88 5.

1 TEXTILE TESTING AND QUALITY CONTROL I L T 4 RATIONALE The diploma holders in textile technology have to ensure quality at all levels. The skills in testing of materials and textiles at various stages of production and finishing is essential to be developed in the students. To train the students in assessment of performance characteristics of various textile materials i.e. fibres, yarns and fabrics, this subject of textile testing and quality control has been included in the curriculum. DETAILED CONTENTS Sr. No. 1. 1.1 Theory Practical (8 hrs.) P 4

Importance and objects of textile testing and quality control Definition of quality control, quality control organisation and its functions (2 hrs) Importance of keeping standards and various factors responsible for deviation from standards (3 hrs) Sampling techniques, Random and biased samples. Techniques for sampling of fibres. Squaring and cut squaring techniques. Zoning techniques for raw cotton. (3 hrs) Fibre Dimensions (16 hrs) Fibre sampling for specific tests. Classification of different fibres and their characteristics (4 hrs)

1.2

1.3

2. 2.1

Examine and draw longitudinal view of cotton, wool, polyester, nylon and Rayon fibres by microscope. Burning tests of these fibres

2.2

Fibre length measurement by Baer To find fibre length by Baer Sorter Sorter, Analysis of Sorter diagram, method Shirley Photoelectric Stapler, Digital. Fibrograph, principle and working of these machines (6 hrs)

89 2.3 Fibre maturity, primary and secondary wall and lumen in cotton. To find out maturity of cotton fibre by Caustic Soda Method, Differential Dyeing Method and Polarised Light Method. Definition of maturity percentage and maturity ratio. (6 hrs) Fibre Fineness Definition of fibre fineness. Importance of fibre fineness. Principle of air flow machines for measurement of fineness. To find out fibre fineness by Vibroscope, Arealometer and micronaire. Sheffield Micronaire Moisture Contest and Moisture Regain of textiles. Relative and Absolute Humidity. Measurement of moisture regain by Oven Drying and Electronic Moisture Meter under Standard Atmosphere conditions. (8 hrs) Estimation of foreign matter Trash percent in cotton. Clearing efficiency of machine. Trash analysis in cotton by shirley analyser. Estimation of blow room and card machines efficiency by shirley analyser (6 hrs) Yarn numbering systems. Direct, Indirect and Universal systems of yarn numbering. Conversion factors for various numbering systems. (8 hrs) Twist and its importance. Its effects on yarn properties. Twist factor, single & ply yarn-Twist Testers (4 hrs) Quadrant Balance for weighing per Square meter for knitting & woven fabric (2 hrs)

3. 3.1

(8 hrs) To find out fibre fineness by air flow instruments. Sheffield Micronaire

4.

To find relative humidity by dry and wet bulb thermometers and Whirling Hygrometer. To find out moisture content of textiles by Oven Drying and Electronic Moisture Meter. To find out trash content of cotton by shirley trash analyser.

5.

6.

To find out count of yarn by simple weighing method

7.

Determination of yearn twist (Single & Ply yarns) by by twist testers Weighing of yearn

8.

90 9. Determination of count of yarn by simple weighing method and from small lengths by Beesleys yarn balance. (4 hrs) To find out count of yarn by knowles yarn balance To find fabric count and count of warp and weft by Beesleys yarn balance To find out Hank of silver and roving.

RECOMMENDED BOOKS 1. 2. 3. 4. Handbook of textile Testing and Quality Control by Grover and Hamby Principles of Textile Testing by JE Booth Physical Properties of Textile Fibres by Textile Institute Manchester Fabric Defects causes and Remedies-by S.S.Satsangi-M/s Usha Publishers 53B/AC-IV Shalimar Bagh, Delhi-88.

91 5.2 RATIONALE Student of textile technology after completing his diploma has to work in textile mills/textile houses/quality control centres and therefore, should have knowledge of basic concepts, objectives and working performance, quality, production of Ring frame, Doubling Machine. Similarly the student can get job in the Woolen/Worsted mills. He should have the knowledge of basic concepts and objectives of machinery used in the woolen and worsted mills. He can also get job in the maintenance depart of the spinning mills, so he should acquire the basic knowledge of maintenance also. Hence this subject is introduced in the curriculum. DETAILED CONTENTS Sr. No. 1. 1.1 Theory Ring Frame (6 hrs) Introduction and objectives of a Ring Frame, nomenclature of various parts of a Ring Frame, passage of material through it (2 hrs) Drafting, function of the drafting system, study of top arm drafting system, apron drafting, advantages, break draft (2 hrs) Introduction to rings, sizes and different types of rings, ring travellers, its functions, types of ring travellers, their sizes. Numbering of ring travelers (2 hrs) Twisting (2 hrs) Insertion on of twist into the yarn, S and Z twists, effect of twist on yarn, selection of TM for various counts, ring and travellers speeds (2 hrs) Winding (21 hrs) Building motion mechanism, Practice of passage of material through Ring Frame Practicals SPINNING TECHNOLOGY-III L T P 4 - 6

1.2

Practice of drafting roller settings. Mill visit be arranged to see top arm weighing system Practice on ring and ring traveller, spindle gauge/setting. Selection of ring travellers for different Counts

1.3

2. 2.1

Practice of inserting S and Z twist in the yarn and draw sketches.

3. 3.1

Practice of drawing and setting of

92 building motion of ring frame. insertion of coil on bobbin. Yarn ballooning, yarn ballooning control rings, separators, lappets. (2 hrs) Reasons for end breaks and their remedies on Ring Frame (2 hrs) Principle of Auto doffing at Ring Frame (2 hrs) Principle of variable pulley speed at Ring Frame (1 hr) Workload distribution at Ring Frame Gearing diagram of Ring Frame (2 hrs) Calculation of production per shift Practice of drawing gearing diagram of per machine Ring Frame and calculating production (1 hrs) per shift per machine. Calculation of spindle speed, front roll speed. (2 hrs) Calculation of total draft, break draft and individual zone draft. (2 hrs) Calculation of twist per inch and twist multiplier. (2 hrs) Calculation of production constant, draft constant, break draft constant and twist constant. (2 hrs) Calculation of traveler speed (1 hrs) Calculation of yarn content on bobbin (2 hrs) Doubling (23 hrs) Objects of Ring Doubling, Doubling, and its effects, dry and wet systems of doubling (2 hrs) Twist insertion in ply yarn, types and amount of twist. Factors effecting the multiplier for double yarn (2 hrs) Calculation of spindle speed and Front Roller speed of Ring Frame. Calculation of total draft, break draft and individual zone draft. Calculation of TPI and Twist Multiplier . Calculation of production constant, draft constant, break draft constant and twist constant. Calculation of traveler speed. Calculation of yarn content on bobbin. Practice of passage of yarn through Ring Doubling Machine. Different parts and their working. Practice to find the direction of twist in ply yarn.

3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.6.1

3.6.2 3.6.3 3.6.4 3.6.5

3.6.6 3.6.7 4. 4.1

4.2

93 4.3 Yarn defects and their causes and remedial measures in doubling machine (Expert Lecture) (2 hrs) Improvement in quality and productivity performance of a doubling machine (Expert Lecture) (2 hrs) Working principle of TFO (2 hrs) Gearing diagram of ring doubling machine (2 hrs) Gearing diagram showing various drives of a Ring Doubling Machine (2 hrs) Calculation of production per machine (1 hr) Calculation of spindle speed, delivery Roll speed (2 hrs) Calculation of twist per inch/twist Multiplier and twist constant of the Machine (2 hrs) Calculation of production constant and twist (2 hrs) Gearing diagram of Ring Doubling Machine (2 hrs) General Calculations (5 hrs) Calculation of resultant count and average count Calculation of resultant count where yarns are made from different types of fibres Calculation of different types of yarns diameter Calculation of production of a Comber, Sliver Lap and Ribbon Lap Machine

4.4

4.5 4.6 4.6.1 4.6.2 4.6.3 4.6.4

Demonstration of working of TFO during mill visit / training.

Practice of drawing gearing diagram on Ring Doubling Machine Calculation of production per machine Calculation of spindle speed, delivery role speed Calculation of twist per inch/twist Multiplier and twist constant of the Machine Calculation of production constant and constant

4.6.5 4.6.6 5. 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4

Calculation of Resultant Constant, Average Count, Yarn Diameter, Collection of Silver Lap Machine (SLM), Ribbon Lap Machine (RLM), Comber and Balancing of Machines during mill training

94 5.5 6. 6.1 6.2 6.3 7. 7.1 7.2 Calculation of balancing of machines in different sections for a particular spin plan requirement. Sequence of machinery used in the production of woolen yarn and worsted yarn and their brief description (4 hrs) Woolen System Worsted system Difference between Woolen & Worsted yarn Maintenance Preventive & Breakdown Maintenance in a spinning department/unit (2 hrs) Various maintenance schedules adopted in a spinning mill (1 hr) REFERENCE BOOKS: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Spun Yarn Technology, Vol.3 and 4 by Venkat Subramani Cotton Drawing and Roving by GR Merril Cotton Ring Spinning by GR Merril Manual of Cotton Spinning by Textile Institute Cotton Spinning by WS Taggart A practical guide to Combining and Drawing by W Klein Cotton Spinning calculations by WS Taggart Essential Calculations of Cotton Spinning by Pattabhiram Textile Mathematics Vol.-I, II and III by JE Booth (1 hr) (1 hrs) (2 hrs) (3 hrs)

95 5.3 WEAVING TECHNOLOGY-III L T P 4 - 6 RATIONALE The subject weaving technology will impart awareness and different weaving techniques to produce the good quality of fabric. DETAILED CONTENTS Sr. No. 1. Theory Practical

Introduction to Automatic loom and Preparation of weaving beam from various types of shuttleless weaving either hank or cone to loom machines and comparative study of the above machines along with power loom. (6 hrs) Automatic Loom Introduction to Auto loom (1 hr) Working of different motions/mechanisms to be studied with neat sketches (3 hrs) Introduction to automatic cop changing and its limitations (2 hrs) Introduction to Shuttle changing loom (2 hrs) Warp Stop Motion (8 hrs) Mechanical warp stop motion (4 hrs) Electronic warp stop motion Shuttle-Less Weaving (10 hrs) Types of shuttleless looms, comparison Practice on the shuttle less loom. of power loom and shuttleless weaving and among different shuttleless loom (1 hr) Introduction to different weft insertion Study of different parts of the Shuttlemethods less loom. Finding faults occurring due to Malfunctioning of 5 wheel and 7 wheel take up motion. Fitting of cop changing mechanism after dismantling. Setting of cop change motion shaft. (8 hrs)

2. 2.1 2.2

2.3 2.4 3. 3.1 3.2 4. 4.1

Practice on automatic loom. Sketching different parts of (4 hrs) mechanical warp stop motion.

4.2

96 4.3 Repair weft insertion Gripper weft insertion Pneumatic weft insertion Hydraulic weft insertion Practice on gripper loom through mill visit.

4.4 4.5 4.6 4.7

(2 hrs) Tuck in selvedges. Selvedge forming mechanism of rapier and gripper type looms (2 hrs) Weft accumulators or weft measuring motion. Electronic Warp Stop Motion (2 hrs) Leno selvedges (1 hr) Positive let off motion (1 hr) Positive take up motion

Practice on tuck-in selvedge forming mechanism Mill visit for the same

Practice on leno selvedge mechanism Dismantling and proper fitting of positive let-off motion

5. 5.1 5.2 5.3 5.4 6.

Terry pile weaving Introduction Features of terry loom

Practice of weaving (1 hr) Calculations of yarn requirement for preparing given fabric in the practical Preparation of 3 samples on jacquard (8 hrs) Understanding working of terry loom (1 hr) through mill visit.

7.

8.

(1 hr) Cam Driven Dobby controlled terry motion (3 hrs) Pile warp tension devices. (3 hrs) Fabric defects due to raw material, mechanism and other miscellaneous reasons, their causes and remedies. (6 hrs) Calculations relating to production & efficiency of the shed, weight of warp & weft required/shift. (6 hrs) Calculation relating to requirement of machinery in the weaving preparatory (both warp & weft winding) warping, sizing and weaving machines for specific production. Other related calculations. (8 hrs)

97 9. Factors effecting the production & efficiency in the weaving and preparatory department. (4 hrs)

RECOMMENDED BOOKS 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. Weaving Mechanism by T.W. Fox Rapier Loom-WIRA Shutters Weaving Mechanism-BTRA Weaving Mechanism by N.N. Banerjee Weaving Mechanism by DS Verma Weaving Calculation by Sen Gupta Weaving Technology in India by Kishar Shuttle-less Weaving Mechanism-BTRA Jacquard Ek Saral Vidya (in Hindi and English both) by S.S Satsangi M/s usha publishers (SBB/AC-IV Shalimar Building Delhi-88.

98 5.4 KNITTING TECHNOLOGY L T P 2 - 2 RATIONALE Some of the diploma holder in Textile Technology may find placement in knitting industry, so the basic operation in knitting are including in this subject. DETAILED CONTENTS Sr. No. 1. Theory Comparison between knitted and woven fabrics, warp and weft knitting. Types of knitting needles, their knitting cycle, advantages and disadvantages of each, (8hrs) Weft knitting; Types of stitches: Knit, tuck, float, Lay. Their representation, effects, methods of formation and end uses. (4 hrs) Weft knit structures: Plain, Rib, Interlock and Purl, their characteristics, representation, derivatives, end uses with knitting cycles of each. (8 hrs) Fabric defect in weft knitting, cover factor/tightness factor, Robbing back, calculations pertaining to production. Methods of production of hose, half-hose. (4 hrs) Wrap Knitting: Introduction to under lap and over lap, closed lap and open lap. Brief description of Tricot and Raschel machines and fabrics lapping movement of warp knitting (8 hrs) Practical To study different needles and their cycles. Yarn parameters for hosiery yarn. To make knit, tuck and float stitches

2.

3.

To study passage of yarn through flat bed and circular weft knitting machining.

4.

To study fabric defects on the machine knitting designs.

5.

To study lapping movement of warp knits: Preparation of warp knit samples.

NOTE Student may be asked to do the work on weft knitting machines and construct the lapping movement of warp knits.

99

RECOMMENDED BOOKS 1. 2. 3. Knitting technologies by D.B. Ajganokar Knitting technology by Mark Spancer Textile Mathematics Vol III by J.E. Booth

100 5.5 COMPUTER APPLICATIONS IN TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY L T P - - 4 RATIONALE Students should be capable to run and implement various application softwares used in the designing and operating textile machines. Since some highly priced machines cannot be purchased, students should be taken to mills where these machines are working e.g. CAM etc. DETAILED CONTENTS 1. Idea about DOS, windows, scanners, printers, plotters. computers 2. Review of basics in

Operating computers in DOS as well as Windows bond systems Operating/working on any textile based software such as Autotex, Textronics, Wonder Weave, Scot Weave.

Introduction to various design softwares and various computer-aidedmanufacturing processes Operating CAD-Computer Aided Design in preparing CARDS Practical application of computer networks

3. 4. NOTE 1. 2.

Introduction to computer networking, its uses and applications in Textile Technology machines Introduction to CAM-Computer Aided Manufacturing through visit to mills where such machines are in use.

Time should be devoted according to depth of the individual software Students should be taken to those mills where such machines are operative and they should be shown the working of these machines (Automated Machines in Mills).

101 ENTREPRENEURIAL AWARENESS CAMP This is to be organized at a stretch for two to three days during second year. Lectures will be delivered on the following broad topics. There will be no examination for this subject 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Who is an entrepreneur? Need for entrepreneurship, entrepreneurial career and wage employment Scenario of development of small scale industries in India Entrepreneurial history in India, Indian values and entrepreneurship Assistance from District Industries Centres, Commercial Banks. State Financial Corporations, Small industries Service Institutes, Research and Development Laboratories and other financial and development corporations Considerations for product selection Opportunities for business, service and industrial ventures Learning from Indian experiences in entrepreneurship (Interaction with successful entrepreneurs) Legal aspects of small business Managerial aspects of small business

6. 7. 8. 9. 10.