I N ST R U C TION BOOK

r
Contents Page

Foreword Fssetial Parts of Machine Fundamentolsof Machine Operation Important Points to Remember Starting the Machine Knee Control Foot Control Straight Stitch Sewing Zigzag Sewing Setting Machine for Automatic Embroidery Winding the Bobbin Removing the Bobbin Case Inserting a Full Bobbin into Bobbin Case Inserting the Bobbin Case Recommended Needle and Thread Sizes Important Facts about Needles Changing the Needle Upper Threading Operating the Automatic Needle Threader Drawing Up the Bobbin Thread Correct Tension Regulation Regulating Thread Tension Stitch Length Regulation Dropping the Machine Feed Changing the Sewing Foot The Darning Foot Core and Maintenance Sewlight Facts Trouble Shooting 2 4 5 6 7 7 8 9 10 12 14 14 15 16 17 17 18 20 21 22 23 24 24 25 25 26 28 29
.

Zipper Insertion Edge Stitching Quitting Flat Felled Seams Rolled Hems Hemming Overcasting Edges Butt Sea ining Attaching Lace Inserting Lace Inserting Patches Single-Needle Cording Shirring Applique Work Openwork Embroidery Scalloping Scrollwork Imitation Henistitching Blindstitctiing Automatic Blindstitching Sewing Buttonholes Button Sewing Darning Monogram Embroidery Sewing Monograms Cording Two-Needle Decorative Sewing. Three-Needle Decorative Sewing

Page 32 32 32 33 34 34 35 35 36 36 37 38 38 39 40 41 41 42 43 43 44 46 47 49 49 50 52 53

Automatic 23 O26O
INSTRU CTIONS
FOREWORD

Your dream has come true!

You are now the proud ow ner of a PFAF F 230-260 Automatic the This instruction sewing machi book wilt help ne with unl imited possib you understand for you. ilities. the machine and give you valuable tips to make sew ing more tun Even if you are an experienced seamstress, you Automatic Sew will find this ing. book a valuab le guide to easy sewing Follow these PFAFF simple instructio ns and fam You will find iliarize yourse sewing excitin lf with the g on your exclusive aut easy-to-operate omatic Featur PFAFF Autom es of your If you have any atic. machine. sewing problems , please con tact your PfaIf dealer. He wil l be glad to help you at any time.

Plait Inte rnational Corporation New York, N.Y.

-;.-

7 17

8 15

-10

8 7079 1 lucid lakeup levy, 9 10 kight switch Drop feed control Needle plate Tronsverse rotary sewing hoot, Bed slide Needle 1 o control cover (A) Einhi oidery pallet n length lever Stitch cog). for wo, d and reverse fever 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

Automatic needle threader Upper tension Sewliglrl Sewhmgf,h swing-out lever Stifch width control (Dl Mofor Needle position fever (Cf

(El
1) 12 13 14 15

Oct13
Buttonhole slide lever Bobbin winder Sb pm olin,, knob SIb I length slop cant, oh

*
-

32

R 7O8

23 ColIop,,ie spooi pvs Top rovvr 27 ever

sd sc

24 28 eve, 29

25 Face cove, Needle 6, Coder

26

cv,

30 31 32 33

Presser how 0 Sew,,, foot Sewvq loot

receptacle Bc,lo,,c Wleef

Needle set Bed plole Motor Plg

Screw

R7098

/ltadi,;c Qpitioii

Make
sure stop motion knob b is tightened be fore you begin sewing (clockwise as indicated by white arrow)

@) Whenever you have to turn the balance wheel a,

turn it toward you (counter-clockwise as shown by black arrow).

ii Never run a threaded machine

unless you have fabric under the presser foot.

Raise presser bar lever c and place bath threads

under and behind the sewing loot. Slide ma terial under needle, lower sewing loot and youre ready to sew.

R 7074

R 6808

i%spntaiie 3 7tiiiLc to

Woman sewing by hand will norinally draw one stitch light before making another. On a sewing ma

chine, this is done automatically by fake-up tever d.

Therefore, always turn the balance wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its highest position before you begin and after you have completed a seam. Failure to observe tlsis rule may

The machine will feed the material under the sewing loot automatically. Alt you have to do is guide the work. Never try to hasten feeding by pushing or pulling the fabric while stitching because the needle may bend or break.

cause the thread to tangle under the needle plate or slip out of Itse needle eye. 5
R6809

/4ltuhmne

When your PFAFF Automatic is delivered to

your home, it is ready for sewing.

The machine is driven by an electric motor which requires no attendance, except that

the brushes should be replaced alter about

400 hours of service.

When you replace the brushes, also check

whether the driving

belt has the correct

tension. If not, adEust the belt idler.

The sewing speed is regulated either by

knee or foot control.

Before you connect the plug with the electric outlet, make sure
that the voltage indicated on the motor name plate is within the

tension range marked on the electric meter. 6

R 7130

Connect electric cords as shown in illustration Knee Control

Press the right knee light ly against tile knee controt lever. Tlse harder you press, tile foster the ma chine will run.

Foot Control
Place the foot control under the cabinet within easy reach of your loot. Rest the right toot on tlse speed control and press. The harder you press, the faster the machine will

Push plug 1 into three-pin receptacle 2, and plug 3 at other end of cord into wall outlet 4. The foot control cord is permanently connect ed with plug I.

ft mocisme is fitted with knee control, also connect plug of cord 5 wilts outlet at opposite end of motor.

run. 7
R1132

5ta1fJht $tUt/ $ivi,ij

4

Set: Dial B O Control D

Leves E 0 Lever C

Centered

Lever f regulates the stitch length and controls forward and reverse sewing. (Lever should be in vertical position be fore setting stitch length). Control e stops stitch on length desired.

56629

Forward Sewing

Set e on number that indicates stitch length you want (1 S; the higher the number, the longer the stitch). Turn f right as far as it will go.

Reverse Sewing

Turn I cIt as tar as it will go. (The reverse stitches will be the some length as lorward 8
R 7066

slit c he s,

R 7071

i12aG Qivus:7
Set: Dial B--U Lever EO Turn control D left to desired stitch width (indicated by numbers 1 to 6; the higher the number, the wider the stitch). Do not move C or D while needle is in fabric.

V I
lengthens zigzag

Lever I

stitches or packs them more

.-

Lever C changes needle position from left to right. Thus the stitchin g can be moved irons A tile center to the left or right oh the needle plate slot.

closely together. To form the satin stitch gradually de

crease stitch length almost

to 0 until you get tile de sired effect.

Poio:nr z indicates

To change needle position, press lever C down and move into: No Ii 1 The needle is at the ectreine left of the needle plate slot is straigh t sewing. end swings to the right in zigzag stitching. NotCh 2 The needle is centered in tie needle plate slot in stroight sewing , and swings bolts ways in zigzag stitching. Not ci: 3 The needle is at the eirtrenie right of the needle plate slot in straigh t sewing, ond swings to tie left In
zigzag stitching
tie position of the needle on the lop scale.

R 6631

4iz $ tftii:j /4lf4ChillQ 1 /ii(oiuaiic I6I!t(

Set: Swing back the cover on control A. Your embroidery design dial shows all the pri mary designs you can make with the Automatic. Pick your design and turn the dial sa it points to that design. The numbers in the slot indicate the machine dial settings which will give you the design you have chosen. 4 For example: Turn A (clockwise) so 3 is opposite n. Lever E3

BS C D

Turn E (clockwise) so 5 is at top.

Set stikh length lever f (page 8) so stitches are closely packed.

It embroidery design dial shows no symbol for lever C or control D,

disrcgcirct them.

For suc.Ii clesig us C u nd D will operate u utomatically. Do not touch

them. 10
R7072

If number 1, 2 or 3 appears in box C, move lever C to the ap propriate slot An arrowi or 0

cIJC/2
123

DL

in box D indicates that control D should be turned to the right as far as ii will go without applying force. .4

Il a 2 appears in box D, you may set the dial exactly at 2; or, it you want a narrower design, you may set it somew hat lower, soy between 1 and 2. Pattern is not clear, if D is set above 2. Mach(ne Setting: A 3, B 4, C2

R 7095

A A
A
LeverEat:

A Big Advantage of the PFAFF Automati c Each of the primary designs pictured on the embroidery design dial can be sewn in diflerent lengths. Therefore you can vary the ap pea rance ol the pattern without cha nging the stitch length. The pattern length is controlled by lever E, vhich has seven gradations tour numbered (1,3, 5 and 7) and three unnumbered. Maximum pattern length is obtained by setting lever E on 7, and minimum length by setting it on 1. \Vhen it is set on 0, the Automatic mechanism is disengaged. 11

A
1 3 5 7

/Oiii?in
Hold balance wheel a and turn stop motion knob b all the way to the left (counter-clockwise). Place spool of thread on right-hand spool pin. The bobbin thread should always be the same size as that used on the spool, or a little Ii n e r. Pull thread froni spoof and lead it clockwise around thread retainer 9, crossing lhe thread.

2
R 5704

R7101

_..___.--,_

r.

Pull it through thread guide h.

0
Pass end ol thread through slot in bobbin, from in side. Set bobbin on bobbin winder spindle so that key at base of spindle enters slot in bobbin. Press in lever Hold end of thread and slowly start machine. Having wound a few turns, break off end ol thread and continue winding at a laster pace. Bobbin winder will stop automatically when bobbin is full. If you dont want a lull bobbin, press out lever i when sullicient amount of thread has been wound.

R7100

You may continue sewing while you are winding bobbin wIthout disconnecting balance wheel.

R 7102

7
R 7067

R 7097

I.

iiiuij a
in left hand so that the thread As shown in illustration 1. hold bobbin and insert bobbin into bobbin end falls from the top down toward you, case. case and puff the thread Hold the bobbin firmly in the bobbin
into

it 1 7
1n 66 t5 3 ? i,,t,

73,661,, Ca.c

the

case slot.

()
from the bobbin case.

until it emerges from the open Pull the thread under the tension spring three inches of thread hanging ing cit the end of the spring. Leave about that the bobbin cannot fall out. Hold the case by its open latch, so
V
5 5867

j
(ID
R 5869

Jj
ri 1
R 5882
.,

\
I,.

2Z
t/? tO(h(ii
point and open bed slide

A Raise needle to its highest

j,

so you can see sewing hook. left hand and lilt Reach under the machine with your out bobbin case with latch k with your forefinger. Pull release latch k, bobbin by holding the latch. When you

the empty bobbin drops out.

---fl

rr r

Cii

It is best to tilt machine back when inserting bobbin case the first After you have become time. more practiced, you will manage without it. Move bed slide tilting j all the woy to the left so you con see the hook. Make sure the needle is still at its highest point. With the thumb and foref ol left hand lift latch inger k and turn bobbin case until slot at end of latch points up. Then place it on center stud I of hook,

R 5870 R 5868

In replacing the bob bin case, it is best to hold the loose A end of thread so that it wilt not get jammed between bobbin case and hook . Release latch k and press against bobbin case until you hear it sna p into place. An improperly inser ted bobbin case wilt cause needle breakage. 15

7Zec,%sIn?I:33
-

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Types of Fabrics

Mercerized CoHen Silk

Needle -Size

an

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--

Fine Fabrics e, such as georgetle, chi1loi,bolist voile, own, silk. is dependent The appearance ot the finished seam een needle, thread on the correct refalionship belw er thread sizes and and fabric. Select the prop 80 needles from this chart.

80 to 100

0 to 000 twist

60 or 70

Lightweight Fabrics ns, such as dress silks md cotto sheer, woolens, shirlmg, draperies. 70 to 80 A & B twist

Medium such as madras, silks and B & C twist 90

-

Fabrics lightweight woolens, muslin, biocades, heavy royon, gabardine. 50 to 70 than the needle thread.

used in the needle The same size threads should be rienced seamstresses and on the bobbin, Some expe in thread. How prefer a somewhat thinner bobb r should be thicker ever, the bobbin thread neve

Heavy Fabrics uroy, such os coating, denim, cord slipcover lobrics, bed tickings, lightweight canvas. 40 to 50
C & 0 twist 100

Very Heavy Fabrics such as heavy Ockings. canvas, overcooting. sailcloth, up. holster y 24 to 40 E twist Deterinned by weiglil ol tobric 40 to 50

90 to 110

Synthetics, Rayon, Acetate including nylon. orion. dacron, plastics, etc.

Deletmised by lhieod size 60 lo 80

16

R 6798

.ii:i).ta,i( ad.c a /\Qct.c iuit 6

On P FAF F Automatic sewing machines, System 130 R. flats hank needles are used for all ord inary sewing and embroidery work. system is stamped The needle on the bed slide. Ge nuine Plaff needtes, ore available from System 130, every PfaIf dealer, Bent or blunt needle not be used. s should
I

r:.
IL

iI
:

Chaitjiii
Bring needle bar to its highest point and lower sewing foot. Loosen needle set screw o half a tur rs E( and pull old needle out of need le clomp. Insert new needle into open ing of needle clomp and push it up as tar as it will go. Make sure that the flat side of shank faces toward you. Tighte toward the back an n needle set screw d long groove o. The illustration (le ft) shows you how the needle clamp presses against the works. The needle tapered needle set screw positioning roller of the needle shan which presses again k and holds the ne st the flat side edle in place. 17

rn t h)iI:fJ
I

Place thread on spool pin 4 and lead thread end through holes
i t

in thread guides 2 cind 3 and through both thread retainer (see itlustration opposite).

openings

Pull thread between any twa of the tension discs 5, (Fig. I) and

tead it clockwise (Fig. II) until it snaps into the square notch in

the tension cup (Arrow, Fig. Ill). The thread passes underneath

the thread check spring which holds it down permanently.

If

Bring take-up lever 7 as high as it will go and pass thread from

right to left throug l one of the holes at its end. Pull thread into

slots at left of thread guides 8 and 9, and then into the slot at

left of needle clamp 10.

Then thread needle, front to back. PFAF Fs Automatic needle

threader will do this br you easily and quickly.

III

18

___,..____w,

R 7081

19

Increase the bobbin tension sligh tly for cording. Plait recomme nds you ill) your cording so it keeps its shap e in the laundry. Filler cord thick ness depends on cording size you want. To sew filled cording use the two cord ing plates with cord ducts.

Only very narrow tucks ore mad e without filler cord. Machine Setting: E 0 B 0 C 2 D 0
.-.

Additional Information on Cor ding Ordinary cording in medium-heav y fabric is made with cording foot No. 41319 and cording plate No. 41842. For thicker cording use loot No. 41 318 with cording plate No. 105996.

Threadug Diagram for Two Needtes Your upper leusion has a third disc so threads o,e separated as hey ore threaded Ihroogh the tension.

Cording loot No. 41 641 and plate No. 41 842 (with center claw, but without cord duct) serve to (flake narro w air tucks in light-weight mate rial. Pin tucks also are made with cording loot No. 41 641, but with out cording plate.

Cording height and width are determined by the distance betw een the two needles, the cord dia meter and the height of the ridge on the cord ing plate. Thread tensions olso influence cording size. For uniform spacing of parallel tucks, attach an odjustable guid e to the cording loot. When spac e between tucks is very narrow, place the preceding seam into one of the groo ves of the fool and use it us a guide. lIds procedure insures uniform and parallel rows of cording.

51

R6945

hoes

Two-Needle Decorative Sewing

All patterns on the narrow-stitch side of the embroidery design dial con be fr sewn with two needles, if the dist ance between the needles does not exceed /64 inch. I his also applies to the eight B 3 des igns shown on the other side of the design dial, if control C is not set beyond 1 /2. The abo ve patterns can be sewn without changing mac hine parts. If any of the other designs are sewn with two needles, the needle plate, machine feed and sewi ng foot must be changed. Your Pfaff dealer will do this for you at extra cost. These parts have wider slots to allow for movement of both needles.

R7178

R 5966

Two-needle designs are par ticularly attractive when sewn with different color threads.

The sewing abilities of your PFAFF Automatic are practically unlimited. Interesting effects can be obt ained by combining var ious designs, embroider incJ colored ribbons. glam orizing a garment with bce or rick-rack attached with a line of Automatic stitches and welt, you probably can think of many articles which would take on new life with a touc h of embroidery. Your P FAF F Automatic wilt help you solve decorative pro blems and wilt stimulate your creative fancy.

52

I. 57137

Three-Needle Decorative Sewing -4 To do sewing, must three-needle you buy spool holder 153137 which slips over the regular spool pins (see illustration) and have your Plall dealer convert your ma No. about is led to the needle with the sccond thread. chine to sew a stitch width ol /a inch. The third thread

converted,

Alter your machine has been you can sew all Aulomitic Embroidery

5 7175

-k

-\,

potterns on the narrow-design side of the embroidery dial with three needles.

Interesting design effects ore easy to make b combining Automatic patterns. Now yoi can make flower petals, and other int icate designs. The mo e familiar you are with your machine the more inspired you will be toward creative sewing.

R7176

53

Q)atiitq
the fover sole 4 Before you begin, make sure that fhe needfc is at its highest position when Now fower of the ascending fake-up fever d is in line with the bottom edge of the top cover.

tIu /( nhIu?tic /\Jc?t2 l/17Qaie

the sewing toot and

0
on Hofd hread foosely and lead from left around pin q behind hook of prong w needle threader. Slowly lower fever p part way until prong w reverses and pulls thread through the eye.

prong With your left hand push ttsreader engaging lever p up until ttsreader penetrotes needle eye. Keep fever p in this position.

6 7068

0
551089

Jerk lever p up slightly so the thread loop wilt tall oil the prong Release lever p. Pull thread through needle eye.

6 7069

2
55 7088

R 7087

(4

When you hove hod sufficient needle threading practice, you

moy shorten the procedure as follows:

Push lever p up. Piace threQd behind hook of prong w so that itsend is about /2 inch to the right of the prong. Slowly lower lever p. Prong w now pulls end of the thread instead of the loop

through needle eye.

Since take-up lever d is not at its highest point when you thread

the needle, pull about four inches of thread through the needle

eye before you begin sewing.

77 R 5888

w
awinO 7

1 t4
1n 66 t 73

A Hold needle thread lightly in your left hand. Turn balance wheel toward you until the needle moves down and upagain and toke-upteverreaches its highest position. Lightly pull needle thread to draw bobbin thread up through needle plate slot. Place both threads back under sewing foot before you put fabric into machine.

21

I
.!/

t:.

4
,,

Cd2Qd (7Q;Jjg qi1atIoii

is correct, Balanced tensions are essential for sewing. If your tension you will have perfect seams as sketched (Ill) below.
Sketch I

.L;
The threads interlock on the underside of the fabric. Upper tension too loose or lower tension too tight.

Ca use : Sketch II Cause: The threads interlock on the surlace of the fabric. Upper tension too tight or lower tension too loose.

- -.
-

R 7070

To check whether he tensions are correctly balanced, luke a closely woven piece of fabric and sew a mw straight and zig zncj If the siroiglit stitches ore tightly

seants.

drawn in on both sides of the fabric (see scorn sketch If), the tensions are cot ed. Tire surest way to double-check this is by

examining a zigzag seam. If the zigzag seam is equally wide on sin face and underside of the Icibric, thot is, it lIre threads are locked
Cr

exactly at tire zigs

rd zags of the seam, tire

tension adjustment is correct.

22

7eIutaaisj l/zea 72nuic,,

Bobbin tension rarely needs adjusting, except for embroidery when it should be a little tighter than for ordinary sewing. Adjustment is nide by the small screw (x) n the bobbin case Turn it tell (( tor looser tension. Turn it right )- for tighter tension.

Determine correct bobbin tension by holding the thread end between thumb and forefinger and letting the bobbin case hang freely. The

tension should be strong enough to keep the bobbin case from being pulled down by its own weight. However, as you jerk your hand slightly, the bobbin case should gradually slide down.
R 6946 R745
1

The final stitch appearance can be regulated by upper tension knob (y) as follows: Turn left 46( for looser tension. Turn right )* for lighter tension.

The upper tension is so designed that alt grades of tension loose to tight can be covered with one complete turn of the tension knob. The numbers on

the tension dial indicate different degrees of tension. The higher the number, the greater the tension. For ordinary sewing, the upper tension should be set between 3 and 5. 23

.:

ejth ,.cnqtI:
7qit1atii:
I

Set fin neutral (vertical position). Set e so its pointer is on the indicator scale number corresponding to the desired stitch length. Turn lever ito the right as far as it will go. To sew backwards, turn lever I toward the lelt as far as it will go. Control e stops stitch length, 1 to 5, on indicator scale. Stitch length may also be regulated by turning e all the way lelt and fin the lorward sewing position as far as it will go. Sew a tew stitches and regulate the stitch length by turning I slowly toward the right. to hold the stitch length in position, turn e until it stops.
5 6705

R 7066

0
ri

tIQ /l/liIiIIQ

The machine Iced is dropped for darning, hoop

embroidery ci nd bution sewing.

:.(

I o lower I ed 1)10w the needle plote, turn drop Iced cciii) ci v clockwise. FaI.c ic. will

cease leeding

1 J
;:

Vrhen coiroi v is lurned to the righi cr5 tar as it will go, ieeding of the fabric esunles

a utoinciticaily when you start sewing

24

4,

5 7085

7 i,, 0 Chaii
die
QIvi1iy 4 oct .1

Lilt both needle and presser bars to their highest positions and turn scrv c to the left. The screw usually can be loosened by haiid Sut it it is too tight, use a screw driver. Tilt the loot sideways and putt it down, Slip on new toot and tighten screw c.

5 6S91 5 6392

I
e 4 iI11n(J C7/ 7
Remove the sewing foot. Attack darning loot from the rear, Hold spring clip b so that it is behind the needle set screw,

57086

4/

and tighten screw c. Attach darning hook ci as illustrated so that when you lower presser bar lever e, the darning foot will stay in position. Remember to lower presser bar lever e so that the upper tension is activated. 25

R 5887

Car?
II1
OFF F egolar

/il1?in(Q1Ia1zc?

Longevity and smooth machine perlorinaisce are dependent ond proper cleaning and oiling. Use Plait sewing machine oil only. Never lubricate inaclsine wills animal or vegetable oils. Remove all lint belore oiling. All moving and rotating parts require regular lubrication. It is advis able to establish a pattern when oiling your machine. Begin under the bed plate. Ilse principal oiling points ore marked by arrows. V

8 6799

1 se raceway its llis sewing hook is the most ins portant ailing point. Put one drop ol oil into the raceway each day you sew. A dry raceway will

cause rapid wear. I sil Forget to oil the bearings and bevel gears LI the short hook sholt (black

arrows).

26

The oiling points in The machine arm can be reached easily by removing the top cover. Oil should be applied sf5aringly.Excessive quantities of oil may soil work onci-criuse machine sluggishness. One or two drops ot oil usually will suffice.

Betore you remove the lop cover, set lever E betwee n 5 and 7. To pull cover up, lilt it back and lilt.

R 7082

R 7077

Oiling points in the machine head 27

Qwt(q/t 7act.c
The 25-watt sewlight is recessed under the machine arm. Lever u swings out the light to illuminate a larger working area. To change the light bulb: Swing lever u up (see arrow) and hold. Push bulb up into socket, turn loll, and pull out.
When inserting the new bulb, be sure to slide bulb pins into bayonet socket

slots. Press bulb in and turn right.

8 7084
-

8 5883

-1

Press this sewlig lit on

buttoH to

switch

and oil

28

1Q 6 7U11 $/tiouiij

I. Machine Skips Stitches Remedy: and be sure thaJ he long Push needle up as far as it will go away from you. groove laces you, and flat part of needle bed slide. The correct needle system is stamped on Insert new needle. Check and correct threading as instructed. Use correct needle and thread.

Cause :

Needle incorrectly inserted.

Wrong needle.

Needle bent.

Machine threaded improperly.

Needle too fine or too thick for the thread.

2. Needle Thread Breaks Re

in

Co use See remedies listed under 1. above.

edy

The above mentioned may cause thread Adjust tensions as instructed. Use good quality threads only. Clean and oil hook raceway.

breakage.

Thrcad tension too tight.

Poor or knotty thread used.

Hook race is jammed with thread or needs

oiling. cloth. Polish needle plate slot with fine emery 29

Burrs or sharp edges on neudle plate slot.

:!

3. Needle Breaks

Cause: Replace needle at once to prevent further damage. Use correct needle ond thread sizes. Dont lorce the feeding motion. Guide the material lightly.

Remedy:

Bent needle strikes point at sewing hook.

Needle too thin or thread too heavy.

Fabric pulls needle so it bends and strikes

needle plate. Push bobbin case until you hear it snap into place.

Bobbin case inserted incorrectly.

4. Faulty Stitch Formation Remedy Adjust tensions as instructed. Use only first-rate thread

Cause:

Improper tension.

Thread too heavy, knotty or hard. fabric.

the correct size for the needle and

Bobbin unevenly wound.

Dont run thread over finger when winding the bobbin, but lead gh 1 it around tension stud on top cover and thro thread guide Ii. Release upper tension by setting it on 0 and remove thread.

Pieces of thread butween tension discs.

5. Machine Feeds Improperly

Cause:

Remedy: Hove your PloIf dealer make the necessary adjust macnt.

Feed dog set too low and does not rise up

enough above needle plate level. 30

Accumulations of lint packed between feed teeth.

Take off needle plate and remove Jint with a tift brush.

6. Machine Works Heavily Remedy: Loosen or tighten motor belt by adjusting idler.

Cause:

Motor belt is loose and slips, or has shrunk and couses excessive pressure on bearings. Clean and oil hook raceway.

Hook raceway forks oil or is obstructed by

pieces ol thread. Use only Plait sewing machine oil

Mechanism clogged by inferior oil. Stop bobbin winder.

never salad oil or glycerine.

Bobbin winder working while sewing. (When a bobbin is not being tilled) Unwind and remove thread.

Snarled thread between balance wheel and

bushing.

Thread Jamming
iii

If thread lams

the sewing hook mechanism arid blocks it, proceed as follows:

The thread will come out more easily if you put a few drops of oil or cleaning fluid into the hook raceway. Tighten the slop motion knob. Move use balance wheel away from you.

Take the end of the thread and pull it out while rocking the balance wheel. If thread is still jammed, call your Pfaff dealer for help. Thread jamming can be avoided by following the instructions on pages 31
(

and 5.

Zipper Insertion

Edge

Stitching

Machine Setting: C2 E0 D 0 to 4 (optional) B 0 Stitcher No. 41 350. Edge Sew parallel rows of straight or zigzag stitches at various distances from the fabric edge by using ad Iustabfe seam guide No. 53077 and the edge stitcher (without quilting gauge). Tire seam guide is fastened to the machine bed with the tlruinb
screw.

Machine Setting: c3 E0 0 0 B 0 Foot No 41 350 Zipper Pin or baste closed zipper on fabric. Position of zipper depends on wlsetlser or not you want the edge of tire fabric to aver lap tire zipper. Run a straight seanr close to left edge of zipper, stitch across lower end and up the other side in one continuous operation. Use right edge of foot as a guide. Follow directiorrs in your zipper V package.
R 7153

Quilt

rig

Machine Setting: C2 E0 D Oar 2(optional) BU r No. 41 350. Edge Stitche Used with tire quilting gauge sews parallel rows of stitching over the errtire surface ol tire labric. Always guide the gouge finger along tIre preceding row of stitches. Attractive tea cosies, slippers, seat pads, and covers can be quilted.
C 7104

32

R5905

Flat Felled Seams

Machine Setting:

E
8 0 D

0 or 2 (optional) are used to durably oin two pieces of fabric. They are made Flat idled seams in two operations. stitches are Flat felled seams usually are straight stitched. Narrow zigzag used for felting ois elasticized fabrics onfy First Seam 4 protruding loy pieces together wrong sides facing up with the bottom piece into felling loot, us illustrated, so that the bottons inch. Feed boils pieces

R iiii

fabric is bIded over edge of top piece and stitched down. Make sure allowance is not folded twice. that protruding sea as

Second Scans

Open the two pieces, place them under the needle right side up, insert seam tlsat ridge into felling toot opening, and stitch down to tIle cii. Make sure but sot beyond it. second seam is placed close to the edge

The felling loot has a needle slot, rather thu n a needle hole, to pernsit zigzag

felling. 33
R7154

----.

.---.

R5912
-

41248

46261

J
Hemming

Rolled Hems Machine Setting: F 0 B-0

Machine Setting: E-O B

C2 D The hemmer foot is indispensa He if you want to sew a uniform hem. You can hem with straight or zigzag stitches, depending on the type of fabric yoi 1 to 4 (optional) D 0 or 2 to 4 (optional)

C-2

Rolled hems are used to finish sheer or deli cate fabrics. lou o smooth, unpuckered hem, ease thread tension slightly and set D on 1 to 3. To 11cm tricot fabrics increase the tension, and use the widest zigzag stitch so are using. Clip off the corner of itie fabric to facilitate insertion info fise hemmer foot. Feed fabric so that the raw edge is in fine with the left edge of the hemmer loot opening. If you feed less, the fabric wilt not be folded twice and the raw edge will show. Avoid ugly ends by stowing down feeding. Press the fabric against tile needle plate on tile left side of the foot before you come to the end of tile hem.

the hsen has a rolled shell effect.

34

R5915

Overcasting Edges Machine Selling:

E 0

C-2 D-4

Overcasting prevents frayed edges. Sew edge with the needle taking one stitch info the fabric and the other over us edge. You may overcast edges
4

alter fabric is cut and before the pieces are joined.

S 769

5 5925
tO89

Buff Seaming

Jr I.
.J

Machine Setting; E B0 D3or4(opfional) 2

0 C

Two similar pieces of fabric which do not ravel easily may be butted to-

get her and joined with zigzag stitches. V/urn bed sheets may be mended this

way. Cut out worn center strip. Place the selvaged edges of the remaining

pieces of sheet undcr the sewing foot so tat the abutted edges are centered

under the needle. Join them with close, wide zigzag stitches. Hem raw edges

of sheets

35

-,-- . - .

,,.-,

r._
-

S..--.
.

Attaching Lace
E0

Machine Settiny: 80 C2 D1 1o3

-

You can attach lace edging in one simple oper ation. Overlap lace on raw edge. Sew to fabric with norrow zigzag stitches, taking one stitch into lace onct fabric and the other into lace only.
-

R 7177

R 7170

O98

Inserting Lace
MachineSetting: E0 B0 C2 Dlto3

into fabric alone and one into the face. Caretully trim excess fabric underneath.

Pin or baste lace on fabric. Sew togethe r with needle taking one stitch

36

..--

iifi
Inserting Patches Machine Setting: E

17

0 D
-

C-2 3 to 4

B -.0 may also be used Large holes can be patched quickly. The following method the rest of the tabric. for tricot fabrics. Cut patch so that its grain will match with zigzag stitch of Place the patch over the damaged area. Sew it down medium length.
-

-1

L tii
Il

P 7156

I:
$

over and trim close For additional strength stitch over comm s twice. Turn

to sea ms.

:-;

1
37
P 7157

:1

R 7162
6r2I

Single-Needle Cording
F)., /_ I I,

Shirring

Machine Setting:

0
D-2
-

C-2

C-2

B o
.

Machine Setting: E 0 80 2 to 2fz Stitch Length 2 to 4 Ease Upper Tension D

Set stitch length bet een 0 and I Trace pattern on fabric and place a filler thread under tire groove in the sole ol the cordi rig foot. Follow the crttern and Follow above directions for slurring bat place filler thread under rotlrer than on top of the fabric. Fabric and filler thread both are guided in the groove of the foot. Width of zigzag depends on tire thickness of the fitfer
R 7159

hold the filler thread fig fitly.

thread used. When you have finished the zigzag seam, slide material along the filter thread to distribute fullness. Finish tire shirring with a tine of straight stitch
i ng.

I-.

Leave the filler thread in tire slurring or pull it out as you straight.stilch, depending on tire stress to which shirring wilt be exposed.

38
.

R 7152

46!?!

Applique Work

Machine Settii:
E 0 C

60 /2to3 t D-1

6 7155 6 7429

Pin or baste applique on fabric and overcast edges. Appliques also can be attached with a satin stitch
or any embroidery design.

39

R7166

Openwork Embroidery Machine Setting: F 0

C-2 D

8-0 ork embroidery. Lets There are hundreds of patterns excellent for openw sew over all traced fines embroider the 25-square box illustrated. First, t-stitch lines with a twice using short straight stitches. Then sew over straigh rows of satin stitching are medium-wide satin stitch. Make sure that your even so the corners of your squares look neat.

0 and
272

R 7179

I,

I When you finish sewing, cut out every other square. To make an attractive idery design modern design, outline flowers or free forms with an embro instead of satin sfitchi rig.

40

S 6I2I

i
Scalloping E

Scroliwork
B 3

1
-

7 (optional) D2 into Draw designs on fabric. Clamp work ing the embroidery hoop. As you are lollow s, scroflwork outline with wide satin stitche the move hoop right, then felt, alternating
rhythm and the direction of your movements.

Machine Setting: BU D2to4

F 0

Machine Setting:
A5 your Scaltoping con be done in o iffy on can be P FAF F 230 Automatic. Scalloped edges numerous used effectively as trimming on articles. ing The illustrations left show how scallop how adds sparkle to a childs collar. Heres on a to do it. First, trace collar pattern Set machine (shown doubted piece of lobric. foot above), place fabric under sewing The and guide needle along traced line s are produced automati scallop cally. You may vary the length of the scallops by changing the setting of lever E (see sketch). When you have fleished, trim excess fabric
along scalloped edge.

An exciting note may be added by using y variegated thread.

5 7168

41

oDes

0v

-en

I mi a Uon Hemstilchi rig C 2 Maclone Setting: E 0 8-0 Stitch Length: 1_1/2 Increase Tensions s, dresses, and so forth, utilul heinslitching effects on ho ndkercltiels, blouse Boa stores at with Plaits System 30 (wing) needle available at Ptafl can be made are well y woven fabrics, such as batiste, argandy. georgette, etc., extra cost. Lousel while woolly lobrics are not recommended because needle suited to hemslilching has a slightly thicker shank, penetrations close up. Since the heinstitcfiiny needle insertion. The henmstitchirig the needle set screw must be turned out far enough for r, cannot be threaded with the Automatic needle threade needle (
ilesnnstnltinnnng is nn.n y snnni pie (see siselci,).

I
2
uncsctninnc

Sew first row. Slop ninenn needle Is in fabric cii line rsgiil. tn Inrnn lnbrrc in lIne direction, ol arrow, and lower fool again. cr11 sewisng

3 I.
parallel to OrsI row so final needle peineiroles Sew second nr,nn as slnow,s ii, sketch, gun limp rrraieriol line right. moles of fnrevnons zngzog stitches cnn it descends on needle nnrg, atterncsleiy leave needle inn fabric online fell and Ii you ore srncn nip cmnore than two nines of l,cnnsslnlcin proceed as di, ected above right of lv mini p poinntn. pneol labs Ic ems needle, and

8 7138

Hensstitcliing Hemstitching is successful on linen and twilled lab, cs. For this type of work use an ordinary needle. Draw several threads out ol the fabric. Set machine for a medium-wide zigzag stitch and sew along both edges of the strip, making sure that zigs and zags in both rows are exactly opposite each other. Set stitch length according to thread bar width you desire. Draw threads Irom the edge until your lringe is the length you want. Zigzag along and you will hove picot this line edging.

87173

42

8 7140

-Z:

R 7139
-

1
Machine Setting: E 0 B 0 C 3 Stitch Length:

Btiridslitching D ito 2 Maximnuns

U
2

Hemming dresses and skirts by hand is a laborious task. You con do it easily an yourThlaft on medium and heavy fabrics. Use blindstitch guide No. 46669, which you can buy at your Pfa(f store. Use it with zigzag loot Na. 44088 and attach it so that its vertical flange goes through the sew ing toot slot. Use a No. 70 needle, a loose upper tension and thin thread in the needle.
Next follow this procedure: Turn fabric wrong side up. On selvage edge or if bias seam binding is used an edge of hem, told material once (Fig. 1). On unselvaged fabric. told twice (Fig. 2). ft is advisable to pin or baste hem. Guide work evenly, holding tap hem edge against the vertical flange of the blindstitch guide. Set D so that needle tates felt stitch exactly in tfme folded edge and the rigId stitch over the hem edge. Wfmen hem is finished, stitches will not be visible on top side.

4088

r
Autoriici tic Bi ,idstitchi rig Used ui draperies or curtains Mactune Setfing : E

be visible on the right side al sheer and hI ray fabrics. I hei etore these Ia brics should be blindstitched with the Automatic so a number of narrow and one wide zigzag stitch are sewn at rag ula r intervals. Use thread that matches fabric and fold the bern as illustrated. Feed fold against left inside edge of foot so that narrow zigzag stitches are made on hem edge and wide stitches pierce fold.

C 1 Stitch Length: 1/22 Bliiidslilcliiiig is used for med urn and heavy fabrics and would

1 6

Bulky work is placed in machine with bulk ol material to the left of lire needle. Set lever C on 3,
/3 R7151

6064

Sewing Buttonholes E 0 B 0 C

Machine Setting:

you are making button The setting of control 0 is changed several times while us setting, turn lever F holes. So you can easily return the control to its previo be caught in two clockwise, as illustrated. Put lever C in notch 1, so D will for sewing sides, notches of the buttonhole slide, one position at 1/2 This setting corresponds to the size of and the other at 3 for bartacking. further, the stops ordinary lingerie buttonholes. When fever F is moved up parallels and for the stitch width sutting change accordingly, and both the grow wider. bars of the buttonhole

Use buttonhole toot No. 51016 and set slide on buttonhole gauge to buttonhole length de sired. If you prefer more prominent buttonholes, pull a fitter cord through the hole in left toe
R 6088

of loot. To gel the correct stitch soft or length, sew on a piece of scrap material. In making buttonholes in tissue paper loosely woven fabrics, it is advantageous to place a piece of fabrics, under the material. To strengthen buttonholes in tricot and knit insert a piece of firmly woven cotton material between the fabric layers.
R 7174

44

Buttonhoes

0
Set D at 1 /s, C at 1 satin stitch.
,

stitch length fever f on

1D
Attach foot No. 51 016 and adjust slide indi cator on buttonhole gauge to length of button hole desired. Insert fitter cord through foot. Lift foot, turn fabric clockwise, using needle as a pivot. Lower foot, take one stitch to the left, puff filter cord taut and lay it parallel to completed fine of stitching. Switch D to 3. Make 46 bartack stitches. Raise needle.
tO1h/2.

a,

0 0

U,

a)

ChangeD

Trim both ends of filler cord at end of first stitch row. Sew second row and stop about 46 stitches from end ol first row, leaving

needle up.

Turn D to 3, and drop machine feed. Make second tack, as instructed above.

Switch D back to 0 and make two or three fastening stitches.

Trim the sewing threads. Open the buttonhole with your seam ripper. Be careful not to injure the bartacks.

Raise feed.

Buttonhole can also be made without a filler cord. 45

ii

Z6?2O

Button Sewing Machine Setting: BO

E D Drop Machin Feed 3 or 4

o
C-3

Piaff. Make Dont be afraid to sew on buttons, hooks, eyes or r ngs with your t poi I. Place the button under sure the thread take-up lever is at its highes hole when the button sewing foot. Align button so needle will enter right D is at 0,

R 7160

II,, 1

1,

d over the left Then turn D to the left, usually to 4, until needle is centere button hole. Sew as many zigzag stitches as you think iecessary to fasten le buttons, lift foot, reposition button and securely. When sewing on four-ho repeat the above process, stitching through the seond pair of holes. one of the Now set D on 0 and make two or three tying stitches through d in the same manner. holes. Hooks, eyes, snaps, etc. are attache

46

Darning

5 3{O

Machine Seffing E 0 C 2 00 B0 Di op Machine Feed

Remove presser loot. Use feed cover plate No. 41 251 to increase tautness of fabric in hoop and permit free movement. To fasten the feed cover plate to the machine, slip its finger into the liofe of the needfe plate, as illusf rated. turn, and fasten to posif ion with bed sfide (see illustrafion below).

R 5914

R 5918

Attach do rning foot as instructed on page 25, and suspend presser bar from the rear of the face cover with darning hook No. 461 28. Even though the presser bar is suspended, the presser bar fever must be lowered to activate
-

the tension, or tie uppci thread tension will he released sew without it.

and you cannot

Place fabric into dummy hoop.

1.7

 . -

._-;_

R 5913 R 5916

R 5926

Thin Spots I riangular Tears I riangular tears are best darned by placing the torn section in hoop and sewing across and lengthwise.

Small Holes medium-size soles by trimming ragged edges with the fabric grain. First stitch back and forth across the hole from one side to the other with the machine running at sigh speed. Therm turn tfse fabric at right angles and sew back and lortli over preceding work. This anchors threads in the unworn area around the sole. Dci rn small and

Remember that a stitch in time saves nine and reinforce spots that save worn thin with sho, t stitches made lengthwise and across worn section.

CIa nip fabric into do ning hoop and move it freely under lie needle.

nay be darned with the nornial sewing loot a isd without hoop. Raise machine feed rind use forward

Long rips

and reverse stitch lever.

48

fl
Monogram Embroidery

Machine Setting :

E 60

0 D Drop Machine Feed according to desired width

C-2

Script letters ace best for monogram embroidery without a sewing foot. It requires a little practice. You will soon enjoy creative embroidery once you have learned to move the material at a uniform rate. The fabric should be helt taut in the hoop, the presser bar suspended and the presser bar lever lowered. Lower needle into fabric at the beginning of your design and draw bobbin thread up through ttse fabric. Hold bolts thread ends, and sew over outline, moving hoop slowly and evenly.
S 7165

R 5926

512!

Sewing Monograms

Machine SeWng:
-

E 0 60

C-2 D 2/ to 3

The procedure below is primarily used for block letters. Raise feed and set machine for sotin stitch. Attach cord stitcher and sew outlines of monogram.

svaIch that seams do not overlap at joints ol letters.

Ask your Pfaff dealer to show you the Ornarnentograph, the in geniously designed monogram and ornamental stitch attachment. You wilt marvel at its versatility and delight in the countless creative

possibilities which it adds to your Automatic.

49

Cording This set consists of: 4 double-needle holders for needle distances of i/ 6, /6a, /32 arid /os inch, 3 cording feet, 3 cording plates (2 with cord ducts and 1 with center claw), and 1 package of System 130 8 needles. Additionat parts for heavier cording are available at extra cost. The interchangeable double needle holder is easy to attach. To cord, use sewing toot No. 46121 with a double needle, or Cording Kit No. 50115 available at extra cost.

R 6942

Changing the Needle Holder

A Dring take-up fever to highest point, loos en small setscrew and change need le holders. Tighten set screw securely. The large needle holder screw must always point toward the right. To attac h cording ptate refer to instructions on page 47 for mounting feed cover plate.

Use System 130 8 round-shank needfes in t/ and 5 double-needle /64-inch holders, and System 130 R flat-shank needles in /32 and /66-inch needle holders. 50