3, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 (entrance from Staro-
sadsky per.), MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44,
www.maharaja.ru. Genuine Indian hospitality. From the
moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of
a Maharaja in this well-established Indian restaurant, which
is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge
and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and
tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If
you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even
the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every
penny. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (750Rbl). PTAUXS
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Mama Tao D-6, Ul. Pyatintskaya 56/1, MDobrynin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 42 49, www.ginzaproject.
ru. This is a Chinese restaurant that reflects new Chinese
fashion, kitschy gold and red décor with smiling cats is out and
bohemian 19th Century paintings and simple furniture is in.
The dim sum is very good as are the good value noodle soups
and the caramelised fruits are an excellent addition, although
some of the other dishes may leave you feeling hungry. The
open kitchen means that the place smells delicious, but can
also get a bit steamy. Our favourite aspect of Mama Tao
though has to be the crazy kung fun tea ceremony - it has
to be seen to be believed. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (350Rbl).
PTAEBSW
Mao Bar and Restaurant C-6, Red October Chocolate
Factory, Bolotnaya nab. 3/4, bldg 2, MKropotkin-
skaya, tel. (+7) 985 991 04 24, restaurantmao.ru.
Currently the best place to eat in the very happening Red
October factory complex. Ride up in the old industrial lift,
or take the stairs if it appears to not be working and set
yourself up in the dark interior, or better yet the gargantuan
roof terrace. The menu here mixes up plenty of great asian
inspired dishes, some of the best of which include the
singapore noodles, spring rolls and Mao lamb. By night a
bar atmosphere takes over with dozens of Moscow’s pretty
young things turning up for drinks and nibbles. QOpen 14:00
- 02:00. (500Rbl). PABSW
Menza C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, MChekhovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 32 40, www.menza-lapsha.ru.
Come here for good Japanese noodles at rock bottom prices.
Order your meal by ticking the boxes on the order forms and
then handing them into the waiter. Disco tunes play, and your
food arrives in minutes. It doesn’t feel like a fast food joint
(you don’t get hot towels at McDonald’s for instance) but our
meal came in around ten minutes. Warehouse loft location,
friendly service and Japanese beer which is light on the fizz
and the roubles makes this place even more democratic. Also
at ul. Rusakovskaya 22 (metro Sokolniki), tel. 499 269 64
44. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat 11:00 - 06:00. (200Rbl).
PTJAS
Shanti F-2, Myasnitskiy proezd 2/1, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 783 68 68, www.shanti.ru. The unusual mu-
sic somewhere between trance and whale sound, combined
with the Buddha statues, dragon motifs and dark lighting,
can make this place feel very much like some kind of odd spa
retreat. The menu offers only foodie forms of wellness though.
Best described as Asian fusion, they have loads of different
spring rolls, imaginative wok dishes as well as soups, sushi
and noodle stir fries to name but a few. If you find it a little
expensive try the equally excellent, but more relaxed ‘shanti
buffet’ next door or come on a weekday for the business
lunch.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 05:00. (450Rbl). PABSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 31
Cafes and Coffee Houses
Aldebaran D-6, Bol. Tomayevskiy per 4, bldg. 1, MTre-
tyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 62 68, www.acafe.ru.
This elegant upscale cafe is a popular place for business
discussions, given that it’s quiet, there are lots of private
booths and an impressive (if expensive) menu. Service can
be hit and miss but the art nouveau décor, large windows and
excellent salads go far towards helping you ignore the fact
that the waitresses are just chatting amongst themselves.
Aldebaran’s location and tranquil atmosphere also make it
a great place to load up on breakfast before taking on the
Tretyakov gallery. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
24:00. (600Rbl). PTASW
Art Lebedev E-3, ul. Myasnitskaya 22/1, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 74 73, store.artlebedev.
com. Much larger and sparsely painted than its cosier
and more eclectic looking sister establishment at Nikitsky
vorota, the real draw of this café is the mouth-watering
cakes - everything on display is usually baked fresh that
day and you may decide to skip looking at the menu and
just choose with your eyes instead. They also have nice
smoothies and juice drinks, good vegetarian options and
the free dates on the table are a nice bonus. Don’t forget
to visit the shop downstairs selling crafty bits and bobs.
QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl).
Bosco Cafe D-4, Krasnaya pl. 3 (GUM department
store), MPl. Revolutsii, tel. (+7) 495 620 31 82,
www.bosco.ru. Just like in those famous Italian squares
such as St. Mark’s, you are paying over the odds here, for
a café with a one of a kind view across Red Square. The
watery coffee and annoying MTV background music only
go further to prove that you are paying for the eye candy,
not what turns up on your table. Regardless it’s always
an experience to show off later about when back home
and if you feel like throwing away even more money, head
into the designer Russian sports shop Bosco attached.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. A
Coffee Mania A-3, Pl. Kudrinskaya, 46/54, Chai-
kovsky Cultural Center, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7)
495 721 83 77, www.coffeemania.ru. Slick, pricey,
popular with business people and mum’s with prams
who appreciate the upmarket quality and the fact that
this coffee house is run with a business like efficiency.
The smart waitstaff all wear the black uniform of the
informed intellectual worker. Wooden furniture creates
the feeling of a well worn cafe while the orange décor
takes care of the hip factor. Has 10 other locations
including Domodedovo airport and ul. Bolshaya Nikits-
kaya 13 (metro Arbatskaya). Q Open 24 hrs (200Rbl).
PTASW
Lyudi Kak Lyudi E-4, Solyansky proezd 4/1, MKitai
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 12 01, www.ludikakludi.
com. Feeding and watering hole for the inner city groovy
set, this is where your local Johnny Depp lookalikes come
to imbibe cigarette fumes and caffeine. Desperately small
and packed with atmosphere, the staff make you want to
come back again and again. Food is served without fanfare
just like the counter service. The name is hard to translate
and opens up questions about the infamous Russian soul,
but is philosophically saying, people are people. Think
about that as they make you a fresh juice cocktail. Q
Open 8:00 - 23:00, Thu 8:00 - 03:00, Fri 8:00 - 6:00, Sat
11:00 - 6:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (250Rbl). PJNXS
August - September 2010
32 Restaurants
Editor’s Pick: Budvar
Dracula’s Nightmare
By Louise Whitworth
Despite having been around for years, the Czech
restaurant and ‘business club’ Budvar is still probably
the most authentic Czech place in Moscow in terms
of food and beer. As regards interior though they have
thankfully skipped the gothic beer hall look and gone for
a Russian country home vibe instead. Having trekked
along the Moscow river in blazing heat for half an hour,
finally arriving at Budvar, we were delighted to find that
their dacha style summer ‘terrace’ was both shady and
well ventilated. Filled with random dacha bric a brac like
old pots, bicycles and flower pots, the outside factor
is covered by the fact that all the wooden shuttered
windows are open, while old fans on the ceiling ensure
the air circulates well. Settling in to our whicker couches
the obvious starter had to be a good big Czech beer,
which unbeknownst to us also came with a large plate
of complimentary beer snacks (fried bread, garlic and
mustard). This snack plate would have been enough to
replace a starter but we had already ordered a salad
and some pork fat too. The avocado and salmon salad,
was not a great accompaniment to the beer and garlicky
snacks, but my colleague pointed out that on a hot
sweaty day, it was a good choice and that despite fish
and avocado not really being particularly Czech they
pulled it off well. My salo (cured pork fat), was exactly
what I had hoped for. Neither too greasy, nor too salty
it actually was a lot lighter than expected, as the slices
were wafer thin and devoid of gristle or meat. Certainly
one of the best plates of salo I’ve eaten in a long time.
For mains we opted for a pork leg and the sausage pan,
both of which dishes we had been warned take a lot of
time to prepare. The pork leg was much better than
we’ve eaten elsewhere, but still the meat was not the
most perfect slab imaginable. My
Interior: 9.5 sausages also suffered the same
Food: 7 problem. They were rich in terms
Service: 7.5 of spice, and seasoning and I cer-
Atmosphere: 8 tainly enjoyed my side of cabbage
Cost: 2388 Rbl. and yet more garlic, but the meat
itself felt it was lacking in that extra tender, juicyness.
Already clearly over-watered and over-fed, we decided to
skip dessert (since when is the Czech Republic famous
for its cakes anyway). Fortunately when the bill finally
came, we found that there were more than a few sticks
of chewing gum accompanying it, as at the final count
our meal had included no less than 6 bulbs of garlic.
Take that Dracula!
Budvar, Kotlenicheskaya nab. 33, MTaganskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 915 15 98, budvar-rest.ru
Moscow In Your Pocket
Sushi Rumba C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7 (second floor),
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 988 08 75. This great
concept really deserves some good custom. The service
is smooth, the cocktails well-made and for once the sushi
menu is pretty exciting. We particularly enjoyed the samba
rolls with sweet chilli salsa and were happy to see the ubiq-
uitous ‘Philadelphia roll’ ousted in favour of more imaginative
combinations. Those seeking to escape Moscow’s love of
cold fish should also be able to find something appetising
in the Brazilian grill menu. In the evenings DJs arrive to try
to get the dance floor going. With more than ample space,
huge windows for people watching and a clever layout, it can
be as discreet or wild as you wish. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.
(250Rbl). PTAESW
Beer Restaurants
G l a v P i v To r g D - 3 , U l . B o l s h a y a Ly u b a n k a 5 ,
MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 624 19 96, www.
glavpivtorg.ru. This restaurant, located not far from
the former KGB headquarters, Lyubanka, cannot fail to
impress, and not only because of the bank-style interior
with green lamps and the possibility to eat some long
forgotten Soviet-style snacks with your beer. Rumour
has it that in this building, former part of the Ministry
for Foreign Affairs, the Molotov-Ribbentrop pact was
signed. If this is of no interest to you, there is still lots to
offer, with good food, and of course good local brews. In
the evenings there is live music and dancing. For more
privacy, head upstairs. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (500Rbl).
PAEBSW
Kolbasoff Ul. Taganskaya 21, MTaganskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 995 23 33, kolbasoff.ru. This chain of kolbasi
(sausages) won’t let hungry and thirsty people down. Offer-
ing eight different kinds of sausage dishes, vegetarian beer
lovers would do well to stay away from here. For the rest of
the carnivore world, Kolbassof is a merry beer restaurant
chain with eight locations around Moscow. There are super
big portions for couples or groups of 4. Gulp everything down
with the home brewed Kolbassa beer. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(450Rbl). PAEXSW
Pilsener A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 1, MMaya-
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 20 23, www.total-group.
ru/pilsner. If the lengthy queues are anything to go by, you
will need to show up early or book to avoid disappointment.
The house draft beer is not only affordable but drinkable.
Indeed, the arm muscles of the staff must be quite sizable
to carry platters heaving with spiced meats and other
Czech specialities. Enormous portions of sausages, pigs
ears, whole chickens and assorted beef dishes make for
satisfied stomachs and wallets. Q Open 12:00 - 01:00.
(700Rbl). PJAGXSW
European
Correas Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 32, MKrasnopres-
nenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 91 00, www.correas.ru.
Groovy cafe food brimming with freshness and taste, this
kind of place really takes you away from Russia and puts you
back in somewhere where things are easy relaxed and clean.
In the style of a neighbourhood deli, the open kitchen means
you can watch everything being prepared. The waiters walk
past doing bicep curls with the plates. That’s how casual it
is. The leafy salads are so tasty that you will even see busi-
ness men and burly gents tucking into them. The menu, which
changes every Wednesday, is mouth-watering and whatever
you can eat in, you can also take away. Q Open 8:00 - 23:00.
(600Rbl). PJAGS
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Ogni E-1, Malaya Sukharevskaya pl. 8/1, MSukharevs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 907 12 22, www.ogny.net. Ogni
gives the impression at times of both a bar, café and
restaurant, spread out as it is into different areas of vary-
ing formality. They serve up a great selection of European
classics such as carbonara or stroganoff and with a simple
approach and masterful hand everything the chef dishes up
will no doubt be swiftly polished off. Special mention should
go to the staff who are by turns flirty, friendly and thoroughly
efficient. A good place for some glamour on a budget. Q
Open 24 hours. (400Rbl).
Prostye Vyeshy B-3, Bolshaya Nikitskaya 14/2, bldg
7, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 34 94. Prosty
vyeshy - simple things - is the motto by which this great little
wine bar runs. The low vaulted brick walls are painted white
and only the odd bottle of wine on display here and there
provides any kind of decoration. The excellent food - includ-
ing fantastic sandwiches and pizzas arrive on wooden slabs
covered in luscious fresh greenery. If you find all this simple
atmosphere too dull ask for a pen and get scribbling on the
paper table cloths - you may find your poetry covering the
walls some day! QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 -
02:00. (360Rbl). PAXSW
Scandinavia B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 19 (enter from Mal.
Palashevsky per. 7), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. An icon amongst Moscow’s
expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service
for over ten years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu
of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and
meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar
menu also has a hefty and popular burger and in the summer
there's a barbeque in the garden. The central location and
calm international atmosphere means there are more than
a few suits and ties dropping in after work. Q Open 12:00 -
24:00. (1,000Rbl). PJAGBXSW
Fish and Seafood
Filimonova and Yankel Fish House B-2, Ul. Tverskaya
23, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 223 07 07, www.fish-
house.ru. Splendid everything. From the welcome, to the
service, from the selection of fresh fish to the decor and choice
of music. Just watch the waiters skillfully debone the fish for
you. The divine tasting fish is the star here. No special sauces
or other gimmicks. The menu changes daily and boasts several
specials. What’s more, the fish and seafood are flown in. During
the summer months their terrace out the back is a particularly
nice place to break away from the noise of Tverskaya. Also at
ul. Zemlyanoy val 9 (metro Kurskaya). Q Open 12:00 - 24:00.
(690Rbl). PTJABSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 33
French and Swiss
Jean Jacques Rosseau D-1, Tsvetnoy bulvar 24,
bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 608 58 10,
www.jan-jak.com. This popular French bistro boasts
a successful recipe of high standard French cafe fare.
Waitresses in their black waistcoats bustle around the red
and black cafe, which is decorated with long mirrors and
a million wine bottles in onsite storage. Open 24 hours,
they do breakfast, lunch and keep going on into the night.
The prices for wine run the whole gamut but start at a
reasonablly-priced house red. Also at Nikitsky bul. 12
(metro Arbatskaya) and Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15/2
(metro Taganskaya). All locations have summer terraces.
Q Open 08:00 - 06:00. (360Rbl). PTALEXSW
Syrnaya Dyrka C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, bldg 4,
MChekhovskaya, tel. (495) 650 10 07, www.sdyrka.
ru. Tired of bland Russian cheese? Then come and pray at
the throne of the Cheese Hole, where literally everything on
the menu comes with some kind of flavoursome French or
Swiss cheese. The small list of starters and mains are all
well executed but the real highlight of the place is the fondue
for two. Upstairs is a large cute French conservatory area
for smokers, while downstairs non-smokers can enjoy cosy
cubby holes and soft sofas - and the very distinct stench
of cheese. Also at Pokrovskiy bulv. 6/20. QOpen 12:00 -
24:00. (500Rbl). PTAXS
International
Balkon Lotte Plaza 7th floor, Novinsky bulvar 8, MSmo-
lenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 788 82 98, www.ginzaproject.
ru. Stuck right up on the top of the Lotte Plaza, the view
from Balkon is really something - no it's not the domes of
the Kremlin that you'll be gazing upon, instead you can see
the future of Moscow in all its glory, the Bladerunner-esque
skyscrapers of Moscow City.The menu comes in two parts,
Asian and Italian. The Italian dishes are worth plumping for, we
especially enjoyed the farfalla with tuna, while the Asian dishes
are smaller portioned and correspondingly cheaper. The at-
mosphere is an upscale country retreat, complete with plush
sofas, birds in cages and discretely dressed business types.
Radio City Bar & Kitchen A-2, Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 5b
(Peking Hotel), MMayakovskaya, tel. 495 363 42 23, www.
radiocitybar.ru. This massive restaurant/bar/club and concert
hall is the first example of a venue that has been successfully
transformed from casino into a popular entertainment space after
gambling got outlawed last year. Although strangely enough there
are still some flashing machines in the back that look suspiciously
like slots…Regardless the restaurant is fun in its own Vegas-way
and can accommodate even the largest of groups. Food unfortu-
nately is hit and miss - and really the chefs should stick to one or
two cuisines rather than trying to put the whole world on the menu.
Most of the burgers we would say are miss, as is the carbonara,
but the stir-fries and snack-sized sandwiches are certified hits.
Q 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PTALESW
Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky
prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. The
original Moscow view to die for - is there anything you can’t see
from up here? Situated 105 metres up on top of the Sparrow
hills you can pick out all seven of Stalin’s sisters and just about
every other skyscraper from the large windows that surround
the entire restaurant. It is possible to eat yourself out of house
and home here with some truly outrageously luxurious and exotic
dishes on the menu, but the portions are accordingly enormous
and there are some more reasonable sushi options on the menu
too. Q Open 13:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PALBXS
August - September 2010
34 Restaurants
Italian
Bocconcino C-2, Strastnoy bul. 7/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 669 73 59, www.bocconcino.ru. Not the place to eat with
your hands, although the pizza tastes so good, you may really want
to. This classy pizzeria’s decor screams Moscow, e.g. the bone and
cream coloured faux Tuscan interior, but the cuisine is pure Italy.
The dough is magic: thin crispy and light. The toppings are fresh
and full of taste and flavour. The only downfall to dining here are
the drink prices: why they need to cost almost the same price as
the pizza? Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (700Rbl). PTALSW
Bolognese Cafe B-2, Ul. Malaya Dmitrovka 6/1,
MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 07 70, www.
novikovgroup.ru. How uninspiring when the dish after which
a restaurant names itself is one of the most dull tasting
things on the menu. Aside from the obvious they of course
also have pizzas, which incidentally are made with good fresh
dough, but ultimately this restaurant fails to give a semblance
of excitment, especially in a city already rammed full of Ital-
ian restaurants running the same menus, country kitchen
interiors and kitsch music. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 06:00. (600Rbl). PTAEBSW
Mamina Pasta B-3, Spiridonevskiy per. 12/9, MPush-
kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 64 64, www.pasta-mamma.
ru. Large Italian chain serving up a reliable selection of Italian
favourites. Most people choose either from the pasta or pizza
menus, from which you can combine toppings as you wish.
They don’t mess around here with too many exotic items,
although their seasonal menus do try to fill things out with
some more unusual classics. Families are welcomed with
open arms and there’s usually a special kiddies area with toys
and crayons to keep them occupied. Q (400Rbl).
Mili E-4, Lubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 10 20, www.restomix.ru. This is just the kind of
place that Moscow needs - a restaurant that’s big on portions
and low on pretention. Oh and the food is great too by the way
and will leave you walking away feeling for once you got some
value for your money. Especially the excellent zucchini pancakes
with red caviar or the enormous tiramisu. The shady roof ter-
race is a veritable retreat on a hot Moscow day and you'll find
it difficult to draw yourself away after the meal is over. Other
restaurants take note, substance over style is the way forward.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (580Rbl). PTAIEBSW
Mi Piace B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 20, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 650 75 75, www.mipiace.ru. This pizzeria and pasta
house chain has a cute brat in pigtails as its mascot. Smart
interior with Iittle touches of Italy, including Sophia Loren photos
and displays of pasta and preserves. Small portions perfectly
suit ladies, but men will need much more than a handfull of
pasta to fill up. Thankfully they have mega dessert pizzas! Six
city locations include, Ul. Bolshaya Ordinka 13/9, tel. 951 52
50, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, tel. 623 44 11 and Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-
Yamskaya 7, tel. 970 11 29. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl).
PALGBXSW
Sorriso Pizzeria and Osteria C-3, Central Telegraf, ul.
Tverskaya 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 988 08 74.
The real winner here is the pizza, thin as Kate Moss and arriving
at your table straight after being cooked to a crispy delight in
a stone wood-fired oven. The rest of the Italian menu doesn’t
meet up with those standards though (since when did cabonara
have spring onions in it?) although the staff and a soundtrack
that does not include songs by Eros Ramazotti for once at
least adds a little bit of fresh air. If you are around Red Square,
it is a fairly safe, choice although we still prefer the sushi bar
upstairs. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (350Rbl). PTAESW
Moscow In Your Pocket
Jewish
Chagall A-3, Jewish Cultural Centre, Bolshaya
Nikitskaya ul. 47/3, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 926
48 03, www.chagall.ru. Moscow’s first kosher restaurant is
a must for fans of Ashkenazi (Eastern European Jewish) cuisine.
All the favourites such as gefillte fisch and potato pancakes
are on the menu and when it says ‘babushka’s recipe’ you’d
better believe it! We went wild for the mysterious ‘shamak in
Odessa style’ which turned out to be a kind of herring pate
usually known as ‘Gehakte herring’ that had us wishing that
we too had a Jewish grandmother from Odessa. The place
itself is very atmospheric, decorated in turn of the century
style, complete with imitation Chagall paintings and they
occasionally host live klezmer troupes to add a festive feel to
your meal. Go through the Jewish cultural centre to find the
restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (650Rbl). PAESW
Middle Eastern
Bungalo Bar Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 6/1, MKurskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 916 24 32, www.bungalobar.ru. Ethiopian food is
mostly served communally, and is eaten with your hands. Order
the firmentoye (house) plate: it will be enough for four people
between you. The juices from different meat curries, pickles
and vegetables soak into the spongey, slightly sour Ethiopian
injera bread, which is also used at the eating untensil.Tear off
a piece of bread, wrap it around a dollop of curry and then…
feel it slide down your throat. If eating with your hands doesn’t
thrill you, they’ve got a lot of other meat and vegetarian dishes.
Q Open 12:00 - 24:00. (400Rbl). PAXS
Ketama C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 5/6, bldg 5,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (495) 692 92 68, www.dvg.ru. After
going through the huge Moorish door and up the precarious
stone stairs you will be handed a torch and some slippers
as it’s dark as hell in here and seating is on cushions and on
the carpeted floor. When it’s light outside you can see that
some immense effort was put into the unique design of the
place, which is sexy, trendy and very Arabian nights with a
good helping of Moscow cool on top. Most of the dishes taste
satisfyingly authentic, although sometimes they may be over
liberal with the salt. The exotic Moroccan tea is must. Q 24
hours. (600Rbl). PAXSW
Marocana F-5, Kotelnicheskaya nab. 1/15, MTagans-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 35 00, www.marocana.ru. The
playful interior recreates the sounds and smells and feel of
exotic and faraway Morocco. The couscous is one of the many
tasty treats here and it comes in big portions. The menu
also features an assortment of pastries, soups, Moroccan
salads and a string of meat dishes that we can’t pronounce
but smell great. The ethos here is to recreate the best of
Morrocan home cooking and charge down-to-earth prices.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (600Rbl). PAES
Spanish
Tapa de Comida D-2, Ul. Trubnaya 20/2, bld. 3, MTrub-
naya., tel. (+7) 495 608 20 07, www.tapadecomida.ru.
Viva l’espana! Step off the mean streets of Moscow and say
hola to tapas comida. Set up like a real Valencian cantina,
this place looks and feels Spanish inside and out, complete
with beautiful tiling, roughly painted mustard walls, football
scarves, happy locals sipping wine at the bar and long Medi-
terranean style windows. This was the first tapas bar to open
in Moscow and is still probably the best. They also have very
good lunch deals, the paella is wonderfully authentic and the
long wine list has something for everyone. A definite winner.
Q Open 24 hours. (700Rbl). PTAEBW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Restaurants 35
Steak Houses
Good Beef D-3, Bolshoy Cherkasskiy per. 15-17, bldg 1,
MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.
ru. This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want
their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here,
you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or
fillet mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are
particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it
arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and
overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are
low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure
the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. (500Rbl).
Goodman B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 23, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 775 98 88, www.goodman.ru. The good
in Goodman says it all. This stylish steak house chain is
informal, relaxed, and the food is to be savoured. Great care
is put into your meal and how it is served. The wood interior
plays host to soft leather couches and all the waiters wear
chef’s whites. The lavatories are five star, just like the service.
Their menu, although predominantly meat oriented, has a
hefty chunk of salads and seafood. QOpen 12.00 - 24.00.
(1,280Rbl). PTJALEBXSW
Ukrainian
Chervona Ruta 3-ya Krutitskii per.,2, MProletarskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 926 70 78. If you’re looking for authentic
Ukrainian cooking and a heartwarming Slavic experience,
go no further. This small restaurant offers real home cooking
and pleasant service: it could easily hold its own with the
other much more expensive Ukrainian places in town. The
menu offers a wide selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes
such as golubtsy (cooked cabbage rolls with rice, tomatoes,
root vegetables and meat) Hetman borshch with rolls in a
garlic sauce smoked and grilled meats, and dryaniki, potato
pancakes. Their homemade blueberry and blackberry mors
(a fresh berry compote-like drink) must be tasted. Be sure to
look around the room and soak in all the wonderful pieces
of Ukrainian folk art and colorful embroidery on display. Q
Open 12:00-24:00. (400Rbl). PTBKS
Vegetarian
Avocado F-3, Chistoprudny bul. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 19. Vegetarian cafes are
always empty, right? Not this one. Come meal time it can be
hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and vegetable pictures
on the wall suffice for décor. There is an extensive range of
teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach
and mushrooms feature prominently. The evening live music
includes a rather hip harp player, but there is also guitar for
those looking for something more conventional. Just try not
to get annoyed with the staff, they really can be a bit dippy.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (300Rbl). PAEGSW
Jagannath D-3, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 11, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 35 80, www.jagannath.ru. De-
lightful vegetarian cafe with a touch of hippiness. Depending
on the time you can choose to take a dish from the bain-marie
(hot plates) in the cafe or opt to go through to the restaurant.
Either promises a relaxing repast. You’ll have the choice of many
vegetables cooked all different ways under the sun, and there
are tasty soups, salads and even soy shaslik (shish kebabs).
There’s a very well-stocked vegetarian shop as well with all the
unusual favourites such as mate tea and rye flour pasta. QO-
pen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. Th, Fr, Sa evening
live music (in summer). (350Rbl). PTJAEGBSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
36 Nightlife
Moscow never sleeps. Whether you are after an elite night-
club with a pyrotechnic show, a dingy dive or comfortable
English style pub, you’ll not be disapointed. Prices listed in
brackets indicate the average price of a main course.
Bars and Pubs
Bobby Dazzler E-2, Kostyanskiy per. 7/13, MTur-
genevskaya, tel. (495) 608 03 83, www.bobbydazzler.
ru. In English slang a Bobby Dazzler is typically an amazing or
very striking person or thing. This English pub is not quite that,
but it certainly does push all the right buttons. With a cosy
red interior, a very reasonably priced menu, background pub
music that stays in the background and chirpy barmaids a lot
of things are going right here. If you’re hungry go for the excel-
lent homemade sausages - these are no skanky processed
Russian sosiki, here it’s all about traditional meaty monsters
with Guinness or red ale amongst many others exciting mixes.
QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. Open 11:00
- 03:00. Sat, Sun 13:00 - 03:00. (400Rbl). PAEBS
Katie O’ Shea’s E-1, Grokholskiy per. 26, bldg. 5,
MProspekt Mira, tel. 792 51 88, www.katieosheas.ru.
The brains behind Moscow’s legendary Irish bar Silvers have
put their heart and soul into this wonderfully bright, spacious
and airy Irish pub. As well as having possibly the cheapest and
best Guinness in Moscow (fact!), there’s also a great pub food
menu (including curry) and the bar staff are all versed in how to
hold a friendly conversation. Each night of the week attracts
an open and lively crowd and sports fans will be delighted with
the amount of screens and variety of different sports covered.
It’s a great place for Sunday lunch and look out for posters
advertising their (English language) pub quizzes. QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. Open 09:00 - 24:00.
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. (450Rbl). PAIEBXSW
Summer cocktail menu
Every year Dmitri Sokolev, Moscow’s
cocktail Tsar who runs 6 different cock-
tail venues in Moscow, goes into the
lab and gets busy creating completely
new cocktails to celebrate the arrival
of summer. This year’s summer menu
includes the Cappuccino Daiquiri, the
Porn Star Martini which comes with
cherries and a side of prosecco, an
excellent Grapefruit Julep and the gin
based KiwiKaze which is spiced up with
fresh kiwi and elderberry syrup. Our
favourite though is the Tema Special
Drink – a bowl full of watermelon slices
that have been soaked in a mixture of
rum, limoncello, honey syrup and lime
juice. All these and more are available
at the following bars:
All Time Bar C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5,
bldg 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (495) 629 08 11, www.
alltimebar.ru. Q Open 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PASW
Dream Bar E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 17, bldg. 1,
MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.
dreambar.ru. Q 24 hrs. (600Rbl). PALS
Help Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 27, MBeloruss-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 995 53 95, www.helpbar.ru. Q
Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). PAEXSW
Tema Bar E-3, Potapovsky per. 5, bldg. 2, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 624 27 20, www.temabar.ru. Q
Open 24hrs. (300Rbl). PJABXS
Moscow In Your Pocket
Kvatira 44 C-6, Ul. Malaya Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.k44.ru. The main draw of this
branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmo-
spheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an
old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with
cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow,
and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest
terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy
glow, perfect for snuggling up in. Q (350Rbl). PTAEB
La Cantina C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 5, MOkhotny ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 692 53 88, www.lacantina.ru. This crazy little
Mexican bar feels like it’s full even when it’s half-empty. Maybe
it’s something to do with the amount of tex-mex clutter that
covers the place - flags, old adverts for corona and sombreros
abound and the tables get nearer and nearer to each other
as the night wears on into party mode. After dark, the live
bands and cheap cocktails, combined with a clock above the
bar that ticks backward, can lead to inebriated confusion…
Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. Live music
daily after 21:00 weekends after 22:00. (700Rbl). PEB
Lebyedinoye Ozero Ul. Krymskiy val 9/22 (Enter from
Titovskiy proezd), MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 782
58 13, www.s-11.ru. One of the hotspots around at night,
by day this lovely little complex of Thai style pavillions, hidden
away right in the end of Gorky Park is an absolute delight. In
terms of food the menu plays it fairly safe with reasonable
shashliks, cheese breads and a couple of hit and miss wok
dishes rounding out the menu, but sitting amongst the funky
cushions and cute lamps listening to the soothing sounds of
light chatter and bird song really adds a great bonus to the
meal. In the evenings Moscow trendy set down here for cock-
tails and great DJ sets. There’s also a pool where you can cool
off if you so wish.Q Open 24 hours. (400Rbl). PABW
Mayak A-3, Ul. Bolshaya Nikitskaya 19, MArbats-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 97 49, www.clubmayak.ru.
Don’t come to Mayak looking to meet new people or find a
special someone for the night. Mayak is mainly a sit-down
gathering place for friends and colleagues. Located inside
the Mayakovsky Theater, no wonder it is known for attract-
ing the Moscow intelligentsia. Tables are filled almost every
night of the week, but luckily the service is not affected by
the large clientele volume. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (350Rbl).
PJALKS
Papa Joe’s F-5, Ul. Nikoloyamskaya 26, bldg 1a,
MTaganskaya, tel. 495 775 27 10, www.papajoes.
ru. This fun latin bar and restaurant is the homing becon
for Moscow’s latino community. The menu is full of Mexican
classics as well as a few simpler Cuban dishes, while on the
drinks side mojitos and margaritas of course feature heavily.
At the weekend the atmosphere really heats up with literally
everyone dancing along to the instructions of the inimitably
fun Papa Joes salsa queens and taking part in limbo com-
petitions and conga lines. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00
- 03:00. (500Rbl). PAEX
Papas Place E-3, Ul. Myasnitskaya 22, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 755 95 54, www.papas.ru. Papas
is the perfect two in one venue. A comfortable and relaxed
restaurant fills out the street level while below there is a
dark and dim cellar bar. There’s a large screen and dance
floor where all can strut their stuff. Theme nights bring in a
different gang every evening. The menu is straight up Ameri-
can style bar fare with burgers, pizzas, nachos and chicken
wings with blue cheese sauce on offer. Q 24 hours. (500Rbl).
PAEXSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Piro.g.i na Maroseike E-3, Ul. maroseika 9/2, bldg.
6, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 13 70, www.
ogipirogi.ru. Bustling at all times of day with student
types seeking cheap prices and a relaxed atmosphere
you can get a pie or a beer here at any hour. Their pies
are big bready affairs (we’ll never cease to be surprised at
the Russian desire to eat potato pies) and the beer comes
in half litres or teapots. With checked table clothes and
a cool soundtrack Pir.o.gi (pies) encourages lingering and
feels more like a cafe than a bar, although some of the full
tables may also be put down to the fact that half of the
guests are just waiting for a waiter to bring them their bill.
The speed of service here is snail pace. DJs play on Thu,
Fri, Sat.Q Open 24 hrs. (200Rbl). PAESW
Punch and Judy Pub D-5, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 6/1,
MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 34 80, www.
pjpub.ru. Another standard Russian pub, where nothing is
actually particularly English at all, save for the menu (which
in itself is actually not even that English either - check out
their hilarious ‘fun and joy motto‘). The waitresses wander
around in tarten mini-skirts while the patrons - mostly pass-
ing suits from nearby business centres - occupy the booths
and leather benches.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 06:00. (450Rbl). PAES
Silvers C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 5 (enter from Nikitsky bul.),
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 690 42 22. If there is
such a thing as an expat favourite, this is it. When it comes
to sports, however, Irish and British fans have the upper
hand as the pub’s two screens are most always broadcast-
ing these nations’ football, rugby and cricket games. The
bar is smallish, pocket sized even, but filled to the brim on
any given evening. The kitchen serves reasonably-priced
British pub fare and the beer on tap starts at around
100Rbl. Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
(350Rbl). PJ
Sixteen Tons Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa
1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50, www.16tons.ru.
Authentic feeling English pubs don’t have to shout about it,
you know when you walk in that something just feels right.
Like here for instance. The 16 tonnes home brewed beer, a
smooth tasting light ale, goes down sweetly and the stained
glass windows and corralled seating makes everything
indubitably atmospheric. The place, which is already huge,
has still got quite an intimate feeling and buzzes with actors,
students, journalists and the odd passing tourist. Upstairs is
a space devoted to large big name concerts which becomes
a dancing club later on. QOpen 11:00 - 06:00. (500Rbl).
Admission to concerts 300-3,000Rbl. PAEXS
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife 37
Summer Terraces
Dozens of the bars and restaurants that we have listed
also have summer terraces, roof terraces or even full
blown gardens. Here we’ve selected some of the best
picks suitable for any mood.
Art Garbage E-3, Starosadsky per. 5, MKitai Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 87 45, www.art-garbage.ru.
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). Admission to concerts
100-500Rbl
Cafe Pushkin B-3, Tverskoy bul. 26/5, MTver-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.
ru.QOpen 24hrs. (1,000Rbl).
Chaikhona No.1 C-2, Hermitage Sad, MChek-
hovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 00 32, www.chaihona.
com.QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (500Rbl).
Coffee Mania A-3, Pl. Kudrinskaya, 46/54, Chai-
kovsky Cultural Center, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7)
495 721 83 77, www.coffeemania.ru.QOpen 24
hrs (200Rbl).
Daikon Sushi and Noodle House E-1, Pr. Mira 12,
bldg 1, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 607 75 78,
www.daikon.ru. Q 24hrs. (400Rbl).
Ded Pikhto E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 37, MChistye
prudy, tel. (+7) 495 915 83 83, www.ginzapro-
ject.ru.Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
(350Rbl).
Elardgy B-5, Gagarinskiy per. 15a, MKropotkins-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 627 78 97, www.ginzaproject.
ru.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (450Rbl).
Lebyedinoye Ozero Ul. Krymskiy val 9/22 (Enter
from Titovskiy proezd), MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7)
495 782 58 13, www.s-11.ru.Q Open 24 hours.
(400Rbl).
Lof t Cafe D-3, 6th Floor Nautilius Shopping
Centre, Ul. Nikolskaya 2, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 933 77 13, www.cafelof t.ru. Q Open 09:00
- 24:00. (600Rbl).
Mili E-4, Lubyanskiy proezd 15/2, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 625 10 20, www.miliresto.ru.QOpen
11:00 - 23:00. (400Rbl).
O2 Lounge C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 3 (The Ritz-Carlton),
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.
ritzcarlton.com.QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl).
Oblomov D-7, 1-y Monyetchikovskiy per 5, MDo-
bryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www.restsindi-
kat.com. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (800Rbl).
Osteria Montiroli Bol. Nikitskaya 60, bld. 2, MBarri-
kadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 799 55 90, www.restsindikat.
com.QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. (750Rbl).
Scandinavia B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 19 (enter from
Mal. Palashevsky per. 7), MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Q Open
12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl).
Sky Lounge Leninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLen-
insky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.
skylounge.ru.QOpen 13:00 - 24:00 (1,000Rbl).
Tiflis B-6, Ul. Ostozhenka 32, MKropotinskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 766 97 28, www.tiflis.ru.Q Open 12:00 -
24:00. (1,000Rbl).
Tsurtsum Cafe Vinzavod Art Centre, 4-y Siromyat-
nichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
783 89 48, www.winzavod.ru/curcum/. Q Open
11:00 - 23:00. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Thu, Fri, Sat 11:00
- 06:00. (300Rbl)
August - September 2010
38 Nightlife
The Real McCoy Kudrinskaya pl. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel.
(+7) (499) 255 41 44, www.mccoy.ru. Look for this American
style speak easy in the base of the huge Stalin skyscraper, on
the Ul. Barrikadnaya side. Sometimes it could be a sleaz easy,
especially on weekends when its heaving with people and you
can get picked up or pick up faster than you can get a drink. Wed
to Sat they throw in a live band as well. The bank teller staff
stepped out of the Al Capone era sometimes approach patrons
as if they expected them to whip out a revolver..... Q Open 24hrs
(600Rbl). Live music daily after 20:30. PAEXSW
Cocktail Bars
City Space F-7, Swissotel Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamian-
skaya nab. 52, 34th floor, MPaveltskaya, tel. +7 495 221
53 57, www.swissotel.com. The view is heavenly. There are
no other words for it when you are on the 34th floor looking out
at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your
personally mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails
from the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. That’s why
they reinvented them giving them a twist of orange blossom
dew, a rinse of pernod, a topping of light vanilla foam. After a
few cocktails, leaving here really brings you crashing down to
earth. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. (1,000Rbl). PAEXSW
O2 Lounge C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 3 (The Ritz-Carlton),
MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.
ritzcarlton.com. Welcome to the most notoriously glamor-
ous terrace in Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity
you can think of has been up at this prohibitively expensive
cocktail lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the
outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with
everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding view
of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never was an
economic crisis. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (1,000Rbl). PJABW
Sports bars
Buddies C-2, Ul. Tverskaya 12, bldg. 8 (down Kozitsky
per), MChekovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 02 29, www.
buddiescafe.ru. If you’d like to go out to watch the game, but
aren’t that into greasy fried snack-food smells and beer-sticky
floors and table tops, then Buddies sports bar is an excellent
alternative. While the bar has a good selection of European and
Russian beers on tap, the restaurant serves elegantly prepared
Asian-fusion dishes, including delicious pre-game munchies like
Thai spring rolls. Because groups watch their game of choice
on their table’s own personal flat-screen, Buddies generates
small intimate pockets of excitement but not the traditional,
communal sports-bar hype. When you exit the metro, turn left.
In about 30 seconds an alley will appear on your left. Walk all
the way down it until you hit Kozitsky per. Buddies is across the
street. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (450Rbl). PJNXSW
Реклама
Moscow In Your Pocket
Modern Art Bar – Mart
Just as we went to print the lovely guys behind such popular
haunts as Kvatira 44, Café Jean Jacques and Mayak opened
their new project Mart inside the Moscow Museum of Modern
Art on ul. Petrovka 25. With an art book shop, regular exhibi-
tions and good music, it should quickly turn out to be a popular
hangout. The attitude is relaxed (no face control here) and
with a large handpicked design team we are especially hoping
that they make better use of the great space and huge light-
filled orangerie room than the previous tenant Café 24 did.
Hot Dog’s Bar ‘n Grill Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 26, MKurskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 917 01 50, www.hot-dogs.ru. With a bar area
wrapped in flat screens, live broadcasts on two giant screens,
poker tables, great daily drink specials and happy hours, you
can be sure that Hot Dogs takes good care of its sports fans.
Popular international matches are on every night of the week.
It gets rowdy and rocking once the crowds come in, but there’s
plenty of room to dance and mingle with the lads and ladies
(the bar is as big as a warehouse). Just watch out who you are
getting attention from, not all the sexily dressed women here
as, ahem, honest as you might hope.Q Open 24hrs (500Rbl).
Admission 200Rbl from 22:00 till 05:00. PAEBXSW
John Donne Pub B-4, Nikitskiy bulvar 12, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 627 69 07, www.john-donne.ru. Well we have
to admit that over the months this place has really picked up a
lot more atmosphere and is quickly turning into an expat haunt
of epic proportions - you’ll hear more English spoken here than
Russian. Seating is only on high bar stools, meaning that stand-
ing and sipping a pint whilst watching the game is not frowned
upon - in fact it’s almost encouraged! On match days it can be
impossible almost even get in the door, but the huge mixed
crowd only adds to the atmosphere (and clouds of smoke…).
Food is not worth ordering, so it’s better to eat in the Café
Jean Jacque next door. Also at Verkhnaya Radishevskaya 15
(metro Taganskaya). Q 24 hrs. (400Rbl). PALBXSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Kruzhka E-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 32/1, bldg. 1, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 644 39 36, www.kruzhka.com.
Moscow’s ultimate chain of cheap pubs. Each Kruzhka has
a large drop-down projector that shows mostly Russian
sporting events. The prices are so good here that you can
order at ease: pitchers of beer all night, fried-food platters,
salty beer snacks and grilled meats. There are four beers
on tap and the cheapest one costs little more than it does
in a shop. There are 34 Kruzhkas around town so be sure
to check their website to find the nearest pub and make
reservations. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 04:00.
(200Rbl). JASW
Clubs
Coyote Ugly C-3, Ul. Kuznetskiy Most 6/3, MKuznetskiy
most, tel. (+7) 495 692 03 97, www.coyoteugly.ru. Part of
theinternational chain that inspired the film of the same name,
this is a bar where the girls rule the roost and you’d better
beware,these are no mere go-go dancers, they have attitude!
Yes they can probably squeeze a lemon for your tequila from
their cleavage, but they also have plenty of personality. Girls
are allowed to dance on the huge American style bar, security
make sure the men keep their hands in their pockets and the
soundtrack is very much girl power. Happy hours bring in a
mixed crowd and a competent door policy that keeps out the
ladies of dubious reputation make sure that everyone has fun.
QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. Admission men Fri, Sat 300Rbl after
21:00. PAX
Gogol (GO) C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MTeat-
ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru.
Something is surely going to happen here, any minute now in
any one of the three connecting spaces - its got that backstage
energy. From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the
cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t
be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great
place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night.
The music is bohemian stuff you probably won’t remember the
next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here. Summer brings
their outside terrace to life, and if the sun passes over, they’ll
give you a blanket. See, they want you to stay and have fun.
Q Open 12:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 24hrs. Admission to concerts
200-1,000Rbl. (300Rbl). PAEBXSW
Ikra Ul. Kazakova 8a, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 778 56
51, www.ikraclub.ru. This funky orange 70s style place has
been around for years and still brings in the crowds due to their
policy of bringing in big live acts who are more on the alterna-
tive side of the spectrum. With a more atmospheric concert
hall than other similar places such as 16tons, the concerts
are usually well worth their price tags. During the day there’s
also a café with business lunches and house music pump-
ing away and after hours, the parties tend more towards the
dance genres, making it a good starting point before heading
off to the myriad of clubs down the hill in the old Arma fac-
tory complex. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
(400Rbl). Admission to concerts 200-6,000Rbl. PAEK
Propaganda E-3, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamos-
cow.com. A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda
has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service
is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long
without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portion-wise
and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort
zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. They invite foreign
djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights. Q Open
11:30 - 06:00. Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. (250Rbl). Admission
free, facecontrol. PJEXSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife 39
Adult Entertainment
In Moscow there are strip-club options for every taste
and budget and you can catch a striptease anytime,
anywhere: in a shabby bar, a luxurious Western-style club
or, spontaneously, on cafe table-top.
Kapriz Akademika Sakharova pr. 14, MKrasnye
Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 723 58 23, www.clubkapriz.ru.
This upscale male strip club is hot, hot, hot! Against a back-
drop of sexy zebra patterns and red lights, women young
and old come here to party with toned Herculean studs.
Everyone, from the waiters, to the dancers, from the door-
man, to the barman, treat their female guests like queens.
Private dances, VIP private rooms and crazy menus are all
available. Wednesday is “open people’s night,” where any
man can come in and try his hand (or behind) at the strip-
thing. The women vote for a winner, and the lucky man may
even be hired by the club. It is highly recomended that you
book a table in advance. QOpen 22:00 - 07:00. (700Rbl).
Admission woman 500Rbl, men 7,000Rbl. Mon, Tue woman
1,000Rbl (free alcohol all night). PALEK
Rasputin A-6, Zubovsky bul. 25, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 363 34 40, www.rasputinclub.ru. If you’re
looking for an upscale strip bar that lives up to Moscow’s
reputation, you can head to Rasputin, which is named after
the famous womanizing monk. Just about everything here
breathes ‘spend, spend, spend’. And you just might want
to with all this beauty around. In addition to several private
rooms (jacuzzi and sauna included) Rasputin’s shows are
notably better than average. They could almost be staged
in the Bolshoy (if not for the lack of clothes). The club also
boasts a fine restaurant. Read the menu carefully, it holds
a number of suprises… Q Open 24 hrs. Admission free.
17:00 - 06:00 1,000-1,500Rbl. PAXW
Night Flight B-2, Ul. Tverskaya 17, MPushkinsaya,
tel. (+7) 495 629 41 65, www.nightflight.ru. Mos-
cow’s oldest nightclub is still the leading default-choice
for foreign businessmen looking for attractive Russian
company and a great Scandinavian meal. The orange
and brown carpets, sofas and armchairs and staircases
lined with bright strings of lights scream 70s-porno flick,
but the guests don’t seem to mind. They have more
modern scenarios on their mind. Both the restaurant’s
and the club’s lounge areas’ busiest times are weekdays
nights. Q Open 21:00 - 05:00. Restaurant 18:00 - 04:00.
Admission 1,100Rbl (to the bar from 21:00). Credit cards
accepted only in the restaurant. PJAKS
August - September 2010
40 Nightlife
Face control
Moscow doesn’t believe in tears. Moscow believes in face
control. The man on the door with the clipboard is the bane
of the Moscow club scene and the idea of barring entry to
someone to night spots because said potential client is
unfashionably dressed, ugly or just has the wrong brand of
sunglasses on is now as quintessentially Russian as vodka
and mayonaise salads. In Your Pocket is no stranger to the
phenomenon and yes we've been turned away too. Here are
a handful of the places we didn't manage to list.
Soho Rooms Savvinskaya nab. 12, bldg. 8, MFrun-
zenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 74 74, www.soho-
rooms.com. Fail! We were scanned by the video camera
(which we guess relays the pictures back to some kind of
evil jury hidden inside the club) and the voice that came
through the ear pieces to security said no.
Krysha Mira nab, Taras Shevchenko 12, entrance 3,
MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 979 56 92. Fail! They say
it’s the best club in Moscow, but you can only get in if you
know the password. We went with someone who claimed to
know the password. Turned out they got it wrong and that
that old chestnut has been pulled more than a few times.
We are family Lubyanskiy proezd 15, bldg 2, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 767 30 00. Fail! They claim to be the
most exclusive in town, so the odds were never very high,
although people who have been there, tell us it is empty.
Bilingua Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg 5 MTurgenevs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 96 60, www.bilinguaclub.
ru.Fail! Our group of late-twenty to thirtysomethings was
turned away from this haunt of impoverished students
and school kids because we couldn’t prove we were old
enough to enter. Strange world.
Denis Simachev Stolyeshnikov per. 12, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 80 85, www.denis-
simachev.com. Score! Lord only knows how we got in to this
fashionable haunt, said editor was even holding a carrier bag.
Perseverance is key here, and a foreign guy on hand who looks
like he may be spending some money helps too. Interestingly
they also love journalists and foreign correspondents.
Tekhniki Molodezhi 3-ya ul. yamskogo polya 24,
MBelorusskaya, (495) 363 28 11. Score! We lied
our way in here, by having one of our gang pretend he
was our bodyguard. Either they believed us or they were
amused and rewarded us for our imagination.
Pacha ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, (+7) 495 798
57 77, www.pachamoscow.ru. Score! We got in, but only
as part of a ‘LabelFucker’ Party. Join the LF group on facebook
and they will give you passwords to enter on their party nights.
Good luck trying on another day though, apparently even
Pacha’s own staff couldn’t get in to the opening night party.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Purga C-2, 4 Strastnoi bulvar bldg 3(enter through bar
Poslednya kaplya in the courtyard), MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 792 12 38, www.purga-club.ru. Just as in
Alice in Wonderland, follow one of your fellow revellers (who will
probably be dressed as a white rabbit) through the fireplace
of the Poslednaya kaplya bar upstairs and you’ll land in this
sparkly underground warren where New Year’s Eve is celebrated
every night complete with ridiculous costumes, champagne
and a President’s speech. You can also catch mock Russian
weddings happening with the help of dresses fashioned from
toilet paper. Needless to say, just like on New Year, there’s a
wild party atmosphere and everyone is intent on getting com-
pletely hammered. Definitely one of Moscow’s more fun clubs.
QOpen 18:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). Admission free. PESW
Rolling Stone Bar and Tattoo C-6, Ul. Bolotnaya nab. 3
bldg 1, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 504 09 32, www.
myspace.com/rollingstonetattoo. Go up the stairs and climb
through the hole in the wall to find yourself in one Moscow's only
'fashion' rock clubs, that gleams with roadhouse americana.
Whisky in the jar-o is order of the day and up on the awesome
roof terrace the action can keep going well into the morning. Staff
are not the friendliest we’ve ever met - and that’s putting it nicely,
and in a very un-rocker style they've recentely implemented a
face control policy. Try not to get too wasted else you may make
an unwise decision in the tattoo parlour out the back.Q Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.
Solyanka F-4, Ul. Solyanka 11/6, bldg. 1, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 221 75 57, www.s-11.ru. Not quite
sure what it is really, Solyanka is part club, part restaurant,
part someone else’s lounge room when that somone else
owns a mansion. Suitably cool and unaffected, a lot of Rus-
sians sit around chilling out and ignoring each other while
lounging on or dancing over the mismatched furniture. Three
rooms are filled with lounge chairs and adorned with design
odds and bobs. There is a bar in the back, with twelve or so
space bubble lamps hanging over the top. Drinks are lush,
food is affordable. Just arrive early enough so you don’t have
to wait in line. Q Open 10:00 - 06:00, Sat 11:00 - 07:00, Sun
11:00 - 06:00. Admission free. Fri, Sat 500Rbl after 23:00.
Face-control. (400Rbl). PJAXSW
Sorry, Babushka E-4, Slavyanskaya pl. 2/1, MKitai
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 788 06 15, www.sorrybabushka.ru.
Sorry, Babushka is a peaceful place to hang out at night. You
will mostly see young middle class Russians here. They have
wallet-friendly prices and are not as difficult at the door as you
might find at other place across the city. The place has a nice
atmosphere and the interior is stylish with chandeliers and fancy
sofas. The music varies from old school favorites to R&B, Hip
Hop and Trance.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Tue, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 06:00. Face control, dress code (500Rbl). PLEXSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Alternative
Arte FAQ C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, MChekhovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 39 71, www.artefaq.ru. By day
it’s the perfect place for a coffee and a read, come the evening
it’s a great idea for a restaurant or cocktail date and at night?
Head downstairs and dance away! This sprawling place is a
bit of a maze and full of inviting corners and mezzanines. The
interior is on the right side of bohemian cool. Mismatched
furniture, exposed brick walls and bookshelves put the art
in the name, without falling into the over-the-top trap and the
whole atmosphere is complimented perfectly by a wonder-
ful jazz funk soundtrack. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl).
Admission to concerts 200-500Rbl. PAIEBSW
Art Garbage E-3, Starosadsky per. 5, MKitai Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 628 87 45, www.art-garbage.ru. An absolutely
wonderful hidden courtyard with a very confusing name. In
the yard itself tables nestle under fairy light covered trees
and canopies whilst doors lead off in all directions to vari-
ous different bars and dining rooms inside the surrounding
buildings. The crowd here is hip yet mature and the friendly
atmosphere bubbles with the prospect of some great food
from the restaurant or great tunes from the DJs in the club
down in the basement. Easily one of our favourite places to
hang out in this part of town on a warm summer's evening.
QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). Admission to concerts
100-500Rbl. PAEBXSW
B2 Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 99 09, b2club.ru. One of Moscow’s big-
gest live music clubs, B2 plays hosts to all kinds of jazz, latino,
rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven
bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite
possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in
just one night - if you can manage to figure your way around
the labyrinthine interior that is. Students and older locals alike
flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest
bands play at rock bottom prices. As well as the jazz club, disco
club, latino music, lounge, rock concerts and football screen-
ings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer
courtyard! QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. Admission free, Thu 300Rbl
after 22:00, Fri, Sat 300Rbl (woman), 500Rbl (man) after 20:00.
Admission to concerts 300-3,000Rbl. PAEBXSW
Duma C-3, Ul. Mokhovaya 11, building 3b (enter from
Nikitskiy per. 2), MOkhotny ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 11
19, www.clubduma.ru. If you can find it you won’t be disap-
pointed. This place is not only literally underground it’s also
through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down
in this large round cellar they play quality funk music to a cool
youngish crowd who know their stuff. Some great live bands
also often drop in to crank up the tempo. The interior oozes
groovy 1970’s Soviet chic, whilst upstairs in the summer there's
a reasonable covered terrace and a ping pong table in the yard.
QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Sun 11:00 - 06:00. (400Rbl). Admission
to concerts 200-600Rbl. PAEBSW
F.A.Q. Cafe C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 65/74, bldg
1, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 499 755 88 27, www.
faqcafe.ru. The old branch of this long loved underground
cafe had to be closed down due to fire saftey reasons, and
although this new incarnation looks great, it has lost some
of the atmosphere of the cramped old little den of bohemian
excitement. Staff are true Russian hipsters and the patrons
likewise and everybody but everybody can be expected to
be discussing either the live music, the shockingly high price
of drinks, or the long-awaited opening of their awesome
roof terrace. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00. (300Rbl). Admission to
concerts 200-500Rbl. PJAEBSW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife 41
Live music venues
At some venues you can turn up to find there are only
three people watching some odd alternative jazz, whilst
at others you may pay 500Rbl to hear next year’s hot-
test band. In the following clubs you usually find the later.
B2 Ul. Bolshaya Sadovaya 8 bldg. 1, MMayakovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 09, b2club.ru.
Sixteen Tons Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1,
MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 495 253 15 50,
www.16tons.ru.
Gogol (GO) C-3, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MTeat-
ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru
Ikra Ul. Kazakova 8a, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 778
56 51, www.ikraclub.ru
Masterskaya D-3, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3,
MLubyanka, tel. 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru
Krisis Zhanra F-3, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bld. 1, MChisty
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.
ru. Popular with young yuppies who haven’t forgotten their
student days just yet, this place is a little bohemian paradise.
Tucked away on the middle strip on Pokrovsky bulvar, its
almost underground. It’s so dark, smokey and the music is
so loud, you can not understand anything your friends say let
alone the waitress. The three split levels create a seventies
open plan warehouse feel to which the classics soundtrack
goes well with. Great for before and after drinks. QOpen
11:00 - 06:00. (270Rbl). PJENXSW
Kult F-5, Ul. Yauzkaya 5, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
917 57 06, www.club-cult.com. This is one for the Kool
kids who are into Kult music. On first glance it seems like a
small underground place, but there is in fact a whole other
huge café area hidden round the back which really fills up when
a popular DJ is playing as the place can get pretty sweaty
and the air-con works marginally better back there. The music
here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and
you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle
here. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 06:00. (250Rbl).
Admission free, face control. PNS
Masterskaya D-3, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLuby-
anka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. What is
there not to love about this folksy ex-banya with the air of an
underground Viennese coffee house mashed together with
a bohemian artist’s studio? On Tuesday’s they have a board
games night, weekends all manner of concerts, during the
day artist’s sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering
the tiled room and by night intellectuals argue about Nabokov
over glasses of luscious homemade ice-tea. There’s even a
small theatre in the back - we can’t get enough of this place,
at any time of day. To find it go down the alley between ul.
Neglinaya and ul. Rozhdestvenka. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.
(450Rbl). Admission to concerts 100-800Rbl. PENSW
Vino-grad Ul. Lesnaya 1/2, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 251 77 00, www.vino-grad.ru. A quiet place to have a
bite to eat early on, things in here can quickly get crazy though
as every night brings in a different crowd and a different style
of music whilst the cave like interior means it also can get hot
quicker than you can say ‘where’s the air con?’. However, it is
cheap, the bouncers are as close to human as they get in this
town and the staff are even openly friendly. It’s not unknown
even for executives who are looking for an anti-glamour experi-
ence to come down here and loosen their ties. Q Open 24hrs.
(300Rbl). PASW
August - September 2010
42 sightseeing
Please note that museum ticket offices (kassi) usually
close one hour before official museum closing times.
Also bear in mind that most museums charge extra for
photography and video.
Kremlin
Kremlin C/D-4, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky
Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. The street
plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered
pattern of concentric
circles, clearly marking
out the city’s develop-
ment outwards over
the centuries. In the
middle of this great
Catherine wheel is the
Kremlin, the fortified
hill which formed the
hear t of the ancient
city, and which to this
day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation.
Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of
buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient
Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism,
to 1960s soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds
to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential
estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public
to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon,
who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you
will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths,
the most important being located in Alexandrinsky Sad, on
the west side of the Kremlin. Having bought your tickets, leave
any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office,
under the gate. Be aware that sometimes certain windows will
only sell certain types of ticket. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets
you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the
more ancient buildings.Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, 10:00 - 18:00,
closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00,
12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission to the Armoury Chamber
200-700Rbl. Admission to the Cathedral Square (5 museums
and cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace, exhibitions in the As-
sumption Belfry) 100-350Rbl. Audioguide 200Rbl. Tickets can
be purchased an hour before the seance in the museum’s
ticket office at the Kutafiya Tower and in Aleksandrovsky Sad.
Kremlin Armoury С-4, Krasnaya pl., MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. You need
a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum
purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection
of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. They
also hold a collection of the infamous and rarely glimpsed
Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets
can only be used after the time printed on them. They do
not give access to the rest of the site. Q Armoury Chamber
has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Closed Thu.
Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance (in the
museum’s ticket office). Admission 200-700Rbl.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Hello Lenin!
Lenin Mausoleum D-4, Krasnaya pl., MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. On
display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body
of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is
a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner
to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during
the viewing. Join the super-long queue at the entrance to
Red Square nearest to the Alexander Gardens. No bags.
No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure
you don’t sneak anything - he may be dead but there’s
not messing with him. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors.QOpen 10:00
- 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission free.
Uspenskiy sobor (Cathedral of Assumption) C-4,
Krasnaya pl., MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697
03 49, www.kreml.ru. The grandfather of all the Kremlin
church es, th e As-
sumption Cathedral
is the oldest and the
biggest. Built in 1475
by Italian architect
Aristotle Fiorovanti,
this is wh ere I van
t h e Te r r i b l e wa s
crown e d Emp eror
in 1547 before be-
coming a stable for
Napoleon’s horses
in 1812. Their sol-
diers made off with
the chandliers now hanging overhead, some of which are
so hefty that they weigh over five tonnes. The cossacks
brought them back after they caught up with the lightfin-
gered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held
here. Services resumed in 1990.QOpen 10.00 - 17.00.
Closed Thu. Admission the Cathedral Sqaure (5 museums-
cathedrals, the Patriarch’s Palace, exhibitions in the As-
sumption Belfry) 100-350Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Churches and Monasteries
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour B-5, Ul. Volkhonka
15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.
xxc.ru. This is what a new Rus-
sian orthodox church ought to
look like. It is so immense you’ll
be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviet’s needed
to get rid of the thing the first
time around. That was in 1931.
This newly restored example
came into being from 1994 until
2000 and is a shiny beacon for
the Russian Orthodox Church at
home. Buy your candles to the left
of the entrance way, photos and souvenirs to the right. The
walls are decorated with lists of awards, battles, list of those
perished and awarded in the war with Napoleon in 1812 are
inscribed once more upon the walls. The sprawling cathedral
also houses a museum on the history of the site, as well as
a car wash (yes, really) in the basement. During excursions
(minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum
and the collonade. As it is a working place of worship women
are expected to cover their heads and everyone should dress
conservatively. No cameras or mobile phones should be used.
Q Open 10:00 - 17:00. Admission free. Tours in English 600Rbl
per person (min. 10 people), pre-booking recquired call (+7) 495
637 28 47) Services are held daily at 08;00 and 17:00, extra
services on Sat 09:00, Sun 10:00.
Donskoy Monastery Donskaya pl. 1, MShabolovs-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 49 01, www.donskoi.org. The
late sixteenth century saw the founding of this well-kept
monastery, originally part of Moscow’s fortifications. The
surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the
main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you
enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox
Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded
by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very
popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century
miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside
the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour
of the Church’s efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII),
although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th
Century churches. The adjoining cemetary is also a worthy
historical site dating back to the 17th Century. Excursions
can be organised around the walls and towers. Q Open daily
08:00 - 19:00. Necropolis 08:30 - 18:30. Services at 07.40,
16.40. Admission free. Guided tours only for groups from 20
to 45 people 250Rbl per person by prior arrangement, for
booking call (+7) 499 952 02 53.
Novodevichy Monastery Novodevichy proezd 1, MS-
portivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26, www.shm.ru. Mon-
astery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place
in Russian history. On the
grounds surrounded by the
Kremlinesque walls are four
cathedrals including the
majestic four-onion globes
of Smolensky Cathedral.
Founded by Ivan the Ter-
rible in 1524, it was here
that Peter the Great impris-
oned his sister Sophia and
executed her supporters from the Strelsty rebellion. Today
it is a magnificient and peaceful cloister with an impressive
icon collection. Q Open 10.00 - 17.30. Closed Tue, last Mon
of the month. Admission 100-150Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
sightseeing 43
State History Museum
State History Museum C-4, Red Square 1/2, MTeat-
ralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Right on
Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an
extensive foray into Russian
history from the middle ages
of the mammoths right up
to the 19th century. Each
individual hall complements
its inhouse exhibition, such
as the Novgorod and Vladmir
Halls with their vivid recon-
structions. The atmosphere
is conducive to both wandering and musing as the museum
guides are, lets say, a little less protective than usual. Upstairs
while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance
of cool historical titbits. Like the boots big enough to hide
a small child which are worn to get through a swamp. The
elegant side of Russian life is given slightly more space than
the peasantry but their role in history garners them several
rooms toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and
revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are
English leaflets that you can request from the counter as
you enter that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the
second. There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor)
at a cost of 100Rbls (deposit another200Rbls) or you can
buy a hefty printed guidebook.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue, first Mon of the month. Admission
60-250Rbl. Excursion in English, French by prior arrangement,
700-1,000Rbl per group (max 15 people), 1,400Rbl for the
gold exhitbiton. PAU
Gold. Metal of Gods and King of Metals
This huge new permanent exhibition from the State His-
torical museum is the largest hoarding of such treasure in
Moscow. Split into three parts, the first part of the exhibition;
‘Metal Gods’ deals with gold in religious worship. Orthodox
crosses, icons, books and marriage crowns sit alongside
religious paraphernalia from other Christian denominations
as well as Jewish household items and synagogue designs,
Islamic art and Buddhists and Chinese amulets and statues.
The second part focuses on gold as a symbol of power and
displays the gold wealth of the Tsars who had everything
from golden swords and medals to golden plates and snuff
boxes. The final part of the exhibition is themed around gold
as a symbol of wealth and luxury and has ornamental items
from across Europe and Russia all the way to the Orient with
a definite highlight being the priceless Bronze age jewellery
dating from the 1st Century BC and the Faberge eggs.
St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky) D-4, Krasnaya pl. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.saintbasil.
ru. Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St.
Basil’s cathedral. Russia’s most
recognised building was built in
1561 to celebrate Ivan the Ter-
rible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of
Kazan. While the view from outside
is spectacular and rightly famed,
it is certainly also worth a visit
inside, as it’s a warren of corridors,
small halls, icons and frescoes.Q
Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 50-150Rbl, (180Rbl
from June 01 to August 31). Guided
tours for up to 20 people 2,450Rbl
(2,900Rbl - from June 01 to August
31) by prior arrangement. Photo 160Rbl, video 180Rbl.
August - September 2010
44 sightseeing
Spoiled for choice, Moscow is chock full of museums on ab-
solutely every theme, activity and personality, from medieval
to modern art and Lev Tolstoy to Vladimir Lenin.
Museums
Andrey Rublyev Museum of Ancient Russian Culture
and Art Andronevskaya pl. 10, MPloshchad Ilyicha, tel.
(+7) 495 678 14 67, www.rublev-museum.ru. Housed in the
grounds of Andronikov Monastery, this museum is dedicated to
the art of the Russian icon throughout the ages. Although none of
the famed Rublyev’s work is here, the icons in the collection are
still beautiful. Preservation is paramount for icons and many are
still shining brightly despite their age. Spread out over three floors
of the restored St. Michael’s chapel,a ghostly feeling still inhabits
the place. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed and last Fri of
the month. Admission foreigners 300Rbl, Russians 30-150Rbl.
Borodino Battle Panorama Museum Kutuzovsky
pr. 38, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 148 19 27,
www.1812panorama.ru. Founded 150 years after one of the
most famous battles in
human history the Boro-
dino Battle museum is
not to be missed. It has
a collection of weapons,
ammunition, uniforms
and graphics, but the
main feature is the round
canvas painting, 115m
wid e an d 15m hi gh.
Standing in the middle of
this panorama you experience up close the heroic (and bloody)
battle during the 1812 war between Russia and Napoleon’s
Grand Army in the days before CNN. The epic battle, which took
place September 07, 1812, west of Moscow, was one of the
war’s decisive encounters. 250,000 soldiers took part, of which
a minimum of 67,000 perished. After Borodino Napoleon took
Moscow, the city he left soon after it was set on fire. The Rus-
sian army led by General Kutuzov then chased the French all the
way to Paris. The Panorama museum is located at Kutuzovsky
Prospekt, where you also can find the 28m high Triumphal arch
devoted to the war with Napoleon. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Fri. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 10:00 - 21:00 (April -
September), 10:00 - 20:00 (October - March). Closed Fri, last
Thu of the month. Admission foreigners 50-150Rbl, Russians
0-90Rbl. Guided tours in English (up to 30 people) 2,100Rbl per
group plus admission fee by prior arrangement.
Cold War Museum (Bunker 42 on Taganka) F-5, 5-y
Kotelnichesky per. 11, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 500 05
54, bunker42.com. This top secret bunker is located 18 floors
beneath Moscow in the Taganskaya area. So close to the metro,
there are not only adjoining
tunnels but carriages rat-
tling past fill the concrete
passageways with a whole
lot of groaning noisy sound.
Decommmissioned and
sold off at auction, this ex-
military communications
post is now a museum
dedicated to the Cold War.
Complete with KGB rooms (now rehearsal space for heavy metal
bands), raid sirens, and kilometres of tunnels, this is the real
experience. Not recommended for claustrophobes, but definitely
for the curious and historically inquisitive. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Admission foreigners 1,200-2,000Rbl, Russians 650-1,100Rbl.
As part of tour groups only. Tours avaliable in English, German,
French, Spanish, require advance booking. PN
Moscow In Your Pocket
Contemporary Russian History Museum B-2, Ul.
Tverskaya 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24,
www.sovr.ru. Start early in the day with this one. There’s
a whole century of the most turbulent, convuluted, well
documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a
1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English
Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revou-
tion. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum,
covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts
are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the
experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase
or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and
Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Rus-
sia’s answer to the Beatles. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu,
Sat 11.00 - 19.00, Sun 11.00 - 17.00. Closed Mon and last
Fri of the month. Admission 70-100Rbl.
Cosmonautics Museum Mira pr. 111, MVDNKHa,
tel. (+7) 495 682 57 60. This is a place for space fanat-
ics. Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Union’s
race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of
all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original
space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of
part of the Mir space station, photos and documents from
famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin and plenty of
artworks relating to man's obsession with conquering
space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in space Belka
and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods that they flew
around the earth in. There’s also a café serving space food
and some 3-D shows (for which you have to pay extra). Q
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Admission 20Rbl-
100Rbl. Excursions in English, French by prior arrangement
by phone (+7) 495 683 18 26.
Fyodor Shalyapin’s Memorial Estate Novinskiy
bulvar 25-27, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 605 62
36, w w w.glinka.museum. Fyodor Shalyapin’s name
an d voi c e rin gs ou t
over Russian th ea t-
rical cul tural histor y
like no oth er - h e is
essentiall y the Anna
Pavolva of the opera
worl d. Fin din g fam e
in roles such as Bo-
ris Godunov and Don
Quixote, he performed
to immense acclaim
across Europe, thanks par tl y to his par ticipation in
Diaghilev’s 1909 Russian seasons. This 18th Century
house which he had restored and made his Moscow
home, is full of relics from his famous friends such as
Rachmaninov and Levitan who met him here and is also
a simply beautiful example of early 20th Century style,
full of exquisite bureaus, chaise lounges, silk wallpaper
and even an old gramophone. Ask the women to turn on
recordings of his singing to make the whole experience
even more atmospheric. Q Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. Admission 50-100Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Ul. Bratyev
Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) (495) 449 80 44,
www.poklonnayagora.ru. Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War,
this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the
Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle
dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the
scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Com-
manders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory,
a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition
hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.
Q Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon, last Thurs of the month.
Admission 0-100Rbl. If you’re after a tour in English, it is best
to book a week in advance. Because there are a lot of military
holidays in April and May, if planning a visit then, you need to
book two months in advance. Group 1-5 people - 1,000Rbl/per
group, 6-10 people 1,500Rbl/per group, 10-20 people 2,400Rbl.
Gulag Histor y Museum C-3, Ul. Petrovka 16,
MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 621 73 46, www.
gmig.ru. The full com-
prehension of the Gulag
is a discomforting experi-
ence to say the least and
the lack of English will
do little to prevent you
from being thoroughly
chilled by the tragic story
this museum has to tell.
There are three parts; a
documentary part show-
ing the repression of different groups such as the church and
the kulak peasants. Artistic responses to the gulag from ex-
prisoners adorn the walls, entrance and staircase and there is
a reproduction of a gulag barracks, punishment cell and officers
rooms downstairs. The fact that this part is sealed off and the
guide has to escort you here adds sobriety and realism to the
exhibit. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon.
Admission foreigners 100Rbl, Russian 10-50Rbl. Excursions in
English by prior arrangement. P
History of Moscow Museum D-3, Novaya pl. 12, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 84 90, www.mosmuseum.ru. Two
rooms outline the history of Moscow from medieval farming
ground to the building of the Kremlin through to the rise of com-
mercial Moscow in the 19th century. It is hard to grasp the full
impact without any English descriptions, though you can buy a
booklet for 10Rbls in the first room. The second room has no Eng-
lish but is very visual and evocative with shop fronts presenting
different industries . Q Open 10.00 - 18.00, Wed 11:00 - 21:00,
Fr 11.00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri
of the month. Admission foreigners 70Rbl, Russians 30-50Rbl.
Icon House Museum on Spiridonovka B-3, Ul. Spiri-
donovka 4, MArbatskaya, tel.(+7) 495 690 54 74, www.
dom-ikony.ru. If you are at all interested in icons this place is a
must visit as they have one of the best icon collections in the
city. In their collection are
over two thousand pieces of
art, including rare icons such
as the 15th Century icon of
Theotokos of Georgia and
icons belonging to Russia’s
last Tsar. The iconography on
display includes works from
numerous epochs regions
and painting schools and in the restoration workshop at the
weekend you can see some of Russia’s greatest experts apply-
ing their skills. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission
150Rbl. Excursions in English, call min 1 day in advance, 4,000Rbl
per group (max 15 people). PA
moscow.inyourpocket.com
sightseeing 45
Russia's Romanovs
Romanov Boyar House in Zaryadye D-4, Ul.
Varvarka 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 56,
www.shm.ru. Before they were the Tsars of All Russia,
the Romanovs were a rich boyar (merchant) family with
a manor not far from the Kremlin. The house of Nikita
Romanovich Yuryev was first recorded on a map in 1597.
After four centuries, it is now preserved as a small and
thoroughly interesting museum. The models and exhibits
recreate the daily life of that time. The men’s floor with
the room for the elder sons and the upper women’s floor
where a maximum amount of windows ensured some
productivity at the loom say much about the culture.
English texts in all the rooms provide insight into each
making a visit here enjoyable and educational. Q Open
10:00 - 18:00, Wed 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue, first Mon
of the month. Admission 140Rbl. Guided tours for up 10
people 700-1,000Rbl per group plus admission fee must
be booked in advance.
Moscow State Museum Burganov’s House B-4, Bol.
Afanasyevsky per. 15/9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 04 29, www.burganov.ru. This is hands down one of
the most inspiring artistic spaces in Moscow and referring
to it as a “museum,” does it a grave injustice. Burganov’s
House is first and foremost the functioning workshop of
Alexander Burganov (1935 -), one of Russia’s most famous
living sculptors. His contemporary masterpieces, which can
also be seen in many European capital cities, greet you from
trees, windowsills and the neighboring buildings surrounding
the house’s courtyard - a type of open-air sculpture garden.
Inside the house, Burganov’s smaller works, including several
paintings, are on display. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Admission
foreigners 120Rbl, Russians 60Rbl.
Museum of Unique Dolls C-3, Ul. Pokrovka 13/2,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 64 05, www.dollmu-
seum.ru. The art of doll making in Russia, Germany and England
over the last two centuries recieves special attention here.
Even though there are just two rooms, these glass cabinets are
packed with an army of traditional wax, plastic and cloth figures.
Noteworthy exhibits are the Japanese dolls at their Shinto temple
and the Swedish dolls with a three-faced head. The more than
6,000 items, also includes English doll’s houses and a studio
where they restore dolls. QOpen . Closed Mon. Open 10:00 -
18:00 (closed from 14:00 - 14:30). Admission free. Excursions
are available if booked one week to a month in advance. Price
per group of 15 foreigners 4,800Rbl.
Polytechnical Museum D-3, Novaya pl. 3/4, entr. 1,
MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 06 14, www.polymus.
ru. This enormous museum covers the whole of Russia’s
advance towards the technological age. The history of the
development of hundreds of everyday useful things such
as the TV, radio, light bulb and the clock is illustrated with
thousands of antique samples. As well as beautiful Zenit
cameras, huge gramophones, original Thomas Edison pho-
tos and Pathe cinema projectors, there are also models of
drilling equipment, nuclear powers stations and 50 year old
space food. Fans of Soviet design will be beside themselves
when they see the Soviet versions of the Sony Walkman and
Yamaha keyboard. Up on the top floor there is one of the
world’s oldest computers from the late 1950s along with
the first (very ugly) Apple Mac and the museum’s very own
robo-guide from the 1970s. Most information is in English.
Q Open 10.00 - 18.00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month.
Admission 40-100Rbl.
August - September 2010
46 sightseeing
Pushkin Fine Arts Museum B-5, Ul. Volkhonka 12,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 95 78, www.
artsmuseum.ru. Opened to
the public in 1912, this mu-
seum was primarily intended
as an educational facili ty.
Coming from the fashion of
that time, it houses a lot of
the world’s ar t in the form
of plaster casts. It also has
works by the Old Masters
and representatives of vari-
ous European sch ools of
painting. 1924 saw the first
addition of a picture gallery,
to be followed in 1948 by the
addition of many works from
19th century. It’s a manage-
able musuem, but be sure to know which section you are
heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose
structure houses the old plastery cast bit The impression-
ists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate
admission charge. Be warmed that the Audio guide can be
temperamental as there are recordings for each hall in the
classics section but also individual listings of paintings but
for only half that actually have the headset symbol. This
is the only English available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Thu
10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50-300Rbl.
Sakharov Museum Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKur-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru.
Thought provoking and contem-
plative, this museum should be
on the list for those interested in
the life of Sakharov, Russia’s No-
bel Peace Prize winning physicist
and human rights campaigner.
The upstairs museum room
hosts five informative displays
(it is a very contemporary place)
discussing the establishment of
the Soviet regime, the beginning
of dissent, the repercussions,
the results (Gulag) and the
aftermath. The displays are mainly photographic, but there is
some installation. While all information is original and therefore
in Russian, the museum provides extensive information on each
display in English as well as an additional guidebook. Downstairs
is a library and reading room. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Closed
Mon. Admission free.
Tretyakov Gallery at Krymsky Val B-6, Krymsky Val 10,
MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www.tretyakovgal-
lery.ru. Dedicated to Russian art of the twentieth century, this is
the extension part of the Tretyakov project. And a worthy addition it
is. Stunningly presented, each work contributes to the chronologi-
cal project. Head up to the fourth floor to begin with the Moscow
modernists. Not only is this venue, in terms of English, one of the
friendliest, it is also very well presented. Everything is explained in
English and as well as the canvas texts there are several multime-
dia and video representations providing a historical and political
framework to understanding the pieces. Most impressive is the
video of the destruction of the Cathedral, right near to a full screen
window from where you can see the site today. Another benefit is
that it allows the enthusiast to see the Soviet era as the long and
complex process it was, full of difficult and conflicting attitudes and
ideas and stages. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed Mon. Admission
foreigners 180-300Rbl, Russians 70-150Rbl. English audio guide
300Rbl. Excursions in English, German, French, for booking call (+7)
495 953 52 23. PU
Moscow In Your Pocket
Tretyakovskaya Gallery D-5, Lavrushinsky per.10,
MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 77 88, www.tretya-
kovgallery.ru. For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of
the famous ‘Russian soul’, the
Tretyakov Gallery is the place
to start. Founded in 1856
by influential merchant and
collector Pavel Tretyakov and
presented as a gift to the city in
1892, it is the world’s number
one museum of Russian art.
Ranging from exquisite and
mysterious 12th century icons
to the politically charged and
prescient canvases of Rus-
sia’s favourite realist master,
Ilya Repin, the collection is a
rich and revealing insight into
the history and attitudes of
this long suffering yet inspired
people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use
of the A3-size laminated information sheets found through-out
the museum; there is always at least one English version hid-
den amongst the Russian ones! The gallery does not include
the museum’s twentieth century collection, which is kept at a
separate site a kilometre away. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30. Closed
Mon. Admission foreigners 180-300Rbl, Russians 70-150Rbl.
English audio guide 300Rbl. Excursions in English, German,
French, for booking call (+7) 495 953 52 23. PU
Viktor Vasnetsov Memorial Museum D-1, Vasnetsov
per. 13, MSukharevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 13 29, www.
tretyakovgallery.ru. Incongruously plonked down in amongst a
group of Soviet high-rises sits Viktor Vasntesov’s romantic little
wooden house. Decorated in colourful revivalist style, it is a gem
for those who are fans of Russian mythological art a la Repin or
Roerich with a sprinkling of Tolkien fantasy. The downstairs of
the house contains the romantic wooden living rooms complete
with real stone oven, while the huge attic houses some of the
painter’s most famous oversized fairytale paintings. Q Open
10.30 - 17.00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thurs of the month. Admis-
sion foreigners 150-250Rbl, Russians 50-100Rbl.
Vodka Museum Izmailovskoe shosse 73zh, MPartizans-
kaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. The
Vodka Museum is located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin. Once you
reach the Ismailovsky market entrance, just follow the signs. The
museum only has one
floor, and it’s not very big.
But you should still expect
to spend about an hour
and half looking around.
The exhibits give you the
detailed and fun history
of vodka in Russia and
tell you about the role it
plays in Russian society.
You will learn that it has
changed the course of
history in Russia on more
than one occassion. The
museum boasts 700 different small exhibits, and the collection
of different Vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the
regular tour a complimentary shot is of couse included! After
the tour you can also arrange to attend a vodka degustation
and buy your favourite brands. All information and signs at the
museum are also in English. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00. Admisson
foreigners 100Rbl, Russians 50Rbl. Excursions in English, call min
5 days in advance (150Rbl/person foreigners, 100Rbl/person
Russians). PAL
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Lyrical City
Bulgakov House A-2, Ul. Bolshaya-Sadovaya 10,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 775 94 61, www.
dombulgakova.ru. Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this
is where Bulgakov, the author of Master and Margarita lived
and wrote his famous novel. Today it is a tiny artist gathering
place with exhibitions of contemporary Russian artists and
a historical exhibition dedicated to the house’ most famous
inhabitant. Night tours of Bulgakov’s Moscow from 01:00
until 06:00 on Friday and Saturday nights taking in the sights
of old Moscow familiar to Bulgakov and his friends and the
novel, while good tours are also available during the day. The
resident feline Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and
there’s even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies. Q Open
13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 01:00. Admission free. Tour
in English (100-1,300Rbl) can be arranged in advance (call a
week or so in advance to arrange). LK
Chekhov Museum A-3, Ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya 6,
MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, goslitmuz.ru.
Chekhov never went out of
favour even during the Soviet
years. His museum opened
here for the first time in 1953,
and underwent a spring clean
in 2003. The objects remain
au thentic, a little too au-
thentic when you see the
tiny metal bed he slept on. It
was from this red castle-like
house that he left to go on
his epic jaunt to Sakhalin, at
that time the journey took
around three months. It was
here that the music lover, who
lived here with his mother,
brother Mikhail and sister Maria, received patients, continuing
his work as a doctor. Tchaikovsky came to thank him for the
personal dedication in his book Gloomy People. Also upstairs
there are exhibitions following the life of the great writer and
a suprising number of photos and a display showing differ-
ent dramatic productions of his plays around the world. Q
Open 11:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon,
Sun. Admission foreigners 60-100Rbl, Russians 30-50Rbl.
Dostoevsky Memorial Museum Ul. Dostoevskogo 2,
MMendeleevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 681 61 54, goslitmuz.
ru. Dostoevsky is usually
associated with St. Peters-
burg but in fact he grew up
in Moscow. His father was
posted to the city’s hospital
for the poor and this small
apartment, attached to the
hospital, was given to him
and his family. The austere
rooms are demonstrative of
Dostoevsky’s lower middle
class upbringing and are
lovingly tended to by the
Dostoevsky-loving museum
staff. If you have the time
they can philosophise about
the great writer for hours. The second undecorated wing of the
flat houses a collection of banned illustrations made for his
books in the 1930s as well as a desk (filled with his notes), that
he wrote the Brothers Karamazov on. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Wed, Fri 14:00 - 12:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last day of the
month. Admission 60-100Rbl foreigners, 30-50Rbl Russians.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
sightseeing 47
Gorky Memorial Museum B-3, Ul. Mal. Nikitskaya
6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35, imli.ru.
Designed by one of Russia’s most celebrated art nouveau
architects Fyodor Schechtel in 1900 the Ryabushinsky Man-
sion is most famous as the former home of writer Maxim
Gorky. This magical building is full of beautiful stained glass
windows, a spectacular marble ‘wave’ staircase and exquisite
carved oak panelling and is worth a visiting just for aesthetic
reasons. There is extensive written material available in each
room giving insight into Gorky’s life in the house, his tastes
in décor and ornaments and there are some stories about
the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the
Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the
writer’s union, that list includes everyone from Mayakovsky
to Tolstoy. Q Open 11.00 - 18.00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Thu
of the month. Admission free.
Lev Tolstoy Memorial Estate in Khamovniki A-6,
Ul. Lva Tolstogo 21, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 499 246
94 44, www.tolstoymuseum.ru. The house where Tolstoy
and his family lived after leaving his family estate and moving
to Moscow in the 1881
has been kept in pristine
condition. You almost ex-
pect them the Tolstoys
to come inside and sit
down to dinner or Sofia
Tolstoya to serve tea from
the samovar or to see Leo
stomping up the staircase
to his study to write a few
more pages of War and
Peace. This place makes
clear how the family spent
their time, including dis-
plays and exhibits of the
shoes that Tolstoy made
himself. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, last Fri of the month. Admission
foreigners 60-200Rbl, Russians 60-120Rbl.
Mayakovsky Museum D-3, Lubyansky proezd 3/6,
bldg. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 621 65 91, www.
mayakovsky.info. This is one for fans of the great man.
An ode to surrealism, this museum is a structural rendition
of Mayakovsky’s life and works and is spread out over four
floors. It is a shame that tours are only available in Russian
as the presentation of the exhibits is superb. From childhood,
through to fame and his eventual suicide, there’s industrial
installations, theatre playbills, scraps of poetry and phot-
graphs and at the end, a collection of several Soviet busts
of the poet. Q Open 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 20:00.
Closed Wed, last Fri of the month. Admission foreigners
90Rbl, Russians 20-50Rbl.
Pushkin Memorial flat A-5, Ul. Arbat 53, MSmolens-
kaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 22 46, www.pushkinmuseum.
ru. Given Pushkin’s unfortunate demise in a duel fighting for
his wife’s honour, it seems fitting that the house where he
spent his honeymoon is now a memorial museum. Moving
into the Arbat street house at the beginning of February, he
even held his stag night here. In a bid to engender some of the
atmosphere of the time, the rooms are filled with portraits of
his contemporaries and letters although not alot of Pushkin’s
belongings remain in situ apart from his writing desk. The desk
with his ink stand with a negro boy standing between two gold
cotton bails is the star feature. English texts are provided to
give a little extra clarity. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00. Sat 10:00
- 20:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Fri of the month. Admission
foriegners 80-100Rbl, Russians 20-80Rbl.
August - September 2010
48 sightseeing sightseeing 49

Gorky Park B-7, Ul. Krimsky Val 9, MPark Kultury,

Galleries
Moscow Museum of Mod-
ern Art C-3, Ul. Petrovka 25,
MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.
ru. Based in three locations, this
building is the main hub of the
MMOMA and its great garden
of witty sculptures by Tsereteli
(Moscow’s contemporar y ar t
guardian and self-promoter) offers
a stunning introduction to the con-
temporary Moscow art scene on
the way in. The Museum’s aim is
to preserve Russia’s avant-garde
tradition and they are constantly
adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filinovs, Kandinskys
and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent
collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late
Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. As
well as exhibits from new Russian artists, there are also regular
exhibits from non-Russian contemporary artists. Exhibition
halls at Ermolaevsky per 11 (metro Mayakovskaya), Tverskoy
bul. 9 (Pushkinskaya), Gogolevsky bul. 10 (Kropotkinskaya).Q
Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed last Mon of the
month. Admission foreigners 100-150Rbl, Russians 0-150Rbl.
Entrance may be more for special exhibitions. Guided tours in
English, French for groups (up to 30 people) 1,200Rbl per group
by prior arrangement by phone (+7) 495 231 44 06. PU
Garage Centre for Contemporary Culture Ul. Ob-
raztsova 19A, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. +7 (495) 645
05 20, www.garageccc.com. Founded by Russian socialite
Daria Zhukova, Garage is a huge constructivist ex-bus depot,
that has been turned into one of the most successful con-
temporary art spaces in Moscow. As well as hosting massive
exhibitions from world stars such as Anthony Gormley, the
space is also used to get the general public involved in the
city’s emerging art’s scene. Also has an excellent cheap café.
Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Fri - Sun 11:00 - 22:00. Admission
100-200Rbl. Excursions in English, French, German by prior
arrangement. PU
Red October Chocolate Factory C-6, Bersenevskaya
nab. 6, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 230 39 30. One
of Moscow’s most beloved manufacturers - the Red October
Chocolate Factory, moved to a site further out of the centre a
few years ago and as the old building’s conversion into a luxury
residential complex slowed down, the artists moved in. The
current residents include the Pobeda Gallery and the Lumiere
Brothers Photgraphy Centre who focuse on local and interna-
tional photographers. The Art Strelka design college has also
just recently moved into the area and regularly has lectures
and workshops as well as concerts on their outdoor stage.
On the food/drink side, this place is very happening with the
Mao restaurant a particular highlight, while the Rolling Stone
Tattoo bar takes care of the sex, drugs and rock’n’roll and
Strelka bar, Rai club and Progressive Daddy cover the glam
factor. Q Galleries closed on Mon. Admission 100-200Rbl.
Winzavod 4-y Siromyatnichesky per. 1 bldg 6, MCh-
kalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru.
A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspirations
on an industrial factory lot. There are over ten galleries with
exhibitions varying from Russian photography to American
and British works. There are also artists studios, an alter-
native clothes shop and a cafe. The location and industrial
surroundings gives the feeling of being on the movie studio
back lot. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
City Tours
Capital Tours D-4, Gostiny Dvor, Ul. Ilyinka 4, entrance
No.6 (go down the stairs), office 21, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 232 24 42, www.capitaltours.ru. Offer-
ing a Kremlin tour and Moscow City bus tour, this is a good
bet if you are looking to maximise your time. The Kremlin
tour takes in the grounds, cathedrals and the Patriarchs
Palace. The bus tour takes in a wider part of Moscow and
technically you can hop and off it, although the buses don’t
go that often so i’ts best just to stay on the bus and suffice
yourself with the 20 minute photo-taking/souvenir-buying
break on the top of the Sparrow hills. The guides are very
knowledgeable and have enough facts in the back of their
heads to get you through even the worst Moscow traffic jam.
All tours are conducted in English and include entrance fees.
Booking in advance is recommended (there’s even online
reservation). QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Point of departure:
Capital Tour’s office. Kremlin walking tour costs 1,550Rbl,
children 775Rbl, leaving at 14:00, except Thu. Taganka
Secret Bunker tour 1,400Rbl, 1,100Rbl children, leaving on
Thu only at 14:00. Moscow All Around bus tour 1,000Rbl,
children 500Rbl, leaving daily at 10:30, 13:30, 15:30 from
Bolshoy Theater bus stop (next to Karl Marx monument).
Moscow Mania tel. (+7) 903 158 34 56, www.
mosmania.com. This wonderful tour guide company offer
everything from the classic Kremlin/ Red Square orienta-
tion tours to things much more off the beaten track. We
particularly like the ‘old charming Moscow’ tour and the
‘Moscow mysteries’ tours which introduce you to more no-
torious elements of Moscow’s history. There are also Soviet
themed tours, visits to local galleries, tours to the top of the
Ostankino tower and they can tailor make a tour for you if
you have a certain interest in mind. Guided tours in English,
German for groups (3-20 people). QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Walking tours 300Rbl, private guide 500-1,000Rbl/hour. N
Moscow River Boat Tour Boats leave from the river
stop outside the Evropeisky Shopping Centre, just north
of the Bogdana Khmelniktskogo (crystal) Bridge, MKi-
evskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 60 70, www.cck-ship.ru. An
hour and half’s tour along the Moscow River takes you past
all the main Moscow sights making it a must see excursion
for any city visitor. Boats make stops at different sightseeing
points along the way, including Moscow University - Sparrow
Hills, the Kremlin, Gorky Park and the Neskuchny Gardens.
If you want to get off, explore the area, and hop back on
another boat later, you better buy a full-day pass, or else,
once you disembark, that is the end of your ride. The tour
begins at the crystal pedestrian bridge near Kievsky train
station and ends at the Novospassky Bridge, across the
river from the Swissotel Krasnye Holmi. You can also board
from Novospassky and end at Kievsky. Q Admission adults
400Rbl, children 150Rbl. All day passes with unlimited stops,
800Rbl, and 200Rbl. Navigation from April to October and
boats leave every 15 minutes.
Parks and Palaces
All Russia Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Pr. Mira
119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, w w w.
v vcentr e.ru. T hi s
spra wlin g c ompl ex
of pavillion buildings
whose glory is fading
fast, long walk ways
and elaborate foun-
tains is a throwback
to the Soviet era of
glorification. The 90
or so pavillions built
to house displays of progress of the great collectivisation
of the farms now host a variety of commerical enterprises
and some are not that different to what is found in the
metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its
dancing maidens each dedicated to a Soviet republic
looks like a cross between a Hindi goddess creation and
C3PO’s lost robot brides. Come weekends it is crawling
with people on two legs, two skates or two wheels. Rental
of rollerblades (roliki) and bicycles are on either sides of
the grand entrance. If someone invites you to go to VDNKh
- they mean this place or the metro station opposite that
goes by the same name. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Pavil-
ions 10:00 - 18:00, 10:00 - 19:00 (Sep - Apr, weekends).
Admission free.
Arkhangelskoe Country Estate 5Km Ilinskoe Shosse,
M Tushinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 363 13 75,
w w w.arhangelskoe.
org. This sprawling 18th
Century countryside es-
tate once belonged to the
exceptionally rich Prince
Yusupov and is one of
the quietest stately parks
within a reasonable dis-
tance of the ci ty. The
buildin gs th emsel ves
usually house historical
and contemporary exhibitions from the local scene. In the
summer it’s a great place to take a walk by the Moscow river
and do some fishing or have a picnic and in the winter it‘s a
romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh)
ride. The formal gardens, which offer excellent views towards
the surrounding countryside, are dotted with neo-classical
sculptures, hidden summer pavillions, ice-cream stands and
the odd Shetland pony or camel. GETTING THERE: From
metro Tushinskaya take mini-bus N549, 541 or 151. On
a good day it takes about 20minutes. Q Park open daily
10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Museums open
10:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 18:00, closed Mon, Tue,
last Wed of the month. Park admission foreigners 240Rbl,
Russians 40-80Rbl. Museums admission foreigners 140Rbl,
Russians 30-50Rbl.
Botanical Garden Aptekarsky Ogorod E-1, Pr. Mira
26, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 680 58 80. Founded
on the order of Peter the Great in 1706, these gardens
are over 300 years old. Over the years, the gardens have
witnessed all the turns of history, falling into disrepair during
the soviet years. Major reconstruction works were carried
out in the 1900s. Today the orangerie with its tropical palms
is a drawcard as well as the carp pond, and the immense
trees that dot the landscape. Several restaurants and cafes
operate here making it a handy spot for relaxation whatever
the season. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 50-100Rbl.
tel. (+7) 495 237 07 07. If you thought the days where
grown women walked
around toting stuffed
toys (and men winning
said toys for them) were
over, visit the one and
only gargantuan Gorky
Park. Depending on the
season, the rides can
seem like the best thing
since square bread or
desperately sad. They
are all working even if they have one child. Imitation space flights
and gravity defying stunts, beer kiosks, miniature trains, this
place is for kids big and small. Q Open daily 10:00 - 22:00.
Amusement park 12:00 - 19:00. Admission 20-80Rbl.
Hermitage Garden C-2, Ul. Karetny Ryad 3, MChek-
hovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 08 49, www.mosgorsad.ru.
While not the largest of Moscow’s gardens, the Hermitage is
a delightful green space
in the centre. You can
find here the Hermitage
Theatre, Chaikhona no.1
restaurant with its deck
of cushions and even a
pigeon and dove nesting
box (with very fat and
fluffy birds). Well cared for,
there are several charm-
ing seating areas and beautiful cherry blossoms in the Spring.
Q 24 hrs. Admission free.
Izmailovsky Park Narodny pr. 17, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 166 61 19, www.izmailovsky-park.ru.
Once the stomping ground of a teenage Peter the Great
Izmailovo is the largest of Moscow’s parks and is even said
to be the largest park in Europe. It’s got everything you could
want inside - good shashliks (shish kebabs), a ferris wheel,
lakes for boating on, an island (which you can take a boat trip
to), all kinds of rollercoasters, live music and acres of forest
and park land. Before you enter the park you can’t miss the
kitsch Izmailovo market, where all kinds of dodgy traders sell
every kind of Russian souvenir you may ever want, plus pirate
versions of every film you can imagine. Q Park open 24 hrs.
Amusement park 14:00 - 19:00, weekends 12:00 - 20:00.
Kolomenskoye Museum Estate Pr. Andropova 39,
MKolomenskoye, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www.mgomz.
ru. Sprawling and green Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids,
mums and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike.
The gentle sloping hills covered with cherry trees, the abun-
dance of seating and
the wafting aroma of
sizzling shaslik from afar
put visitors in a cheer-
ful mood. Remnants of
this estate’s past life as
a Royal Estate can be
identified in the scatter-
ing of different museums
like beekeeping house
and churches. It’s also UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a
troika ride. Just don’t bring any beer bought from shops outside
of the park or you could end up getting friendly with the police
and making a deposit to their own beer fund. Q Open 08:00 -
22:00. Museums open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free to the estate. Admission foreigners Museum of front gates
300Rbl, belfry 100Rbl, palace 150Rbl.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

50 sightseeing
Kuskovo Park and museum Ul. Yunosti 2, MRyazanskiy
prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 370 01 50, www.kuskovo.ru. Kuskovo
park is one of the oldest country estates in Moscow. It was given to
General Sheremetev by Peter the Great in 1715, but was left to fall
into neglect before being plundered by Napoleon’s troops in 1812.
Nowadays the estate has been restored to its former glory and
is a good example of Russian 18th Century imperial architecture.
Within the estate there’s a large pink cake of a palace looking onto
a lake surrounded by many smaller pavilions (entrance to which
you have to pay extra), one of the most interesting is probably
the one that houses the ceramics museum. On the other side
of the lake is a large wood popular with local cyclists and joggers.
GETTING THERE: From metro Ryazanskiy prospekt cross
the main road and take bus no.113 or 208. Q Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, last Wed of the month. Admission
foreigners 100-250Rbl, Russians 20-150Rbl. Excursions
in Eglish, German by prior arrangement, booking by phone
(+7) 495 375 31 31. UL
Lefortovo Park Ul. Krasnokazarmennaya 3, MBaumans-
kaya, tel. (+7) 499 615
27 68, www.mgomz.ru.
This area, in the east of
the city, lodged all foreign-
ers living in Moscow up
from Tsar Ivan the Terrible
till the 19th century. This
so-called Nemetskaya
Sloboda, Foreign Suburb
/Quarter, was located far
outside the outer city walls. It was from here that Tsar Peter
the Great made his first foreign ‘expat’ friends from western
countries, and not only from Germany (Nemets means German).
He built his own private army, that later became his elite troops,
and started to practice ‘wars’ with modern methods. The area
still houses important military academies, hospitals and other
facilities residing in former palaces. Nowadays you can see
ordinary citizens strolling in the park near the Yauza river and
eating - what else? - shashlyks in the sun. The suburb is also
famous for the Lefortovo prison the KGB used during communist
times. Q Open daily 10:00 - 22:00. Admission free.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Рекалма
Park Pobedy Ul. Bratyev Fomchenko 7, MPark Pobedy.
Constructed in honour of Russia’s victory in the Great Patri-
otic War (World War II), park pobedy (victory) offers powerful
reminders of Russia’s suffering during the war as well as pro-
viding views over the skyscrapers of Moscow. The entrance
to the park is marked by a long promenade surrounded by
fountains, which leads up to a 142 metre high obelisk covered
in representations of scenes from the war. Behind the obelisk
there’s also a war memorial museum and further on down
the hill an exhibition of tanks, war planes and other heavy
weaponry. Beyond that the park stretches on into forest and
down towards a tributary of the Moscow river. Q 24 hours.
Sokolniki Ul. Sokolnicheskiy val 1, bldg. 1, MSokolniki,
tel. (+7) 499 268 54 30, www.park-sokolniki.ru. One
of Moscow’s oldest parks is named after the falcon hunts
conducted by the Tsars. (A sokol is a falcon). Today it’s popular
with families as amusement rides are found here, including a
ferris wheel from which there is a great view and the park is
also the home ground of hockey team HC Spartak Moscow.
Q Open 24hrs. Weekdays free, weekends 20-80Rbl.
Tsaritsino Ul. Dolskaya 10, MTsaritsino, tel. (+7) 495
321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Commissioned by
Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsar-
itsino is the poor cousin
of the Moscow estates
and palaces. Early con-
struction didn’t meet
with the Empress’s ap-
proval and by 1795, af-
ter dismissing the main
architect , the complex
was alread y l ying in
ruins. Over the ensuing
years, it has become a
fashionable country estate, a favourite place for locals to enjoy
picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has
been undergoing renovations. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sun
11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Fri of the month. Admission park free. Museums 20-150Rbl.
Vorobyevi Gory (Sparrow Hills) , MVorobyevi Gory,
www.vorobyovy-gory.ru. Stand and survey over 1000 years
of history. It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon
when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors, not to
mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea of the length
and breadth of the capital from here, as well as seeing which of
Stalin’s Seven Sisters you can make out or play at counting the
gold onion globes. In the summer months the park is a quick
dip into nature, although you also need to be fit to make it up all
the steep stairs in one go. Turn around for a glimpse of the great
promise of education for the people; Moscow State University
(MGU) directly behind you. This building is grand, the rest behind
it are frightfully unspectacular.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
52 see St. Petersburg
St Petersburg’s world-heritage-listed old-town, set on a series of
rivers and canals is one of the most awe-inspiring and extensive
in Europe. There are also some wonderful world-famous imperial
palaces and gardens situated just outside of the city. August
and September is a wonderful time to visit as the city finally
starts to warm up and you can spend hours wandering the
romantic backstreets and watch the city's bridges rise to let
tall ships pass at night.
Essential St. Petersburg
Peter and Paul Fortress Petropavlovskaya krepost 3,
MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmu-
seum.ru. The Fortress is the cradle of the city; St Petersburg’s
first settlement is now a tourist complex housing many muse-
ums and spectacular river-side views. QThe fortress is open
06:00 - 22:00. Museums are closed Wed.
Russian Museum Ul. Inzhenernaya 4/2, MNevsky pr.,
tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. A dazzling
journey from thirteenth century icons to the cream of Russian
avant-garde spread across four stunning palaces.QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Tue.
State Hermitage Museum Dvortsovaya nab. 34 (en-
trance from Dvortsovaya pl.), MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
710 90 79, www.hermitage.ru. The exquisite museum’s
three million items make it one of the most highly esteemed
and unmissable art galleries in the world.QOpen 10:30 - 18:00,
Sun 10:30 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Bridges St. Petersburg is one of the only cities in the world
that is split in two every night from April to December as each
of its 13 bridges is opened. The opening usually starts around
01:30/02:00 and they are then closed again around 05:00.
Watching the show from the banks of the Neva with a bottle of
champagne is an essential (and free) St. Petersburg experience.
Getting There
Trains from leave from Moscow’s Leningradsky station and
generally arrive at Moskovsky station, which is in the middle
of Nevsky prospekt, the city’s main street. The fastest way
to get there is by Sapsan (around four hours) although there
are also dozens of night trains that are considerably cheaper.
Реклама
Реклама
Hotels
Hostel Griboedova 71 D-4, Ul. Kaznacheyskaya 6/13,
MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 69 48, www.griboe-
dova71.ru. Bright new hostel located steps away from the
metro on a canal right in the heart of Dostoevsky territory.
Park Inn Nevsky E-3, Nevsky pr. 89/Ul. Goncharnaya
4, MPl. Vosstanya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10, www.
parkinn.com. The most central of Park Inn’s three hotels
and completly new and shiny both inside and out.Q270
rooms. PJHAGK
Moscow In Your Pocket
Реклама
Park Inn Pribaltiyskaya A-3, Ul. Korablestroiteley
14, MPrimorskaya, tel. (+7) 812 329 26 26, www.
parkinn.com. St. Petersburg’s largest hotel boasts
1200 rooms in one of the most scenic locations, on
the Gulf of Finland, on Primorskaya. The hotel’s exten-
sive facilities even include Indoor Aquapark with water
slides and splash pools to get wet in. Q 1200 rooms
PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhh
Park Inn Pulkovskaya Pl. Pobedy 1, MMoskovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 740 39 00, www.pulkovskaya.parkinn.ru. Located
ten minutes away from the airport, don’t be intimidated by the
size of this large hotel (7 floors, 840 rooms), inside it’s really
friendly and accessible with diverse facilities and great restau-
rants.Q840 rooms. PHAFLGKDCW hhhh
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Sharf Hotel C-2, PS, Maly pr. 16, MSportivnaya, tel.
(+7) 812 324 77 74, www.sharfhotel.ru. Hotel Sharf actually
rents whole apartments at monthly rates. Ideal for business
executives and families who need to stay for monthly periods, the
apartments are spacious with separate bedrooms, and there is
small park nearby. Unique services include on call doctor, nanny
and baker for those special occasions.Q PALGKW
Sokos Hotel Olympia Garden D-4, Bataisky per. 3A,
MTekhnologichesky In., tel. (+7) 812 335 22 70, www.
sokoshotels.fi. For the seasoned business traveler looking
for a hotel that does things right, the Olympic Garden is a
breath of fresh air - heck even the matrasses were designed
using NASA technology.Q348 rooms PJHA6UI�
FLEGKDXW hhhh
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky C-3, 8-ya Liniya 11-13,
MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 90, www.
sokoshotels.fi. The third hotel in St. Petersburg from the
Sokos group brings yet more Finnish style and sophistication
over on tranquil and historic Vasilevsky island. Q255 rooms
PHA6UFLGKDW hhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge C-3, VO, Birzhevoy per.
4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.
sokoshotels.fi. Gorgeous Palace Bridge hotel is a cross
between a slick city warehouse conversion and palatial
hotel. The downstairs lobby holds the entrance to the pride
of the hotel, their Spa and Wellness world. Q324 rooms
PTHA6UIFLGKDCW hhhhh
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Moscovites were born to shop. It‘s just that for a long time,
there wasn‘t anything to buy. Different century, different
story....
Bookshops
Bookhunter E-3, Krivokolenny per. 9, bldg. 1, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 03 22, www.bookhunter.ru.
Located a short walk from the Chisty Prudy metro station,
this handy little bookstore is chock full with books. Fiction
from around the world, history and psychology are all well-
covered subjects. The store also has a wide selection of
English teaching material and large coffee table art and design
books. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A
Dom Inostrannoi Knigi (House of Foreign Books)
D-3, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. This is a floor to ceil-
ing library of English-language books, ranging from Russian
travel guides to recent fiction and paperbacks. Guidebooks
and volumes about art fill the room. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat. 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00 PA
Gileya B-3, Moscow Museum of Modern Art, Tverskoy
bul. 9, MTverskaya, www.gileia.org. Opening on the 5th of
July. For those looking for unusual art books to slam on the cof-
fee table or swoon over for hours. Suitably located inside the
Moscow Museum of Modern Art, this arty shop has books in
several languages and a number of unique handmade limited
edition works. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00.
Closed last Mon of the month.
Respublika A-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10,
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 65 27, www.re-
spublica.ru. The drum and bass soundtrack doesn’t make
the store an attractive place to hole up with a paperback,
but its a good place to buy one! This book/cd shop-meets-
quirky-gift store also has an excellent selection of high-
quality Italian, Japanese, German and French notebooks,
stationary, art and writing utensils. There is also a large
selection of English-language books and monthly maga-
zines. What’s more, you can listen to cds on headphones
upstairs and then hop along to their bright pink cafe for a
wee bite. Q Open 24hrs. Wi-zfi from 11:00 - 23:00 (free)
PJAKW
Gifts and Souvenirs
Dulevsky farfor Ul. Shcherbakovskaya 57/20, MPar-
tizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo.ru/
shop.htm. The shop of this porcelain factory has some really
nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea
sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional,
to 1960s inspired pieces and downright wacky modern sets.
They also have a massive collection of crazy looking porcelain
figurines (naturally). Q Open 10:00 - 20:30. June - September
2 - closed Sun. N
Gorizont - Valenki Factory Shop 2-oy Kozhevniches-
kiy per 12, MPaveletskaya, tel. 495 645 84 64, www.
gorizont.org. Valenki are large felt boots that are as
synonymously Russian as kilts are Scottish. Essentially
designed for walking about the Russian countryside in the
snow, in recent years they have become quite a fashion
accessory and this factory shop has a great collection of
valanki with all kinds of groovy designs embroidered on
them. The baby versions make especially nice souvenirs
and you can also pick up slipper versions of the felt boots
to wear around the house and felt hats to ware in the sauna.
QOpen 09:30 - 20:30. A
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Shopping 53
Shops and Markets
The Sunday upmarket This is not really a flea market as
such as most of the people here are displaying their own
designs and crafty overpriced jewellery type stuff. There are
still some genuine second-handers usually hidden in there
though. Look out for the lady who sells vintage European
handbags and then bargain with her – seems like at the
upmarket you can’t bargain, but as usual in Russia no-body
has any change so in that situation, you almost certainly
can. The market usually takes place every month or two,
check their site for details. And if you are style junkie, bring
your camera – the hipsters here are some of the most quirky
and fashion forward in the city. www.sundayupmarket.ru
Lianozovo The real deal. Hundreds of babushkas and other
dodgy looking blokes with their wares spread out along the
ground right next to a railway track. The flow of people selling
all kinds of crap (one old black shoe anyone?) seems to go on
for miles and the tat on display is going for pennies. If you are
looking for creepy looking Soviet stuff for a handful of roubles
this is the place. Just be careful to watch your bag, they are
not all the most honest people up here. You need to get up
here on a Saturday morning as everyone gets cleared off by
the authorities later on in the day, and although they keep
trying to shut the place down, Lianozovo keeps cropping
up. GETTING THERE As you can imagine getting there
is a bit of a mission, you need to get an elektrichka from
savylovskaya and get off at a place called Mark. Cross over
the railway lines and you should soon see it.
Alternative designers F-3/4 Kolpachny per. 12,
Kitay Gorod.You would never know this place is here from
the street, and once you are inside the series of courtyards
you’ll find it is still generally not very clear where everything
is – basically it looks like a squat – inside and out. In the
various dilapidated buildings you will find many of Moscow’s
young budding designers making and selling their wares in
the same place. The opening times seem to depend only
on the whims of those who are squatting there, so you will
just have to wander past and see for yourself if anything
is going on. The crazy graffiti in the yard alone is worth the
visit though.
Izmailovsky Ul. 3 Parkovaya 24, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 163 21 76. The market isn’t far from
Izmailovo estate which was Peter the Great’s playground
as a boy. This flea market is the place to go for your Soviet
kitsch souvenirs and a little bit of everything else. It’s
huge and rambling, filled with Russia’s best and worst
salespeople. Here you’ll find matryoshki (nesting dolls),
the laquer boxes, carpets, Soviet posters, badges, tea
towels and so on. Bargain hard and be friendly, some of
your encounters here have the potential to be the most
memorable. Follow the crowds from the Partizanskaya
metro station. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00
August - September 2010
54 Shopping
Vladimir Mikhailov B-2, Galeria Akter, ul. Tverskaya
16/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 18, www.
vmikhailov.ru. For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery
made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind
a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate
jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick
holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the
finest traditions of Orthodox art. Also in trade centre Tre-
tyakov Plaza, ul. Nikolskaya 10 (metro Kitay-gorod). QOpen
10:00 - 21:00.
Markets
Dorogomilovsky Ul. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 249 55 53. Covering almost an entire city
block, this inner-city market just five minutes from Kievskaya
and around the back of the Evropeisky shopping centre is a
find. Fresh produce including fish and seafood can be found in
the covered buildings, and there’s also an array of standard
Russian market goodies (plastic stuff no one needs but people
seem to buy) displayed in the aqua blue booths outside. It’s
neat and well attended so you can be assured that everything
is ultra fresh. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00
Flowers
Nothing says I love you like a nice big bunch of flowers.
In Russia when making this gesture there are however
several points to consider. The golden rule is to buy an
odd number of flowers, even numbers are only given at
funerals. Secondly as regards colour avoid yellow as this
is often associated with bad luck and usually signifies a
farewell (unless of course you want to send out that signal).
If the message you are looking for is 100% passion then of
course go for red, the darker the colour the better. Be sure
to choose roses, the flower of love. Carnations on the other
hand are heavily associated with Soviet holidays such as
victory day and are best saved for babushkas.
Flower-shop.ru F-6, Kosmodamianskaya nab.
40/42, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 626 44 14,
www.flowers-2-russia.com. As well as a shop where
you can pick things out yourself, they also work online and
can deliver flowers to anywhere in Moscow and also deliver
abroad too. Thankfully the site is in English so you don’t
need to simply rely on the pictures. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Delivery is free during working hours of the shop. A
Mostsvettorg A-2, Ul. Krasina 9, bldg. 2, MMaya-
kovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 505 40 92, moscvettorg.ru.
A great and central location to pick up flowers that are
sold at prices far more reasonable than usual. Roses in
particular are much cheaper here than in other street
-side stalls. Also at ul. Novoslobodskaya 14/19, bldg. 8
(metro Novoslobodskaya). QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. N
Moscow In Your Pocket
Shopping Centres
Evropeisky Shopping Centre Kievskaya pl. 2, MKi-
evskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.evropeisky.ru.
Quality restaurants and bars, saunas and health treatments,
and all the European brand shops that gave the centre its very
name. Bliss!QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00
PJAK
Gum D-4, Red Square, MPl. Revolyutsii, tel. (+7) 495
788 43 43, www.gum.ru. A trip here is essential - this elabo-
rate three arcade structure with three tiers is constructed
from limestone, marble and granite and was first built in the
1890s. Today it is one of the most popular tourist sights.
Toilets for those in need are on the third level of the third
arcade.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTJAK
Okhotny Ryad C-3, Maneznaya pl.1, MOkhotny Ryad.
If you can find your way around in here, you‘ve made it in this
town. Confusion central, this is a spawling place that has
everything you need, it just takes a long time to find it! The
food court is perfect for when you‘ve done the Kremlin and
want a snack.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00 PJALKSW
Supermarkets
Globus Gourmet E-3, Ul. Pokrovka 2, tel. (+7) 495 662
66 03, www.stk-retail.ru. Picture a downscaled version of
Harrod’s Food Hall and this would be a close approximation.
The downstairs wine storage is worthy of special mention,
all wines are kept at 17 degrees. Prices reflect that most
goods are imported, however, if you are looking for parme-
san cheese, soy milk or any other hard to find items even in
Moscow, it will be more than likely on a Globus Gourmet shelf.
Q Open 24 hrs. PA
Gum Gastronom D-4, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 620 30 10, w w w.gum.ru. Even the
handles of the baskets are leather padded for your shop-
ping comfort. The salad bar has an amazing range of good
value, fresh chef-crafted salads. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00
PTALK
Sedmoi (7th) Continent tel. (+7) 495 777 77 79,
www.7cont.ru. This chain of gourmet supermarkets have
a good range of fresh foodstuff and imported treats - the one
on the Arbat has a great selection. They also have a very
good delivery service for those who don't have time to tour
the aisles, nevermind carry sacks of potatoes up the stairs.
QOpen 24hrs. PA
Yeliseevsky Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 650 07 60. The flag shop of nineteenth century
gourmet merchandiser and importer Paul Yeliseevsky, is
now home to a wonderful shop. The grand interior has been
restored to its pre-revolutionary glamour with gold bolsters,
mirrors and sculptured mouldings. The ceilings are as high as
a theatre. Stocked here, at reasonable prices are a variety
of imported chocolates, biscuits and other foodie gifts as
well as stocked seafood and cheese deli counters. There’s
a wine room, stocked with wines from around the world and
champers, as well as a souvenirs room out the back. The
atmosphere is improved by such surroundings and the staff
don’t follow you around like you’re about to pocket something.
Q Open 24hrs. PJA
Skolko stoit? = How much is it?
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Business directory
Moscow is Russia’s business capital and countless
businessmen have lost and made millions in this town.
Accountants and consultants
Center of Economic Planning Kutuzovsky pr. 12,
MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 648 58 38, english.ecoplan.
ru. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Deloitte A-1, Ul. Lesnaya 5, bldg. B, MBelorusskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young E/F-6, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77,
bld. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.
ey.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KPMG Presnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na
naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
Price Water House Coopers F-7, Kosmodamianskaya
nab. 52, bldg. 5, MPaveletskaya, tel. 495 967 60 00,
www.pwc.com.
SHR Consulting Bolshoi Drovyanoi per. 6, MTagan-
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 51, www.shrc.ru.QOpen
10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Banks
HSBC Bank B-6, Ul. Ostozhenka 25,
MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 645 45 45, www.
hsbc.ru. Also at ul. Malaya Nikitskaya 2/1 (metro
Arbatskaya). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun.
Business clubs
Association of European Businesses , w w w.
aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce, www.
finruscc.fi.
German Economic Club (Verband der Deutschen
Wirtschaft ), www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce , www.
amcham.ru.
The British Business Club, www.britishclub.ru.
The Moscow Irish Business Club, www.moscow-
irishclub.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce , www.
rbcc.com.
Exhibition Centres
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) Prospekt
Mira, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 554 3400, www.
vvcentre.ru. Q Exhibition halls are open from 10:00-19:00
Crocus Expo Trade and exhibition centre Crocus City,
65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD),M Myakinins-
kayatel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocusexpo.ru.
Expocentre Krasnopresnenskaya nab.,14, MDelovoy
Tsentr, tel. (+7) 495 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru.
Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre 5th
Luchevoy Prosek, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995
05 95, www.exposokol.ru.Q Hours of free bus: from
09:30 to 19:00.
World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) Krasnopres-
nenskaya nab.,12, MDelovoy Tsentr, tel. (+7) 495 258
12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
Interpreting/Translating
Elan Languages Business centre Petrovsky, ul.
Nizhnaya 11, bldg. 1, office 28, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 627 57 34, www.elanlanguages.ru. Translating,
interpreting and training of staff for working in a Russian or
foreign professional environment. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. N
moscow.inyourpocket.com
55
Hiring and firing: the basics
Common wisdom is that Russia’s labour law contains
various elements from the communist past and is biased
towards employees. Marshall Zhukov already appeared
to say that nothing is what it seems, and would he
still be alive he may have pointed out the sometimes
ambiguous nature of the relationship between company
and employee as a good example of this.
To start with, there is the written employment agreement
(трудовой договор). It is not necessary to conclude one,
but if you do not do so within three days of the start of
employment, all the standard rules of the Labour Code
(трудовой кодекс) will apply. That means: no probation-
ary period, unlimited period, statutory amount of vacation
days. It also means: no golden parachute. In addition,
employing someone for a limited period is only possible if
the work has a temporary character. And firing someone
within a probationary period is only possible if you have a
good reason for it: the employee must be notified about
it 3 days before the termination date and he can appeal
against the decision in court.
The employer should also receive the Labour Booklet
(трудовая книжка) from the employee and keep it in a
very safe place (actually, in a real safe). The labour booklet
is a kind of passport in which the start and termination of
all employments and promotions are recorded.
Terminating someone for not properly fulfilling their job
seems difficult. There have to be two violations and the
first one must have resulted in a formal written warning.
In order to have violated something, there must first be a
very detailed description of rules which the employee has
to follow. Terminating someone is also possible in the case
of liquidation of a company. Many acquisitions and internal
reorganisations in Russia are structured as asset deals. A
new company is set up which takes over the activities of
the entity of the sellers, which is then put into liquidation.
The new company, in that case, is allowed to cherry-pick the
employees: only those who are considered “key” get an offer.
But the most obvious escape hatch for a company to lay off
individual employees lays somewhat hidden in the twisted
logic of the staff list: a list with everyone’s functions on it
and their corresponding salaries. Usually this list is “made
up” in the dungeons of a company’s accounting department.
The management states what salary has been agreed with
an employee. This sum tends to change as people get pro-
moted and often there is not one person in a company with
the same salary. This means that all employees have to have
different functions in the staff list. What to do when there
no longer seems to be common ground with an employee,
is to simply declare that this function will be terminated.
A lay-off must be announced two months in advance, and
the employee is allowed a severance payment of one
(average over the last 12 months) monthly salary. When
the employee can demonstrate he does not have new
a job yet, which has to be confirmed by the Employment
Authority (служба занятости населения), he can get
two additional monthly salaries.
Obviously, these quite spartan provisions define the basis for
negotiations between employer and employee. When there
is a mutual understanding that a termination has become
inevitable, a lump sum payment of 3 months salary is a good
deal for both sides. This is usually formalised in a termina-
tion agreement. An employee with a job offer at hand will
gladly use the two weeks notice and move to another job.
Written in collaboration with BVDM tax and legal
services. For more detailed information, visit their
website www.bvdmlaw.nl or call 495 935 7621.
August - September 2010
56 Business directory Expat 57

Beatrix C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 12, bldg. 9, office 95,

Exhibitions MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 32 22, www.beat- International schools
rix.ru. QOpen 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N
Date Exhibition Venue Evans Maly Palashevsky per. 6, bldg 1, floor 4, MPush- For students, school children and parents alike, Septem-
27.08 – 05.09 Moscow International Crocus kinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 67 03, www.evans.ru. ber 01 is one of the biggest days of the year. It’s the first
Automobile Salon QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A one of the new school year and in true Russian fashion,
02.09 – 05.09 Flowers VVTS Four Squares C-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 32, bldg. the celebration is always big. Known across the country
11.09 – 15.09 Junwex - Jewellery VVTS 7, 3rd floor, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 55 72, as the Day of Knowledge (Dyen Znanye) the first day back
Forum www.foursquares.ru. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. N is a festive day with parties, presents, and celebrations.
14.09 – 17.09 Household Expo 2010 - Crocus Intermark Savills Kropotkinsky per. 7, bld.1, MPark
Goods, dinnerware and Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 502 95 53, www.intermarksavills. Moscow has a large and active expat community. To keep in Anglo-American School Ul. Beregovaya 1,
housewares ru. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A touch with what’s going on, visit the useful site, www.expat.ru. MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru.
14.09 – 17.09 World Food Expocentr Prime Realty and Relocation A-2, Per. Krasina 16, If you would like your group to feature here or have an expat Independent Anglo-American School for children from four
21.09 – 23.09 Mibexpo - Meetings Crocus bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. 787 05 51, www.prime- event you think we should know about, send your details to years of age up through to the twelth grade. Internatinal
Industry and Business relo.com. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Travel research.mos@inyourpocket.com. curriculum and college preparation program which can
Pulford Ul. Bolshaya Gruzinskaya 20, off. 76, be supplemented with International Baccalaureate cer-
27.09 – 30.09 Mosshoes – Footwear, Crocus MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 31 58. Call before tificates or a full IB Diploma. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. A
bags and accessorise visiting the office. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Charities
N Marias Children , www.mariaschildren.ru. Wonderful Baby club Trekhprudny per. 11/13, bldg. 2, MMay-
children’s charity that helps orphans, disabled children and akovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 973 35 90, www.baby-club.
Printing and Copying Recruitment street kids find their feet through art, play, education and ru. Baby club has three levels. One is for the real ‘babies’
Copy Max A-1, Ul. 2-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 16, G-nuis F-5, Ul. Goncharnaya 27, MTaganskaya, tel. responsibility. (i.e eight months to two years old), the second for those
MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 09 00, www. (+7) 495 787 22 19, www.g-nuis.ru. QOpen 09:00 Moscow Animals www.moscowanimals.org Works to aged two to four and the final level is aimed at those
copy-max.ru.QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. - 19:00 rehome street dogs and cats and also provides a range of from ages four to seven. Classes run seven days a week
I-on Cyber Centre C-3, Ul. Tverskaya 7 (Central services and advice on exporting and importing animals from between 10:00 and 20:00 and are taught in a bi-lingual
Telegraph Off ice), MOkhotny Ryad, w w w.i-on. Tax and legal Services Russia and vetinary recommendations.
Nastenka Foundation A children’s cancer hospital
environment. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
ru. Not only a store full of computer gadgets but this Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services C-6,
chain of over 80 shops all over Moscow can also print supported by the American Women’s Organization. www. British International School Ul. Bolshaya Akademi-
Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off 203B, MPolyanka, awomoscow.org cheskaya, 24, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44
documents. tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Tax and United Way Russia info@unitedway.ru – A Russian 86, www.bismoscow.com. This famous school has been
Legal Services from long experienced and well respected
Real Estate Dutch law firm. Deal with all kind of corporate and per-
charitable organization started up by an American charity
organisation, supporting various community programmes
in Moscow for 15 years and has 8 different locations.They
follow the English national curriculum from ages 3-18 and
At Home Network Ul. Skakovaya 17, MBelorusskaya, sonal legal issues as well as various areas of Russian/ with the help of international and Russian companies with offer excellent school trips and extra-curricular activities and
tel. (+7) 495 950 57 58, www.athome-network.com/ International ta xation issues. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00. various fundraising events throughout the year. a very international atmosphere. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
ru. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Montessori School Nezhinskaya ul. 1, bldg 2 (Kutu-
Cable and Satellite TV zovskaya Riviera compound), MSlavyansky Bulvar,
Sky Satellite Television tel. +7 903 203 19 15, tel. (+7) 495 971 86 26, www.mosmontessori.ru.
skysatelliteuk.com. At last Sk y T V has landed in The only pre-school in Moscow officially running according
Russia - meaning you’ll never have to watch another to the Montessori system. Children are taught and play
badly dubbed Hollywood film or episode of Russian Big within a bi-lingual background. Situated inside a private
Brother ever again. gated community it has plenty of well-tended outdoor
space. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A
Expat Contacts P’tit Cref B-4, Bolshoi Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbats-
American Women’s Organisation , www.awomos- kaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.ru. The
cow.org. first tri-lingual kindergarten in Russia offers Russian, French
Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) and English classes in a bright and cheery atmosphere. The
, auskimoscow@gmail.com. school has numerous classrooms for fun, games, resting and
British Women’s Club , www.bwcmoscow.co.uk. of course milk and cookies. Classes are taught by native
Dutch Community , www.nederlandsevereniging- speaker teachers.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A
moskou.ru.
Dutch Women’sClub (The Tulips) , aleiddouma@live. The English International School (EIS) Zeleny
nl, nvm.redroxx.eu/tulpen/. prospect 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21
Hauspostille (German-Language Community 04, www.englishedmoscow.com. English day school for
Newsletter) , hauspostille@yahoo.de. kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English
International Women’s Club , www.iwcmoscow.ru. curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation
Moscow Dragons Rugby Club , www.moscowdrag- for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on
onsrfc.com. languages, art, music, IT and sport. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00.
Moscow International Choir , moscow.international. Closed Sat, Sun. A
choir@gmail.com.
Moskva Accueil (French Women’s Club) , www.
site-moskva-accueil.org.
Nigerian Community Russia , nigeriancommunity@
yahoo.com, www.nigeriancommunity.ru.
Rotary Club Moscow International Shlyuzovaya
nab. 6/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 926 397 26 87,
www.rcmi.ru.
Swedish Women’s Educational Association ,
www.swea.org.

Moscow In Your Pocket moscow.inyourpocket.com moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

58 expat
Expat Football
 llianz ROSNO Expat Football League MGIMO
A are particularly noteworthy for holding contemporary themed
University and Lokomotive Stadium, www.moscow-
football.com. ‘Moscow Over-30 Expat Football League’s
main goals are to facilitate an enjoyable, non-injurious,
gentlemen’s competition amongst athletically and so-
cially fit individuals who refuse to grow-up.’ The league
is open to all enthusiasts although you should be aware
that apparently the standard is very high and it is aimed
at those who will be in Moscow a while. Adding to the fun
post-match beers and burgers are included.
Contact nickrees99@yahoo.com for details on how to join.
Games take place on weekends at MGIMO stadium (pr.
Vernadskogo 76, metro Yugo-Zapadnaya), during winter
season at Lokomotov stadium (ul. Bolshaya Cherkizovs-
kaya 125A, metro Cherkizovskaya). Summer season runs
through end of October.
International Cultural Centres
Goethe Institute/DAAD Leninsky prospekt 95a, tel.
(+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de.
House of Foreign Literature F-4/5, Ul. Nikoloyam-
skaya 1, MTaganskaya, This building is the main hub
for cultural insitutues in Moscow and houses the following:
American Centre tel. (+7) 495 777 65 30, www.amc.
ru. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
British Council tel. (+7) 495 287 18 28, www.british-
council.org/russia.
Canadian Centre tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.study-
canada.ca/russia. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Le Centre culturel Francais tel. (+7) 495 915 79 74,
www.ccf-moscou.ru.
Neso Russia tel. (+7) 495 915 72 36, www.nesorussia.
com.QOpen 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Language Schools
Cref E-2, Ul. Malaya Lubyanka 16, 2nd entrance, 3rd
floor, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 57 57, www.
cref.ru. English, French and Russian lessons are all part of the
Cref language program. Their Russian program utilises their
own textbooks which are designed to include cultural aspects
as well as the grammar. There is a general Russian course,
Business Russian and also intensive and summer courses.
QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:30. Closed Sun. A
Liden and Denz Language Centre Gruzinsky per 3,
entr. 6, office 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 254 49
91, www.lidenz.ru. Liden & Denz Language Centre Moscow
is thankfully located in the centre, not far from Belorusskaya
metro. They enjoy a ground floor location in the same build-
ing as the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, so behave! In terms of
facilities and ethos, this is a modern language school with
up-to-date classrooms, and all the accoutrements that can
assist students. Dvd gear is all classrooms and there’s also
wireless and flat screen internet workstations. Students can
study in groups, of which the minimum length is one week
with a maximum of ten students or learners in one class.
Individual classes also available. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. A
Looking for your nearest embassy?
We have all the addresses and phone
numbers listed at
russia.inyourpocket.com
Moscow In Your Pocket
Russian Linguistic Centre A-4, Khlebniy per. 19B,
5th floor, MArbatskaya, tel. 695 33 40, www.rlc-rus.
ru. Russian for foreigners taught at all levels and ages. They
discussion groups and for organising excursions. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Moving and Relocations
Allied Pickfords Varshavskoe Shosse 127a, MYuzh-
naya, tel. (+7) 495 796 93 25, www.alliedpickfords.ru.
Corstjens Worldwide Movers Group Otkritoye Shosse
48A, 3rd floor, MUlitsa Podbelskogo, tel. (+7) 495 411
96 20, www.corstjens.com. World Wide Company who work
for leading multinationals, embassies, government institutions
and private individuals.QOpen 09:30 - 18:30. Closed Sat, Sun.
Eolia, tel. +( 7) 905 551 71 49, www.eolia-relocation.
ru. Eolia offers relocation services, with the extra benefit of
a social and cultural adaptation program, to corporate clients
and private individuals moving to a new country. Everything
from home to business and lifestyle is taken care of.
Religious Services
Big Choral Synagogue E-4, Bol. Spasoglinischevsky
per., MKitay Gorod.
Evangelische Emmausgemeinde Moskau Pr. Ver-
nadskogo 103, bldg. 3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, tel. (+7)
495 433 22 95, www.emmausgemeinde-moskau.de.
Grand Mosque Vypolzov per. 7, MProspekt Mira.
International Christian Assembly Schelkovskoye
Shosse 2a, MCherkizovskaya, tel. 8 962 933 35 81,
icamoscow.org.
Memorial Mosque on Poklonnaya Gora Ul. Minskaya
26 (Poklonnaya Gora), MPark Pobedy.
Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism
Ul. Volochayevskaya 14/1, MBaumanskaya. Friday night
services in Russian and Hebrew start at 19:00.
St. Andrew’s Anglican Church B-3, Voznesensky
per 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.
standrewsmoscow.org. Sung Eucharist on Sun at 11am,
Evening Prayer daily at 18:30 exept Thu, Holy Communion
on Wed at 19:00.
Synagogue B-3, Bol. Bronnaya, MPushkinskaya.
Residential Complexes
Pokr ovsky Hills Ul. Ber egovaya 3, M Sokol,
tel. (+7) 495 229 66 00, www.hines.com.QOpen 08:30
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PAL
Rosinka Moscow rural, Krasnogorsky region, village
Angelovo, MSkhodnenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 730 32 00,
www.rosinka.ru.QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. A
Water Delivery
Nestle Pure Life, tel. (+7) 495 980 59 80, www.
nestle-purelife.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
health & Lifestyle 59
Moscow for Kids
Реклама
Amusement Parks Once the snow finally melts there
are plenty of ageing amusement parks full of scary
rides and slow little choo choo trains to sit the kids on
while you relax with an ice-cream. Gorky Park is one of
the most famous places as it is has some newer faster
rides that are popular with teens and plenty of smaller
(and rustier…) looking ones. The park at VDNKh also
has Russia’s biggest ferris wheel for those who aren’t
petrified of heights. If you think your kids would have the
energy for it you can spend the whole day in Izmailovo
park riding donkeys, feeding ducks, playing in the various
playgrounds and trying out the rides.
Children in Moscow www.childreninmoscow.ru.
Written by an expat parent for expat parents this is possibly
the best place to find out information on everything child
friendly that's going on in Moscow.
Kva Kva AquaPark Yaroslavskoe shosse, 1 km from
MKAD, Shopping centre XL, tel. (+7) 495 258 06
83, www.kva-kva.ru. A froggy fun adventure water
world for all the family. There’s a maze of slides and
waterfalls, graded between those for young kids and
those that will be more popular with young teenagers.
There are also several saunas for grown ups to relax.
GETTING THERE: From metro VDNKH take bus N333
to the XL shopping centre. (Yaroslavskoe shosse).QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. Adults 550-1500Rbl, children 0-1100Rbl.
Tickets can be purchased in theatre box offices or in
aquapark.KDC
Moscow is the capital of Russia and so if you want your
haircut whilst watching a movie, need urgent dental work,
are looking for an olympic sized outdoor pool or would like Banyas
to ski indoors in June, you can do it. Sandunovskie Bani D-3, Ul. Neglinnaya 14, bld. 3-7,
MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 625 46 31, www.
Beauty Salons sanduny.ru. This historic, luxurious and well kept up banya
Beauty Center Baltschug D-5, Hotel Baltschug Kem- (public bath house) works wonders on the winter blues. Its
pinski Moscow, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, original 19th century glamour has been preserved: marble
tel. (+7) 495 518 97 45, www.salon-baltschug.ru. As
columns, red carpets and golden imperial archways greet you.
Both the men and women’s sections are classically designed.
everything else in Baltschug, this beauty salon is luxurious
enough for those with the most extravagant demands. With a
There are regular and VIP class bathes in both the men and
women’s sections. The women’s VIP class boasts a Jacuzzi,
little help of these highly trained specialists, your hair, makeup spa services and a hair salon. Private baths are also available.
and nails will look a million dollars at a fraction of that price. QOpen Mon-Sun 8:00-22:00, box till 20:00. Regular class
Massage, skincare treatment and aromatherapy are also and VIP Men’s baths closed Tues. VIP Women’s baths and
available. Watch out for the 20% off happy hours.QOpen Men’s upper class closed Mon. For three hours, Women’s bath
09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PA 1000Rbl, Women’s VIP bath 1500Rbl. For two hours Men’s
bath 1000Rbl, Men’s upper class bath 1300Rbl, Men’s VIP
Expat Salon A-3, Maly Patriarshy per 3,, MPushkin- bath, 1600Rbl. TJAKDC
skaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 37 49, www.expatsalon.ru.
Probably one of few places in Moscow where you won’t walk
out with a haircut you didn’t ask for. And why is that? Well,
Dental Clinics
they understand English. The full range of features on offer American Clinic Dental Art Ul. Druzhinnikovskaya
make their services read something like a Russian menu, from 15, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 790 76 39,
www.dentalart.ru. Dental emergency - 24 hours. QOpen
a standard hair cut in one of their state-of-the-art massage
09:00 - 21:00. PTALW
chairs to your usual mani-pedi and Thai massage. Thankfully
they offer helpful, free consultations so you can decide what European Dental Centre 1st Nikoloschepovsky per 6,
you need. Bookings for all services are essential. QOpen bldg 1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 00 02, www.
09:00 - 21:00. A emcmos.ru. Q Open 24 hrs. A
Lanna Kamilina D-6, Bolshoy Tolmachevsky per 4, US Dental Care C-3, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 7/5,
bldg. 1, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 63 05, bld. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.
www.lannakamilina.ru. Now celebrating 10 years of expert usdentalcare.com.Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00-
hairstyling. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A 18:00. JA
moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010
60 health & lifestyle
Drycleaning
Nikko Dry Cleaners Ul. Tverskaya 16 (Gallery Ak-
ter), MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 580 35 10, www.
drycleaners.ru. With thirty outlets around the whole of
Moscow, you are never far from a cleaner, brighter wardrobe.
Depending on the garment, they also have an express
one-hour service.
Entertainment Centres
Cosmik Ul. Lva Tolstogo 18, MPark Kultury, tel.
( + 7 ) 495 258 31 31, w w w.cosmik.ru. Q Op en
12:00 - 05:00.
Samolet- Bowling Ul. Presensky Val 14/1, MUlitsa 1905
Goda, tel. (+7) 495 234 18 18, www.samolet-bowling.ru.
A veritable palace of entertainment. As well as bowling they also
have games arcades, billiards, go-karts, karaoke and laser quest.
Fitness Clubs
Orange Fitness Konny per. 4, MOktyabryskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 502 91 91, www.orangefit.ru.
Petrovka Sports 1st Kolbovsky per. 4, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 933 87 00, www.petrovkasports.ru.
World Class 2nd Spasnolivkovsky per. 7, MOktyabrys-
kaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 17 49, www.worldclass.ru.
Hiking
Hikers Club , www.hike.narod.ru. International hiking and
walking group that meets for weekly walks in forests around
Moscow. The next walks with meeting points and guidelines
are posted on the website with the leaders contact details.
Medical Clinics
American Medical Centres Prospekt Mira, 26, bldg
6, entrance from Grokholsky per., MProspekt Mira,
tel. (+7) 495 933 77 00, www.amcenter.ru. Q Open
24 hours. A
European Medical Centre A-3, Spiriodonevsky per.
5, bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 933 66 55,
www.emcmos.ru. Also at Orlovsky per. 7 (metro Pr. Mira).
Doctor on call 933 66 45. Q Open 24 hrs. A
GMS Clinic Ul. 2-ya Yamskaya 9, MMaryina roscha,
tel. (+7) 495 781 55 77, www.gmsclinic.ru. Q Open
24 hrs. PTALW
Intermed center Grokholsky per. 31, MProspect
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 57, www.intac.ru. Q 24
hours. PTAU
International SOS Orlovskiy per. 7, 3rd floor, MPr.
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 937 57 60, www.internationalsos.
com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 -
14:00. 24 hour emergency service.
Spas
Baltschug Health Club D-5, Baltschug Kempinski, Ul.
Balchug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20
00, www.kempinski-moscow.ru.QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
Espa Ritz-Carlton, Ul. Tverskaya 3, MOkhotny Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com.
Moscow In Your Pocket
Thai Spa Seven Krasok Ul. Povarskaya 10/1, MAr-
batskaya, tel. (+7) 495 363 31 84, www.7krasok.
ru.QThai and Balinese massages from professional Indo-
nesian and Thai experts.
Swimming Pools
Chaika B-6, Turchaninov per 3, bldg. 1, MPark Kultury,
tel. (+7) 499 246 13 44, www.chayka-sport.ru. Easily one
of Moscow’s most atmospheric (if scarily Soviet looking) swim-
ming pools - as you can actually see the city while you swim!
Chaika has two outdoor pools (one 25metre and one 50metre)
surrounded by benches to chillout on if it’s not -10 outside, as
well as an indoor cafe. Be aware that you will need to buy a
spravka (medical certificate) at the entrance after a quick two
minute examination of your feet etc before you will be allowed
to swim. Q Open Mon - Sat 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:30 - 19:30.
Admission 400-600Rbl/hr, then extra 100-150Rbl for next hour.
Luzhniki Nab. Lyzhnetskaya 24, MVorobevi Gori, tel.
(+7) 495 637 07 64. www.luzhniki.ru Built as the main
swimming area for the Moscow 1980 olympics, this huge
pool is still popular with the more professional types.Q
Open 07:15 - 21:00.
Yoga
Birthlight D-6, Staromonetny per. 18, MTretyakovska-
ya, tel. (+7) 495 788 13 08, www.birthlight.ru. Birthlight
offers prenatal yoga, baby yoga, toddler yoga, baby swimming
and aqua yoga. Highly professional UK-trained teachers lead
the classes and instruction is available in Russian, English or
French. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TN
Moscow Business Yoga A-7, Obolensky per. 3/1,
MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 985 410 36 30, www.moscow-
business-yoga.net. Can send yoga teachers to your office,
and they offer classes in Russian, English and German. Prob-
ably a much healthier way to keep the office stress-free than
getting the champagne and cigars in. Classes in English every
Mon at 20:45 at NYM yoga studio and every Sat at 12:00 at
hotel Kempinski Baltschug. There is outdoor free Yoga every
Sun at 11:00 near metro Sportivnaya, registration obligatory.
QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. One lesson 450-600Rbl. N
Moscow Beaches
There are plenty of sandy beaches around Moscow but
the ones at Serebryany Bor are probably the cleanest.
Inside the forest you’ll find the exclusive beach number
1 with sun loungers, bars and VIP cabins set alongside
the river banks and a number of other private and public
beaches. There are board games, ping pong tables, vol-
leyball and of course beer. Further along the banks there’s
even a nudist beach. GETTING THERE: take trolleybus
20, 21, 65 or 86 from Polezhaevskaya Metro Station.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Peter Richter is a man with
a very international outlook
having grown up in Belgium
with a Dutch mother and a
German passpor t, worked
in Moscow for 15years for
an Italian company and been
married for 10 years to a
Russian businesswoman. He
is also the ‘ambassador’ of
the Moscow branch of the
international networking com-
muni ty InterNations, which
celebrates its bir thday this
September and works as a
logisti cs mana ger for th e
world famous confectioners Ferrero.
By Louise Whitworth
How long have you been in Moscow?
I first came to Moscow in 1995. I was working in shipping in
Budapest at the time and a friend told me about an opening
at Ferrero in Luxembourg. I got the job and then after a few
months they asked me to go to Moscow, to help with local
logistics support for the development in Russia. I didn’t think
twice about it and here I am!
Ferrero products are everywhere in Russia now, how was
the brand viewed in the beginning?
Demand was overwhelming but unpredictable right from the
beginning to the extent that it was almost impossible to keep
up with it. At that time in Russia anything could happen and
obstacles were numerous, requiring an extremely flexible
approach of the entire team, but we found very quickly that
there were hardly any limits in what one could do and enjoyed
a rapid expansion of our business.
How did you fair during the 1998 crash?
The crash of the economy hit everyone really hard and we
had to cut back massively, we were forced to let a lot of staff
go and even I moved back to our head offices in Luxembourg
for a year and a half. As you can see things did get back on
their feet though, the company started expanding and now our
products are very successful and in October last year our first
locally produced Kinder Chocolate came off the production
line in the Vladimir Oblast.
What are the most popular products amongst Rus-
sians?
Raffaello is by far the most popular of our products in Russia
and holds the number one position in the praline segment in
Russia. What is interesting about Ferrero is that it is actually
a family business with a very careful philosophy. The founder
spends years testing and perfecting new recipes before we
decide to sell them, so you don’t see new products coming
out every week – the product has to be perfect. In Russia
our products have their own niche due to their quality vs.
price positioning.
So will there be any new products coming out soon?
At the moment we are testing Rafaello ice-cream in Azbuka
Vkusa stores that we hope will be very popular – I’ve tried it
and I can honestly say it’s absolutely delicious! We still have
a lot of products that have not yet been introduced here. In
Italy for example we have the number one ice-tea brand, still
made by infusion (where others are made with powder). As
you can imagine it's made using basically a giant tea bag and
is a great product. Unfortunately Ferrero back then decided
not to launch it beyond the Italian borders and so it won't be
entering into the Russian market now.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
interview 61
How did you become involved in InterNations?
The InterNations idea was started several years ago in Munich
and the site was launched in September 2007 as a way for
expats to get together and socialise. I got invited to the com-
munity, became pretty active and made some great contacts
when suddenly back in June 2008 they asked if I'd help organise
events for the Moscow community. There were less than 400
members then and I wasn’t sure if I had time to get really
involved. But I got a friend on board here who is an event man-
agement professional and we were off. In September 2008 our
first event saw 40 people, then we organised more sponsored
events, the word spread and we got bigger and bigger. Now
we have just over 3,000 members and are one of the biggest
and fastest growing InterNations communities in the world!
Why do you think InterNations has become so popular?
In Moscow networking is key, perhaps more than anywhere
else in the world. The more people you know the easier it is
for you to get around and get ahead. Moscow can also be a
very isolating place sometimes, so getting integrated early
on and meeting people that you can spend time with and
share interests with is also essential. Plus it is a really nice
way of broadening your horizons by getting to know people
from all walks of life. I think following our birthday celebrations
in September we’ll give our growth another boost.
How do you juggle family and work life?
The only problem with having a young child in Moscow (our
son is seven), is the amount of planning you have to put into
everything and the long hours that you often work. I always
dedicate my whole weekend exclusively to family and try to
make sure I can get home by 8pm every evening, whatever the
traffic may be like. Getting around the city can be complicated
time wise, but Moscow is full of great parks, theatres and
circuses devoted exclusively to kids and plenty of worthwhile
museums. Sunday brunch is also always a nice option as the
children get their own playroom and entertainment, while the
Old folks can enjoy a nice long lunch with their friends.
And how do you cope with the Moscow pace of life?
With Moscow it is always a love/hate relationship. There are
those times when you just say, ‘ok lock me up in a padded
room and let me scream it out!’ things can get so hectic and
frustrating. And then times when you have to say ‘this one can
only do here’. It is essential that you give yourself the occasional
time out from Moscow, but at the end of the day I love this city
and this country. There are so many opportunities, more than
almost anywhere else in the world right now. You are constantly
exposed to new challenges and adventures, finding new ways
to look at things and you never know what will happen tomor-
row. The city itself is a great place to be, it’s beautiful, full of
history and you’re never short of something to do.
The Richter Scale
Best and worst things about Moscow: The worst thing
is of course the traffic, it seems to get worse all the time.
Those grey winters where everything is brown and slushy
are also bad. The really cold and crisp winters are much
better. There are so many good things about Moscow…
perhaps the unpredictability of the place, after some
years things may not necessarily shock you anymore,
but it’s still always challenging!
Describe yourself in 3 words: I usually leave it for other
people to judge! I guess I’ll say broadminded, flexible
and adaptable – wherever I lay my hat that’s my home.
Best advice anyone’s ever given you: The best manag-
ers may not necessarily have all the answers, but they
do know where to find them.
August - September 2010
 business directory 63

moscow.inyourpocket.com August - September 2010

66 Street register
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Ozerkovskaya nab. E-5/6 Starokonushenny per. A-4
Ozerkovsky per. E-6 Staromonetny per. C-5
Staropimenovsky per. B2
P Starosadsky per. E-3/4
Paveletskaya pl. E-7 Starovaganikovsky B-4
Pechatnikov per. D/E-2 Stoleshnikov per. C-3
Petro-Pavlovsky per. F-4 Stolovy per. A-4
Petrovka ul. C-2/3 Strastnoy bul. C-2
Petrovsky bul. C/D-2 Stremyanny per. E-7
Petrovsky Vorota pl. C-2
Pevchesky per. F-4 T
Plotnikov per. A-5 Teatralnaya pl. C-3
Podgorskaya nab. E/F-5 Teatralny proezd D-3
Timura Frunze ul. A-6/7
Podkopaevsky per. F-4 Trekhprudny per. A/B-2
Podsosensky per. F-3/4 Triumfalnaya pl. A-2
Pokrovka ul. E/F-3 Troitskaya ul. D-1
Pokrovsky bul. F-3/4 Troitsky 1-y per. D-1
Pokrovsky Vorota pl. F-3 Troitsky 2-y per. D-1
Pomerantsev per. A-6 Trubnaya pl. D-2
Posledny per. D-2 Trubnaya ul. D-2
Potapovsky per. E-3 Tsvetnoy bul. D-1/2
Povarskaya ul. A/B-4 Turchaninov per. A/B-6
Pozharsky per. B-5/6 Turgenevskaya pl. E-2
Prechistenka ul. B-5 Tverskaya pl. C-3
Prechistenskaya nab.C-5 Tverskaya ul. B-2/3, C-3
Prechistensky per. A-5 Tverskoy bul. B-3
Prechistensky Vorota. B-5
Prosvirin per. E-2 U
Pushkarev per. D-2 Ulansky per. E/F-2
Pushkinskaya nab. B-7 Uspensky per. B/C-2
Pushkinskaya pl. B-2 Ustyinskaya nab. E-5
Pyatnitskaya ul. D-5/6/7 Ustyinsky proezd E-5
Pyzhevsky per. D-6
V
R Valovaya ul. D/E-7
Rakhmanovsky per. C-3 Varvarka ul. D/E-4
Raushskaya nab. D/E-5 Vasilyevskaya ul. A-1/2
Raushsky 1-y per. D-5 Vasnetsova per. D-1
Raushsky 2-y per. E-5 Vetoshny per. D-4
Raushsky per. E-5 Vishnyakovsky per. D-6
Revolutsy pl. C/D-3 Volkhonka ul. B/C-5
Romanov per. C-3/4 Volkonsky 1-y per. C/D-1
Rozhdestvenka ul. D-2/3 Volkonsky 2-y per. C/D-1
Rozhdestvensky bul. D-2 Vorontsova ul. F-4
Runovsky per. E-5 Vorontsovo pole ul. F-4
Rybnikov per. E-2 Vospitatelny proezd E-4
Rybny per. D-4 Vozdvizhenka ul. B/C-4
Voznesensky per. B/C-3
S Vsekhsvyatsky per. B-5
Sadovaya-KaretnayaB-1 Vsevolozhsky per. A-5
Sadovaya-KudrinskayaA-2
Sadovnicheskaya nab. D-5 Y
Sadovnicheskaya ul. D-5 Yakimanskaya nab. C-5
Sadovnichesky pr. E-5 Yakimansky per. C-7
Yakovoapostolny per. F-3
Samotechny 1-y per. C-1 Yauzskaya ul. F-4/5
Samotechny 2-y per. C-1 Yauzsky bul. F-4
Samotechny 3-y per. C-1
Sandunovsky per. D-3 Z
Sechenovsky per. A-5/6 Zabelina ul. E-4
Seliverstov per. E-2 Zachyetevsky 1-y B-5
Serafimovicha ul. C-5 Zachyetevsky 2-y B-5
Serebryany per. F-4 Zachyetevsky 3-y B-5
Serpukhovskaya pl. D-7 Zatsepa ul. D/E-7
Shchepkina ul. D-1 Zatsepsky Val ul. E-7
Shchetinsky per. D-7 Zhitnaya ul. C/D-7
Shchipok ul. D-7 Zhukovskogo ul. F-2/3
Shlyuzovaya nab. F-7 Znamenka ul. B/C-4
Shvedsky tupik B-3 Zoologicheskaya ul. A-2
Sivtsev Vrazhek per. A-2 Zubovsky bul. A-6
Skatertny per. A/B-4 Zubovsky proezd A-6
Slavyanskaya pl. E-4 Zvonarsky per. D-2
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Sofiskaya nab. C/D-5
Solyanka ul. E/F-4 Ul. – Ulitsa – Street
Solyansky proezd E-4 Per. – Pereulok – Lane
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonovsky per. A-3
Sred. Karetny per. C-2
A-3 Pr. – Prospekt – Prospect
Sq. – Ploschad – Square
Dor. – Doroga – Road
Call:
Sred. Kislovsly per. B-4 Bul. –Bulvar – Boulevard
Sred. Ovchinnikovsky E-5
Sredn. Karetny per. C-2
Sretenka ul. E-1/2
Al. – Alleya – Alley
Rek. – Reka/i – River
Nab. – Naberezhnaya
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Sretensky bul. E-2 Embankment
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