Fabric manufacture technology assignment G.

Varshitha (11MCD006)

y LOOM:
A loom is a device that causes interlacement of two sets of threads, namely, warp and weft threads, to form a fabric.

y HISTORY:
 The very first loom - the pit loom.  The handloom  The power loom.  The non automatic type  The semi automatic loom  The automatic loom with essential mechanisms, namely, positive let off device, warp stop mechanism and weft replenishment mechanism.  The shuttle less weaving mechanisms.

The three basic mechanisms in any type of looms are

y Primary (shedding, picking, beat up mechanism) y Secondary (Take up and Let Off) y Auxiliary motions (warp stop, weft stop and warp protector

motions)

Shedding mechanism : Shedding opens the warp sheet into layers. Picking mechanism: The picking causes the shuttle carrying weft to be propelled from one end of the loom to another. Beat-up mechanism: The beat up motion lays the previously laid weft to the fell of the cloth.

What is a Shed: The shedding mechanism separates the warp threads into two layers or divisions to form a tunnel known as shed. The shed provides room for passage of the shuttle. Shedding is automatically performed by the harness on the modern weaving looms.

What is Harness:
Harness is a rectangular frame to which a series of wires, called heddles, are attached.

The weave pattern determines which harness controls which warp yarns, and the number of harnesses used depends on the complexity of the weave. Two common methods of controlling the heddles are dobbies and a Jacquard Head.

Tappet shedding system

y It is a motion of tappets and cams that cause shafts

to be raised to form the shed.

y The mechanical arrangement of this system occupies

so much of space, that it can accommodate a maximum of eight shafts

y This limits to the weaving of plain weaves, simple

twills and simple sateen and satin weaves.

It is required when the number of heald shafts or the number of picks in repeat of pattern or both are beyond the capacity of tappet shedding This is a shedding system capable of having upto 32 shafts. Being able to accommodate up to 32 shafts, a much greater weave repeat and complicated design is possible.

This shedding system has no shafts. A harness consisting of as many cords as there are ends in the warp sheet connects each end individually to the Jacquard machine situated high above the loom. Therefore, each warp can weave independently of all the others. Since each warp yarn can be controlled individually, the greatest weave repeat is possible . This enables most intricate designs to be woven.

The mechanical dobby chain and pegs are used.

y y

Computer controlled shaft selection. Construction is done on computer screen with weave software's.

The construction of shaft sequences is done by building a mechanical dobby chain.

y y

More intuitive way to design fabric. Can visualize the repeated weave design on the screen.

 

A little bit tougher way to design fabric. Unable to visualize the repeated designs in fabric in mind .

Loading and switching of weave patterns can be done in seconds without getting up from the loom.

Loading and switching of weave drafts takes longer time.

Tedious work in designing and producing fabric.

Remove tedious work in designing and producing the fabric.

Selection:
Magnet bar Selector Controller lever

Harness frame motion:

Jack Cam unit Connecting rod Ratchet

Driver: modulator

1. Magnet bar 2. Selector 3. Control lever 4. Ratchet 5. Driver 6. Cam unit 7. Connecting rod 8. jack

y The high performance rotary dobbies of Series 2600 with

electronic controls operate according to the rotary principle .

y According to the pattern, the control elements transmit

electrical signals to magnet bar 1. This moves corresponding selector 2 which- depending on its state on the magnet bar- presses on one of the two control levers 3. If ratchet 4 is underneath the control lever which is pressed down, the ratchet is released.

y When the ratchet is engaged with the driver, it then

couples cam unit 6. By this process the motion of the cam shaft is also transferred to the cam unit. By way of connecting rod and jack the harness frame is then moved.
y If the harness frame is to be moved to one of its end

positions, the control lever 3 which has not been pressed down, pushes ratchet 4 by spring force out of the driver 5, so that the harness frame remains either in upper or lower shed.

y A CAD software is developed to automate the process of peg-plan

generation from a given weave design.

y One inputs and edits a design at the screen and immediately executes it on

the loom
y To overcome the problems in mechanical Dobbies, a design is proposed and

implemented to convert the existing mechanical Dobbies into micro controller based electronic dobby
y These signals are conveyed to the electro-mechanical device, for lifting the

particular shafts
y The computer can also analyze each desired weave to get a Drafting Plan

and Lifting Plan in a matter of seconds. The computer can create a data file covering the Lifting Plan for the microprocessor controller unit.
y Using the software, a textile designer can generate a panorama of derived

weaves, starting with an elementary weave, on the computer monitor.

y The electronic dobby will give you almost unlimited

harness combinations using a computer and software from

y Fiberworks PCW, y Patternland, y Weavemaker, y Weave It, y WeavePoint or Pro Weave, y Scot weave pointcarre(textile design) y Arah Weave

y Dobby, a decorative weave results in small designs or

geometric figures all over the woven fabric. It is done through dobby machines. y This weave uses various yarns from very fine to course and fluffy yarns to produce a variety of fabrics. y The standard dobby weave fabrics are flat and comparitively fine. Some examples are moss crepe, maselesse etc. y The heavy dobby fabrics are used for home furnishings and for heavy apparels.

Patterns
y Dobby cloth weaving patterns

Samples

can include simple stripes, squares or diamonds, as well as more intricate patterns such as swirls, insignias and even animals or flowers. y Some dobby cloth uses a single colour of thread or yarn, while others use several colours to emphasize the design.

Fibers used:
y Fibers used thick or thin, natural or synthetic. y Cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon or even wool or silk. blend of

several fibers like cotton and polyester, or chenille.

Fabric types:
y Pique (polo shirts), y Waffle knits(childrens sleepwear and blankets) and y Bird's-eye fabrics(absorbent cloth for diapers and kitchen

towels). y Moss crepe, brocades and barathe (rayon or silk), and matelasse, (a blend of cotton and polyester, or chenille).

y Companies such as Sierra Trading Post, the Gap and

Zappos offer men's and women's shirts and pants made from dobby cloth y Stores such as J.C. Penney's offer dobby cloth linens like towels and pillowcases. y Many fabric stores sell cotton dobby cloth like pique, waffle knits and bird's-eye fabrics, y Online specialty stores sell more exotic dobby cloth fabrics and styles, such as Japanese, Hawaiian or ethnic fabrics.

y Handbook of technical textiles, By A. Richard

y y y y y y

Horrocks, Subhash C. Anand ,Wood head Publishing,2000. About dobby cloth, By Kate Lee, eHow Contributor, 2010. Dobby loom, Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. www.scribd.com www.abctextile.com www.textileschool.com www.textilefabric.yolasite.com